Humorous and poignant, and told in a very funny voice of the protagonist, this unexpected book was one of my favorite reads on a recent travel trip. Here is my book review The True True Story of Raja the Gullible by Rabih Alameddine.
Sixty Years of Gullible
Raja tells the story of his life. At 63 he is living with his mother, in a tiny apartment with a dining room table that takes up most of the space. Raja, a philosophy teacher and the “neighborhood homosexual” just wants to live in peace in his sixties. But his 80 year old mother will have none of it. Raja has spent his whole life not really seeing who his mother really is, only that she meddles in his life.
Family
Raja despises his greedy brother who takes advantage of their mother. When Raja’s mother is left without a place to live due to his brother’s greedy tendencies, she moves in with Raja. And bring’s her family heirloom gigantic dining room table. Raja’s mother becomes active in neighborhood and Lebanese activism and Raja sees no peace in his future and needs to get away from his mother.
Unexpected
When Raja receives an invitation to attend a writing conferecne in the USA he jumps at the chance. But on arrival it doesn’t take long to see something is fishy. Ghosts from Raja’s past appear and he has to flee. Returning to Beirut thanks to his mother enlisting the help of her wealthy activist friend. Only after the death of Raja’s mother will he understand more clearly who she really was.
Book Review The True True Story of Raja the Gullible by Rabih Alameddine
Laugh out loud funny, Raja takes us through his sixty years of a life of trauma, drama and his mama, with humor and humility.
****Four stars for The True True Story of Raja the Gullible of Rabih Alameddine.
This is our final post about our wonderful five weeks in Mexico this winter. I am so intrigued by this country…not the beaches as much as the history, culture and the food. I can’t seem to get enough. On this most recent visit, I took a tamal cooking class in Mazatlan. Not only did I learn a lot about this delicious Mesoamerican treat, I also learned some great history. So today. Let’s Talk Tamales
Let’s Talk Tamales
What are Tamales?
The word tamales is plural for tamal, a dough wrapped in a corn husk, often including meat or vegetables, and steamed to make a solid but soft delicious treat.
Tamales originated in Mesoamerica as early as 8000–5000 BC, making them one of the oldest known corn-based dishes. Developed by early civilizations like the Olmecs and Maya as portable food for warriors and hunters, they were adopted by the Aztecs and spread throughout the Americas.
Before food processors the corn was hand milled on a stone
Candelmas
We coincidentally found ourselves in Mazatlan on February 2nd, a national Mexican holiday associated with the Catholic Church called Candelmas or Candelaria. I was not familiar with this holiday nor of the association it has to tamales. Here is what I learned;
Tamales are associated with Día de la Candelaria because of a rich, blend of indigenous Aztec agricultural traditions and Catholic celebrations brought by the Spanish. February 2nd marks the end of the holiday season, where tamales—representing abundance and community—are served to honor the blessing of corn and the birth of Jesus.
Candelaria (Pinterest)
Historical and Cultural Significance
Historically, February 2nd aligned with the Aztec start of the new year and the planting season. Indigenous peoples offered maize-based foods, like tamales, to gods such as Tlaloc (god of rain) to ensure a prosperous harvest. When the Spanish arrived, they blended these rituals with the Catholic feast of Candlemas, which commemorates the presentation of Jesus at the temple and the blessing of candles.
The tradition is also tied to the Three Kings’ Day (Jan 6th). Whoever finds the figurine of baby Jesus in the Rosca de Reyes bread is designated the host for the Candelaria party and is responsible for providing the tamales.
Learning from the Locals
Although I had made tamales at home once before (not too bad for a first effort) I was excited to have a class with Tomatl, a Mazatlan food company offering food tours and cooking classes. This special tamales class is only offered once a year in conjunction with the Candlearia celebration.
In the kitchen with Paola
Paola was a fun and informative teacher
Step by Step
We gathered at the home of Paola, the owner of Tomatl. Spending the day with Paola and 6 other cooking class guests we tolied and laughed and created and ate. It was a great day.
