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The Elements

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review The Elements by John Boyne

    John Boyne is the author of 2 dozen books. I have read two; The Boy in the Stripped Pajamas and All the Broken Places. Boyne has had his share of controversy as well (read about it here), but I thought his latest novel, though disturbing, an amazing book. Here is my book review The Elements by John Boyne.

    Four Connecting Stories

    Unlike many novels that run parallel stories to further the plot, Boyne creates four seemingly separate stories in The Elements. But as the book builds so does the connections between the protagonists in the four stories. Through each story runs a theme…not a pleasant one. Often disturbing the book will look at abuse in ways I have never seen in a novel before.

    The Abuser and The Abused

    Boyne explores pedophilia and those who look the other way. He tackles incest and suicide. We will see a brilliant athlete, violently abused as a child, get involved in a rape and cover up. And a twist on abuse will be a female abuser of young boys, who uses her own horrific childhood tragedy to justify her actions. These stories are presented separately, but a thread of abuse and characters will connect the stories. Finally we will meet a single father raising a son, protecting him fiercely all while keeping his own secrets of his youth.

    Happy Ending?

    I wouldn’t call this a happy ending, so much as a bit of redemption for all the lives affected over generations of abuse. There is some happy moments in the end, but only when communication is opened up and truths are revealed.

    Though difficult and disturbing these are topics often swept under the rug, a practice that only creates more sorrow for victims. I thought the book was really well done, interesting and engaging, even with the sexual abuse story line. Thank you for reading my book review The Elements by John Boyne.

    *****Five stars for The Elements by John Boyne

    See last week’s book review Babel by R.F. Kuang

    We are always grateful when you pin, share and comment on our book reviews. Thank you!

    Reading Wednesday

    Ninth Annual (and Final) Reading Round Up 2026

    As you likely know if you have been following all these years, I track my reading year from July to July – why not be different from everyone else who tracks January to January? Nothing fancy, just keep a little tally in my notebook of all the books I read. This year I read 95 books, (eight more than last year) and the most I have ever read in one year. Due to my convalescing from total knee replacement, my book total is much higher than usual. Today I will share with you my favorites for the Ninth Annual (and Final) Reading Round Up 2026.

    In case you didn’t know, I am retiring the My Fab Fifties Blog at the end of 2026. I will retire the Reading Wednesday blog post today...with this being the final book review post. Over the past nine years I have written just short of 500 book reviews and read just under 900 books. I will continue to talk about books on my Instagram page. So if you have enjoyed these weekly book reviews for NINE YEARS please join us on Instagram. Here is the link.

    Over the past year I have written 53 book reviews, pulling into reviews my favorites of the 95 books. Most of my reading is done on my Kindle while traveling, and hardback and paperback when I am home in the summer. There is always an  Audible going when I am in the car too. I like Audible for car trips, a great way to be entertained on the road. I also found Audible very soothing right after my surgery when my focus wasn’t up to par.

    So as in the past several years, I’m sharing my most favorites from July ’25 to July ’26. Some outstanding novels, biographies, historical non-fiction, and memoirs. In past years I have shared a number one of the year. But this year, I just cant do it. I read so many impressive books this year, I just can’t chose. So for this final Reading Roundup I share my TOP FIVE (in order) and FIFTEEN more I highly recommend. So here we go, my Ninth Annual (And Final) Reading Round Up 2026;

    TOP FIVE

    The River is Waiting

    This book. Wow. I listened to this book and it truly blew me away. This is my first read by Wally Lamb, and he is brilliant. I haven’t read a book in a REALLY long time that gave me such a visceral reaction. Let me be honest with you. If you can get through the first chapter of this book, you will be rewarded with a rich, deep and heartbreaking personal story. Lamb has created a hero for our time in Corbin Ledbetter. I can’t stop thinking about this book, or this character. A sure sign of an exceptional read. 

    The Calamity Club

    Both funny and sad The Calamity Club takes a deep dive into Mississippi and the south in the 1930’s. The novel touches on homosexuality, promiscuity, orphanages, infidelity, race and the southern hierarchy of wealth and poverty. But mostly this book is about a women’s drive to survive. Women’s health, still today, is poorly studied or properly diagnosed and in 1933 Mississippi it was downright appalling.

    John of John

    The narrative in this book, so beautifully written, is above all else, about truth. A deep thread running through the novel is how difficult it can be, particularly in a small cutoff place, to become who you were meant to be. On this barren island old ways die hard. Religion is rigid. One of the last places where Gaelic is spoken and subsistence farming continues. How to be true to yourself when life is expected to only be a one certain way?

    Mad Mabel

    What happens when Australia’s youngest convicted murderer grows up to be a cantankerous old woman in a quiet Melbourne neighborhood? Hepworth’s wonderful novel is full of engaging characters and laugh out loud predicaments.

    Theo of Golden

    I was in a reading slump at the end of 2025, uninspired by nearly everything I tried to read. And then there was Theo. The feel good book of the year. The word heartfelt, though a bit cliché, is the best word to describe this beautiful story. I seriously found myself smiling through it…except for when I was sobbing. I have not read anything by Levi before, and this character driven novel is such a beautiful story.

