Bhutan, a small landlocked kingdom nestled in the eastern Himalayas, is renowned for its rich biodiversity. The birds of beautiful Bhutan thrive here. The country is home to over 700 species of birds. Bhutan’s varied elevations and diverse habitats range from subtropical forests in the south to alpine meadows in the north. This remarkable variety is largely due to Bhutan’s unique geographical features and its commitment to conservation. This is how we came to enjoy the Birds of Beautiful Bhutan on our recent visit. Note most photos in this post are screen shot from Merlin Bird App. We highly recommend this app for amateur bird watching.
Himalayan Vulture soaring in Gantay
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Respecting Nature
In Bhutan, the combination of pristine ecosystems, traditional agricultural practices, and a strong cultural ethos that respects nature has created an environment where numerous bird species thrive. On our ten day tour with My Bhutan, our guide Lhamo was well trained in bird guiding. She immediately recognized our desire to see as many birds as possible. She went out of her way and worked closely with us to make that happen.
Arne and Lhamo finding birds on one of our many hikes
Our Bhutan tour kept us primarily in the Northwest part of the country. During our visit we marked off 40 new-to-us birds, and enjoyed sightings of many others we have been acquainted with in the past.
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Birds of Beautiful Bhutan
Among the most notable birds of beautiful Bhutan is the national bird, the Raven (Corvus corax). The black Raven holds great cultural significance in Bhutanese folklore and spirituality. The Raven symbolizes intelligence and adaptability, often seen soaring above the mountains and valleys. Additionally, Bhutan is a critical habitat for several globally threatened species, such as the Black-necked Crane (Grus nigricollis). These elegant birds migrate from Tibet to Bhutan each winter. During this migration they are celebrated in local festivals, highlighting the deep connection between the birds and the Bhutanese people.
Diversity
Bhutan’s varying elevations contribute to distinct ecological zones that support a wide array of bird life. In the southern foothills, rich subtropical forests can be found. This region is home to vibrant species like the Great Hornbill (Buceros bicornis) and the Indian Pitta (Pitta brachyura). Ascending into the temperate forests, here you find the majestic Himalayan Monal (Lophophorus impejanus). Elusive but captivating are various species of Thrushes and Warblers. Higher up in the alpine regions, the striking Snow Pigeon (Columba leuconota) and the magnificent Himalayan Snowcock (Tetraogallus himalayensis) can be spotted. These beauties showcase the incredible adaptability of birds to harsh mountain environments.
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Finding the Birds of Beautiful Bhutan is a popular activity for both locals and tourists. Bhutan attracts ornithologists and nature enthusiasts from around the globe. The country has invested in eco-tourism. This focus provides opportunities for visitors to engage in guided birding tours led by knowledgeable local guides. Local tours not only facilitate bird watching but also promote awareness of conservation. Tours showcase the efforts of preserving Bhutan’s unique ecosystems. Bhutan continues to navigate the balance between development and environmental stewardship. The avian diversity remains a testament to the nation’s dedication to protecting its natural heritage.
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More Birds to See
Will I ever have an opportunity to visit Bhutan again? I don’t know, but I would love to see the southern part of this remarkable country. There are many more birds to see. Perhaps I can be introduced to even more of this nations diverse wildlife, bird life and nature. What a remarkable country it is.
bucket list noun: a list of things that one has not done before but wants to do before dying
Tigers Nest Monestary Bhutan
I have been thinking about Bhutan for so long…honestly didn’t know if it would ever happen. It’s remote, expensive, and definitely under the radar for most travelers. But for us, it ticked a lot of boxes we look for in a destination. So we made it happen – Bhutan Bucket List, The Land of the Thunder Dragon.
The Thunder Dragon
In this Buddhist country overflowing with symbolism, myths, and beliefs, Bhutan is known as Druk Yul or the “Land of Dragon”. The name comes from the violent thunderstorms that sweep down from the Himalayan Mountains.
At the 108 Stupas, Duchula Pass, 3100m
More than 85% of the Bhutanese people practice the Buddhism, in the only Buddhist democratic constitutional monarchy in the world. The people are strong in their faith, their love of their King and country, and their love of their unique and beautiful cultural traditions.
Khamsum Yulley Monastery, Punakha
Why Bhutan?
Fifteen years ago I saw a photograph of Bhutan’s iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery. It blew my mind. I vowed to see it one day. This was before we set out on our retirement travel adventures. Back when we had no idea this travel obsession would become a way of life. Back when I never dreamed we could, and would, travel the world. But through careful planning and sheer determination, we have visited so much of this planet including our Bhutan Bucket List , The Land of the Thunder Dragon.
Monks at Gantay Goenba Monastery
A Culture of Happiness
Gross National Happiness is a term coined by His Majesty the Fourth King of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck in the 1970s. The concept implies that sustainable development should take a holistic approach towards notions of progress and give equal importance to non-economic aspects of well-being.
Our lovely guide Lhamo , hiking high above the Haa Valley
The first and foremost reason for the uniqueness of Bhutan is the happy people living in Bhutan. The concept of ‘happiness’ in the Kingdom is very much derived from the contentment that Bhutanese feel about their lives. It is also instilled through the Buddhist values of simplicity and compassion.
Shoes off – custom at all Temples and Monasteries
Bhutan’s free and accessible education and healthcare systems are pivotal in enhancing its citizens overall well-being and happiness. This is a government funded system that insures everyone even in remote areas have the services they need.
The tiny Bhutanese Horse at Tigers Nest
As an American, I can’t say I live in a country where my happiness takes priority. Often it feels quite the opposite. As a visitor to Bhutan you immediately sense that something is different here; in the interaction of the people with each other and with visitors. In restaurants, in museums, in monasteries, even in traffic. People are happy, engaged with each other and welcoming to guests.
Traditions
In Bhutan keeping cultural traditions strong and protecting nature and the environment is a large part of the lives of local people. The Buddhist goal to become enlightened is believed to be attainable only with the elimination of all greed, hatred, and ignorance within a person. These daily aspirations combine to create a fascinating, beautiful and friendly place – unlike anywhere I have visited in the world. You will see it in the traditional architecture, the traditional dress worn daily, the strong faith, the protection of animals and care of the people.
Traditional Dress of Bhutan. Men wear the Gho a knee length wrap robe. Women wear Kira a woven skirt and top
Visiting Bhutan requires a guide and a driver, as well as paying the Bhutan Sustainable Development Tax. The tax fuels initiatives to protect the land, empower communities, and preserve culture. The cost is $100 USD per person per day. It’s steep, but the tax was dropped significantly after Covid. There is no guarantee it won’t go up again, so if you are considering Bhutan you might want to come soon.
We were so lucky to have these wonderful Bhutanese people to guide us through Bhutan; Lhamo and Dam. Lhamo was an expert birding guide and we were so grateful.
We chose to do a private ten day tour with the company My Bhutan. There are many companies to chose from both private and group tours, trekking and cycling tours, bird watching and even motorcycle tours. My Bhutan gave us a wonderful experience and exactly what we hoped for. We stayed in beautiful hotels, ate delicious and unique foods and had a superb and knowledgeable guide and driver. If you want to cut costs in Bhutan there are many home stays that would save you a great deal of money, but conditions can be rustic. Do your research and decide what is best for you and your budget. Bhutan will cost you more than most other destinations, but it truly is a once in a lifetime destination.
Where is Bhutan
If you aren’t familiar with Bhutan take a look at this map. Nestled in the Himalayas, Bhutan is a landlocked country that borders China/Tibet, Nepal and India. The country lies close to Myanmar (Burma) and Bangladesh. Bhutan’s remote and rugged location kept it from ever being colonized. Bhutan opened its borders to visitors in 1974. Until that time, the Kingdom of Bhutan and its people remained happily isolated. Bhutan’s current population is 800,000 in an area about one and a half times the size of Vermont.
Bhutan and it’s neighbors
During our visit to our Bucket List Bhutan, The Land of the Thunder Dragon, we were primarily in the Northwest. This is the region that is home to the International Airport in Paro and the capital of Thimphu. We spent our days hiking, bird watching, visiting dzongs (fortresses), monasteries, temples and enjoying astonishing views of mountains, valleys and rivers. During our visit we learned about local weaving, paper making, wood carving, traditional housing, farming and the national sport of archery. We visited local homes, enjoyed home-cooked meals and laughed and enjoyed the hospitality of everyone we met including our wonderful guide Lhamo and our driver Dam from My Bhutan.