Savory Tamales
We made two kinds of tamales. The first using dry corn we rehydrated and mixed with Masa Flour. This dough we spread on dry corn husks that had been soaked in boiling water to make them plyable. We added some vegetables and delicious tender slow roasted pork. Then we learned how to carefully wrap the corn husks and tying them with strips of corn husk. Into the giant steamer they go for an hour and 20 minutes. Here is Paola’s recipe;
Frijoles Puercos (Pork Style Beans)
Ingredients
1 kg (2.2 lb) dried beans (preferably azufrado beans)
¾–1 kg (1.6–2.2 lb) lard
½ kg (1.1 lb) Mexican chorizo
1 can sardines in tomato sauce (remove the backbone inside)
210 gr of tomatoe pure
½ kg (1.1 lb) Cotija cheese (reserve some for garnish)
Salsa Huichol, to taste or any can of chile sauce could be Valentina
Green olives
Fresh jalapeño chile
Dried chile de árbol (to fry before adding the chorizo)
Procedure
Prepare the beans Clean the beans, cook them until tender, and mash them.
Start with the lard In a pot, melt the lard over low heat. Fry the dried chile de árbol briefly — do not let it burn, as it will turn bitter. Remove and reserve for garnish.
Cook the chorizo Fry the chorizo in the lard, but do not let it brown too much.
Add the beans Once the chorizo is cooked, add the mashed beans. Let them cook for about 5 minutes.
Incorporate remaining ingredients gradually Add the sardines. Then add the tomato purée and Salsa Huichol or Valentina Keep the heat low at all times and stir constantly. Wait about 5 minutes between adding each ingredient.
Finish the mixture Add the Cotija cheese, olives, and sliced jalapeño. Continue cooking over low heat, stirring constantly to prevent sticking.
🔥 Cooking Notes
Total cooking time is approximately 1 hour, always over low heat.
Stir continuously.
The key is that the beans must “render” — meaning you’ll see the fat rise to the top and become visible. That’s how you know they’re ready.
🌶 To Serve
After about an hour, once ready:
Top with diced Cotija cheese
Garnish with the fried chile de árbol
Serve warm with fresh tortillas or as a party dip.
Dried Corn
Preparing the meat
Savory tamal preparation
Teamwork
Sweet Tamales
The second tamales we made were made with elote – the name in Spanish for sweet, fresh corn. We removed the corn from the cob, preserving the husks. In a blender the dough was created with the fresh corn, lard, sugar and Masa Harina flour. When the dough was ready, we used the fresh corn husks to wrap the dough, tying once again with strips of fresh corn husk.
Here is Paola’s recipe;
Sweet Corn Tamales (Tamales de Elote)
(12 tamales)
Ingredients
8 tender fresh corn ears, kernels removed
120 g (½ cup) unsalted butter, softened
2 teaspoons melted lard
1 tablespoon baking powder
15 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons powdered milk
Corn husks (from the same ears or dried husks, soaked in warm water until pliable)
Instructions
Prepare the corn
In a food processor, grind the fresh corn kernels until very finely blended, forming a soft paste with only a few small lumps remaining. The texture should be moist and slightly thick.
Preparing Fresh Corn Husks for Tamales
When making tamales de elote, you can use the fresh husks from the same corn instead of dried ones.
Remove and Cut the Husks
Peel Carefully: Gently pull back the husks from each ear of corn without tearing them. Try to keep the largest outer husks intact — these are the best for wrapping.
Separate by Size
Large, wide husks → Use for wrapping the tamales.
Small or torn pieces → Save for lining and covering the steamer.
Trim if Necessary
Cut off the thick stem end at the base.
If a husk is very long, trim the narrow tip so it’s easier to fold.
The ideal size is large enough to hold 2–3 tablespoons of batter comfortably.
Soak the Husks
Rinse them under cool water to remove any silk or debris.
Place them in a large bowl or basin.
Cover with very warm (not boiling) water.
Let them soak for about 20–30 minutes, until flexible and pliable.
The goal is to make them soft enough to fold without cracking.
5. Dry Them Before Using
Remove the husks from the water.
Shake off excess water.
Lay them flat on a clean kitchen towel.
Pat them dry gently — they should be damp and flexible, but not dripping wet.
Tip for Steaming
Use the smaller husks to line the bottom of the steamer.
Place a few extra husks on top of the tamales before covering the pot. This helps trap steam and prevents water droplets from falling onto the tamales.
