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Fab South America Travel

    Fab South America Travel

    Wild Whitewater Memories

    Location: Chile

    If you follow my blog closely, you are aware of the overriding theme of adventure; particularly my desire in My Fabulous Fifties to never be afraid to try things.

    And the day we rafted the whitewater of the gorgeous Rio Petrohue outside of Puerto Vasa in central Chile was a testament to that mantra.

    From Puerto Mont we traveled by van about an hour to the lakeside town of Puerto Varas, a beautiful town settled in 1854 by German immigrants on the shores of the huge (338 square miles) Lake Llanquihue. Though the day was overcast it was warmish and comfortable.

    I have river-rafted before, but it’s been about 15 years. I was younger and thinner and, well, younger. Yesterday in the van on the way to the river trip I said to my husband, “I don’t plan on getting wet”. He smiled at me. He knew. The river had its own plans.

    Whitewater rafting

    In the washing machine

    Our guides were fantastic, funny and well informed (www.kokayak.cl). http://kokayak.clWe dressed in skin tight and less than flattering wet-suites. As I pulled on my neoprene garment that presented me as a large black and red sausage I took note of the other guests in our group. My husband and I were definitely the oldest (important note for future reference), with another couple from England closely behind us in age. There was a single woman, from the U.S., probably in her mid-forties and a bit larger than I am, and then the rest of the group of 16 was made up by twenty and thirty-something’s from China, Germany, France, and various other countries.

    Whitewater rafting

    Good advice

    After a brief safety instruction we settled into our two rafts along the beautiful river that flows out of a high lake in the Andes behind the active volcano of Mount Osorno (a perfect Mount Fuji looking cone) and the dormant Mount Tronador at more than 11,000 feet it resembled Mount Rainier and is a hikers paradise. The terrain of the area is covered in black volcanic ash and the river is lined with a variety of deciduous trees ranging from bamboo to beech as well as gigantic gunera.
    Stunning.

    We maneuvered the raft out into the river and within the first three minutes we were completely soaked from the first set of rapids. Exciting and exhilarating and as I said, the river had other ideas about my staying dry. It wasn’t cold, thanks to the sausage suit, and we were all laughing and trying to catch our breath after the first rapid.

    I was stationed in the back of the boat and on the second set of rapids I popped off my seat and went flying into the woman in front of me, but managed to stay in the boat. As we maneuvered through the river it became easier to read the rapids and be more prepared for what was coming. At a couple of really mean looking areas of whitewater our guide had us all get down on the floor of the boat and hang on – and luckily for that, as we were completely engulfed in the washing machine of the river. We came up sputtering and laughing and disoriented; but still in the raft.

    Whitewater rafting

    Still smiling!

    We slowed and pulled the rafts into a calm area and we all got out and hiked up to a rocky outcropping, where the guides announced we were going to all jump off the cliff and into the river one by one so they could take our photo. Guests younger and fitter than I declined. Not me. Fabulously Fifty went flying off the cliff in her red and black sausage suite, hitting the water with a big splash and a big smile. Fabulous.

    Back in the boat, switching positions, we flowed down the river. We continued to be beat-up by the rapids, but always coming out soaked and happy. In the calmer spots our guide gave us some history and talked about the geography, flora and fauna. He talked about Chile, the food, the wine and much more. It was wonderful.

    Approaching the final set of smaller rapids he announced that anyone who wanted to jump over board and ride the rapids feet first down in the water was welcome to do it here. Everyone looked around at each other – who would volunteer? Guess who?

    Myself and my husband and two of the twenty-somethings jumped in and were swept up in the whirlpool. Perhaps because I have a high body fat content (nice way of saying it) I was quickly carried off ahead of the others. I was pounded in the face over and over by the rapids and had a moment of panic, as I was unable to get a breath between poundings.

    Whitewater rafting

    Fashion Statement

    It was over quickly and I hadn’t even had a chance to see what any of the other guests had done as I was swept down stream. Next thing I knew I was the only one left in the water and the raft was heading to pick me up. My darling husband somehow hoisted me up and into the raft where I lay panting and gasping. I announced to everyone in the boat “I sure hope someone got a picture because that was never going to happen again.” Everyone laughed at my expense and it was fabulous.

    These are the experiences that make life memorable. Those who didn’t get out of the boat to ride the rapids will have the memory of watching me do it. But I will have the experience of it. Worth a thousand times more.

    Put me in the middle of the action until they cart me away. Let me set an example. Let me never be afraid to look silly, have fun, and come up sputtering on the other side. There is no other way to live in My Fabulous Fifties.

