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Theo

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review Theo of Golden by Allen Levi

    I was in a reading slump at the end of 2025, uninspired by nearly everything I tried to read. And then there was Theo. The feel good book of the year. Here is my Book Review Theo of Golden by Allen Levi.

    Heartfelt

    The word heartfelt, though a bit cliché, is the best word to describe this beautiful story. I listened to this book and seriously found myself smiling through it…except for when I was sobbing. I have not read anything by Levi before, and this character driven novel is such a beautiful story.

    Who is Theo?

    An old man shows up in the small Southern USA town of Golden. With no other name he is willing to share than Theo, this quiet, compassionate, generous gentleman begins to sew a tapestry of goodwill and benevolence through the community. Each person he encounters questions why a perfect stranger would be so kind-hearted.

    Characters

    The plot revolves around Theo bestowing portraits to a wide range of characters within the community. As each bestowal occurs, Levi creates a magical connectin for the reader to an eclectic group of people in Golden. We meet a intelligent homeless woman, a local musical busker, a single sad father, a little girl suffering from a tragedy, a bookseller running from his past, a music virtuoso and a remarkable artist trying to make ends meet. These are the people that Theo of Golden is about, and how one old man can touch so many lives.

    Book Review Theo of Golden by Allen Levi

    I loved listening to this book, but I’m sure it is just as touching as a hand held. Definitely one of my favorite books I’ve read this year, and if you haven’t read it yet, you should. I’m smiling as I am writing this, because that’s what happens when you get to know Theo.

    *****Five stars for Theo of Golden by Allen Levi.

    Thank you for reading my Book Review Theo of Golden by Allen Levi. A true work of art.

    See my last book review Dream State by Eric Puchner.

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    Reading Wednesday

    Ninth Annual (and Final) Reading Round Up 2026

    As you likely know if you have been following all these years, I track my reading year from July to July – why not be different from everyone else who tracks January to January? Nothing fancy, just keep a little tally in my notebook of all the books I read. This year I read 95 books, (eight more than last year) and the most I have ever read in one year. Due to my convalescing from total knee replacement, my book total is much higher than usual. Today I will share with you my favorites for the Ninth Annual (and Final) Reading Round Up 2026.

    In case you didn’t know, I am retiring the My Fab Fifties Blog at the end of 2026. I will retire the Reading Wednesday blog post today...with this being the final book review post. Over the past nine years I have written just short of 500 book reviews and read just under 900 books. I will continue to talk about books on my Instagram page. So if you have enjoyed these weekly book reviews for NINE YEARS please join us on Instagram. Here is the link.

    Over the past year I have written 53 book reviews, pulling into reviews my favorites of the 95 books. Most of my reading is done on my Kindle while traveling, and hardback and paperback when I am home in the summer. There is always an  Audible going when I am in the car too. I like Audible for car trips, a great way to be entertained on the road. I also found Audible very soothing right after my surgery when my focus wasn’t up to par.

    So as in the past several years, I’m sharing my most favorites from July ’25 to July ’26. Some outstanding novels, biographies, historical non-fiction, and memoirs. In past years I have shared a number one of the year. But this year, I just cant do it. I read so many impressive books this year, I just can’t chose. So for this final Reading Roundup I share my TOP FIVE (in order) and FIFTEEN more I highly recommend. So here we go, my Ninth Annual (And Final) Reading Round Up 2026;

    TOP FIVE

    The River is Waiting

    This book. Wow. I listened to this book and it truly blew me away. This is my first read by Wally Lamb, and he is brilliant. I haven’t read a book in a REALLY long time that gave me such a visceral reaction. Let me be honest with you. If you can get through the first chapter of this book, you will be rewarded with a rich, deep and heartbreaking personal story. Lamb has created a hero for our time in Corbin Ledbetter. I can’t stop thinking about this book, or this character. A sure sign of an exceptional read. 

    The Calamity Club

    Both funny and sad The Calamity Club takes a deep dive into Mississippi and the south in the 1930’s. The novel touches on homosexuality, promiscuity, orphanages, infidelity, race and the southern hierarchy of wealth and poverty. But mostly this book is about a women’s drive to survive. Women’s health, still today, is poorly studied or properly diagnosed and in 1933 Mississippi it was downright appalling.

    John of John

    The narrative in this book, so beautifully written, is above all else, about truth. A deep thread running through the novel is how difficult it can be, particularly in a small cutoff place, to become who you were meant to be. On this barren island old ways die hard. Religion is rigid. One of the last places where Gaelic is spoken and subsistence farming continues. How to be true to yourself when life is expected to only be a one certain way?

    Mad Mabel

    What happens when Australia’s youngest convicted murderer grows up to be a cantankerous old woman in a quiet Melbourne neighborhood? Hepworth’s wonderful novel is full of engaging characters and laugh out loud predicaments.