We loved having Lhamo and Dam with us on the hike to Tiger’s Nest
What is Your Favorite
Our lovely guide asked us on our last day what had been our favorite thing we did during our ten day visit. I was loath to choose just one thing. How could I? There was nothing I didn’t like. Of course Tiger’s Nest was amazing as expected. But the unexpected stood out; the children, the Buddhist legends, seeing yaks and birds. My first time seeing the Himalayas. The cultural awareness, the magnificent traditional art – I could go on and on. You can’t possibly grasp it without coming here. You really should come and see it for yourself. Here are someof the things I will never forget:
Unforgettable – That’s What You Are
Prayer Flags
Hundreds of thousands of colorful Prayer Flags everywhere, the fabric sounding like a flock of birds in the afternoon wind, promoting peace, compassion, strength and wisdom.
Hiking above Timphu and Prayer Flags everywhere
Artists
Talented and patient hands weaving astonishing works of art as one of Bhutan’s national treasures. Tedious and determined work creates something of value and beauty.
Such talent and patience
Himalayas
Waking up on a sunny morning to our first view of the Eastern Himalayas, thought to be sacred by the Bhutanese, and it is easy to see why.
Helping Bhutan keep its goal to maintain 70% of the country forested by planting a tree with the local NGO Green Bhutan, thanks to our tour operator My Bhutan.
We can come back in years to come and see how our tree is doing, our names will always remain on the plant
Local Children
Hiking to the astonishingly beautiful mountaintop Khamsum Yulley Monastery and meeting the tiniest little girls selling citrus on the trail.
Greeting the littles in Bhutan
Suspension Bridge
Walking across the longest suspension bridge I have ever encountered over the Puna Tsang river. Fun and a little bit of an adrenaline rush.
This amazing suspension bridge
River Rafting
Rafting down the Mo River on a beautiful sunny day. Getting soaked in the rapids, laughing and loving every minute of it.
Black Necked Crane
Seeing so many new to us birds, as well as an unexpected endangered Black Necked Crane, one of Bhutan’s auspicious and sacred animals. The cranes winter in the Probjika Valley, from November to February, so we were lucky to see a couple of stragglers in March.
Black Neck Crane, endangered and sacred. (Photo Merlin App)
High Altitude Hiking
Accomplishing one of the hardest hikes I have ever done, at 12,000 feet my lungs were screaming. But the view was worth it in the end, and more memories made.
Invigorating (and sweaty) hike. Overlooking the Probjika Valley.
Adding our own prayer flags at the summit
That’s a Yak
Seeing a yak for the first time, these incredible creatures are a vital part of high altitude living and provide so much for the local people.
That is a yak.
Butter Lamps
Lighting butter lamps (candles made of butter) at the Gangtay Goenba Monastery to banish ignorance and replace it with wisdom and light. I definitely know some people who should light some butter lamps!
Butter Lamps
Evening Prayers
Going to evening prayers with the nuns, in a monastery with young girls as small as nine years old. A commitment to enlightenment that is hard for most people to grasp.
Prayers at the monastery with the nuns
Bhutan Cuisine
The food – spicy, fresh, surprising and delicious – we learned to make Momo dumplings, fell in love with Chili Cheese, Hoentay buckwheat dumplings, Spinach with Pork, amazing soups and the best scrambled eggs ever. I’ll be doing YouTube videos I promise.
Momo Dumplings filled with delicious vegetables
Most Bhutanese meals we had were home cooked and served family style while seated on the floor
Symbolism
Learning the legends of the local deities, the symbols of faith and fertility, the rituals of enlightenment and beliefs of the local people and how it is ingrained deeply in their lives.
Gantay Monastery
Hot Stone Bath
Experiencing the unique and medicinal traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath. Both relaxing and stress relieving.
Hot Stone Bath heated with mineral stones and infused with herbs. It was magical.
Archery
Watching the local obsession with Bhutan’s national sport of archery – and giving it a try ourselves. Bhutan’s version of archery is very different from anything I have seen before – and much more difficult.
Everywhere we went, there were archery areas and so many men playing. When someone hits the target, they all sing.
I have done archery several times, but this was harder. Bamboo bow.
Bucket List – Tiger’s Nest
And finally of course, hiking to the amazing Tiger’s Nest. Leaving early in the morning and making it to the top before any other guests, giving us unprecedented views and access to the monastery. Learning the legend of Guru Rinpoche who meditated in a cave here for three years, three months, three weeks, three days, and three hours in the 8th century. It is believed that Guru Rinpoche flew to this location on the back of a tigress, thus earning the name Tiger’s Nest for the monastery that was built here in his honor in 1692.
Dream come true. Tiger’s Nest Bhutan. No photos allowed inside, so you’ll have to take my word that it was really beautiful
There it is.
Bhutan Bucket List, The Land of the Thunder Dragon
While we were in Bhutan, neighboring Myanmar experienced a tragic magnitude 7.7 earthquake. I had been thinking throughout our visit to Bhutan that it reminded me of Myanmar – one of our favorite countries. With similar faiths, traditions and the kindest people, Bhutan and Myanmar are not unlike each other. My heart breaks for those amazing people we met in Myanmar. And now Bhutan also holds a very special place in my heart. Thanks for giving me a bucket list experience like no other.
Spring in Bhutan presented so many wildflowers – these are wild primroses
It’s unlikely I can afford to make another visit to Bhutan. But if I did I would certainly choose My Bhutan again. And I would consider visiting the southern part of Bhutan to see even more amazing birds and nature. A girl can hope…
Drinking surprisingly delicious, sweet and spicy, rice porridge a Bhutanese breakfast staple. Warm comfort food at the top of Chelela Pass, 3900m
Thank You My Bhutan
Thank you My Bhutan and the people of Bhutan for your generous welcome to your astounding country. I will always hold this memory close to my heart. And I will shout it from the mountain top – everyone should visit and learn from Bhutan about how to be peaceful and prosperous in a world full of war and greed.
Grateful for beautiful weather, amazing scenery, history and culture.
Thank you for reading my post Bhutan Bucket List, The Land of the Thunder Dragon. Kadrinchey Bhutan. I keep you in my heart.
We are so grateful when you comment, share and pin our posts to help us reach a wider audience. I am happy to answer any questions you have about visiting Bhutan.
Our first visit to Melbourne ( prounced mel·bn) was too darn short (you can read about it here Marvelous Melbourne Australia). And so we vowed to come back for a long stay. Given Melbourne, in the Southern Hemisphere, is sporting its summer finest when we Northerners need it most, it’s perfect destination. And as we hoped, we took our leisurely time to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia during a month long visit.
Melbourne on the Rocks
Favorite Cities in the World
Melbourne ranks for us as one of our favorite cities in the world. As you know we have been blessed with traveling the world, and our favorite cities include Paris (Pop. 2.1 million), New York City (Pop.9 million), Mexico City (Pop. 22 million), Vienna (Pop. 2 million) and Melbourne (Pop. 5 million). We have more favorites, but this is our top list. Melbourne ticks all the boxes. If I could live in any of these cities, I would chose Melbourne. You really need to visit.
Beautiful Melbourne – perfect climate, beautiful, historic and wonderful people
I realize most people would not stay a month in Melbourne. So as you plan your trip, take a look at all of our suggestions here, and pick and choose what you find of interest. There really is something for everyone. I am happy to answer any questions you might have.
How Ya Going
In Australia they say How Ya Going as a greeting and salutation. Well, when I am in Melbourne and the greater Victoria area, I am always going fine. The city is cosmopolitan with art, theater, museums, dining and recreation of all kinds. It is close to easy day trips with wonderful natural beauty. The people are down to earth, friendly and proud. Melbourne has it all. Let me tell you what I loved the most.
Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia
What’sOn Melbourne
As a frequent traveler and a former tourism marketing guru, I have so much appreciation for an all-encompassing website for activities and sites in any city. A local website that is up to date and accurate. And a big shout-out to What’sOn Melbourne, seriously the best all round, easy to use website I have ever discovered for a destination. Start your planning for a visit to Melbourne with this outstanding website.
