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Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands

February 21, 2025

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Location: Rarotonga Cook Islands

Kia Orana! “Kia Orana” is a Cook Islands greeting that means “may you live long” or “may you have a long and fulfilling life”. It’s more than just a greeting, it’s a wish for a good future and a core part of Cook Islands culture. This is what you will find in this tiny island nation in the middle of the South Pacific. We came with no expectations, and went away blessed by the beauty and kindness that penetrates this island. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.

Why Rarotonga?

As we planned our travels for 2025 we knew we wanted to return to Australia – one of our favorite countries in the world. Visiting Australia during their summer, is perfect for leaving behind the dreary Northern hemisphere winters

So, it was a natural fit to spend some time in Hawaii, and then take the non-stop flight Hawaiian Air offers from Honolulu to Rarotonga every Saturday. Why not? We have the time, the flight is only five hours and though not cheap, it got us closer to Australia. Cook Islands here we come.

A Few Details

The Cook Islands uses the New Zealand dollar. ATM machines are available all over and most businesses accept credit cards as well. As of this writing the NZ dollar is .57 cents per one US dollar. Very good rate for Americans.

Snorkeling is a very popular activity on Rarotonga

Our cell provider Verizon does not include The Cook Islands in their international plan. Once on the island one option is purchase the Vodaphone hotspot service for WiFi. Most hotels do not offer a separate WiFi service. We paid $35NZ for five days/50G, up to three devices. Another option is to get a Vodaphone SIM or Esim at the airport. We did the Vodaphone hotspot option, which worked pretty well as there are hotspots all around the island. However, during a big storm we had, the Wifi was unavailable.

Lots of sunshine and rain creates a lush island setting

You can rent cars; we did not, and scooter rentals are also popular. We just used the bus. Taxi service is also available but no Uber.

How to get here – Air New Zealand (via Auckland) is an option, but for Americans it’s much easier to fly to Honolulu and then take Hawaiian Air which has a weekly flight on Saturday and a return flight on Sunday evening. JetStar flies direct from Sydney.

We arrived on Hawaiian and departed on JetStar

No Expectations

As we do in much of our travel, we arrived Rarotonga with no expectations. We knew it was a small island but we knew little else. The island is volcanic, with an area of 67.39 km² (26.02 sq mi), and is home to almost 75% of the country’s population, with 10,898 of a total population of 15,040. On our arrival we found spectacular beauty untainted by mass tourism; friendly, welcoming, and kind local people, tropical weather (both sun and rain), delicious food and a distinct faith-based culture and customs. As we read prior to arrival, the island felt much like Hawaii likely did 50-75 years ago. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.

What to Do?

Don’t come to Rarotonga if you expect to be wined and dined in fancy settings, or stay in large upscale American brand resorts or have world class shopping. It is not that kind of place. There are activities on the island if you are a diver or want to snorkel with turtles and rays and learn about the local sea life. Many whales come here in season. You will also find some hiking options, bird watching and cycling tours. There is a tiny bit of shopping, particularly if you are in the market for the local black pearl. We chose to do a whole lot of nothing, during our one week visit. We can however wholeheartedly recommend the following;

Palm Grove Resort – we are so grateful we stumbled into the Palm Grove Resort. Perfect location with beach and pool. Beach-front and pool-front bungalows, as well as some larger options too. We loved our little bungalow poolside. We enjoyed the free snorkel gear and kayaks and dined on absolutely delicious meals and breakfast (included in the price) at the Yellow Hibiscus restaurant. But best of all was the kind staff and excellent service – always with a smile and a Kia Orana. For our poolside Bungalow we paid $165 USD per night.

Our bungalow perfect for two people, bigger options available

Cook Islands Bus – on time and comfortable. We used the Cook Islands bus several times during our visit. One bus goes clockwise the other counterclockwise. One price $5NZ no matter how far you are going – unless you buy a ticket packet of ten for $3.50NZ each.

Fun Stuff

Hike to Waterfall and Needle – Te Rua Manga or the Needle is a rocky spire in the Rarotonga mountains. It rises to an elevation of 413 metres above sea level. The spire itself is a breccia structure. There is a walking track to the base of the spire. This hike is not for novice hikers, but will certainly give you a 360 degree view. There are guides who can take you. We saw new to us birds and wonderful flora.

Titikaveka, Rarotonga – Voted as one of the top 25 beaches in the South Pacific by Trip Advisor, Titikaveka features bright turquoise blue water and white sandy beaches shaded by palm trees. We enjoyed the access to this beach from Palm Grove.

Highland Paradise – at the recommendation of the staff at Palm Grove, we spent an evening with Highland Paradise. We really enjoyed the food and the beautiful grounds, but more than anything we enjoyed learning so much about the local culture, dance, history and people of the Cook Islands. I highly recommend it.

Dancers were so fun at Highland Paradise

Local Outdoor Markets

Muri Beach Night Market -The Muri night markets in the Muri Beach Village are a great way to curate your own dinner from the various food trucks, stalls and stands all while mixing and mingling with tourists and locals alike. Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings from 5pm, the night markets offer a variety of food from local BBQ meals, seafood, fresh drinking coconuts, chicken curries, wok-fried noodles, pizza, desserts and more.

Muri Beach Night Food Market Three nights a week

Punanga Nui Market – The Punanga Nui Market in Avarua, Rarotonga’s main town, offers free entertainment, fresh food stalls, organic coffee, and authentic souvenirs like pearls, artwork, crafts and hats made of coconut frond. While the market is open until midday, early Saturday morning is the best time to go for locally grown fruits and vegetables as well as homemade treats like poke. Also, make sure to head over to the main stage from about 10am to enjoy live music and dancing.

Learn History

Te Ara Cook Islands Cultural Museum was a great activity on a rainy day. We really enjoyed learning some of the cultural history of the island both from before European’s arrived and everything since. I highly recommend spending an our or so here, and you can’t beat the $5NZ price. A nice little cafe too.

Where to Eat

Even though our darling bungalow at Palm Grove had a kitchen, and the Palm Grove is conveniently located near one of the larger grocery stores (Wigmores), we decided not to cook our dinners since we were on the island for only a week. Instead we found our way to several popular local eateries including;

The Yellow Hibiscus – Part of the Palm Grove Resort, we ate here three separate nights. On Sunday nights they offer their weekly BBQ for $45NZ. It was an outstanding value. The other dinners we had were delicious, with huge servings and good prices. Friday night is Happy Hour night.

The Tamarind House Restaurant and Ukelele Bar – we took the bus to Avarua just to see the town, which frankly doesn’t have a lot to offer, but we walked around, had a beer at Trader Jack’s, and then headed on to dinner at The Tamarind House. Absolutely beautiful view and we enjoyed our dinner of Ika Mata and Nicoise Salad with fresh Ahi.

Viama a short walk from Palm Grove we enjoyed a lovely dinner on Valentines Day here. With our toes in the sand we enjoyed fresh Ika Mata (also known as Poisson Cru), Fish, Steak and a great Sticky Toffee Pudding for Desert.

Charlies Bar and Grill – we heard great things about this beach side bar and chose to have lunch here on our final day on the island. Lunch starts at noon, but if you come for dinner call ahead for a reservation. The view is great, portions are huge and the food delicious. Order at the window and they bring the food to you.

Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands

Come to the Cook Islands to escape the winter weather back home. We met so many Canadians and Europeans in search of sun. Come to the Cook Islands to relax and find a peaceful paradise to read, relax, and swim with a few exhilarating possibilities thrown in. Come to the Cook Islands for amazing seafood, fresh produce and fruit – all served up with a smile. And come to the Cook Islands for Kia Orana – the blessing of the beautiful people and the fascinating culture they hold dear. For all of these reasons and more – come to the Cook Islands. We will be back.

Learn more at Cook Islands.

Thank you for reading my post Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands. See last week’s post Maui Best Restaurants 2025 and be sure not to miss our year end travel awards – Eighth Annual Travel Awards 2024.

Next stop Australia!

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Maui Best Restaurants 2025

Updated For 2025

February 14, 2025

Laureen

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Location: Maui Hawaii USA

I’ve been to Maui more times than I can count and it is one of my favorite places in the world. But like everything else affected by the PanDamit, Maui lost some restaurants (including one of my favs) while others struggle to keep their doors open. Even worse, the Lahaina fires 18 months ago devastated that historic city and all it’s restaurants in the old town area. And yet still, this island is home to some amazing dining from take-out to romantic and every cuisine you can want. I have not eaten at EVERY Maui restaurant, but I feel qualified to recommend quite a few. So here they are – Maui Best Restaurants 2025 by My Fab Fifties Life.

In No Particular Order

The Sea House – Napili – Beautiful view ocean side at the iconic Napili Kai Resort. Fresh fish and always delicious. One of my top restaurants on the island. Reservations a must.

A ‘a Roots – Napili – Vegan tiny restaurant in Napili Plaza, farm to table, locally sourced and so delicious.

Star Noodle – Lahaina – One of my top favorite restaurant in Maui. Always perfect, outdoor ocean side dining in an updated location since the fires. Creative menu and excellent service. Reservations recommended.

