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Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia

Melbourne,Victoria,Australia

March 14, 2025

Laureen

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Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Our first visit to Melbourne ( prounced mel·bn) was too darn short (you can read about it here Marvelous Melbourne Australia). And so we vowed to come back for a long stay. Given Melbourne, in the Southern Hemisphere, is sporting its summer finest when we Northerners need it most, it’s perfect destination. And as we hoped, we took our leisurely time to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia during a month long visit.

Favorite Cities in the World

Melbourne ranks for us as one of our favorite cities in the world. As you know we have been blessed with traveling the world, and our favorite cities include Paris (Pop. 2.1 million), New York City (Pop.9 million), Mexico City (Pop. 22 million), Vienna (Pop. 2 million) and Melbourne (Pop. 5 million). We have more favorites, but this is our top list. Melbourne ticks all the boxes. If I could live in any of these cities, I would chose Melbourne. You really need to visit.

Beautiful Melbourne – perfect climate, beautiful, historic and wonderful people

I realize most people would not stay a month in Melbourne. So as you plan your trip, take a look at all of our suggestions here, and pick and choose what you find of interest. There really is something for everyone. I am happy to answer any questions you might have.

How Ya Going

In Australia they say How Ya Going as a greeting and salutation. Well, when I am in Melbourne and the greater Victoria area, I am always going fine. The city is cosmopolitan with art, theater, museums, dining and recreation of all kinds. It is close to easy day trips with wonderful natural beauty. The people are down to earth, friendly and proud. Melbourne has it all. Let me tell you what I loved the most.

Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia

What’sOn Melbourne

As a frequent traveler and a former tourism marketing guru, I have so much appreciation for an all-encompassing website for activities and sites in any city. A local website that is up to date and accurate. And a big shout-out to What’sOn Melbourne, seriously the best all round, easy to use website I have ever discovered for a destination. Start your planning for a visit to Melbourne with this outstanding website.

Don’t miss a visit to the Block Arcade in the CBD

Favorite Things in the City

Our Airbnb was a little ways outside the city in a small neighborhood called Altona. Melbourne has a great train system, tram system and bus system. For your stay I recommend purchasing the Myki card for easy use. We also used Uber during our stay, and we had a car. Additionally for fun we took the…

Williamstown Ferry & The Yarra River

We met new friends thanks to Instagram and they took us into the city on a beautiful sunny day via the Williamstown ferry. The ferry goes back and forth between quaint little Williamstown right to the CBD. Its price of $35 Aussie ($27) and limited schedule makes it more of tourist boat than a commuter boat. If you have the time though, it’s great way to see the skyline and the river walk from the water. But if you don’t take a ferry or river boat cruise, enjoy the river walk to get a real feel for how important the Yarra River is to Melbourne. It’s an easy and interesting walk – learn more about it here.

On the Williamstown Ferry approaching the CBD through the Yarra River

So Many Museums

Like any big city Melbourne is home to many museums. More than we could see even during our long stay. We learned excellent history and nature information from the Melbourne Museum and loved our visit to the Melbourne Gaol. Another favorite, the Koorie Heritage Trust, was excellent for a small presentation of local Aboriginal art by modern artists. We spent couple of hours at the NGV (National Gallery Victoria) Australia enjoying its wide range of art. I would say we particularly enjoyed the Indigenous collection. These last two museums are free and are located in Federation Square, a local gathering place across the street from the historic Flinders Station. Both an integral part of the city.

Royal Exhibition Building

The Royal Exhibition Building built in the late 1800’s is an iconic piece of Melbourne’s history. Though parts are under restoration, the old lady has seen much of Melbourne’s most important people and events through the generations. Today it serves as an event space and museum, and with advance tickets you can have a tour that includes the rooftop dome. I’m so glad we did that. One of the few things we did that was not free so get your tickets online.

Melbourne Laneways

I know some cities have similar “alley” type spaces, but I have never seen anything so fun, festive and beautiful as the famous Melbourne Laneways. A result of Melbourne’s early grid layout, the laneways have become a thriving business area for locals and visitors. Many famous laneways, including Hosier Lane, Degraves Street, Hardware Lane, Meyers Place and Flinders Lane are known for their street art, cafes, shops, grafitti and bars. Through out the year festivals within the lane ways draw even bigger crowds. This is a perfect pedestrian area and one of my favorite parts of this beautiful city.

Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia

We have only tapped the surface as we Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia. There is much more to see:

Royal Botanic Gardens

Throughout all our travel in Australia we have been astonished by the abundance of stunning and FREE Botanical Gardens everywhere we have gone. And Melbourne’s Royal Botanic Gardens is the best. You can spend a couple hours or an entire day. Qantas Airlines calls it the number one thing to see in the entire country. I wouldn’t go that far, but it is an absolute not-to-miss destination when you want to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia.

Markets

Melbourne is home to many markets, some seasonal. Our favorite is the South Melbourne Market for both shopping and dining. On both our visits to Melbourne we have grazed through the many restaurants located in the South Melbourne Market. It’s a great place to people watch. The other large market in Melbourne is the Queen Victoria Market. In the summer they have a night market on Wednesday nights and we really enjoyed that on this recent visit.

Getting our produce at the South Melbourne Market

Grazing through the South Melbourne Market

Australian Rules Football

With all the time we have spent in Australia we still had not experienced the spectacle that is Australian Rules Football. It is not American Football. Nor is it soccer. It is not rugby but similar. Here is what Wikipedia says;

The Melbourne Cricket Grounds is also home to AFL

We had a great time learning about this sport

Australian rules football, also called Australian football or Aussie rules,^[2] or more simply football or footy, is a contact sport played between two teams of 18 players on an oval field, often a modified cricket ground. Points are scored by kicking the oval ball between the central goal posts (worth six points), or between a central and outer post (worth one point, otherwise known as a “behind”).

We had a blast. I highly recommend it. Find tickets here.

Festivals & Events

It’s impossible for me to list the thousands of festivals and events this city has. During our short visit we attended a Greek Festival, a Nepalese Festival, Moomba (one of Melbournes oldest festivals), and witnessed the annual Melbourne Grand Prix Formula One event. Just a few others include concerts, wine and food festival, history tours, live theater and many, many more. For the most up-to-date information you want to bookmark WhatsOn Melbourne.

Riding the historic Steamrail during the Moomba Festival

Just Outside the City

Saint Kilda

There are many neighborhoods just outside of the CBD that are worth a visit. Saint Kilda is a gorgeous beachfront town with a new pier that everyone should see. Stroll the esplanade and enjoy drinks and dining at one of the many delicious options, both waterfront and throughout the town. On weekends you really need a reservation. See our restaurant favs below. I highly recommend Saint Kilda.

People watching with a cool drink on a hot St. Kilda day

Williamstown

Williamstown, not as posh as Saint Kilda, is where we caught the ferry into the CBD (see above) and is a quiet, historic port town that is residential with a small downtown area. Great views of Melbourne from the Williamstown waterfront, also the location of the ferry to Tasmania and other destinations. We visited the Bathtub Gin Distillery on a recommendation from our friends and really loved it.

Altona

Altona, primarily a residential area and also very industrial, is home to our Airbnb . We had great access to Altona Beach and the beautiful Altona Walking Trails. The small town center near the waterfront has a handful of restaurants, grocery, post office and more. Short drive from our Airbnb to the train station.

Brighton Beach

A little further south of Saint Kilda is the iconic beach town of Brighton Beach. Renowned for its long sandy beaches, fabulous mansions and above all the historic and brightly colored Bathing Boxes. This is one of the main reasons Brighton is frequented by visitors to Melbourne. We enjoyed an afternoon on the beach and the water was so very warm.

Day Trips or Further

Discover the Wonder of Melbourne and the surrounding Victoria area with day trips or an over night visit to many stunning areas. These are the ones we can highly recommend;

One Hour From Melbourne

Geelong

We visited Geelong on our way to The Great Ocean Road but it would also make a wonderful day trip from Melbourne. Geelong has a beautiful waterfront esplanade, a protected swimming area, historic carousel, and historic Victorian homes. But my favorite thing was the Baywalk Bollards, quirky and fun depictions of people and history, there are 100 bollards scattered along the waterfront.