Don’t miss a visit to the Block Arcade in the CBD
Favorite Things in the City
Our Airbnb was a little ways outside the city in a small neighborhood called Altona. Melbourne has a great train system, tram system and bus system. For your stay I recommend purchasing the Myki card for easy use. We also used Uber during our stay, and we had a car. Additionally for fun we took the…
Williamstown Ferry & The Yarra River
We met new friends thanks to Instagram and they took us into the city on a beautiful sunny day via the Williamstown ferry. The ferry goes back and forth between quaint little Williamstown right to the CBD. Its price of $35 Aussie ($27) and limited schedule makes it more of tourist boat than a commuter boat. If you have the time though, it’s great way to see the skyline and the river walk from the water. But if you don’t take a ferry or river boat cruise, enjoy the river walk to get a real feel for how important the Yarra River is to Melbourne. It’s an easy and interesting walk – learn more about it here.
On the Williamstown Ferry approaching the CBD through the Yarra River
So Many Museums
Like any big city Melbourne is home to many museums. More than we could see even during our long stay. We learned excellent history and nature information from the Melbourne Museum and loved our visit to the Melbourne Gaol. Another favorite, the Koorie Heritage Trust, was excellent for a small presentation of local Aboriginal art by modern artists. We spent couple of hours at the NGV (National Gallery Victoria) Australia enjoying its wide range of art. I would say we particularly enjoyed the Indigenous collection. These last two museums are free and are located in Federation Square, a local gathering place across the street from the historic Flinders Station. Both an integral part of the city.
Melbourne Gaol historic and interesting
Melbourne Museum
Koorie Heritage Trust
National Gallery of Art
National Gallery of Art
Royal Exhibition Building
The Royal Exhibition Building built in the late 1800’s is an iconic piece of Melbourne’s history. Though parts are under restoration, the old lady has seen much of Melbourne’s most important people and events through the generations. Today it serves as an event space and museum, and with advance tickets you can have a tour that includes the rooftop dome. I’m so glad we did that. One of the few things we did that was not free so get your tickets online.
Royal Exhibition Building Dome
Royal Exhibition Building interior
Melbourne Laneways
I know some cities have similar “alley” type spaces, but I have never seen anything so fun, festive and beautiful as the famous Melbourne Laneways. A result of Melbourne’s early grid layout, the laneways have become a thriving business area for locals and visitors. Many famous laneways, including Hosier Lane, Degraves Street, Hardware Lane, Meyers Place and Flinders Lane are known for their street art, cafes, shops, grafitti and bars. Through out the year festivals within the lane ways draw even bigger crowds. This is a perfect pedestrian area and one of my favorite parts of this beautiful city.
De Graves Lane
Meyers Place
Hosier Lane
Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia
We have only tapped the surface as we Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia. There is much more to see:
Royal Botanic Gardens
Throughout all our travel in Australia we have been astonished by the abundance of stunning and FREE Botanical Gardens everywhere we have gone. And Melbourne’s Royal Botanic Gardens is the best. You can spend a couple hours or an entire day. Qantas Airlines calls it the number one thing to see in the entire country. I wouldn’t go that far, but it is an absolute not-to-miss destination when you want to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia.
Lotus at Royal Botanic Gardens
Making friends at Royal Botanic Gardens
Markets
Melbourne is home to many markets, some seasonal. Our favorite is the South Melbourne Market for both shopping and dining. On both our visits to Melbourne we have grazed through the many restaurants located in the South Melbourne Market. It’s a great place to people watch. The other large market in Melbourne is the Queen Victoria Market. In the summer they have a night market on Wednesday nights and we really enjoyed that on this recent visit.
Queen Victoria Market
Night Market at Queen Victoria Market
Getting our produce at the South Melbourne Market
Grazing through the South Melbourne Market
Wow!
Australian Rules Football
With all the time we have spent in Australia we still had not experienced the spectacle that is Australian Rules Football. It is not American Football. Nor is it soccer. It is not rugby but similar. Here is what Wikipedia says;
The Melbourne Cricket Grounds is also home to AFL
We had a great time learning about this sport
Australian rules football, also called Australian football or Aussie rules,[2] or more simply football or footy, is a contact sport played between two teams of 18 players on an oval field, often a modified cricket ground. Points are scored by kicking the oval ball between the central goal posts (worth six points), or between a central and outer post (worth one point, otherwise known as a “behind”).
It’s impossible for me to list the thousands of festivals and events this city has. During our short visit we attended a Greek Festival, a Nepalese Festival, Moomba (one of Melbournes oldest festivals), and witnessed the annual Melbourne Grand Prix Formula One event. Just a few others include concerts, wine and food festival, history tours, live theater and many, many more. For the most up-to-date information you want to bookmark WhatsOn Melbourne.
Greek Festival
Moomba Festival Wakeboard Competition
Riding the historic Steamrail during the Moomba Festival
Just Outside the City
Saint Kilda
There are many neighborhoods just outside of the CBD that are worth a visit. Saint Kilda is a gorgeous beachfront town with a new pier that everyone should see. Stroll the esplanade and enjoy drinks and dining at one of the many delicious options, both waterfront and throughout the town. On weekends you really need a reservation. See our restaurant favs below. I highly recommend Saint Kilda.
Saint Kilda Pier
Historic Saint Kilda Amusement Park
People watching with a cool drink on a hot St. Kilda day
Williamstown
Williamstown, not as posh as Saint Kilda, is where we caught the ferry into the CBD (see above) and is a quiet, historic port town that is residential with a small downtown area. Great views of Melbourne from the Williamstown waterfront, also the location of the ferry to Tasmania and other destinations. We visited the Bathtub Gin Distillery on a recommendation from our friends and really loved it.
Historic Williamstown
Bathtub Gin in Williamstown
Altona
Altona, primarily a residential area and also very industrial, is home to our Airbnb . We had great access to Altona Beach and the beautiful Altona Walking Trails. The small town center near the waterfront has a handful of restaurants, grocery, post office and more. Short drive from our Airbnb to the train station.
The esplanade in Altona
The view from the Altona Homestead Park
Brighton Beach
A little further south of Saint Kilda is the iconic beach town of Brighton Beach. Renowned for its long sandy beaches, fabulous mansions and above all the historic and brightly colored Bathing Boxes. This is one of the main reasons Brighton is frequented by visitors to Melbourne. We enjoyed an afternoon on the beach and the water was so very warm.
Iconic Bathing Boxes in Brighton Beach
Brighton Beach
Day Trips or Further
Discover the Wonder of Melbourne and the surrounding Victoria area with day trips or an over night visit to many stunning areas. These are the ones we can highly recommend;
One Hour From Melbourne
Geelong
We visited Geelong on our way to The Great Ocean Road but it would also make a wonderful day trip from Melbourne. Geelong has a beautiful waterfront esplanade, a protected swimming area, historic carousel, and historic Victorian homes. But my favorite thing was the Baywalk Bollards, quirky and fun depictions of people and history, there are 100 bollards scattered along the waterfront.
Geelong Baywalk Bollards
Geelong
90 Minutes from Melbourne
Bendigo
We went to Bendigo to learn a bit about the important Gold Mine history of the Victoria region. We did that by visiting the Central Deborah Gold Mine and touring the underground mine. The gold rush boom town is home to beautiful Victorian architecture and a thriving arts district and CBD. We only spent part of the day here but I am really glad we did,
Central Deborah Golf Mine
Down Under, Down Under at the Central Deborah Gold Mine
Beautiful Bendigo
Yarra Valley
Depending on the traffic and on what part of the Yarra Valley you are headed, it will take around 90min or a bit more to arrive in this beautiful place. Northwest of Melbourne and home to the regions finest wines, with an emphasis on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We did a wine tasting at Punt Road Winery and Cider tasting at their sister Napoleon Cider. We enjoyed both as well as the lovely grounds and service.
Punt Road Winery
The cider featured Cosmic Crisp Apples, a Washington State developed apple.
After wine tasting we had an amazing meal at Meltetos (more below) one of dozens of first class dining establishments around the wine region. Highly recommend.
Meletos was such a beautiful site and delicious too
Two Hours from Melbourne
Portsea and Point Nepean National Park on the Mornington Peninsula
We took a day trip out the Mornington Peninsula with a stop in Portsea to walk “Millionaires Walk” on a cliff that fronts incredible mansions. Then on to Point Nepean National Park, a historic site of a Quarantine area for immigrants and a beautiful ocean view. The point is home to The Rip, considered one of the world’s most dangerous sea passages and the mouth to Port Philip Bay and eventually Melbourne.
