Summer was coming to an end. I needed a getaway, after five months of recuperating from total knee replacement. So we packed up the car and headed from our home in Port Orchard Washington across the state to Walla Walla. I hadn’t visited Walla Walla in more than ten years. So it was definitely time. Time for a Walla Walla Washington to Hood River Oregon Road Trip.
Port Orchard to Walla Walla
Driving from our home in Port Orchard on the west side of Washington State, we traveled over Interstate 90 to Ellensburg. Here you leave I-90 to head south to Yakima. The quickest route is along Interstate 82. But we decided to take our time and instead enjoyed the old highway 821 known as Canyon Road. It winds along the Yakima River and through fertile farmland and beautiful canyons. The air was twinged with smoke from wildfires burning across the state on this hot summer day. It made for an eerie pink hue in the sky.
Arriving in the farming community of Yakima it was lunch time. So we headed to the famous local drive-in known as Miner’s. Located in the small town of Union Gap just south of Yakima proper, Miner’s has been serving up GIANT burgers and much more since 1948. It’s an institution in Yakima for both locals and visitors alike. I recommend sharing a burger. Huge and delicious.
Continuing on Interstate 82 south and east through the Tri Cities we hopped on Hwy 12 to continue on into Walla Walla.
History of Walla Walla
The City of Walla Walla, located in Southeastern Washington, is one of the oldest cities in the state. The area surrounding the city, the Walla Walla Valley, has been the scene of a long and diverse history that includes native North Americans, explorers Meriwether Lewis (1774-1809) and William Clark (1770-1838), fur traders, missionaries Marcus (1802-1847) and Narcissa (1808-1847) Whitman, soldiers, gold prospectors, pioneers, and others.
The town of Walla Walla developed around the U.S. military Fort Walla Walla in the late 1850s. It was named and platted in 1859, and incorporated and named the seat of Walla Walla County in 1862. A gold rush in the early 1860s, followed by a growing agricultural industry, made Walla Walla the largest city in Washington Territory by 1880. Since the late nineteenth century, the City of Walla Walla has been the center of a region known for its agricultural products, including wheat, barley, corn, potatoes, asparagus, peas, soft fruit, onions, and grapes. Following the establishment of the Walla Walla Valley as a unique American Viticultural Area in 1984, the city has been at the center of a burgeoning premium wine industry. With a population of 30,900 (as of 2007), Walla Walla is the largest city in Walla Walla County. HistoryLink.org
Walla Walla Today
Today Walla Walla is a beautiful town and a destination for wine lovers and sports enthusiasts. It is also home to some amazing dining options as well as parks, golf, arts and culture.
We only managed to visit three of the region’s more than 130 wineries. So I guess we really will need to visit again. Our first stop was as we came into the city on day one. We stopped at Woodward Canyon just as we were coming into town. This small boutique winery had a quiet little tasting room. We sat outside in the garden and enjoyed the peaceful experience. L’Ecole winery is right next door and also worth a stop, as is Cougar Crest winery just down the way.
Where We Stayed
Continuing on into Walla Walla we arrived at our lodging. Our home for two nights was the Winemaker’s Suite. Not a hotel or exactly a bed and breakfast. Rather the top floor (suite) of a historic Walla Walla home built in 1906, with the homeowner living downstairs. It was so perfectly appointed and comfortable and included a simple continental breakfast of yogurt, fruit, coffee and hard boiled eggs. We ate our breakfast each morning in the beautiful backyard. A perfect location as well for getting to parks and historic downtown Walla Walla.
After settling in to our beautiful suite we took a walk through the historic core and made a few purchases before heading to our dinner reservation. I do recommend making reservations. Our dinner at Salted Mill was surprisingly busy on a Monday night. This very popular spot in a former mill was outstanding in both food and service. Highly recommend.
Walla Walla Day Two
Temperatures were gonna soar on our second day in Walla Walla, slated to be high 90’s Fahrenheit. That, combined with the continued light smoke in the air, had us considering our options. But we decided to get out early and do some light hiking before it got too hot.
Parks
Just a few blocks from our lodging is the amazing Pioneer Park. This lovely park includes a nice rose garden, dozens of century old trees as well as a very interesting aviary of birds from around the world. Such a surprise. We really enjoyed it.
For a little more exercise we headed to Bennington Lake – a reservoir just outside of town. Temperatures were rising but we did the trail around the lake, about four miles total. It gave us a good workout as well as an opportunity to spot some new-to-us birds.
After all that activity we were ready for lunch and more wine. We had made a reservation ahead of time to do a wine tasting and enjoy lunch at the combined tasting room of Waterbrook Winery and Canoe Ridge Winery. Lunch was delicious on the outdoor patio with a view of the bird estuary. And the wine was also delicious. Back in town we stopped in to admire the historic and beautiful Marcus Whitman Hotel built in 1928 and known as the Grand Dame of the Palouse. Then it was back to our suite for a rest and a shower before dinner.
The final night of our brief visit to Walla Walla we enjoyed another outstanding meal, this time at Hattaway’s on Alder. I recommend a reservation here as well, it is very popular and for good reason. Definitely try the deviled eggs. Everything was delicious and the service was exceptional too.
Walla Walla to Hood River
Waking up in Walla Walla on day three of our road trip the smoke had gotten much heavier as fires in Spokane about 120 miles away were taking a terrible toll. After breakfast we began the 180 mile drive to Hood River Oregon along the Columbia River Gorge.
Our original plan was to hike up the butte at Crow Butte State Park. But the combination of heat and smoke had us thinking otherwise. We did stop at Crow Butte, a lovely US Army Corps of Engineers park right on the river. Instead of a strenuous hike we enjoyed a short walk.
