We spent three days in Rome in March. We visited many iconic sites, but today for the purpose of this blog post I am going to talk about the Colosseum. Rome is one of the most beautiful cities in the world…also one of the most visited. Even during our visit in March it was bursting with tourists. Everyone wants to visit one of the great wonders of the world, the Flavian Amphitheater, more commonly called the Colosseum. And so When in Rome…
Flavian Amphitheater, commonly known as the Colosseum
Seventeen Years
It’s been 17 years since I visited Rome…my one and only visit prior to this. Seventeen years ago travel was very different. At that time carrying the “world wide web” in your pocket was just developing. I did not own a smart phone and was still using a DSLR camera. Words I had never uttered included social media, travel influencer and digital nomad. Businesses like Get Your Guide, Trip Advisor, Airbnb and Yelp were on the cusp of changing the way we travel.
October 2007
March 2024
October 2007
Our visit to Rome in 2007 was for four days at the end of a Mediterranean cruise. We walked up to the ticket booth at the Colosseum and purchased a ticket. Then walked into a line that was about a two hour wait. We didn’t actually wait though. We snuck in…yes we did. When in Rome….
Fast Forward to 2024
Today things are very different. Metal detectors, passport checks – high security is everywhere. To avoid the lines, you pay to do a tour. We booked with Get Your Guide a skip-the-line tour that included the underground area of the Colosseum, something I was very interested in seeing and something we did not see on our first visit. Our tour was about 3 and half hours, included an hour and a half with an archaeologist in the underground as well as a walk through the Roman Forum. This tour cost $100. If you are interested in the magnificent history of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, seeing the underground with an archaeologist is a must. It was very much worth the additional cost. By the way, a single entry with out a tour guide is $45. So the tour is twice as much, and so worth it, especially if this is a one time dream vacation visiting Rome.
Looking into the underground area
Standing in the underground area
History in a Nutshell
The Colosseum is an iconic symbol of ancient Rome and a marvel of Roman engineering and architecture. Built in the first century AD under the rule of Emperor Vespasian, the Colosseum is one of the largest and most well-preserved amphitheaters in the world.
Ancient and remarkable
Amazing
This massive structure could hold up to 80,000 spectators and was used for various forms of entertainment, including gladiatorial contests, animal hunts, and mock sea battles. The Colosseum’s design features a complex system of ramps, tunnels, and trapdoors that allowed for the efficient movement of people, animals, and props during events.
Beautiful at night
The exterior of the Colosseum showcases three distinct architectural orders: Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian, reflecting the grandeur and sophistication of Roman architecture. The Colosseum’s elliptical shape and tiered seating provided excellent views for all spectators, creating an immersive and thrilling experience for the audience.
Despite centuries of neglect and damage from earthquakes and stone-robbers, the Colosseum still stands as a testament to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of the ancient Romans.
Popular
Today, the Colosseum is a popular tourist attraction and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, drawing millions of visitors each year to marvel at its grandeur and learn about its fascinating history. Even during our visit in March, and even on a rainy day, there were thousands of people. If you want to visit Rome, I recommend doing it in the shoulder season. Summer can be jam-packed.
Colosseum in the background taken from the Forum
Underground in the Colosseum
When in Rome
The Colosseum serves as a poignant reminder of the power, culture, and entertainment of ancient Rome, symbolizing the enduring legacy of one of the greatest civilizations in history. Everyone should see it once in a lifetime. Be sure to see it after dark too. Magical.
This is a powerful telling of three generations of Yanktonai Dakota Native American Women over multiple generations. Disturbing but also important, like other books about the horrific treatment of Native peoples during the early years of USA expansion. Here is my book review The Council of Dolls by Mona Susan Powers.
Dolls
Powers using dolls to tell this story…three dolls that belonged to three different generations of women. Each doll propelling the story forward of the anguish and heartache of these women and their life and loves.
First we meet Sissy in the early 1960’s as she tries to make her mother love her. Sissy wants to feel secure and safe, but her mother is battling her own demons. Sissy’s doll Ethel might save her life.
Next we meet Lillian, who has witnessed the unthinkable at the hands of a nun in an Indian School in the 1920’s far from her family she loves. Lillian will lose two people she loves the most, and her doll Mae will try to ease the pain.