    Theo of Golden

    I was in a reading slump at the end of 2025, uninspired by nearly everything I tried to read. And then there was Theo. The feel good book of the year. The word heartfelt, though a bit cliché, is the best word to describe this beautiful story. I seriously found myself smiling through it…except for when I was sobbing. I have not read anything by Levi before, and this character driven novel is such a beautiful story.

    AND FIFTEEN MORE IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER

    So Far Gone by Jess Walters in a word REDEMPTION

    Broken Country by Claire Leslie Hall in a word SECRETS

    Wild Dark Shores by Charlotte McConaghy in a word GRIPPING

    My Friends Frederik Backman in a word HEARTBREAKING

    The Correspondent by Virginia Evans in a word GRIEF

    The Road to Tender Hearts by Annie Hartnet in a word HILARIOUS

    Buckeye by Patrick Ryan in a word GRIEF

    Heartwood by Amity Gaige in a word SURVIVAL

    The Names by Florence Knapp in a word CHOICES

    The Lincoln Moon by Michael Price Nelson in a word INFAMOUS

    Life & Death & Giants by Ron Rindo in a word MIRACLES

    Yesteryear by Caro Claire Burke in a word DISTURBING

    The Tortoise’s Tale by Kendra Coulter in a word OBSERVATIONS

    The Elements by John Boyne in a word ABUSED

    A Family Matter by Claire Lynch in a word SHAMEFUL

    Reading Roundup

    And with that, we wrap nine years and nearly 500 book reviews. It’s been a passion and a pleasure to write these book reviews (and travel posts). We will continue to write travel posts through January ’27, but here today the book reviews end.

    Please follow us on Instagram, where we will have book recommendations in a shorter, video format regularly. Thank you for your continued support all these years. It has been my greatest joy to provide this service, talk about books, and build a love of reading amongst my followers. The world would be kinder, smarter, more tolerant, understanding and interesting, if everyone would turn off their television and read.

    Yours,

    Laureen

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review Water Lies by Amy Meyerson

    Amy Meyerson is a new to me author, but she has three other highly acclaimed novels. Water Lies was a fast paced and easy read. Here is my book review Water Lies by Amy Meyerson.

    This novel was gifted to me by MB Communications in return for my honest review.

    Motherhood

    At its essence, this book is about Motherhood. But cleverly disguised as a murder-mystery. Set in the Venice Canals area of Los Angeles, with its posh homes and wealthy families, we meet Tessa. A young, pregnant mother navigating late stage pregnancy with a toddler in tow. One morning Tessa and her little boy are in a coffee shop. Tessa is feeling vulnerable in late stage pregnancy, and living in the Canal area doesn’t help. It’s like a fishbowl, where everyone knows what everyone else is doing…and they are judging. Or so Tessa thinks.

    While in the coffee shop Tessa’s son Jasper has a tantrum, when he sees and calls out to a young women he seems to know. Gigi. Geee Geee! He calls over and over. Tessa has never seen this women and does not understand her son’s reaction. Tessa leaves the coffee shop with a visceral feeling that something is strange.

    Murder?

    Just 24 hours later, the same women in the coffee shop, is found dead in the canals. Despite the police and Tessa’s husband Gabe insisting it was just an accident, Tessa instincts are strong. The woman’s name is Regina, and Regina’s mother Barb also does not believe it was an accident. Barb flies to LA to begin her own investigation. Tessa and Barb will become an unlikely pair as they begin to unravel a strange and frightening scenario around Regina’s death.

    Book Review Water Lies by Amy Meyerson

    This thriller is fast paced and kept my attention, even though there were a few too obvious clues that I knew immediately would come back later in the story. That said, this murder plot is an interesting storyline that looks at all aspects of motherhood including infertility, pregnancy, birth, maternal instincts and mothering of adults. Additionally there are themes of family secrets, infidelity and friendship. The story includes introspection on IVF and the fertility as business, in the United States and the stigma around it.

    ****Four stars for Water Lies by Amy Meyerson, released on January 1, 2026

    See last week’s book review Theo of Golden by Allen Levi

    We are always grateful when you share, pin and comment on our book reviews. Thank you.

    North America Travel

    Fun Roadside Attractions Cross Country Interstate 90

    Minnesota and South Dakota

    Iconic American roads are famous for some fun and crazy roadside attractions. Everything from the World’s Largest Ball of Twine in Kansas to Cadillac Ranch in Texas. See a full list here. Since we have driven across the USA multiple times, we have visited some of these quirky and unexpected sites. So on our recent return drive from Maine to Washington State, we visited four more. Here are our suggestions for Fun Roadside Attractions Cross Country Interstate 90.

    SPAM Museum, Austin Minnesota

    Interstate 90

    On our 6 previous cross-country road trips we have wandered around multiple interstates, back roads and the iconic Route 66. But for the purpose of this round trip cross country drive we stuck pretty close to Interstate 90. I-90 is an amazing interstate system that starts in Seattle and ends in Boston Massachusetts. It’s well maintained, and despite parts of the interstate being in wide open and sparsely populated regions, it is safe.