Make the batter
Transfer the ground corn to a mixing bowl. Add the softened butter, melted lard, baking powder, sugar, and powdered milk.
Mix thoroughly until all ingredients are fully incorporated and the batter is smooth.
Wrapping the Tamales
Drain the soaked corn husks and pat them dry.
Place about 2–3 tablespoons of batter in the center of each husk.
Fold the sides inward, then fold up the bottom to enclose the filling.
Arrange the tamales upright in a steamer pot, open side facing up.
Steaming
Add water to the bottom of a steamer pot (make sure the water does not touch the tamales).
Cover with extra husks or a clean kitchen towel.
Steam over medium-low heat for about 60–75 minutes.
Check occasionally to ensure the water does not run out.
The tamales are done when:
The dough feels firm to the touch
The husk easily pulls away from the tamal
They hold their shape when opened
Let them rest for 5–10 minutes before serving.
Fresh corn gets pulverized in the food processor
Spreading the sweet corn dough
The cobs are layered in the bottom of the pan before the tamales go in.
You definitely need a big pot
Let’s talk Tamales
This is definitely one of my new favorite foods and I will be practicing at home. Though time consuming, it is a labor of love and you really should give it a try. If you don’t want to tackle these more difficult recipes on your first try, you might consider trying a simpler recipe like this one for tamales I found on Pinterest. But I encourage you to try the authentic version… you won’t regret it. Since Tamales are a symbol of unity, because the corn from the harvest is processed and shared with family and friends, I think they would make a great addition to your Easter table. I love the history of indigenous and Catholic traditions and the importance they have to ancestors and honoring the earth.
Ta Da!
Thank you for reading my post Let’s Talk Tamales and for following all my posts from our visit to Mexico. Please see last week’s post Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico here.
We love it when you pin, share and comment on our blog posts. Gracias.
This novel I listened to, a 2024 Booker shortlist, on Audible. I loved it for it’s quiet prose and lovely voice. I wonder if I would have loved it as much if I had read the physical book? But for me it was a much needed book of meaning and empathy during this crazy time in our world. Here is my book review Stone Yard Devotional by Charlotte Wood.
Reflection
This quiet, contemplative novel is written and read in a direct style. At times it feels like you are intruding on someone’s private journal. The narrator, whose name we never know, has left her life and job in Sydney Australia. She has retreated to a rural religious community. Despite her agnostic beliefs, she finds a new home in the community as she faces her past and her personal grief and despair.
Stillness
Throughout the book we meet and begin to understand the Sisters of the commune, and members of the community. We are introduced to one visiting Nun whose presence brings back a flood of regret for our narrator. Though stillness and reflection is a major part of life of the community, daily trials persist. The trials include COVID, a mouse plague, lack of resources, and the sudden reappearance of a murdered and missing nun. This creates meaningful and thoughtful introspection for each resident to deal with grief, faith, forgiveness and the reality of the world we occupy.
Book Review Stone Yard Devotional by Charlotte Wood
I thought this was a beautiful book and the reader of the Audible version was perfect. It opens a thoughtful narrative of how the difficulties of the world can bring us to our knees. And how stillness can calm the chaos.
*****Five stars for Stone Yard Devotional by Charlotte Wood.
In 1982 we went to Mazatlan on our honeymoon. Yep…43 years ago. I’m not sure why we have never been back, because we had a great honeymoon. But, we hadn’t. Until now. Joining our lifelong friends for a wonderful return to Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico – beaches and so much more!
There we are, dancing the night away on our Mazatlan Honeymoon 1982
Beaches and So Much More
Go for the beaches of course, but there is so much more. We found a place much changed in 43 years… much more developed with large hotels and resorts. But also with a preserved old town, quaint and colorful revitalized historic neighborhoods and an abundance of incredible restaurants. Maybe not as authentic as the Mazatlan of 1982, but full of charm, culture and cuisine. Here is what we enjoyed on our visit to Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico.
Morning coffee on the beach
Arrival
Mazatlan’s small international airport has direct flights from many domestic airports and a few international airports as well. We arrived from Mexico City. Although the Benito Juarez International Airport in Mexico City is one of my least favorites, arriving in Mazatlan was easy. We quickly had our bags and found the taxi kiosk to get a ride into the city, about 30 minutes away. Taxi to the city is 550 pesos, about $32 USD.
