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All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail

May 16, 2025

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We spent nine days traveling in France by rail from Bordeaux to Paris on board the SNCF, the French rail service. We visited Lyon, Dijon and Luxembourg before reaching our final destination of Paris. Train travel in Europe is an excellent way to go, but be aware! We made a few mistakes and learned a few things. Here is a recap of our nine day trip – All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail.

Bordeaux

After four weeks living in Bordeaux we packed up and left with regrets. We truly loved our time in that wonderful city and we will definitely return. The morning we left to begin our traveling in France by rail adventure, our train departed at 6:00am…so the Uber arrived at 5:00am.

Bordeaux to Lyon Six Hours

Since we travel for extended periods we are not light packers, and this is the main drawback of traveling by rail. Several of our trains, including this first one, we were seated in the upper deck. It’s not an easy task dragging bags up the narrow stairs. Additionally the luggage racks are not big. On our first trek there were several cyclists, but no bike racks. Some trains do offer racks for bicycles. But on this first train the majority of the luggage space for our first leg was taken by bikes, leaving us with minimal options for our luggage. First lesson, when traveling in France by rail pack light.

We watched the sun come up and Venus rising too out the window as we headed to Tours where we would change to a different train. I immediately realized how much more you see from a train than when traveling by car. Miles and miles of gorgeous farmland and tiny villages.

Traveling in France by Rail

But before reaching Tours we encountered our first problem about traveling in France by rail. Let me explain:

We had purchased a France-only Eurail pass via the Eurail app. The pass we selected (about $200 per person) was good for four days of train travel – with the understanding that, for the high-speed trains we planned to travel on, a separate purchase of a reserved seat was required. After purchasing the reserved seats through the SNCF app, we got a ticket showing the reserved seat. The mistake was in thinking that this was our complete ticket – it’s not! It only shows that we had paid for the seat reservation – an additional step of validating the Eurail pass (via the Eurail app, NOT the SNCF app) for travel on that date and train is necessary. So when the ticket inspector approached, we showed him our seat reservation tickets, but he also wanted to see the validated Eurail pass – we had the pass but not the validation – he was not happy – in fact he was very rude. He let us go, without really explaining what we had done wrong, or if we needed to do something more. We were left confused.

Lyon

Arriving in Lyon for two nights, we made the right decision to stay at a hotel (Campanile Lyon Centre) next to the Part-Dieu train station. Lyon has two train stations (Perrache and Part Dieu) so make sure you book near the correct one. The train station is also the metro station, so we did not need to drag our bags into the old city. We love a good Metro, and Lyon’s was great.

We had two days to explore Lyon, which really wasn’t enough time but we hit the ground running. The weather was excellent.

We spent most of our time in Vieux Lyon (Old Town), and we used GPS My City to follow two different walking tours on our own. Over the two days we walked ALOT.

Day One

The city sits at the confluence of two rivers (the Rhone and the Saone), thus many bridges, and there is also an upper city. On day one we started with the upper city. We took the funicular (included in your Metro ticket) up to the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral with outstanding views over the city below. We wandered down through the botanical gardens and then around to the Theatre Gallo Romaine. The Ancient Theatre of Fourvière is a Roman theatre in Lyon. It was built on the hill of Fourvière, which is located in the center of the Roman city. The theatre is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site protecting the historic center of Lyon.

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring shops and food in the old town. We tasted the famous Lyon bright red pralines and dipped into one of the famous chocolate shops and enjoyed delicious treats.

Day Two

We love using GPS My City and we combined several options to spend the entire day exploring Lyon. We started with one of the most beautiful food markets I have ever seen, Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. You could spend the entire day here.

Moving on to Place Bellacour, visiting the Little Prince statue and then Place de Cistines, Lyon’s stunning 200 year old theatre.

Place Bellacour is Europes largest public square

So Much to See

We did a lot of climbing on this day visiting Lyon Cathedral, Place de Jacobins, Place de Terreaux. La Tour Rose and the Montee des Chazeaux steps. Eventually we crossed the river on the beautiful Passarelle Saint-Vincent pedestrian bridge and using GPS My City we found the Fresque de Lyonaise, a mural depicting historic figures of Lyon. We enjoyed a lovely stroll along the river on a beautiful day.

It’s a scavenger hunt to find La Tour Rose, but worth it.

There is much more to Lyon, and we will need to return for another visit. After a quick refresh at the hotel, we headed back to Rue Saint-Jean, the main old town shopping street for dinner at the famous Chez Grand-Mere. An underground restaurant where I enjoyed a Lyonnaise dish called quennelles. It was delicious.

The city has many gathering places of beauty and heritage

Dijon

Next morning we had an easier departure time of 11:00am. We said our farewells to Lyon and boarded our next train.