    I-90 Starts in Seattle Washington

    History of Roadside Attractions

    When I was a kid we drove from Seattle to the Redwood Forests and my clearest memory of that trip is a giant Paul Bunyan and his Blue Ox Babe! I don’t really remember the trees! US road travel has always been part of the culture, and US entrepreneurs have cashed in on this for generations. Here is what Wikipedia says about the history of roadside attractions;

    When long-distance road travel became practical and popular in the 1920s, entrepreneurs began building restaurants, motels, coffee shops, cafes, and unusual businesses to attract travelers.[4][5] Many of the buildings were attractions in themselves in the form of novelty architecture, depicting everyday objects of enormous size, typically relating to the items sold there.[6] Some other types of roadside attractions include monuments and fictionalized-paranormal/illusionary amusements such as the Mystery Spot near Santa Cruz, California,[7] or curiosities such as The Thing? along Interstate 10 in Arizona.[8]

    With the construction of the U.S. Interstate Highway System in the mid-1950s, many roadside attractions were bypassed and quickly went out of business.[5] Some remained attractive enough to divert travelers from the interstate for a brief respite and thus remain in business. (Wikipedia)

    Filters on photos
    An iconic old gas station on Route 66, 2016.

    Some Quirky and Some Not

    In this post today I’m sharing four US Roadside Attractions we visited on our return trip. Two are a bit quirky, and two were fascinating. Here is our list;

    Jolly Green Giant

    If you grew up in the USA in the 1960’s, the Jolly Green Giant TV Commercial and jingle were part of daily life. The Jolly Green Giant brand of canned and frozen vegetables created the iconic symbol in 1928. The 55 foot fiberglass statue of The Jolly Green Giant in Blue Earth Minnesota, right on I-90, was created in 1978. It attracts more than 10,000 visitors a year, including me and my husband in September.

    Jolly Green Giant, Blue Earth Minnesota

    SPAM Museum

    How this humble meat in a square can became an icon around the world is the story you will learn at the SPAM Museum in Austin Minnesota. I was pleasantly surprised by this fun, colorful, interesting, educational and FREE museum. Located in the heart of the historic community of Austin. SPAM (an acronym for Spiced Ham) is manufactured by the Hormel Company. George Hormel founded Hormel Foods which today owns multiple well-known products under many other brand names, such as Applegate, Columbus Craft Meats, Herdez, Jennie-O, Planters, SKIPPY, and WHOLLY. 

    The museum is colorful and fun and kids would love it. There are multiple interactive activities as well as recipes, history, science, a gift shop and free samples! Over 100,000 people visit each year. I really enjoyed our visit and recommend it highly.

    SPAM Museum Austin Minnesota
    SPAM was a staple food during WWII
    Island nations love SPAM . Guam consumes more SPAM than any other place in the world
    Monty Python helped bring SPAM into the psyche with humor

    The Corn Palace

    I arrived at The Corn Palace in Mitchell South Dakota having done zero research and expecting something tacky and kitschy. Absolutely not. We were astonished. It is so much more than a tacky tourist attraction…it is the center of the lovely small historic farming town of Mitchell.

    The Corn Palace website describes the history as;

    Eight years before the turn of the 20th century, in 1892 (when Mitchell, South Dakota was a small, 12-year-old city of 3,000 inhabitants) the World’s Only Corn Palace was established on the city’s Main Street. During it’s over 100 years of existence, it has become known worldwide and now attracts more than a half a million visitors annually.

    The palace was conceived as a gathering place where city residents and their rural neighbors could enjoy a fall festival with extraordinary stage entertainment – a celebration to climax a crop-growing season and harvest. This tradition continues today with the annual Corn Palace Festival held in late August each year.

    Some 500,000 tourists come from around the nation each year to see the uniquely designed corn murals. The city’s first Corn Palace was built as a way to prove to the world that South Dakota had a healthy agricultural climate.
    (Corn Palace Website)

    I was astonished by the beauty of the interior performing and sporting venue, as well as the annually-changed exterior murals made of corn and corn byproducts. More than 500,000 people visit the Corn Palace each year. I highly recommend a visit to the Worlds Only Corn Palace when in South Dakota.

    Exterior of the Corn Palace, Mitchell South Dakota
    Gorgeous interior for sports and arts at the Corn Palace
    Exterior Murals are changed annually
    Mural theme for 2026 is Wonders of the World

    Wall Drug

    One of the most famous USA roadside attractions is in the small town of Wall South Dakota, where more than 2 million people a year visit Wall Drug. And to think it all started with free ice water in 1931.

    The depression was raging, offering something free…even water…was unheard of. But Wall Drug founder Theodore “Ted” Hustead, took a chance. He used free ice water and catchy roadside signs to lure visitors on their way to Mount Rushmore and the Badlands. And today, millions of people follow in those same tracks. Today the sprawling complex is a bit tourist kitsch, with tsotskys and old West theme. But, especially for kids, there is a lot of fun to be had. We had a cup of the iconic 5-cent coffee (it was good), walked around on a chilly October day and smiled at the wide range of crazy sights from a giant Jack Rabbit to a T Rex. Something for everyone in Wall Drug, Wall South Dakota.