And finally we meet Cora, born in 1888 her life will be upended at the end of the Indian Wars when she is transferred to an Indian School. On arrival her most precious items will be taken from her and burned, including her doll Winona. The spirit of Winona will guide Cora through the tragedies that will come.
This is a powerful story of the generations of grief and pain that will forever haunt the people who witnessed the massacre of a people at the hands of white run, Christian boarding schools that have still to this day not apologized or provided restitution for the damage and death that was dealt.
*****Five stars for The Council of Dolls by Mona Susan Powers.
Sicily. Sensory overload. A journey of the senses bursting with color, taste and joy. I couldn’t bring myself to write another itinerary post. I really wanted to share more deeply about this island; a vast, diverse, astounding scene with overpowering pull. Come with me on a Sicily Sensory Journey.
Scopello Tower near our Airbnb
Where Am I
We spent three weeks in Western Sicily. In February. Western Sicily is less traveled than other parts of the island and February is a very low tourism month. I recommend both for this reason. Our senses were treated to a wonderful self guided tour, and we nearly had the place to ourselves. I can’t image trying to enjoy this place in July with thousands of other people. February and March were perfect for a Sicily Sensory Journey.
Western Sicily
Sights and Colors
Green is not what I was expecting. But in February green is the color. Green, blue and gold. Come August the island will be brown and dangerously dry. In fact in the past few years climate change has increased the frequency of devastating wildfires. But in February and March it’s lush. The mountains look like they are blanketed in green velvet. The fields are full of glossy green trees laden with yellow lemons and oranges. Silvery green olive trees cover miles and miles of the island. The Mediterranean sea tempts you with it’s turquoise shimmer, but it’s too chilly this time of year. Enjoy watching it crash into the gray and white rocky coast.
Green in Scopello
Blue and White near Agrigento
Green and Blue Scopello
Green Scopello
Golden ruins from ancient civilizations create a contrast to all the green…the surprising history of this island going back thousands of years is still present and accessible in dozens of preserved ruins, medieval towns, and ancient settlements. Most all of it built from local alabaster limestone aged to flaxen by sun, rain, wind and years. The stories it holds in its depths fire the imagination.
Golden Ruins
Ancient road Ericce
Golden Shadows at Castelvetrano
Mosaic at Segesta
In the shops, a rainbow of colorful Sicilian ceramics, popular with visitors and locals, shout out in motifs of fruit, vegetables and ancient faces amidst a riot of primary colors.
Sicilian Ceramics in Agrigento
Color punch in Parrini
As February melted into March we were rewarded with wildflowers of every hue; orange, yellow, purple, pink and blue. Their little heads bobbing in the wind in a joyful dance of spring, as if saying welcome. Welcome to our Sicily Sensory Journey.
Apricot blooms Scopello
A riot of orange in Segesta
Cows enjoying spring in Scopello
A burst of color in Agrigento
Sounds
Italian drivers are, in a word, insane. But in February traffic is low and I can only imagine how the sound of vehicles in the summer changes the ambiance. Our little Airbnb near the Northwest corner of Sicily sat over looking the sea on a dirt road at the end of a bluff. Most days we didn’t hear or see another human. Just nature; wind, rain, birds. Occasionally a dog barking off in the distance. The sound of silence. A treat for the senses, when we live our lives in such busy and noisy times.
Palermo
Marsala
Sicily was a lovely place to search out birds, as we walked the peaceful trails and unpopulated towns. From lying in bed in our cozy cottage bedroom to standing on top of windswept mountains we listened to new-to-us birdsong, a part of this little piece of paradise called western Sicily.
European Robin (Merlin App)
European Siren (Merlin App)
Eurasian Kestrel (Merlin App)
Rose Ringed Parakeet (Merlin App)
Tastes and Smells
Close your eyes and breath deep. The smells of Sicily might startle you; fishmonger aroma is surprisingly fresh and salty; any beach, of course smells of the sea but also of something sparkling and clean. The ancient sites smell of earth and secrets. And of course the agriculture smells of citrus, artichoke, new sprung grasses and something deep and peppery. Sicily Sensory Journey. Makes you smile.