Lyon to Dijon Four Hours

Alas we encountered another problem when the ticket steward came along. This time we had a woman who was sympathetic to us being novices, and she took a great deal of time to explain to us in detail what we had done wrong…something the first rude guy did not do. She was very helpful even though we had to pay 50 Euro due to our mistake….not having completed adding the specific date and train to our Eurail pass via the Eurail app. But we felt confident we finally had it right. She told us this is a common mistake…and the added costs can be much more than she charged us. So be aware!

Bonjour Dijon

Arriving in Dijon we were met by our American friends who live half time in Dijon, and the other half in the USA. It was a great treat to have them as our escort on our first day. It was about a 15 minute easy walk from the train station to old town. After checking in to the hotel (B&B Hotel Dijon Centre) located in a great location of the old town, we headed out to explore.

With only two days in this great city, it was nice to have “locals” to give us the scoop on the best things to see and do. We walked throughout the old town, as they shared with us their favorites and suggested things for us to do on our own on day two. We ended our day with our friends at a little hole-in-the-wall place they love called La Cave Se Rebiffe. Essentially a wine bar with a huge wine menu and a tiny food menu. We ate charcuterie, terrine, pasta and blood sausage with lots of great local wine from the Burgundy region.

Day Two

Day two we hit the ground running on our own. We headed first to Liberation Square for photos of the famous Ducal Palace. The Palace of the Dukes and Estates of Burgundy or Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne is a remarkably well-preserved architectural assemblage built in the 15th century. Today it houses the City Hall and the Beaux Arts Museum. We headed to the tourist office to obtain a 12 euro ticket to climb the Phillip the Good Tower later in the afternoon with a guide. That tower climb really was one of my favorite things in the city.

History, Food, Wine, Oh My

Next we went cathedral hopping – Dijon is a small village with an astonishing number of cathedrals. The Notre Dame Cathedral and its famous (somewhat hidden) owl sculpture, has become a symbol of this city.

We loved the Rue des Forges and the beautiful half timbered houses, many currently being lovingly restored and preserved. We made our way to the world famous Edmond Fallot Mustard shop. Fallot is the only remaining family-owned and -operated mustard factory in the Dijon region. I have been buying this brand of mustard every time I’m in France for the past twenty years. So delicious. I stocked up for gifts and for myself.

Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne

Since many businesses and restaurants are closed on Monday in France, we asked our local friends for a dinner suggestion. They said Parapluie (translation: umbrella). We made a reservation not knowing anything about this restaurant, and ended up being absolutely charmed by the chef’s choice menu, incredible wine selection, outstanding service and the unexpectedly reasonable price. I highly recommend.

We woke up early on our departure day and walked over the the Halles de Dijon. It had been closed on Monday so we wanted to see it briefly Tuesday morning before we left. One of the best food halles in France. Such a variety of local delicacies for sale. Next time I will spend an entire day there.

I could easily have spent another three or four days in this lovely, walkable, delicious medieval city. I hope to be back.

Luxembourg

Traveling in France by Rail

Our train to Luxembourg left about a half an hour late, which apparently is unusual when traveling in France by rail. But we eventually got on our way and luckily this time, no issues with our ticket! However, please note if you are traveling on the France-only Eurail pass, you need a separate ticket for the last leg from the final stop in France into Luxembourg. We did not change trains, but we did need two separate tickets (nobody checked, but we did not want to risk it!).

Dijon to Luxembourg 3 hours

The tiny country of Luxembourg gave us our 148th country, and what a lovely place it was. The only constitutional duchy in the world, it is often referred to as the Grand Duchy. A constitutional duchy is a territory ruled by a duke or duchess, but where the ruler’s powers are limited by a constitution. The duchy itself is the territory or domain, while the ruler’s title is the dukedom.

Luxembourg City is much larger than Dijon and we took a cab from the train station to our hotel (Hotel Vauban). I loved the location of our hotel right on Place Guillaume II, and perfectly situated in the old center. We were happy to be here for two nights.

Get Your Walking Shoes

Luxembourg City and the lower village of Gund are all quite walkable. But if you don’t want to go up and down the hills, take advantage of the FREE public transportation (tram and bus). We however enjoyed walking everywhere as we usually do.

There is a lot to enjoy in Luxembourg so we dropped our bags at the hotel and headed out to explore. We took our time leisurely walking through the beautiful medieval old town, before arriving at the Bock Casemates – a must-see when in Luxembourg. The Bock Casemates, a subterranean defense system made up of kilometers of tunnels, is today one of the most important visitor sites in Luxembourg. These underground galleries were initially carved in the 17th century, under Spanish rule, and subsequently twice extended.

Next we did a lovely walk down in the lower village known as Gund, stopping for a cold drink at the Good Weather Bar, only open in good weather! From the outdoor bar and on our walk we enjoyed picturesque views along the Alzette River. It truly looks like something out of a fairy tale. We made our way to the city’s oldest brewery, now a restaurant, called Big Beer and had a giant and delicious early dinner. Luxembourg has it’s own cuisine that leans a bit more German than French but also all it’s own. The pork knuckle was as big as my head. We continued our Gund walk to the Panoramic Elevator of the Pfaffenthal. A free elevator that takes people back up to the upper city with great views too.