Mala Ocean Tavern – Lahaina – Great seafood, clever cocktails, ocean side dining. Reservations recommended.

The Fish Market – Kaanapali – purchase fresh fish and poke here to take home or order up fresh prepared fish tacos, mahi mahi and so much more. Delicious and worth the wait. Take out.

Monkey Pod Kitchen – Kaanapali and Wailea – by the owners of Merriman’s (see below) a more casual restaurant for salads, burgers, fish and a great Mai Tai.

The Pint & Cork – Wailea – not your usual Maui vibe, this gastropub is a great place if you want a burger and a beer. Great service and reasonable prices.

Moose McGillicuddy’s – Kihei. Sports Bar upstairs with great burgers, fish and chips, salads and more. Also downstairs (same kitchen) is Fred’s Mexican open for breakfast too.

Some Casual Options

Paia Fish Market – Paia, Kihei – choose your fish and how you want it prepared. Always fresh but expect a wait.

Sugar Beach Bake Shop – Kihei – come for the malasadas. Hands down the best on the island. Other yummy stuff too.

Cafe O’Lei – Kihei and other locations – a wide variety of family and budget friendly fish, burgers salads and more.

Kihei Cafe – One of Kihei’s most popular breakfast spots now has two locations, expect a wait but not too long, they get people in and out. Try the banana pancakes, loco moco or eggs bene.

Coconut’s Fish Cafe – Kihei – Fish tacos, salads and more at a reasonable family friendly price. Choose your fish and your preparation preference. Always fresh.

Something For Everyone

Three’s Bar and Grill – Kihei – Casual and clever menu with both indoor and outdoor seating and a great Happy Hour menu. Try the brussel sprouts. I’m not kidding, they are amazing.

Maui Brewing – Kihei and Kaanapali- Pizza, fish tacos, burgers and a delicious kale salad…and of course beer.

Roasted Chiles Mexican – Kihei – Only Mexican restaurant I can recommend on Maui…delicious and authentic, locally owned and family run. If you need a taco fix while in Kihei this is the place.

Miso Phat – Kihei and Kaanapali – Delicious sushi and a great variety. Easy to order on line, pick up and enjoy at the beach.

Kula Lodge – Kula – recently purchased by long time Maui restaurateur Simon Vojdani and owners of the 5 Palms Restaurant formerly in Kihei. The 5 Palms is now be part of the beautiful property at the Kula Lodge. We enjoyed the Happy Hour…but dinner is also recommended… you can’t beat the view here!

Ohana Seafood Bar and Grill – Kihei – We went for the sushi but the day we went the Sushi Chef must have been off…bummer. But the menu has many other options from burgers to poke, tacos to calamari. The calamari was delicious..

Manioli Pizza – Wailea – This place has a small menu but a lovely view. Several pizza options and just a couple pasta options but all very good. I really liked my chicken piccata. Budget friendly and family friendly too.

Kohola Brewing – rising from the ashes, Kohola lost everything in the Lahaina fire and yet they are here and so good. Now brewing on the Big Island their new tasting room in Wailea includes a small but excellent food selection. We like it so much we visited twice.

Some of the BEST on the Island

Morimoto – Wailea – the most beautifully presented sushi I have ever had. And the ambiance is amazing at the stunning Andaz Resort in Wailea. For a special occasion or any day, just go. Great to watch the sunset too. We always come back for this one.

Ka’ana Kitchen – Wailea – We had an outstanding meal with a view at Ka’ana. Whatever you do don’t miss the watermelon salad. Everything else is good too. Also located at the Andaz.

Mama’s Fish House – Paia – Maui’s finest restaurant in food, ambiance and service. Incomparable. Reservations hard to get but give it a try. Time honored and authentic, Mama’s will always fall on my Maui Best Restaurants 2025 list.

Hali’imaile General Store – Upcountry -One of the islands best restaurants located in a historic building in upcountry, the menu is fresh but not pretentious…just delicious and local. This last trip we chose to dine here on our final night as a celebration of Maui Best Restaurants 2025.

Merriman’s – Kapalua One of the best meals I have had in years, the impeccable Merrimans is where we celebrated our wedding anniversary. Amazing Prix Fixe menu for $120 per person was worth every penny. Fantastic and special place when in Maui.

Unpretentious and Deliciouis

Sam Sato – Wailuku – few tourists come here, but locals know about this amazing noodle shop in Wailuku. I love the Dry Noodles and the Chow Fun. Great kimchee too.

The Pour House – Kapalua – no view but the ambiance is lovely and the food is divine. If you want a break from fish and Hawaiian food make a reservation at this phenomenal Italian bistro. Be sure to try the handmade fresh burrata.

Pita Paradise Wailea – A hidden gem in Wailea. This name though…it sounds like a fast food place. It is not. A lovely menu of Mediterranean dishes with daily specials. I loved my local Mong Chong grilled fish with fresh vegetables in an aioli sauce. My husband had delectable lamb gnocchi. Definitely come here. Make a reservation during peak season.

Saigon Cafe Wailuku – This hidden gem has been going strong since 1995…highly unusual in this day and age. But that says something about the food. We hadn’t been here in years, but made our way back up this last visit and I am so glad we did. Authentic and delicious SE Asia cuisine.

Take Out and Food Trucks Are Big Biz

There are many food trucks on the island, but I haven’t visited them all. But if you are interested in take out options check the YouTube video we did in 2020 Tasty Tuesday Maui Take Out Food. Our visit in January this year introduced us to a brand new food truck site South Maui Gardens. We really loved it and it’s beautifully hidden gem of a location. Check out their website to learn about live music, hula shows and much more at South Maui Gardens.

Feel free to share in the comments any other Maui restaurants you love. And I’ll take your recommendations and visit those restaurants when I return to Maui in the future. I still have several I need to visit so let me know your favorites!! Mahalo! Thank you for reading my post Maui Best Restaurants 2025.

See last week’s post Maui on a Budget and hope you didn’t miss our Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024. We are headed next to the Cook Islands – stay tuned for more about that next week!

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Maui On a Budget

February 7, 2025

Laureen

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Maui might be a once in a lifetime trip for you. If it is, you hopefully can afford to do some of the most amazing activities the island offers. But plan well in advance and be ready to spend a pretty penny. It is one of the most expensive destinations in the world. So here are some tips if you want to enjoy Maui on a Budget.

I have been lucky enough to visit Maui many times, and have enjoyed the Luaus, whale watching, snorkeling and some amazing first class meals.

But during our most recent visit, we made a big effort to lay-low and spend less. Sticking to our pre-designed budget is important in our travels, otherwise we can not continue to travel as we do. On our recent visit to Maui there were some new activities we considered, from cooking classes to glass blowing to chocolate tours. But, we chose to do Maui on a Budget. And you can too.

It won’t be easy, but there are ways to enjoy Maui on a Budget. And through the years I have discovered several things you can do to save money. Hopefully, some of these suggestions will give you a positive visit to this beautiful island paradise without breaking the bank. So here are our suggestions for Maui on a Budget.

When to Come

Choose to visit the island during the off-season and absolutely don’t come over the Christmas holidays. June-October is a great time to visit and the island is quieter and you will have a wide choice of accommodations.

Where to Stay

There are many, many condos available for rent and you will find it less expensive to stay in a condo than in a resort. By renting a condo rather than a hotel you can cook most of your meals and not blow your budget on eating out. Condos usually offer great pools and barbecue area for guest use.

Groceries

If you have a Costco membership use it. Although the Maui Costco can be very busy, you can really save money by shopping there. We did price comparison on cases of beer and it was astonishing. Gas at the Maui Costco is also much less.

We also found prices at Foodland and Times grocery stores were less than Safeway. I always bring a few things from home such as a small amount of spices, coffee, rice. If you have the room, try to bring things that are portable and you know you use regularly.

Rental Car

It’s pretty hard to visit Maui without a rental car. Unless you are only staying for a couple of days I highly recommend you get a car. But there are several rental agencies on the island renting older model cars for much less. We have used Kihei Rent a Car several times. The cars we have rented are Nissan, about ten years old, run great and get us where we need to be. About $34 a day this last visit as compared to $99 – $149 at the more well-known brand name rental agencies. There are some other budget friendly rental car agencies on the island too. Do your research.

Dining Out

Dining out in Maui is pretty expensive. That’s why we mostly cook in our condo. It is less expensive to visit some of the restaurants where the locals go…I recommend Sam Satos and Saigon Cafe. Another really great way to save money dining out while getting to enjoy some of Maui’s best restaurants is to go to Happy Hour. Many restaurants have a daily Happy Hour and you can get a reduced menu but the same great food for much less money. For instance, we enjoy Three’s Bar and Grill in Kihei for their happy hour food menu and their Mai Tai, normally $14 is 6.25 during Happy Hour. You can get a comprehensive list here Maui Happy Hours.

Consider eating at some of the local food truck villages that have popped up around the island over the past few years. Maui has tons of food truck options now including in Kihei, Kaanapali, Wailuku, Kahalui and more. One of my favorite new food truck little gem is South Maui Gardens. Read this for more for ideas.