    Silly Wall Drug, South Dakota
    Touristy trinkets, clothing and art available for purchase in Wall Drug
    Surprisingly good 5-cent coffee
    Annie Oakley

    Driving Across the USA

    Our month long trip covered 16 states and 8400 miles. Sometimes exhausting but always entertaining. I will share one more Road Trip Blog Post coming up…but I hope you enjoyed today’s Fun Roadside Attractions Cross Country Interstate 90. Be sure to see our other posts from our cross country trip; Yellowstone National Park USA, One Day in Chicago Illinois, Cleveland Ohio Museums Not to Miss and Visit the National Baseball Hall of Fame.

    We are always grateful when you share our posts to your friends and family, pin our posts and comment on our posts. Thank you.

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review So Far Gone by Jess Walter

    A book for these times of conspiracy theories and extremest militia cults. Jess Walter gives us a book of family and redemption. Here is my Book Review So Far Gone by Jess Walter.

    Jess Walter

    This is the third book I have read by Walter who is based in my home state of Washington. The thing I like about Walter is how varied the three books have been; Beautiful Ruines is about Hollywood in Italy post war; The Cold Millions is about class uprising in working class Spokane early 20th century. And now, So Far Gone, based in modern times (2016 when Trump is elected) of dealing with modern politics and problems.

    Rhys Kinnick

    Walter’s introduces us to a well thought out character, retired journalist Kinnick. Seven years earlier Kinnick had left the mainstream to live off the grid. Kinnick’s decision came after his daughter’s conspiracy theory husband goes too far with politics talk on Thanksgiving, and Kinnick punches him.

    Kinnick moves to a family cabin from his childhood where he lives as a recluse, not seeing his daughter or two grand kids. During this time politics in the United States is turbulent with Trump, changing media and journalism standards, and far right groups like the Church of the Blessed Fire, the militia Christian church Kinnick’s son-in-law is in.

    Disappearance

    When a woman shows up on his remote cabin porch with two kids, Rhys doesn’t even recognize his two grand kids. This is when he learns his daughter has vanished, and the kids are now in his care. But something is afoul, and Rhys must figure it out. He will need to enlist the help of people from his past, not all of who he has left on good terms.

    Book Review So Far Gone by Jess Walter

    So Far Gone is a book of redemption, for a crotchety old man, who drinks too much and has an anger problem. But he loves his daughter and his grand kids, and he will learn they are worth fighting for. Walter gives us multiple fine characters in this novel (and introduces their view in separate chapters) and a plot that has some humor as well as fear. Though fiction, it feels very believable in a crazy world we are currently living in.

    Not my favorite of the three Walter novels I have read, but a solid and engaging story that is compelling and beautifully written.

    ****Four stars for So Far Gone by Jess Walter. Thank you for reading my book review So Far Gone by Jess Walter. See last week’s book review Bury Our Bones in the Midnight Soil by V.E. Schwab

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    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review The Secret Life of Sunflowers by Dana Marton

    The Secret Life of Sunflowers by Dana Marton is a surprising historical novel about an amazing women.  I learned a lot from this beautiful story of love and perserverance in 1800’s Paris and Amsterdam. Here is my book review The Secret Life of Sunflowers by Dana Marton.

    Vincent Van Gogh

    Much has been written of the life of Vincent van Gogh.  But little has been shared of his brother Theodore, and even less of Theodore’s wife Johanna van Gogh.  This is her story, her remarkable story.

    Following the death of both Vincent and Theodore, Johanna is left alone with an infant child and no means to support herself.  She also is left with more than 700 paintings by Vincent, which no one wants or recognizes his talent.  Johanna will spend years diligently workihg to find someone, anyone, who will do a showing of the paintings.  She finds her hidden calling in serving as the agent for these still to be discovered masterpieces, in a world where women did not play such a role.  But her own survival depended on it.

    The plot has a parallel story line – Los Angeles and New York present day.  We meet Emsley Wilson, owner of an auction house.  When Emsley’s famous grandmother passes away, Emsley discovers a diary – the diary of Johanna Van Gogh.  Emsley’s journey discovering how her grandmother came into possession of the diary will bring her life new meaning, new friends, new direction, a new love and financial independence.

    The novel, though based on a real historical person, is fiction.  Marton however did extensive research and presents the facts carefully in the well written and engaging narrative of the story.  I enjoyed both story lines, but particularly loved the Johanna storyline and her determination and drive.  When she succeeds, you cheer for her out loud!

    *****Five stars for The Secret Life of Sunflowers by Dana Marton.

    Thank you for reading my book review The Secret Life of Sunflowers by Dana Marton.  See last week’s book review The Safekeep by Yael Van Der Wouden.

    We love it when you share and comment on our book reviews.  Thank you.