Day Two

We woke up and looked out the window of our room to find a weekly market set up on the square in front of the hotel. So we started our day walking through and admiring all the fresh items for sale. Next we walked over the Pont Adolphe bridge and back over the La Passerelle bridge, in an effort see all angles of the beautiful city, before meeting our free walking tour.

A variety of old and modern bridges keep Luxembourg moving

Free Walkingt Tour

We do free (tip based) walking tours in many cities, and this two-plus hour tour was really exceptional. We visited the palace, the old fish market, Saint Michael’s Cathedral, Notre Dame Cathedral, the Monument of Remembrance and walked along the stunning ancient Chemin de la Corniche. You could easily visit all these on your own, but having a local guide to explain the history, give restaurant tips and insider information is always worth it.

After the tour we were starving so we headed to one of the city’s best restaurants for local cuisine, Brasserie du Cercle. I wanted to try the local dumpling dish called Kniddelen and Arne had a potato pancake with pork called Gromperekichelcher. Both were great. It was a hot day and the local Luxembourg beer was a perfect match.

After an afternoon of shopping for gifts and treats we had a rest at the hotel before dinner at Um Dierfgen. We were still full from lunch but we enjoyed a light dinner including the local seasonal specialty of white asparagus.

Luxembourg’s famous Chocolate House Nathanal Bonn

It was a whirlwind tour of this beautiful place and I am so glad we made the time to visit Luxembourg City. But now it’s time to head to Paris.

Paris

Of course we have visited Paris before (a few times) but we always look forward to seeing this beautiful city of lights. So back on board we go!

Luxembourg City to Paris Three Hours

Arriving in Paris at Gare de Est we decided to take an Uber rather than wrangle our bags on the Metro. But we used the Paris Metro the rest of our time and it is such a great metro system.

Since we have been to Paris many times, we decided to not do all the major attractions, except we really wanted to see the newly reopened Notre Dame.

Parisians enjoying a sunny May Day bank holiday

Our hotel, (the Hotel Le Compostelle), was in the Marais neighborhood, and we spent our first afternoon wandering and enjoying the sites and sounds and smells of the Marais. We were there on a holiday (May Day) and all the Parisians were out enjoying the fine spring weather. We then met our good friends who live in Paris at a restaurant called Acme and it was incredible! One of the best meals we have ever had in Paris. Multi course, chef’s choice dinner with an amazing wine pairing. We ate, sipped and talked well into the night, sitting outside on a warm night. Parfaite!

Day Two

Next morning we were up early (thank you coffee) because we had a reserved time to enter Notre Dame. I highly recommend getting a reserved time if you will be in Paris during the busy season. You can go on the Notre Dame website at 12:01 am two days before you want to visit and reserve a time. You can also wait in line, but the line can sometimes be hours long, so we recommend reserving a time. I loved seeing the new Notre Dame, it has been so lovingly restored and it is stunning. Don’t miss it.

We spent the rest of this day wandering and enjoying our favorite sites including Jardin de Luxembourg, and views of Tour Eiffel. I wanted to visit two iconic Paris shops for souvenirs – Marin Montagut and La Grand Epicerie de Paris. We also visited Rue Montorgueil, a new-to-us area of Paris with so many restaurants. Here we had a perfect Nicoise Salad and wine for lunch at Les Artizans. Back to the hotel for a rest and then out to an amazing dinner at Grand Coeur. Wow the beef tenderloin for two was incredible. Highly recommend.

Day Three

The forecast said possible late afternoon thunderstorms but the day dawned bright and blue. We took the train outside of the city to the stunning and new-to-us Parc de Sceaux – a hidden gem just outside of Paris. Here we met a group of women from a Facebook walking group I am in, and spent the next two hours talking to them (most expats from United Kingdom) and exploring this stunning park. Such a joy.

Back into the city to meet our friend again to explore the Carnavalet Museum, one Paris museum we had never visited. I heard great things about this museum, and we only had two hours which was not enough. We really enjoyed the historic presentation and will check it out again on our next visit.

Expect the Unexpected

Just as we were getting ready to leave the museum, we witnessed one of the most astonishing weather events of my life. In a matter of minutes the weather changed from blue sky and sun to black clouds, fierce wind and golf ball size hail. It hailed so hard and so much the hail piled up on the street like snow. Luckily we were not caught outside because people were injured and many cars and outdoor venues were damaged. Trees were down. It was wild and crazy.

Not only was it our final night in Paris, but it was our final night of this four month, seven country journey. We were tired and ready to head home. But we enjoyed one last Paris meal at Au Bourguignon du Marais This famous restaurant is a bit touristy, but it was close to our hotel and we had a good meal and also enjoyed visiting the two oldest houses in Paris just down the street. The medieval half timbered houses on the Rue Francois Miron are the only ones remaining in Paris, built in the 15th century.