    AND FIFTEEN MORE IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER

    So Far Gone by Jess Walters in a word REDEMPTION

    Broken Country by Claire Leslie Hall in a word SECRETS

    Wild Dark Shores by Charlotte McConaghy in a word GRIPPING

    My Friends Frederik Backman in a word HEARTBREAKING

    The Correspondent by Virginia Evans in a word GRIEF

    The Road to Tender Hearts by Annie Hartnet in a word HILARIOUS

    Buckeye by Patrick Ryan in a word GRIEF

    Heartwood by Amity Gaige in a word SURVIVAL

    The Names by Florence Knapp in a word CHOICES

    The Lincoln Moon by Michael Price Nelson in a word INFAMOUS

    Life & Death & Giants by Ron Rindo in a word MIRACLES

    Yesteryear by Caro Claire Burke in a word DISTURBING

    The Tortoise’s Tale by Kendra Coulter in a word OBSERVATIONS

    The Elements by John Boyne in a word ABUSED

    A Family Matter by Claire Lynch in a word SHAMEFUL

    Reading Roundup

    And with that, we wrap nine years and nearly 500 book reviews. It’s been a passion and a pleasure to write these book reviews (and travel posts). We will continue to write travel posts through January ’27, but here today the book reviews end.

    Please follow us on Instagram, where we will have book recommendations in a shorter, video format regularly. Thank you for your continued support all these years. It has been my greatest joy to provide this service, talk about books, and build a love of reading amongst my followers. The world would be kinder, smarter, more tolerant, understanding and interesting, if everyone would turn off their television and read.

    Yours,

    Laureen

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review Buckeye by Patrick Ryan

    In a small Ohio town over five decades, Ryan creates a unique and engaging cast of characters in Buckeye. I listened to this on on Audible on our long road trip in October. Here is my book review Buckeye by Patrick Ryan.

    Small Town Life

    A small farming community in Ohio is the setting for Buckeye, a story that spans two world wars and a depression. This tight knit community is home to Cal, whose one leg too short keeps him from enlisting in the war. His beautiful wife Betsy has a gift. She can communicate with people who have passed on. Cal doesn’t believe this gift is true, and as Betsy pursues helping people in the community to communicate with the dead, their relationship becomes strained.

    Margaret has a past secret. She is not the woman she claims to be, hiding her abandonment and the fact she grew up in an orphanage. She marries Felix, who also carries his own secret. Felix knows he is gay, and has had a couple of sexual encounters in his youth. But it’s not until he is drafted in WWII that he meets the love of his life.

    While Felix is away, and Betsy is busy with her clients, Cal and Margaret will find each other.

    Post War

    Margaret has been told Felix is missing in action, and she is ashamed that she is somewhat relieved. Margaret does not want children, and she has fallen in love with Cal. But an unexpected twist will change everything, causing Margaret to abandon her entire life, while Cal and Betsy try to pick up the pieces of their marriage.

    Empathy

    I had a lot of empathy for these characters in this book, particularly for Felix and his struggle with being a homosexual during this era. The book explores several important topics including abandonment, infidelity, grief and regret. Mostly regret.

    Book Review Buckeye by Patrick Ryan

    ****Four stars for Buckeye by Patrick Ryan. Thank you for reading my book review Buckeye by Patrick Ryan. See last week’s Book Review The Elements by John Boyne.

    We are grateful when you comment, pin and share our weekly book reviews. Thank you so much.

    At Home  --  North America Travel

    Hidden Gems of the PNW – Quincy Square Bremerton

    Quincy Square is a newly opened gathering space in the heart of downtown Bremerton, where I spent my childhood. Bremerton, like many downtown areas has struggled recently to stay viable. But Quincy Square is making a difference. Here is my post Hidden Gems of the PNW – Quincy Square Bremerton.

    Honoring the Legend Quincy Jones

    Beautiful Mural honoring Quincy Jones and his music

    Quincy Square was created to celebrate community, culture, and the legacy of legendary music producer and composer Quincy Jones. Located along 4th Street in the heart of Bremerton, the pedestrian-friendly plaza was designed as a cultural hub. Residents and visitors can gather for concerts, festivals, art displays, and community events. Jones spent part of his youth in Bremerton and often credits the city as the place where he discovered his passion for music. (Quincy Square)

    Quincy Square on a quiet day
    Many interactive things to do for young and old alike

    Challenges of Revitalization

    The development of Quincy Square transformed a section of downtown into an inviting public space featuring a permanent bandstand, public art installations, interpretive displays, seating areas, and music-inspired design elements. Envisioned as a key component of Bremerton’s Creative District, providing a central location for cultural programming and helping to strengthen connections between local businesses, artists, and community organizations. Public artworks, including a bronze sculpture and murals honoring Quincy Jones and others, contribute to the square’s unique identity.