Zingaro Nature Reserve
Local Harvest
Ancient Olive Tree
Ancient Church
Of course there is the food and the wine – this is not Italy…it’s Sicily and it’s not exactly the same. Yes you will indulge in pasta and pizza. Sicilian food is always made with the freshest and most in-season ingredients, sourced close to the plate. Home cooks and chefs alike are resolute in their commitment to local and seasonal components. All the many tastes of Sicily are changing with the calendar, creating a sensory dance on your pallet. During our visit we fell hard for the local and seasonal sardines, tuna and squid. We ate olives and citrus everyday. We reveled in local ingredients like pistachio, ricotta, tomatoes and fresh-made pasta from local wheat. Food and culture are so closely entwined in Sicily, and a major ingredient of the Sicily Sensory Journey.
Grilled Vegetables
Wine at Sunset
Fresh Octopus in the market
Coffee and Blue Skies
Sicily Sensory Journey
It’s easy to find hundreds of blog posts and travel articles about what you should do and see when you visit Sicily. And you should absolutely visit Sicily. I know I will visit again. For your planning purposes, let’s consider instead of a whirlwind tour, a slow travel, off-season and sensory tour. It’s the perfect place to find yourself – away from the hustle and bustle, stress and chaos of the world we live in. The colors, the sounds, the smells, and of course the tastes of Sicily. Unforgettable.
Roman Amphitheater Segesta
Local and Fresh
Come for the history, beauty and food. But come for a Sicily Sensory Journey.
Parts of this book I loved, in particular the focus on a family with a disabled child who doesn’t speak. But other parts of it I just didn’t love, in particular the portrayal of police detective as dishonest and a few too many coincidences to keep the plot moving forward. But you will need to decide for yourself. Here is my book review Happiness Falls by Angie Kim.
Crisis
The book is placed during the pandemic when Mia and her family are on lockdown in their home. Mia, home from college, and her twin brother John, have returned to the family home where their bi-racial parents (Mom Hannah Korean and Dad Adam Caucasian) live with their disabled brother Eugene. The family has dealt with eleven -year- old Eugene’s severe disability of Angelman Syndrome and Autism. Eurgene does not speak. This is the families biggest crisis to date – the constant care of Eugene. And then there is a little thing called the Pandemic. But what happens next is the biggest crisis of all.
Missing
Mia’s father is missing. How long do you wait to call the police when someone is missing? Hindsight is always helpful, but on the day this particular crisis began Mia doesn’t think there is really anything unusual about the fact her father is not home.
But as the hours and days drag on, clearly this is a major crisis. The last person to see dad Adam was Eugene. But Eugene is unable to communicate. Or is he really? Did Adam know something about communicating with Eugene? Does Eugene’s so called “violent” outbursts mean he is a suspect? Did Eugene attack a police officer or was he trying to communicate?
Where is Adam?
The heart of the book is this family and the crisis they are thrust into when Adam does not return home from a day in the park with Eugene. Decisions, or lack of in the first few hours as well as discoveries on Adam’s computer and voice mail will send the family spiraling as they try to understand what has happened to the man they love. Could he possibly have been unfaithful? Disappeared on purpose? Or has he been injured or killed? Where is he?
This missing person drama is written with an interesting collection of footnotes and multiple genre styles that are unique and propel the reader forward in the story. Kim has a race element and uses the pandemic as part of the plot. As I said before I liked this book, and praise Kim’s research of the subject of Angelman Syndrome. I learned a lot about that. But I just didn’t love the story. Good but not great.
Sorprendente! What a surprise Sicily was. I was lucky enough to spend three weeks in Sicily, the island just off the toe of Italy’s boot, during the month of February 2024. It was an interesting time of year to visit – very few tourists and many restaurants closed for the winter. But, as we always do, we found lots to do and spent time Tasting Sicily – Surprising and Delicious.
Olives – A Staple Food Everyday
This beautiful island is really something special. I could easily spend several months here and still not get enough of it. You probably know I love to talk about, write about and EAT local cuisines. So today let me explore with you the cuisine and culture of Sicily in the first of a two part series on Sicily. I think I can tempt your taste buds and entice you to visit this delicious island, the largest in the Mediterranean. Here we go!
