Welcome to the second of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Tbilisi Georgia.
The country of Georgia just blew my mind for it’s history, beauty, people, wine and food! I really enjoyed my week in Tbilisi. But there is political unrest too. So for today’s blog post let me start with the recent elections; Tbilisi Georgia, The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.
Looking down on the city of Tbilisi after a gondola ride up the mountain. Peace bridge on the left and Performing Arts Center in the middle.
The Bad
On October 26th, a month after our visit, elections were held and the ruling party – referred to as the Dream Party – was re-elected to Parliament. Georgia has a Prime Minister/Parliamentary strong system. Immediately protests began and countries around the world questioned the legitimacy of the election. A partial recount was done and again the Dream Party was announced as the winner. Georgians took to the street in protest of what they believe was a manipulated vote with Russian interference. It’s too early to tell how this might unfold and affect tourism in this beautiful nation. For more details it is explained in the NPR Report. This entire process sounds eerily familiar to me as an American.
I will add that during our visit we had a wonderful guide on a food tour who was unusually vocal about the upcoming election. She feared that the Dream Party would do whatever it takes to win the election and keep the country pro-Russian. She and most Georgians supported moving the country forward with more Western leaning tendencies towards Europe. Georgia is waiting to be confirmed as a member of the European Union. This election result would likely remove them as a candidate.
On My Own
If you read last week’s post about our car accident while we were visiting Yerevan Armenian, you know that my husband suffered a concussion. Arne was having some pretty serious symptoms; fatigue, dizziness, trouble swallowing and numbness on his right side. We agreed that he needed a quiet week. So, luckily our Airbnb in Tbilisi was peaceful and comfortable and he spent nearly the entire week resting. Meanwhile I gallivanted around Tbilisi on my own. Tbilisi was easy for me to maneuver and the weather was great and I got to see the sites. Poor Arne.
Wine ice cream. Yep – it’s a thing.
The Good
Hopefully starting off with “the bad” didn’t turn you off too much, because my experience during the week in Tbilisi was really great. On my own I did three tours, and at the end of the week Arne joined me for one more. This is a remarkably beautiful, historic, inexpensive and DELICIOUS country. I loved it. So let’s talk about it.
Kebabs and other meat is very popular in Tbilisi
A Little History
Georgia is a country situated at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It boasts rich history that dates back to ancient times. The region has been inhabited since the Paleolithic era, and it became a significant cultural and political center in the early medieval period. The Kingdom of Georgia emerged in the 11th century. Reaching its zenith under King David IV and Queen Tamar known for its advancements in art, architecture, and literature. However, the kingdom faced invasions from the Mongols and later the Ottomans and Persians. This lead to a decline in its power and fragmentation into smaller principalities.
Stalin, who was born in Georgia, was married in this church
In the 19th century, Georgia was annexed by the Russian Empire, which brought significant changes to its political landscape. Following the collapse of the Russian Empire in 1917, Georgia declared independence, but this was short-lived as it was invaded by the Red Army in 1921. Georgia was incorporated into the Soviet Union. Georgia regained its independence in 1991 after the dissolution of the USSR. The post-Soviet period was marked by political instability and conflicts, including the wars in Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Today, Georgia is a sovereign nation striving for democratic development, economic growth, and closer ties with Europe and NATO, while preserving its unique cultural heritage.
Where Am I
We drove across the border from Armenia to Tbilisi with a hired car and driver. This is an easy way to cross the border with some sightseeing opportunities. We had to visit the countries of the Caucasus in this order. We could not go from Armenia to Azerbaijan because of closed borders between those two countries. Armenia and Georgia currently have good diplomatic relations.
Tbilisi Walking Tours
I did a walking tour and a food walking tour on my own during the week. I booked both these group tours with Viator and both were exceptional. The city of Tbilisi has some beautiful architecture, both old and new. The country of Georgia is an officially secular nation. Religion in Georgia reached a major turning point in 326 AD. The nation is largely recognized as the second country in the world (after Armenia) to have adopted Christianity. Today 85% of Georgians are Christian and 11% practice the Muslim faith. Once numbering as many as 100,000, today the Georgian Jewish population comprises only a few thousand people. Most of the Jewish population emigrated to Israel, United States and Belgium.
Typical Georgian Architecture in the old city
Old walls and new construction
The historic Kashveti Church survived the Soviet era
So Delicious
Some of the best food I’ve ever eaten was right here in Tbilisi. I know right? Considering how many places I have traveled that is saying a lot. Every restaurant we ate in was amazing. Prices are incredible low (dinner for two with drinks less than $20 USD). Restaurant staff was always so welcoming. The food tour I took was so interesting. We were treated with some hidden gems including an underground bakery, a tiny secret tea room, and wine tasting.
Tea is the favored drink in Georgia as well as a social event
My favorite foods included amazing hummus; a local specialty called Khingali – a delicious dumpling; and best of all Khachapuri – the national dish of Georgia is a delicious filled pastry that Georgians eat everyday.
Kingali Dumplings – similar to soup dumplings
Hummus – yum
Both egglant and pomegranite are popular
Lamb and wine – a great pairing
Kachapuri – stuffed bread – has many versions. This one with goat cheese and egg was my favorite. I need to try and make this!
Check out the YouTube video below to see my Tasty Tuesday all about Georgia Cuisine
Surprising Georgian Wine
I had no idea that Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world. The fertile valleys and protective slopes of the South Caucasus were home to grapevine cultivation and neolithic wine production for at least 8000 years. Georgians are very proud of this fact and of their local wines. On each of the three tours I did on my own, we tasted wine – that’s how important it is to this region. I really enjoyed all the wine I tasted and plan to look for Georgian wines back in the USA. Who knew?
Enjoying wine tasting on the walking tour
More delicious wine at dinner
Wine is abundant and incredibly inexpensive
The Beautiful
Tbilisi was indeed beautiful, but the surrounding region was breathtaking. I did one day trip out of the city by myself to the UNESCO World Heritage monastery of Mtskheta and the city of Gori. This destination is less than an hour outside of Tbilisi. There were only two people on this tour and our guide/driver was really great.
Christianity
Mtskheta is one of the oldest cities in Georgia as well as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is located at the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers. Currently a small provincial capital. For nearly a millennium Mtskheta was a large fortified city. It also served as a significant economic and political center of the Kingdom of Iberia.
View of the Kura River from the hilltop ancient monastery
Inside the monastery
UNESCO church in Gori
Stunning Mountains
By the end of our week Arne was feeling up to doing an all-day private tour to Kazbegi & Gudauri. I am so glad he felt better. It would have been tragic to miss this region near the Georgian border with Russia. Truly astonishingly beautiful. It was a very long drive though, mostly due to difficult two lane roads. There is some major infrastructure work going on. Extensive improvements will help make this trip easier in the near future.
Gergeti Trinity Church – spectacular fall day and iconic view
We were blessed with outstanding weather on our late September visit. Incredibly only a week later the area was blanketed with snow. The mountain region is a well known ski area popular with both Russians and Georgians. Additionally this beautiful backdrop shows off one of Georgia’s most stunning churches, Gergeti Trinity Church. We were able to do a couple short hikes to visit a waterfall and breath the delicious mountain air.
Stunning Scenery
Incredible history
Soviet Friendship Mural
Just beautiful
Final Thoughts
I can’t end this post without mentioning the historic thermal baths in Tbilisi. These are a must-do when visiting this area. The history of Tbilisi’s sulfur baths dates back to the city’s founding in the 5th century. This is when King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered the natural hot springs while hunting. The city’s name, Tbilisi, is derived from the Georgian word “tbili,” meaning warm, a clear nod to these thermal waters. Visitors have several options for visiting the thermal baths, both public or private bathing. We did a private hour long bath visit on our final day and it was really fun and relaxing.
Domes of the bath houses
Relaxing at the baths
A Wonderful Surprise
Tbilisi was a wonderful surprise, and a place I would definitely come back to if given the chance. The food and wine were delicious and inexpensive. Tours and driver hire were also inexpensive. Gas is running about $3.00 USD per gallon. The average wage in Georgia is $925 per month with a wide disparity between city and rural areas. The fall scenery and weather we enjoyed was wonderful and the people we met were welcoming and interesting.