    Go. Be. Fabulous.

    This blog contains affiliate links and I may receive a commission if you purchase these books.  Any money earned goes back to help improve this blog.  Thank you.

     

     

    Fab South America Travel

    Ancient Mysterious Easter Island

    Location: Easter Island

    Ancient Mysterious Easter Island.  Worth the effort it takes to get here.

    Everything about Rapa Nui was stunning, but like most visitors I had my favorites. And like most visitors my two favorite sites were the Ranu Raraku quarry site and the Ahu Tongariki.   Upon laying your eyes on these two sites for the first time you conjure a list of adjectives; breathtaking, fascinating, interesting, surprising, remarkable. At one point I had to just stop and breathe deep – and remind myself how

    The Quarry Site

    The Quarry Site

    remarkable it all was, and how remarkable it was that I was standing there.

    A lifelong dream – It did not disappoint.

    In all the years I had seen pictures of Easter Island, it was the photos of the scattered moai of the Ranu Raraku quarry that struck me most. I honestly didn’t understand the significance of the quarry site until I was standing there. Up until that point I thought the moai I had seen photos of were placed at this site for a reason. Not the case.

    All the moai at this site, nearly 400 statues, were in some stage of carving. It was the moai factory and it’s clearly evident there was significant work going on in the “tuff” – the volcanic stone found on this IMG_8557mountain. Today as we stand among the discarded statues in various stages of completeness the question that goes through your mind is why? What happened for the moai carving at the quarry to end so abruptly? Why are these hundreds of unfinished statues here? Where were they meant to eventually go? Including the largest moai  carved out of this mountain, the 69 foot tall giant that sits abandoned in his bed of stone.

    A lifelong dream – So many new questions.

    Walking among the stone statues you see the carved faces standing at different angles. Some were already on the move. Others toppled face down. Others still attached to the mountain, never given the opportunityfor the carver to finish the job. Fascinating.

    The largest moai ever found - 69 feet

    The largest moai ever found – 69 feet

    Archeologists believe all tribes shared this quarry and that each moai could take up to 2 years to carve. A master carver would work with a crew, perhaps family members of the person the moai was memorializing.

    All statues were carved face up, with the carver doing the facial features of the moai before finally chipping it away and releasing it from the mountain. The moai would then be slid down the mountain before being lowered over a ledge and tilted up right. At this point final details on the back of the moai would be completed before the statue would begin the “walk” to its destination. If the moai toppled, either in the quarry or along the route, the “mana” would be released and it would be abandoned – the family would need to begin the process all

    Seeing the quarry as you approach from the road

    Seeing the quarry as you approach from the road

    over.

     

    One of the most interesting facts we learned from our host and guide Paul (http://www.tekarera.com/accommo.htm) was that these statues, which seem to just be heads, all have full bodies under ground. Over the hundreds of years the moai have stood at attention waiting patiently, the soil has eroded and moved and covered their lower bodies, nearly up to their necks. Archaeologists think it is better to keep them buried to preserve them longer from the harsh elements of the island.

    Walking near the highest point of the quarry you survey the scene below; scattered moais all about; the ocean in the near distance; and then you see it – Ahu Tongariki and your breath catches. From on top the quarry, Ahu

    The view of Tongariki from high up on the quarry site

    The view of Tongariki from high up on the quarry site

    Tongariki looks like chess pieces for a giant’s chess game, in the valley below.

    A lifelong dream – A surreal image.

    Ahu Tongariki is the largest ahu that has been restored on the island, and one of the most recent, being completed in 1996. The massiveness of this site is mind-boggling. Clearly a powerful family history memorialized  in these 15 restored moai and the surrounding unrestored statues, petroglyphs and site. Ahu Tongariki is the largest ceremonial altar anywhere in Polynesia.

    A lifelong dream – We visited this site three different times during our time on Rapa Nui.

    It’s unknown when the moai of Ahu Tongariki were first toppled, but it is known that a massive 9.5

    The entrance to Tongariki

    The entrance to Tongariki

    earthquake in 1960 in Chile resulted in a tsunami wave as high as 11 meters that engulfed this side of the island and carried the moai that were laying face down, even further inland. When restoration began in 1992 (incredibly funded by the Japanese government and a private Japanese businessman but conducted by the University of Chile and Archaeologist Claudio Cristino) the moai were in bad shape.