    Asia & Oceania Travel  --  Europe Travel

    Yerevan, Armenia

    The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

    Welcome to the first of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Let’s begin with Yerevan Armenia.

    Mother Armenia, Yerevan

    Where Am I?

    Yerevan, Armenia is not on everyone’s travel bucket list, but it was on mine after reading about it from another travel blogger several years ago. In fact we were scheduled for this trip when Covid shut the world down. So we were happy to finally get to the beautiful Caucasus region.

    Armenia was the first of eight former Soviet states we would visit on this whirlwind trip. Over the past 8 plus years on the Grand Adventure, I have grown to really appreciate what it was like behind the Iron Curtain and why many people believe things were better for them during that time. Not all, but many people miss the security they enjoyed during the Soviet era.

    Where is Armenia?

    A Little History

    Armenia, one of the oldest countries in the world, boasts a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was home to the Urartian Kingdom in the 9th century BCE, which laid the foundation for Armenian culture and identity. The Kingdom of Armenia was officially established in 301 CE when it became the first nation to adopt Christianity as its state religion, a pivotal moment that significantly influenced its cultural and social development. Throughout the centuries, Armenia faced numerous invasions and occupations, including those by the Persians, Romans, Byzantines, and later the Seljuks and Ottomans, which shaped its political landscape and often led to the displacement of its people.

    Yerevan is known for it’s delicious water and free drinking fountains around the city.
    Many ancient and beautiful monasteries survived the Soviet era

    Learning about the Armenian Genocide was eye-opening for me. In the early 20th century, Armenia experienced one of the most tragic events in its history: the Armenian Genocide. Perpetrated by the Ottoman Empire during World War I, an estimated 1.5 million Armenians were extinguished. Why have I never heard about this?

    Be sure to check out the book review The Sandcastle Girls by Chris Bohjalian I posted last Wednesday. This novel is a must-read to learn more about the Armenian Genocide.

    Following the war, Armenia briefly declared independence in 1918 but was soon incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920, where it remained until the dissolution of the USSR in 1991.

    Few people are aware of the horrific genocide the Armenian people suffered at the hands of the Ottoman Empire in the early 20th Century. Armenia’s relation with Turkey remains strained.

    How’s it Going?

    Since gaining independence 1991, Armenia has sought to rebuild its national identity and address the historical injustices faced by its people. The country is navigating complex geopolitical challenges, particularly its relationship with neighboring Turkey and Azerbaijan. Armenia is part of the EU’s Eastern Partnership since 2009. Today, Armenia is recognized for its rich cultural heritage, including its ancient churches and monasteries, and its ongoing efforts to establish itself as a modern nation-state in the South Caucasus region. The world-wide Armenian diaspora (about 10 million) create awareness around the world about this little known and beautiful region of our planet.

    Monastery at Lake Sevan

    As a visitor to Yerevan Armenia, we found most everything inexpensive from restaurants to tours and souvenirs. During our stay we ate delicious meals with drinks in Yerevan for less than $25 USD for two. Gas prices however, were about $5.30 gallon. The average monthly salary in Armenia is around $675 USD a month.

    We even found a couple of craft breweries. Hubby happy.

    The Good

    Armenia is still working its way through issues from the past Soviet era, but the people we met seem happy with the direction of their country with some exceptions regarding education. In Yerevan (one of the oldest cities in the world) we had a great Airbnb with an engaged and friendly host. We did three tours; a history walking tour, a food walking tour and a cooking class and market tour. These were all private tours we booked through Viator, and we had excellent guides and experiences. All of our guides spoke great English and were enthusiastic about the future of their country.

    Fun cooking class with a local
    Walking tour we learned so many things including about the more than 115 drinking fountains around the city
    Jengyalov Hac is one of the best things I have ever eaten. Without our guide we would never have known about this herb stuffed sandwich.

    The Bad

    Similar to our visit last spring to Albania and Serbia, the traffic was awful. It’s clear that the pace of automobile acquisition in Yerevan, Armenia after independence has outmatched that of infrastructure development. Drivers are aggressive, blaring horns constantly and the din can be annoying. Most drivers seem untrained with little regard for rules of the road. Case in point – we ordered a taxi on a rainy day. The taxi arrived and it was an old car, no seat belts and past it’s prime. In hindsight we should never have gotten in this vehicle. But we did. The driver was driving way too fast, in the wrong lane and swerved to miss a car. We crashed into a concrete barrier. Unfortunately, because we were not wearing seat belts, my husband hit is head hard on the ceiling and suffered a concussion.

    Accident does not look bad, but our injuries were due to the fact we were not wearing seat belts. Despite rules for such safety features, we had little recourse.

    Because of the concussion and my husband needing to rest, we ended up missing our all day tour outside of the city to Khor Virap and the Tatev Monastery. Even though I did not visit these places, I still recommend them if you have the chance. These are the top sights outside of Yerevan. It was disappointing but necessary for us to not travel on the day after our taxi accident.