This mural celebrating female political heroes
That is not me…but the mountains are a great place to paraglide
Georgia has issues they need to work on. I remain hopeful for this country to move forward in a positive way. We wish them all the best and thank everyone who made our visit so wonderful. I will be watching their progress in the months ahead.
Such a beautiful country. Hopeful for the people of Georgia.
Thank you for reading my post Tbilisi Georgia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Please see last week’s post Yerevan Armenia. You may also be interested in reading one of my favorite historical novels about Georgia – Hard By a Great Forest by Leo Vardiashvili. I highly recommend it.
Meanwhile come back next week for a new post in our series, next up – Azerbaijan. We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts. Thank you.
“To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive.” – Robert Louis Stevenson.
The question I get most often from people about our travels is “what’s your favorite country?” Honestly, I don’t love that question, because after visiting 147 countries, there are really only a handful I wouldn’t return to. Certainly, there are ones I like more than others…but choosing a favorite? Impossible. When I look back at all my travels, I find I am most fond of the countries that were unexpected for beauty, kindness, cost, culture, food and people. Some of our favorite experiences have been in lesser traveled destinations, where we met few other people like us. And today with over-tourism in places like France and Spain – finding the hidden gems is our goal and pleasure. So instead of telling you what my favorite country is, let me encourage you to travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries, full of adventure with fewer crowds.
EUROPE
I have visited almost all the European countries in Western, Eastern and Central Europe. There are still a few on my list. And though I of course have enjoyed time in the most popular countries like France, Spain and Italy, these are not on today’s list. You probably have also visited places like France, Spain and Italy, but have you considered travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries?
Poland
Poland
Why go to Poland?
Poland has everything the other European countries have, but it is so underrated as a destination. We spent three week traveling around Poland (by train) and loved it. The history, particularly WWII, is astonishing. The food (pierogies for the win!) is outstanding and the cities are gorgeous. Poland was home to Frederic Chopin, Marie Curie, Roman Polanski, Helena Rubenstein and many more. Poland has a rich arts and music culture, beautiful public squares, many performance facilities, and delicious food. Not all Poles speak English, but that adds to the charm of the place, and we absolutely loved all the wonderful locals we met.
Don’t Miss
Krakow for the beautiful square, musical performances, and a tour to Auschwitz. Don’t miss the small towns of Poznan and Wroclaw. Be sure to visit Warsaw to learn about the Jewish Ghetto and to see the public art. See posts I wrote about the amazing food of Poland here.
Bulgaria
Bulgaria
Why go to Bulgaria?
We spent the month of June in Bulgaria early in the Grand Adventure travels. We chose Bulgaria because it is not in the Schengen so it did not count against our 90 Schengen days for other Europe countries. But we were so unexpectedly enamored of the food, the fabulous history and beaches. And it remains one of the least expensive countries we have ever visited.
Bulgaria has surprising Roman ruins that you can visit without any other tourists around. We met some of the most amazing people, who were so genuinely grateful that we chose their country. Even those we met who spoke no English were so happy to meet us, and hugging was not uncommon. Bulgaria, like many Eastern European countries has had many conflicts and political changes over the millennia. But the people take it in stride and are proud and patriotic. Bulgaria is popular with Russian tourists and we met only one other American couple during our 30 day visit.
Don’t Miss
Sofia the capital has incredible history right under foot. Veliko Tarnova was our favorite, a fabulous mountain town built hanging above a river. Great hiking there. And Sozopol on the Black Sea was gorgeous and the beach here was incredible.
Malta
Malta
Why Go to Malta?
Becoming more popular, but still under the radar, this island nation was such a big surprise. If you go consider spring or fall, not during the summer when it does get crowded. We stayed in the city of Valletta, which reminded me of Dubrovnik. It is a magical place. We rented a car a couple of days to get outside of Valletta and visit Peter’s Pool, Blue Grotto, Mdina & Rabat. We took a day trip to the tiny island of Gozo, which would be worth a longer stay if you had the time. Everyone speaks English, but Malta has its own language as well called Maltese. I would love to go back to this relaxing, beautiful and unique place.
Don’t Miss
Valletta is beautiful, has cheap and delicious food and wine. Read all about our wonderful visit here Marvelous Malta.
Georgia
Georgia
Why Go to Georgia?
Last fall we visited the Eastern European countries of Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan over a three week period. We loved them all but Georgia really settled into a place in my heart. We spent the majority of our time in the capital city of Tbilisi, with some incredible daytrips outside of town to see the mountainous beauty of this country. Everyone spoke English and the people were kind and welcoming. Georgia struggled after the fall of the USSR but has come back strong. Yet like many countries around the world, mine included, an authoritarian leader has emerged, and the people are once again fighting for their rights. I loved the resilience of these people and the patriotism.
Don’t Miss
The food. Unexpected and incredible, the unique cuisine of Georgia is one of the best in the world. I took a food tour and a wine tasting tour (their wine is incredible) and loved every mouthful. Be sure to visit the thermal baths in the city of Tbilisi and make the trek to Kazbegi and Gudauri – stunningly beautiful. Read more about why I love Georgia here.
Cyprus
Cyprus
Why Go to Cyprus?
Cyprus will forever be in my heart because of the many kindnesses afforded us when we were locked down on this island nation in the early days of the world-wide pandemic. We were very lucky to find ourselves stuck here, despite not being able to move around the island. Luckily we made friends and felt safe and had everything we needed. We loved the people so much, two years later we returned for a ten day visit without restrictions. Read about it here.
Don’t Miss
Incredible UNESCO heritage sites throughout the island. Beaches that rival anywhere. Take a tour and cooking class with Cyprus Taste Tours. Eat all the food that is much like Greek, but also very much it’s own. If you are so inclined, you can walk across the UN Protected Border to Northern Cyprus for lunch and then walk back.
CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICA
There are handful of countries, mostly island nations, I still have not visited in Central and South America. But I have spent a lot of time in the most popular destinations like Costa Rica, Belize, Brazil and Argentina. But the ones I had my favorite experiences in were;
Honduras (Roatan)
Roatan Honduras
Why Go to Roatan?
The island of Roatan, just off mainland Honduras, is not plagued with some of the crime and issues found on the mainland. And direct flights to the island from Miami are easy, skipping going through the mainland. We spent an entire month in the tiny town of West End, and loved the relaxed Caribbean vibe. Though the beaches in the town were not great, there are many beaches on the island that are remarkable. If you don’t have a car, it can be difficult to get groceries, but we found a driver who was helpful to us when we wanted to tour or to go to the super market. It’s a very laid back experience and worth a visit.
Don’t Miss
Do an island tour with a guide to hit the main spots around the small island including the most beautiful beaches, hidden restaurants and the local microbrewery. Other fun spots including Daniel Johnson’s Sloth Sanctuary and the Roatan Botanical Gardens. Read about our Favorite Things in Roatan here.
Guatemala
Guatemala
Why Go to Guatemala?
We enjoyed a self-guided three week tour of Guatemala, arriving by a small open air boat from Belize. Our visit included Lake Flora and Tikal Mayan Ruins. We adored Antigua and were witness to the spectacle of Semana Santa over Easter. And we left our heart in Lake Atitlan…one of the most beautiful and peaceful places I have ever been. The people are quiet and kind. Curious and welcoming. Few people speak English except in the cities, but we had no problems.
Don’t Miss
Gorgeous and historic Antigua is incredible. Do a walking tour, history tour and take a Cooking Class. Lake Flora and Tikal are incredible for the beauty and history. And sit back and relax for a few days at hidden Lake Atitlan. Read more what I loved about Guatemala here.
Bolivia
Bolivia
Why Go to Bolivia?
Long on my bucket list, Bolivia did not disappoint. A remarkable place. Difficult to get around as an independent traveler (but not impossible), we chose to do a group tour while in Bolivia. We have no regrets about that choice – Intrepid Travel and our guide made the experience unforgettable. I recommend it highly. Bolivia has its issues (like everywhere) but it is fast becoming a popular tourist destination. I recommend you go soon.