Culturally Diverse
I loved this place, its people and its food. Every local we had the chance to talk with referred to themselves as Sicilian, not Italian. There is a very strong sense of cultural identity here, and the people embrace their unique history. You see it in the agriculture, architecture, art, history and most definitely in the food.
This beautiful platter of traditional Sicilian foods we enjoyed in Palermo
History
From the day we arrived we felt the difference between Sicily and Italy. Sicily felt more like Malta to us than like Italy. It felt a bit like Morocco. It also felt like Cyprus and Greece. Memories of Tunisia came to mind as well as Spain. The language is Italian, but the dialect is different. The people look a little Arabic. It’s a melting pot of thousands of years of the island changing hands.
We came to Sicily expecting Roman history and Italian food but found so very much more. And thanks to this incredibly diverse cultural history, Sicily is singular in its identity. Although part of Italy today, it remains, Sicily.
Cefalu port
Embracing Locally Grown
Every gastronomic experience we enjoyed was touted as seasonally produced, and locally sourced. Sicily produces an astonishing array of foodstuff. Local cooks and restaurants alike choose the island-grown always…and often just do without if it can’t be sourced from Sicily. Seasonal favorites like cherries or sardines figure heavily in dishes produced at particular times of the year. The locally produced list is long, and I can’t even begin to mention all the ingredients that are grown and originate on the island. But here are just some of the most delicious island produced foods we reaped;
From the Fields
Citrus – everywhere we looked, including in our own front yard of our Airbnb, there was citrus weighing down the branches of every tree. Winter is harvest time and the oranges and lemons are colorful, juicy and abundant.
Lemons in the grove next to our Airbnb in Western Sicily
Pistachio – first introduced by the Arabs, today Pistachios are considered like “gold” to several local economies, especially the city of Bronte in the province of Catania where much of this lovely nut is cultivated.
Pistachio is part of both savory and sweet dishes throughout the island
Artichoke – Also introduced to the island by the Arabs, we enjoyed artichokes in several dishes, which were everywhere freshly harvested in February.
Artichokes were in season during our late winter visit
Eggplant – another popular winter vegetable finds it’s way into so many delicious dishes. It’s one of my favorite vegetables, under-utilized back home in the USA but definitely loved in Sicily.
Delicious Grilled Eggplant with Zuchinni and Peppers
Capers – the small island of Salina, one of Sicily’s tiny islands, is where most of the delicious capers come from. A perfect briny compliment to so many dishes.
Wild Fennel – I was intrigued on our hikes and walks the abundance wild fennel growing fast and furious in February. This delicious vegetable shows up in many Sicilian dishes and as a garnish too.
Wild Fennel
Almonds – available year around, but the spring pink blooms are a harbinger of the late summer nut.
Wheat – the Romans brought wheat to the island, and in most homes locally-produced flour similar to semolina is used to make fresh pasta and bread. The bread here is truly amazing. Though dried pasta is available in the grocery store like in the USA, home cooks still make the pasta on Sunday. The Trapani area near where we were staying is famous for the egg less Busiati pasta, a curly long pasta made fresh with local flour, oil and water.
Fresh ground wheat made into fine flour was what we used to make the busiati
Couscous – surprising to us, we found couscous a favorite dish available in many restaurants and in grocery stores. The Arabs brought this dish to the island, along with a mix of raisins, pine nuts and spices that have become part of the Sicilian diet.
Couscous with Fish is a Sicilian Favorite
From the Sea
Squid and Octopus – stuffed squid and several octopus dishes enticed us during our visit. There are so many seafood dishes available in restaurants as well as fish mongers sharing the daily catch, you can never go wrong with fresh seafood from the waters that surround Sicily.
Octopus with Potato is a local favorite
Tuna – I’ve eaten a lot of fresh tuna in my life but two memorable restaurant dishes with fresh caught tuna in early March were unbelievable.
Simply prepared fresh tuna was one of the best I have ever eaten at a Cefalu restaurant
Sardines – early spring is the peak of the sardines, and we ate them multiple times including in the famous Sicilian dish pasta con le sarde.
