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Laureen

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review The Life Impossible by Matt Haig

    I really enjoyed Matt Haig’s novel The Midnight Library, so I was excited to see he had a new book. Wow. I loved this one even more. Here is my book review The Life Impossible by Matt Haig.

    Boring

    Grace Winters leads a self-proclaimed boring life in England as a 72-year-old retired teacher and widow. Trying to find her place in this new world of widowhood, Grace also continues to mourn the loss of her young son decades ago. Grace is lost in grief and middle age misery.

    A Voice From the Past

    Grace receives an email from a former student, a cry for help, someone who has admired her. Someone who remembers her kindness to him as a child. Someone who is looking for his own reasons to go forward…or not. Grace’s response to her student Maurice will be the entire novel – in all it’s beautifully written language, incredibly developed characters, fantastical magic and mystery…and a tropical paradise too.

    Ibiza

    Grace finds herself stunned when she receives a letter explaining that a long-lost colleague has left Grace a home on the island of Ibiza – a small Mediterranean island off the coast of Spain. Why would this women whom Grace has not spoken to in years do such a thing? The letter is vague, but intriguing. But in a move completely out of character for this aging women, Grace books a flight and finds herself on the way to Ibiza.

    Unexpected Adventure

    As Grace searches for answers about the disappearance of her friend and why the ramshackle seaside cottage was left to Grace, she will encounter adventures and mysteries to last a lifetime. Grace’s logical mind will be forced to consider paranormal mysteries, accept unusual and somewhat comedic locals like Alberto. And as the adventures continue a sinister plot unfolds (of course it does) when a money grabbing developer is trying to take control of a pristine piece of the island. Who is this villain?

    It all comes together in the end, a fun and lively story I could not put down. High praise for Matt Haig and this lovely character of Grace Winters he has given us.

    Five stars for The Life Impossible by Matt Haig. One of my favorite reads so far this year. See last week’s book review The Horse by Willy Vlautin. Thank you for reading my book review The Life Impossible by Matt Haig. Please share and comment!

    Asia & Oceania Travel

    Unbelievable Uzbekistan

    The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

    Location: Uzbekistan, Central Asia

    Welcome to the fifth of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Unbelievable Uzbekistan.

    Itcha Kala Khiva

    Where Am I

    Uzbekistan is a landlocked Central Asia country that borders Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrghzstan and Afghanistan. It has a population of 37 million. We entered and departed by car during our visit.

    Unbelievable Uzbekistan

    To Tour or Not to Tour

    Of the five Stan countries we visited with Intrepid Travel, Uzbekistan I think would be the easiest to visit without a tour. And many people do. Our guide was amazing though, and we found some hidden gems thanks to her. But if you are interested in visiting a Stan or two, starting with Uzbekistan is the way to go. Transportation is great, many people speak English, hiring guides for day trips or city tours is very easy in Unbelievable Uzbekistan.

    Khiva

    The Good

    Intrepid Travel

    Despite the above statement, I am so glad we decided to do this four week trip with Intrepid Travel. It was more expensive than our usual form of travel but so worth it. In Turkmenistan (see last week’s post here) we were required to have a Turkmen guide. She was lovely and sweet but maybe a little new at her job. But once we crossed the border (on foot and a bit unsure of what was happening) we found a whole new world with our next guide Svetlana. Svetlana would spend the next three weeks with us, and our experience could no way have been as wonderful without her guidance. Arne and I were the first to step across the border and she knew who we were and greeted us with a smile, a beautiful comfy coach bus and PAVED ROADS! Hallelujah for that!

    Actors portraying historical figures Khiva

    During this tour we will spend the most time in the country of Uzbekistan – an entire week. We will visit three ancient cities and one modern city in Uzbekistan. We will be educated, inspired and awed.

    Throughout this period we will travel in a coach, a couple of vans and by high speed train. Each high quality, safe and comfortable.

    The Bad

    I am hard pressed to find anything bad at all about Uzbekistan. But since the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, like all other countries in this region, Uzbekistan has had few Presidents. While non-governmental organizations have defined Uzbekistan as “an authoritarian state with limited civil rights”, significant reforms under Uzbekistan’s second president, Shavkat Mirziyoyev, have been made following the death of the first president, Islam Karimov. Owing to these reforms, relations with the neighboring countries of Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Afghanistan have drastically improved . In fact only recently have the borders between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan opened, creating much easier travel itinerary options for visitors.

    Bukhara

    As guests, we felt safe and welcome and everyone we met seemed happy and healthy. Average monthly salary in Uzbekistan is similar to other surrounding countries, about $400 USD. Meals were delicious and affordable, about $25 USD for two people. Gas prices were just under $4 USD per gallon.

    The Beautiful

    Everywhere we went in Unbelievable Uzbekistan was beautiful. The historic blue tiled buildings, the markets filled with handmade ceramics and carpets. The hotels we stayed, the people we met and the food. Wow. Let me take you city by city.

    Shah i Zinda Samarkand

    Fun Facts

    Uzbekistan grows more than 160 kinds of melon and watermelon is on nearly every menu. Uzbekistan is a major producer and exporter of both watermelon and cotton.