Equipment

Before you spend $60 at Costco to buy a beach chair, double check with your condo to see if they have chairs available. Many condos have chairs, snorkel gear and even boogie boards available for their guests.

Keep your eyes out for locals selling used gear along the roadside.

Snorkeling

The beaches are free of course (did you know every beach in the state of Hawaii is a public beach) and many beaches are great for snorkeling. You don’t need to pay for an expensive tour to Molokini to see beautiful fish and coral. Check out this list here. Snorkel gear can be a carry on item if you pack it properly, saving you rental fees on the island. Check with your carrier for more information.

Whale Watching

Now you won’t get up close and personal, but from December – March you can whale watch right from the beach. There are 10,000 humpback whales that visit the waters between Maui, Lanai and Molokai every winter. With so many whales it’s not difficult to see them from the beach or from the look out point located on the Honoapi’ilani highway between Kihei and Lahaina.

Nature

Be sure to visit two nature preserves in South Maui that are free to visit. The Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge offers a walk through brackish area to view many of Maui’s most interesting birds. Access is from the Pi’ilani Highway ( also called the Maui Veterans Highway) and it is free.

Another part of this nature reserve is the Kealia Coastal Boardwalk, access this from the North Kihei Road. This is a great one for kids because it includes colorful and interesting interpretive signage and is an easy walk. Also free.

The ponds at Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge

Hiking

Hiking is free and there are some wonderful hikes on Maui. Check out our post Six Great Hikes on the Island of Maui. A Maui hike also affords you the opportunity to bird watch, whale watch and enjoy the local flora of this island. Some hikes also have historic and sacred sites – be culturally aware and respectful and learn about the heritage and history of the Hawaiian people. By the way, if you are a Senior and have an America the Beautiful National Park Pass be sure not to leave it at home. The pass will save you the $30 entry fee into Haleakala National Park.

Hula Shows

Luau’s are expensive, and when you are trying to do Maui on a Budget they are out of the question. But if you want to see a free hula show during your visit, there are several places that offer shows at different times depending on the time of year. Lahaina Cannery Mall, Maui Mall, Whaler’s Village, Four Seasons Resort Wailea and Kaanapali Beach Hotel all have shows sponsored by Hawaiian Airlines. See the schedule here.

If you are in South Maui, the Shops at Wailea do a wonderful free hula show with great live music every Tuesday from 5:30-6:30. This show is popular but there is a large area to sit on the ground or on a few chairs provided. Definitely worth it.

Another option is the Hula show held weekly at South Maui Gardens. This show costs $100 but it is full professional show with music. It does not include the luau food, just the show. It’s very popular and sells out in high-season so reserve ahead of time. Learn more at South Maui Gardens.

Golf

If you want to golf on Maui but can’t swallow the high prices, check out the Waiehu Municipal Course. Gorgeous views for a fraction of the cost.

Since we always stay in Kihei, we bring our clubs and golf 2-3 times a week at Maui Nui. If you plan to golf more than three times, it pays to buy the Maui Nui Players Program Card. Maui Nui has been extensive improvements over the past few years and we really enjoy it.

Other Cool Stuff

Visit Ho’okipa to watch the surfers….its absolutely remarkable and its free. While you are there you will probably also see turtles. This is the beach you can almost always be guaranteed to see turtles hauled up and sunning themselves on the beach. We have also seen the Hawaiian Monk Seal sleeping on the beach here. A rare treat. Remember…the seal and the turtles are protected…stay back and enjoy from a distance.

A lot of people try to go to Haleakala for sunrise. I admit it’s a cool thing to do, but reservations are now required. Sunset is easier and free and you can view it from much of the island. There are dozens of places to watch the sunset from Makenna to Kapalua, for free.

Give Back

Whether you are on a budget or not, consider giving back to the people of Maui. Many people suffered greatly during the recent Lahaina fires, and during Covid prior to that. Every time we visit Maui we make a cash donation to the Maui Food Bank. Thanks for considering it.

Maui on a Budget

Yes you can do Maui on a Budget with a little frugal planning. It’s worth it to enjoy this island paradise, even if you are watching your pennies. Maui No Ka Oi!

Thanks for reading Maui on a Budget. We love it when you pin, comment and share our blog posts. Mahalo.

See last week’s post Six Great Hikes on the Island of Maui and don’t miss our Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024 post.

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Island Life -- North America Travel

Six Great Hikes on the Island of Maui

January 31, 2025

Laureen

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Location: Maui Hawaii USA

We love to hike and when we are traveling we always set aside at least one day a week to hike and get out into nature. And during our recent visit to Maui we discovered another great hike to add to the many favorites we already have on this beautiful island. So today I thought I would share with you six great hikes on the island of Maui.

West Maui

The area known as West Maui is home to Lahaina, Kaanapali, Napili and Kapalua. We spent six weeks exploring this area recently. Here are two of our favorite hikes.

Kapalua Coastal Trail

This trail can be busy but it’s worth it because it is so beautiful and definitely one of the six great hikes on the island of Maui. Parking can be difficult but look for street parking near the Napili Kai Resort, or paid parking at Kapalua Golf Course. Start the hike right at Merriman’s Restaurant where the trail heads north. The trail then winds through spectacular lava flows where you can see crashing waves and nesting shearwaters birds nesting. Follow the trail along the road at the Kapalua Golf Course and out to the Dragons Teeth Labyrinth. Round trip about 4 miles. Learn more here.

The Village Course and Duck Pond

The Kapalua Golf Club closed one of their three courses in 2007. Today the cart paths of the defunct Village Course are a unique and somewhat eerie (and steep) walk through a golf ghost town. It’s astonishing actually how quickly nature has reclaimed this course, making the fairways essentially unrecognizable only eighteen years later. The walk is about four miles round trip at the top is Duck Pond, a nice stop to rest or picnic before returning down. Learn more here.

South Maui

South Maui is usually defined as Kihei, Wailea and Makena. We have spent a great deal of time in this part of the island and we love it.

La Perouse/Hoapili Trail

This is one of my favorites of the six great hikes on the island of Maui, but also a bit rough and difficult. Traversing over sharp lava beds, come prepared with the right shoes. It’s a hot and arid trail but provides some stunning views across to the Big Island of Hawaii. The trail is also a sacred trail for Hawaiians, once part of the King’s Highway that circled the island. Crossing the 300 year old lava field is a unique experience, if you are up for it I recommend it highly. Wear a hat and bring lots of water. Learn more here.

Central Maui

The region sometimes referred to as Central Maui is home to the airport in Kahului and the government seat city of Wailuku as well as malls, shopping and industrial areas.

Waihee Ridge

About a 7 mile drive north and west from Wailuku you find the parking area for the Waihee Ridge Trail. We have done this trail several times and had a wide variance in weather each time. Come prepared for rain, wind, fog or clear blue skies…you never know. Arrive early for parking. The trail goes up and up the green and beautiful ridge for about 2.5 miles and if you are lucky the views are phenomenal. Learn more here.

Haleakala

The astonishing volcano Haleakala rises 10,000 feet (3048 meters) out of the island and can be seen from almost anywhere on the island. If you go to do either of these suggested hikes get an early start. Often the volcano is clear in the morning but clouds roll in later in the day. BE PREPARED, Haleakala can be very cold in the morning…cold enough to warrant a stocking cap and warm coat.

Sliding Sands

This is one of my favorite hikes on the island. Starting at the top of the volcano at the Visitor Information Center, Sliding Sands, as it’s name implies, is a red sandy trail that goes down inside the volcano crater. Don’t do more than you are capable of on this eleven mile round trip trail, because you need to come back up! Along this trail you will feel like you are on the moon. It’s beautiful, and you will also see the rare and endangered Silver Sword plant known only to grow in this volcano and the two volcanoes on the Big Island. Learn more here.

Halemau’u Trail

Approximately 14.2 miles up Highway 378 but before you reach the summit, you will see the Halemau’u Trail parking on the left side of the road. This trail often starts in the mist and clouds, but don’t despair. As you walk the ridge and then go down the rock face trail into the crater the weather usually warms and clears. There is a picnic area that is a good turn around point. Or you can hike all the way through to Sliding Sands and back up to the Visitor Center. But you will need to either have two cars or someone to bring you back to the Halemau’u parking area. Learn more here.

Maui Hikes

These are just a few of the many hikes available on the beautiful island of Maui. No matter your hiking skill level you can find a walk or hike on this island. If you are looking for additions to the six great hikes on the island of Maui check this out.

See last week’s BIG post – our annual travel awards post for 2024. Click to read what we loved best Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024.