Plan B – we headed instead back downriver to visit Maryhill Winery. A beautiful spot overlooking the river, we enjoyed a wine flight and a small cup of soup to hold us until dinner.
History of Hood River
The area was inhabited by Native Americans when the Lewis and Clark expedition passed through on October 29, 1805. Here they found a camp site called “Waucoma,” or “place of big trees.” The camp was located near what became known as the Dog River and its confluence with the Columbia River. Later, Mrs. Nathaniel (Mary) Coe, a well-known pioneer resident of the valley, objected to the name Dog River and succeeded in changing the name to Hood River. The name Hood River appears on a map as early as 1856. Originally a part of Wasco County, Hood River County gained its political separation on June 23, 1908, and its boundaries have remained unchanged to the present time.
Nathaniel and Mary Coe were the original owners of a 319-acre government land grant bordered on the east by (what is now) Front Street, on the north by the Columbia River, on the west by Thirteenth Street, and on the south by May Street. In 1854 the Nathaniel Coe family filed a land claim on acreage now part of the City of Hood River. They were soon followed by the William Jenkins family and the Benson family. Coe was one of the first to plant fruit trees in the Hood River Valley.
Apple orchards flourished in this rich valley from 1890 to 1920, and Hood River became famous for its apples. In 1919 many apple trees were struck by a killing freeze. Farmers replaced the apple trees with pear trees, and now Hood River county leads the world in Anjou Pear production. City of Hood River
Hood River Today
With a population of 8500, the small town of Hood River packs a big punch. With a historic downtown as well as a new, beautifully designed waterfront pedestrian friendly area the town has a lot to offer. Windsurfing, fishing, sailing, golf and enjoying the bounty of the agricultural region – Hood River is a hidden gem less than an hour from Portland.
Where We Stayed
Our reason for coming to Hood River was to stay at the historic Columbia Gorge Hotel and Spa. I had admired this property from the freeway as I drove by on several occasions and always wanted to visit. The hotel, built by lumber baron Simon Benson in 1921 in its heyday attracted international visitors and Hollywood types.
Alas the property today could use a little TLC. Rooms were comfortable and staff was great but only the front garden is cared for and everything else around the property was dead or nearly. That was disappointing. As was the cleanliness of the outside bar area – much in need of a pressure washer.
Unique to the hotel is the original century old elevator, operated with a hand crank by hotel staff. Being on the third floor we needed the elevator several times, and you need to wait for the front desk staff to come take you up or down.
After settling in to our room we headed out to visit some of the area’s multiple microbreweries. Hood River is home to the more famous Full Sail Ale and Hood River Brewing. But we chose to visit a lesser known microbrew pub called Double Mountain. A very cute spot with great beer and service in the heart of the historic town.
For dinner we headed to the new waterfront area and a microbrewery and restaurant called pFriem Family Brewers. Once again amazing service, and delicious food and beer. It had been a great day.
Hood River Day Two
Very smoky. The worst yet. Smoke blowing in from wildfires in both Washington and Oregon. We decided to proceed as planned and bail if needed.
On the recommendation of a friend, we headed to River Daze Cafe for breakfast. Arne had Avocado Toast and I had a giant Bacon Waffle. Wow. Too much food. But yummy. To work off that meal we took a stroll along the riverfront walk. The air was so still, unusual for Hood River, and the smoke was hanging low.
Next we headed to Hood River Golf Club, where we had made a tee time in advance for nine holes. We enjoyed our game, but noticed how thirsty the smoky air was making us. It was hot too, pushing 90 by the time we finished.
Before heading back to the hotel we made a brief stop at Packer Orchards, a wonderful local farm stand and bakery. So many delicious things to choose from. We stocked up on a few items to take home. But now it was time to head back to the hotel and take a break from the smoky skies.
For dinner we stayed at the hotel, booking ahead at their fine dining restaurant Simon’s. Nice view of the river, and the restaurant was surprisingly busy. I tried one of their signature dishes, the French Onion Soup, as well as steamed clams, while Arne had one of his favorites, Osso Bucco.
Hood River to Port Orchard
Waking up on day five to improving smoke levels, and lots of sunshine trying to burn through the haze. We headed out early, needing to get home for an appointment, and expecting the drive to take about four hours. Traffic was good, and we took the time to enjoy the Historic Hwy 30 also known as the Columbia River Scenic Highway. The old highway runs along the river and under the historic Bridge of the Gods. Continuing it ascends over the mountain. Along this route is the famous (and usually crowded) Multnomah Falls, as well as several other incredible waterfalls and vistas to enjoy.
Due to its popularity, Multnomah Falls now requires a timed entry ticket so plan ahead because it is worth it – one of Oregon’s top sites. We have visited Multnomah before, so on this day we decided to check one of the other falls, Bridal Veil. This stop along the historic highway offers a short hike to the falls, as well as several scenic viewpoints of the river.
Before returning to the freeway and making the trip home, we stopped for a brief photo opportunity at the Vista House, the highest point on historic Hwy 30. I marveled at the steep ascent and descent to this lookout, having ridden my bike up this mountain about a decade ago. That experience called Ride Around Washington is to this day, one of my favorite things I ever did. Life-changing six days across the beautiful State of Washington. Read about that amazing experience here.
Walla Walla Washington to Hood River Oregon Road Trip
We came, we saw, we enjoyed. We also drank wine and had some amazing dining experiences. This brief little getaway put wind back in our sails as we returned home ready to tackle our final two weeks before embarking again on international travel. After five months of recuperating, I am ready.
Thank you for reading my post Walla Walla Washington to Hood River Oregon Road Trip. Next week I will share our upcoming itinerary for 103 Days of Travel. It’s time to go!
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