    Coton picking
    Embroidery

    Khiva

    After crossing the border from Turkmenistan we arrived in the ancient walled city of Khiva. Our coach was too big to enter the historic walled city so we unloaded and walked at dusk through the ancient streets. It was so beautiful at dusk and we arrived at the lovely family owned hotel with a little bit of a Fawlty Towers feel. Most of the group headed out for dinner but we were exhausted both mentally and physically from our crazy Turkmenistan day, so we just took the night off and went to bed.

    Gates to Khiva fortified city

    The next morning after a delicious breakfast we enjoyed a full day exploring Khiva with our guide.

    A Lot of History

    Khiva is said to be more than 2500 years old, with archaeological evidence showing it existed in the 6th century BCE. The entire old city is an open-air museum, and as our first stop it was hard to imagine the tour could get any better than this. Khiva was the first site to be named a UNESCO Heritage site in Uzbekistan. Khiva was on the caravan route and thrived in ancient times.

    Beautiful Khiva

    The next day we went wild in Khiva, visiting so many gorgeous and historic mosques, mausoleums, palace and madrassa. Khiva has 94 mosques and 63 madrassas and is considered an important center of Islam. We enjoyed traditional dance and learning some of the local crafts. After a full morning and lunch, we had free time. Arne and I returned to a few of our favorite spots and bought some souvenirs. We also decided to dine just the two of us in a traditional restaurant overlooking the colorful historic center. Despite comfortable daytime temps, as soon as the sun goes down it is cool in October. So we bundled in provided blankets and toasted our first stop in Unbelievable Uzbekistan.

    You can walk on part of the ancient walls of Khiva
    Arne trying on one of the local, popular sheep wool hats
    Inside the ancient Juma Masjd Mosque with it’s wooden carved pillars
    Dinner by moonlight overlooking the ancient city of Khiva

    Bukhara

    It was a long van ride from Khiva to Bukhara but the roads were good and I was listening to Audible on my headphones. We stopped for lunch briefly, arriving in the historic city of Bukhara late afternoon. We found ourselves in another lovely hotel with an inner courtyard just steps from the historic center.

    Bukhara

    A Little History

    Bukhara functioned as one of the main centers of Persian civilization from its early days in the 6th century BCE. The city’s architectural and archaeological sites form one of the pillars of Central Asian history and art and are a UNESCO Heritage Site.

    Beautiful Bukhara

    Located on the Silk Road, the city has long been a center of trade, scholarship, culture, and religion. During the Golden age of Islam, under the rule of Samanids, Bukhara became the intellectual center of the Islamic world. 

    Arrival

    After settling into our hotel we headed right out with a local guide to see many of the sites of this amazing town. Everything from the Ssitorai Mohi Khosa, once a summer palace of Bukharan emirs to the Chor-Bakr Necropolis. Everything here is stunning and well restored or preserved.

    Ulugh Beg Madrassa
    Chor-Bakr Necropolis

    Bukhara is home to a wonderful craft market where vendors sell the stunning Uzbekistan ceramics, hand made knives, rugs and scarves, and beautiful hand decorated copper and brass. I needed a bigger suitcase.

    Amazing Artisans in Bukhara

    At the end of this day the entire group enjoyed a delicious local meal together as we really began to appreciate the delicious, fresh and flavorful foods of Uzbekistan including soups, stews, pickles, meat and dessert.

    Delicious dumplins
    Fresh and local

    So Much More

    Day two arrived with rain, but that did not stop us from traveling just a mile outside of the city to experience the Ark Fortress . We walked back through a park enjoying lovely scenery and to the Ismail Samani Mausoleum. We had time on our own in the afternoon and Arne and I had a wonderful lunch in a traditional restaurant to learn more about the local food.

    Ark Fortress
    Samani Mausoleum

    Plov

    Speaking of local food, on this night we walked through the back alleys of hidden Bukhara to the home of a wonderful lady who taught us how to make the national dish of Uzbekistan – Plov. What a treat as she showed us the ancient way of cooking this rice and meat pilaf over a fire heated cauldron, all the layers of Plov. And then of course we ate it all! Absolutely delicious. Here is the Tasty Tuesday YouTube Video I did about learning to make Plov.

    Final Day

    On our last day in Bukhara, we had half the day to ourselves before the group headed out to catch the high-speed train to our next city. Weather was still wet, but Arne and I went back to the beautiful market to pick up some more souvenirs, enjoyed a great lunch in another traditional restaurant, and despite the rain headed to the market where the locals shop. We love seeing markets with local produce, meat, fish and in this case local specialties like pickles and halvah – a popular confection made from flour and sesame. Then it was off to the train station and on to Samarakand.

    Pickles!
    Halvah comes in many forms
    I had to bring a few of these home.

    Samarkand

    Whoa. So Beautiful. We arrived Samarkand after dark, and the Gur-Amir Mausoleum next to our hotel took our breath away. We would visit this stunning piece of architecture the next day and learn all about the conqueror Timur also known as Tamerlane. Timur (Emir Timur) or Tamerbeg (9 April 1336 – 17 February 1405) was a Turco-Mongol conqueror in the 14th century who is regarded as one of history’s greatest military leaders and strategists. He founded the Timurid Empire in 1370.

    Gur-Amir Mausoleum
    Gur Amir Mausoleum

    Rainy Day

    After a wonderful breakfast at our hotel we headed out with our hooded raincoats for a day of exploring beautiful Samarkand. It’s really hard to decide but this might have been the most beautiful city of the three so far – despite a very wet day.