Mazatlan Beaches
In 2026 there are literally thousands of places to stay in Mazatlan, with extensive construction underway for even more. But on this visit we were lucky to stay with our friends, who have a time share with Vacation International at Torres Mazatlan. We shared a lovely two bedroom unit and enjoyed the beach, pool and all the amenities.
The beautiful pool at Torres Mazatlan
Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico
Enjoying time with our friends, who visit Mazatlan every year, we spent our visit exploring some of the best this city has to offer. Sure we also spent some time enjoying the beach and pool, and additionally found great food, history and cultural activities. Here are some suggestions;
Take a Cooking Class
When in Mazatlan do not miss taking a cooking class with Paola and Tomatl.mx. We took a special once a year tamales class, always held on Candelaria. Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas), celebrated on February 2nd, is a major Mexican holiday marking the end of the Christmas season, blending Catholic traditions with indigenous customs and always celebrated with tamales. Check next week’s blog to learn more about tamales and Dia de la Candelaria. But through out the year Paola offers multiple classes. She is a great teacher and we had so much fun learning from her. Next time I want to try her Taco class.
Cooking Tamales with my friend Sue
The art of Tamal making
So many tamales
Don’t Miss a Food and History Tour
We also spent a wonderful day with Paola on a food tour. You know I love a good food tour and our Tomatl.mx food tour was awesome. Mazatlan is a pretty large city, so instead of a walking tour, we used a local transportation option called a ‘spider”. Eight guests plus Paola, we visited at least eight places around the city, including the port and old town. Throughout the tour we learned so much great history and cultural food insights. We also learned that Mazatlan is the second largest shrimp port in Mexico. Shrimp is the star of much of Mazatlan’s cuisine, and it is fresh and delicious right off the boat.
This. OMG. New to me taco called Birria. Like a taco meets a French Dip. So good.
This lovely Abuella has been serving breakfast from this cart for decades
This delicious taco had us pour broth over the top.
Hundreds of shrimp boats call Mazatlan Port home
Walk the Malecon
If you are up to it, you can walk the entire 21km (13miles) of the beautiful Mazatlan Malecon. You can’t get better views and the Malecon is dotted with funky and fun restaurants and shrimp shacks. The oldest section of Mazatlán’s Malecón was constructed in the 1830s, originally built to protect the city from flooding. Today it is the place to see and be seen. Many events and activities, including the annual Mardi Gras parade, takes place on the Malecon.
One of the locals on the Malecon beach
Mazatlan Malecon
Malecon prepares for Mardi Gras
Climb to the Lighthouse
I wasn’t sure about hiking to the top of Lighthouse Hill since I’m having trouble with my knee, but I did it and it was fine. It is certainly a work out, but I recommend it for the fabulous views. At the top you can enjoy a 360 degree view of Mazatlan and the Pacific Ocean. If you want to pay you can also step out onto the glass deck (we did not). And the top of Lighthouse Hill is also home to the Faro Lesa Zipline. If you don’t want to walk back down, the zipline will get you there in about 60 seconds. We walked. LOL.
The best view in town from Lighthouse Hill
Beautiful
We saw lots of interesting plants and birds too
Enjoy the Observatory
The Mazatlán Observatory, known today as Observatorio 1873, traces its origins to the 19th century. The hill where it stands was originally used as a military lookout point to protect the port of Mazatlán from possible naval attacks.
Funicular takes you up to the top
One of the funnest things we did was visit the restored observatory. Today it serves as a cultural and educational attraction. After extensive renovation in the 21st century, visitors can explore a museum, botanical gardens, a bird sanctuary, and a sky bar, while also enjoying incredible views. Don’t miss this!
Bird Sanctuary
and more…
The beautiful historic building is now a museum
Wander through Old Town
Mazatlán founded in 1531 by Spanish explorer Nuño de Guzmán, evolved from a small indigenous settlement into a major Pacific port. It became a bustling international hub in the 19th century, shaped by German immigrants who established commerce and the Pacifico Brewery.