Rue Francois Miron timbered houses still in use

Traveling in France by Rail

Five cities in nine days using the France Rail SNCF… was a fun experience. Easy and efficient the train also provides a relaxing trip, with WIFi and the most amazing views. I would definitely do it again, but with smaller suitcases. You should consider traveling in France by Rail.

We had a very early Uber ride to Charles de Gaulle for our flight back to the USA and our summer home in Washington State. Merci France. We loved our five plus weeks enjoying your culture, food, wine and history. Au Revoir. Abientot!

Thank you for reading my post All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail. Be sure to see our post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux and last week’s post What’s Next for My Fab Fifites Life. Over the next few weeks I will continue to have Wednesday book reviews, but will take a wee break from writing travel content. I promise to return soon.

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review Love and Other Consolation Prizes by Jamie Ford

May 14, 2025

Laureen

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Jamie Ford’s first novel The Hotel at the Corner of Bitter and Sweet was a wildly successful novel. Based on the Japanese experience during WWII and set in Seattle. This novel I am reviewing today, is also based in Seattle. It conjures so many memories for me growing up in the Pacific Northwest. Here is my Book Review Love and Other Consolation Prizes by Jamie Ford.

Jamie Ford

Wait. What? I went to Ford’s bio when writing this book review. And I learned he actually grew up in the town I currently reside – Port Orchard Washington. I was totally taken off-guard;

“Jamie Ford was born on July 9, 1968, in Eureka, California, but grew up in Ashland, Oregon, and Port Orchard and Seattle, Washington. His father, a Seattle native, is of Chinese ancestry, while Ford’s mother is of European descent.”

Okay, interesting little tidbit that makes this book even more personal. If you liked The Hotel At the Corner of Bitter and Sweet, I am sure you will enjoy Ford’s book Love and Other Consolation Prizes.

Worlds Fair

Love and Other Consolation Prizes explores the Asian experience in Seattle, beginning with the Great Alaska Yukon Exposition of 1909. The Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition (AYPE), was held in Seattle from June 1 to October 16, 1909. It followed on the heels of the 1905 Lewis and Clark Exposition in Portland, Oregon.

It’s here we meet young Ernest. He has already had a treacherous journey to the United States, lucky to still be alive. Taken under the wing of an evangelical women, Ernest is placed in a christian school. Then without his knowledge he is used as a “prize” in a raffle. Promoted as “a healthy boy to a good home” at the AYPE. The winning raffle ticket goes to a local well-known “madam” of a high class Seattle brothel.

Love

Ernest is very happy with his new position as a houseboy at the brothel. He feels at home for the first time in his life. He befriends the Madams daughter Maisie and “working girl” Fahn and finds himself in love with both girls.

Consolation Prizes

In 1962 the Seattle World’s Fair is opening and Ernest is now an old man. He lives in a tiny apartment alone. His wife lives with his daughter who cares for her ailing mother with dementia. Ernest carries secrets from his childhood he has never shared with anyon. Secrets that bubble to the surface with the opening of the worlds fair.

When his journalist daughter begins to ask questions for a news story, Ernest is thrown back in time. Confliced by memories of a remarkable life, a remarkable love, and a consolation prize unimaginable. Ernest must face his personal Love and Other Consolation Prizes.

Love and Other Consolation Prizes

This is an easy read full of emotion that looks at the Asian immigrant experience in the Seattle area. I enjoyed this book very much and should be a read by anyone growing up in Seattle.

*****Five stars for Love and Other Consolation Prizes by Jamie Ford.

See last week’s Book Review The Measure by Nikki Erlick. Thanks for reading my book review Love and Other Consolation Prizes by Jamie Ford.

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At Home

What’s Next for My Fab Fifties Life

May 9, 2025

Laureen

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I always get this question as we wind down any long adventure like the one we have been on. Four months and seven countries, we have really had one of our favorite travel experiences. But, it’s back to the USA now, so let me tell you what’s next for My Fab Fifties Life.

Silver Falls in Washington — Silver Falls, Mount Rainier National Park Washington State

Home to Washington State

Home Sweet Home. I love our tiny house we call Villa de Verano and I am looking forward to working in my yard. We have a couple small projects around the house this summer…in our never ending effort to upgrade this thirty-five year old home. I am especially excited to see my kids and delve into helping with wedding plans for the upcoming fall nuptials. It will be great to be home – we love summer in the Pacific Northwest.

Ten Days in British Columbia

If our Canadian friends will still allow us entry, we are headed to British Columbia for a road trip. We made these plans many months ago and well, things have gotten a bit crazy since. But it is our intention to visit Canada in July, our first time back in that beautiful country since before Covid.

Cross Country to Upstate New York

In late September we plan to drive cross country to the destination of our sons wedding. Along the way we hope to visit friends in Michigan and Illinois and do some fall leaf-peeping in Vermont and New Hampshire before the wedding. Possibly a quick visit to Maine before returning to the Pacific Northwest by late October.