    Historic Roxy Theater anchors Quincy Square

    Events

    Recently Bremerton did an outstanding job using the space to gather the community for the FIFA World Cup games. Quincy Square was home to the Kitsap Fan Zone, with an opening ceremony concert from Mike Herrara of MXPX, another locally raised musician. My family and I really enjoyed this event, the concert and the soccer on the giant screen. It was free, family friendly and fun to see how the community embraced it.

    Mike Herrara performs at the World Cup Fan Zone opening event
    The permanent stage features numerous events through the year
    Inside the historic Roxy Theater
    Enjoying a microbrew at Dog Days Brewing in Quincy Square

    Community

    By combining public art, music, and community engagement, Quincy Square has become a symbol of downtown Bremerton’s revitalization and a welcoming destination that celebrates the city’s diverse cultural heritage. The square honors numerous Black leaders from Bremerton, trailblazers for equality in the region. Quincy Square is about community both past and future and shines as an example of what can happen when people come together.

    Honoring some of Bremerton’s legends and Black leaders
    Heritage

    Learn more about events in downtown Bremerton here. Bremerton is located on the Kitsap Peninsula, a one hour ride on the Washington State Ferry from Seattle, or a 30 min ride on the Kitsap Transit Fast Ferry from Seattle. Thirty minutes from Tacoma via Hwy 16.

    Hidden Gems of the PNW – Quincy Square Bremerton

    Thank you for reading my post Hidden Gems of the PNW – Quincy Square Bremerton. I hope you will visit soon. See last week’s post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest Bainbridge Island.

    We are grateful whenever you share, pin and comment on our posts. Thank you.

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review Crying in H Mart by Michelle Zauner

    Looking for a feel good memoir that will make you hungry and make you cry at the same time? This fabulous book is for you. Here is my book review Crying in H Mart by Michelle Zauner.

    Family, Food and Finding Peace

    I have wanted to read this book for months and I am so glad I finally got it on the top of my list. It’s a fabulous memoir of a mother daughter relationship. It’s also a love story, an education about Korean culture, and a mouthwatering look at Korean cuisine.

    Korea

    I’m lucky to have spent several weeks in Korea a decade ago. I find the country and the food fascinating. But I really don’t know many people who have traveled to Korea. You should. And maybe by reading this book you will understand the culture a bit more.

    Michelle Zauner was born to a Korean mother and American father in 1989. She was raised in Eugene Oregon, where she had few Asian Americans in her school. Her mother, very strict with high expectations was Michelle’s closest companion, since they lived many miles out of town. In her teens, Michelle rebelled against her mother and the strict Korean rules in the house, even while loving her mother and loving the annual trips to Korea to visit her grandmother. She was conflicted about her Korean heritage and identity.

    Identity

    Michelle flees to the East Coast for college, where her fledgling band has a few gigs, she works in a restaurant and meets Peter her future husband. Far from her mother Michelle is able to put her “Koreanness” at arms length, even though she craves the foods of her childhood.

    It’s not until her mother’s cancer diagnosis that Michelle reckons with her heritage and all she has learned from her mother.

    You’re Gonna Cry

    This reckoning and mother daughter relationship as Michelle’s mother is dying is a real tear jerker. Beautifully written throughout but particularly honest during this process, Zauner is a exceptional storyteller. Combining so many elements and anecdotes from her childhood, Crying in H Mart will make you go call your Mom, and crave some noodles.

    Book Review Crying in H Mart by Michelle Zauner

    *****Five stars for Crying in H Mart by Michelle Zauner. You definitely should read this one. Thank you for reading my book review Crying in H Mart by Michelle Zauner. See last week’s book review The Emperor of Gladness by Ocean Vuong here.

    We love it when you share, pin and comment on our book reviews. Thank you.

    Asia & Oceania Travel

    Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan

    Location: Kyrgyzstan

    Welcome to the eighth and final installment of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan.

    Adjectives

    I can’t come up with enough adjectives to describe the beauty of Kyrgyzstan; resplendent, alluring, breathtaking, glorious, exquisite. Go ahead. Pick one. They all work to describe this tiny country and the scenery and culture.

    Sunset in IssyKul

    The Good

    Kyrgyzstan’s history, like all the countries we have visited on this tour, has spanned many cultures and empires due to its place on the Silk Road. However, its nearly impenetrable mountains often protected Kyrgyzstan from invasion and kept it isolated. Kyrgyzstan declared independence from the USSR and a democratic government was established. Kyrgyzstan attained sovereignty as a nation state. The Kyrgyzstan gradually developed an executive president and was governed as a semi-presidential republic before reverting to a presidential system in 2021.

    Quiet, hardworking and welcoming people

    Everyone we met was kind and seemed pleased to meet visitors to their country. We were very lucky to enjoy cold but clear days giving us outstanding views of the Central Tian Shin mountains – Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan.

    The average monthly salary in Kyrgyzstan is about $250 USD. Gas is about $2.00 USD per gallon. Much of the country is rural and rugged and the capital city of Bishkek is home to more than 1 million of the countries 7 million people.