90 Minutes from Melbourne

Bendigo

We went to Bendigo to learn a bit about the important Gold Mine history of the Victoria region. We did that by visiting the Central Deborah Gold Mine and touring the underground mine. The gold rush boom town is home to beautiful Victorian architecture and a thriving arts district and CBD. We only spent part of the day here but I am really glad we did,

Down Under, Down Under at the Central Deborah Gold Mine

Yarra Valley

Depending on the traffic and on what part of the Yarra Valley you are headed, it will take around 90min or a bit more to arrive in this beautiful place. Northwest of Melbourne and home to the regions finest wines, with an emphasis on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We did a wine tasting at Punt Road Winery and Cider tasting at their sister Napoleon Cider. We enjoyed both as well as the lovely grounds and service.

The cider featured Cosmic Crisp Apples, a Washington State developed apple.

After wine tasting we had an amazing meal at Meltetos (more below) one of dozens of first class dining establishments around the wine region. Highly recommend.

Meletos was such a beautiful site and delicious too

Two Hours from Melbourne

Portsea and Point Nepean National Park on the Mornington Peninsula

We took a day trip out the Mornington Peninsula with a stop in Portsea to walk “Millionaires Walk” on a cliff that fronts incredible mansions. Then on to Point Nepean National Park, a historic site of a Quarantine area for immigrants and a beautiful ocean view. The point is home to The Rip, considered one of the world’s most dangerous sea passages and the mouth to Port Philip Bay and eventually Melbourne.

Quarantine Station at Point Nepean National Park

Silos

Through out much of Victoria and also in South Australia there is a wonderful collection of painted silos, each with their own story. We visited three different silo sites on our day trip to Bendigo. I learned about the silos from my fellow travel blogger Sharyn (see her blog here about Victoria’s Silo Art). If you want to explore more about these amazing works of art learn more about out the Silo Art Trail here. You can visit several easily from Melbourne in a few hours or take more time to travel farther afield.

Three Hours from Melbourne

Wilson’s Promontory National Park

We actually combined Wilson’s Promontory National Park and Raymond Island (see below) into a two day overnight road trip. But both could be done as a day trip from Melbourne. Wilson’s Promontory is a very large park with stunning views and beaches. If you are a hiker I certainly recommend it.

High above the ocean, Wilson’s Promontory

Squeaky Beach, Wilson’s Promontory National Park

Four Hours from Melbourne

Raymond Island

Visiting Raymond Island was one of my favorite things in the greater Melbourne area. Closer to Melbourne you could visit Phillip Island instead, but there is no guarantee you will see koalas there. At Raymond it is nearly guaranteed you will see koalas in the wild. And that is what I wanted to see. So we made this an overnight trip, but you could do it as a very long day trip (3+ hour drive one-way) from Melbourne. A tiny ferry shuttles you across the narrow channel to the island. It’s an easy walk into the forest where we saw a dozen different koalas, new-to-us birds, and breathed the eucalyptus air during our three hour visit. This is a must do.

The ferry to Raymond is free for walk ons. You do not need a car on the island.

Overnight Road Trip

The Great Ocean Road

Please read the blog I wrote The Great Ocean Road Melbourne Australia to see in-depth information about our two-day road trip from Melbourne to Peterborough and back. I highly recommend you see this road and try not do it in one day. Two days would be safer and more enjoyable. Take your time and discover.

Hungry?

Melbourne is home to a wide array of fabulous restaurants with a taste and a price for everyone. Though, as we always do, we cooked at home a lot, with a wide variety of excellent grocery stores near by. But we also enjoyed MANY wonderful Melbourne restaurants during our 30 day visit. Click on the link and make reservations when you can. Here is list of some of our favorites:

Big Esso – Aboriginal – try the Green Ant Gin and Tonic

Rice Paper Scissors – Asian with a flare. One of the best meals we had in Melbourne.

Farmer’s Daughters – Small but amazing seasonal menu.

Delicious Fish of the Day at Farmer’s Daughters

Meletos – in the Yarra Valley was a perfect place to enjoy a sunny day after wine tasting.

Radio Mexico – our second visit in Saint Kilda. It’s the real thing.

The Waiters Restaurant, also called the Italian Waiters Club – we visited on our last time in Melbourne and I can’t recommend it enough. No website. Call for reservation.

Yarra Botanica – right on the river walk perfect for people watching although there is much better food in the city.

Bekka – Lebanese and delicious in the Melbourne neighborhood of Moonie Ponds

The Waiters is a must visit when in Melbourne. Definitely call for a reservation at this historic and popular place.

Right at Home

It was our sincerest pleasure to return to Australia for the third time and Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia. Through out this country we have met the kindest people, enjoyed a great exchange rate, learned fascinating history and marveled at the jaw dropping scenery and nature. It is a place unlike anywhere else in the world. And we feel right at home. It ticks all the boxes for us, and we can’t wait to visit again, hopefully in 2027.

Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia

Until then, thank you once again Australia. Good on ya Mate. You have my heart.

Thanks for reading my post Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia. See last week’s post The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia.

Abundance of Wildlife is one of the best things when you come to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia

Please note, we will not have a travel blog post for the next few weeks as we now embark on our Bhutan Adventure. I hope to be posting regularly on Instagram while in Bhutan so follow along. Stay tuned for more about Bhutan in the week’s ahead.

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Asia & Oceania Travel

The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia

Amazing Australia

March 7, 2025

Laureen

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Location: The Great Ocean Road, Victoria Australia

I am smitten with Australia. We are back for our third visit. This time we are spending the entire visit in the state of Victoria in and around Melbourne. Last year when we came to Melbourne (read about that visit here) we thought it was amazing, and did not have enough time to do and see everything we wanted. So we are back for a full-month. Next week I will share a blog post in depth about our favorite things around Melbourne. But today I am going to tell you what I loved most about The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia.

Where Are We?

Victoria is the second smallest state in Australia. We have been lucky enough to visit all but one of Australia’s seven states. South Australia remains on the bucket list, and we will visit there next time. Victoria, although one of the smallest states, is home to Australia’s largest city of Melbourne. It is also home to the historic and famous Great Ocean Road.

The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia

History

The Great Ocean Road is an Australian National Heritage-listed 240-kilometre (150 mi) stretch of road along the south-eastern coast of Australia, between the Victorian towns of Torquay and Allansford. Built by returned soldiers between 1919 and 1932, and dedicated to soldiers killed during World War I, the road is the world’s largest war memorial. Winding through varying terrain along the coast, and providing access to several prominent landmarks, including the Twelve Apostles limestone stack formations, the road is an important tourist attraction. (Wikipedia)

Tourism

The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia is one of Australia’s top tourist destinations. Visitors each year total 2.8 million, most of those domestic and about 250,000 international. These numbers have taken a toll on the road and its sites. Currently roadwork and additional parking and facilities are underway near the famous and most visited, 12 Apostles site.

We visited mid-week in summer and did not find it too crowded. In fact we had several sites all to ourselves. The park service has provided parking, walk ways, view points, signage and in a few cases, public restrooms for visitors

Our Route

Our two-day route did not cover the entire Great Ocean Road

We took two days to travel from Melbourne to just beyond Peterborough and back. There is more to The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia, but this is the section we visited. I would love to see more of this beautiful place on our next visit to Australia. Here are my recommendations;

Geelong

Technically not on the Great Ocean Road, Geelong is a beautiful port city about an hour’s drive from Melbourne. It’s easy to add Geelong to a Great Ocean Road tour, or make it a day-trip from Melboune.

We did a lovely stroll along the Waterfront esplanade enjoying the views. At the Eastern Beach we sat and had coffee on a stunning bluebird day. Scattered along The Waterfront are the Baywalk Bollards, colourful sculptures chronicling city history. We really loved this place and think it would be great for a night or two.

I want to be a Baywalk Bollard when I grow up

Kennett River

A very easy river walk, the Kennett River Walk provides opportunity to spot many birds and, if you are lucky, koala. We had seen koala in reserves and conservation area during our past visits, but we had never seen one in “the wild”. So it was a treat to spot a large koala high up in the trees doing what koalas do…sleeping.

We also saw a Kookaburra and many other beautiful birds. The park has parking, a small store and picnic tables.

Let’s Take a Walk

Great Ocean Walk

The Great Ocean Walk is a one-way 110km walk that takes hikers through a wide range of historically significant and natural regions of this part of Victoria. But on this day we walked about 5k of it. The first half of the way, which we began from the parking lot of the Otway Light, was lots of scrub bushes. I was disappointed because I had been expecting expansive views. Well, wait a minute. We turned a corner and crested a small ridge to find ourselves high above the stunning ocean. What a treat. Should we come back and walk all 110km? This trail is part of the Great Otway National Park.