    We started this full Samarkand day at Registan, the central square of Samarkand. Researchers estimate that Samarkand was founded in the 8th–7th centuries BC. However, archaeological excavations have uncovered evidence of human activity dating back to the Upper Paleolithic era, 40,000 years ago.

    Registran Central Square

    From the Registan we proceeded to the huge Bibi Khanum mosque and the ancient bazaar, picking up a few more souvenirs. One of my favorite sites of the day was Shak-i-Zinda a sacred necropolis of blue tiled mausoleums. The tile, carved ancient pillars and all part of the Timurid dynasty. Breathtaking.

    Ulugh Beg Madrassa
    The detail and presicion. Oh my!

    After another amazing lunch Arne and I decided to use our afternoon free time to walk to the ancient Samarkand Ulegbek’s Observatory, built in the 1420s by the Timurid astronomer Ulugh Beg. This school of astronomy was constructed under the Timurid Empire, and was the last of its kind from the Islamic Medieval period. Delicious dinner ended this great day.

    Inside the ancient observatory

    Sunny Day

    Our final day was sunny and we made the most of our time before heading to the high-speed train again. Svetlana took us to a hidden restaurant we could never have found on our own to experience Samsa, a tiny sandwich (like a slider) baked in giant outdoor ovens and filled with meats. Oh My Gosh. Absolutely delicious. Next we headed to Bumajnaya Paper factory that makes hand-made paper the ancient way. The small operation includes a wonderful interpretive center explaining the history and demonstrating the ancient art of paper making.

    Samsa bread cooking in a sidewalk overn
    Mouthwatering Samsa
    Bumajnaya Paper Factory
    Learning that ancient way of paper making

    Time to say farewell to beautiful Samarkand and jump back on the train to our final Unbelievable Uzbekistan destination of Tashkent.

    Tashkent

    It was a beautiful sunny day when we woke up in Tashkent, the capital city of Uzbekistan. We started off with a local guide to tour the city, which is more modern than those we visited before. It was fun to use the Tashkent Metro, a beautiful metro system with each station decorated with a different theme.

    View of the City of Tashkent
    Tashkent Metro

    Next we headed to the giant Chorsa Bazaar, an astonishing place where you can buy just about anything! Most fascinating was the meat pavilion….an entire enormous building just selling meat! I was also intrigued watching the bakers make the local bread in open clay ovens. This bakery makes about a million and half loaves of bread a year…feeding Tashkent! So far I was loving this city of 3 million people.

    Meat Pavilion at Chorsa Bazaar
    Meat Pavilion
    Handmade everyday
    It must be sweltering in the summer

    At this point some people went back to the hotel but most of us piled into one tiny cab and headed to an amazing restaurant that makes plov in humongous cauldrons all day long. They like things big in Tashkent. The plov was good (not as good as what we had at the cooking class) but most fascinating was watching the process of this restaurant that serves thousands of people each day.

    Central Asian Plov Center
    Must be some kind of a world record…

    Arne and I decided to head out on our own for the rest of the afternoon. We visited the small but nice Tashkent Hand Craft Museum then went out to dinner at a lovely restaurant and enjoyed a modern twist on Uzbekistan food. Our final night in this wonderful country.

    Hand Craft Museum
    Another delicious meal. There is no bad food in Uzbekistan

    Unbelievable Uzbekistan

    We really enjoyed this country, the people, the history, the beauty and the food. It’s a great destination, easy to get around and definitely worth a visit. Get it on your radar. But now it was time for us to move on to Tajikistan. I’ll tell you about that next Friday. Meanwhile, thank you for reading my post Unbelievable Uzbekistan. See last week’s post Turkmenistan, Ashgabat and Beyond here. I hope you will come back next week for more of this wonderful journey.

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review The Horse by Willy Vlautin

    This is a story of redemption about a washed up country musician, addiction, loneliness and a horse. This i s my book review The Horse by Willy Vlautin.

    The Horse

    Don’t confuse this book with Horse by Geraldine Brooks. Although that was an excellent book The Horse by Willy Vlautin is very different.

    Music and Misfortunes

    Sixty year old Al lives on a remote mining claim, barely surviving on canned soup and whiskey. He is in a deep depression with memories of his childhood, his ex-wife and his time touring as a country musician. Vlautin takes us through all the stages and misfortunes and mistakes of Al’s life with a series of flashbacks. Vlautin writes with compassion and empathy bringing his story full up to present day – the day the horse arrives.

    Horse

    One frosty frozen morning Al looks out the window of his shabby cabin to see a horse. Is he imagining it? Al realizes the horse is real, blind and nearly frozen. As Al considers, for days, what to do about the horse he is reminded of a loveless life of tragedy, addiction and the small time country music life.

    A beautiful book about humans surviving tough times, about tenderness, loneliness and grace, and of course how animals can sometimes save us from the darkest times.

    *****Five stars for The Horse by Willy Vlautin. Thanks for reading my book review The Horse by Willy Vlautin. See last week’s book review There Are Rivers in the Sky by Elif Shafak.

    Asia & Oceania Travel

    Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond

    The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

    Location: Turkmenistan

    Welcome to the fourth of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about the unusual country of TurkmenistanAshgabat and Beyond.

    Where The Heck is Turkmenistan?