    Eagle Hunting in Kyrgyzstan

    The Bad

    Despite Kyrgyzstan being rich in metals, minerals and petroleum the people are still generally poor. Kyrgyzstan’s major exports include gold, cotton, wool, garments, meat, mercury, uranium, electricity, machinery, and shoes. There is corruption and ethnic racism issues. Lack of healthcare and terrorism threats are major problems for Kyrgyzstan’s population.

    Where Are We?

    After four weeks traveling together with Intrepid Travel and our group, arriving in our final country of Kyrgyzstan gave us mixed emotions. It was now late October and fall was definitely turning to winter; snow was visible on the mountains throughout our visit.

    Brrr that wind!

    As mentioned in last week’s post (see it here), the border crossing between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan was a freezing cold scramble. But I tried to remind myself – as I stood in the bitter wind waiting to be processed by the custom agent – I would never be here again. Walking across a remote border, pummeled by wind, pulling my suitcase through gravel…not something everyone gets to do. Memorable for sure.

    Low snow and wind on the plateau

    Kyrgyzstan is a small uniquely shaped country surrounded by mountains. To the north is Kazakhstan. To the east and south, China. Also to the south Tajikistan, and to the west Uzbekistan. We spent our visit along the northern border between Karakol and Bishkek. The topography keeps Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan rural.

    Kyrgyzstan

    Karakol

    After crossing the border we arrived in the small former Soviet Military Post town of Karakol. Today Karakol is known for its proximity to ski areas, and receives visitors from many countries in the ski season. We even found a sticker from the Pacific Northwest in a small coffee shop.

    Pacific Northwest skiers have been here

    On arrival in Karakol we had lunch and then had some time to wander around the small town. We enjoyed some beautiful and strange architecture, picked up some treats at the grocery store, and bought some lovely souvenirs at a small shop featuring local hand-made goods. Felting is a popular local handicraft and a perfect gift to take home.

    Interesting architecture
    Kinda weird. No idea what this was for.

    We checked into our family run hotel which was really lovely, and after a long day Arne and I chose to skip dinner and have an early night. Next morning a delicious breakfast was served before we loaded up the van again and were off.

    Before leaving the Karakol area we made a brief stop to visit the historic Dungan Mosque built in 1910. It has a unique Chinese style and was built without any nails – using a special cut and groove technique.

    Dungan Mosque Karakol

    We then made another quick stop to visit the Holy Trinity Orthodox Church, a beautiful Russian Orthodox Church made from wood and still in operation today.

    Holy Trinity Orthodox Church

    On our way out of town we stopped at a small park overlooking Issy Kul Lake that honors Nickolay Przhevalskiy who died in Karakol. Przhevalskiy was an explorer who traveled widely in Central Asia and Mongolia and documented and mapped the region.

    Prezhevalskiy Memorial

    Jeti Orghus Canyon

    Now we settled in for a long drive into the gorgeous mountainous region surrounding the Issyk Kul Lake area. First we stopped to admire the picturesque geological feature roadside called the Seven Bulls. As amazing as that was, we soon learned there was much more in store.

    Seven Bulls valley
    Seven Bulls and two humans

    Driving a short while further we arrived at a hiking location in the Jeti Orghus Canyon. It was a beautiful sunny and cool day, and we hiked up into the hills passing summer cabins and yurts. The views were amazing. Some went even further to a waterfall. Such a great hike and we worked up an appetite.

    Jeti Orghus valley
    Hiking up the hill for a view
    Surrounded by beautiful mountains
    Feeling so blessed!

    Oopsy!

    We headed back to the van to have a picnic lunch but we discovered our van had gotten into a soft spot and was really stuck. Our wonderful driver was trying so hard to solve the issue before we returned. It took about an hour but with the strong backs of some of our fellow travelers (as well as some of the engineer types putting their heads together) we were freed from the mud and eventually on our way. Luckily the weather was good and we all enjoyed another unexpected adventure.

    Many helping hands
    Opps, that is deep.
    Problem solvers

    Onward

    As much as I enjoyed this beautiful location and hike, our next stop was mind blowing. Skazka, in English Fairy Tale Canyon, was so unexpected. Literally appearing like a red mirage out in the middle of the mountains, this geological formation was very reminiscent of Arches or Bryce Canyon National Park in the USA. We had some time to walk around in the maze of trails here, both with our guide Svetlana and on our own. I loved it so much and once again we were lucky with the cold dry weather. Such a treat.

    So unexpected
    Climbing up and down and all around
    Me and our fabulous guide Svetlana
    Isn’t nature amazing

    Almaluu Yurt Camp

    After this wonderful day we continued along the somewhat desolate road that runs along Issyk Kul Lake. This lake is one of the largest in the world at 178km long and 60 km wide. It definitely feels more like an ocean. We arrived at the wonderful Almaluu Yurt Camp just a short walk from the lake. Although in October the camp had only our group and one other, it has dozens of yurts for groups and individuals. The yurts were huge, with coal burning stoves, shared toilet and shower facilities, and a spectacular giant yurt for meals. We would spend two cozy nights here and we really enjoyed it, including the gorgeous views.