Don’t Miss
La Paz was astonishing and seeing the way of life at 12,000 feet is worth the trip. Hands down the best thing in this country is the Uyuni Salt Flats. Stunningly beautiful and indescribable . Reaching the highest altitude I have ever been at was worth it for the views, even though I was sick for a couple of days. Read more about our ten day tour and all we did here. Go to Bolivia!
AFRICA
The continent of Africa is huge, and incredibly diverse. Each of the 54 nations that make up Africa have their own cultures, foods, geology, history, language and people. No two are alike, and it’s one of the reasons we have enjoyed visiting this continent on several occasions. I encourage you to travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries –
Namibia
Namibia
Why Go to Namibia
When we get the question “What is our favorite country?”, we often list off a dozen or so, and Namibia is always on that list. We had one of our most favorite travel experiences in Namibia. We hired a guide from Wild Wind Safaris to take us for ten days around this remarkably diverse country, and we loved every minute of it. From ocean to mountain to the best safari of our three, Namibia has it all. Learn about our Safari here. Learn about the rest of Namibia here.
Don’t Miss
Everything about Namibia was incredible. If you don’t have ten days though, do a shorter tour and don’t miss Etosha National Park (mind blown) and the astonishing Sossusvlei Dunes. Otherworldly.
Madagascar
Madagascar
Why Go to Madagascar?
Oh My Gosh – it is awesome. The people in Madagascar are generally very poor, but they are also the hardest working people I have ever met. Other than in the very large and crowded capital city of Antananarivo, we felt so safe and welcome. The reason to visit Madagascar is for the incredible nature and wildlife – particularly the lemurs, found nowhere else in the world. We did a private tour (there are so many tour companies to choose from) and really felt we saw a lot of the country in ten days. However, there is much we didn’t see, and I would love to go back. Read here about why I am Mad about Madagascar.
Don’t Miss
Most tours will take you on generally the same route. You definitely want to see Avenue of the Baobabs (also called Baobab Alley), and lemurs, lemurs, lemurs! I had no idea there were so many different kinds. I also LOVED all the chameleons, and others: lizards, insects, butterflies and birds. Be sure and have your guide take you on a night walk – fascinating!
ASIA
Central, East and SE Asia all have a wide variety of culture and people, and the food is also incredible everywhere you go. I loved Vietnam and Japan and Indonesia but I encourage you to step out of the box and consider:
The Stans
The Stans
Why Go to the Stan Countries
Okay so what are The Stans? When I refer to The Stans I am talking about the five Central Asian nations of Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. We visited all five of these countries on a 28 day tour with Intrepid travel last fall. I LOVED IT! I was worried about a 28 day tour but Intrepid is so great, our guide was incredible and each of these countries offered all that I dream of in a destination. History, culture, nature, beauty, food….and so much more. Did I have a favorite? Nope. But Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan definitely stand out.
Don’t Miss
The incredible cities of Samarkand and Khiva in Uzbekistan. The night market in Khujand, Tajikistan. Hiking Charyn Canyon and Issyk Lake in Kazakstan, Skazka Canyon and eagle hunting in Kyrgyzstan. Check out Intrepid’s tours to this remarkable region of Asia. I can’t say enough good things about the experience.
Borneo
Borneo
Why Go to Borneo
We made a quick visit to Borneo from Malaysia (where we spent a month) specifically to see the endangered orangutans. We stayed at the incredible Sepilok Forest Edge Resort, right next door to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center. Not a zoo but a place for endangered orangutans to come, at their own free will, to get additional and much needed nourishment. Seeing these creatures, not behind fences, but walking around the wild was so astonishing. I loved it so much.
Don’t Miss
Don’t miss the Sepilok Orangutan Center, and the nearby Labak Bay Proboscis Monkey Reserve. Both incredible. I highly recommend staying at the Sepilok Forest Edge Resort, and if it’s the season, sign up for an evening firefly boat ride.
Philippines
Philippines
Why Go to the Philippines
I have to say, our month on the Philippine island of Panglao was one of the most unexpectedly pleasant places we have been anywhere in the world. It was our first time in the Philippines, and we really had no expectations. What we found was sunshine, inexpensive restaurants, kind people, beautiful beaches and THOUSANDS of scooters.
Don’t Miss
One of our most astonishing days on Bohol was visiting the Philippine Tarsier Foundation Sanctuary and getting up close and personal with the endangered, fascinating and teeny Tarsier. Our other absolutely do-not-miss thing is snorkeling with a guide off of Napaling Reef on the NW side of Panglao. One of my favorite snorkeling experiences ever.
OCEANIA & SOUTH PACIFIC
Sometimes overlooked and misunderstood, this vast area of 14 island nations is difficult to get to, thus less touristed. But so worth it. Australia and New Zealand, two of our favorite countries, are totally worth visiting. And many people do visit, despite how difficult they are to reach. Although we are not planning to see all of the islands in this region, we do hope to visit a few more in the years ahead. So beyond Australia and New Zealand you should consider something completely different;
French Polynesia
French Polynesia
Why Go to French Polynesia
Often mistakenly referred to as Tahiti, the island nation of French Polynesia is made up of 118 islands, one of which is Tahiti. We spent seven weeks on the island of Moorea, with a quick three days on Bora Bora. I loved the laid back island vibe of Moorea, even though there isn’t much going on. We hiked, snorkeled, relaxed, ate great seafood and loved every day. Moorea is a big dive destination too.
Don’t Miss
Moorea can be reached by ferry from Papeete, Tahiti where the international airport is. But to access other islands there is also a small airport on Moorea. We loved our food tour, learning about the unique local cuisine, a mix of many immigrants and islanders. I also took two cooking classes with CookLab Cooking School, and we loved a day trip to Coco Beach.
Papua New Guinea
Papua New Guinea
Why Go to Papua New Guinea
A caveat. This country is not for everyone. It was not a pleasure cruise. Papua New Guinea has lots of issues from crime to poor water and bad infrastructure. But, it also has one of the most ancient cultures still remaining on this planet. It was eye-opening to attend the annual Goroka Festival, where more than 100 tribes descend to spend a weekend dancing and celebrating in their native costume. I will never forget it.
Don’t Miss
The Goroka Festival. Hands down one of the most incredible cultural experiences of my life. Village visit – make sure you have a tour that will take you into the villages to see this ancient way of life on this remote island. Our tour also included some amazing bird watching excursions – and we saw the elusive bird of paradise. It’s far from five-star hotels and first class dining, but it will make you a better person.
Travel to These Unexpectedly Amazing Countries
“We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.” – Unknown.
We have worked hard, given up a lot, but have no regrets about the travel life we have created. I know some of the places we visit are not for everyone. But I implore you to consider travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries. Choose wisely in this time of both political and travel unrest. Be courteous and kind to host countries, and be aware of the impact you are making. The world is huge. There are so many undiscovered places to visit, many without millions of other tourists crowding the sites and restaurants. Be an explorer not a tourist. Just go.
PLEASE NOTE – we are heading out for the first of two North American road trips this summer. I will be posting regularly on Instagram but will not have a blog post on Friday for a few weeks. Wednesday Book Reviews will continue. Follow us on Instagram here.
We love it when you save, pin, share and comment on our posts. Thank you.
I absolutely love writing this blog post each year. Throughout the year I think about what experiences and places might make this list. And when it’s time to write – it’s a fun walk down memory lane as I reminisce about the previous year of travel. Maybe I can inspire you to travel to some of these places. I know for a fact several of my followers are planning visits to Australia … which was our favorite country from 2023! I hope it’s fun for you to read and enjoy the awards we bestow on our favorites and the best of the best (and a few duds too) from our year of travel; the Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024.
The Acropolis on a rainy night
We are now into our ninth year of travel as part of The Grand Adventure. What a remarkable ride it has been. Not sure exactly what the next few years will bring…but it’s already open for discussion.
2024
What an incredible year. We have had a wonderful year of travel; both long stays and short, independent travel and guided. Though we prefer longer stays (and we had some good ones) this year included more short stays than in the past. This resulted in the greatest number of countries ever – TWENTY FOUR! The list includes; Thailand, Singapore, Italy, San Marino, Spain, Andorra, Greece, Albania, North Macedonia, Serbia, Austria, Slovakia, Madagascar, USA, Armenia, France, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, United Arab Emirates.
Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan
Destinations – 24 Countries & 2 US States
Favorite Country – Madagascar
The wildlife in Madagascar blew my mind
I never imagined Madagascar would be my favorite country of this travel year. But we were astonished and enchanted by the beauty, the wildlife and the people. Madagascar had been on our bucket list for a very long time, and it was worth the wait.
Favorite City – a tie between Athens Greece and Vienna Austria
Athens
Vienna
With so many destinations it really is hard this year to choose one favorite, and these two cities charmed us. We returned to Athens after having a poor experience the first time and I am so glad we did. It is remarkable. And Vienna with its astonishing beauty is definitely one I hope to visit again.
Favorite Town – Khiva Uzbekistan and Alberobello Italy
Khiva Uzbekistan
Alberobello, Italy
For overall history, beauty and unique experiences these two lovely towns, though very different from each other, were our two favorites of the year. Khiva Uzbekistan and Alberobello Italy
Favorite Island – Crete Greece and Honorable Mention to Sicily Italy
Crete
Sicily
My husband and I discussed this category in depth and finally settled on Crete with an Honorable Mention to lovely Sicily. We had long stays on both, during off season in both, which gave us a great opportunity to experience the heart of these remarkably unique places. We would love to return.
Most Expensive Country – Austria
Vienna Austria
We only visited Vienna on our six days in Austria, but Vienna is expensive. Despite staying a bit outside of the historic core, our hotel was expensive. And despite loving all the food we enjoyed, it too was very expensive. But this city is worth a visit, no matter what.
Least Expensive Country – Thailand
For budget travelers, Thailand is the place
We spent a month on the island of Koh Chang, doing very little. We didn’t love our Airbnb, but it was comfortable enough and cheap. However it was so far away from anything including a supermarket or even a restaurant, we had little reason to spend any money during our month long stay.
Accommodations
More hotels than in past years but also several Airbnb’s, and some wonderful yurts!
Favorite Airbnb – Crete Greece
Restored Historic Airbnb in Crete
We loved this big beautiful stone house with swimming pool we rented with friends in Chania on the island of Crete. A restored historic home was perfect for a group. Another smaller unit next door we might consider in the future.
Favorite Hotel – Singapore
Comfortable, clean and affordable Singapore Oasia Hotel
We stayed in ALOT of hotels this year (35), it’s hard to even remember them all. But we chose the Oasia Hotel in Singapore as our favorite. In fact we just booked that same hotel again for next March. The best thing about this hotel was it was affordable, in a city that can break the bank, and the staff was great, room was comfortable and the location was excellent. I’m sure this will be our go-to for layovers in Singapore from here on.
Best Airbnb for Service – Yerevan Armenia
Yerevan Airbnb
Some Airbnb’s you never hear from your hosts, while others are helpful and kind. We had several exceptional hosts this year, but we give this award to our host David in Yerevan Armenia. When we were in a car accident (see more about that below) he made sure we got to a hospital, served as our interpreter and would not accept any compensation for giving up his Sunday to assist us. It’s rare we have emergencies like this, but we are forever grateful to kind people like David.
David never left our side at the Emergency Room
Most Expensive Airbnb – Chania Crete
A caveat is needed here – This Airbnb was three bedrooms with a pool and we shared the cost with two other couples. It was beautiful too and we loved our stay at $174 per night.
We loved this place in Crete I would like to go back.
Least Expensive Airbnb – Baku Azerbijan
The view from our Baku Apartment
Although it smelled of cigarette smoke, our older apartment in Baku also came with an amazing view – for only $35 a night.
Best View – Koh Chang Thailand
That view
Although we had some issues with this property and the host, we gotta say the view was unparalleled.
Most Unique Accommodations – Kyrgyzstan
Biggest Yurt ever is where we had our meals
Our tour through the Five Stans had us staying in hotels, home stays and yurts, and our favorite was the Almaluu Yurt Village in IssyKuhl Lake, Kyrgyzstan. Comfy and warm, the unique and historic style of nomadic housing is beautiful and functional and now I want one for my own!
Food & Drink
Favorite Cuisine – Sicily and Georgia
Sicily is all about the freshest ingredients
Kachapuri is Georgia’s national dish. So good!
Vastly different, the cuisine of these two unique places were amazing. Sicilian food (don’t call it Italian) is fresh and full of flavor and the Sicilians are so incredibly proud of their food. In Georgia we were astonished to stumble on the unique and flavorful cuisine influenced over a thousand years by travelers along the Silk Road.
Best Food Tour – Bologna Italy & T’bilisi Georgia
Not the Bologna of your childhood.
Kinkali dumplings in Georgia
Again it’s a tie. We do a lot of food tours. The best ones include unique hidden places, tidbits of history and insider knowledge, served up with a knowledgeable and humorous guide. I highly recommend both of these tours if you visit Bologna and Tours and the City or T’bilisi with Culinary Backstreets.
Best Cooking Class – Crete Greece and Honorable Mention Koh Chang Thailand
The Crete class was amazing, a family affair in a beautiful new cooking space. With our friends we were welcomed by the family at Veerna’s Kitchen and enjoyed a marvelous experience. We also had a tasty and fun day with Bunny at her Napalai Thai Cooking School in Koh Chang Thailand.
Outdoor oven at Veerna’s Cooking School, Crete
Delicious foods at Napalai Cooking School Koh Chang Thailand
Best Meal – Mother Wolf Las Vegas Nevada USA
Best meal of the year, surprisingly in Las Vegas
We spent a few days in Las Vegas in June, specifically to attend a concert of my husband’s favorite artist Elvis Costello. We were traveling with another couple, and before the concert we enjoyed one of the best meals I have ever had at beautiful restaurant called Mother Wolf. If you visit Las Vegas you must eat there.
Most Unique Food – Tajikistan
Qurutob – delicious
I bet you never heard of Qurutob. I sure hadn’t. But it is the national dish of Tajikistan and it is an acquired taste; dried sour yogurt is rehydrated and mixed with a delicious selection of grilled vegetables, bread and meat. We loved it!
Best Beer – Samarkand Uzbekistan
Sam Craft in Samarkand Uzbekistan
One of our free evenings in Samarkand we went looking for a micro brew pub. My husband has an internal radar for micro brew pubs. And we found Sam Craft. It was worth the search on a rainy night.
Best Wine – T’bilisi Georgia
I tried a lot of wine in T’bilisi. Here enjoying several on my food tour.
I learned while in Georgia that this country is considered the earliest place where wine was made, based on 8000 year old findings of wine making. The Georgian people take this very seriously, and all the wine we had was excellent. Back in the USA we looked for and found some places to purchase delicious Georgian wine…it is now part of our wine cellar.
Culture
Most Authentic Cultural Experience – Kyrgyzstan
Master Eagle Hunter Kyrgyzstan
Yurt Making – not many artisans left. This family welcomed us into their home to learn how it’s done.
We only had four days in Kyrgyzstan, but it was some of the most memorable days of my travels. And two authentic cultural experiences happened on the same day; spending time with a Master Eagle Hunter and a Yurt Building Family. Both these occupations are UNESCO Cultural protected ancient activities. I feel so blessed to have had this opportunity with these people.
Most Amazing Man Made Structure – Matera Italy
Matera Italy was mind blowing – I had never heard of this place that dates back to the Paleolithic period
How to choose the winner when we visited Rome, Barcelona, Athens and amazing Uzbekistan? But we decided on one of the most unique places we have ever seen, an unexpected and new to us city of cave dwellings from thousands of years ago…the remarkable city of Matera. With a history of continuous occupation dating back to the Paleolithic (10th millennium BC), it is renowned for its rock-cut urban core, whose twin cliff side zones are known collectively as the Sassi. If you go to Italy – it’s a must.
Most Incredible Natural Sight – Baobab Alley Madagascar
Remarkable place
I had been dreaming about seeing this place with my own eyes for years….and I was not disappointed. Nature is so amazing. Grateful that Madagascar has protected the Baobab trees.