Mait’s Rest Rainforest Walk

This little place, Mait’s Rest Rainforest Walk was a big surprise. A short boardwalk hike through some of Australia’s oldest surviving trees as well as a wide array of other beautiful flora. Additionally we saw lots of birds including one new to us little beauty – Australian Rufous Fantail – a real stunner. Mait’s Rest Rainforest is part of the Great Otway National Park.

Screenshot from Merlin of an Australian Rufous Fantail

Clifton Beach Lodge

About 15 min before reaching Port Campbell and perfectly located to the Great Ocean Road National Park sights, is the darling Clifton Beach Lodge. Not on the beach, but rather in a peaceful farm setting, we loved our tiny one bedroom cabin and wished we could have stayed longer. Full kitchen and comfy bed in our unit but larger units are also available. We booked this on Booking.com . Our two person cabin was $120 USD.

Port Campbell

The day was waning and the sun was getting low in the sky, so we made haste to Port Campbell where we had a delicious Aussie style Fish and Chip dinner with a view at 12 Rocks. We took a quick spin around this darling town, population 500, which offers multiple lodging options. The town seems to be having a bit of a renaissance. It’s cute and road upgrades are underway. There is a wonderful public beach.

We loved the food and atmosphere at 12 Rocks

The Great Ocean Road National Park

Australia has a remarkable system of National Parks that are FREE. Well maintained and many with restrooms. It is such a treat to find these free parks for visitors and residents alike. We couldn’t wait to go check it out after dinner.

Razorback

This towering limestone stack known as Razorback is one of several amazing limestone formations at this site. We stopped here after dinner and the entire region was in a golden glow. Razorback is one of the largest stacks. Parking is good and short paved path takes you to a great view point.

The 12 Apostles

Definitely the regions most popular site due to the fact you can see about 30 limestone stacks from this vantage point. The Twelve Apostles are a collection of limestone stacks off the shore of Port Campbell National Park, by the Great Ocean Road in Victoria Australia. Their proximity to one another has made the site a popular tourist attraction. Despite their name, it is possible that there were never 12 rock stacks. Several stacks have collapsed in the last couple of decades and seven remain standing, all while other stacks will eventually be formed from rain, erosion and waves.

It is possible to walk on the beach at the 12 Apostles but only at low-tide. Access to the beach is from Gibson’s Steps.

Please note some websites say this park is open 9am-5pm. However that is the hours of the visitor center. The walkways, viewing areas and parking are open 24 hours, as are the other sites I mention in the post.

I think this is my favorite photo I took – misty air, evening gold and pink sky. Love it.

Day Two

We were greeted by a lovely sunrise and then a crystal blue sky on day two of our adventure on The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia. We were sufficiently caffeinated and headed back to The 12 Apostles to see it in a different light. I am so glad we took the time to view this incredible natural area both dressed in sunset rose and daybreak blue. Significantly fewer people at 8am than at sunset, but both times offered plenty of room for everyone to enjoy the beauty.

London Bridge

Just beyond Port Campbell to the West you will come to the viewpoint for London Bridge. Originally a natural archway and tunnel, London Bridge collapsed on 15 January 1990 and became an isolated arch no longer connected to the mainland. It was one of my favorite spots on our tour.

On the viewing platform at London Bridge

The Grotto

Our next stop, just down the road, is a weathered hollow limestone formation known as the Grotto. I have seen photos of this place with 40 people…but we had it all to ourselves. It is one of the most evocative and intimate of the coastal formations of the Great Ocean Road. Part-blowhole, part-archway, part-cave, its serene rock pools and smooth boulders frame the sea views. Parking is good, but stairs are involved to access the Grotto.

Bay of Martyrs and Bay of Islands

Our next two stops provided more expansive views of limestone stacks and their ever changing beauty. Like sculptures in the sea, I’m sure each time you visit you see something new and beautiful.

Bay of Martyrs – that’s Arne way down there

Peterborough

We made a brief stop in the tiny town of Peterborough home to one of the most beautiful stretches of gold sand beach I have ever seen. Except for a couple of surfers, the beach was unpopulated and serene.

The town was believed to have been founded when the schooner SS Schomberg was wrecked in the middle of the 19th century, but Aboriginal people were here long before.

Peterborough is a 3 hour drive from Melbourne (with no stops) and we made this our turn around point for the day.

Major Change in Scenery

As we turned north and eventually east, rural farms spotted with sheep, cows and horses replaced the crashing ocean waves. Though a different view, this scenery was bucolic with its rolling hills, brown from summer heat. It reminded me a lot of the Palouse in my home state of Washington.

Lake Cullen Merri and Lake Gnotuk

Thanks to one of my followers on Threads, we learned of this alternate route to take us high up on a hill near the town of Camperdown for this beautiful view and interesting history.

Lake Bullen Merri and its smaller northern neighbor Lake Gnotuk are a pair of crater lakes. Lake Bullen Merri has a maximum depth of 66 m (217 ft), with a clover leaf outline indicating that it was probably formed by two overlapping maar volcanoes. Historical records show that the lake water level has dropped significantly over the past 100 years. Today it is a popular recreation area. (Wikipedia)

Heading Home

After our full two days we headed back to our Airbnb just outside of the city of Melbourne, sated with the delicious wonder that is The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia. It would be easy to take an additional day or two and drive farther west along the coast, taking even more time to enjoy some of natures bounty.

The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia

Thank you for reading my post The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia. Please come back next week for more about this beautiful Victoria region and Melbourne. See you then!

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Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands

February 21, 2025

Laureen

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Location: Rarotonga Cook Islands

Kia Orana! “Kia Orana” is a Cook Islands greeting that means “may you live long” or “may you have a long and fulfilling life”. It’s more than just a greeting, it’s a wish for a good future and a core part of Cook Islands culture. This is what you will find in this tiny island nation in the middle of the South Pacific. We came with no expectations, and went away blessed by the beauty and kindness that penetrates this island. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.

Why Rarotonga?

As we planned our travels for 2025 we knew we wanted to return to Australia – one of our favorite countries in the world. Visiting Australia during their summer, is perfect for leaving behind the dreary Northern hemisphere winters

So, it was a natural fit to spend some time in Hawaii, and then take the non-stop flight Hawaiian Air offers from Honolulu to Rarotonga every Saturday. Why not? We have the time, the flight is only five hours and though not cheap, it got us closer to Australia. Cook Islands here we come.

A Few Details

The Cook Islands uses the New Zealand dollar. ATM machines are available all over and most businesses accept credit cards as well. As of this writing the NZ dollar is .57 cents per one US dollar. Very good rate for Americans.

Snorkeling is a very popular activity on Rarotonga

Our cell provider Verizon does not include The Cook Islands in their international plan. Once on the island one option is purchase the Vodaphone hotspot service for WiFi. Most hotels do not offer a separate WiFi service. We paid $35NZ for five days/50G, up to three devices. Another option is to get a Vodaphone SIM or Esim at the airport. We did the Vodaphone hotspot option, which worked pretty well as there are hotspots all around the island. However, during a big storm we had, the Wifi was unavailable.

Lots of sunshine and rain creates a lush island setting

You can rent cars; we did not, and scooter rentals are also popular. We just used the bus. Taxi service is also available but no Uber.

How to get here – Air New Zealand (via Auckland) is an option, but for Americans it’s much easier to fly to Honolulu and then take Hawaiian Air which has a weekly flight on Saturday and a return flight on Sunday evening. JetStar flies direct from Sydney.

We arrived on Hawaiian and departed on JetStar

No Expectations

As we do in much of our travel, we arrived Rarotonga with no expectations. We knew it was a small island but we knew little else. The island is volcanic, with an area of 67.39 km² (26.02 sq mi), and is home to almost 75% of the country’s population, with 10,898 of a total population of 15,040. On our arrival we found spectacular beauty untainted by mass tourism; friendly, welcoming, and kind local people, tropical weather (both sun and rain), delicious food and a distinct faith-based culture and customs. As we read prior to arrival, the island felt much like Hawaii likely did 50-75 years ago. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.

What to Do?