Viking River Cruise on the Rhine

Jumping on the river cruise bandwagon, we will do our first river cruise the week after Thankgiving. We are not huge cruise fans (although we have had some good ones and will likely cruise again) but a river cruise is new to us. Many of our friends have enjoyed this activity so we will give it a try. Our seven day cruise starts in Basel Switzerland and goes up the Rhine to Nuremberg, with a Christmas Market focus.

And that will wrap 2025

We will finish the year at home for the holidays with our family. Departing January 1st we begin our next adventure. 2026 includes Cuba, Mexico, Jamaica or Panama as well as more of Europe and Scandinavia. This is all still developing so more on all of this later.

In the meantime, I have one more France blog post next week, then I plan to take a little break from posting for a few weeks. Time to enjoy my family, my friends and my home. Summer in the PNW is one of my favorite things in the world. Thanks for reading my post What’s Next for My Fab Fifties Life. Come back next week to read about our week of train travel in France. See last week’s post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux. Merci!

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review The Measure by Nikki Erlick

May 7, 2025

Laureen

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Surprising. A unique plot that brings the reader intimately into the lives of eight people, and the decisions each make that defines the measure of life. Here is my book review The Measure by Nikki Erlick.

An Ordinary Morning

It’s an ordinary morning like any other. Or is it? Around the world, whether you live in a high rise apartment, a slum dwelling, or a sailboat, each person on earth wakes to the same thing. A box. Some people will open the box. Some people never will. But inside the box is a piece of string…the measure of ones life.

Worldwide

Governments and scientists analyze the strings while society goes into a confused and frightened state of awareness. What can it mean? Do you want to know? Do you really want to know how long you will live? What would you do differently if you knew the answer to this question?

The Measure

Erlick’s debut novel looks at how society as a whole, and individuals, deal with a lifeline knowledge. The novel explores families, couples, politics and friendship and how these relationships change when you possess a knowledge never imagined before.

I enjoyed this story despite it’s lack of reality. What it brings is a magical essence to how people view their lives and the value each person puts on relationships and our individual existence. Both sad and uplifting The Measure is a perfect read for the times we are living in.

Book Review The Measure by Nikki Erlick

*****Five Stars for The Measure by Nikki Erlick. Thank you for reading my Book Review The Measure by Nikki Erlick. Read last week’s book review Next Year in Havanna by Chanel Cleeton.

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Europe Travel

My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France

May 2, 2025

Laureen

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Bordeaux. It’s the wine and a whole lot more. During our month-long visit to Bordeaux we rented a car for one week, giving us easy access to some of the beautiful villages outside the city. Even if you visit Bordeaux for only a few days, try to get outside the city. Here are my suggestions for My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France.

Take a Tour

You do not need a car to get outside of the city. There are many tour options, and the train also goes to many locations. If you are short on time, I recommend a day trip with Olala Tours. We joined a tour with Olala early in our visit to Bordeaux that took us to Saint Emilion and to the Margaux Medoc region. This was a great introduction to the nuances of Bordeaux regional wines. We loved the tiny medieval village of Saint Emilion so we chose to go back there later with the car.

In Margaux Medoc region on our Olala tour

Wine tasting in the Margaux Medoc region

My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France

We had the car for a week and we made five trips outside of the city during that time. We had beautiful weather on four of those days. Here are my recommendations;

Saint Emilion

Drive – It is about an hour drive to Saint Emilion, longer depending on traffic. We did not have any problem finding parking at 10am, but the lot was full after lunch.

Train – the train takes less time, but drops you about a mile from town. A walk or bike ride on to Saint Emilion is required.

What to do – Saint Emilion is one of the most famous wine regions in the world, with more than 800 wineries in the small appellation -you can’t possibly visit them all. Bordeaux’s famous red wines are made from a blend of grape varieties, with Merlot being the dominant variety, and also including Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines are known for their rich, full-bodied and complex character, with good aging potential.

Be sure to book AHEAD for the guided tour of the Monolithic underground church

Start your visit walking around the beautiful village for amazing views and shopping and coffee or lunch. Book in advance to take a tour of the amazing Monolithic church, only accessible by tour. No photos inside, but take my word for it – it is definitely worth it. If you don’t have a car, enjoy a tasting at one of the many wine shops in the village.

Tastings

With a car you must wander out into the miles and miles of vineyards and experience wine tasting with the wine masters of the Saint Emilion appellation. We visited three wineries and I recommend each one for a completely different experience; Chateau Chauvin (we visited with a tour), and on our own Haut Rocher and Chateau Saint Georges. Booking ahead is recommended.

Haut Rocher in the same family for 800 years

Saint Georges beautiful Chateau and gardens and massive storage facility

Lunch in the vineyard at Chateau Chavin with Olala Tours

There are many tours available from Bordeaux to Saint Emilion. This is an absolute not to miss day trip from Bordeaux on your own or with a tour.

Saint Emilion’s oldest timbered house and original stone gate

Arcachon and Dune du Pilat

Drive – Arcachon is less than an hour by car west to the Atlantic ocean. Plenty of parking available.