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Europe Travel -- Island Life

Dear Chania and Western Crete

Island Life on Greek’s Crete Island

April 19, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Chania Crete Greece

Dear Chania and Western Crete. What a lovely surprise you have been during our three week visit. I want to apologize for arriving with low expectations. You were so much more than I could have dreamed of. I also want to apologize for all the islands that have come before you…I just didn’t know how wonderful you were. You ticked all the boxes and I know I will be back. Dear Chania and Western Crete, how do I love thee? Well let me count the ways;

1. Crete

Olive tree outside of Chania estimated to be 3500-5000 years old

Crete, the largest Greek island, known for its rich history, stunning landscapes, and vibrant culture, was infatuating. The home to ancient ruins and significant Minoan archaeological sites as well as beautiful beaches, crystal-clear waters, and picturesque villages nestled in the mountains. Your cuisine is a highlight, featuring fresh seafood, olive oil, and local herbs. The people of Crete are known for their hospitality and traditional music and dance and are so welcoming.

Rethymnos Fort offers spectacular views of the White Mountains and the Mediterranean

2. Chania

Chania (pronounced Han-ya) was a perfect choice for our three week stay. We had two couples joining us from the states for the first week of our stay, so we booked an amazing four bedroom historic stone home about 15 min from the center of Chania. Now we are already discussing staying in this Airbnb again. We rented a car on arrival to be able to thoroughly explore all you have to offer, having a car is recommended. Chania has an airport, and so does Heraklion and you can also arrive on the island via ferry from Athens or other Greek islands.

Even in the cool spring the pool was beautiful

Chania is a charming coastal town, known for its picturesque Venetian harbor, narrow streets, and historic architecture. The town has a rich history, with influences from the Venetians, Ottomans, and Egyptians. Chania offers a mix of cultural attractions, vibrant markets, and beautiful beaches, making it a one of the things we really fell in love with.

Old Town Chania after dark with a full moon

Things We Enjoyed in Chania

On our first day we hired Roussos from Alma de Crete to show us the beautiful city on foot. Our four hour tour also included so much food tastes – we needed no other meals that day. We learned from Roussos the fascinating history, cultural insights and local cuisine. Thank you Roussos, your tour helped us start our love affair with Crete.

Fabulous local seafood at the market, Chania

We also did something else special in Chania, we learned to make beautiful mosaic art from famous local artists. I highly recommend this activity when in Chania – perfect for groups, families, kids or just couples like us. Look what we made! Not only did we make a great souvenir we met lovely local people. Learn more about it here, Marinella Mosaic Workshop.

3. History

Dear Chania and Western Crete, your history is fascinating and beautiful. We loved the Venetian feel of Chania and Rethymnos, the historic stone farm houses scattered through out the countryside and mountains, the ancient amphitheater in the hills above Rethymnos. We marveled at your culturally rich monasteries, fortresses and ports.

Historic chapel in the middle of nowhere

Crete, your rich history dating back to the Minoan civilization makes you one of the earliest advanced societies in Europe. Who knew? The island has been influenced by various civilizations, including the Mycenaeans, Romans, and Byzantines. You played a significant role in Greek mythology and was a strategic location in ancient times.

Dating to 1537 Gouveneto Monastery is one of the oldest in Greece. A definite place to visit.

4. Hiking

Chania and Western Crete offered excellent hiking opportunities for this outdoor enthusiast. The region features diverse landscapes, including mountains, gorges, and coastal trails. One of the most popular hikes is the Samaria Gorge, a stunning natural wonder that attracts hikers from around the world. We explored the White Mountains, hiked to ancient ruins, and enjoyed panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea along the way.

Goats joined us for a hike in the White Mountains

A beautiful day to hike at the Gouverneto Monastery high about the sea

5. Beaches

Even during the spring, the Mediterranean beaches of Crete are beautiful. We marveled at the turquoise water of the beaches on the coast between Rethymno and Chania. We hiked the rocky cliffs along the beaches of Falassarna. And we swam in the blue ocean and walked on the golden sands of Elafonisi. Come summer we understand your beaches are packed with guests, but our love affair with Crete began with deserted beaches, and crystal clear water.

Elafonisi known for the pink sand, though it’s not as pink as it once was

6. Oh the Food

Cretan cuisine is a highlight of this island, featuring fresh and flavorful dishes made with local ingredients. Thank you Crete for the olive oil, herbs, and seafood – staples in Cretan cooking. Traditional dishes like dakos (barley rusk salad), lamb with stamnagathi (wild greens), and kalitsounia (sweet cheese pastries) were delicious, reflecting your rich agricultural heritage and Mediterranean flavors. Oh and the wine. Wow.

Outdoor oven at Veerna’s Kitchen Cooking School

Dear Chania and Western Crete we could not get enough of your delicious, fresh and local food. We learned to cook six local dishes with Veerna at Veerna’s Kitchen Cooking School in Chania, one of the highlights of our visit to Crete. Veerna and her family have created an amazing place to gather, learn and enjoy. We highly recommend every visitor to Chania spend time with Veerna learning about Crete cuisine.

Amazing stuffed vegetables at Veerna’s Kitchen Cooking School

Boureki is one of Chania’s regional dishes, very much like Potatoes Au Gratin

Delicious Dining

During our island visit we ate at some remarkable restaurants that I must mention here, creating more memories of our time in Western Crete. We highly recommend all of these;

Carte Postale when visiting the historic monasteries outside of Chania, Carte Postale is a perfect destination for lunch or dinner. With a beautiful view of Chania, the food was remarkable and so was the service.

Feta and Wild Greens Salad, Carte Postale

Raki Ba Raki we stumbled upon this place while visiting Rethynomo and what a treat it was. Great food and ambiance too.

Ntounias Slow Food – farm to table slow food cooked without electricity over wood stoves specializing in Chania regional cuisine. Don’t miss this. We almost missed it because I could never reach them on their website, but eventually called and got someone. Although when we showed up for our reservations I didn’t really think we needed it. They also have vineyard and farm educational tours. We dined on bouriki (see above), roasted goat, eggplant salad, fava beans and their own wine. Service was amazing!

Tamam our guide Roussos recommended this restaurant for authentic food and we went as a group of six and had a spectacular meal. Located in an ancient building in the Venetian area of Chania, it was a perfect mix of delicious, historic and great service too.

And Seafood

Salis, right on the beautiful harbor in Old Town Chania, we loved the view, the food and the service was excellent as well. Great wine list too.

Argentina Kapenekis about 30 min from Chania is the lovely beach town of Kissamos. We enjoyed a late lunch with waterside view and a wide selection of fresh caught fish and lovely preparations. If you like seafood this is the place for you.

Dear Chania and Western Crete

We hope you will welcome us back again with such open arms as you have during our March visit. Thank you for your kind people, and rich and full list of things to keep us busy…but also for quiet days, with filtered sunshine and the sweet smell of lemon blossoms.

How do I love thee? So many ways. I will return. Efcharistó Crete!

Thank you for reading my blog post Dear Chania and Western Crete. We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts. Thank you.

Next week I will tell you about our visit to the ancient Knossos Palace in Heraklion Crete. Be sure to come back to read about that.

This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Chania

See last week’s post Athens for First Timers – A Beautiful City.

Also you might like our post My Favorite Greek Food here and The Cyprus Test Kitchen here

See our post Island Hopping From Antiparos here

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Island Life

Book Review Lincoln on the Verge by Ted Widmer

April 3, 2024

Laureen

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Dramatic and riveting, I enjoyed this masterful work about Abraham Lincoln and how it almost didn’t happen. Here is my book review Lincoln on the Verge by Ted Widmer.

Thirteen Days

In our fast paced world today it’s hard to wrap your mind around the fact it took President Elect Abraham Lincoln thirteen days to travel from Illinois to Washington DC. Widmer uses extensive research, first hand accounts, letters and telegrams to create this theatrical but factual story.

A Country in Crisis

As Lincoln slowly makes his way to his inauguration, the country is divided and in crisis. Multiple attempts to assassinate Lincoln are in the works. As well as multiple plans to keep Lincoln from ever being inaugurated. Eerily familiar to our recent political chaos, the United States is on the verge of collapse, anarchy and civil war as Southern states have vowed to keep Lincoln from ever taking office.

A Man in the Making

During the 13 day passage, Lincoln’s loyal supporters will create an incredibly well planned journey to protect him at all costs. All while Lincoln himself discovers his own strength through his eloquent voice, as he triumphs in his desire to be the man who is like the people who voted for him.

On the Verge

This journey, perilous and fraught, puts Lincoln on the Verge of greatness. It’s unthinkable what the United States would look like, if Lincoln had not indeed survived and become the greatest of our Presidents in the USA.

I highly recommend this fascinating book. I learned so much about our country, our history, this President and a fascinating collection of characters who we never hear of, but who saved Lincoln on the Verge.

Thanks for reading my Book Review Lincoln on the Verge by Ted Widmer. See last week’s book review The Council of Dolls.

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Asia & Oceania Travel -- Island Life

Hobart, Tasmania – The Most Surprising Town in Australia

January 5, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia

Tasmania. Where is it? I don’t think most people even know. Not that long ago I wouldn’t have known either. But today I can say it is one of the most amazing places I have ever been. And Hobart, the capital city of Tasmania, is definitely worth a visit. Let me tell you why I say Hobart, Tasmania – The Most Surprising Town in Australia.