Pasta con le Sarde might be Sicily’s most famous dish
Salt – for centuries the west coast of Sicily has been home to salt harvesting. Similar to many places around the world we have visited, delicious salt from the sea is a staple for Sicily and also an export
Salt Flats near Marsala
Say Cheese
Cheese – there are many locally produced cheeses, my favorite from the island was the abundant and creamy ricotta. But there is more than one ricotta produced on the island, as well as several hard cheeses. You can’t go wrong with any of them. Learn more about Sicilian Cheese here.
Cannolo made with fresh Sicilian Ricotta. This one was orange flavored.
And the Best of All…
Olive Oil – Sicily is dotted with miles and miles of olive trees…many older than most humans. First introduced to the island by the Greeks, families produce their own years-worth supply of olive oil each fall, and larger productions of the ubiquitous liquid goes to market. You can’t cook or eat Sicilian without this golden ingredient.
Wine – did I save the best for last? Wine of course is part of every meal and the grape varieties were crisp and delicious. The Romans brought the grapes to the island, and today vineyards produce about 160 million gallons of wine each year. Some popular new-to-me varietals included Nero de Avola, Grillo and Cattarratto.
Grillo was one of our favorite Sicilian variatals
Tasting Sicily – Surprising and Delicious
One of the best things we did during our three weeks was enjoy a wonderful cooking class with Liliana at the historic farm known as Baglio Florio. Liliana’s organic farm ingredients from Adamobio helped guide us through the amazing local dishes that take their flavors from the island. During our class all the ingredients we used and ate were locally grown and produced – including the amazing wine. If you are coming to Sicily, cooking with Liliana is an absolute must. In addition to cooking classes you can take wine tours with lunch or have events at the beautiful historic farm. Check out her website and her Instagram page.
Cooking class at historic Baglio Florio
Caponata
One dish that will remind any Sicilian of their childhood is caponata. Served cold or room temperature it is an absolute favorite. Both a summer and winter dish, we ate caponata as part of an aperitivo before we even knew what a local specialty it was. Liliana introduced us to it in our cooking class. Caponata is usually made with eggplant (aubergine) but the recipe can be very flexible to available ingredients. In fact since Liliana only uses ingredients from her farm, on this day we replaced the eggplant with apples. This dish is simple and easily made in advance for perfect entertaining. And absolutely delicious. Try this recipe.
Caponata, usually made with eggplant, is a favorite for Sicilians
Stuffed Sun dried Tomatoes
This delicious appetizer also showed up on aperitivo trays. Sun dried tomatoes are a favorite snack plain as well. Usually dried in the summer and stored, the tomatoes can be soaked in water for a few hours to rehydrate and used multiple ways for a powerful flavor punch. Here we made a filling of bread crumbs, garlic, orange rind, mint, water. The filling was placed between two similarly sized halves of tomato then very quickly fried in olive oil. Served at room temperature, I absolutely loved this.
Busiate Trapani (Almond Pesto)
Our visit to Sicily was spent entirely in the western region where this regional dish is a favorite. Trapani is a port town as well as a region, and almonds are a favored local nut. This dish can also be made with pistachios, another Sicilian favorite. Busiate was a new to me pasta, the shape important to the dish. We made the pasta by hand, using a wooden skewer to roll each piece into it’s distinctive shape. The shape holds the pesto sauce perfectly. I will definitely make this locally significant dish again. Try this recipe.
Handmade Busiate Pasta
Almond Pesto was delicious and easy too
Cassatelle
Sicilian’s love the ricotta and this dessert uses the best of local ingredients. This delicious dessert is a favorite of mine because it is not too sweet. The lovely dough can be prepared easily and the filling is made from the delicious local ricotta, a hint of sugar and usually tiny chocolate chips. We fried these in a mixture of vegetable oil and olive oil. Served at room temperature they were the perfect complement to our meal with Liliana. Try this recipe.
Ricotta stuffed Casatelle
So much fun spending these hours at Baglio Florio and we loved all of these delicious and authentic dishes. Liliana kindly invited us to return for dinner or a wine tour but unfortunately we could not make that happen in the days before we left. You must visit Liliana and eat with her when in Sicily. You can’t possibly feel more a part of the local culture than this.