Train – The train from Bordeaux will drop you in the center of Arcachon, but to visit Dune du Pilat you need a car or tour.

What to do – We started our visit at the Les Halle des Arcachon to indulge in Arcachon’s world famous oysters. Oysters and seafood are two of the main attractions to the region. If you love them as we do you must visit. We also did a self guided walk along the beach promenade, and hiked up the hill to admire the 19th century mansions and the view back down to the town. If you are interested there are boat tours out to the small outer islands. We did not do this.

The Dune du Pilat is an amazing not to be missed sand dune about 40 minutes to the south of Arcachon. I was blown away by the size of this natural phenomenon that juts up from the sea, Europe’s tallest dune. Learn more about it here. It’s a fun hike, accessible by stairs if you don’t want to crawl up, and the view is worth it. I highly recommend visiting Dune du Pilat if you can. So fascinating.

Some people take off their shoes and walk up

Bergerac

Drive – a bit further afield is the beautiful medieval village of Bergerac. It took us an hour and half to arrive in Bergerac. We easily found paid parking

Train – the train takes about the same time as driving and it is an easy 1km walk from the station into the historic center.

What to do – Bergerac is in the Perigord region, outside of the Bordeaux region. We visited on a Monday, when many things are closed, but we found some shops and restaurants open for visitors. We did a self guided tour of the village, famous for the ancient timbered buildings, many currently being carefully restored and protected. I really enjoyed the beautiful river walk, and views across the Dordogne river. We sat outside at a tiny cafe (such a French thing to do) and had great food, wine and service.

Visit Bergerac for the ancient timbered buildings most still in use today

Feels like the French town in Beauty and the Beast

After lunch we drove about twenty minutes outside town to Chateau Monbazillac An ancient Chateau built in the 16th century with fascinating story you can learn on a self-guided immersive tour. The tour includes a glass of wine (this area is known for sweet whites) in their tasting room. It’s worth it for the views and gardens too. So peaceful.

Although it is farther, I recommend visiting Bergerac. The history was incredible. You could combine Bergerac and Saint Emilion but it would be a very long day.

Cape Ferret

Drive – headed west again Cape Ferret is a beautiful oyster producing region about an hour and twenty minutes drive from Bordeaux.

Train – really not an option

What to do – we were blessed with excellent weather (actually hot) and our Cape Ferret goal was to hike. We started at the end of the road (La Pointe du Cap Ferret) where there was a small parking lot and restroom. We did a loop walk along the ocean hiking through both wooded area and ocean beach for a total of five miles. The Cap Ferret lighthouse (‘phare’ in French) is a beacon in the distance, but was not really our destination although it is open for visitors. We sat on the beach just east of the lighthouse, ate the picnic we had brought from home, and watched many brave souls enjoy a brisk ocean swim. There are many small oyster restaurants as well as places to buy fresh oysters to take home. From this side of the bay you can look back across to Dune du Pilat (see above).

It would be possible to combine Cap Ferret with Arcachon if you had a car and were open to a very full day.

La Reole

Drive – We drove in a rain storm about an hour and twenty minutes. Part of the drive is on highway and part is through pretty little ancient villages and vineyards

Train – the train is faster, about 45 minutes, but drops you a few hundred meters outside of the village

What to do – unfortunately the day we went to La Reole we got caught in a total monsoon. Our goal was to visit the Saturday morning market (8am-1pm), touted as one of the best markets in all of France. We did visit, but in a deluge. There is a big parking lot just west of the market, which is located along the Dordogne river. We made our purchases from a butcher, poulet producer, and fruits and vegetables vendor. Across from the market there is a public elevator that takes you up to the medieval village. We managed to only see a little bit of this ancient town though, as it really was not possible in the storm. What we did see was beautiful though and you should give it a try.

Lots of shoppers despite the wet weather

Looking from the upper town down to the market and river

You could combine Le Reole with a Saint Emilion day or a visit to Cadillac.

And There is More

We did visit Margaux Medoc with the tour we took, but I wished we could have had another day exploring the wine region of Medoc because it is more than just Margaux. I also had hoped to visit Blaye and Cadillac…those will need to wait for our next visit.

Beautiful gardens at Chateau Saint Georges

There are many destinations within easy access from Bordeaux if you wanted to do an overnight trip. We did not, but I would definitely consider this on our next long visit to the region. Toulouse is about two and half hours by car. Cognac is about two hours by car. Spain’s Basque region is less than three hours by car. Everything about this region is historic, delicious and beautiful. I want to live here.

Southwest France

Southwest France and the Bordeaux region are not as well known as some of France’s other destinations, and that of course makes it more desirable for me. Less expensive, less crowded but still interesting, delicious and fun. I learned more about wine during our visit to Bordeaux than I had in all my life. Everyday was fascinating. It’s time to consider the Nouvelle Acquitane region of France for your next travel adventure. J’ai adoré. A bientôt Bordeaux. Merci!

Please note -. Road Construction and train services change frequently. Please do your research for the most current information.