    Turkmenistan in Central Asia

    Don’t fret if you have never heard of this country. It definitely is under the radar for most people. This map shows Turkmenistan, a landlocked country in Central Asia. With only 7 million people, it is the smallest of the Central Asian countries. Turkmenistan is one of the least visited countries in the world due to the difficulty in obtaining a visa, and its totalitarian regime.

    Desert Sunset in Northern Turkmenistan

    The Good

    Our visit to this somewhat strange and interesting country was the start of a month long tour with Intrepid Travel. On arrival in Turkmenistan we met the ten other seasoned travelers we would spend the next four weeks with. This is our second tour with Intrepid, which does unique small group tours. We loved our Bolivia tour and felt confident Intrepid would be perfect for us to visit the Five Stans. It surely was, and our group was wonderful too.

    Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond is not an easy place to visit…or to understand. But being with a tour certainly helped smooth the way.

    Independence Park and Memorial, Ashgabat

    The Bad

    The country is widely criticized for its poor human rights, including for its treatment of minorities, and its lack of press and religious freedoms. Since its independence from the Soviet Union was declared in 1991, Turkmenistan has been ruled by repressive totalitarian regimes: that of President for Life Saparmurat Niyazov until his death in 2006; Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, who became president in 2007 after winning a non-democratic election (he had been vice-president and then acting president previously); and his son Serdar, who won a subsequent 2022 presidential election described by international observers as neither free nor fair, and now shares power with his father. (Wikipedia)

    The Turkmenistan government has been described as stricter than North Korea. Few Turkmen citizens leave their country. Some do go abroad to study, and others travel if they can afford it. But most do not.

    Halk Hakydasy War Memorial Park

    But our visit to Turkmenistan did not include any information on the above. The Turkmen people, including our guide, are very proud of their country and respectful and cautious of criticizing. But as an outside observer, I have to tell you, Ashgabat felt like Disneyland. A movie set. A facade. Let me start from arrival.

    Entering Turkmenistan

    After an overnight flight from Istanbul we arrived Ashgabat at 2:00am to find a long and confusing entry process. To visit Turkmenistan you must have a “Letter of Invitation” which we obtained before arrival with assistance of Intrepid. On arrival we got in line to purchase our visa at a cost of $125 USD, paid in cash on arrival.

    Soaring marble ceilings Ashgabat International Airport

    What we didn’t expect though, was a requirement also to have a Covid test before being allowed to enter. At an additional cost of $50 USD – cash of course. All of this line waiting and cash exchanging took about an hour. Eventually we retrieved our luggage and found our tour guide waiting for us and four others who were on the same flight. As we waited, we had time to admire the marble airport, with soaring ceilings. Most of the people at the opulent airport were armed guards rather than visitors -our first sign that something strange is happening here.

    Designed to look like a bird, Ashgabat International Airport

    Hotel

    Our lovely guide Ejesh explained to us in the van on the way from the airport that we had been moved to a different hotel than what we expected. Apparently the original hotel was now being taken over by the government to host some foreign dignitaries. Instead we ended up in a strange little hotel outside of the city. We had expected to be in the city, and had paid for a nice hotel. Disappointing and all very strange.

    When we woke in the morning we had a full day until our group arrival meeting at 5:00pm. But now that we were so far out of town we couldn’t really wander. We didn’t feel confident enough to take a taxi into town, not knowing even where to go, so we napped and relaxed until our meeting.

    Internet and Social Media

    Despite my study and feeling prepared to enter Turkmenistan, I was astonished to learn social media is banned. No where in all my reading before leaving the USA did I see this. Internet was nearly impossible to come by and all social media platforms are banned. We could not get VPN to work.

    Welcome to Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond

    We were jet-lagged but very curious about this country. We were also anxious to meet our group who we would spend the next four weeks with. In a situation like this it takes a little time to feel each other out, but soon we all felt comfortable together.

    Ashgabat

    Our first evening after the meeting we headed out to a traditional Turkmenistan restaurant. The restaurant was inside a huge and sparkling marble mall. Like all the buildings in Ashgabat it was new and fancy in keeping with the Ashgabat image of rich and beautiful.

    I’m not even sure how many stories there were in this place – Berkarar Kinoteatry Mall

    It’s hard to say if Ashgabat is good or bad. There is some of both. It is certainly beautiful I’ll give it that, but it just did not feel ‘real”.

    Independence Park
    Independence Park

    Day two we headed out for a very full day of sight seeing. We were shuttled from monument to monument on what seemed a very restricted tour. Dozens of monuments honoring the great men that are deemed important by the government. Everyone from historic Turkmen philosophers to Lenin to the current President and his family have monuments built to them. As you drive around this city you can not miss that there is not a pothole, or a dead bush or a piece of litter. Everywhere workers are touching up paint, sweeping and pruning. The white marble city is perfect in every way. And every car in the city is white. Only white cars are allowed. It was a bit freaky.

    Ertugrul Gazi Mosque
    Turkmenistan Carpet Museum

    Things will be quite different a couple of days later when we leave the city. More on that below.

    All That Glitters

    The full day tour turned into a night tour after sunset with the glittering city aglow in sparkles. Every monument and every building fully lit – from our rooftop restaurant we could admire the colorful scene.

    Ashgabat view
    Turkmenbasy Ruhy Mosque
    Ahal Ferris Wheel

    Throughout the city we also noted that there was a uniform way of dressing; men and boys in black suits. School age women in girls all wore the same long dress and head covering; young girls in pink, high school girls in green, university in red. We had the pleasure of meeting a group of high school kids on a field trip. They were all thrilled to meet us. Meeting visitors is rare.