Looking down at Hobart from the top of Mount Wellington at 4400 feet

Hobart, Tasmania

Tasmania is Australia’s southernmost state. It’s an island too, about half the size of the state of Washington, an hour flight from Melbourne. Hobart is the capital city of Tasmania and is home to 198,000 people. The city of Hobart sits at latitude 43 south – which is equivalent to Milwaukee Wisconsin or Marseille France north. During our visit we rented a wonderful Airbnb in Hobart for an entire month over the Christmas holidays. Even though December is the beginning of summer in Australia, it never gets too hot in Hobart due to the southern exposure, and we had a little bit of everything in the weather department. It’s a perfect size city for getting around, and we had time to do so many wonderful things: from museums to hiking and more – Hobart, Tasmania – The Most Surprising Town in Australia.

Hobart, Tasmania – The Most Surprising Town in Australia, has a colonial and penal colony history but natives were here much earlier. Wikipedia says “The first European settlement in the Hobart area began in 1803 as a penal colony and defensive outpost. In 1804 it was moved to a better location at the present site of Hobart at Sullivans Cove, making it the second oldest city in Australia. Prior to British settlement, the area had been occupied for at least 8,000 years, but possibly for as long as 35,000 years, by the semi-nomadic Mouheneener tribe, a sub-group of the Nuenonne, or South-East tribe. The descendants of the indigenous Tasmanians now refer to themselves as ‘Palawa‘.”

Things to do in Hobart Tasmania

In this post I will share with you all the great things we discovered to do in the city of Hobart, or less than an hour from the city. Next week’s Friday blog post, I will expand more on all the incredible attractions more than hour outside of the city. But if you are only visiting Hobart, there is so very much to do without leaving the city Let’s talk about it.

History

Battery Point – one of Hobart’s oldest and best preserved neighborhoods just south of the CBD. Founded in 1818, Battery Point (so named from the cannons once positioned there) is perfect for a self-guided walking tour when visiting Hobart.

Hobart Wharf and Constitution Dock – a beautiful part of the city, this historic waterfront area is home to the fishing fleet as well as yachts and personal sailboats. Many tours leave from here and there are casual eateries and fine dining options. The cruise terminal is close by.

Mawson’s Museum, replica of early Antarctica cabins

Cascades Female Factory Historic Site – not to be missed former site for female convicts who were transported from Britain beginning in the early 1800’s. This is a great place to begin learning about this bleak time in Australia’s history prior to visiting Port Author about an hour and a half from Hobart (more on that next week). Don’t miss this fascinating, sad but also intriguing UNESCO World Heritage Sight in Hobart.

Museums

MONA Museum of Old and New – Difficult to describe; weird, curious, eccentric. Definitely thought-provoking. I struggle to understand modern art…so some of it went over my capacity. The architecture however was fascinating. Even if you go away scratching your head, it still is worth a visit when in Hobart for its state-of-the-art concept. I also recommend arriving by ferry on the Derwent River from Hobart Harbor.

Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery – Wow. This museum was a real surprise right from the start when we realized it was free. Housed in a historic building near the original docks, TMAG is home to a wide range of exhibits from art to history and nature. I was particularly impressed with the aboriginal exhibits which I thought presented that story very well…despite how disturbing it can be. A very similar tale to the plight of the Native American.

Wildlife

Glow Tour with Lisa Ann – staying up past dark was worth it to do this unique tour. We walked through a city park and were astonished at the wildlife there. Using UV lights which don’t disturb the animals, we explored trees and found possums, endangered bandicoots, wallabies and pademelon. The platypus were elusive but regularly are seen after dark. A fun evening.

Parks & Gardens

Mount Wellington, now called kunanyi in respect to the original local people of the region – It’s a very easy drive to the top of kunanyi- Mount Wellington, about 40 minutes from Hobart. Certainly the top was chilly but worth it for the amazing views…incredible from 4400 feet.

Afterward we went back down to about 3500 feet where it was a bit warmer and did a lovely hike below the iconic Organ Pipes rock formation, and had a picnic and enjoyed so much bird life. This park is a must when in Hobart.

Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens inside Queen’s Domain Park – we spent Christmas Day walking around this beautiful botanic garden – one of many we enjoyed in Australia. The well tended and diverse 17 hectare space is housed within the more wild Queen’s Domain Park. Consecutively , worth a stroll when in Hobart. Free too!

A Beautiful day at Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens

Intercity Cycleway – used for commuting and recreation both, this wonderful paved trail runs along the old railroad tracks from Hobart all the way to Claremont. About 16 miles and we used it regularly for our morning runs.

View of the Derwent River from the Intercity Cycleway

Markets

Salamanca Market – held every Saturday 8:30-3:00 through out the year, this huge outdoor market offers a wide variety of food, produce, gifts, clothing, arts and crafts. On Salamanca Street right near the wharf. The area is also home to wonderful shops, restaurants and historic sights.

Sunday Farm Gate – my favorite for locally grown and produced, this market is held every Sunday in the summer. Home to fresh bread, produce, cheese, honey and even gin and whiskey all locally made.

Hobart Twilight Market – Happening twice a month in the summer and once a month in the winter, the Hobart Twilight Market takes place near the waterfront and Franklin Pier. Albeit you’ll find lots of yummy options for dining as well as distillery options, crafts, honey and more. Live music. Dates vary so check the website.

Food and Restaurants

Because we had such a great kitchen in our Airbnb, and because we work hard to stay on budget, we actually did not eat out very often during our month in Hobart. But we did enjoy the following;

Street Eats – during Australia’s summer months (December – February) every Friday night at Franklin Square you’ll find Street Eats. This Friday night food truck festival is a great gathering place complete with music.

Breakfast -looking for a tasty breakfast in Hobart CBD? Look no further than Criterion. A unique and tasty menu and excellent coffee with great service and a good price.

Lunch – Cultura Espresso and Bistro is a perfect place for a quick late breakfast or lunch. Italian specialties with excellent coffee and wine too. Try the Chicken Panzanella Salad.

Dinner – We enjoyed dinner out at a handful of restaurants and can recommend all of these;

Da Angelo Italian – this highly rated restaurant in Battery Point serves spectacular food with wonderful service too. I had veal bianco and my husband had lasagna (his favorite) and we both were really happy. Da Angelo has a great local wine list, perfect with our meal.

Pearl & Co. – casual seafood eatery connected to the fish market and located right next to where the fresh fish comes in, a really delicious selection of seafood. Oyster, calamari, blue-eye trevally and scallop pie all were perfect.

Delicious and authentic Italian at Da Angelo

Room For A Pony – it’s a funny name but a very popular spot for both indoor and outdoor dining and perfect for groups in North Hobart. We enjoyed a delicious salad and pizza. Simple and family friendly.

Poncho Villa – we read such good reviews about this Mexican restaurant we had to try it. Consequently, Poncho Villa is so popular it even requires a reservation. The Mexican food was authentic and delicious, while being creative too. I’m glad we went!

Landscape Restaurant and Grill – fine dining at it’s best. This beautiful restaurant on historic Hunter Street was a perfect way to end our month in Hobart. Beautiful steak, fish, wine and service…everything you need for a perfect celebration or night out.

Beer

Cascade Brewery Tour – it’s not free but it’s really interesting to tour the oldest brewery in Australia. Fascinating building and history and your ticket includes a lovely tasting at the end. Tickets $35 Aussie (about $20 US)

Cascade Brewery, Australia’s oldest brewery

While in Hobart, we made a point to visit several local microbreweries. I can recommend all of them if you are a beer lover like we are. Definitely check out T-Bone, Shambles, Deep South, Captain Bligh, Hobart Brewery and Overland.

Entertainment

Theatre Royale – this beautiful historic theatre, built in 1837, has events through out the year. While we were in Hobart we enjoyed a fun and festive annual Christmas show. Check out offerings when you visit.

Saint David’s Anglican Cathedral – this beautiful and historic church hosts many events throughout the year open to the public and during our stay in Hobart we attended a free (donations welcome) holiday musical event that was truly spectacular. We loved being there with all the locals enjoying the music of the holidays in a venue where the acoustics were heavenly.

Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens – in the summer the Theatre Royal presents shows outdoors at the Botanical Gardens. We enjoyed a fun production of Pinocchio the week after News Years.

Richmond

Richmond is a tiny colonial town about 30 min drive from Hobart and definitely worth a visit. Luckily we went in the morning, before the tour busses arrived, and enjoyed a delicious breakfast at Czeg Cafe. Secondly we followed a self guided walk around the village following the city’s online guide.

During our walk we visited the well preserved and interesting Richmond Gaol as well as the convict-built stone bridge – built in 1823 and still in use. Richmond has some fun shops and many other restaurants as well. In the region around Richmond you will find multiple wineries. We visited Nocton Winery and enjoyed a tasting – taking two bottles home for our holiday celebrations.

Festivals

For such a small town Hobart is home to large variety of events and festivals throughout the year. See the full list here. While we were visiting, one of the biggest events of the the year, Taste of Summer , took place the week after Christmas and first week of January on the waterfront in Salamanca. The party on New Year’s Eve was a great fit for us. Certainly the event has so much food, beverages, excellent music – and on NYE front row seats to the 9:30pm fireworks (family and old people friendly) and the midnight fireworks as well!