When in Mazatlan drink Pacifico
Old Town (Centro Histórico) has undergone extensive revitalization, transforming it into a vibrant cultural hub with 19th-century architecture, plazas, and the restored Angela Peralta Theater.
Colorful Centro Historico
Mazatlan Cathedral
Recent efforts in 2024-2025 focus on enhancing the urban image through improved sanitation, lighting, graffiti removal, and the installation of informational plaques, supported by a mix of public and private investment. Plazuela Machado: The heart of the district is surrounded by sidewalk cafes and restored, brightly colored colonial buildings.
Mercado
Fabulous shopping in Plazuela Machado
Take time to enjoy the shops, Mercado, cathedral, and the festive atmosphere.
So Much Wonderful Food
We came. We saw. We ate. Mexico’s cuisine is absolutely one of the best, if not THE best, in the world. And Mazatlan does not disappoint. Home to one of the largest shrimping fleets in Mexico, Mazatlan loves shrimp and you will find it on nearly every menu. Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico menus also feature fish, ceviche, avocado, fruits, pork, beef, masa, cheese and of course Pacifico Beer (founded in Mazatlan).
Shrimp, shrimp and more shrimp
Fish is fresh and local
Our favorite restaurants we visited were;
Topolo Mazatlan Mexican Restaurant we enjoyed an outstanding meal at this beautiful courtyard restaurant in Centro Historico. I highly recommend you get a reservation and visit Topolo when in Mazatlan.
Topolo’s beautiful courtyard
Shrimp!
Perfect end to a great day
Los Panchos you can’t beat the beach front view and don’t miss the tableside Tequila Cheese! Oh My God it was so good, and also fun to watch. The menu is big and everything is delicious. Highly recommend a visit to Los Panchos.
El Muchacho Alegre waterside spot with outstanding seafood, a perfect stop when strolling the Malecon. We enjoyed a gigantic ceviche and cold cerveza on a hot day.
More ceviche. I can’t get enough.
Lunch with a view.
Posado Freeman Rooftop Bar – we did not eat at the Posado Freeman Hotel, but enjoyed drinks at the fabulous rooftop bar at sunset. Get there early…it’s worth it.
Sunset from the rooftop at Posado Freeman
Can’t beat that view
Explore all that Mazatlan has to Offer
Mazatlan is alive with culture, color and cuisine. Enjoy the beach, but don’t miss out on all the other wonderful things in the beautiful little city by the sea. We definitely won’t wait another 43 years before we visit again. Gracias Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico.
Unique plot and storyline, I enjoyed this book very much. Here is my book review The Names by Florence Knapp.
What’s In a Name?
Knapp’s debut novel creates a unique and intriguing plot, that explores how the choice of a child’s given name may change the course of his and his family’s life. Spanning 35 years in 7 year increments, The Names will keep your turning the page.
Bear
Mother Cora and her 9 year old daughter take the baby to register his name. Abusive father Gordon expects and assumes Cora will name the child Gordon…there really has been no other name considered. But Cora is hesitant. Nine year old Maia suggests the name Bear. She says it’s warm and cuddly but also brave and strong. That night, when Gordon finds out Cora has named the child Bear…someone will die, leaving the survivors behind to deal with the results of that one decision.
Julian
In another scenario mother Cora registers her choice of name, Julian, instead of Gordon. She reasons that since the name means Father Sky, Gordon will accept her choice. Julian, born to be an artist, can’t possibly know how this decision will affect the future of the family. And not just the immediate family of four but his grandmother in Ireland as well. But mostly it will affect Cora’s future.
Gordon
After years of physical and mental abuse, mother Cora does not go against her husband’s choice of naming their son Gordon. But Cora finds it hard to love this child who carries the name of the man she despises. She is distant and Gordon grows up thinking abuse is normal…despite a nagging feeling something isn’t right.
Choices
Each of these stories is told in parallel timelines, following the results of the choice made. The novel explores themes of abuse, decisions, free-will, alcohol, family, sexual persuasion and love. I enjoyed this well done novel. Thanks for reading my book review The Names by Florence Knapp.
Mexico City. It amazes me. We visited for the third time and still could not possibly see all it has to offer. Rich with history, culture and food, it is one of my favorite cities in the world. If you think Mexico is only beaches and tacos, you are missing out. Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm.