    Khor Virap (Canva) with Mount Ararat in the distance

    Genocide

    The Genocide is one of the worst things that has happened to the Armenian people, and it is something few people in the world know about. The Armenian genocide was the systematic destruction of the Armenian people and identity in the Ottoman Empire during World War I. Spearheaded by the ruling Committee of Union and Progress (CUP), it was implemented primarily through the mass murder of around one million Armenians during death marches to the Syrian Desert and the forced Islamization of others, primarily women and children. Today in Yerevan, this horrific period is remembered with an excellent Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum that is a must visit for everyone visiting Armenia.

    Areminan Genocide Museum

    Today Armenia has no diplomatic relations with neighboring Azerbaijan. There are no open border crossings which presents a problem for visitors navigating the Caucasus region. This is due to the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict – an ethnic and territorial dispute between Armenia and Azerbaijan. This is an ongoing issue, very volatile, with no negotiations in sight.

    The Beautiful

    Yerevan, Armenia has many beautiful sites. We enjoyed our time inside the city. Our favorite places included the giant statue of Mother Armenia, the view of Mount Ararat (Armenians believe it to be where Noah’s Ark is), the Yerevan Cascade Climb, Matenadaran Manuscript Library, Republic Square and the amazing Genocide Memorial and Museum. We spent several hours exploring the National Gallery of Armenia and the GUM Market (has nothing to do with chewing gum) and we recommend both.

    Cascade Climb
    Republic Square
    Lake Sevan

    The beautiful and kind people stood out. They were interested in us and welcoming. Like many of the countries we visit, we did not meet any other Americans. Most of the visitors are from Europe.

    Unique and kind people
    Genocide Memorial
    National Gallery of Armenia
    Mount Ararat on a cloudy day. Most of the mountain currently lies in Turkey and is one of Armenia’s border conflicts with that nation

    A shout out to the local Emergency Room too. Our wonderful Airbnb host personally escorted us to the emergency room on a Sunday, stayed with us the entire time and translated for us. We would have been lost without him. Our ER visit with CatScan and prescriptions was $128.

    We were lucky to have our Airbnb host help us at the hospital

    Armenians are proud of their unique language and alphabet. The Armenian alphabet, created in 405 AD by the linguist and theologian Mesrop Mashtots, is a unique script that reflects the rich cultural and historical heritage of the Armenian people.

    An outdoor exhibit explains the unique and ancient Armenian alphabet

    Food Glorious Food

    Our food tour and cooking class both provided us an eye-opening education to the cuisine of Armenia. We had amazing Khorovats – like a shishkebab grilled meat; dolma, vine leaf wrapped meat; ghapama (my favorite), a spectacular stuffed pumpkin or squash; gata – a sweet bread; pickles of every persuasion; jengyalov hac – an incredible herb filled flat bread wrap; and the famous lavash flat bread served at every meal.

    Making lavish in the giant oven
    Ghapama is a stuffed pumpkin meal

    Here below is a link to our YouTube video about Armenian Food. Delicious.

    Watch this video to learn more about the surprising cuisines of Armenia

    Yerevan, Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

    Yerevan, Armenia was a perfect place to spend a week. Plenty of time to see many historical sites, museums and parks and to eat the great food. We really enjoyed the people, the architecture and the culture. We enjoyed learning about the Armenian Apostolic Church (97% of Armenians are Christian) founded 301 AD. Christianity is the official state religion.

    Historic Yerevan Church

    This tiny country packs a powerful punch. Yerevan is small and easy to maneuver. It is an up and coming destination you should have on your radar. I highly recommend it. Yerevan Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

    Bond Historic Neighborhood of Yerevan

    This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Yerevan.

    We love it when you pin and share and comment about our posts. Be sure and come back next Friday for our post about Tbilisi Georgia.

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review The Feather Thief by Kirk Johnson

    What a story. Short, easy to read non-fiction, yet engrossing and feels like a true crime novel. I was captivated. Here is my Book Review The Feather Thief by Kirk Johnson

    Birds of a Feather

    Since I fancy myself an amateur birdwatcher, this book really captivated me with some of the history of the fashion rage of the 1800’s that made many birds extinct or nearly. This part of the story will make me even more keenly aware, as we bird watch endangered aviary around the world. Johnson takes the reader through historical accounts from Darwin and Alfred Russel Wallace’s theory’s to climate change and extinction. This, side by side with a remarkable tale of one man’s obsession with feathers, fly-tying and obtaining rare and illegal bird skins.

    Who is Edwin Rist

    This is a true story, but so absurd it is hard to believe. Much of this book reminded me of The Art Thief by Michael Finkle which is also a true story of a brilliant yet deranged young man named Stephane Breitwieser who gets away with stealing art from museums for years.

    Edwin Rist, the young man in the Feather Thief, is a brilliant, flutist and champion fly-tyer. Rist decides to break into the British Natural History Museum in Tring, where he single handedly steals nearly 300 birds from the rare and priceless bird collection. All in one night.