Thank you for reading my post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France. See last week’s post Discover Bordeaux France and Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City here.

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton

April 30, 2025

Laureen

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Part history lesson, part love story and part mystery, Next Year in Havana will keep you engaged. I learned some great history in this story, that will help me ironically when I visit Havana next year. Here is my book review Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton.

Revolution

Cleeton herself is a descendant of those who fled Cuba during the revolution, much like her characters in Next Year in Havana. She writes with great insight how difficult the decision was for families who fled Castro’s Cuba in the early 1960’s.

The story is told in alternating timelines. 1958 Cuba we meet Cuban heiress Elisa Perez. Born to wealth and power she is young and naive about politics and revolution. Until Elisa meets and falls in love with a revolutionary. Their love affair will change the projection of Elisa’s life.

Miami 2017, we meet Marisol Ferrera. Following her beloved grandmother’s death, Marisol is challenged by her grandmother posthumously, to bring her remains to Cuba to be scattered. No one in Marisol’s family has returned to Cuba since they fled. How can Marisol manage this final request of her beloved grandmother Elisa.

Sixty Years

Despite Fidel’s recent death, Marisol arrives in Havana to find a vastly different Cuba than the one her grandmother left sixty years before. She is welcomed by her grandmother’s childhood friend who gives her a box of memories and letters Elisa had left behind. Marisol will begin a dangerous scavenger hunt after reading the letters, to learn answers to secrets of Elisa’s life she took to the grave.

Book Review Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton

Though somewhat predictable in the story line and plot, I enjoyed reading this novel. This is one of many books with similar themes by Cleeton. I was intrigued by the family saga and both present and past examples of life as a Cuban woman. I can’t wait for my visit to Cuba next year and I hope to read more about it in the months ahead.

****Four stars for Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton

Thank you for reading my book review Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton. See last week’s book review The Frozen River by Ariel Lawhon.

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Europe Travel

Discover Bordeaux France

It’s More Than Just Wine

April 25, 2025

Laureen

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Although I was able to visit Bordeaux for a long leisurely stay, you can really enjoy this city with only a few days. Bordeaux has a surprising food scene (read last week’s blog post Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City), as well as culture, arts, nature and history. It is still relatively under the radar as far as destinations in France, and I fell completely in love with it. Come with me to Discover Bordeaux France.

From the Cite du Vin viewing the Pont Jacques Chaban Delmas Bridge through my wine

Walkable

One of the best things about this incredible city is how walkable it is. There is a tram, inexpensive and convenient, but during our month long stay we walked and walked. Our Airbnb was exactly one mile to the iconic Saint Andre and the start of the old city. Bordeaux’s historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is full of marvelous limestone architecture dating back through the centuries.

Cailhau Gate entrance to Old Town Bordeaux

Though Neanderthal findings of the region date back 20,000 years, the city itself was founded in the 12th century. The region has a remarkable history under French and English rule. Read about it here.

When visiting any new city, I always advise you do a walking tour – especially if you have a short amount of time. A walking tour will orient you, give you great historic insight as well as recommendations on how to spend your time. We loved our tour with Free Bordeaux Walking Tours.

Looking at historic Bordeaux from across the Garonne

We also loved our Food and Wine Tour with Bordeaux Bites. I highly recommend this tour for getting an overview of the foods of Bordeaux and France. Our guide Alex was a wealth of information and we loved all the tasty treats and wine we had on our tour. Read my post from last week all about the foods of the city; Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

Alex from Bordeaux Bites was an amazing guide

The River

The Garonne is the focus of Bordeaux both today and historically. The river is where wine was transported for centuries, and still today the port is active for river cruises, tour boats and pleasure boats. Because Bordeaux is situated just 100km from the sea, the Garonne River has a surprising tidal change, and due to that tidal change, and the clay river floor, the water appears to be brown. This is not pollution, and locals like to refer to it as caramel.

Pont de Pierre built in 1860 was the first bridge to cross the Garonne River at Bordeaux

We enjoyed an afternoon boat ride with Yacht Bordeaux which we booked through Get Your Guide. It was informative and beautiful. From the water it’s a expansive view back to the city, and our guide who spoke both in French and English delighted us with tidbits of the city.

We enjoyed learning about the history and the river on our boat tour

Be sure to spend some time along the Garonne promenade area, a literal highway for cyclists and pedestrians. Walk and enjoy seeing the river-cruise boats in port, the historic view of the UNESCO Old City, or dine at one of the many restaurants near the Cite du Vin. It’s a lovely and popular place with both visitors and locals.

Miroir d’eau is one of the beautiful attractions along the Garonne promenade

Wine (duh)

Bordeaux lives and breathes wine. It is what truly defines both the city and the region. Bordeaux wine production began sometime after 43 AD, during the Roman occupation of Gaul, when the Romans established vineyards to cultivate wine for the soldiers. However, it is only in 71 AD that Pliny the Elder recorded the first real evidence of vineyards in Bordeaux. Wines of Bordeaux are the second oldest in France, with Provence taking the lead.