Don’t come to Rarotonga if you expect to be wined and dined in fancy settings, or stay in large upscale American brand resorts or have world class shopping. It is not that kind of place. There are activities on the island if you are a diver or want to snorkel with turtles and rays and learn about the local sea life. Many whales come here in season. You will also find some hiking options, bird watching and cycling tours. There is a tiny bit of shopping, particularly if you are in the market for the local black pearl. We chose to do a whole lot of nothing, during our one week visit. We can however wholeheartedly recommend the following;

Palm Grove Resort – we are so grateful we stumbled into the Palm Grove Resort. Perfect location with beach and pool. Beach-front and pool-front bungalows, as well as some larger options too. We loved our little bungalow poolside. We enjoyed the free snorkel gear and kayaks and dined on absolutely delicious meals and breakfast (included in the price) at the Yellow Hibiscus restaurant. But best of all was the kind staff and excellent service – always with a smile and a Kia Orana. For our poolside Bungalow we paid $165 USD per night.

Our bungalow perfect for two people, bigger options available

Cook Islands Bus – on time and comfortable. We used the Cook Islands bus several times during our visit. One bus goes clockwise the other counterclockwise. One price $5NZ no matter how far you are going – unless you buy a ticket packet of ten for $3.50NZ each.

Fun Stuff

Hike to Waterfall and Needle – Te Rua Manga or the Needle is a rocky spire in the Rarotonga mountains. It rises to an elevation of 413 metres above sea level. The spire itself is a breccia structure. There is a walking track to the base of the spire. This hike is not for novice hikers, but will certainly give you a 360 degree view. There are guides who can take you. We saw new to us birds and wonderful flora.

Titikaveka, Rarotonga – Voted as one of the top 25 beaches in the South Pacific by Trip Advisor, Titikaveka features bright turquoise blue water and white sandy beaches shaded by palm trees. We enjoyed the access to this beach from Palm Grove.

Highland Paradise – at the recommendation of the staff at Palm Grove, we spent an evening with Highland Paradise. We really enjoyed the food and the beautiful grounds, but more than anything we enjoyed learning so much about the local culture, dance, history and people of the Cook Islands. I highly recommend it.

Dancers were so fun at Highland Paradise

Local Outdoor Markets

Muri Beach Night Market -The Muri night markets in the Muri Beach Village are a great way to curate your own dinner from the various food trucks, stalls and stands all while mixing and mingling with tourists and locals alike. Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings from 5pm, the night markets offer a variety of food from local BBQ meals, seafood, fresh drinking coconuts, chicken curries, wok-fried noodles, pizza, desserts and more.

Muri Beach Night Food Market Three nights a week

Punanga Nui Market – The Punanga Nui Market in Avarua, Rarotonga’s main town, offers free entertainment, fresh food stalls, organic coffee, and authentic souvenirs like pearls, artwork, crafts and hats made of coconut frond. While the market is open until midday, early Saturday morning is the best time to go for locally grown fruits and vegetables as well as homemade treats like poke. Also, make sure to head over to the main stage from about 10am to enjoy live music and dancing.

Learn History

Te Ara Cook Islands Cultural Museum was a great activity on a rainy day. We really enjoyed learning some of the cultural history of the island both from before European’s arrived and everything since. I highly recommend spending an our or so here, and you can’t beat the $5NZ price. A nice little cafe too.

Where to Eat

Even though our darling bungalow at Palm Grove had a kitchen, and the Palm Grove is conveniently located near one of the larger grocery stores (Wigmores), we decided not to cook our dinners since we were on the island for only a week. Instead we found our way to several popular local eateries including;

The Yellow Hibiscus – Part of the Palm Grove Resort, we ate here three separate nights. On Sunday nights they offer their weekly BBQ for $45NZ. It was an outstanding value. The other dinners we had were delicious, with huge servings and good prices. Friday night is Happy Hour night.

The Tamarind House Restaurant and Ukelele Bar – we took the bus to Avarua just to see the town, which frankly doesn’t have a lot to offer, but we walked around, had a beer at Trader Jack’s, and then headed on to dinner at The Tamarind House. Absolutely beautiful view and we enjoyed our dinner of Ika Mata and Nicoise Salad with fresh Ahi.

Viama a short walk from Palm Grove we enjoyed a lovely dinner on Valentines Day here. With our toes in the sand we enjoyed fresh Ika Mata (also known as Poisson Cru), Fish, Steak and a great Sticky Toffee Pudding for Desert.

Charlies Bar and Grill – we heard great things about this beach side bar and chose to have lunch here on our final day on the island. Lunch starts at noon, but if you come for dinner call ahead for a reservation. The view is great, portions are huge and the food delicious. Order at the window and they bring the food to you.

Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands

Come to the Cook Islands to escape the winter weather back home. We met so many Canadians and Europeans in search of sun. Come to the Cook Islands to relax and find a peaceful paradise to read, relax, and swim with a few exhilarating possibilities thrown in. Come to the Cook Islands for amazing seafood, fresh produce and fruit – all served up with a smile. And come to the Cook Islands for Kia Orana – the blessing of the beautiful people and the fascinating culture they hold dear. For all of these reasons and more – come to the Cook Islands. We will be back.

Learn more at Cook Islands.

Thank you for reading my post Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands. See last week’s post Maui Best Restaurants 2025 and be sure not to miss our year end travel awards – Eighth Annual Travel Awards 2024.

Next stop Australia!

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan

December 27, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Kyrgyzstan

Welcome to the eighth and final installment of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan.

Adjectives

I can’t come up with enough adjectives to describe the beauty of Kyrgyzstan; resplendent, alluring, breathtaking, glorious, exquisite. Go ahead. Pick one. They all work to describe this tiny country and the scenery and culture.

The Good

Kyrgyzstan’s history, like all the countries we have visited on this tour, has spanned many cultures and empires due to its place on the Silk Road. However, its nearly impenetrable mountains often protected Kyrgyzstan from invasion and kept it isolated. Kyrgyzstan declared independence from the USSR and a democratic government was established. Kyrgyzstan attained sovereignty as a nation state. The Kyrgyzstan gradually developed an executive president and was governed as a semi-presidential republic before reverting to a presidential system in 2021.

Everyone we met was kind and seemed pleased to meet visitors to their country. We were very lucky to enjoy cold but clear days giving us outstanding views of the Central Tian Shin mountains – Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan.

The average monthly salary in Kyrgyzstan is about $250 USD. Gas is about $2.00 USD per gallon. Much of the country is rural and rugged and the capital city of Bishkek is home to more than 1 million of the countries 7 million people.

The Bad

Despite Kyrgyzstan being rich in metals, minerals and petroleum the people are still generally poor. Kyrgyzstan’s major exports include gold, cotton, wool, garments, meat, mercury, uranium, electricity, machinery, and shoes. There is corruption and ethnic racism issues. Lack of healthcare and terrorism threats are major problems for Kyrgyzstan’s population.

Where Are We?

After four weeks traveling together with Intrepid Travel and our group, arriving in our final country of Kyrgyzstan gave us mixed emotions. It was now late October and fall was definitely turning to winter; snow was visible on the mountains throughout our visit.

As mentioned in last week’s post (see it here), the border crossing between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan was a freezing cold scramble. But I tried to remind myself – as I stood in the bitter wind waiting to be processed by the custom agent – I would never be here again. Walking across a remote border, pummeled by wind, pulling my suitcase through gravel…not something everyone gets to do. Memorable for sure.

Kyrgyzstan is a small uniquely shaped country surrounded by mountains. To the north is Kazakhstan. To the east and south, China. Also to the south Tajikistan, and to the west Uzbekistan. We spent our visit along the northern border between Karakol and Bishkek. The topography keeps Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan rural.

Karakol

After crossing the border we arrived in the small former Soviet Military Post town of Karakol. Today Karakol is known for its proximity to ski areas, and receives visitors from many countries in the ski season. We even found a sticker from the Pacific Northwest in a small coffee shop.

On arrival in Karakol we had lunch and then had some time to wander around the small town. We enjoyed some beautiful and strange architecture, picked up some treats at the grocery store, and bought some lovely souvenirs at a small shop featuring local hand-made goods. Felting is a popular local handicraft and a perfect gift to take home.

We checked into our family run hotel which was really lovely, and after a long day Arne and I chose to skip dinner and have an early night. Next morning a delicious breakfast was served before we loaded up the van again and were off.

Before leaving the Karakol area we made a brief stop to visit the historic Dungan Mosque built in 1910. It has a unique Chinese style and was built without any nails – using a special cut and groove technique.

We then made another quick stop to visit the Holy Trinity Orthodox Church, a beautiful Russian Orthodox Church made from wood and still in operation today.