Thank you Liliana
Simple and Loved
Just a couple more dishes I want to mention because these simple peasant foods have continued to be part of the daily staple of Sicilians for generations. You will find these as take and go items just about everywhere you go. Fresh, filling and inexpensive, Sicilians love these daily and delicious lunch fare.
Pane Cunzato
This amazing sandwich is a go to for Sicilians. The ingredients usually are cheese, tomato and anchovy but the most important ingredient is the incredible bread. It is made fresh daily and consumed in great quantities. Try this recipe.
Pane Cunzato
Arancini
Another great food of Sicily is Arancini. Available all over Italy and Sicily, I have eaten arancini in many places around the world, but in Sicily I had some of the best. Made Traditionally with tomato and mozzarella, there are many other flavors as well. Often in Sicily the arancini is shaped like a pointy hat, and is a take and go meal. Learn more here.
Arancini
Sfincione
Wow this dish knocked my socks off. A traditional food of Palermo, we had a delicious version from a bakery in Scopello. A cross between pizza and bruschetta, it is, once again, all about the bread. Makes a perfect light lunch or snack. You must try it when in Sicily. Learn more here.
Sfincione on the right
Consider Sicily
Have you considered visiting Sicily? If not you should. There are many, many reasons to visit but the food, culture and people are hands down the best reasons. You will fall in love with all three. As a visitor you will be embraced by the locals who share their love for their island and it’s unique history through food. Go book a ticket today. Sicily is waiting to feed you.
So delicious
Next week I’ll share with you some of the special feelings I have about this beautiful island. I can’t sing its praises enough. Come back for more next week. Meanwhile…I’m going to go have a glass of Sicilian wine. Molto bene.
This beautiful, easy to read novel made me choke up at the end. I highly recommend it. Here is my Book Review The Samurai’s Garden: A Novel by Gail Tsukiyama.
1930’s Japan & China
Tsukiyama, who herself is part Chinese and part Japanese, creates a beautiful narrative of 1930’s pre-war China and Japan. We are introduced to a 20-year old young Chinese man, who comes home from university to recover from tuberculosis. His family sends him to their summer home in Japan, to get him out of the city and to help him recover near the sea.
Stephen misses his family, especially his younger sister, but over the course of year he becomes close to Matsu, the caretaker of the families home. Despite the Chinese boy and the Japanese man’s different upbringings, economic status and cultural differences, the two develop a bond. And Stephen learns about Matsu’s secrets, his loyalty and love.
Matsu will teach Stephen about devotion, and survival in a world that prizes honor more than life itself. As we learn more about past tragedies in Matsu’s life, Stephen both matures and returns to health.
But when Japan invades China, and World War is mounting, the two friends will say good bye with hopeful hearts to see one another again.
Book Review The Samurai’s Garden: A Novel by Gail Tsukiyama
A short and easy to read novel, with an underlying message of tolerance and love, that goes beyond any Chinese or Japanese story I have read before. *****Five stars for The Samurai’s Garden by Gail Tsukiyama.
Puglia, a little secret – at least it was to me. Having traveled to the big five of Italy; Rome, Milan, Florence, Venice and Naples, I kinda thought I had “done” Italy. We were researching Bologna, and then I stumbled upon Puglia. And now Adora la Puglia – I love Puglia, Italy’s “Segreta”.
Puglia in SE Italy on the Adriatic
Our five days in the Puglia region was a whirlwind. I thought it would be plenty of time. Re-examining I wish we had ten days, even though we made it work. Interestingly, visiting in February had the advantage of almost no tourists but the disadvantage of many shops and restaurants closed for the month. Evidently this is when many business people take a vacation. It was not a hardship for us, we found plenty to see and do and really loved how quiet and uncrowded it was. We had beautiful weather which we were very grateful for.
Bellisima
In the course of our five days we hit nine cities and villages. Most places we just wandered aimlessly through the streets, astonished at the history, architecture and beauty. In a few other places we hired a guide to give us more in depth knowledge. And everywhere we ate the incredible food, and drank the incredible wine.