Millionaires Walk in Portsea
Quarantine Station at Point Nepean National Park
Silos
Through out much of Victoria and also in South Australia there is a wonderful collection of painted silos, each with their own story. We visited three different silo sites on our day trip to Bendigo. I learned about the silos from my fellow travel blogger Sharyn (see her blog here about Victoria’s Silo Art). If you want to explore more about these amazing works of art learn more about out the Silo Art Trail here. You can visit several easily from Melbourne in a few hours or take more time to travel farther afield.
Victoria Silos
Silos tell a history story
Beautiful artistry
Three Hours from Melbourne
Wilson’s Promontory National Park
We actually combined Wilson’s Promontory National Park and Raymond Island (see below) into a two day overnight road trip. But both could be done as a day trip from Melbourne. Wilson’s Promontory is a very large park with stunning views and beaches. If you are a hiker I certainly recommend it.
Stark Lookout at Wilson’s Promontory
High above the ocean, Wilson’s Promontory
Enjoying the shade
Squeaky Beach, Wilson’s Promontory National Park
Four Hours from Melbourne
Raymond Island
Visiting Raymond Island was one of my favorite things in the greater Melbourne area. Closer to Melbourne you could visit Phillip Island instead, but there is no guarantee you will see koalas there. At Raymond it is nearly guaranteed you will see koalas in the wild. And that is what I wanted to see. So we made this an overnight trip, but you could do it as a very long day trip (3+ hour drive one-way) from Melbourne. A tiny ferry shuttles you across the narrow channel to the island. It’s an easy walk into the forest where we saw a dozen different koalas, new-to-us birds, and breathed the eucalyptus air during our three hour visit. This is a must do.
Fun to find this fella wide awake
Taking a nap on Raymond Island
The ferry to Raymond is free for walk ons. You do not need a car on the island.
Overnight Road Trip
The Great Ocean Road
Please read the blog I wrote The Great Ocean Road Melbourne Australia to see in-depth information about our two-day road trip from Melbourne to Peterborough and back. I highly recommend you see this road and try not do it in one day. Two days would be safer and more enjoyable. Take your time and discover.
So beautiful
The 12 Apostles
Hungry?
Melbourne is home to a wide array of fabulous restaurants with a taste and a price for everyone. Though, as we always do, we cooked at home a lot, with a wide variety of excellent grocery stores near by. But we also enjoyed MANY wonderful Melbourne restaurants during our 30 day visit. Click on the link and make reservations when you can. Here is list of some of our favorites:
Big Esso – Aboriginal – try the Green Ant Gin and Tonic
Mackerel at Big Esso
Pork Belly at Rice Paper Scissors
Rice Paper Scissors – Asian with a flare. One of the best meals we had in Melbourne.
Yarra Botanica – right on the river walk perfect for people watching although there is much better food in the city.
Lamb Kebabs at Beckka
Tempura Whitefish at Yarra Botanica
Bekka – Lebanese and delicious in the Melbourne neighborhood of Moonie Ponds
The Waiters is a must visit when in Melbourne. Definitely call for a reservation at this historic and popular place.
Right at Home
It was our sincerest pleasure to return to Australia for the third time and Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia. Through out this country we have met the kindest people, enjoyed a great exchange rate, learned fascinating history and marveled at the jaw dropping scenery and nature. It is a place unlike anywhere else in the world. And we feel right at home. It ticks all the boxes for us, and we can’t wait to visit again, hopefully in 2027.
I could live here
Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia
Until then, thank you once again Australia. Good on ya Mate. You have my heart.
Abundance of Wildlife is one of the best things when you come to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia
Please note, we will not have a travel blog post for the next few weeks as we now embark on our Bhutan Adventure. I hope to be posting regularly on Instagram while in Bhutan so follow along. Stay tuned for more about Bhutan in the week’s ahead.
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Location: The Great Ocean Road, Victoria Australia
I am smitten with Australia. We are back for our third visit. This time we are spending the entire visit in the state of Victoria in and around Melbourne. Last year when we came to Melbourne (read about that visit here) we thought it was amazing, and did not have enough time to do and see everything we wanted. So we are back for a full-month. Next week I will share a blog post in depth about our favorite things around Melbourne. But today I am going to tell you what I loved most about The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia.
Where Are We?
Australia States
Victoria is the second smallest state in Australia. We have been lucky enough to visit all but one of Australia’s seven states. South Australia remains on the bucket list, and we will visit there next time. Victoria, although one of the smallest states, is home to Australia’s largest city of Melbourne. It is also home to the historic and famous Great Ocean Road.
The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia
Entering the official Great Ocean Road
History
The Great Ocean Road is an Australian National Heritage-listed 240-kilometre (150 mi) stretch of road along the south-eastern coast of Australia, between the Victorian towns of Torquay and Allansford. Built by returned soldiers between 1919 and 1932, and dedicated to soldiers killed during World War I, the road is the world’s largest war memorial. Winding through varying terrain along the coast, and providing access to several prominent landmarks, including the Twelve Apostles limestone stack formations, the road is an important tourist attraction. (Wikipedia)
Tourism
The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia is one of Australia’s top tourist destinations. Visitors each year total 2.8 million, most of those domestic and about 250,000 international. These numbers have taken a toll on the road and its sites. Currently roadwork and additional parking and facilities are underway near the famous and most visited, 12 Apostles site.
Walk way at 12 Apostles
We visited mid-week in summer and did not find it too crowded. In fact we had several sites all to ourselves. The park service has provided parking, walk ways, view points, signage and in a few cases, public restrooms for visitors
Our Route
Our two-day route did not cover the entire Great Ocean Road
We took two days to travel from Melbourne to just beyond Peterborough and back. There is more to The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia, but this is the section we visited. I would love to see more of this beautiful place on our next visit to Australia. Here are my recommendations;
Geelong
Technically not on the Great Ocean Road, Geelong is a beautiful port city about an hour’s drive from Melbourne. It’s easy to add Geelong to a Great Ocean Road tour, or make it a day-trip from Melboune.
We did a lovely stroll along the Waterfront esplanade enjoying the views. At the Eastern Beach we sat and had coffee on a stunning bluebird day. Scattered along The Waterfront are the Baywalk Bollards, colourful sculptures chronicling city history. We really loved this place and think it would be great for a night or two.
Baywalk Bollard Bathing Beauties
East Beach protected swimming area
I want to be a Baywalk Bollard when I grow up
Kennett River
A very easy river walk, the Kennett River Walk provides opportunity to spot many birds and, if you are lucky, koala. We had seen koala in reserves and conservation area during our past visits, but we had never seen one in “the wild”. So it was a treat to spot a large koala high up in the trees doing what koalas do…sleeping.
We also saw a Kookaburra and many other beautiful birds. The park has parking, a small store and picnic tables.
Yep that ball is a furry snoozing koala
Kookaburra
Let’s Take a Walk
Great Ocean Walk
The Great Ocean Walk is a one-way 110km walk that takes hikers through a wide range of historically significant and natural regions of this part of Victoria. But on this day we walked about 5k of it. The first half of the way, which we began from the parking lot of the Otway Light, was lots of scrub bushes. I was disappointed because I had been expecting expansive views. Well, wait a minute. We turned a corner and crested a small ridge to find ourselves high above the stunning ocean. What a treat. Should we come back and walk all 110km? This trail is part of the Great Otway National Park.
We found the view
Sandy trail through thick brush
Cape Otway Light
Worth the wait
Mait’s Rest Rainforest Walk
This little place, Mait’s Rest Rainforest Walk was a big surprise. A short boardwalk hike through some of Australia’s oldest surviving trees as well as a wide array of other beautiful flora. Additionally we saw lots of birds including one new to us little beauty – Australian Rufous Fantail – a real stunner. Mait’s Rest Rainforest is part of the Great Otway National Park.
300 year old trees (and an old guy too)
Mait’s Rest Rainforest
Screenshot from Merlin of an Australian Rufous Fantail
Clifton Beach Lodge
About 15 min before reaching Port Campbell and perfectly located to the Great Ocean Road National Park sights, is the darling Clifton Beach Lodge. Not on the beach, but rather in a peaceful farm setting, we loved our tiny one bedroom cabin and wished we could have stayed longer. Full kitchen and comfy bed in our unit but larger units are also available. We booked this on Booking.com . Our two person cabin was $120 USD.