    Meeting school girls

    Many recent restrictions have been imposed on women regarding the right to drive and beauty care. This article is astonishing to those of us who take those freedoms for granted.

    All of that said, the people we did meet seemed happy.

    Akhal-Teke

    On the day we were scheduled to leave Ashgabat we had a half day more in the city. Due to the debacle with the hotel, we were given an added activity for the morning. We could visit the Turkmenistan History Museum or go to a stable to learn about the famous Akhal-Teke horses. Arne and I chose the horses and everyone else chose the museum.

    Ahal Horse Stables
    Our lovely host

    The Akhal-Teke is a horse from Turkmen, in the southern region of the modern country of Turkmenistan. These horses have been renowned as cavalry mounts and racehorses for some 3,000 years. The Akhal-Teke has superb natural gaits, and is the outstanding sporting horse from this area. Queen Elizabeth was a fan and owned several.

    The stunning Akhal – Teke breed

    We had a private guide take us to a gorgeous stable about 40 min outside of the city. Back home we would call this a ranch and it was hands down the cleanest most pristine ranch/stables I have ever been to. We had a personal tour by the lovely gentleman owner whose family has been raising Akhal-Teke horses for multiple generations. We did not regret choosing this option over the museum. In fact, when our time in Turkmenistan was done, this was my favorite thing we did.

    The Bad & The Beautiful

    That afternoon we loaded up our group into three separate jeeps to begin the long trek out of the city. We were warned the roads would be bad. Bad is an understatement. After the perfection of Ashgabat, the quality of the roads on this very long drive was downright appalling. For hours we bumped and swerved over huge potholes and unbelievably poor conditions. It really began to dawn on us that Ashgabat is the only place in this country that the government is investing in. Out here along these dusty horrific roads the people are living in simple villages, tending gardens, herding goats and subsisting.

    Not far outside of the city things began to look very different

    The average salary in Turkmenistan is between $200-$400 USD per month. The few meals we paid for in this country were in Ashgabat and we paid about $30USD including wine. These meals were at pretty fancy restaurants. Incredibly though, gas here is .40 cents a gallon. Turkmenistan is rich with oil and natural gas.

    This was actually one of the good roads….trying to take a photo on most of the roads was impossible since we had to hang on

    Darvaza Gas Crater

    Often called The Door to Hell, Darvaza Gas Crater was our destination – finally arriving after dark. What is this crazy place?

    Darvaza Gas Crater

    The Darvaza gas crater is a burning natural gas field collapsed into a cavern near Darvaza, Turkmenistan. Hundreds of natural gas fires illuminate the floor and rim of the crater. The crater has been burning since the 1980s. How the crater formed is unknown, but engineers ignited the crater to prevent poisonous gases from spreading.

    Darvaza Gas Crater
    The Door to Hell

    Located about 260 kilometres (160 mi) north of Ashgabat, it has a diameter of 60–70 metres (200–230 ft) and a depth of about 30 metres (98 ft). (Wikipedia)

    Walking from the crater up to our yurts

    Over the years there have been concerns about the health affects of the gas on the surrounding area. Nonetheless the Door to Hell has become a very popular tourist destination. Recently many Yurt villages have popped up to accommodate tour groups like ours. We stayed one night here and headed out early again in the morning for more bumpy roads.

    Our yurt for one night. It was comfy

    Kunya-Urgench

    The very long and bumpy ride brought us to Kunya-Urgench UNESCO Heritage site, one of the oldest sites in Turkmenistan. Also known as Old Urgench or Urganj, it is a city of about 30,000 inhabitants in north Turkmenistan. It is the site of the ancient town of Gurgānj, which contains the ruins of the capital of Khwarazm. Its inhabitants deserted the town in the early eighteenth century in order to develop a new settlement, and Kunya-Urgench has remained undisturbed ever since.

    Kunya-Urgench UNESCO site

    This site contains several ancient structures including a mausoleum. The ancient buildings are considered some of the first where intricate tile work was used. For thousands of years these buildings have survived, even including a rampage by the infamous Genghis Khan.

    Kunya-Urgench UNESCO site

    I really enjoyed this stop on our tour, although getting here was not fun. I’d be hard pressed to recommend it to most people, as it really was painful driving. If Turkmenistan wants to attract visitors, the roads outside of Ashgabat are a huge problem.

    And guess what? After our tour we had to get back into the jeeps. Ugh.

    Border Crossing

    A quick lunch stop and then a bat-out-of-hell drive to get to the border with Uzbekistan before it closes at 6pm. Seriously? Wow. And we made it with 30 minutes to spare. It was all a bit frantic. I hope Ejesh our guide was shown gratitude by everyone in our group, despite the border chaos. She helped us through the first part of the exit from Turkmenistan and showed us where we get on a small bus to ride through what is known as “no mans land”, the buffer zone between Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. Then she was gone and our little group was on our way.

    Watch out for camels

    The bus takes us to the Uzbekistan entrance where we went through passport control and luggage screening and then on foot continued to the final entrance to Uzbekistan where our new guide Svetlana was waiting. She was a sight for sore eyes, as was the beautiful huge and comfortable coach and well paved roads. Uzbekistan was looking pretty good…and we were happy to arrive.