See More Tasmania

Although I spent a month in Hobart, you could explore the city easily in three or four days. Therefore giving you time to see so much of the island of Tasmania, if you don’t have a full month like we did.

However, next week I’ll tell you about our adventures around the island of Tasmania…some day trips from Hobart (more than an hour) including Bruny Island and Port Arthur. Additionally we also did some overnight trips including Freycinet National Park and Cradle Mountain. I hope you will come back to learn all about that next week. Tasmania is an astonishing place. I think I’m in love. Meanwhile, thanks for reading my post Hobart, Tasmania – The Most Surprising Town in Australia.

Do you want more posts about Australia? Click on these Visit Beautiful Brisbane, Visit Marvelous Melbourne, Caravan Travel Australia Part One, and Part Two.

This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Hobart.

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Asia & Oceania Travel -- Island Life

Our Favorite Things to do in Panglao/Bohol, Philippines

November 3, 2023

Laureen

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Location: Panglao/Bohol, Philippines

We spent an entire month relaxing on the island of Panglao in the Philippines, a tiny island connected to the larger island of Bohol by a bridge. We came with few expectations. In fact, after a three week whirlwind of Papua New Guinea and Hong Kong, we were looking for some peace and quiet. We certainly found it, and a whole lot more. Panglao/Bohol is one of the most underrated destinations we have found. We loved it and will be back. Here are some of our favorite things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines.

Keeping it Simple

We originally thought we would rent a car for a couple of days to see some sights. But our wonderful Airbnb host suggested we not. He explained how crazy the drivers were, and we had to agree after just a few days of walking around. So instead we hired a private driver on two occasions to spend the day seeing sights. We also went by Tuk Tuk or Tri-Cab to a couple other sites and beaches close to our bungalow. The hired driver was safe and economical. Our host helped us secure a driver rather than going with a tour. Total cost of an entire day for two people was less for a private tour with driver than it would have been for us to go on a group tour on a bus. And we could pick and choose the sights we wanted to see.

Since we were in Panglao/Bohol for four weeks, we had lots of time to enjoy the sites as well as time to just do nothing. We like to do both! I understand most people probably won’t have a whole month, so I’m listing the things we did and how we liked them and you can pick and chose what works for you.

Weather

We spent the month of October, and every day was hot and humid. During the month we saw a couple of cloudy days and a couple of torrential downpours with thunder. Weather changes quickly so be prepared all the time. October is considered the end of the rainy season, with the dry season being December to May, however the high temperature does not fluctuate much throughout the year. It was 87 degrees Fahrenheit pretty much every single day.

So let me tell you our favorite things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines;

Wildlife

Our hands-down favorite was visiting the Philippine Tarsier Foundation Sanctuary in Corella on the island of Bohol. If you only do one thing here it must be this. There are other places to see tarsiers on this island but the Philippine Tarsier Foundation is the one that is working to protect, save and conserve these beautiful creatures in their natural habitat for all to enjoy for generations to come.

Our visit included an informative video and then a guided tour into the forest to see up close and personal four Tarsiers who had bedded down for the day. Tarsiers are nocturnal, and because they feel safe, they return to the sanctuary each morning and spend the day. I was smitten by these darling, tiny and highly endangered little beauties. PLEASE don’t visit places that put Tarsiers in cages. These beautiful creatures only survive a very short time if in a cage. Visit the Philippine Tarsier Foundation.

Our second favorite was snorkeling the Napaling Reef with Freedive Academy Panglao. This reef is off the Northwest side of Panglao. This snorkel tour does not involve a boat, instead you are swimming right off shore in a beautiful protected reef. The highlight of this is to swim with millions of sardines…I am not kidding MILLIONS! There’s also many other tropical fish, and amazing coral. It was very cool, the water is clear and clean and our guide took so many great photos and videos for us to take home. Cost was only $20 per person. A must do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines!

Napaling Reef, Panglao

PLEASE NOTE – we chose not to swim with the Whale Sharks because we did not feel this activity was eco-friendly or sustainable for the health and welfare of the whales. We discourage you from doing this activity.

Waterfalls

We made our way to two waterfalls, both on Bohol. The first one is not far from the Chocolate Hills, but is down a long dirt road. Because the road to Pangas Falls is rough, not as many people visit. Our driver managed it and we were thrilled to arrive and find we were the only ones there. The set of small falls create a beautiful pool to swim in. Ropes are provided to pull yourself through what is a pretty strong current. It was a lot of fun and I am so glad we got to do this all by ourselves. Turned out to be one of our favorite things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines.

The second falls we went to was much taller. Can Umantad Falls is located a lot farther away from Panglao and it took us about two and a half hours to get there. We did not swim here although we could have and there were lots of visitors enjoying swimming. To get to the falls you have to pay a guy on a motor scooter to take you down the steep hill to the entrance of the falls. I wasn’t expecting that so I had to psych up to get on the back of that scooter. But it was very pretty and I’m glad we visited.

Caves

We visited two caves, one on Panglao close to our Airbnb and one on Bohol, more than two hours drive away. We loved the one on Panglao, but didn’t really love the second one.

On Panglao only about 15 min drive from where we were staying is Hinagdanan Cave. Entrance fee was under $2 and you walk down some dark stairs and then suddenly you are deep in the earth with the most crystal clear beautiful pool of freshwater. Life jackets are available if you need a boost of confidence, but we enjoyed a swim in the cool refreshing pool with the filtered sunlight coming through the top of the cave and the tiny bats flitting around. A definite must visit.

On Bohol, and about two hours from Alona Beach is the Cabagnow Cave Pool. This cave is deep but with a complete open top. You have to go down a steep ladder to enter. We were there right after a big rainstorm and the water was not very pleasant looking. I’ve seen photos where it is not so brown, but the day we visited it wasn’t very appealing. Also the care of the surrounding area is very poor, very muddy and rocky with no facilities, so we really thought we could have left this off our itinerary altogether. Disappointing. We only paid about $1 each so no great loss!

Popular Tourist Sights

There are several other miscellaneous sights scattered about with numerous options for getting to these sights. We did not do all the sights, some of them seeming a bit tacky to us, but here is what we did do;

Cadapdapan Rice Terraces – these beautiful terraced rice fields stretch golden across the landscape on the hill above the Can-Umantad Falls. When we visited rice was in harvest and along the stretch of road throughout the region rice is laid out to dry. Very pretty and worth a stop if you are in the region, easily combined with a visit to the falls. There is also a restaurant here.

Chocolate Hills – these geological formations are fascinating. And although the vantage to view them is very touristy, we are glad we went to learn. Wikipedia says – The Chocolate Hills form a rolling terrain of haycock-shaped hills—mounds of a generally conical and almost symmetrical shape.^[5] Estimated to be from 1,268 to about 1,776 individual mounds, these cone-shaped or dome-shaped hills are actually made of grass-covered limestone. The domes vary in size from 30 to 50 metres (98 to 164 ft) high with the largest being 120 metres (390 ft) in height. One of Bohol’s best known tourist attractions.

Definitely worth a stop on Bohol.

A Few More Sites

Tigbao Bamboo Hanging Bridges – I had seen some photos of these twin bridges that hang over the Sipitan River and I wanted to check it out. So we did. To cross the bridge you pay less than $1, and the view is very pretty. Although the bridges sway, I felt completely safe.

Baclayon Church – historic and beautiful old Catholic Church built in 1727 of local limestone coral blocks, this is a favorite stop on most local tours. There is a museum, but we did not go inside, we just admired the exterior.

Beaches

We visited several tourist beaches during our stay and there are many more we did not visit. The most beautiful beach we thought was Dumaluan. There are many resorts on this stretch of white sand but we visited through a small private park and paid 100 pesos (about $2) for access to the beach for a day. Alona Beach, which was the closest one to our Airbnb, is also the most crowded and home to lots of resorts and departure point for dive boats. The Alona area of Panglao is definitely the tourist base, but it’s also pretty and a nice place to swim.

Dumaluan Beach a beautiful long stretch of white sand

Alona Beach is home to the tourism base on Panglao

Doljo Beach is also nice, but very shallow. Much of the island is surrounded by coral reef and you can walk hundreds of yards in shallow water. Doljo was like this but also beautiful. We spent a couple of hours on Momo Beach, where lots of locals and no tourists were enjoying the white sand. It was very swimable but a bit remote to get to.

Resort Day Use Pass

We discovered how inexpensive it is to visit local resorts on a day use pass and we took advantage on three occasions. All three were amazing and we definitely recommend this if you are staying in a place like our Airbnb that, although it has a pool, is not located near the beach. All passes included food and drink. We recommend the following;

Close to our Airbnb in Dinao

BE Grand Resort – This beautiful resort was about a mile from our Airbnb. There was a gorgeous pool, a lovely manmade sandy beach with stairs down to the ocean. We had one of the best meals we had all month in their restaurant. We paid 1200 pesos (about $22 USD) and that included $15 towards food and drinks. I really appreciated the beautiful and large locker room with showers.