    Our Cozy Yurt at Almaluu
    The giant dining yurt
    Welcome to Amaluu

    Adventure and Education

    The view from Amaluu

    We woke up to chilly temperatures and after a delicious hot breakfast we headed out for an unexpectedly amazing day. When reading the days itinerary before hand, I would never have expected this day to turn out to be one of my favorites from the entire trip.

    Eagles

    Our driver took us off road out to a large open space, where we met a local man and his Golden Eagle. We learned the importance of eagle hunting in Kyrgyzstan, and still today there is a small group of 50 expert Master Eagle Trainers and hunters. Most have learned the art from their fathers. In addition to hunting and showing the tourists, an annual gathering called the Nomad Games takes place with competition for traditional cultural skills including eagle hunting, yurt building and more.

    Such an interesting lesson in local culture – Master Eagle Hunters

    We learned that the ancient art of eagle hunting is a UNESCO recognized cultural heritage activity and goes back thousands of years. Eagles that are used are always female. They begin their training about three months old. They are not pets. When they are twenty years old they are released back into the wild and assimilate well and will reproduce until they die – usually around 45 years old. This eagle we had the opportunity to get to know is three years old. She was beautiful and smart.

    Arne seemed like a natural
    I had some trouble – this bird was heavier than I expected!
    The eagle is protecting it’s “kill”
    They make a great team

    Make Your Own Yurt

    Well I had no idea what we were getting ourselves into, but what a fun we had learning how to make a yurt. Honestly it wasn’t all that hard…like putting up a tent with a few more details to take care of. We visited the home of a family of yurt-making professionals. Our hosts make yurts for people all over the world, and man now I want one. Each yurt is made in several parts that can easily be taken up and down and moved from location to location…just as the nomads used to do. The yurts are sturdy and warm. We learned the process from cutting the wood to weaving the decorative elements and then how it all goes together in a matter of about 30 minutes.

    Our host family and teachers
    Learning the skill
    Arne gives it a go
    Such a great design
    Look at the carpet and walls – functional and beautiful

    Yurts were a important part of nomad life in Kyrgyzstan and surrounding regions. They are still used today for lodging and guest houses but rarely as a full home in Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan. It was a full and fabulous day. Back to our own Yurt Camp for a special relaxing dinner, including some local alcoholic specialties Svetlana acquired for us. We slept very well.

    End to an amazing day

    Final Day

    It was our final full day in Krygyzstan and our final day on this amazing four week tour. When we signed up for this tour I was worried four weeks would be too much. It wasn’t. We were continually stimulated, inspired and entertained. It had been a marvelous experience.

    We had a very early morning departure for the long drive to the capital city of Bishkek. After checking into our older but comfortable hotel we headed out for a walking tour of the city. Bishkek is a fairly modern city in the Chu River Valley. It is the capital of Krygyzstan. Our walking tour took us to several monuments and important buildings as well as parks. The best part was the changing of the guard which takes place every hour.

    Changing of the Guard
    Bishkek
    Bishkek

    Farewell

    Kyrgyzstan was authentic, beautiful and so worth it

    Our final night on the tour, we all gathered together for a farewell dinner. I have not shared images of the entire group in any of my blog posts, because I forgot to ask permission from my fellow travelers. And I know one person in particular wasn’t keen on photos. I take that seriously. But I will say we felt very blessed to have such an amiable group, and especially to have such an outstanding guide. Intrepid Travel has my loyalty and I am sure we will travel with them again in the future.

    The Five Stans; Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan were better than I imagined. As I’ve said in the past, it’s always our goal to travel with low expectations and then be pleasantly enchanted. I’ve been asked which of the five were my favorites? It’s a very difficult question; Uzbekistan had amazing architecture. Kazakhstan had amazing food and mountains. And Kyrgyzstan had spectacular scenery. My gratitude cup runneth over. Yes I am one lucky girl.

    I hope you have enjoyed this 8 part series. I have enjoyed writing it. Thank you for your continued support, all your comments and questions. You are a great audience to My Fab Fifties Life adventures.

    Thank you for reading Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan. Please see last week’s post about Incredible Kazakhstan here. Stay tuned for more! Our next departure day is January 16th! I wish you all the happiest of New Years. I hope 2025 brings you good health and many travel adventures.

    We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts. Happy New Year.

    Africa & The Middle East Travel

    Mad About Madagascar

    Madagascar had long been a bucket list item for me. We had begun researching Madagascar the year before Covid…but of course had to put it on the back burner. I’ve been anxious to get it back in our travel itinerary, and well, let me tell you, it was worth the wait. You may know how much my husband and I love a wildlife and birding adventure. Madagascar really delivered on that front…but in many other ways as well. I am now totally Mad About Madagascar and hope I can impress upon you what an incredible destination it is.