On our way out of town we stopped at a small park overlooking Issy Kul Lake that honors Nickolay Przhevalskiy who died in Karakol. Przhevalskiy was an explorer who traveled widely in Central Asia and Mongolia and documented and mapped the region.

Jeti Orghus Canyon

Now we settled in for a long drive into the gorgeous mountainous region surrounding the Issyk Kul Lake area. First we stopped to admire the picturesque geological feature roadside called the Seven Bulls. As amazing as that was, we soon learned there was much more in store.

Driving a short while further we arrived at a hiking location in the Jeti Orghus Canyon. It was a beautiful sunny and cool day, and we hiked up into the hills passing summer cabins and yurts. The views were amazing. Some went even further to a waterfall. Such a great hike and we worked up an appetite.

Oopsy!

We headed back to the van to have a picnic lunch but we discovered our van had gotten into a soft spot and was really stuck. Our wonderful driver was trying so hard to solve the issue before we returned. It took about an hour but with the strong backs of some of our fellow travelers (as well as some of the engineer types putting their heads together) we were freed from the mud and eventually on our way. Luckily the weather was good and we all enjoyed another unexpected adventure.

Onward

As much as I enjoyed this beautiful location and hike, our next stop was mind blowing. Skazka, in English Fairy Tale Canyon, was so unexpected. Literally appearing like a red mirage out in the middle of the mountains, this geological formation was very reminiscent of Arches or Bryce Canyon National Park in the USA. We had some time to walk around in the maze of trails here, both with our guide Svetlana and on our own. I loved it so much and once again we were lucky with the cold dry weather. Such a treat.

Almaluu Yurt Camp

After this wonderful day we continued along the somewhat desolate road that runs along Issyk Kul Lake. This lake is one of the largest in the world at 178km long and 60 km wide. It definitely feels more like an ocean. We arrived at the wonderful Almaluu Yurt Camp just a short walk from the lake. Although in October the camp had only our group and one other, it has dozens of yurts for groups and individuals. The yurts were huge, with coal burning stoves, shared toilet and shower facilities, and a spectacular giant yurt for meals. We would spend two cozy nights here and we really enjoyed it, including the gorgeous views.

Adventure and Education

We woke up to chilly temperatures and after a delicious hot breakfast we headed out for an unexpectedly amazing day. When reading the days itinerary before hand, I would never have expected this day to turn out to be one of my favorites from the entire trip.

Eagles

Our driver took us off road out to a large open space, where we met a local man and his Golden Eagle. We learned the importance of eagle hunting in Kyrgyzstan, and still today there is a small group of 50 expert Master Eagle Trainers and hunters. Most have learned the art from their fathers. In addition to hunting and showing the tourists, an annual gathering called the Nomad Games takes place with competition for traditional cultural skills including eagle hunting, yurt building and more.

Such an interesting lesson in local culture – Master Eagle Hunters

We learned that the ancient art of eagle hunting is a UNESCO recognized cultural heritage activity and goes back thousands of years. Eagles that are used are always female. They begin their training about three months old. They are not pets. When they are twenty years old they are released back into the wild and assimilate well and will reproduce until they die – usually around 45 years old. This eagle we had the opportunity to get to know is three years old. She was beautiful and smart.

I had some trouble – this bird was heavier than I expected!

Make Your Own Yurt

Well I had no idea what we were getting ourselves into, but what a fun we had learning how to make a yurt. Honestly it wasn’t all that hard…like putting up a tent with a few more details to take care of. We visited the home of a family of yurt-making professionals. Our hosts make yurts for people all over the world, and man now I want one. Each yurt is made in several parts that can easily be taken up and down and moved from location to location…just as the nomads used to do. The yurts are sturdy and warm. We learned the process from cutting the wood to weaving the decorative elements and then how it all goes together in a matter of about 30 minutes.

Look at the carpet and walls – functional and beautiful

Yurts were a important part of nomad life in Kyrgyzstan and surrounding regions. They are still used today for lodging and guest houses but rarely as a full home in Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan. It was a full and fabulous day. Back to our own Yurt Camp for a special relaxing dinner, including some local alcoholic specialties Svetlana acquired for us. We slept very well.

Final Day

It was our final full day in Krygyzstan and our final day on this amazing four week tour. When we signed up for this tour I was worried four weeks would be too much. It wasn’t. We were continually stimulated, inspired and entertained. It had been a marvelous experience.

We had a very early morning departure for the long drive to the capital city of Bishkek. After checking into our older but comfortable hotel we headed out for a walking tour of the city. Bishkek is a fairly modern city in the Chu River Valley. It is the capital of Krygyzstan. Our walking tour took us to several monuments and important buildings as well as parks. The best part was the changing of the guard which takes place every hour.

Farewell

Kyrgyzstan was authentic, beautiful and so worth it

Our final night on the tour, we all gathered together for a farewell dinner. I have not shared images of the entire group in any of my blog posts, because I forgot to ask permission from my fellow travelers. And I know one person in particular wasn’t keen on photos. I take that seriously. But I will say we felt very blessed to have such an amiable group, and especially to have such an outstanding guide. Intrepid Travel has my loyalty and I am sure we will travel with them again in the future.

The Five Stans; Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan were better than I imagined. As I’ve said in the past, it’s always our goal to travel with low expectations and then be pleasantly enchanted. I’ve been asked which of the five were my favorites? It’s a very difficult question; Uzbekistan had amazing architecture. Kazakhstan had amazing food and mountains. And Kyrgyzstan had spectacular scenery. My gratitude cup runneth over. Yes I am one lucky girl.

I hope you have enjoyed this 8 part series. I have enjoyed writing it. Thank you for your continued support, all your comments and questions. You are a great audience to My Fab Fifties Life adventures.

Thank you for reading Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan. Please see last week’s post about Incredible Kazakhstan here. Stay tuned for more! Our next departure day is January 16th! I wish you all the happiest of New Years. I hope 2025 brings you good health and many travel adventures.

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Incredible Kazakhstan – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

December 20, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Kazakhstan

Welcome to the seventh of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Incredible Kazakhstan The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

It’s Huge

Kazakhstan is a land locked country in Central Asia. Most people don’t know much about it, or realize it is the ninth largest country in the world! It is the largest landlocked country and has a population of 20 million and one of the lowest population densities in the world, at fewer than 6 people per square kilometer. Kazakhstan was the fourth of the five Stan countries we visited on our tour with Intrepid Travel. We spent our time in the Southeast part of the country. We would have needed a few more weeks to see the rest of this diverse and beautiful nation. A remarkable place Incredible Kazakhstan The Good The Bad and the Beautiful.

Kazakhstan borders Russia, China, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Azerbaijan.

A Little History

The word Kazakh derives from Russian, meaning “to wander” and refers to the nomadic people of the region.

Kazakhstan has been inhabited since the Paleolithic era. In antiquity, it was dominated by multiple nomadic tribes. In the 13th century, Genghis Khan plundered and subjugated the people. Kazakh Khanate was established over an area roughly corresponding with modern Kazakhstan in the 15th century. By the 18th century, the Kazakh Khanate tribes were absorbed and conquered by the Russian Empire; by the mid-19th century, all of Kazakhstan was nominally under Russian rule. In 1936, its modern borders were established with the formation of the Kazakh Soviet Socialist Republic within the Soviet Union. Kazakhstan was the last constituent republic of the Soviet Union to declare independence in 1991 during its dissolution. (Wikipedia)

The Bad

Almaty was the capital of Kazakhstan when the USSR fell in 1991. But in 1998 Aqmola in the north became the capital of Kazakhstan for its more central location and was renamed Astana, which means “capital city” in Kazakh. In 2019, the name was changed to Nur-Sultan in honor of the first president of Kazakhstan, Nursultan Nazarbayev. Nazabyev however is described as a dictator for his long, brutal autocratic rule. The Kazakh people protested the naming of the capital city honoring a man not admired and In September 2022, the name was changed back to Astana. This grassroots protest was highly unusual and marked a change in policies for the country. During this violent period protesters also demanded the return of cap on gas prices. Dissatisfaction with the government and poverty fueled the demonstrations.

During our visit, we did not travel to Astana or beyond the Almaty region. I’d like to perhaps in the future.

Kazakhstan is rich with oil, natural gas and many minerals including uranium but the average monthly salary for the people of this country is about $500 USD. Gas prices currently are about $2 a gallon – some of the lowest in the world. We only ate in a couple restaurants but a meal for two was about $15 USD.