Mexico City
Why Third Time?
I had avoided Mexico City, assuming that a city of 23 million people could not be charming. The largest city in North America (New York City is 9 million), Mexico City seemed daunting to me. But in late 2021, when Mexico was one of the few places open for travel, we decided to visit for a five day food tour organized for us by Eat Like a Local Mexico. Here is the post I wrote following that unique experience Eating My Way Through Mexico City.
Food Tour with Eat Like a Local Mexico City in 2021
And I was smitten. After the first visit we realized how much more there was to see and do beyond just food! So two years later we returned, to eat and to discover more deeply this remarkable city. Here is my report from that lovely experience So Much to Love About Mexico City.
So here we are again in 2026 Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm. On this visit we set out to see more new to us areas of this amazing city, as well as one day trip. We also took advantage of revisiting three of our favorites. Let me tell you all about Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm.
What’s so Special
In a word, it’s the people. Not just in Mexico City, but everyone we have met throughout Mexico are incredibly kind and happy. They are kind to each other and to visitors. So much laughter. They are patriotic, and proud of the diverse history and culture they share. Religion and faith play a big part of their lives. When we stumble with the language, someone comes to the rescue. They love it when a visitor uses small amounts of Spanish. Never mocking. Just helping.
Street food vendor in Mexico City
History of Mexico City
You might be surprised to know, Mexico City is built on top of a lake. This giant city began on an island in what was once a lake. Today Mexico City has structural issues because of it. Here is some history to understand it a bit better;
Ancient Tenochtitlan
Mexico City, the oldest capital in the Americas, was founded as the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan on an island in Lake Texcoco in 1325. Tenochtitlan, evolved into the senior partner of the Aztec Triple Alliance that dominated central Mexico immediately prior to the Spanish conquest of 1519–1521. At its height, Tenochtitlan had enormous temples and palaces, a huge ceremonial center, and residences of political, religious, military, and merchants. Its population was estimated at least 100,000 and perhaps as high as 200,000 in 1519 when the Spaniards first saw it. During the final stage of the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire, Spanish forces razed Tenochtitlan. Because it was strategically and politically important, invader Hernán Cortés founded the Spanish colonial capital of Mexico City on its ruins, becoming the center of Spanish colonial power. (Edited from Wikipedia)
Cathedral Metropolitan
Today’s city of 23 million people stretches 1,485 to 1,525 square kilometers (571–589 square miles), with the remains of the original Tenochtitlan found in what is known today as El Zocalo, the heart of the city.
Hidden Gems and Old Favorites
Now that I know this city better, I realize how many hidden gems there are, and how hard it is to really see it in one visit. So, let’s try three times. First, let me tell you about three Old Favorites;
Ballet Folkloric – Our second visit to this beautiful show was just as good as the first time. Now in its 67th year, if you come to Mexico City and don’t see this performance of traditional Mexican dance, you haven’t seen Mexico City. I would go a third time if I visit again. The theater is stunning.
Ballet Folkloric
Amazing Color
Incredible performance and tradition
Eat Like a Local – Our third time doing a food tour with Eat Like a Local. I believe this company to be the best food tour companies in the world. And guess what? They just were featured in the New York Times. They have grown and gotten even better since we first got to know them in 2021. Spend a little extra and enjoy the hidden foods of CDMX with Eat Like a Local Mexico. You won’t regret it.
We love Eat Like a Local Mexico
Find the hidden gems with Eat Like a Local like this Michelin Star Taco Stand
Yum.
El Zocalo – The heart of Mexico City is the El Zocalo also known as Constitution Square. Always something going on, always something entertaining, Zocalo is a must. Here you find the center of Aztec Tenochtitlán, known as the Teocalli. As well as the home and offices of Mexico’s President, the National Palace (see more about this below). And standing sentry over it all is the Catedral Metropolitana, an icon of the city. Construction began in 1573 but took 240 years to complete. Don’t miss it.