Best Gardens – Schonbrunn Palace Vienna Austria
The gardens at Schonbrunn Palace
Well the incredible mansion/ Palace (Castle?) of the Hapsburg Dynasty just outside of Vienna was astonishing in itself, but the gardens…Wow. Hands down my favorite of all the gardens we saw this year.
Best Market – Khujand Market Tajikistan and Chorsu Market Tashkent Uzbekistan
This is only one part (the meat part) of Chorsu Market in Tashkent Uzbekistan
I loved this market in Khujand Tajikistan
If you read my blog posts much you know that a good, authentic market is possibly my favorite thing to do in any place we visit. And both of these, Chorsu in Uzbekistan and Khujand Tajikistan were all about the locals finding what they need from meat to produce to cheese and even clothing and shoes. It was perfect.
Best Museum – Azerbaijan Carpet Museum Baku Azerbaijan, Honorable Mention Belvedere Vienna Austria
Hand tying a beautiful wool carpet
The building is designed to look like a rolled up carpet.
We visited dozens of museums over the past year. So it was very hard to pick even two in this category. We considered everything from the amazing Acropolis Museum in Athens to the Gangster Museum in Las Vegas. But our choice for the top two are the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum and the Belvedere Art Museum in Vienna. Though very different both house incredible works of art and are housed in magnificent architecturally unique building.
The exterior at the Belvedere
The Kiss by Gustav Klimt at the Belvedere
Best Walking Tour – Chania Crete & Night tour Baku Azerbaijan
Chania Crete
Baku Azerbaijan
We arrived in both Chania and Baku with not a lot of knowledge about the history (both recent and ancient) of either place. A good walking tour is always helpful in these situations. In Chania our group of six hired a guide who was born and raised in the town, was funny and informative and spoke excellent English. In Baku we did a night tour with five other “new” friends – the city absolutely sparkled at night and we learned some amazing history we would have completely missed without this excellent tour and guide.
Best Overall Historical Site – Athens Greece
Hadrian’s Library
We are so glad we returned to Athens for a longer visit after having a awful one day tour off a cruise ship decades ago. This time we explored this amazing city and all it has from top to bottom. It really is a remarkable place.
Best Performance – Spanish Riding School Vienna Austria and Honorable Mention Elvis Costello Las Vegas Nevada
I did not realize what we were getting into when we went to the Spanish Riding School performance in Vienna but it was unlike any horse performance anywhere in the world. Astonishing. And a wonderful concert in Las Vegas with Elvis Costello deserves an honorable mention.
I have never seen anything like the Spanish Riding School performance in Vienna
Elvis Costello still rocking after all these years
Best One Day Tour – Georgia
Georgia was incredible – this is Gergeti Trinity Church
In T’bilisi we hired a guide to take us to the Gudauri region, several hours outside the city and near the Russian border. This is a popular ski area, and also popular for tourists to hike and enjoy waterfalls and to visit the famous Gergeti Trinity Church. We lucked out with gorgeous weather on our visit…only a week later they got their first snow.
Best Multi-Day Tour – The Five Stans Intrepid Travel
Uzbekistan
After postponing this trip a few times due to the PanDamit, it finally happened for us in 2024. A 28 day tour. We were hesitant if 28 days and five countries would be too much. But thankfully Intrepid Travel made this an exceptional experience with very few bumps along the way. This was our second time using Intrepid and I think they have my loyalty.
Kazakhstan
Best Tour Guide – Svetlana with Intrepid Travel
With Svetlana in Kyrgyzstan
One of the reasons Intrepid has our loyalty is they know what makes a good guide. Patient, smart, empathetic, funny and able to function on no sleep! Our guide in the Stans was Svetlana and she was absolutely remarkable.
Nature
Best Sunrise – Koh Chang Thailand
Koh Chang Sunrise
Every morning with my coffee. It was the best thing about this Airbnb.
Best Sunset – Madagascar
Baobab Alley at sunset
A dream come true in Madagascar being here at sunset.
Best Hike – Zingaro Natural Reserve Sicily and Mount Rainier Washington State
Zingaro Nature Reserve was a short drive from our Airbnb in Scopello Sicily
My favorite place in the world, Mount Rainier National Park, Washington State USA
We hike ALOT – around the world and at home in Washington State. Our favorites this year were very diverse, stunning and inspiring.
Overall Natural Beauty – Madagascar
Hidden treasure everywhere
Madagascar blew my mind. What a place.
Best Wildlife – Madagascar
There just aren’t enough words to adequately describe the wildlife of Madagascar. Photos help.
Chameleons and other reptiles where so beautiful but often camoflaged
Lemurs of all kinds
So beautiful
How beautiful is that?
Best Bird Watching – Madagascar
We have become very interested in birds over the last few years…but even with this interest we never gave much thought to where birds sleep. Or how they sleep. In Madagascar we had the remarkable experience of doing a night walking tour and seeing birds sleeping. And lots of other amazing birds too.
Though we had a lot of rain during February in Sicily we got out and ran the dirt roads on the small peninsula where our cute Airbnb was. Rarely saw a car or another human.
Best Pool or Spa – Caldea Spa Andorra
Well that was a fun day at Caldea Spa in Andorra
We spent two short days in the tiny country of Andorra that straddles France and Spain. Our favorite thing we did was enjoy a full day at the famous Caldea Spa.
Weather
Hottest Day – Madagascar
It was great to get out on the water on this extreme hot and dry day
Most Humid – Thailand
Some days the humidity was oppressive
Coldest Day – Border Crossing between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan
Icy cold wind greeted us as we crossed the border on foot between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan
Wettest Day – Bologna Italy
It was raining buckets but luckily Bologna’s famous porticoes kept us mostly dry
Windiest – Athens Greece and San Marino
We nearly blew off the mountain top of tiny San Marino
There were people up here in shorts and tshirt…terribly unprepared and turning blue.
Travel
Longest Travel Day – Koh Chang Thailand to Bologna Italy
Tiny Trat Airport
Thirty four hours door to door – this day included a van, a ferry, three flights and a taxi. A total distance of 5971 miles. Thank goodness we have airport lounge privileges. Our longest single flight was Dubai to Seattle at 7410 miles; but a mere 18 hours door to door.
Shortest Flight – Trat to Bangkok
A quick flight covering 161 miles go us close to our destination of Koh Chang, but we also had to take a ferry.
Best Airport – Changi Singapore
Its worth it to visit Singapore just to see this airport.
One of the best and most beautiful airports in the world – Changi Singapore
Worst Airport – Morondava Madagascar
This place wasn’t the smallest airport we have ever been in, but it nearly was. Departure board was a white board written in colored marker
Miscellaneous
Expensive But Worth It – Five Stans Tour with Intrepid Travel
Of course a 28 day tour covering five countries isn’t going to be cheap. We had cars, planes, trains, vans, subways, all of our lodging, much of our food and the most amazing guide included in Intrepid Travels Five Stans Tour. For two people the cost was $13,530 dollars – just under $500 per day. I don’t regret it.
Each Country was amazing. This is Kyrgyzstan
This is Turkmenistan
The Ouch Award – Car Crash in Yerevan Armenia
It doesn’t look that serious. And it would not have been if we had been wearing seat belts.
A difficult lesson was learned when we got into a taxi that did not have seat belts. It wasn’t the first time in our travels where we have encountered this. We should have refused…but we didn’t and five minutes later the crazy driver crashed. At first we thought we were okay, just shaken. But the next day Arne had some serious and frightening symptoms. A trip to the emergency room where he was diagnosed with a concussion. He did not have to stay in the hospital but he did have to lay low for the following two weeks, causing us to change our itinerary to give him time to recover before we began the Stans tour. We are very grateful it wasn’t worse. Seat belts. Always.
Best Photo of the Year
With 24 countries its hard to choose which photo is the best….not to mention I am obsessive about photo taking. But for 2024 we choose these – a collection of Baobab Alley Madagascar. Seeing this was a lifelong dream of mine. And it was just as amazing as I had imagined.