Nightly rate at the beautiful BE Grand mid November starts about $140. This beautiful hotel would easily cost $600 a night in Maui.

Two on Doljo Beach an Easy Tuk Tuk Ride

Modala Resort – We really loved this beautiful beach resort as well. The pool was busy but very nice. A very shallow but long white beach fronts the property. Our lunch here was delicious and the service was great. We paid 950 pesos (about $18 USD) and that included $12 for food and drinks.

Nightly rate for mid November at Modala is around $253 per night.

The Bellevue Resort – not far from Modala Resort is The Bellevue Resort. We liked the pool here but the beach is very shallow. We had a nice relaxing day. Cost was 950 pesos (about $18) with 600 pesos for consumables. Restaurant was more expensive than the other two resorts but the food and service were excellent.

Nightly rate mid November at The Bellevue Resort is around $135 per night.

Clearly if you want the full resort experience but you are on a budget…Panglao is the place to go.

Morning Bloody Mary beach side at The Bellevue Resort

Authentic and delicious lunch at The Bellevue.

Restaurants

We used the tiny kitchen in our Airbnb most days as we usually do to stay on budget. However we did eat out a few times during our month on the island. Here are our favorites;

A Little More Upscale

The Pearl – located in the Linaw Beach Resort walking distance from our Airbnb. Our host recommended we visit and also made a reservation for us so we could sit with our toes in the sand at sunset. The service and view were impeccable. We had a full meal with several drinks and it was only $30. A lovely evening.

BE Grand Resort, The Food Hall – while visiting on a Day Pass to the BE Grand Resort we had what was possibly the best meal during our month. The service was amazing, and the food was on point, beautifully presented and absolutely delicious and authentic.

Our favorite meal in the Philippines at BE Grand

Gerardas Family Restaurant – our Airbnb host recommended this very authentically Filipino family restaurant and we are so glad he did. It was very inexpensive, (huge meal with drinks and desert $25) the service was great and we were able to try several delicious Filipino favorites. Several locations throughout the Bohol area. We enjoyed this place so much we went again on our final night on Panglao.

Halo Halo is a favorite local dessert of evaporated milk shaved ice and fruit at Gerarda’s

Very Casual

The Garden Cafe – my deaf friend Veronica, who used to live on Bohol, recommended this restaurant. It is a restaurant that employs deaf people from Bohol. We liked this concept and wanted to support their cause. We enjoyed our meal especially the lumpia. $28 for a big lunch.

Toto e’ Peppino Pizza and Italiano Restaurant – we went looking for a Taco place we had heard good reviews about, but when we found it closed we ended up at this wonderful little Italian spot. Pizza was authentic and delicious, service was great and as usual…so inexpensive. $18 dollars for pizza, salad and beer.

Garlic n’ Lemon Bistro – this highly rated Alona area restaurant says it’s Thai, but we actually didn’t find much Thai on the menu. However we did find delicious food, giant portions, lovely service and great prices. Our dinner was $25 and we took lots of food home.

The Signature Dish – Garlic Shrimp at Garlic n’ Lemon Bistro

Guitarwoodhouse – We came to the Guitarwoodhouse just because it was a must see. We only had a beer and an appetizer (an authentic Filipino pork dish called sisig), but the Guitarwoodhouse has a full menu, bar and nightly music in a unique setting.

Much More

There is much more to do on this beautiful island, and we think we should come back and visit again. We did not get out to any of the outlying islands but there are multiple options to do this. Diving, snorkeling and free diving are very popular activities and draw the most visitors.

Our Airbnb bungalow was perfect for a long stay, complete with pool, bottled water and a kind and helpful host. We paid with tax and fees $69 per night. Rate varies by season. With a long stay it included a weekly house cleaning. We would definitely stay here again.

How To Get Here

Originally we had booked an Airbnb in Cebu City on the island of Cebu. But that got canceled, and in hindsight we are so grateful it did. Otherwise we would not have ended up on Panglao/Bohol. But we already had a flight to Cebu City from Manila that we couldn’t change. So from Cebu City we took the two hour ferry to Bohol. See it here.

However, there is no reason to go through Cebu. You can fly direct to the newly opened Panglao Airport from Manila. There are also direct flights to Panglao from Korea.

We Will Be Back

We did not meet any other Americans. This surprised us given how popular Vietnam and Thailand are with American travelers, why not here? Likely the Americans here are staying at the resorts or are full-time expats we did not encounter. It’s a very inexpensive place to retire. We only met a couple of Europeans. Most the visitors are Korean, Japanese and Chinese. We thought it was an outstanding destination.

We had the best day snorkeling Napaling Reef

Our Favorite Things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines

Thank you for reading our post Our Favorite Things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines. We definitely think more people should visit here. It is so inexpensive, and also beautiful. The beaches are clean and the food is good and the people are friendly. It is now the most, budget friendly place we have ever visited since we started our world travels more than seven years ago. It beat out Bulgaria by about $15 per day. You should get here before the secret is out.

Our next stop is Australia for two months…we hope you will continue to follow us on our Grand Adventure.

See last week’s post Cooking Class in Hong Kong with Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio

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Asia & Oceania Travel -- Island Life

Birds of Papua New Guinea

October 13, 2023

Laureen

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Birds of Papua New Guinea: A Paradise for Avian Enthusiasts (most of the photos in this post are from Canva)

PLEASE see Special Note at the bottom of this post about Woodland Park Zoo’s Tree Kangaroo Survival Program

Papua New Guinea, a country located in the southwestern Pacific Ocean, is renowned for its stunning landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and incredible biodiversity. Among its many natural wonders, Papua New Guinea is home to an astonishing array of bird species. It is a paradise for avian enthusiasts and ornithologists alike. My husband and I consider ourselves amateurs, but are nonetheless enthusiastic about spotting and tracking birds in our travels. The birds of Papua New Guinea were fascinating.

So Many Unique Birds

With over 700 recorded bird species, Papua New Guinea boasts one of the highest avian diversities in the world. Its unique geographical location, encompasses both tropical rainforests and highland habitats. This provides a wide range of ecosystems that support a remarkable variety of bird life. From the lowland jungles to the misty mountain peaks, Papua New Guinea offers a birdwatching experience like no other.

Raggiana Bird of Paradise

One of the most iconic bird species found in Papua New Guinea is the Raggiana bird-of-paradise (Paradisaea raggiana). This striking bird, with its vibrant red and yellow plumage and long, elegant tail feathers, is the national bird of Papua New Guinea. The male Raggiana bird-of-paradise performs elaborate courtship displays, showcasing its magnificent plumage and unique dance moves to attract a mate. Witnessing this spectacle in person is an unforgettable experience that highlights the beauty and diversity of Papua New Guinea’s avifauna.

King of Saxony Bird of Paradise

One of the most amazing birds we had the opportunity to see was the King of Saxony Bird of Paradise. Although he stayed very high up in the tree, we spent a long time in a raised “blind” built for bird viewing and watched the display of the King of Saxony’s incredible head feathers.

King of Saxony and his showy head feathers

Watching King of Saxony high in the tree showing off his very long feathers

Victoria Crowned Pigeon

Another fascinating bird species found in Papua New Guinea is the Victoria crowned pigeon (Goura victoria). This large, ground-dwelling bird is known for its regal appearance, with a beautiful blue-gray plumage, a fan-shaped crest, and bright red eyes. The Victoria crowned pigeon is endemic to the island of New Guinea and can be spotted in the lowland rainforests. Its unique appearance and gentle nature make it a favorite among birdwatchers and photographers.

Papuan Lorikeet

One of my favorites we spotted high in the mountains was the beautiful Papuan Lorikeet which we saw at the very end of our birdwatching days. It gave us a brief show and we were so impressed.

Stephanie’s Astrapia

Papua New Guinea is also home to a wide range of bird species that are endemic to the region, meaning they are found nowhere else in the world. These include the stunning Princess Stephanie’s Astrapia (Astrapia stephaniae). This bird-of-paradise species has iridescent green and purple plumage. We got up close and personal with the Astrapia and although the IPhone isn’t great for wildlife photos I did manage a video of this illusive bird. Exploring the remote and untouched habitats of Papua New Guinea allows bird enthusiasts to encounter these unique and rare species up close.

My video capture Stephanie’s Astrapia

Where to View Birds of Papua New Guinea

In addition to its diverse bird life, Papua New Guinea offers a variety of birdwatching opportunities for enthusiasts. The country is home to several national parks and conservation areas, such as Varirata National Park and the Tari Gap, which provide excellent birdwatching trails and observation points. Local guides and birding tours are available to assist visitors in spotting and identifying the numerous bird species found in these areas.

Brown Sickle Bill wasn’t shy and he was fun to watch his unique feeding style

Conservation of Birds of Papua New Guinea

However, it is important to note that Papua New Guinea’s avian paradise faces numerous challenges. Deforestation, habitat loss, and illegal wildlife trade pose significant threats to the country’s bird populations. Conservation efforts, such as the establishment of protected areas and community-based initiatives, are crucial. Efforts that will preserve Papua New Guinea’s unique avifauna for future generations.