Teocalli
Changing events and art exhibits in El Zocalo
El Zocalo
Hidden Gems
National Palace – tricky to get the free ticket, but you should try. The National Palace is home to Mexico’s President, as well as her office. It is a high-security building, but visitors are allowed in to view the remarkable Diego Rivera murals that took him 21 years to paint. Tickets are not available online or by phone. You must go to the office located at #4 Moneda Street at 9:30am and wait in line to get a reserved time. Come back at your reserved time. You must have ID and no bags or purses allowed (you can check it), only cell phones and wallets. Totally worth the trouble. One of the best things to see in all of Mexico City.
Diego Rivera mural in the National Palace
Temple Mayor – on our first visit to CDMX we did a walking tour, and visited the ruins of Tenochtitlan in the Zocalo. But we did not realize until this visit, what gem of a museum is included at this historic site. We had intended on revisiting the Anthropology Museum, but opted to do Temple Mayor instead, and I am so very glad we did. Allow plenty of time for this remarkable museum of the history of this Aztec site and of Mexico. You will find this easily at El Zocalo.
Temple Mayor Museum display of thousands of artifacts inside the museum
Ruins of Tenochtitlan at the Temple Mayor
Tenochtitlan
In the Tepeyac Neighborhood
Basilica Guadelupe – this vast complex is a very important site for the very devout Catholic people of Mexico. Even if you are not Catholic, or even religious, it’s fascinating to visit. The complex is made up of multiple churches, and shrines including the shrine at the top of the hill commemorating the miracle. In 1531 an apparition of the Virgin Mary appeared to indigenous peasant St. Juan Diego on Tepeyac Hill. She requested a shrine, and as proof for the bishop, she caused roses to bloom in winter and imprinted her image on Juan Diego’s tilma (cloak), which remains intact after nearly 500 years. The faithful make pilgrimages here and it is a very important shrine.
Today several of the churches are sinking (very visible) and after the 1985 earthquake there was much damage. A new, giant and very modern church is now part of the complex. The site offers both history and a fascinating opportunity to see the customs and faith of the local people who make pilgrimage to Basilica Guadelupe. It’s easy to take th subway to the complex from the historic center.
Basilica de Guadalupe
The new church is modern and huge
Sinking church
And There is More
Diego Rivera Mural Museum Museo Mural Diego Rivera – Established in 1988 specifically to house the 1947 mural “Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central” (Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central), which was saved after the 1985 earthquake. Following the devastating earthquake, this mural, which had been in the lobby of the Ritz Hotel, was quickly secured. The hotel was a complete loss. This new museum was designed specifically to house this important work of art of Rivera. Diego Rivera is an iconic figure of Mexico City.
Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central
It’s important to note that the main museum of Rivera’s work is located in the CDMX neighborhood of Coyacan. Anahuicalli is a masterful museum and you should consider visiting it as well.
Close of mural that includes Diego and Frieda
Popular Art Museum – this museum was a complete surprise to us. Located very near to the Diego Rivera Mural Museum, you can easily combine the two. The layout of this museum is a bit strange, because it is located inside an old firehouse. But the preservation of Mexico folk art and handicrafts is definitely worth a visit. Baskets, textiles, sculpture, pottery, paper mache and much more. I enjoyed it very much.
Textiles are always my favorite.
Paper Mache art
Day of the Dead Folkart
Day Trip
Puebla and Cholula – we used VIATOR to take an all day tour to Puebla and the great pyramid of Cholula. We learned a lot about this fascinating region of Mexico, which was new to us. Our guides were enthusiastic and informative. I think if you have the time you should spend more than one day though. I would have liked a couple of days in the beautiful city of Puebla. It’s a long day, but if you can, I recommend a visit. It is possible to go by bus from CDMX and less expensive than a tour, but you should consider staying overnight if you take the bus.
The ancient Pyramid at Cholula and the basilica built on top
Ancient pyramid
Lots of steps to the church
Colorful streets of Puebla
Puebla City
No room in the suitcase…so beautiful.
How to Get Around
Do Not Uber. Seriously, traffic in Mexico City is bad, and a taxi or Uber will be slow and expensive. Take the subway. We went everywhere on the subway. It is clean, efficient, on time, safe and CHEAP ($0.25 per ride). Don’t fear the subway in Mexico City.