The Good

We loved our time in the Almaty region. Some of the friendliest people on our tour we met here. We arrived in Almaty via a flight from Dushanbe, Tajikistan. Our arrival was late at night, and entering the country was easy and well organized. We had a nice modern hotel in Almaty and headed straight to bed after the late flight.

Almaty

Our lovely guide Svetlana let us sleep in a little, but after a quick breakfast we were off for a full day. First stop was the Issyk Cultural Historical Museum about 60km east of Almaty. Here we learned about the Golden Man – Kazakhstan’s National Symbol. This warrior was uncovered in a Saka Tomb and dates to the 5th Century. This indeed in itself is a great story…BUT this is not a man. DNA shows 100% the remains are a female, likely a Princess. However, the government has chosen to continue to present the symbol as a male. The museum presents the story as male, but since we had such a marvelous guide, she shared the truth with us. So many male egos… it annoyed me.

The Golden Man (who is actually a woman)

Burial Mounds at the Cultural Historic Museum

Sunshine

It was a beautifully sunny fall day and so I put my annoyance away as we headed next to the Issyk Lake. This lake was a resort area for Almaty area people but in 1963 a landslide washed away the dam, resorts and summer camp and killed many people. Today the lake sits silent and blue and is a very easy hike from the parking lot below.

This amazing first day in Kazakhstan wasn’t over yet. In fact, we would end this day with one of my most favorite things of the entire trip. We arrived at the home of Slava, and the beautiful outdoor setting where we would be wined and dined into the evening. Slava Almaty is a family home and winery, creating gastronomic events for visitors. We enjoyed the wine, several courses including making our own pizza, lots of laughs and a perfect ending with fresh coffee and homemade grappa. An unforgettable day.

Quail, Pumpkin and Mushroom cooked in the outdoor oven

City Tour

Day two dawned a bit cold, and we could see the snow low on the Tien Shin Mountains around Almaty from our hotel room. We pulled out the outerwear and headed out for a full day walking around Almaty. Almaty has a good subway system and we used the metro to get around the city. We visited Republic Square and the Independence Monument while learning from Svetlana about Almaty and Kazakhstan recent past. We really enjoyed our tour of the Central State Museum of Kazakstan particular the wonderful textile and traditional costume displays.

Historic clothing at Central State Museum

Despite the chilly temperatures we road the gondola up Kok Tobe Hill for views overlooking the city. It would have been better on a clear day, but we still enjoyed it and used the free time to pick up some fun gifts to take back home to friends and family.

History Remembered

Ending our day we walked through the very Soviet style Glory Memorial. This immense and beautiful monument remembers those who bravely sacrificed their lives on November 16, 1941. These soldiers destroyed 18 German tanks and halted the enemy’s advance. The twenty-eight soldiers were posthumously honored as Heroes of the Soviet Union.

We finished our walking tour at the beautiful Zenkov Cathedral (also known as Ascension Cathedral), a wooden Russian Orthodox church built in 1907. The church claims to be the second tallest wooden church in the world at 56 meters and was built without nails. Luckily it survived both the 1911 earthquake the Soviet era when it was used as a museum. It has had multiple restorations over the past fifty years and today is back in the hands of the Russian Orthodox Church and welcomes worshipers and visitors alike.

The Beautiful

Day Three in beautiful incredible Kazakhstan we left the city to explore the astonishing beauty of this region. Had we more time, my husband and I would have loved to spend weeks hiking the mountains of Kazakhstan. But we did feel lucky to be headed out into nature for the next couple of days. It was a long drive, but well worth it to our first stop Charyn Canyon.

Very reminiscent of Arizona or Utah, this breathtaking canyon lies about 120 miles from Almaty on the Kazakhstan-Chinese border. Worth the long drive on small winding roads, Charyn Canyon gave us some hiking opportunities and we reveled in the natural beauty. The destination at the bottom of the canyon was the Charyn River, cutting its way through the soft sandstone of the valley. It was both a hiker’s and a photographer’s dream. We felt lucky to have a dry day for this wonderful excursion. We loved our time here and were falling in love with Kazakhstan. By the time we were back in our van ready to go the sun was setting and we had another hour more drive to our night’s lodging.

Hiking and Homestay

Over the next two nights we stayed in a home stay, with apartment style accommodations and excellent food. Our host made sure we tried several local Kazakh foods including Baursak, a fried dough and Besbarmak a meat and noodle dish which is the national dish of Kazakhstan.

Besbarmak a meat and noodle dish is the national dish of Kazakhstan

The next day we were up early to do more hiking, this time at beautiful Lake Kaindy. This lake has an interesting history. It is a mountain lake in Kazakhstan’s portion of the Tian Shin Mountains. The lake was formed after an earthquake in 1911, which caused a major landslide, effectively creating a natural dam. Successively, rainwater filled the valley and created the lake.

Getting up to Lake Kaindy from our valley accommodations was interesting. The “road” up to the park requires a special all-wheel drive vehicle. A cottage industry has developed for visitors. Old style Soviet “breadloaf” busses can be hired for the bumpy and a bit crazy drive up the rocky road. Once we arrived though, the color of the lake made it worthwhile. The trails were really muddy, but it still was a good work out and a wonderful hike.

Hiking with horses on the same trail made the trail very muddy and messy

More Turquoise Lakes

After lunch back at the home stay we headed out again to another lake for a less strenuous hike. Lake Kolsay is much more easily accessed and is a very popular weekend destination for people from Almaty. It was pretty cold but we bundled up and did a loop on the wooden boardwalk around the lake. Some of our group took out paddle boats. We enjoyed the birds here too as well as seeing the interesting looking local squirrel. Time to head back to our home stay for a delicious dinner and early to bed. Our final night in Kazakhstan.

Local squirrel. We loved his ears and color.

Incredible Kazakhstan

In the morning we headed out early for the long drive to cross the border into Kyrgyzstan – our final Stan of the tour. We drove on a high plateau with stunning mountain and river views before arriving at a desolate border crossing. On foot we made our way through one of the smallest border controls I have ever seen – entirely outdoors. The wind was howling and the temperatures were hovering around freezing as we trudged from Kazakhstan exit controls about 50 yards to Kyrgyzstan entry. Even the luggage scanner was just under a small cover. Surprisingly, despite the cold, the border officers on both sides were friendly and welcoming. After our van went through all the controls, we piled back in to get warm but laughing about another memorable experience. Incredible Kazakhstan. So glad we came!

The drive to the border was so beautiful

Thank you for reading my post Incredible Kazakhstan – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Please come back next week for my final Stan post as I share about Kyrgyzstan. Be sure to read last week’s post about Tiny Tajikistan.

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Tiny Tajikistan – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

December 13, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Tajikistan

Welcome to the sixth of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Tiny Tajikistan – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

Where is Tajikistan

Tajikistan, officially the Republic of Tajikistan, is a landlocked country in Central Asia. Dushanbe is the capital and most populous city with about 1.5 million people. Tajikistan is bordered by Afghanistan to the south, Uzbekistan to the west, Kyrgyzstan to the north, and China to the east. It is separated from Pakistan by Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor. It has a population of approximately 10.6 million people. (Wikipedia)

Like all the countries of this region, Tiny Tajikistan has an ancient history of being conquered and invaded, ruled by empires and dynasties and has seen the rise and fall of all religions. As all the countries I have written about in the past few weeks, Tajikistan also declared its independence in 1991 after the fall of the Soviet Union. A civil war was fought after independence, lasting from May 1992 to June 1997. Since the end of the war, newly established political stability and foreign aid have allowed the country’s economy to grow.

The Bad

We only had four days in beautiful Tajikistan, but it was enough to learn the country has been led since 1994 by Emomali Rahmon, who heads an authoritarian regime and whose human rights record has been criticized. Some strange things we encountered as a result of this was no photos could be taken of the Presidential Palace, and of course no criticism either. Before entering the capital city of Dushanbe we had to have the van washed – no dirty cars allowed in the capital city. That said, the people we met seem very proud of the country and the current state, although we were advised not to criticize the government.

The average monthly salary in Tajikistan is only $147 USD. Gas is about $2.60 a gallon. Most of our meals were covered during our short stay in Tajikistan, but the meals and other things we purchased were very inexpensive. Lunch for two with drinks, less than $10 USD.

The Good

Tiny Tajikistan is proud of it’s many historic heroes including Alexander the Great. He established a city in 329 BC in modern-day Tajikistan and fought a battle in the region, leaving behind a legacy that includes a city and a lake name Iskanderkul. We will visit this lake.