    Today, looking at this beautiful exhibit of historic significance nestled in this incredibly gorgeous setting; it’s hard to imagine what it must have looked like back then. The 2 million dollar restoration has created one of the most iconic sites I have ever seen.

    During our week on Easter Island watching the sunrise at Tongariki was a highlight. Well worth the vacation alarm clock. A once in a lifetime view.

    Sunrise at Tongariki

    Sunrise at Tongariki

     

    A lifelong dream – Everyone should try to see it.

    I know not everyone has the means or even the desire to travel to Easter Island. But if you do I recommend staying at least five days. We were there six days and wished we had a couple more days to do more hiking. You want to see the sites on “island time”, and slow down and enjoy the laid back Rapanui lifestyle. I can’t imagine visiting for only 6 hours as part of a cruise ship – it just would not be worth it. Stay for a week, visit our friend Paul at Tekarera Hotel, and slow down to Rapa Nui pace.

    A lifelong dream.

     

     

     

    Fab South America Travel

    Iorana Rapa Nui – Seeing is Believing

    Location: Easter Island

    Seeing is Believing

     

    IMG_1869

    The Tahai site

    There are numerous theories. Some hotly debated; others proven wrong. Still others, developing. Will we ever really know for sure how those ancient people managed it? How in the world did they move the giant statues (moai) of Easter Island 15 miles or more and what happened to the ancient people and their society?

     

    I have spent the last week on this surprisingly beautiful island and I have been inspired and informed. What a most remarkable place it is. I feel so blessed to have been witness to it; knowing how few people will ever stand among the stone statues. To have been one is a true blessing.

     

    By luck or fate, I know not which, we booked a hotel owned by an American man who has spent most of his life studying and restoring and developing his own theories of Rapa Nui and the statues. Paul Pownall (http://www.tekarera.com/tour.htm) imparted to us a wealth of information that our curious minds devoured and had us asking for more. Paul’s unique perspective on the culture, the history and the current Rapa Nui was a perfect mix of information, facts, stories and myths – as well as first hand knowledge.

     

    This is the first in a series of blogs I will post regarding our amazing time on Rapa Nui – Isla de Pascua – Easter Island. (Watch for more blogs in the days and weeks ahead as I catch up, including blogs on the moai quarry, the Birdman, hiking, caving, dogs, sunrise and of course, food).

     

    Our host Paul first came to Easter Island in 1968 at the age of 16 to spend six months with William Mulloy – one of a handful of archeologists whose work over decades on the island made an important impact.

     

    The first site we visited in our tours with Paul (we toured with Paul and also stayed at his hotel, Tekarera, http://www.tekarera.com/tour.htm) was the Tahai site. A stone’s throw from our hotel, this restored site is the closest to the town of Hanga Roa. During our week on the island we walked to town every day, sometimes multiple times a day, and always on the path right through Tahai. What a view to enjoy.

     

    IMG_1865

    The original eyes would have been coral, but these are cement replacements

    This restored moai (see photo) with the replica eyes is one that is often photographed and seen around the world. It is one of three ahu platforms at this early Rapanui village that was restored by Mulloy and his team, included our friend Paul. We learned from Paul that Tahai is a wonderful example of how the Rapanui lived in communities and families on such sites. Within the Tahai village are ruins of sleeping quarters known as “boat houses” because of their canoe shape, chicken houses, as well as other “replica” structures built recently.

     

    As the first stop in our tour, the restored moai are of course the biggest attraction as you marvel at the size of them and wonder how did they get there? Only secondary are you aware of the importance of the ahu, the raised platform on which the moai rest.

     

    IMG_1916

    Our guide and host Paul talking about the history and restoration of Tahai

    The ahu serve as an important burial ground where bones were buried after cremation. Many of the raised platform ahu are built on top of older ahu and the majority still contains remains of ancestors of the Rapanui people. The island is dotted with ahu everywhere, many without Moai, and after a few days on the island you begin to easily pick out the ahu distinctly as they are different than other random piles of rocks or lava flows once you know what you are looking for.

     

    The current most accepted theory on the how the moai were moved into place on the ahu – sometimes traveling 15 miles or more from the quarry on the other side of the island, is that they walked.

     

    The walking theory holds merit over rolling or sliding or dragging because of the condition of the moai that safely made the journey as well as the numerous deserted moai that fell from the walking position and were left behind. The walking theory uses an analogy of moving a large piece of furniture in your home and how you tilt and turn and “walk” the piece upright using many different methods depending on the terrain you need to cover.