Baobab Alley
Wildflowers Baobab Alley
Sunset at Baobab Alley
Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024
There you have it. The best of the best of My Fab Fifties Life travel of 2024. Amazing, memorable and unique experiences with new cultures and fantastic experiences around the world. What a grand adventure it is. We sure hope you will consider visiting some of these places and enjoying some of these unique experiences too – the eighth annual world travel awards 2024. Please let us know if you do visit any of our suggestions.
High above Bovilla Reservoir in Albania. That road to get here was interesting.
What next?
As I post this annual awards I am on the island of Maui – the first stop of our 2025 adventure. Over the next year we will visit anywhere from 8-12 more countries. Those include the Cook Islands, Australia, Singapore, Bhutan, France, Luxembourg, USA and Canada – with others still in the works.
Friendly and docile chameleons are my new favorite
It takes me weeks to write this post so I hope you have enjoyed the Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024. My goal is to inspire you. The world is so amazing…not everyone is going to want to go to places like Kyrgyzstan. I understand that. But I hope you have learned something and perhaps are motivated to step beyond your comfort zone. We hope you will continue to follow us around the globe, comment, pin and share this post so others can follow as well. Thank you and stay fabulous. This travel blog wouldn’t be possible without all of you.
Beautiful memorial in Novi Sad Serbia remembering the 4000 civilians murdered by the Hungarian forces during WWII
More From the Past
If you would like to see our Travel Awards from the past, you can click on any of these links; 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020, 2019, 2018, and 2017.
HAPPY NEW YEAR OF TRAVEL!!! We appreciate it when you comment, share and pin our blog posts – especially this one!! The Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024. Stay tuned! Lots of adventures ahead! Thank you.
I always like to look back and see which of my blog posts were most popular at the end of each year. There are several different ways I can see what my followers are loving the most. I admit I am not very good at following my blog analytics religiously like most bloggers…so it’s always like a little gift when I go and see what you all loved and were most interested in. Today let me share with you what my Top Travel Blog Posts of 2024 were.
My readers also enjoyed the three posts I wrote about the Caucasus region; Yerevan Armenia, Tbilisi Georgia and your most favorite of these Baku Azerbaijan . This is a fascinating area in eastern Europe and I hope my experiences opened your eyes to a wonderful collection of destinations.
Click on any of the links to read them again or for the very first time.
Bologna Italy
Australia
We love Australia and are heading back for our third visit soon, and one of our favorite places was the sweet town of Hobart on the Tasmania island. You all enjoyed reading about that too, Hobart Tasmania The Most Surprising Town in Australia. I would go back to Hobart for an another visit, and would stay even longer.
Hobart Tasmania
Pacific Northwest
Our summer in the Pacific Northwest usually provides me wonderful material for blog posts, and this year you really loved Tracking Trolls in the Pacific Northwest – this post was so popular! If you haven’t seen the trolls yet…check out the link.
The Bird King, by Thomas Dambo, Vashon Island Washington State
My Fab Fifties Life
There you have it, the Top Travel Blog Posts of 2024. My blog has taken on a life of its own over the years, thanks to all the loyal readers. I’m glad our travel life (and book reviews too) give you entertainment, inspiration and educate you about this big beautiful world. I hope you will continue to follow us. Coming up next week our itinerary for our next adventures and don’t miss our Annual Travel Awards blog that will drop January 24th.
See last week’s post about Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan and come back next week for our upcoming travel itinerary 2025.
Wow. Baku was just Wow. A surprisingly modern city, full of culture and color – we really enjoyed our week-long visit to Baku, Azerbaijan. Let’s talk about it.
Where Am I?
We flew from Tbilisi, Georgia to Baku, Azerbaijan on Azerbaijan airlines. It was an easy one hour flight. We hired a car to take us to our Airbnb located just a few blocks from the old city. Although I didn’t love this Airbnb (smelled like cigarettes), I did love both the location and the view.
View of the Flaming Towers from our Airbnb
Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, sits on the Caspian Sea. This was my first glimpse of the immense and blue Caspian.
The Caspian is the world’s largest inland body of water, often described as the world’s largest lake and sometimes referred to as a full-fledged sea. It has a salinity of approximately 1.2% (12 g/L), about a third of the salinity of average seawater. It is bounded by Kazakhstan to the northeast, Russia to the northwest, Azerbaijan to the southwest, Iran to the south, and Turkmenistan to the southeast.
First look at the Caspian Sea
The sea stretches 1,200 km (750 mi) from north to south, with an average width of 320 km (200 mi). Its gross coverage is 386,400 km2 (149,200 sq mi) and the surface is about 27 m (89 ft) below sea level. Its main freshwater inflow, Europe’s longest river, the Volga, enters at the shallow north end. (Wikipedia)
Where is Azerbaijan?
Azerbaijan has no diplomatic relations with Armenia to its west, but has good relations with its other neighbors Russia, Georgia and Iran.
Fabulous Architecture all over Baku
A Little History
Azerbaijan, located at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, has a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was inhabited by various tribes, including the Medes and Persians, and later became part of the Achaemenid Empire. Throughout the centuries, Azerbaijan was influenced by various cultures and empires, including the Greeks, Romans, and Arabs. In the early Middle Ages, it became a center of Islamic culture and learning. The Seljuk Turks and later the Safavid dynasty played significant roles in shaping the region’s political and cultural landscape, with Tabriz emerging as a prominent cultural hub.
The Main Gate to the ancient Old Town
In the 19th century, Azerbaijan fell under Russian control following the Russo-Persian Wars, leading to significant societal changes and the emergence of a national identity. The early 20th century saw the brief establishment of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic in 1918, which was the first secular democratic republic in the Muslim world. However, this independence was short-lived, as Azerbaijan was incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920. During the Soviet era, Azerbaijan underwent industrialization and urbanization, but it also faced repression. The country regained its independence in 1991 following the collapse of the Soviet Union. Since then, Azerbaijan has navigated challenges related to its territorial disputes, particularly with Armenia over Nagorno-Karabakh, while seeking to establish itself as a significant player in the region’s energy and political landscape.
Beautifully restored Old Town
The Bad
As an American who believes in democracy and human rights, the current authoritarian government of Azerbaijan is disturbing. I was careful not to criticize or comment on the ruling party while in the country.
As of 2023, Azerbaijan’s political climate is characterized by a centralized and authoritarian governance structure, with a strong emphasis on stability and control by the ruling party. President Ilham Aliyev, who has been in power since 2003 following the death of his father, Heydar Aliyev, leads a government that is often criticized for suppressing dissent, limiting political freedoms, and curtailing media independence. Political opposition is fragmented and faces significant challenges, including imprisonment of opposition leaders and activists, which has raised concerns among international human rights organizations.
Old and New in Baku
The political landscape is further complicated by ongoing territorial disputes, particularly with Armenia over the Nagorno-Karabakh region. Following a brief war in 2020, Azerbaijan regained control over significant territories in the region, which has fostered a sense of nationalism and pride among many Azerbaijanis. However, the government also faces challenges related to economic diversification, corruption, and social inequality. While the country has substantial oil and gas resources that contribute to its economy, there is an increasing call for political reforms and greater transparency in governance, especially from civil society and younger generations seeking more democratic governance. Overall, Azerbaijan’s political climate remains tightly controlled, with the government prioritizing stability and territorial integrity over political pluralism and civil liberties.
The military forceful take over of Nagorno-Karabakh has caused tension with the United Nations and European Union. Calls for a renegotiation of the relationship with Azerbaijan are under review.
The Good
Despite the government structure, there is progressive religious freedom in Azerbaijan with a secular system that welcomes all religions, though the majority of the population is Muslim. Additionally, despite its oil wealth, Azerbaijan has a progressive alternative energy plan expanding its support and use of solar and wind energy.
Architecture is very unique and playful and the local government in Baku has invested heavily in interesting and fun designs that contrast in a lovely way with the historic and ancient parts of the city. We enjoyed all of that very much.
Night view of Baku and the Caspian Sea
A visitor can travel to Azerbaijan very inexpensively. Enjoying a delicious meal and drinks throughout the city of Baku was only about $20 USD for two. Gas prices are about $2.60 USD per gallon. Entrance prices to museums is also inexpensive. Azerbaijanis earn about $750 USD per month, higher in the city.