    Final Thoughts

    I am grateful I had the opportunity to experience Turkmenistan, but I don’t have any desire to return. Looking back on it now I really wonder what is going on behind the scenes. I felt like I was being watched. What was happening behind the walls of all those marble buildings? Are people really happy? Safe? Turkemenistan Ashgabat and Beyond.

    It was a crazy start to what would be an amazing 28 day tour, and things got better and better in the weeks ahead. Please come back next Friday for a post about Uzbekistan…a gorgeous and interesting country I would certainly return to.

    Anau Mosque Ruins

    Thanks for reading my post Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond. We love it when you pin, share and comment on our blog posts. Be sure to check out last week’s post Baku Azerbaijan and continue to follow our odyssey in Central Asia – next Uzbekistan.

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review There Are Rivers in the Sky by Elif Shafak

    Ancient and modern this book felt like reading a fairy tale. I was enraptured from the beginning – the beginning where we meet a tiny raindrop. Here is my book review There are Rivers in the Sky by Elif Shafak.

    Blending Magic and Reality

    Shafak captured me with her 2021 novel The Island of Missing Trees, placed on the island of Cyprus. I’m in love with Cyprus and this book was a wonderful read. She has a fragile and lyrical writing style. She also is committed to truth and honesty…read her bio here, where you will learn that the Turkish government (she is part Turkish) prosecuted her for “insulting Turkishness” with her novel the Bastard of Istanbul. That novel addresses the Armenian genocide, which the Turks pretend did not happen. I’m definitely adding that to my TBR. See my recent blog post about Armenia.

    Blending magic and reality in There are Rivers in the Sky, Shafak takes us on a remarkable journey that spans both decades and the globe from Iraq to London. By sheer coincidence I was reading this book while traveling through Armenia, Azerbaijan and The Stans. Many of these countries border or have relations with Turkey, Iran and Iraq. The coincidence gave me the opportunity to learn more deeply about the entire region and it’s history.

    Characters to Fall in Love With

    There are Rivers in the Sky uses water; raindrop, snowflake, the Tigris and the Thames, to connect the characters of this story. But beautifully she also uses an ancient poem the Epic of Gilgamesh to tie the characters together.

    Arthur is born on a snowy day along the River Thames in London, 1840. His brilliant mind will propel him out of poverty and eventually to search out and study Ninevah and the Epic of Gilgamesh.

    Young Narin is excited to be baptized as a ten-year old Yazidi girl. But in 2014 the families ancient ancestral lands in Iraq are being destroyed and it might be too dangerous and too late.

    Zaleekah is a London hydrologist in 2018 who has been raised by her wealthy uncle, who refuses to talk about their shared ancestral history or the deaths of Zaleekah’s parents. Zaleekah’s recent divorce has her depressed, but a new friend and an eye-opening new book about Ninevah will give her life purpose.

    Connections

    These characters are connected in many ways, and especially through water. The Thames and Tigris bring both life and death into this spectacular tale.

    *****Five stars for There are Rivers in the Sky by Elif Shafak. One of my favorite books this year. Can you say Pulitzer? Thanks for reading my book review There Are Rivers in the Sky by Elif Shafak. See last week’s book review First Lie Wins by Ashley Elston. We love it when you share and pin our book reviews. Thank you.

    Europe Travel

    Baku, Azerbaijan

    The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

    Location: Baku Azerbaijan

    Welcome to the third of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Baku, Azerbaijan.

    Wow. Baku was just Wow. A surprisingly modern city, full of culture and color – we really enjoyed our week-long visit to Baku, Azerbaijan. Let’s talk about it.

    Where Am I?

    We flew from Tbilisi, Georgia to Baku, Azerbaijan on Azerbaijan airlines. It was an easy one hour flight. We hired a car to take us to our Airbnb located just a few blocks from the old city. Although I didn’t love this Airbnb (smelled like cigarettes), I did love both the location and the view.

    View of the Flaming Towers from our Airbnb

    Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, sits on the Caspian Sea. This was my first glimpse of the immense and blue Caspian.

    The Caspian is the world’s largest inland body of water, often described as the world’s largest lake and sometimes referred to as a full-fledged sea. It has a salinity of approximately 1.2% (12 g/L), about a third of the salinity of average seawater. It is bounded by Kazakhstan to the northeast, Russia to the northwest, Azerbaijan to the southwest, Iran to the south, and Turkmenistan to the southeast.

    First look at the Caspian Sea

    The sea stretches 1,200 km (750 mi) from north to south, with an average width of 320 km (200 mi). Its gross coverage is 386,400 km2 (149,200 sq mi) and the surface is about 27 m (89 ft) below sea level. Its main freshwater inflow, Europe’s longest river, the Volga, enters at the shallow north end. (Wikipedia)

    Where is Azerbaijan?

    Azerbaijan has no diplomatic relations with Armenia to its west, but has good relations with its other neighbors Russia, Georgia and Iran.

    Fabulous Architecture all over Baku

    A Little History

    Azerbaijan, located at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, has a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was inhabited by various tribes, including the Medes and Persians, and later became part of the Achaemenid Empire. Throughout the centuries, Azerbaijan was influenced by various cultures and empires, including the Greeks, Romans, and Arabs. In the early Middle Ages, it became a center of Islamic culture and learning. The Seljuk Turks and later the Safavid dynasty played significant roles in shaping the region’s political and cultural landscape, with Tabriz emerging as a prominent cultural hub.