Bird watching in Papua New Guinea offers a remarkable diversity of bird species in breathtaking natural settings. From the vibrant Raggiana bird-of-paradise to the regal Victoria crowned pigeon, the country’s avian inhabitants never fail to captivate and inspire. By exploring Birds of Papua New Guinea we not only gain a deeper appreciation for the natural world but also contribute to the conservation of these magnificent creatures. I am so grateful I had this unique opportunity.

SPECIAL NOTE

Because many of my readers are from the greater Seattle area I want to point out something about the Woodland Park Zoo. I often see people criticizing zoos. While this was a valid position in the past, in today’s world it no longer is. Today’s reputable zoos, such as Woodland Park, are NOT animals in the cages. Woodland Park is a conservation organization focused on preserving endangered species of the world and educating humans on their impact to wildlife. Woodland Park is home to a renowned Tree Kangaroo Conservation Program focused on the endangered Matschie’s Tree Kangaroo of Papua New Guinea. Begun in 1996 the program helps the people of PNG understand and protect the Matschies. It also educates on how deforestation and mining can cause extinction.

The program at The Woodland Park Zoo is run by Lisa Dabek, Phd, Program Director and Senior Conservation Scientist. Originally from New York City, Lisa started studying Matschies tree kangaroos in 1987 as part of her graduate studies at the University of Washington.

The Tree Kangaroo Conservation Program (TKCP) is the umbrella name for the partnership between the Woodland Park Zoo’s TKCP and TKCP-PNG, an independent non-governmental organization registered in Papua New Guinea. THIS is why zoos are important.

Do Your Research

Thank you for reading Birds of Papua New Guinea. I hope in your travels you will seek out conservation programs to learn and get up close with local wildlife. These are the opportunities to see wildlife but in a way that is safe for both animals and humans. We have done this in many countries around the world and never engage in unethical tourist -wildlife encounters.

Be sure to read my post from the rest of our experiences in this remarkable country My Adventures in Papua New Guinea.

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Island Life -- North America Travel

Maui Top Five Things to Do

Best of the Best, Maui Hawaii USA

September 22, 2023

Laureen

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Location: Maui Hawaii

MAUI is open for business and needs your support. Although Lahaina has years and years of recovery, the rest of Maui welcomes you. PLEASE consider supporting the aid efforts for the residents of Maui. We suggest the following;

Maui Food Bank

Maui Strong

American Red Cross of Hawaii

Maui United Way

Maui Humane Society

A re-share from October 2020 – Please check current status of individual suggestions as the situation is fluid.

Maui is hands down my favorite of all the Hawaiian Islands. We have now been on Maui for seven weeks and still have two more weeks to go! Everything about it I love. And despite the fact there isn’t anything negative I can say about this beautiful place, I do have some favorites. So today I thought I would share with you my Maui top five things to do – best of the best.

Top Five Beaches

Keawakapu – our most frequented beach in South Kihei offers a wide sandy beach, warm clear water and gentle waves
Makena Beaches – Makena also in the south, is dotted with public access to dozens of beautiful and often secluded beach. Secret Beach is worth finding. MaKena Beach State Park is a wonderful huge expanse of a beach and rarely busy.
Black Beach Hana – for the sheer beauty of it, Black Beach on the road to Hana is worth a visit
Baldwin Beach – on the north shore Baldwin Beach is great for body surfing
Napili Bay Beach – I have not swam at this beach but it is so beautiful and has easy access at the north end of the island

Top Five Snorkeling

Black Rock Kaanapali – the beach in front of the Kaanapali Sheraton known as Black Rock is one of my favorite places to snorkel. Clear and full of fish and turtles.
Turtle Rock – On a guided snorkel trip a few years ago we had the most amazing time at Turtle Rock – hundreds of turtles here.
Molokini – Though sometimes crowded, a snorkel tour to Molokini is a must at least once in your life to see the abundant marine life here.
Makena Beaches – there are several public access beaches on this long stretch of south Maui with some of the best and easily accessed snorkeling on the island.
Keawakapu – my favorite beach, and the one closest to where we usually stay, has an easy access into the water with snorkel options at the far north of the beach around a large lava reef. Wonderful sealife, turtles and fish.

Top Five Hikes

Waihee Ridge – mid island, five mile roundtrip with incline to spectacular views but weather can be unpredictable.
Kapalua Coastal Trail – hugging the coast from Kapalua to Napili this rugged and beautiful hike has views of Molokai, Lanai and the ocean. Windy.
Halemau’u Haleakala – hike down into the crater starting at 8000 foot level where you will find easy parking. The trail is a switch back and easy for most fit hikers. Temperatures can be very cold at times.
Sliding Sands Haleakala – this is a work out let me tell you, but if you are fit it’s spectacular. Bring lots of water, be prepared for wind and cold or heat and sun you never know. A great place to see the rare and beautiful Silver Sword plant.
Hoapili, La Perouse – past Makena where the road ends you will find parking and the trailhead of the Hoapili, the historic Kings Road. The rough trail takes you over a 300 year old lava field to the far south end of the island. Bring lots of water, it is a hot and dry trail.

See a great article here with more great hikes from Pride of Maui.

Top Five Fine Dining

Mamas Fish House Maui — Mamas Fish House

Mama’s Fish House, Paia – one of the supreme dining experiences anywhere in the world
Mala Ocean Tavern, Lahaina – Tiny but local chef has created a wonderful menu
Sea House, Napili – One of the best pieces of fish I have ever had
Roy’s Kaanapali – Celebrated chef Roy Yamachuchi’s restaurant never disappoints
Ko, Wailea – we celebrated our 38th wedding anniversary at Ko. It was incredible. Beautiful location and great service.

Top Five Casual Dining (six in this category!)

Sam Sato, Wailuku – tourists don’t know about this hidden local gem. Best noodles anywhere
Paia Fish Market (Kihei, Paia and Lahaina) – favorite among visitors and locals
Three’s Bar & Grill Kihei – creative menu of delicious small plates
Maui Brewing (Kihei and Kaanapali) – simple pub food with a healthy twist
Star Noodle, (Currently Closed) Lahaina – simply incredible. Be sure to have the Vietnamese pancake
Cafe O’Lei – Various locations. Great food, great price and prix fix menu daily.

Top Five Take Out Foods

L & L Plate Lunch, Kihei – quintessential Hawaiian plate lunch
Maui Taco, Kihei – fish tacos!
Island Gourmet Market, Wailea – great selection of local cuisine as well as sandwiches, pizza and more
Honolua Store, Kapalua – similar to above as well as a great gift shop
Food Trucks, Everywhere and for every taste bud

Top Five Breakfast Places

Kihei Cafe, popular, casual spot in Kihei
Sugar Beach Bake Shop, North Kihei – you gotta try the malasada donuts
Kula Bistro, Upcountry great Eggs Benedict
Island Fresh Cafe, Paia worth the trip, healthy and inexpensive
The Gazebo Kapalua (Currently Closed)

Top Five Places for Drinks

Lahaina Maui — Waikiki Brewing Co, Lahaina

Maui Brewing, Kihei
Merriman’s for Sunset, Kapalua
Hula Grill Kaanapali
Tommy Bahama’s Wailea (try the Mai Tai here)
Gannons Wailea

Top Five Just For the Heck of It

Ocean Vodka, tasting and tours, Kula – an innovative entreprenueal effort on Maui worth your support. I love the gin.
Spend a day shopping in Paia and Makawao
Nakalele Blow Hole, Napili – a wonderful site. Don’t get too close.
Sunrise or Sunset Haleakala (sunrise reservations required. Learn more here.)
Drive Hana Backwards (counterclockwise) – miss the crowds by doing this drive the opposite way most people go. Read what we wrote about Going to Hana Backwards here.

Top Four Inexpensive Golf

Maui Nui Golf Club — Maui Nui Golf, Kihei

Golf can be very expensive on Maui, but if you know where to go, you can play nine or 18 holes on a budget. Here are our favorite budget friendly courses (we can’t find five, so four will do).

Maui Nui, Kihei – well cared for grounds at a great price
Waiehu County Golf, Wailuku – county run course with a magnificent ocean view
Pukalani, Makawao, upcountry course with beautiful views, sometimes wet
The Dunes at Maui Lani, Kahului, beautiful course built on natural dunes.

That’s My List

So if you are thinking about visiting Maui for the first time, or are planning to return for another visit, check out some of my top fives – you can’t go wrong with any of them.

Be a Kind & Generous Visitor

And remember, Maui took a big hit during the pandemic and is now dealing with an unprecedented disaster. The local people have lost lives, family, homes, jobs, income and businesses closed permanently, on this island that depends on tourism. If you can afford to visit Maui, you can afford to make a donation while you are there. Please be generous.

Help breathe life back into the local economy by shopping and dining at locally owned stores, supporting locally run activities, taking time to talk to and understand the local people and their culture, and donate to a local non-profit agency that is helping the local people.

Mahalo!

Read My Favorite Islands Around the World here.

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