Although white wine is certainly available, Bordeaux IS red wine. The reds are medium- to full-bodied with bold aromas of black currant, plums and an earthiness like smelling wet soil or pencil lead. Depending on the quality, vintage and what region within Bordeaux the wine is from, fruit flavors range from more tart fruit to sweeter ripe fruit.

When Thomas Jefferson was in France (before he was President) his love of Bordeaux wines helped bring attention to the region and its fine wine.

Enjoying a glass of wine from on top the Cite du Vin

New to Wine? Pas de Soucis (do not worry)

In next week’s blog post I’ll talk about visiting vineyards and villages outside of the city, possible with a tour or on your own. For a one day tour I recommend Olala tours. Consider the full day tour of Saint Emilion and Medoc. But if you have limited time here are my wine suggestions;

It’s easy to learn about wine in Bordeaux. It’s what they do.

La Cite de Vin – visit Bordeaux’s wine museum, in a unique but somewhat controversial architectural building on the river Garonne. City of Wine is a bit expensive ($35 Euro) but if you want to learn about history of the region, wine and also enjoy some wine, be sure and add this to your visit.

Learning about the different aromas of wine

Wine Shops – Bordeaux is home to dozens of wine shops, many also serving as tasting rooms. Everywhere we visited the staff was helpful, unpretentious and spoke English. Our favorite was L’Indentant. Even if you don’t plan to buy wine, you must visit L’Indentant to see the spiral wine staircase. Stunning.

Wine Bars – there are nearly as many wine bars in Bordeaux as Wine shops…sometime they are combined. If you just want to try a glass or two with some nibbles, a wine bar is a great option. The absolute best wine bar in Bordeaux is Bar a Vin. It is affordable, service is helpful and it is in a beautiful space.

Be sure to visit L’Intendant Grand Bordeaux

Wine Tasting – many, many options in the city for tasting, but if you want something really special sign up to visit La Pied a Terre. This humble shop near the Opera House is run by two enthusiastic and knowledgeable brothers. During the two-hour class we learned so much great information about local and world wines, tasted three wines and had a lot of fun. Highly recommend.

Cathedrals

Bordeaux is home to many beautiful cathedrals. As in most European cities, cathedrals are open to visitors all day, even during services. We are not Catholic, but we always make a point to step into any cathedral or basilica when traveling. And since Bordeaux is so walkable, we found ourselves in some beautiful churches. GPS My City has a Cathedral walking tour I recommend, as well as an architecture tour you should try.

Saint Andre was originally constructed in the eleventh century

Saint Michel Basilica was built in the 14th century

Arts and Culture

Bordeaux is home to the beautiful Grand Theatre de Opera with many performances. We make a point in many cities to visit the historic theaters when possible, and we did here. Our visit was for a modern dance performance which was excellent. We really enjoyed seeing the beautiful historic architecture of this building built in 1780.

Beautiful Bordeaux Opera House Grand Theater

If you have time, Bordeaux has many art museums, history museums and maritime museums. See the list here.

Nature

If you have enough time to take a day and get out into nature close to the city, we have two recommendations for you. On the right bank of the Garonne, a paved trail runs the entire way from Saint Jean bridge to Jacques Chaban-Delmas bridge, with beautiful trees, flowers and views back across the river to the historic old town. It’s a flat, easy and beautiful walk.

Many things to admire on a walk on the right side of the river

Even better, take the C tram to Parc des Expositions (the end of the line), then walk about a kilometer to Reserve Ecologique des Barails. We spent half a day here enjoying the beautiful spring blooms and bird watching. We had a picnic and nearly had the entire park to ourselves.

Loved the quiet Reserve Ecologique des Barails

Markets

Everyday somewhere in the city is a market. Near Saint Andre, the center of the old town, a market seems to happen everyday. We perused a book market, a vintage market and a fresh produce and cheese market.

On Thursday and Sunday along the Garonne promenade a really nice market brings fish mongers, meat vendors, produce and cheese vendors to the people. This is a popular place to eat oysters and drink wine with friends, especially on Sunday.

Marche de Capucins is the main market in Bordeaux, and it lies on the far south end of the old city, just past the beautiful Saint Michel Basilica. If you go, be sure to visit in the morning to see the local producers at work. It’s also a great place to grab lunch.

Bon Appetit

I’ll mention again my blog post from last week Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City – a few amazing suggestions. If you have time and want to delve deeper into the cuisine of the region, book a cooking class with Chef Daniel and Erica at The Gastronome Bordeaux. When I return to Bordeaux (and I will) I want to take their immersive class. You will learn a lot from David and Erica.

Discover Bordeaux France

Dare I say I liked it more than Paris? It’s less expensive, less crowded and unpretentious – all things we love. The food, wine, history, shopping and people are amazing. I am so glad to Discover Bordeaux France. I think I could live here. Get beautiful Bordeaux on your travel list soon – before others Discover Bordeaux France.

Come back next week for my post on Day Trips from Bordeaux France.

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