In the 13th century, the Mongol Empire swept through Central Asia, invaded the Khwarezmian Empire and sacked its cities, looting and massacring people. Turco-Mongol conqueror Tamerlane founded the Timurid Empire, becoming the first ruler of the Timurid dynasty in and around what later became Tajikistan and Central Asia.

Border Crossing

We were lucky to have a beautiful sunny day as we crossed from Uzbekistan to Tajikistan on foot. We said goodbye to our Uzbek driver at the border and exited Uzbekistan, then entered Tajikistan on foot with no issues. On the other side of the border we met our new driver.

Our first stop after crossing the border was the small city of Khujand, population of abut 190,000. The older Soviet style hotel had a nice view…which we enjoyed both day and night with a full moon waxing.

Khujand

Our first stop was lunch, where we learned some Tajikistan foods like, shurbo – a traditional soup with potatoes, carrots and beef as well as kabuli pulao – similar to plov but with chickpeas and raisins. Later in our visit we would learn more about the national cuisine.

After lunch we headed to the Khujand History Museum in the heart of Khujand and with our guide really learned some amazing things about the history and culture of Tajikistan. It was small but really well done museum. After a rest at our hotel, we headed out for a fun evening together.

Khujand History Museum had a fabulous mural with multiple panels explain the life of
Alexander the Great

We enjoyed both the old and a new Jami mosque in the center of the city, but my most favorite thing was visiting the amazing Khujand Market…very lively at night. This giant market operates seven days a week with both indoor and outdoor areas selling the most amazing fruits, vegetables, meats, household goods, crafts, and clothing. We were here at sunset and enjoyed a beautiful view. After a long day we picked up some fruit, cheese and bread and headed back to the hotel for a room picnic before bed.

Iskanderkul Lake

After breakfast the next day we said farewell to Khujand and headed into the mountains and over Shahriston Pass. On this day we would cross the highest elevation of our trip, around 11,000 feet (3400 meters). I always worry about altitude sickness, but it did not bother me this time.

The amazing Fann Mountains of Tajikistan were breathtaking…a real surprise. Snow-topped and dressed in fall gold, it was so much better than I imagined. We enjoyed a picnic lunch on the shore of Iskanderkul. The sky could not have been more blue. After lunch some of us hiked to a beautiful waterfall before continuing on our way to our night’s lodging.

Not far from Iskanderkul we arrived at the end of the road, and the itty-bitty village of Sary Tag. A mountain livestock village is also home to a Chinese managed gold mine. Today Sary Tag takes advantage of the new-found tourism industry. Our guesthouse was a lovely eight room spot, next to the home of our host and his family. Except the plumbing was, well, not exactly functional. I skipped a shower. But watching the sunset as I laid in bed and watched the color change over the mountain…then looking out the door as the moon rose on the other side was sublime. It was pretty chilly, but our host served us a delicious and hearty dinner before we called it a night.

Dushanbe

The name of Tajikistan’s capital city is Dushanbe…it means Monday. This name reflected both Dushanbe’s status as a town, with Kasabai meaning town, and the influence of trade, as the name Dushanbe, which means Monday in Persian, was due to the large bazaar in the village that operated on Mondays. This lovely city is such a contrast to the rest of Tajikistan, sparkling buildings, traffic, gardens, monuments and parks. A brand new Parliament Building and the residence of the President spoke to the importance of the city.

Qurutob is the National Dish of Tajikistan

Before heading to our hotel, we had a delicious lunch. Our guide Svetlana wanted to introduce us to Qurutob, the national dish of Tajikistan. Although some in our group did not care for it, Arne and I thought it was both delicious and unusual. It’s a kind of bread salad, made with dried salty sour milk, that is rehydrated and mixed with flat bread and fried onions, vegetables and spices. Sounds bizarre and it was certainly unique. But very tasty and very cheap.

After lunch we went to Hisor Fortress just outside of the city. This site is one of the best preserved sites in all of Tajikistan, built 2500 years ago. We learned this was one of the most important settlements in the region and was the capital for 100 years. Demolished and restored numerous times, the fort today is one of Tajikistan’s biggest tourist attractions. Serving as a caravan stop along the Silk Road, the Hisor Fortress today is in good condition, thanks to the foresight and restoration in the 1980’s.

Main Entrance, part original and part restored

Evening Fun

For our entertainment, Svetlana took those who were interested to an amazing restaurant that included nightly traditional dance. Very popular with the locals (and VERY LOUD), the local people pulled us out of our chairs to dance the night away between performances by the beautiful costumed dancers. Food was good too. I’m so glad I got to see this and really see how the locals party.

City Tour

Dushanbe Day Two dawned bright and warm, by far the warmest day we would see throughout this four week tour. It felt great to shed the sweaters and walk around the sunny city with a guide. Our guide explained much of the history of the city and the monuments and we visited the Museum of National Antiquities. We also enjoyed a delicious lunch at a famous historic restaurant. This indoor/outdoor restaurant, a favorite with locals, had been slated for demolition but the public rose up and saved it. Making it all the more special. In addition I met the nicest older gentleman who was so interested in me as an American, and about the United States. I wish I could have spent hours with him.

Local girls shooting a promotional video

Finishing this final day of a whirlwind tour of Tiny Tajikistan, we wandered the streets and took some time to look for souvenirs, before heading back to the hotel to prepare for the flight to Almaty Kazakhstan.

Giant Buddha at The Museum of Antiquities

Tiny Tajikistan

Tiny Tajikistan packs a big punch, with interesting history, lovely people, fabulous mountains and scenery and great food. We enjoyed our short but lovely visit. I think it is the kind of place where having a guide was very helpful…not so easy to get around on your own. Possible, but not so easy. Thanks for the hospitality Tajikistan. Next stop Kazakhstan.

Sary Tag Village such a contrast to Dushanbe

Please come back next week to read about our visit to Kazakhstan. And see last week’s post Unbelievable Uzbekistan. We love it when you share and comment on our travel posts. Thank you!

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Unbelievable Uzbekistan

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

December 6, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Uzbekistan, Central Asia

Welcome to the fifth of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Unbelievable Uzbekistan.

Where Am I

Uzbekistan is a landlocked Central Asia country that borders Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrghzstan and Afghanistan. It has a population of 37 million. We entered and departed by car during our visit.

To Tour or Not to Tour

Of the five Stan countries we visited with Intrepid Travel, Uzbekistan I think would be the easiest to visit without a tour. And many people do. Our guide was amazing though, and we found some hidden gems thanks to her. But if you are interested in visiting a Stan or two, starting with Uzbekistan is the way to go. Transportation is great, many people speak English, hiring guides for day trips or city tours is very easy in Unbelievable Uzbekistan.

The Good

Intrepid Travel

Despite the above statement, I am so glad we decided to do this four week trip with Intrepid Travel. It was more expensive than our usual form of travel but so worth it. In Turkmenistan (see last week’s post here) we were required to have a Turkmen guide. She was lovely and sweet but maybe a little new at her job. But once we crossed the border (on foot and a bit unsure of what was happening) we found a whole new world with our next guide Svetlana. Svetlana would spend the next three weeks with us, and our experience could no way have been as wonderful without her guidance. Arne and I were the first to step across the border and she knew who we were and greeted us with a smile, a beautiful comfy coach bus and PAVED ROADS! Hallelujah for that!

Actors portraying historical figures Khiva

During this tour we will spend the most time in the country of Uzbekistan – an entire week. We will visit three ancient cities and one modern city in Uzbekistan. We will be educated, inspired and awed.

Throughout this period we will travel in a coach, a couple of vans and by high speed train. Each high quality, safe and comfortable.

The Bad

I am hard pressed to find anything bad at all about Uzbekistan. But since the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, like all other countries in this region, Uzbekistan has had few Presidents. While non-governmental organizations have defined Uzbekistan as “an authoritarian state with limited civil rights”, significant reforms under Uzbekistan’s second president, Shavkat Mirziyoyev, have been made following the death of the first president, Islam Karimov. Owing to these reforms, relations with the neighboring countries of Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Afghanistan have drastically improved . In fact only recently have the borders between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan opened, creating much easier travel itinerary options for visitors.

As guests, we felt safe and welcome and everyone we met seemed happy and healthy. Average monthly salary in Uzbekistan is similar to other surrounding countries, about $400 USD. Meals were delicious and affordable, about $25 USD for two people. Gas prices were just under $4 USD per gallon.