    Why Steal Dead Birds?

    Rist had become deeply engaged in the obsessive world of salmon fly-tyers, an industry of men who will pay significant dollars to obtain the feathers they covet for their art of fly-tying. Rist shamelessly steals the birds, sells the feathers and the skins of some of the rarest and oldest specimens on the planet. With no remorse.

    Kirk W. Johnson will himself become obsessed with Rist and the heist and the pursuit of justice. Johnson will spend years researching the files, looking for the missing birds and eventually interviewing Rist himself. The culmination will be this bizarre story of this shocking crime and the man with singular obsession with feathers who gets away with the crime.

    *****Five stars for The Feather Thief by Kirk W. Johnson.

    Thank you for reading my Book Review The Feather Thief by Kirk Johnson

    See last week’s book review The Berry Pickers by Amanda Peters.

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    Europe Travel

    A Visit to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia

    Location: Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia

    What a pleasant surprise. A beautiful spot on a beautiful lake. North Macedonia is not on many American’s radars as a destination. Most of its visitors are coming from Europe. But this emerging destination deserves consideration. Our visit was brief, but I’m so glad we came. Here are my thoughts on A Visit to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia.

    The Fortress and the Old Town Ohrid

    North Macedonia

    What’s in a name? Well the people of North Macedonia have a lot to say about the name of their country. Macedonia is a regional name for a large region of the Balkans that today makes up northern Greece and the current North Macedonia.

    Since antiquity the name has been used to identify both the region and the people. When today’s North Macedonia broke free of Yugoslavia in 1991 the name dispute reignited with Greece when the new Republic claimed the name The Socialist Republic of Macedonia. Over the next 25 years tensions escalated over the name with Greece insisting on a geographic qualifier. Negotiators from the UN helped to resolve the dispute finally in 2018 and the new name became North Macedonia.

    Dotted line shows “Macedonia”

    Yet today, many local people feel cheated of what they believe to be the true name – Macedonia. But, for the purposes of this blog post, I will use the current official name recognized by the government and the United Nations – North Macedonia.

    Lake Ohrid

    This gorgeous lake is 138 square miles, and is shared between Albania and North Macedonia. The majority of the 300-metre-deep lake however is in North Macedonia. It is considered to be one of the oldest lakes in the world – 3-5 million years. It is fed primarily by underground springs. Learn more about it here.

    Lake Ohrid

    Lake Ohrid is 139km from Tirana Albania – you could visit on a day trip. We however wanted to stay longer, so we booked an Airbnb in the village of Ohrid. What a great spot…one of the few lodgings directly on the lake.

    Room with a View
    Shared patio

    Things to Do

    We visited in mid April and the “season” had not really started. Busy season is May – September when tourists flock to the beautiful lake to swim, boat, fish and enjoy the sun. During our four day visit we had three perfect weather days, but the final day was raining and stormy. The lake sits at 695 meters above sea level.

    Looking across the lake to Old Town Ohrid with the fortress on top

    Sveti Naum

    We crossed the border from Albania at the south end of the lake. This is a lesser-used border crossing but we had time and wanted to circle the lake. Our first stop after arriving in North Macedonia was the beautiful Sveti Naum, an ancient monastery founded by the Bulgarian Empire in 905. This is a gorgeous spot, with shops and restaurants too. Parking is $1 and entrance to the Monastery is free. Don’t miss this when visiting Lake Ohrid. It is possible to come here by boat from the town of Ohrid. It is an hour and half boat ride.

    Sveti Naum
    Spring water lagoon that feeds Lake Ohrid at Sveti Naum

    Bay of Bones Museum

    Heading north from Sveti Naum it’s a short drive to the Bay of Bones Museum. An authentic reconstruction of a pile dwelling settlement, at the excavation site of Ploca Micov Kamen, near Gradishte and Pestani along the Ohrid coast. We found it to be a bit run down, but the $1 entry fee was acceptable.

    Bay of Bones Museum
    Reconstruction of home
    Reconstruction of ancient over the water village, Ohrid

    A very interesting history dating back between 1200 and 700 BC. The lake was quite shallow around this period, which allowed for a massive wooden structure to be erected above the water, considered by many as one of the largest prehistoric palafittes. Definitely worth a visit despite the current state of repairs. It is also possible to visit Bay of Bones by boat from the town of Ohrid.

    Ohrid

    The town of Ohrid, is both historically significant and the largest city on the lake – the eighth largest city in North Macedonia. The old town is beautiful, rising on a knoll above the lake, while the new town spreads through the valley. Primarily a tourism destination, it is both a cultural and natural UNESCO World Heritage site, often referred to as the Jerusalem of the Balkans. The lake is one of the most bio-diverse lakes in the world.

    We took a lovely boat ride on the lake on a beautiful day

    Lake-related activities are the big draw, especially in the summer. Multiple boats of all sizes ply the waters. Although it was too cold to swim in April, swimming is a popular summer pastime. The Ohrid Summer Festival, a music festival mid July to mid August draws thousands.