Clifton Beach Lodge
Clifton Beach Lodge one bedroom unit
Port Campbell
The day was waning and the sun was getting low in the sky, so we made haste to Port Campbell where we had a delicious Aussie style Fish and Chip dinner with a view at 12 Rocks. We took a quick spin around this darling town, population 500, which offers multiple lodging options. The town seems to be having a bit of a renaissance. It’s cute and road upgrades are underway. There is a wonderful public beach.
We loved the food and atmosphere at 12 Rocks
Beer with a view after a long hot day
The Great Ocean Road National Park
Australia has a remarkable system of National Parks that are FREE. Well maintained and many with restrooms. It is such a treat to find these free parks for visitors and residents alike. We couldn’t wait to go check it out after dinner.
Razorback
This towering limestone stack known as Razorback is one of several amazing limestone formations at this site. We stopped here after dinner and the entire region was in a golden glow. Razorback is one of the largest stacks. Parking is good and short paved path takes you to a great view point.
Razorback in the foreground
The 12 Apostles
Definitely the regions most popular site due to the fact you can see about 30 limestone stacks from this vantage point. The Twelve Apostles are a collection of limestone stacks off the shore of Port Campbell National Park, by the Great Ocean Road in Victoria Australia. Their proximity to one another has made the site a popular tourist attraction. Despite their name, it is possible that there were never 12 rock stacks. Several stacks have collapsed in the last couple of decades and seven remain standing, all while other stacks will eventually be formed from rain, erosion and waves.
It is possible to walk on the beach at the 12 Apostles but only at low-tide. Access to the beach is from Gibson’s Steps.
Please note some websites say this park is open 9am-5pm. However that is the hours of the visitor center. The walkways, viewing areas and parking are open 24 hours, as are the other sites I mention in the post.
Sunset at the 12 Apostles
Golden Hour
I think this is my favorite photo I took – misty air, evening gold and pink sky. Love it.
Day Two
We were greeted by a lovely sunrise and then a crystal blue sky on day two of our adventure on The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia. We were sufficiently caffeinated and headed back to The 12 Apostles to see it in a different light. I am so glad we took the time to view this incredible natural area both dressed in sunset rose and daybreak blue. Significantly fewer people at 8am than at sunset, but both times offered plenty of room for everyone to enjoy the beauty.
Morning view of the 12 Apostles
London Bridge
Just beyond Port Campbell to the West you will come to the viewpoint for London Bridge. Originally a natural archway and tunnel, London Bridge collapsed on 15 January 1990 and became an isolated arch no longer connected to the mainland. It was one of my favorite spots on our tour.
London Bridge
On the viewing platform at London Bridge
That little guy is a Swamp Wallaby
The Grotto
Our next stop, just down the road, is a weathered hollow limestone formation known as the Grotto. I have seen photos of this place with 40 people…but we had it all to ourselves. It is one of the most evocative and intimate of the coastal formations of the Great Ocean Road. Part-blowhole, part-archway, part-cave, its serene rock pools and smooth boulders frame the sea views. Parking is good, but stairs are involved to access the Grotto.
The Grotto
We had it all to ourselves
Bay of Martyrs and Bay of Islands
Our next two stops provided more expansive views of limestone stacks and their ever changing beauty. Like sculptures in the sea, I’m sure each time you visit you see something new and beautiful.
Bay of Martyrs – that’s Arne way down there
Bay of Islands
Bay of Martyrs
Peterborough
We made a brief stop in the tiny town of Peterborough home to one of the most beautiful stretches of gold sand beach I have ever seen. Except for a couple of surfers, the beach was unpopulated and serene.
The town was believed to have been founded when the schooner SS Schomberg was wrecked in the middle of the 19th century, but Aboriginal people were here long before.
Peterborough is a 3 hour drive from Melbourne (with no stops) and we made this our turn around point for the day.
(Canva) Peterborough
Major Change in Scenery
As we turned north and eventually east, rural farms spotted with sheep, cows and horses replaced the crashing ocean waves. Though a different view, this scenery was bucolic with its rolling hills, brown from summer heat. It reminded me a lot of the Palouse in my home state of Washington.
Lake Cullen Merri and Lake Gnotuk
Thanks to one of my followers on Threads, we learned of this alternate route to take us high up on a hill near the town of Camperdown for this beautiful view and interesting history.
Lake Bullen Merri and its smaller northern neighbor Lake Gnotuk are a pair of crater lakes. Lake Bullen Merri has a maximum depth of 66 m (217 ft), with a clover leaf outline indicating that it was probably formed by two overlapping maar volcanoes. Historical records show that the lake water level has dropped significantly over the past 100 years. Today it is a popular recreation area. (Wikipedia)
Heading Home
After our full two days we headed back to our Airbnb just outside of the city of Melbourne, sated with the delicious wonder that is The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia. It would be easy to take an additional day or two and drive farther west along the coast, taking even more time to enjoy some of natures bounty.
So glad we came
The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia
Thank you for reading my post The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia. Please come back next week for more about this beautiful Victoria region and Melbourne. See you then!
Kia Orana! “Kia Orana” is a Cook Islands greeting that means “may you live long” or “may you have a long and fulfilling life”. It’s more than just a greeting, it’s a wish for a good future and a core part of Cook Islands culture. This is what you will find in this tiny island nation in the middle of the South Pacific. We came with no expectations, and went away blessed by the beauty and kindness that penetrates this island. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.
Beautiful Rarotonga
Why Rarotonga?
As we planned our travels for 2025 we knew we wanted to return to Australia – one of our favorite countries in the world. Visiting Australia during their summer, is perfect for leaving behind the dreary Northern hemisphere winters
Beautiful flora
Colorful flowers
So, it was a natural fit to spend some time in Hawaii, and then take the non-stop flight Hawaiian Air offers from Honolulu to Rarotonga every Saturday. Why not? We have the time, the flight is only five hours and though not cheap, it got us closer to Australia. Cook Islands here we come.
So much beauty
Color everywhere
A Few Details
The Cook Islands uses the New Zealand dollar. ATM machines are available all over and most businesses accept credit cards as well. As of this writing the NZ dollar is .57 cents per one US dollar. Very good rate for Americans.
Snorkeling is a very popular activity on Rarotonga
Our cell provider Verizon does not include The Cook Islands in their international plan. Once on the island one option is purchase the Vodaphone hotspot service for WiFi. Most hotels do not offer a separate WiFi service. We paid $35NZ for five days/50G, up to three devices. Another option is to get a Vodaphone SIM or Esim at the airport. We did the Vodaphone hotspot option, which worked pretty well as there are hotspots all around the island. However, during a big storm we had, the Wifi was unavailable.
Lots of sunshine and rain creates a lush island setting
You can rent cars; we did not, and scooter rentals are also popular. We just used the bus. Taxi service is also available but no Uber.
How to get here – Air New Zealand (via Auckland) is an option, but for Americans it’s much easier to fly to Honolulu and then take Hawaiian Air which has a weekly flight on Saturday and a return flight on Sunday evening. JetStar flies direct from Sydney.
We arrived on Hawaiian and departed on JetStar
No Expectations
As we do in much of our travel, we arrived Rarotonga with no expectations. We knew it was a small island but we knew little else. The island is volcanic, with an area of 67.39 km2 (26.02 sq mi), and is home to almost 75% of the country’s population, with 10,898 of a total population of 15,040. On our arrival we found spectacular beauty untainted by mass tourism; friendly, welcoming, and kind local people, tropical weather (both sun and rain), delicious food and a distinct faith-based culture and customs. As we read prior to arrival, the island felt much like Hawaii likely did 50-75 years ago. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.
Long white sandy beaches
What to Do?
Don’t come to Rarotonga if you expect to be wined and dined in fancy settings, or stay in large upscale American brand resorts or have world class shopping. It is not that kind of place. There are activities on the island if you are a diver or want to snorkel with turtles and rays and learn about the local sea life. Many whales come here in season. You will also find some hiking options, bird watching and cycling tours. There is a tiny bit of shopping, particularly if you are in the market for the local black pearl. We chose to do a whole lot of nothing, during our one week visit. We can however wholeheartedly recommend the following;
Coffee by the pool at the Palm Grove
Palm Grove Resort – we are so grateful we stumbled into the Palm Grove Resort. Perfect location with beach and pool. Beach-front and pool-front bungalows, as well as some larger options too. We loved our little bungalow poolside. We enjoyed the free snorkel gear and kayaks and dined on absolutely delicious meals and breakfast (included in the price) at the Yellow Hibiscus restaurant. But best of all was the kind staff and excellent service – always with a smile and a Kia Orana. For our poolside Bungalow we paid $165 USD per night.