    Ring-Tailed Lemur

    Touring Madagascar

    You can do independent travel in Madagascar, but frankly I wouldn’t recommend it. Infrastructure in Madagascar is poor. Roads are long, bumpy and poorly maintained. Having a driver who can expertly and safely maneuver the roads is important. Secondly, the wildlife. Throughout our ten day visit to Madagascar we had two different regional driver/guides and an additional five other site specific guides. The site specific guides played a very important role in the success of our tour. Their expertise in finding wildlife, birds and plants as well as teaching us about the local history, culture and people was immeasurable. Do a tour. You won’t regret it.

    Chameleon
    Common Brown Lemur

    There are dozens of tour companies…probably hundreds. We used a company called Fosa and booked a private ten day tour and upgraded our hotels. We also upgraded to add a flight between the long distance of Antananarivo and Morondava…saving us from a full 10 hour day of treacherous driving. Do your research to find the best fit for you.

    Mad About Madagascar

    Madagascar was so much better than I expected. After our first two days I thought – well we can go home now, it can’t get any better. And yet…it did. It was unexpected at every turn. So let me tell you the highlights of the things we saw, did and experienced. Let me tell you why I am now Mad About Madagascar.

    Red Ruffed Lemur

    Baobabs

    It’s these amazing trees that I wanted to see in Madagascar. I really wasn’t prepared for all the other astonishing things…so that was a bonus. But these amazing Baobab trees were everything I had hoped for. Avenue of the Baobabs, also called Alley of the Baobabs, is not the only place you can enjoy the Baobabs. They are scattered all over the region between Morondava and Kirindy in the south. We first sighted them from the airplane.

    Adansonia is a genus made up of eight species of medium-to-large deciduous trees known as baobabs(/ˈbaʊbæb/ or /ˈbeɪoʊbæb/) or adansonias. They are placed in the Malvaceae family, subfamily Bombacoideae. They are native to Madagascar, mainland Africa, and Australia.[2] The trees have also been introduced to other regions such as Asia.[3] A genomic and ecological analysis has suggested that the genus is Madagascan in origin. (Wikipedia)

    Baobab at sunset
    Baobabs are protected by the government
    Avenue of the Baobabs

    Baobab trees can grow to enormous sizes and carbon dating indicates that they may live to be 3,000 years old. Baobab trees grow as solitary individuals, and are large and distinctive elements of savanna or scrubland vegetation. They grow from 5–25 meters (16–82 feet) tall. An amazing site to see. I think every tour will take you to The Avenue of the Baobabs.

    Sunset at Avenue of the Baobabs

    Other Flora

    Throughout our tour we enjoyed many other species of plant life. From the giant Baobab to the tiniest of fungus. Because we showed a lot of interest in plants and birds as well as wildlife, all of our guides went to great lengths to point out the beauty of Madagascar underfoot and overhead.

    Wild Orchid
    Bonnet Mushroom
    Poinsettia
    Vermillion Waxcap Mushroom
    Lovers Baobab

    Chameleons

    I wasn’t very familiar with chameleons before arriving in Madagascar, and I have to say, I think they are my new favorite creature. These handsome docile bug eaters just hang out and mind their business in the jungles of Madagascar, all while sporting a beautiful and showy suit. I love them. Madagascar is home to over 150 kinds of chameleons and we saw many of them, both in the wild and at a reserve that is working to conserve the reptiles who are threatened from deforestation. Our wonderful guides with their eagle eyes spotted sleeping chameleons during our night-walks and camouflaged chameleons in the bright day. Additional reptiles we found were frogs, snakes and geckos. What a show they all gave us.

    Just minding my business…
    At the reserve this one matched my headband
    Panther Chameleon
    Sleeping Chameleon
    Golden Mantella Frog
    A BIG snake
    Leaf Tailed Gecko

    Birds

    As loyal followers of this blog well know, travel has turned my husband and I into birders. I used to be pretty ambivalent about birds…but once you travel around the world the presence of birds becomes such an important part of each day. We love birding and our guides were incredible at helping us find more than 20 new-to-us species during our ten day tour. And one beautiful giant moth.

    One thing I want to point out is, for the first time ever, we saw sleeping birds. I never have given much thought to where birds sleep. But on our night walk in Kirindy National Park, with our guide, we saw beautiful birds, sound asleep on low branches. A brand new experience for me.

    Sleeping Bird
    Sleeping Bird
    Malagasy Kingfisher (Merlin)
    Red Fody
    Madagascar Moon Moth

    Lemurs

    Lemurs are probably the biggest attraction for visitors who come to Madagascar. The island is home to more than 50 kinds of Lemurs, a tree dwelling primate. And despite its close proximity to mainland Africa, the lemurs are found only on the island.

    Nocturnal Mouse Lemur
    Common Brown Lemur
    Sifaka Lemur

    We did not see all of the species of lemurs, but we were pretty impressed with how many we did see. I was hoping we would just see one or two but we saw dozens. From the smallest mouse lemur, about 11 inches and nocturnal, to the largest – the Indri. The Indri can weigh up to 9.5 kg (21 lb) and perhaps up to 15 kg (33 lb). We encountered many families of indri in the Analamazoatra national park, and were astonished by the screaming noise they make to mark their familiar territory. Absolutely fascinating.