The Beautiful

Everywhere we went in Unbelievable Uzbekistan was beautiful. The historic blue tiled buildings, the markets filled with handmade ceramics and carpets. The hotels we stayed, the people we met and the food. Wow. Let me take you city by city.

Fun Facts

Uzbekistan grows more than 160 kinds of melon and watermelon is on nearly every menu. Uzbekistan is a major producer and exporter of both watermelon and cotton.

Khiva

After crossing the border from Turkmenistan we arrived in the ancient walled city of Khiva. Our coach was too big to enter the historic walled city so we unloaded and walked at dusk through the ancient streets. It was so beautiful at dusk and we arrived at the lovely family owned hotel with a little bit of a Fawlty Towers feel. Most of the group headed out for dinner but we were exhausted both mentally and physically from our crazy Turkmenistan day, so we just took the night off and went to bed.

The next morning after a delicious breakfast we enjoyed a full day exploring Khiva with our guide.

A Lot of History

Khiva is said to be more than 2500 years old, with archaeological evidence showing it existed in the 6th century BCE. The entire old city is an open-air museum, and as our first stop it was hard to imagine the tour could get any better than this. Khiva was the first site to be named a UNESCO Heritage site in Uzbekistan. Khiva was on the caravan route and thrived in ancient times.

The next day we went wild in Khiva, visiting so many gorgeous and historic mosques, mausoleums, palace and madrassa. Khiva has 94 mosques and 63 madrassas and is considered an important center of Islam. We enjoyed traditional dance and learning some of the local crafts. After a full morning and lunch, we had free time. Arne and I returned to a few of our favorite spots and bought some souvenirs. We also decided to dine just the two of us in a traditional restaurant overlooking the colorful historic center. Despite comfortable daytime temps, as soon as the sun goes down it is cool in October. So we bundled in provided blankets and toasted our first stop in Unbelievable Uzbekistan.

You can walk on part of the ancient walls of Khiva

Arne trying on one of the local, popular sheep wool hats

Inside the ancient Juma Masjd Mosque with it’s wooden carved pillars

Dinner by moonlight overlooking the ancient city of Khiva

Bukhara

It was a long van ride from Khiva to Bukhara but the roads were good and I was listening to Audible on my headphones. We stopped for lunch briefly, arriving in the historic city of Bukhara late afternoon. We found ourselves in another lovely hotel with an inner courtyard just steps from the historic center.

A Little History

Bukhara functioned as one of the main centers of Persian civilization from its early days in the 6th century BCE. The city’s architectural and archaeological sites form one of the pillars of Central Asian history and art and are a UNESCO Heritage Site.

Located on the Silk Road, the city has long been a center of trade, scholarship, culture, and religion. During the Golden age of Islam, under the rule of Samanids, Bukhara became the intellectual center of the Islamic world.

Arrival

After settling into our hotel we headed right out with a local guide to see many of the sites of this amazing town. Everything from the Ssitorai Mohi Khosa, once a summer palace of Bukharan emirs to the Chor-Bakr Necropolis. Everything here is stunning and well restored or preserved.

Bukhara is home to a wonderful craft market where vendors sell the stunning Uzbekistan ceramics, hand made knives, rugs and scarves, and beautiful hand decorated copper and brass. I needed a bigger suitcase.

At the end of this day the entire group enjoyed a delicious local meal together as we really began to appreciate the delicious, fresh and flavorful foods of Uzbekistan including soups, stews, pickles, meat and dessert.

So Much More

Day two arrived with rain, but that did not stop us from traveling just a mile outside of the city to experience the Ark Fortress . We walked back through a park enjoying lovely scenery and to the Ismail Samani Mausoleum. We had time on our own in the afternoon and Arne and I had a wonderful lunch in a traditional restaurant to learn more about the local food.

Plov

Speaking of local food, on this night we walked through the back alleys of hidden Bukhara to the home of a wonderful lady who taught us how to make the national dish of Uzbekistan – Plov. What a treat as she showed us the ancient way of cooking this rice and meat pilaf over a fire heated cauldron, all the layers of Plov. And then of course we ate it all! Absolutely delicious. Here is the Tasty Tuesday YouTube Video I did about learning to make Plov.

Final Day

On our last day in Bukhara, we had half the day to ourselves before the group headed out to catch the high-speed train to our next city. Weather was still wet, but Arne and I went back to the beautiful market to pick up some more souvenirs, enjoyed a great lunch in another traditional restaurant, and despite the rain headed to the market where the locals shop. We love seeing markets with local produce, meat, fish and in this case local specialties like pickles and halvah – a popular confection made from flour and sesame. Then it was off to the train station and on to Samarakand.

Samarkand

Whoa. So Beautiful. We arrived Samarkand after dark, and the Gur-Amir Mausoleum next to our hotel took our breath away. We would visit this stunning piece of architecture the next day and learn all about the conqueror Timur also known as Tamerlane. Timur (Emir Timur) or Tamerbeg (9 April 1336 – 17 February 1405) was a Turco-Mongol conqueror in the 14th century who is regarded as one of history’s greatest military leaders and strategists. He founded the Timurid Empire in 1370.

Rainy Day

After a wonderful breakfast at our hotel we headed out with our hooded raincoats for a day of exploring beautiful Samarkand. It’s really hard to decide but this might have been the most beautiful city of the three so far – despite a very wet day.

We started this full Samarkand day at Registan, the central square of Samarkand. Researchers estimate that Samarkand was founded in the 8th–7th centuries BC. However, archaeological excavations have uncovered evidence of human activity dating back to the Upper Paleolithic era, 40,000 years ago.

From the Registan we proceeded to the huge Bibi Khanum mosque and the ancient bazaar, picking up a few more souvenirs. One of my favorite sites of the day was Shak-i-Zinda a sacred necropolis of blue tiled mausoleums. The tile, carved ancient pillars and all part of the Timurid dynasty. Breathtaking.

After another amazing lunch Arne and I decided to use our afternoon free time to walk to the ancient Samarkand Ulegbek’s Observatory, built in the 1420s by the Timurid astronomer Ulugh Beg. This school of astronomy was constructed under the Timurid Empire, and was the last of its kind from the Islamic Medieval period. Delicious dinner ended this great day.

Sunny Day

Our final day was sunny and we made the most of our time before heading to the high-speed train again. Svetlana took us to a hidden restaurant we could never have found on our own to experience Samsa, a tiny sandwich (like a slider) baked in giant outdoor ovens and filled with meats. Oh My Gosh. Absolutely delicious. Next we headed to Bumajnaya Paper factory that makes hand-made paper the ancient way. The small operation includes a wonderful interpretive center explaining the history and demonstrating the ancient art of paper making.

Learning that ancient way of paper making

Time to say farewell to beautiful Samarkand and jump back on the train to our final Unbelievable Uzbekistan destination of Tashkent.

Tashkent

It was a beautiful sunny day when we woke up in Tashkent, the capital city of Uzbekistan. We started off with a local guide to tour the city, which is more modern than those we visited before. It was fun to use the Tashkent Metro, a beautiful metro system with each station decorated with a different theme.

Next we headed to the giant Chorsa Bazaar, an astonishing place where you can buy just about anything! Most fascinating was the meat pavilion….an entire enormous building just selling meat! I was also intrigued watching the bakers make the local bread in open clay ovens. This bakery makes about a million and half loaves of bread a year…feeding Tashkent! So far I was loving this city of 3 million people.

At this point some people went back to the hotel but most of us piled into one tiny cab and headed to an amazing restaurant that makes plov in humongous cauldrons all day long. They like things big in Tashkent. The plov was good (not as good as what we had at the cooking class) but most fascinating was watching the process of this restaurant that serves thousands of people each day.

Arne and I decided to head out on our own for the rest of the afternoon. We visited the small but nice Tashkent Hand Craft Museum then went out to dinner at a lovely restaurant and enjoyed a modern twist on Uzbekistan food. Our final night in this wonderful country.

Another delicious meal. There is no bad food in Uzbekistan

Unbelievable Uzbekistan

We really enjoyed this country, the people, the history, the beauty and the food. It’s a great destination, easy to get around and definitely worth a visit. Get it on your radar. But now it was time for us to move on to Tajikistan. I’ll tell you about that next Friday. Meanwhile, thank you for reading my post Unbelievable Uzbekistan. See last week’s post Turkmenistan, Ashgabat and Beyond here. I hope you will come back next week for more of this wonderful journey.

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