Sassi di Matera
Below is a list of the nine places we visited over our five day visit. For your planning purposes I would recommend you look beyond these nine, as there are other places we did not get to. But for this blog post, this is what we did – Adora la Puglia – I love Puglia, Italy’s “Segreta”.
A Note – you can do this tour by train, but I really recommend a car. It is a law to have an International Drivers License in Italy so plan ahead. During our visit we used an app called Easy Park to help us find and pay for parking in every city we went to. Italians drive like crazy people. Take it slow and safe and they will go around you.
This beautiful little town is what first attracted us to the Puglia region. After seeing a photo of the iconic Trulli architecture of Alberobello we were smitten. We spent our five days in a historic Trulli turned Airbnb, and used Alberobello as our Puglia base. Alberobello is a UNESCO World Heritage village and has grown in popularity for visitors and group tours over the past few years.
Our historic Airbnb
Our Airbnb, part of an old farm
Trulli
What is a Trulli? In the 17th and 18th century Alberobello was overseen by a feudal lord. In his effort to avoid taxes, he had all the peasants live in the Trulli – a stone house with a conical roof that were built without mortar. The lack of mortar made the structures “temporary” and thus no taxes. At the time, the area was a vast forest (Alberobello means beautiful tree) and the peasants were clearing the trees. Until the late 1700’s Alberobello was not a designated town.
Beautiful Alberobello
Spring is in the air
Alberobello Aia Piccola
Looking towards Rione Monti
Aia Piccola
Today, throughout the region for miles around Alberobello you will see historic Trulli dotting the landscape, including the Airbnb we stayed in. But within the historic center of Alberobello there are two distinct areas of tightly compacted Trulli. We did a private walking tour with a local through both areas. Our guide Guido showed us the smaller Aia Piccola which is still home to many locals. It is a small neighborhood of friendly people. We went inside one home to see how people once lived.
Rione Monti
Cats of Alberobello
Rione Monti
The larger more touristic area is Rione Monti. This neighborhood is positioned on a hill and provides perfect photo opportunities. This is also where the shops and restaurants are. Many shops are local products including popular wood and ceramic works as well as jewelry and clothing. I purchased a beautiful scarf, a small Trulli shaped olive oil decanter and a charm for my bracelet. On our first day we discovered two delicious local specialties; Orecchiette with turnip tops and Braciole, a delicious slow roasted rolled beef.
Beef Braciole at the tiny but delicious My Grandmothers Pantry
Monopoli & Polignano a Mare
After our morning walking tour of Alberobello and a quick lunch, we headed out towards the coast and the two larger cities; Monopoli and Polignano a Mare.
An ancient fortified city, Monopoli was founded in 500 BC by the Greeks. Similar to much of this southern part of Italy, Monopoli passed through the hands of the Romans, Goths, Byzantines and Normans. Today it is a beautiful seaside city with a gorgeous Basilica of the Madonna della Madia, sparkling turquoise water dotted with quaint fishing boats and lots of restaurants and shops for visitors. In the summer it is a popular beach destination.
Another seaside town perched ontop of limestone cliffs with beautiful views of the Adriatic. A rich ancient history beginning in the 4th century, Polignano was likely originally named Neopolis by the Greeks, while some historians say Julius Caesar founded it as a hub along the Via Traiana, one of several ancient Roman roads in the region. Today Polignano a Mare celebrates itself as a modern city popular with tourists all year long. A statue of native son Domenico Modugno, best known for the song Volare, is a popular tourist photo spot.
Next time I’d love a hotel room with this view
Domenico Modugno
Ostuni, Cisterno, Martina Franca and Locorotondo
On day three we set out early to explore four ancient hilltop villages all within about an hour or less from Alberobello.
We actually arrived in Ostuni so early nothing was really open yet. But we parked the car and took a long walk around the “white city” – referred to for it’s white walls and buildings. Ostuni is very popular with visitors and the population explodes in the summer. On the morning we were there we seriously had the place to ourselves. It was wonderful to just wander and peek into the various alleys and stairways. The original settlement here can be dated back to the stone age.
We really enjoyed the hilltop village of Cisternino, with views across the valley to neighboring Martina Franca. The village was just coming awake on our arrival. We enjoyed an espresso before wandering the streets, taking in the view from the panorama vista and visiting some local cathedrals.