    Spectacular Indri Lemur

    Most of the lemurs we saw, both during the day on night walk, were regional to the two areas we visited; Kirindy National Park and Analamazoatra National Park. But we also visited a private reserve near Andasibe where we saw many lemurs from other parts of the island, including the ring-tailed lemur the one most people are familiar with.

    Ring Tailed Lemur
    Diademed Sifaka Lemur

    Culture and History

    We had several opportunities during our ten day tour to engage with the local Malagasy people. Everyone we met was kind and welcoming. Tourism makes up 5% of the island economy, and most people work in farming and fishing and live a sustenance life. Everywhere we went people were toiling in some fashion. We particularly enjoyed a canoe ride in Morondava to see the fishing boats. We also waded across a shallow estuary at low tide to visit a small fishing village. Here about 1000 people live with no running water or electricity growing vegetables, fishing and boat building.

    Rice Fields harvest twice a year
    Many people fish
    Walking to the fishing village at low tide
    Sweet children in the fishing village

    We also had the opportunity on our final day to do a walking tour of Antananarivo, called Tana by the locals. Antananarivo is the capital and largest city in Madagascar, home to nearly 4 million people. We visited some historic sites and walked through the very busy daily market swarming with people. This was the only place in our entire visit we were warned to be diligent about pickpockets.

    Looking at the massive market downhill Antananarivo
    Queen’s Palace Antananarivo
    Antananarivo is sprawling and home to 4 million people

    Things to Know

    Logistics

    There are two official languages in Madagascar; French and Malagasy. Malagasy is just one of 18 tribal languages in the country. Most people in the tourism industry speak a bit of English. All of our guides spoke excellent English.

    Don’t expect to use your credit card. We paid cash for all but one transaction over our ten day tour. Even hotels and restaurants operate in the local currency of Ariary. As of this writing the exchange rate is one Ariary = .23 US cents

    Safety

    I felt safe everywhere I went, and I was always with a guide. The only time we were warned to be aware of pickpockets was in the city of Antananarivo – a city of 4 million people. Crime is a problem in the city so be aware. But very little of our time was spent in the city.

    Though not all areas of Madagascar are prone to malaria, we did take malaria medicine while in the country. Discuss it with you doctor.

    Lodging

    We stayed in five different hotels during our tour. All were excellent, clean, had delicious restaurants and friendly English speaking staff. Only one did not have Aircon or wifi due to it’s remoteness.

    In Morondava we had a lovely beach-side hotel
    Our stay Kirindy was the most remote lodging with no WIFI and power only a couple hours a day
    In Andasibe we had a really nice bungalow surrounded by the most beautiful gardens

    Costs

    Our tour for two people with the upgrades I mentioned above cost $5076 for ten days. Our tour included breakfast but not lunch or dinner. We ate all our dinners at the hotels and and few lunches elsewhere. Over the ten days we spent about $400 on food and drinks. We tipped our drivers and guides generously…a total for tips over the ten days was about $250. Our round trip flight from Vienna via Addis Ababa cost $910 per person.

    Mad About Madagascar

    My bucket list of destinations got significantly shorter after this long awaited trip to Madagascar. It was the final destination of an 8 month long journey that started in remarkable Papua New Guinea and ended in magnificent Madagascar. What a life. My Fab Fifties Life.

    Peek-a-Boo

    I highly recommend Madagascar. If you have considered it, ask me questions. I am Mad About Madagascar and am so grateful it turned out even better than I had always imagined.

    Black Heron (Merlin)

    Thank you for reading my post Mad About Madagascar and for your continued interest and support of our travels. Be sure and see last week’s post Visit Vienna Austria. And come back next week for even more of our grand travel adventures.

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    Become a World Traveler

    Making Sense Of It All

    A New Year of Travel

    Location: Around the World

    Why do we travel? I get many, many questions about our travel life, everything from how do I make coffee in my French Press to how do we afford a life of travel? Some people find it hard – making sense of it all – my travel life.

    But the questions I like the best are when someone asks me to describe the way a place smells? Or what are the sounds I hear when alone sipping coffee in the morning? I love it when someone is astute enough or interested enough to ask a meaningful question like how does travel make me feel? What are the sensory elements of travel? How does a handshake feel from a Masai warrior, a Mayan weaver or a Chinese fisherman?

    Door knocker in Oman

    Because as we tumble into our seventh year of travel these are the moments that linger for me. I am long past being impressed by tourism kitsch, fancy restaurants or hotels and shopping deals. Travel is now about the senses and mine are more alive than at any time before in my life.

    A Sense of Adventure

    Adventure is a key part of our travel life. In fact we are much more adventurous in our sixties than we ever were in our twenties or thirties. Living a life with a sense of adventure creates remarkable moments – moments that are often difficult to describe – but are part of this person I have become through travel. This reality of being someone different than who I was before is part of our grand adventure, a part I never planned or expected and yet, here it is. And it makes sense.