Our Palm Grove Bungalow
Our bungalow perfect for two people, bigger options available
Cook Islands Bus – on time and comfortable. We used the Cook Islands bus several times during our visit. One bus goes clockwise the other counterclockwise. One price $5NZ no matter how far you are going – unless you buy a ticket packet of ten for $3.50NZ each.
Waiting at the bus stop on a stormy day
Fun Stuff
Hike to Waterfall and Needle – Te Rua Manga or the Needle is a rocky spire in the Rarotonga mountains. It rises to an elevation of 413 metres above sea level. The spire itself is a breccia structure. There is a walking track to the base of the spire. This hike is not for novice hikers, but will certainly give you a 360 degree view. There are guides who can take you. We saw new to us birds and wonderful flora.
Te Rua Manga
Wigmores Waterfall
Screenshot of Cook Island’s Fruit Dove
Screenshot Pacific Imperial- Pigeon
Titikaveka, Rarotonga – Voted as one of the top 25 beaches in the South Pacific by Trip Advisor, Titikaveka features bright turquoise blue water and white sandy beaches shaded by palm trees. We enjoyed the access to this beach from Palm Grove.
Titikaveka
Highland Paradise – at the recommendation of the staff at Palm Grove, we spent an evening with Highland Paradise. We really enjoyed the food and the beautiful grounds, but more than anything we enjoyed learning so much about the local culture, dance, history and people of the Cook Islands. I highly recommend it.
Dancers were so fun at Highland Paradise
Buffet at Highland Paradise
Local Outdoor Markets
Muri Beach Night Market -The Muri night markets in the Muri Beach Village are a great way to curate your own dinner from the various food trucks, stalls and stands all while mixing and mingling with tourists and locals alike. Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings from 5pm, the night markets offer a variety of food from local BBQ meals, seafood, fresh drinking coconuts, chicken curries, wok-fried noodles, pizza, desserts and more.
Muri Beach Night Food Market Three nights a week
Punanga Nui Market – The Punanga Nui Market in Avarua, Rarotonga’s main town, offers free entertainment, fresh food stalls, organic coffee, and authentic souvenirs like pearls, artwork, crafts and hats made of coconut frond. While the market is open until midday, early Saturday morning is the best time to go for locally grown fruits and vegetables as well as homemade treats like poke. Also, make sure to head over to the main stage from about 10am to enjoy live music and dancing.
Punanga Nui Market
Learn History
Te Ara Cook Islands Cultural Museum was a great activity on a rainy day. We really enjoyed learning some of the cultural history of the island both from before European’s arrived and everything since. I highly recommend spending an our or so here, and you can’t beat the $5NZ price. A nice little cafe too.
Te Ara Cook Island’s Cultural Museum
Te Ara Cook Island’s Cultural Museum
Where to Eat
Even though our darling bungalow at Palm Grove had a kitchen, and the Palm Grove is conveniently located near one of the larger grocery stores (Wigmores), we decided not to cook our dinners since we were on the island for only a week. Instead we found our way to several popular local eateries including;
The Yellow Hibiscus – Part of the Palm Grove Resort, we ate here three separate nights. On Sunday nights they offer their weekly BBQ for $45NZ. It was an outstanding value. The other dinners we had were delicious, with huge servings and good prices. Friday night is Happy Hour night.
Amazing Salad Buffet at the Sunday BBQ
Gigantic serving of fish and chips
Best Calamari I have ever had
Ahi or steak at the Sunday BBQ
The Tamarind House Restaurant and Ukelele Bar – we took the bus to Avarua just to see the town, which frankly doesn’t have a lot to offer, but we walked around, had a beer at Trader Jack’s, and then headed on to dinner at The Tamarind House. Absolutely beautiful view and we enjoyed our dinner of Ika Mata and Nicoise Salad with fresh Ahi.
Nicoise Salad at the Tamarind House
Beautiful view
Viama a short walk from Palm Grove we enjoyed a lovely dinner on Valentines Day here. With our toes in the sand we enjoyed fresh Ika Mata (also known as Poisson Cru), Fish, Steak and a great Sticky Toffee Pudding for Desert.
Sticky Toffee Pudding
Amazing local John Dory
Dinner with a view
Charlies Bar and Grill – we heard great things about this beach side bar and chose to have lunch here on our final day on the island. Lunch starts at noon, but if you come for dinner call ahead for a reservation. The view is great, portions are huge and the food delicious. Order at the window and they bring the food to you.
Thai Steak Salad at Charlie’s
Charlie’s live music all day
Charlie’s Bar and Grill view
Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands
Come to the Cook Islands to escape the winter weather back home. We met so many Canadians and Europeans in search of sun. Come to the Cook Islands to relax and find a peaceful paradise to read, relax, and swim with a few exhilarating possibilities thrown in. Come to the Cook Islands for amazing seafood, fresh produce and fruit – all served up with a smile. And come to the Cook Islands for Kia Orana – the blessing of the beautiful people and the fascinating culture they hold dear. For all of these reasons and more – come to the Cook Islands. We will be back.
Welcome to the eighth and final installment of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan.
Adjectives
I can’t come up with enough adjectives to describe the beauty of Kyrgyzstan; resplendent, alluring, breathtaking, glorious, exquisite. Go ahead. Pick one. They all work to describe this tiny country and the scenery and culture.
Sunset in IssyKul
The Good
Kyrgyzstan’s history, like all the countries we have visited on this tour, has spanned many cultures and empires due to its place on the Silk Road. However, its nearly impenetrable mountains often protected Kyrgyzstan from invasion and kept it isolated. Kyrgyzstan declared independence from the USSR and a democratic government was established. Kyrgyzstan attained sovereignty as a nation state. The Kyrgyzstan gradually developed an executive president and was governed as a semi-presidential republic before reverting to a presidential system in 2021.
Quiet, hardworking and welcoming people
Everyone we met was kind and seemed pleased to meet visitors to their country. We were very lucky to enjoy cold but clear days giving us outstanding views of the Central Tian Shin mountains – Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan.
The average monthly salary in Kyrgyzstan is about $250 USD. Gas is about $2.00 USD per gallon. Much of the country is rural and rugged and the capital city of Bishkek is home to more than 1 million of the countries 7 million people.
Eagle Hunting in Kyrgyzstan
The Bad
Despite Kyrgyzstan being rich in metals, minerals and petroleum the people are still generally poor. Kyrgyzstan’s major exports include gold, cotton, wool, garments, meat, mercury, uranium, electricity, machinery, and shoes. There is corruption and ethnic racism issues. Lack of healthcare and terrorism threats are major problems for Kyrgyzstan’s population.
Where Are We?
After four weeks traveling together with Intrepid Travel and our group, arriving in our final country of Kyrgyzstan gave us mixed emotions. It was now late October and fall was definitely turning to winter; snow was visible on the mountains throughout our visit.
Brrr that wind!
As mentioned in last week’s post (see it here), the border crossing between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan was a freezing cold scramble. But I tried to remind myself – as I stood in the bitter wind waiting to be processed by the custom agent – I would never be here again. Walking across a remote border, pummeled by wind, pulling my suitcase through gravel…not something everyone gets to do. Memorable for sure.
Low snow and wind on the plateau
Kyrgyzstan is a small uniquely shaped country surrounded by mountains. To the north is Kazakhstan. To the east and south, China. Also to the south Tajikistan, and to the west Uzbekistan. We spent our visit along the northern border between Karakol and Bishkek. The topography keeps Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan rural.
Kyrgyzstan
Karakol
After crossing the border we arrived in the small former Soviet Military Post town of Karakol. Today Karakol is known for its proximity to ski areas, and receives visitors from many countries in the ski season. We even found a sticker from the Pacific Northwest in a small coffee shop.
Pacific Northwest skiers have been here
On arrival in Karakol we had lunch and then had some time to wander around the small town. We enjoyed some beautiful and strange architecture, picked up some treats at the grocery store, and bought some lovely souvenirs at a small shop featuring local hand-made goods. Felting is a popular local handicraft and a perfect gift to take home.
Interesting architecture
Kinda weird. No idea what this was for.
We checked into our family run hotel which was really lovely, and after a long day Arne and I chose to skip dinner and have an early night. Next morning a delicious breakfast was served before we loaded up the van again and were off.