The original town is said to have been destroyed by the Goths, and it was rebuilt as a monastery by the Basillian Monks in the Middle Ages. Today it’s dense interior gives it a maze feel and offers visitors to enjoy a treasure hunt as they wander.
Named for Saint Martin and founded in the 10th century, Martina Franca is famous for its olive oil production and its Baroque architecture. It’s another good place to take a slow stroll within its gated walls, or wander outside the gates where commerce continues and locals sit and watch the world go by.
One of my favorites of this day was our final stop in Locorotondo. Another very small hill top village, with the name meaning “round place”. The village was a unfortified walled city from about 1000 AD, founded by Benedictine monks. Today it is a tourist mecca for its beauty and architecture.
Locorotondo
We had a late lunch/early dinner here in Locorotondo, and it was one of the best meals we had anywhere in Italy. We just stumbled into Osteria Il Rosoni, one of the few restaurants that were open. It was a great discovery. We drank the local Verdante wine and ate several local specialties. It was a great way to end day three.
Day four we headed out from Alberobello about an hour and 15 min drive to Matera. I had seen photos of this place and I knew it had a unique history but was not prepared for how amazing it was. We spent the entire day in this town and if I were to visit again I would spend a night or two in this remarkable UNESCO site.
Looking across the ravine to Matera
Astonishing history
You definitely should start your visit on the Murgia side, across the ravine, to get a good look back at this astonishing cave city. What you are looking at is a prehistoric troglodyte village, thought to be among the first human settlements of what is today Italy. The oldest Neolithic pottery found dates to 7500 BC. It is truly one of the oldest inhabited settlements in the world.
Today’s city is built on top of the original caves, but many cave dwellings still exist and are occupied in their updated form. In the 1950’s it was considered the “shame of Italy” because the inhabitants were so poor. The government relocated them to a new area. But eventually in the 1990’s the potential for tourism and commerce started to be noticed, and today it is really one of the most remarkable places in the world. Read the Smithsonian story about it here.
Ancient but living
A fascinating way of life
Such a great day
We enjoyed a really delicious meal in Sassi di Matera at Il Terazzino within a cave. Great food and service too. It was a favorite day and I am so glad we visited this remarkable place.
Our time in Pugla flew by, and on our last day we were tired, but decided to make the hour and half drive south to Lecce. We figured it was unlikely we would ever return to this area, so we didn’t want to waste a day. The drive was on a good freeway much of the way and we arrived with plenty of time to find parking and then search out the tour we had booked ahead.
Symbol of Lecce
Roman Coliseum
Lecce has a fascinating history. Most of the architecture is Baroque dating back to the 12th and 13th century. But legend dates the original city to the 5th BC. Below the current town only recently (early 1920’s) was discovered an entire coliseum, and nearby an entire Roman theatre. Both areas are still to be full excavated but will eventually be opened to tourists.
Roman Theatre
Lecce has several stunning cathedrals, including the recently restored Basilica de Santa Croce. You should also visit the city’s Bell Tower, popular with tourists and you can climb to the top. The walls of the original city, dating back 2000 years, can still be seen in several places around what is often referred to as the “Florence of the South”.
Lecce hidden gems
Lecce
Back to Alberobello
We made the drive back to Alberobello, where we wanted to enjoy this little gem after dark on our final night. We had an outstanding dinnner at 100Metricubi, a unique menu of local octopus, bean mash (a local favorite) and of course, wine.
Alberobello at night
Beautiful scene Alberobello
Our final meal was amazing
Primativa our favorite
I do not take lightly how astonishing my travel life is. It can be exhausting and sometimes it’s a lot of work for the planning and execution. However, the result is a treasure chest of memories of people, places and experiences that have forever changed me, taught me, inspired me and made me a better steward of the earth. Thank you Puglia, you were something special. Adora la Puglia – I love Puglia, Italy’s “Segreta”.
Ciao Bella, Puglia
Thank you for reading my post Adora la Puglia – I love Puglia, Italy’s “Segreta”. I hope you will consider adding Puglia to your travel bucket list.
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