    Sailing in Seattle

    A Sense of Space

    No one is more surprised than myself about how I have become a minimalist. Learning that I can, easily, live with very little has created a sense in me of openness. A sense of space. And I like that space. It feels good. It feels healthy. I feel lighter and more free. I don’t want to fill that space with anything more than moments. For now that is what makes sense.

    Balloons over Bagan Myanmar

    A Sense of Time

    As I age I am acutely aware of waning time. I am accepting of the fact that there is a lot more territory in my rearview mirror than in my windshield ahead. As I have mourned several dear friends these past years my sense of time has been sharpened. Each individual approaches this sense of time differently, but for me and my husband filling our lives with a travel life of memorable moments brings us joy and a sense of happiness. This makes sense to us.

    Arabic clock Tunisia

    Common Sense

    You might think that travel and the frequent stress it can create would make me high-strung and irritable. But it’s actually the opposite. Travel has instilled in me more common sense than I have ever possessed before. Learning to navigate the world while loving the experience and just going with the flow is a learned skill – one you cannot do without common sense. Serving as a self-appointed ambassador for my home country – showing a big and beautiful world that Americans can be nice, thoughtful, tolerant and understanding has provided me a greater sense of being…and a well rounded repertoire of common sense. Nothing could make more sense.

    Bridge in Hanoi Vietnam

    A Sixth Sense

    Maturity more than travel is what I credit for my own awareness. A sort of sixth sense has developed in me as I have aged. I’ve learned to read my own intuition and act on it, rather than regret it later. I’ve learned awareness of my surroundings, and my place in it, and my impact on it. I have tried to be a better steward for our planet, a better representative for my generation and a better American towards other cultures. In my own little way, I am here. This is how I make sense of it all.

    Temple in Hua Hin Thailand

    Forward

    So here we go again. Our travels in 2023 will take from oceans to mountaintops. From jungles to cities. From beaches to glaciers. It’s all there. Waiting to fulfill us and our thirst for sensing how the world turns and what makes it’s people tick. A full and fabulous experience. A Fabulous Fifties Life.

    Taj Mahal India

    We post a new blog every Friday…with some fun things coming up in the weeks ahead including our annual travel awards. Sign up to receive our blog via email so you don’t miss it! We appreciate it when you share our blog.

    This blog post was originally posted in December 2019 and was updated for this posting.

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review Sea of Tranquility by Emily St. John Mandel

    Well I have loved this author in the past for her astonishing work of Station Eleven, one of my favorite books of 2018. It’s about a pandemic by the way…weird. I was excited to read her next novel The Glass Hotel, but it just fell flat for me. So I was cautiously hopeful about her latest book. And, I loved it. Here is my Book Review Sea of Tranquility by Emily St. John Mandel.

    In this novel Mandel continues her imaginative work into “speculative fiction”, a genre that takes the reader through both natural and unnatural, magical and metaphysical and futuristic. But, it’s not SciFi. It’s much more. This book had some elements that reminded me of Cloud Cockoo Land, one of my favorite books of 2021. I love a writer who can imagine life in a completely different realm but make it is believable.

    In Sea of Tranquility we meet a wide range of characters, in a wide range of time frames, starting with Edwin in 1912 to Olive two hundred years later and finally Gaspery-Jacques another several centuries in the future. How these people are connected, and reconnected through time travel, is the crux of the story. Can the past be changed, should it be?

    You’ll find yourself questioning your own daily reality, as questions are explored that we are grappling with on earth today including climate, pandemic, and violence. Thank you for reading my Book Review Sea of Tranquility by Emily St. John Mandel.

    *****Five stars for Sea of Tranquility by Emily St. John Mandel

    Read last week’s review of So Brave Young and Handsome by Leif Enger

    My current read The Omnivore’s Dilemma

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review Motherless Brooklyn by Jonathan Lethem

    I really loved this book. What a great story told with such expression. I read the book on my Kindle but can imagine it would be excellent on Audible too…and now I hope to see the movie…if I ever get off this crazy island I’m trapped on.

    Reading is such a blessing during this lockdown, and a book like Motherless Brooklyn for me is the perfect distraction; a compelling story about believable characters in real world situations with modern day afflictions. It was a page turner.

    Lethem brilliantly creates a character living with full-on Tourette’s syndrome by using a combination of creative story-telling and ingenious tactile components in the story. His writing gives the reader a first hand experience of living with Tourette’s, while bringing together other elements of the character’s unique and obsessive mind. You will fall in love with the character of Lionel Essrog.

    Motherless Brooklyn follows Lionel’s life from childhood to mobster hood in Brooklyn and Harlem, as Lionel emerges as a talented detective, unafraid, detail obsessed and out to solve the murder of his mentor and only friend.

    High praise for all the characters in this story, the remarkable and unique plot, and the beautiful writing of Lethem.

    *****Five Stars for Motherless Brooklyn by Jonathan Lethem.

    Read last week’s review of The Giver of Stars

    My current read American Dirt