    View of Ohrid from the mountain

    The Fortress of King Samuel

    Sitting like a crown atop the small mountain overlooking the Lake, this imposing fortress makes a spectacular sight. The 10th century fortress was built as the first capital of the Bulgarian Empire. Although it is called King Samuel’s Fortress, recent archaeological discoveries have shown it was constructed into a grand fortress by King Philip II of Macedonia, Alexander the Great’s father.

    Fortress of King Samuel
    Fortress walls

    Church of Saint Sophia

    One of North Macedonia’s most prominent monuments, the 1000 year old church is nestled in the old town, right next to our Airbnb. The beautiful church is considered one of the finest medieval churches in Macedonia. You must visit this gem when in Ohrid.

    Saint Sofia
    Church of Saint Sofia (Canva)

    Church of St. John at Kaneo

    This was my favorite of the many historic sites of Ohrid. A stunning location, Saint John the Theologian is a Macedonian Orthodox church situated on the cliff over Kaneo Beach overlooking Lake Ohrid. The church is dedicated to John of Patmos, the writer of Revelation, who has been by some considered to be the same person as John the Apostle. The construction date of the church remains unknown but documents detailing the church property suggest that it was built before the year 1447. Archaeologists believe that the church was constructed some time before the rise of the Ottoman Empire very likely in the 13th century. Restoration work in 1964 led to the discovery of frescoes in its dome.

    What a view
    Church of Saint John at Kaneo
    Wow

    Ohrid Old Town

    The beautiful historic architecture of the old town is worth just wandering about the cobbled streets of the old town. Tumbling down the hillside from the fortress above, the old town is home to many residents, as well as hidden restaurants and lodging.

    Parts of the original wall remains
    Seeing the Old Town from the water is a must

    Ohrid Pedestrian Areas

    The new town has a lovely pedestrian walkway along the shore of the lake. We used this as our morning running route, following the path for more than two miles one way. Additionally a pedestrian shopping area is popular with locals and visitors. Great shops where you can buy the famous Ohrid Pearls, other souvenirs, groceries, and much more. Dozens of restaurants are available in this area serving the traditional Macedonian cuisine of the region as well as other options.

    Along the pedestrian walkway
    Pedestrian shopping area
    So many dining options and my favorite Shopska Salad

    The Hills are Alive

    The beautiful hills and mountains surrounding the lake have options for hiking and enjoying nature. We did an 8 mile round trip up to the tiny village of Ramne. There wasn’t much happening in Ramne but we enjoyed the view. We were fascinated by the flora including the wild lilacs and spotted several new birds.

    Hiking in the mountains around Ohrid
    Great view from the top

    A Visit to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia

    We loved a perfect, relaxing four days in Ohrid and recommend it. As a stop to other destinations or as a destination on its own, you will enjoy a visit to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia. Stunning scenery, amazing history, delicious food and friendly locals. It’s time to get to know North Macedonia.

    One of the locals and a very old Yugo

    This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Ohrid

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    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review No Two Persons by Erica Bauermeister

    Original. That’s the word I saw over and over on other reviews about this book by New York Times best selling author Erica Bauermeister. It was that and more. A unique story, or ten stories if you will. Here is my Book Review No Two Persons by Eric Bauermeister.

    Dysfunctional Family

    Using dysfunctional family in a novel is nothing new. But Bauermeister takes that thread and runs with it with ten seemingly unrelated characters and ten seemingly unrelated stories. It’s all about a book, and how a book, a really good book, can connect, heal, and save all that is broken.

    Theo

    Alice has wanted to write since she can remember. But her tyrant father and her meek mother are never encouraging. Her only real family is her brother who she loves dearly and who believes in her. When tragedy strikes, Alice life is in shambles and she thinks she will never write anything. Through the process of grief and healing she is guided by a steadfast professor, dealing with his own family drama, and eventually Alice finds Theo. Theo opens her creative juices and a story is born. But developing the story of Theo is no easy task…finding a publisher also no easy task. Alice pulls one final thread on a wing and a prayer.

    The Book

    Once Theo finds it’s publisher Bauermeister begins to introduce the reader to a list of seemingly unrelated characters; a free fall diver, a book store clerk, a homeless high school student, a Hollywood actor, a literary agent, a struggling artist, a care taker, an intimacy coach. How can one book, about a boy named Theo touch so many lives in infinite ways? Bauermeister makes it happen in No Two Persons.

    End

    Don’t expect a big happy party at the end where everyone becomes connected…I really liked that about this book. Though there are threads of connections through out, some threads stronger than others, most of these individual stories are individual…how life’s trials can mend through time, tenacity and stories…a connection we can make to others who we may never even meet.

    *****Five stars for No Two Persons by Erica Bauermeister. Thank you for reading my Book Review No Two Persons by Erica Bauermeister.

    See last week’s book review Possession by A.S. Byatt.

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