    The Main Gate to the ancient Old Town

    In the 19th century, Azerbaijan fell under Russian control following the Russo-Persian Wars, leading to significant societal changes and the emergence of a national identity. The early 20th century saw the brief establishment of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic in 1918, which was the first secular democratic republic in the Muslim world. However, this independence was short-lived, as Azerbaijan was incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920. During the Soviet era, Azerbaijan underwent industrialization and urbanization, but it also faced repression. The country regained its independence in 1991 following the collapse of the Soviet Union. Since then, Azerbaijan has navigated challenges related to its territorial disputes, particularly with Armenia over Nagorno-Karabakh, while seeking to establish itself as a significant player in the region’s energy and political landscape.

    Beautifully restored Old Town

    The Bad

    As an American who believes in democracy and human rights, the current authoritarian government of Azerbaijan is disturbing. I was careful not to criticize or comment on the ruling party while in the country.

    As of 2023, Azerbaijan’s political climate is characterized by a centralized and authoritarian governance structure, with a strong emphasis on stability and control by the ruling party. President Ilham Aliyev, who has been in power since 2003 following the death of his father, Heydar Aliyev, leads a government that is often criticized for suppressing dissent, limiting political freedoms, and curtailing media independence. Political opposition is fragmented and faces significant challenges, including imprisonment of opposition leaders and activists, which has raised concerns among international human rights organizations.

    Old and New in Baku

    The political landscape is further complicated by ongoing territorial disputes, particularly with Armenia over the Nagorno-Karabakh region. Following a brief war in 2020, Azerbaijan regained control over significant territories in the region, which has fostered a sense of nationalism and pride among many Azerbaijanis. However, the government also faces challenges related to economic diversification, corruption, and social inequality. While the country has substantial oil and gas resources that contribute to its economy, there is an increasing call for political reforms and greater transparency in governance, especially from civil society and younger generations seeking more democratic governance. Overall, Azerbaijan’s political climate remains tightly controlled, with the government prioritizing stability and territorial integrity over political pluralism and civil liberties.

    The military forceful take over of Nagorno-Karabakh has caused tension with the United Nations and European Union. Calls for a renegotiation of the relationship with Azerbaijan are under review.

    The Good

    Despite the government structure, there is progressive religious freedom in Azerbaijan with a secular system that welcomes all religions, though the majority of the population is Muslim. Additionally, despite its oil wealth, Azerbaijan has a progressive alternative energy plan expanding its support and use of solar and wind energy.

    Architecture is very unique and playful and the local government in Baku has invested heavily in interesting and fun designs that contrast in a lovely way with the historic and ancient parts of the city. We enjoyed all of that very much.

    Night view of Baku and the Caspian Sea

    A visitor can travel to Azerbaijan very inexpensively. Enjoying a delicious meal and drinks throughout the city of Baku was only about $20 USD for two. Gas prices are about $2.60 USD per gallon. Entrance prices to museums is also inexpensive. Azerbaijanis earn about $750 USD per month, higher in the city.

    The Beautiful

    Despite the country’s wealth being controlled by one ruling family, investment in Baku is apparent with beautiful museums and architecture – much of it government funded. From our Airbnb we enjoyed the view of the Flaming Towers, a mixed use but nearly unoccupied set of three buildings beautiful both day and night.

    Flaming Towers changed throughout the evening every night

    Ancient Old City

    We did a self-guided walk of the walled old city, which was conveniently about three blocks from our Airbnb.

    Shirvanshah’s Palace in the Old Town was definitely one of my favorites

    The Inner City (Icheri Sheher) has preserved much of its 12th-century defensive walls. The 12th-century Maiden Tower (Giz Galasy) is built over earlier structures dating from the 7th to 6th centuries BC, and the 15th-century Shirvanshahs’ Palace is one of the pearls of Azerbaijan’s architecture. (Wikipedia)

    The Old Town full of hidden treasures

    We spent one full day exploring the ancient old city and this is also where we ate some of our favorite meals (see more on that below).

    Museums

    Baku has a surprising number of museums. We did not visit all of them but during our weeklong visit we did visit four including the tiny book museum and the National History Museum. My two favorites however where the Carpet Museum and the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center (named after the former President).

    There are a few museums and sights further out of the city, but while Arne continued his recovery from the car accident, we chose to stay close to Baku during our visit.

    Named for Azerbaijan’s first President, the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center was jaw dropping. Both the architecture and the exhibits inside.
    Carpet display at the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center
    The architecture of the Carpet Museum is designed to look like a rolled up carpet.
    In addition to historic and modern day carpet display and information, the museum had several women working on hand-tied carpets.
    The National History Museum provided a chronological look at the history of the region for thousands of years.
    Traditional costumes in the National History Museum

    Entertainment

    We really enjoyed visiting the Shirvanshah Museum restaurant (puzzlingly, not associated with or anywhere near the Shirvanshah Museum!) to watch evening dance performance with our dinner. This is a very popular and gigantic restaurant, locals love it for events and family gatherings. It’s also a bit touristy and we had better food elsewhere, but we still enjoyed it.

    Traditional dance and music at Shirvanshah Museum restaurant
    A stewed chicken and rice dish at Shirvanshah Museum restaurant was very good

    On our final night in Baku we enjoyed a lovely dinner then proceeded to the Baku Marionette Theater for a special show by talented local marionette performers. We were so happy we decided to do that.