     

    IMG_1919

    Mulloy’s Memorial

    An accepted theory is the statues were carved as a memorial to chiefs and important people on the island. The leaders possessed powerful “mana” and their descendants placed the moai always facing inward (many people believe the statures face the ocean as protectors but this is incorrect) to watch over the people with their powerful mana life force. The walking theory promotes the important Rapanui belief that ‘mana” (a life spirit) was in each moai. If the moai toppled along the route from the quarry the mana was released and the moai no longer was good.  A moai’s mana is particularly important for afterlife as the moai watched over the people and protected them.

     

    The Tahai site is a wonderful way to begin any visit to Rapa Nui and we were blessed (with pure coincidence) to choose a wonderful hotel so near to the site. We visited Tahai every day of our time on Easter Island. The Tahai village site also has a small memorial where Mulloy’s ashes are buried and he is remembered fondly for his contribution to the study and restoration of the moai and ahu of the island.

     

    IMG_1917

    The older and smaller and rounder head found in the ocean

    One additional item I found interesting at the Tahai sight was this smaller round head (see photo), which is very different in style and facial features than the standing restored moai. This head was pulled out of the water behind the large ahu and is thought to be significantly older than the others; supporting the theory that over the hundreds of years that the Rapanui culture was carving and transporting the stone moai the style changed and the skill-level developed.

     

    As I will be writing several more blogs, hopefully more in-depth, about our adventures on Easter Island I thought I should give a quick history of the island and some significant events as they are known. These facts I have lifted from the book “A Companion to Easter Island” by James Grant Peterkin.

     

    • 3 million to 750,000 years ago – the island was formed by three separate volcanic eruptions giving the island its distinctive triangular shape
    • 10,000 years ago – the last volcanic eruption – long before human inhabitants
    • 700AD – first Polynesian settlers arrived from islands of a distance of at least 2000 miles
    • 1000-1600 AD – carving of the stones began as ancestor worship. The mana of the human spirit was believed to be able to influence the outcome of events long after a person’s body left the living.
    • 1722 – while searching for Terra Australis under the flag of the Dutch West Indies Company, Jacob Roggeveen stumbled on the island on Easter Sunday, April 5, 1722. The visit of the first white explorer resulted in skirmishes that killed 12 natives and thus began a demise in the cultural history of the people
    • 1770 Spanish Explorer Felipe Gonzalez laid claim to the island for Spain but never returned to collect
    • 1774 Captain James Cook and the HMS Resolution carrying a very sick and starving crew and Captain visited the island but stayed only briefly not finding fresh water or supplies they so desperately needed
    • 1770-1838 the visit of the three previously mentioned ships began what some historians believe was the demise of the culture and tribal warfare that resulted in the moai being toppled to release the mana. However other theories, including our friend Paul’s, believe the moai were toppled as a result of earthquakes and tsunamis during this period.
    • 1838 – the final year in which outside visitors recorded seeing statues standing
    • 1862 – Peruvian ships began capturing Rapanui natives and enslaving them to work in agricultural fields in Peru. Some 1500 slaves were taken
    • 1877 – the population of Easter Island had dropped due to slave raids and small pox from a one time high of 12,000 to only 111 people. Near extinction
    • 1883 – Easter Island annexed by Chile
    • 1903-1953 – the William Balfour Company leased the island from Chile for sheep farming and actually corralled the natives and forced them to work in the sheep farming trade.
    • 1914 – Katherine Routledge and the Mana Expedition began the first archaeological survey of the island
    • 1935 – Father Sebastian Englert arrived on the island and would spend the next 34 years as a missionary priest there. He is fondly remembered even today.
    • 1953 – After WWII the Chilean Navy occupied the island
    • 1955 – Thor Heyerdahl began his archaeological expedition on the island working to prove his pre-conceived theories, some of which he proved but many he did not. Mulloy was on this team with Heyerdahl
    • 1955-1978 – Mulloy did extensive work and research and restoration on many sites on the island
    • 1956 – Heyerdahl raised the first moai back into place at Anakena
    • 1965 – the Rapanui began a new era with the election of a mayor and in 1966 were granted full Chilean citizenship
    • 1967 – the first LAN fight landed on Easter Island opening up a new world with all the good and bad that comes with it.

     

     

    If you have been to Easter Island or know additional details I encourage you to weigh in, as I am no IMG_2051historian or archeologist, rather just a curious traveler with a desire to share my experiences. I will be posting more in the days ahead.

     

    Until then, Iorana and Mauru – uru.