Before leaving the Karakol area we made a brief stop to visit the historic Dungan Mosque built in 1910. It has a unique Chinese style and was built without any nails – using a special cut and groove technique.
Dungan Mosque Karakol
We then made another quick stop to visit the Holy Trinity Orthodox Church, a beautiful Russian Orthodox Church made from wood and still in operation today.
Holy Trinity Orthodox Church
On our way out of town we stopped at a small park overlooking Issy Kul Lake that honors Nickolay Przhevalskiy who died in Karakol. Przhevalskiy was an explorer who traveled widely in Central Asia and Mongolia and documented and mapped the region.
Prezhevalskiy Memorial
Jeti Orghus Canyon
Now we settled in for a long drive into the gorgeous mountainous region surrounding the Issyk Kul Lake area. First we stopped to admire the picturesque geological feature roadside called the Seven Bulls. As amazing as that was, we soon learned there was much more in store.
Seven Bulls valley
Seven Bulls and two humans
Driving a short while further we arrived at a hiking location in the Jeti Orghus Canyon. It was a beautiful sunny and cool day, and we hiked up into the hills passing summer cabins and yurts. The views were amazing. Some went even further to a waterfall. Such a great hike and we worked up an appetite.
Jeti Orghus valley
Hiking up the hill for a view
Surrounded by beautiful mountains
Feeling so blessed!
Oopsy!
We headed back to the van to have a picnic lunch but we discovered our van had gotten into a soft spot and was really stuck. Our wonderful driver was trying so hard to solve the issue before we returned. It took about an hour but with the strong backs of some of our fellow travelers (as well as some of the engineer types putting their heads together) we were freed from the mud and eventually on our way. Luckily the weather was good and we all enjoyed another unexpected adventure.
Many helping hands
Opps, that is deep.
Problem solvers
Onward
As much as I enjoyed this beautiful location and hike, our next stop was mind blowing. Skazka, in English Fairy Tale Canyon, was so unexpected. Literally appearing like a red mirage out in the middle of the mountains, this geological formation was very reminiscent of Arches or Bryce Canyon National Park in the USA. We had some time to walk around in the maze of trails here, both with our guide Svetlana and on our own. I loved it so much and once again we were lucky with the cold dry weather. Such a treat.
So unexpected
Climbing up and down and all around
Me and our fabulous guide Svetlana
Isn’t nature amazing
Almaluu Yurt Camp
After this wonderful day we continued along the somewhat desolate road that runs along Issyk Kul Lake. This lake is one of the largest in the world at 178km long and 60 km wide. It definitely feels more like an ocean. We arrived at the wonderful Almaluu Yurt Camp just a short walk from the lake. Although in October the camp had only our group and one other, it has dozens of yurts for groups and individuals. The yurts were huge, with coal burning stoves, shared toilet and shower facilities, and a spectacular giant yurt for meals. We would spend two cozy nights here and we really enjoyed it, including the gorgeous views.
Our Cozy Yurt at Almaluu
The giant dining yurt
Welcome to Amaluu
Adventure and Education
The view from Amaluu
We woke up to chilly temperatures and after a delicious hot breakfast we headed out for an unexpectedly amazing day. When reading the days itinerary before hand, I would never have expected this day to turn out to be one of my favorites from the entire trip.
Eagles
Our driver took us off road out to a large open space, where we met a local man and his Golden Eagle. We learned the importance of eagle hunting in Kyrgyzstan, and still today there is a small group of 50 expert Master Eagle Trainers and hunters. Most have learned the art from their fathers. In addition to hunting and showing the tourists, an annual gathering called the Nomad Games takes place with competition for traditional cultural skills including eagle hunting, yurt building and more.
Such an interesting lesson in local culture – Master Eagle Hunters
We learned that the ancient art of eagle hunting is a UNESCO recognized cultural heritage activity and goes back thousands of years. Eagles that are used are always female. They begin their training about three months old. They are not pets. When they are twenty years old they are released back into the wild and assimilate well and will reproduce until they die – usually around 45 years old. This eagle we had the opportunity to get to know is three years old. She was beautiful and smart.
Arne seemed like a natural
I had some trouble – this bird was heavier than I expected!
The eagle is protecting it’s “kill”
They make a great team
Make Your Own Yurt
Well I had no idea what we were getting ourselves into, but what a fun we had learning how to make a yurt. Honestly it wasn’t all that hard…like putting up a tent with a few more details to take care of. We visited the home of a family of yurt-making professionals. Our hosts make yurts for people all over the world, and man now I want one. Each yurt is made in several parts that can easily be taken up and down and moved from location to location…just as the nomads used to do. The yurts are sturdy and warm. We learned the process from cutting the wood to weaving the decorative elements and then how it all goes together in a matter of about 30 minutes.
Our host family and teachers
Learning the skill
Arne gives it a go
Such a great design
Look at the carpet and walls – functional and beautiful
Yurts were a important part of nomad life in Kyrgyzstan and surrounding regions. They are still used today for lodging and guest houses but rarely as a full home in Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan. It was a full and fabulous day. Back to our own Yurt Camp for a special relaxing dinner, including some local alcoholic specialties Svetlana acquired for us. We slept very well.
End to an amazing day
Final Day
It was our final full day in Krygyzstan and our final day on this amazing four week tour. When we signed up for this tour I was worried four weeks would be too much. It wasn’t. We were continually stimulated, inspired and entertained. It had been a marvelous experience.
We had a very early morning departure for the long drive to the capital city of Bishkek. After checking into our older but comfortable hotel we headed out for a walking tour of the city. Bishkek is a fairly modern city in the Chu River Valley. It is the capital of Krygyzstan. Our walking tour took us to several monuments and important buildings as well as parks. The best part was the changing of the guard which takes place every hour.
Changing of the Guard
Bishkek
Bishkek
Farewell
Kyrgyzstan was authentic, beautiful and so worth it
Our final night on the tour, we all gathered together for a farewell dinner. I have not shared images of the entire group in any of my blog posts, because I forgot to ask permission from my fellow travelers. And I know one person in particular wasn’t keen on photos. I take that seriously. But I will say we felt very blessed to have such an amiable group, and especially to have such an outstanding guide. Intrepid Travel has my loyalty and I am sure we will travel with them again in the future.
The Five Stans; Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan were better than I imagined. As I’ve said in the past, it’s always our goal to travel with low expectations and then be pleasantly enchanted. I’ve been asked which of the five were my favorites? It’s a very difficult question; Uzbekistan had amazing architecture. Kazakhstan had amazing food and mountains. And Kyrgyzstan had spectacular scenery. My gratitude cup runneth over. Yes I am one lucky girl.
I hope you have enjoyed this 8 part series. I have enjoyed writing it. Thank you for your continued support, all your comments and questions. You are a great audience to My Fab Fifties Life adventures.
Thank you for reading Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan. Please see last week’s post about Incredible Kazakhstan here. Stay tuned for more! Our next departure day is January 16th! I wish you all the happiest of New Years. I hope 2025 brings you good health and many travel adventures.
We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts. Happy New Year.
Welcome to the seventh of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Incredible Kazakhstan The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.
Kazakhstan
It’s Huge
Kazakhstan is a land locked country in Central Asia. Most people don’t know much about it, or realize it is the ninth largest country in the world! It is the largest landlocked country and has a population of 20 million and one of the lowest population densities in the world, at fewer than 6 people per square kilometer. Kazakhstan was the fourth of the five Stan countries we visited on our tour with Intrepid Travel. We spent our time in the Southeast part of the country. We would have needed a few more weeks to see the rest of this diverse and beautiful nation. A remarkable place Incredible Kazakhstan The Good The Bad and the Beautiful.
Kazakhstan borders Russia, China, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Azerbaijan.
Kazakhstan
A Little History
The word Kazakh derives from Russian, meaning “to wander” and refers to the nomadic people of the region.