Subway in CDMX
Safety
We felt safe every where we went in CDMX. As in any city, there are areas you should avoid. Mexico City is well known for protests on any day and at any time. Be prepared for detours due to protests. For your protection don’t participate in protests. The subway is safe, and stay in the tourist areas. Hire guides to visit other areas, including if you want to visit the gigantic La Merced Market. And be aware, drivers in Mexico are fast and aggressive, but usually yield to pedestrians in cross walks. Be a smart and aware traveler as you would in any destination and you will enjoy this beautiful city.
We walked everywhere and used the Subway and felt very safe
Where to Stay
Casa de la Luz – our past two visits we stayed at the fabulous Red Tree House boutique hotel in the Condesa neighborhood. It wasn’t available this time, so we chose Casa de la Luz in the historic center. Wow. We absolutely loved this beautiful hotel, the staff and the amazing breakfast. It was also really great to be within walking distance of all the major attractions as well as several subway stations. We paid $150 USD per night – a bargain for what we got.
Casa de la Luz Lobby
Standard room was comfortable.
Breakfast was amazing
Where to Eat
Tezontle – Little did we know when we booked our hotel Casa de la Luz that it was home to one of the best restaurants in the historic center of the city. On our final night in the city we had an exceptional meal that included ceviche, tableside salsa preparation, mushroom salad, tableside soup preparation and more. Served with a smile.
Tezontle Ceviche
Delicious mushroom salad
Tableside stone soup preparation
Roldan 37 – I saw a suggestion on Instagram for Roldan 37, and I jumped right on it because it was only a few blocks from our hotel. Wow. We loved our meal here in a beautiful unique space in a new-to-us neighborhood. This restaurant we highly recommend ordering the customized tableside preparation of guacamole – don’t leave out the chapulines (toasted grasshoppers)! We loved this entire meal.
Fantastic meal at Roldan 37
Tableside guacamole at Roldan 37
Wall of Chili’s at Roldan 37
Sanborns – Frida and Diego loved to “be seen” here, and you should too. Even if you don’t get into the beautiful restaurant, you should at least admire the gorgeous blue tiled building, known as La Casa de los Azulejos. The building has been home to Sanborns Department store, and famous restaurant since 1919.
La Casa de los Azulejos
Eat Like a Local Mexico – and another shout out for Eat Like a Local. Because you will never leave an Eat Like a Local tour hungry. Offering both day, night, market and other unique tour options. This is where you really get to know the food of the people of Mexico City.
Eating our way through Mexico City with Eat Like a Local
Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm
Third time IS a charm. But I suspect we aren’t yet done with this amazing city. There are many more museums, restaurants, historic sites, markets and oh my goodness, so much food yet to enjoy. Mexico City. One of the most incredible cities in all the world…and you know I am qualified to say so. We will visit again.
Always something going on in the Zocalo
Popocatépetl, affectionately known as “El Popo” or “Don Goyo,”is an active stratovolcano located about 70 km out of the city
As always I thank you for your continued support and interest in the work we do here. I invite you to comment and ask questions, to share and to pin. Come back next week for more about amazing Mexico. It never gets old.
This novel was my choice for my book club for 2026. We each chose one book and this was mine. I chose it because it’s a book that would appeal to a wide range of readers. Here is my book review Heartwood by Amity Gaige.
Appalachian Trail, Maine
The setting for this book is beautiful Maine, one of my favorite places in the USA. Gaige beautifully describes the nature of the Appalachian Trail, as we get to know details about missing hiker, 42 year old Valerie Gillis. The search and rescue team looking for Valerie is headed by Game Warden Beverly, who has the auspicious title of the first women to hold this post in Maine.
Female Leads
Through out this suspenseful novel the author blends perspectives and story-lines back and forth of three unique women; Valerie the missing hiker and her personal struggles with self, Beverly the Game Warden and her own challenges in her career and personal life, and Lena an elderly women using her computer “friend” to combat loneliness.
These three women will become connected in a surprising suspenseful thriller in the Maine woods.
Pieces of the Puzzle
Without giving too much away, I recommend this novel for it’s interesting setting and character development. Themes of survival, self-confidence, mother/daughter relationships, marriage, career, emotional depth, midlife and the will to live. This is the first novel I have read by Amity Gaige and I found her writing engaging and easy to read.
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