    Such a well done performance
    Talented cast at the Baku Marionette Theatre

    Architecture

    Because of the beautiful architecture throughout the city, we decided to do a guided night tour to enjoy this gorgeous city aglow. We booked the tour through Viator. Our guide was excellent with an expansive knowledge of the city. We enjoyed a gondola ride to the hill that gave us a birds-eye view of the sparkling and cosmopolitan metropolis. We also visited a beautiful mosque and the eternal flame and memorial to the victims who died in Black January.  Also known as Black Saturday or the January Massacre, this was a violent crackdown on Azerbaijani nationalism and anti-Soviet sentiment in Baku on 19–20 January 1990, as part of a state of emergency during the dissolution of the Soviet Union

    Eternal Flame overlooks the city
    Crystal glove atop the Eternal Flame
    High above the city on our night tour
    Even the stairs glow
    It’s a city of contrasts

    And Then the Food

    Of course I can’t ever write a blog post without talking about food. Azerbaijan did not disappoint and we enjoyed amazing food and wine in Baku. And inexpensive.

    The cuisine is not dissimilar to the other Caucasus countries but also had its own tastes. One of the best things we enjoyed was plov – a delicious pilaf wrapped inside pastry. Once cut table side by the waiter, a warm and fragrant lamb stew is poured on top.

    Plov was one of our favorites

    Another favorite was piti. This lamb stew was mixed and served table side, and enjoyed with delicious flat bread used as your utensil to sop up all the tasty goodness. Really good.

    Piti prepared table side

    Kefti becha I enjoyed twice because it was so good. A slow wine braised chicken that was melt in your mouth.

    Wine braised chicken

    Yogurt soup, pickled vegetables, crispy eggplant and delicious soups and stews are abundant. Pomegranate and pumpkin also were used frequently. Many fresh breads, particularly flat bread were available for every meal as was cheese and fruit.

    Yogurt Soup
    Crispy Eggplant we ordered several times

    Tea is the drink of choice in Azerbaijan. It was common to see groups of men in the afternoon enjoying a pot of tea together with small sweet snacks and fruits.

    Tea with a view – I love these Samovar Tea Makers. I want one for home.

    We did an afternoon tea service too. I really wanted to enjoy an authentic tea with the ancient coal-fired samovar keeping our tea hot at the table. When enjoying this tea you are offered multiple small sweets and cookies and jam. The jam is very sweet and abundant with large pieces of fruit. Popular jams are apricot, cherry, and plum.

    Here is my YouTube video talking about how much we loved the foods of Baku.

    YouTube Video about Azerbaijan Cuisine

    Final Thoughts

    Admittedly I came to Azerbaijan not knowing a lot about this nation or the city of Baku. We had a positive visit and enjoyed the locals we met, the museums and the architecture. We enjoyed the food and the price was right. I encourage people to visit this city, and if you have the time, you should venture further out to see more of the country than we did. Despite some political issues we felt very safe, very welcome and really enjoyed everything about our visit. We definitely came away with a much greater understanding of the three countries of the Caucasus region; Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan.

    Very friendly locals

    Thank you for reading my post Baku, Azerbaijan. See last week’s post about Tbilisi Georgia. I hope you will come next Friday for the first of my posts about our Five Stans tour – we begin with the kinda crazy country of Turkmenistan.

    We love it when you pin, comment and share our blog posts. Thank you.

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review First Lie Wins by Ashley Elston

    This book is a bit of a departure from the kind of Audible books I usually listen to. But I enjoyed it while on long car and bus rides during my recent trip through the Five Stan countries. Here is my book review First Lie Wins by Ashley Elston.

    The Mystery of Evie Porter

    While reading this book I was reminded of a movie from back in the ’90’s called Point of No Return with Bridget Fonda. Anyone remember that film? Well First Lie Wins is similar; a mysterious women working for an even more mysterious operation undercover.

    Evie Porter finds herself recruited to a world of espionage and deceit. Her identity and location changes with each job, and so does the money she makes. Having no family or friends it’s easy to change everything about herself for each and every job that the mysterious “Mr. Smith” choses her to complete.

    First Lie Wins

    Her current alias – Evie Porter, needs to get very close to the suspect Ryan Sumner. Very close. In fact Evie finds herself falling for Ryan, even while understanding he is up to something mysterious himself. When a women using Evie’s REAL name shows up in town, the case is thrown into a whirlwind and bad things happen…including a fatal car accident.

    Plot Twists and Turns

    Elston does a good job creating a suspense filled novel using flashbacks and sympathy for the protagonist and her past and present predicament. The novel also includes other well written characters. Sometimes the plot is a bit absurd and unbelievable, but hey…it’s fiction. The author definitely threw some unexpected plot twists into the mix and it kept me interested and often on the edge of my seat – literally in the van I was riding in.

    Who Lives Happily Ever After

    Well you will have to read First Lie Wins by Ashley Elston to find out who lives happily ever after. It might surprise you. Thanks for reading my book review First Lie Wins by Ashley Elston for this week’s Reading Wednesday. Check out last week’s book review All the Colors of the Dark by Chris Whitaker.

    ****Four stars for First Lie Wins by Ashley Elston. We love it when you comment, pin and share our weekly book reviews. Thank you.