The Beautiful
Despite the country’s wealth being controlled by one ruling family, investment in Baku is apparent with beautiful museums and architecture – much of it government funded. From our Airbnb we enjoyed the view of the Flaming Towers, a mixed use but nearly unoccupied set of three buildings beautiful both day and night.
Flaming Towers changed throughout the evening every night
Ancient Old City
We did a self-guided walk of the walled old city, which was conveniently about three blocks from our Airbnb.
Shirvanshah’s Palace in the Old Town was definitely one of my favorites
The Inner City (Icheri Sheher) has preserved much of its 12th-century defensive walls. The 12th-century Maiden Tower (Giz Galasy) is built over earlier structures dating from the 7th to 6th centuries BC, and the 15th-century Shirvanshahs’ Palace is one of the pearls of Azerbaijan’s architecture. (Wikipedia)
The Old Town full of hidden treasures
We spent one full day exploring the ancient old city and this is also where we ate some of our favorite meals (see more on that below).
Museums
Baku has a surprising number of museums. We did not visit all of them but during our weeklong visit we did visit four including the tiny book museum and the National History Museum. My two favorites however where the Carpet Museum and the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center (named after the former President).
There are a few museums and sights further out of the city, but while Arne continued his recovery from the car accident, we chose to stay close to Baku during our visit.
Named for Azerbaijan’s first President, the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center was jaw dropping. Both the architecture and the exhibits inside.
Carpet display at the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center
The architecture of the Carpet Museum is designed to look like a rolled up carpet.
In addition to historic and modern day carpet display and information, the museum had several women working on hand-tied carpets.
The National History Museum provided a chronological look at the history of the region for thousands of years.
Traditional costumes in the National History Museum
Entertainment
We really enjoyed visiting the Shirvanshah Museum restaurant (puzzlingly, not associated with or anywhere near the Shirvanshah Museum!) to watch evening dance performance with our dinner. This is a very popular and gigantic restaurant, locals love it for events and family gatherings. It’s also a bit touristy and we had better food elsewhere, but we still enjoyed it.
Traditional dance and music at Shirvanshah Museum restaurant
A stewed chicken and rice dish at Shirvanshah Museum restaurant was very good
On our final night in Baku we enjoyed a lovely dinner then proceeded to the Baku Marionette Theater for a special show by talented local marionette performers. We were so happy we decided to do that.
Such a well done performance
Talented cast at the Baku Marionette Theatre
Architecture
Because of the beautiful architecture throughout the city, we decided to do a guided night tour to enjoy this gorgeous city aglow. We booked the tour through Viator. Our guide was excellent with an expansive knowledge of the city. We enjoyed a gondola ride to the hill that gave us a birds-eye view of the sparkling and cosmopolitan metropolis. We also visited a beautiful mosque and the eternal flame and memorial to the victims who died in Black January. Also known as Black Saturday or the January Massacre, this was a violent crackdown on Azerbaijani nationalism and anti-Soviet sentiment in Baku on 19–20 January 1990, as part of a state of emergency during the dissolution of the Soviet Union
Eternal Flame overlooks the city
Crystal glove atop the Eternal Flame
High above the city on our night tour
Even the stairs glow
It’s a city of contrasts
And Then the Food
Of course I can’t ever write a blog post without talking about food. Azerbaijan did not disappoint and we enjoyed amazing food and wine in Baku. And inexpensive.
The cuisine is not dissimilar to the other Caucasus countries but also had its own tastes. One of the best things we enjoyed was plov – a delicious pilaf wrapped inside pastry. Once cut table side by the waiter, a warm and fragrant lamb stew is poured on top.
Plov was one of our favorites
Another favorite was piti. This lamb stew was mixed and served table side, and enjoyed with delicious flat bread used as your utensil to sop up all the tasty goodness. Really good.
Piti prepared table side
Kefti becha I enjoyed twice because it was so good. A slow wine braised chicken that was melt in your mouth.
Wine braised chicken
Yogurt soup, pickled vegetables, crispy eggplant and delicious soups and stews are abundant. Pomegranate and pumpkin also were used frequently. Many fresh breads, particularly flat bread were available for every meal as was cheese and fruit.
Yogurt Soup
Crispy Eggplant we ordered several times
Tea is the drink of choice in Azerbaijan. It was common to see groups of men in the afternoon enjoying a pot of tea together with small sweet snacks and fruits.
Tea with a view – I love these Samovar Tea Makers. I want one for home.
We did an afternoon tea service too. I really wanted to enjoy an authentic tea with the ancient coal-fired samovar keeping our tea hot at the table. When enjoying this tea you are offered multiple small sweets and cookies and jam. The jam is very sweet and abundant with large pieces of fruit. Popular jams are apricot, cherry, and plum.
Here is my YouTube video talking about how much we loved the foods of Baku.
YouTube Video about Azerbaijan Cuisine
Final Thoughts
Admittedly I came to Azerbaijan not knowing a lot about this nation or the city of Baku. We had a positive visit and enjoyed the locals we met, the museums and the architecture. We enjoyed the food and the price was right. I encourage people to visit this city, and if you have the time, you should venture further out to see more of the country than we did. Despite some political issues we felt very safe, very welcome and really enjoyed everything about our visit. We definitely came away with a much greater understanding of the three countries of the Caucasus region; Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan.
Very friendly locals
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Baku.
Thank you for reading my post Baku, Azerbaijan. See last week’s post about Tbilisi Georgia. I hope you will come next Friday for the first of my posts about our Five Stans tour – we begin with the kinda crazy country of Turkmenistan.
We love it when you pin, comment and share our blog posts. Thank you.
Welcome to the first of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Let’s begin with Yerevan Armenia.
Mother Armenia, Yerevan
Where Am I?
Yerevan, Armenia is not on everyone’s travel bucket list, but it was on mine after reading about it from another travel blogger several years ago. In fact we were scheduled for this trip when Covid shut the world down. So we were happy to finally get to the beautiful Caucasus region.
Armenia was the first of eight former Soviet states we would visit on this whirlwind trip. Over the past 8 plus years on the Grand Adventure, I have grown to really appreciate what it was like behind the Iron Curtain and why many people believe things were better for them during that time. Not all, but many people miss the security they enjoyed during the Soviet era.
Where is Armenia?
A Little History
Armenia, one of the oldest countries in the world, boasts a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was home to the Urartian Kingdom in the 9th century BCE, which laid the foundation for Armenian culture and identity. The Kingdom of Armenia was officially established in 301 CE when it became the first nation to adopt Christianity as its state religion, a pivotal moment that significantly influenced its cultural and social development. Throughout the centuries, Armenia faced numerous invasions and occupations, including those by the Persians, Romans, Byzantines, and later the Seljuks and Ottomans, which shaped its political landscape and often led to the displacement of its people.
Yerevan is known for it’s delicious water and free drinking fountains around the city.
Many ancient and beautiful monasteries survived the Soviet era
Learning about the Armenian Genocide was eye-opening for me. In the early 20th century, Armenia experienced one of the most tragic events in its history: the Armenian Genocide. Perpetrated by the Ottoman Empire during World War I, an estimated 1.5 million Armenians were extinguished. Why have I never heard about this?
Following the war, Armenia briefly declared independence in 1918 but was soon incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920, where it remained until the dissolution of the USSR in 1991.
Few people are aware of the horrific genocide the Armenian people suffered at the hands of the Ottoman Empire in the early 20th Century. Armenia’s relation with Turkey remains strained.
How’s it Going?
Since gaining independence 1991, Armenia has sought to rebuild its national identity and address the historical injustices faced by its people. The country is navigating complex geopolitical challenges, particularly its relationship with neighboring Turkey and Azerbaijan. Armenia is part of the EU’s Eastern Partnership since 2009. Today, Armenia is recognized for its rich cultural heritage, including its ancient churches and monasteries, and its ongoing efforts to establish itself as a modern nation-state in the South Caucasus region. The world-wide Armenian diaspora (about 10 million) create awareness around the world about this little known and beautiful region of our planet.