Kazakhstan has been inhabited since the Paleolithic era. In antiquity, it was dominated by multiple nomadic tribes. In the 13th century, Genghis Khan plundered and subjugated the people. Kazakh Khanate was established over an area roughly corresponding with modern Kazakhstan in the 15th century. By the 18th century, the Kazakh Khanate tribes were absorbed and conquered by the Russian Empire; by the mid-19th century, all of Kazakhstan was nominally under Russian rule. In 1936, its modern borders were established with the formation of the Kazakh Soviet Socialist Republic within the Soviet Union. Kazakhstan was the last constituent republic of the Soviet Union to declare independence in 1991 during its dissolution. (Wikipedia)
Most of the country is remote and rural
The Bad
Almaty was the capital of Kazakhstan when the USSR fell in 1991. But in 1998 Aqmola in the north became the capital of Kazakhstan for its more central location and was renamed Astana, which means “capital city” in Kazakh. In 2019, the name was changed to Nur-Sultan in honor of the first president of Kazakhstan, Nursultan Nazarbayev. Nazabyev however is described as a dictator for his long, brutal autocratic rule. The Kazakh people protested the naming of the capital city honoring a man not admired and In September 2022, the name was changed back to Astana. This grassroots protest was highly unusual and marked a change in policies for the country. During this violent period protesters also demanded the return of cap on gas prices. Dissatisfaction with the government and poverty fueled the demonstrations.
During our visit, we did not travel to Astana or beyond the Almaty region. I’d like to perhaps in the future.
Kazakhstan is rich with oil, natural gas and many minerals including uranium but the average monthly salary for the people of this country is about $500 USD. Gas prices currently are about $2 a gallon – some of the lowest in the world. We only ate in a couple restaurants but a meal for two was about $15 USD.
Charyn Canyon
The Good
We loved our time in the Almaty region. Some of the friendliest people on our tour we met here. We arrived in Almaty via a flight from Dushanbe, Tajikistan. Our arrival was late at night, and entering the country was easy and well organized. We had a nice modern hotel in Almaty and headed straight to bed after the late flight.
Almaty
Our lovely guide Svetlana let us sleep in a little, but after a quick breakfast we were off for a full day. First stop was the Issyk Cultural Historical Museum about 60km east of Almaty. Here we learned about the Golden Man – Kazakhstan’s National Symbol. This warrior was uncovered in a Saka Tomb and dates to the 5th Century. This indeed in itself is a great story…BUT this is not a man. DNA shows 100% the remains are a female, likely a Princess. However, the government has chosen to continue to present the symbol as a male. The museum presents the story as male, but since we had such a marvelous guide, she shared the truth with us. So many male egos… it annoyed me.
The Golden Man (who is actually a woman)
Burial Mounds at the Cultural Historic Museum
Sunshine
It was a beautifully sunny fall day and so I put my annoyance away as we headed next to the Issyk Lake. This lake was a resort area for Almaty area people but in 1963 a landslide washed away the dam, resorts and summer camp and killed many people. Today the lake sits silent and blue and is a very easy hike from the parking lot below.
Beautiful fall day at Issyk Lake
This amazing first day in Kazakhstan wasn’t over yet. In fact, we would end this day with one of my most favorite things of the entire trip. We arrived at the home of Slava, and the beautiful outdoor setting where we would be wined and dined into the evening. Slava Almaty is a family home and winery, creating gastronomic events for visitors. We enjoyed the wine, several courses including making our own pizza, lots of laughs and a perfect ending with fresh coffee and homemade grappa. An unforgettable day.
Wonderful activity
Slava making pizza
Amazing coffee over a fire
Beautiful wine
Quail, Pumpkin and Mushroom cooked in the outdoor oven
City Tour
Day two dawned a bit cold, and we could see the snow low on the Tien Shin Mountains around Almaty from our hotel room. We pulled out the outerwear and headed out for a full day walking around Almaty. Almaty has a good subway system and we used the metro to get around the city. We visited Republic Square and the Independence Monument while learning from Svetlana about Almaty and Kazakhstan recent past. We really enjoyed our tour of the Central State Museum of Kazakstan particular the wonderful textile and traditional costume displays.
Snowy Tien Shin Mountains
Historic clothing at Central State Museum
Weavers and carpet making display
Despite the chilly temperatures we road the gondola up Kok Tobe Hill for views overlooking the city. It would have been better on a clear day, but we still enjoyed it and used the free time to pick up some fun gifts to take back home to friends and family.
Kok Tob Hill Mural
History Remembered
Ending our day we walked through the very Soviet style Glory Memorial. This immense and beautiful monument remembers those who bravely sacrificed their lives on November 16, 1941. These soldiers destroyed 18 German tanks and halted the enemy’s advance. The twenty-eight soldiers were posthumously honored as Heroes of the Soviet Union.
Glory Memorial
Beautiful monument
We finished our walking tour at the beautiful Zenkov Cathedral (also known as Ascension Cathedral), a wooden Russian Orthodox church built in 1907. The church claims to be the second tallest wooden church in the world at 56 meters and was built without nails. Luckily it survived both the 1911 earthquake the Soviet era when it was used as a museum. It has had multiple restorations over the past fifty years and today is back in the hands of the Russian Orthodox Church and welcomes worshipers and visitors alike.
Zenkov Wooden Church
The Beautiful
Day Three in beautiful incredible Kazakhstan we left the city to explore the astonishing beauty of this region. Had we more time, my husband and I would have loved to spend weeks hiking the mountains of Kazakhstan. But we did feel lucky to be headed out into nature for the next couple of days. It was a long drive, but well worth it to our first stop Charyn Canyon.
Charyn Canyon
Excellent hiking day down to the river
Incredible geologic formations
Very reminiscent of Arizona or Utah, this breathtaking canyon lies about 120 miles from Almaty on the Kazakhstan-Chinese border. Worth the long drive on small winding roads, Charyn Canyon gave us some hiking opportunities and we reveled in the natural beauty. The destination at the bottom of the canyon was the Charyn River, cutting its way through the soft sandstone of the valley. It was both a hiker’s and a photographer’s dream. We felt lucky to have a dry day for this wonderful excursion. We loved our time here and were falling in love with Kazakhstan. By the time we were back in our van ready to go the sun was setting and we had another hour more drive to our night’s lodging.
Charyn River
Hiking and Homestay
Over the next two nights we stayed in a home stay, with apartment style accommodations and excellent food. Our host made sure we tried several local Kazakh foods including Baursak, a fried dough and Besbarmak a meat and noodle dish which is the national dish of Kazakhstan.
Baursak is fried dough, served warm
Besbarmak a meat and noodle dish is the national dish of Kazakhstan
The next day we were up early to do more hiking, this time at beautiful Lake Kaindy. This lake has an interesting history. It is a mountain lake in Kazakhstan’s portion of the Tian Shin Mountains. The lake was formed after an earthquake in 1911, which caused a major landslide, effectively creating a natural dam. Successively, rainwater filled the valley and created the lake.
Lake Kaindy
Hiking at Lake Kaindy
Getting up to Lake Kaindy from our valley accommodations was interesting. The “road” up to the park requires a special all-wheel drive vehicle. A cottage industry has developed for visitors. Old style Soviet “breadloaf” busses can be hired for the bumpy and a bit crazy drive up the rocky road. Once we arrived though, the color of the lake made it worthwhile. The trails were really muddy, but it still was a good work out and a wonderful hike.
Breadloaf Transportation
Hiking with horses on the same trail made the trail very muddy and messy
More Turquoise Lakes
After lunch back at the home stay we headed out again to another lake for a less strenuous hike. Lake Kolsay is much more easily accessed and is a very popular weekend destination for people from Almaty. It was pretty cold but we bundled up and did a loop on the wooden boardwalk around the lake. Some of our group took out paddle boats. We enjoyed the birds here too as well as seeing the interesting looking local squirrel. Time to head back to our home stay for a delicious dinner and early to bed. Our final night in Kazakhstan.
Lake Kolsay hike
Local squirrel. We loved his ears and color.
Incredible Kazakhstan
In the morning we headed out early for the long drive to cross the border into Kyrgyzstan – our final Stan of the tour. We drove on a high plateau with stunning mountain and river views before arriving at a desolate border crossing. On foot we made our way through one of the smallest border controls I have ever seen – entirely outdoors. The wind was howling and the temperatures were hovering around freezing as we trudged from Kazakhstan exit controls about 50 yards to Kyrgyzstan entry. Even the luggage scanner was just under a small cover. Surprisingly, despite the cold, the border officers on both sides were friendly and welcoming. After our van went through all the controls, we piled back in to get warm but laughing about another memorable experience. Incredible Kazakhstan. So glad we came!
The drive to the border was so beautiful
Very low snow near the border crossing
Thank you for reading my post Incredible Kazakhstan – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Please come back next week for my final Stan post as I share about Kyrgyzstan. Be sure to read last week’s post about Tiny Tajikistan.
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