Monastery at Lake Sevan
As a visitor to Yerevan Armenia, we found most everything inexpensive from restaurants to tours and souvenirs. During our stay we ate delicious meals with drinks in Yerevan for less than $25 USD for two. Gas prices however, were about $5.30 gallon. The average monthly salary in Armenia is around $675 USD a month.
We even found a couple of craft breweries. Hubby happy.
The Good
Armenia is still working its way through issues from the past Soviet era, but the people we met seem happy with the direction of their country with some exceptions regarding education. In Yerevan (one of the oldest cities in the world) we had a great Airbnb with an engaged and friendly host. We did three tours; a history walking tour, a food walking tour and a cooking class and market tour. These were all private tours we booked through Viator, and we had excellent guides and experiences. All of our guides spoke great English and were enthusiastic about the future of their country.
Fun cooking class with a local
Walking tour we learned so many things including about the more than 115 drinking fountains around the city
Jengyalov Hac is one of the best things I have ever eaten. Without our guide we would never have known about this herb stuffed sandwich.
The Bad
Similar to our visit last spring to Albania and Serbia, the traffic was awful. It’s clear that the pace of automobile acquisition in Yerevan, Armenia after independence has outmatched that of infrastructure development. Drivers are aggressive, blaring horns constantly and the din can be annoying. Most drivers seem untrained with little regard for rules of the road. Case in point – we ordered a taxi on a rainy day. The taxi arrived and it was an old car, no seat belts and past it’s prime. In hindsight we should never have gotten in this vehicle. But we did. The driver was driving way too fast, in the wrong lane and swerved to miss a car. We crashed into a concrete barrier. Unfortunately, because we were not wearing seat belts, my husband hit is head hard on the ceiling and suffered a concussion.
Accident does not look bad, but our injuries were due to the fact we were not wearing seat belts. Despite rules for such safety features, we had little recourse.
Because of the concussion and my husband needing to rest, we ended up missing our all day tour outside of the city to Khor Virap and the Tatev Monastery. Even though I did not visit these places, I still recommend them if you have the chance. These are the top sights outside of Yerevan. It was disappointing but necessary for us to not travel on the day after our taxi accident.
Khor Virap (Canva) with Mount Ararat in the distance
Genocide
The Genocide is one of the worst things that has happened to the Armenian people, and it is something few people in the world know about. The Armenian genocide was the systematic destruction of the Armenian people and identity in the Ottoman Empire during World War I. Spearheaded by the ruling Committee of Union and Progress (CUP), it was implemented primarily through the mass murder of around one million Armenians during death marches to the Syrian Desert and the forced Islamization of others, primarily women and children. Today in Yerevan, this horrific period is remembered with an excellent Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum that is a must visit for everyone visiting Armenia.
Areminan Genocide Museum
Today Armenia has no diplomatic relations with neighboring Azerbaijan. There are no open border crossings which presents a problem for visitors navigating the Caucasus region. This is due to the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict – an ethnic and territorial dispute between Armenia and Azerbaijan. This is an ongoing issue, very volatile, with no negotiations in sight.
The Beautiful
Yerevan, Armenia has many beautiful sites. We enjoyed our time inside the city. Our favorite places included the giant statue of Mother Armenia, the view of Mount Ararat (Armenians believe it to be where Noah’s Ark is), the Yerevan Cascade Climb, Matenadaran Manuscript Library, Republic Square and the amazing Genocide Memorial and Museum. We spent several hours exploring the National Gallery of Armenia and the GUM Market (has nothing to do with chewing gum) and we recommend both.
Cascade Climb
Republic Square
Lake Sevan
The beautiful and kind people stood out. They were interested in us and welcoming. Like many of the countries we visit, we did not meet any other Americans. Most of the visitors are from Europe.
Unique and kind people
Genocide Memorial
National Gallery of Armenia
Mount Ararat on a cloudy day. Most of the mountain currently lies in Turkey and is one of Armenia’s border conflicts with that nation
A shout out to the local Emergency Room too. Our wonderful Airbnb host personally escorted us to the emergency room on a Sunday, stayed with us the entire time and translated for us. We would have been lost without him. Our ER visit with CatScan and prescriptions was $128.
We were lucky to have our Airbnb host help us at the hospital
Armenians are proud of their unique language and alphabet. The Armenian alphabet, created in 405 AD by the linguist and theologian Mesrop Mashtots, is a unique script that reflects the rich cultural and historical heritage of the Armenian people.
An outdoor exhibit explains the unique and ancient Armenian alphabet
Food Glorious Food
Our food tour and cooking class both provided us an eye-opening education to the cuisine of Armenia. We had amazing Khorovats – like a shishkebab grilled meat; dolma, vine leaf wrapped meat; ghapama (my favorite), a spectacular stuffed pumpkin or squash; gata – a sweet bread; pickles of every persuasion; jengyalov hac – an incredible herb filled flat bread wrap; and the famous lavash flat bread served at every meal.
Making lavish in the giant oven
Ghapama is a stuffed pumpkin meal
Here below is a link to our YouTube video about Armenian Food. Delicious.
Watch this video to learn more about the surprising cuisines of Armenia
Yerevan, Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful
Yerevan, Armenia was a perfect place to spend a week. Plenty of time to see many historical sites, museums and parks and to eat the great food. We really enjoyed the people, the architecture and the culture. We enjoyed learning about the Armenian Apostolic Church (97% of Armenians are Christian) founded 301 AD. Christianity is the official state religion.
Historic Yerevan Church
This tiny country packs a powerful punch. Yerevan is small and easy to maneuver. It is an up and coming destination you should have on your radar. I highly recommend it. Yerevan Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.
Bond Historic Neighborhood of Yerevan
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Yerevan.
We love it when you pin and share and comment about our posts. Be sure and come back next Friday for our post about Tbilisi Georgia.
Wow. Just wow. I am ignorant in the history of the Central Europe country of Georgia, even though my husband and I have it on our travel list soon. But this book, really opened my eyes to the former Soviet country, and the difficult transition it made after communism. Here is my book review Hard by a Great Forest by Leo Vardiashvili.
Tbilisi Georgia
Vardiashvili’s first novel is not a biography, although he, like the novels protagonist, fled Georgia in the early 1990’s for London as a young boy. The novel introduces us to Saba, his brother Sandro and his father Irakli, who fled Georgia together leaving their mother behind. The plan was to get the mother out as soon as enough money could be saved for her counterfeit papers to be bought.
But that never happens. London is harder than Irakli can manage. Barely earning enough to keep a roof over the heads of himself and his two boys. Years go by. Decades. Irakli threatens many times he is going back to get her. He never does. But then, he steps on the plane.
Disappearing
Irakli disappears. The last communication the boys get is “don’t follow.” Sandro flies to Tbilisi and also disappears. This leaves Saba, guilt ridden and afraid, in London. He has no one he can turn to in either London or Georgia. He takes the plunge, despite getting a warning at the airport from a stranger not to get on the plane, he does anyway.
Danger at Every Turn
Saba’s passport is confiscated at the airport. The first sign that he is being watched. Saba, exhausted with no plan, gets a taxi where he meets Nodar. Nodar will become his local guide, friend, and ultimately sacrifice himself for the cause of Saba and the corrupt and violent Georgia.
The novel is violent yet humorous. It keeps you on your toes throughout as Saba searches for his brother and his father and tries to understand this country that he fled. Most everyone he left behind is dead, but he encounters a few old “friends”, follows a poetic and cryptic trail of clues left by his brother, meets quietly supportive new friends who help him dodge police and harm.
In the end, he is left with unexpected results and feelings about Georgia and his life back in London.
Book Review Hard by a Great Forest by Leo Vardiashvili
I thought this was a great story. Intense. Raw. But I loved the commitment this young man has for his family. He grows in this book. I liked that. It’s not an easy book. It certainly made me even more interested in seeing and learning about Georgia in the near future.
*****Five stars for Hard by a Great Forest by Leo Vardiashvili. See last week’s book review Northwoods by Daniel Mason. We love it when you comment, pin and share our book reviews. Thank you.
This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish.AcceptRejectRead More
Privacy & Cookies Policy
Privacy Overview
This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.
Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.
