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The Great Circle

    Asia & Oceania Travel  --  Island Life

    Seven Things To Do On Mo’orea, French Polynesia

    South Pacific Paradise

    Now enjoying our sixth week in French Polynesia, we are smitten with the island of Mo’orea. Just a 30 minute ferry crossing from Tahiti and the country’s main city of Papeete, Mo’orea is convenient and has everything we look for in a relaxing destination. We like it way more than Bora Bora and hope to come here again. Here are our favorite seven things to do on Mo’orea French Polynesia.

    The ferry terminal on Mo’orea

    Why Mo’orea?

    We originally chose Mo’orea because we found a wonderful Airbnb. Arriving with high hopes it would be as good as the reviews and photos – we were not been disappointed. It’s very comfortable, affordable, waterfront, and a great location. Another bonus is our host Maea is one of the best hosts we have ever had in our 102 Airbnb’s around the world – yes I said 102!! Perhaps it’s time to update this post Our Favorite Airbnb’s Around the World.

    Our host Maea teaching us how to open coconuts
    Our beach side Bungalow

    Mo’orea might not get the same marketing push that Bora Bora gets, but we think we like it better…at least for us. We enjoy a quiet place with a less touristy vibe. Mo’orea has that, especially during the shoulder season. Authentic ambiance is another thing we look for, and Mo’orea has that too. Our experience here has been incredible.

    The beach we stayed on from the air

    Seven Things To Do On Mo’orea, French Polynesia

    Unless you are staying only for a couple days in a resort (we recommend longer) you need to have a car on Mo’orea. Public transportation is non-existent. There are a few taxis and of course tours, but having your own wheels will make all of the suggestions below accessible. It’s worth the expense.

    So here are our seven things to do on Mo’orea, French Polynesia. In no particular order;

    1. Snorkel

    Snorkleing at Temae Beach
    Snorkleing from the kayak

    There are many snorkel options on the island. Mo’orea is surrounded by a reef that creates a shallow and beautiful lagoon nearly the entire circumference of the island. You can take a snorkel tour in a kayak, small boat, large group tour with lunch or an outrigger. Or you can bring or buy your own snorkel and fins (what we did) and snorkel from any public beach on the island. You will see remarkably beautiful coral of all shapes, sizes and colors. Of course you will see a fascinating collection of sea life including rays, black tip sharks and a rainbow of tropical fish. Want to see more of our favorite Snorkeling Around the World? Click Here.

    2. Coco Beach

    Coco Beach
    Coco Beach

    Coco Beach is a fun day trip, even though we had better snorkeling elsewhere. You need to call ahead for a reservation. A small boat will meet you at the parking area and ferry you over to the tiny island. Then you will be shown to your outdoor table, which is yours for the day. Have a tropical drink, then enjoy the beautiful warm water before feasting on delicious lunch. Last boat back is at 3:30pm. It makes for a wonderful day. Total for our day was $116.

    3. Tahiti Street Food Tour

    Poison Cru
    With our guide Haimata

    One of the first things we did our first week on the island was to take a tour with Tahiti Food Tours. It’s always a good way to learn about local cuisine. Our tour included stops at 7 local “snacks” (Tahitian Fast Food or Street Food) as well as a distillery. This tour was delicious and opened our eyes to some of the local specialties. Our local guide was knowledgeable, enthusiastic and funny. Cost per person $120USD

    4. Food and CookLab Cooking School

    Wrapping the Po’e in banana leaves
    Making the Manioc Chips

    Another thing we do in many of our travel destinations is take a cooking class. Thanks to our guide on the food tour (above) we learned about the Food and CookLab, a sustainable and organic cooking school on the island. We took their Polynesian Foods cooking class where we learned to make poisson cru, manioc chips, po’e – a plantain pudding cooked in banana leaf (also a sweet potato version), breadfruit and hibiscus leaf wrapped coconut bread. Cost per person $75USD lunch included.

    Learning three ways to use tuna

    I enjoyed the class so much I signed up for a second class, presented by a local chef on the island. In this second class we took beautiful local tuna and oyster muscles and created multiple dishes including gravlax, rillettes and fume (smoked fish). $125 USD lunch included as well as doggy bags of delicious fish to take home.

    5. Tiki Village

    Tiki Village performance
    The feast at Tiki Village

    If you have been to a luau in Hawaii, Tiki Village is the Polynesian version. The entertainment is different than Hawaii, as of course it focuses on the Tahitian dress, music and lore. The food is cooked in a pit including a whole pig but includes breadfruit, po’e (see above), poisson cru and local fish. The meal also included some international dishes from the French influence including pate, salads and dessert. The sunset view was amazing. Cost $110USD

    6. Hiking

    The Airport Hike
    On top of Magic Mountain

    Airport/Golf Course Hike – Starting from Temae beach you can hike the flat sandy road along the tiny Mo’orea Airport and the Mo’orea Golf Course and back. Round trip about three miles. Easy.

    Three Coconuts – Starting at the Belvedere Lookout this ascent is gradual except for the final mile. But the beautiful view is definitely worth it. Wear proper shoes. Total round trip 3.5 miles. Difficult.

    Three Coconuts Hike
    The Top at Three Coconuts

    Magic Mountain – most of the tours drive up to the view point on Magic Mountain but if you want a good work out then you can walk up. It’s steep but the road is in fairly good condition and the view is spectacular. Park at the fruit stand at the bottom for $2. When you come back have a fruit smoothie. Very nice lady here. Total round trip less than 2 miles but 700+ feet vertical. Moderate.

    Waterfall Hike – there wasn’t much water in the waterfall when we visited, but it was a good sweaty work out nonetheless. This was the most junglesque hike we did, beautiful deep jungle as we trekked a sometimes rough trail to the waterfall. To find this hike go just past the hospital in Afareietu and turn into a small road and park near the Veterans Memorial. Walk up the dirt road and keep left, it becomes the trail. 3 miles round trip and moderate.

    The view from Post Office hike
    Waterfall

    Post Office – from the right side as you face the tiny yellow post office building at the Temae beach turnoff, there is a hidden trail that takes you up to the radio towers and then scoots up to a peak. This trail is very steep. Bring lots of water. The view is amazing. You can go back down the way you came or continue on the trail through a thickly forested area where the trail is sometimes difficult to find. Watch for flags tied to trees to keep to the trail. Total distance 2 miles if you head back down the way you came up; 4.5 miles if you complete the loop. Very difficult.

    Pineapple Fields – From Pao Pao follow the “Route de Ananas” road inland until it becomes dirt. Park and walk staying to the right to the beautiful pineapple fields. Pineapple is a local cash crop Mo’orea is known for. The tiny and sweet little golden fruits are delicious. On this hike you can see the beautiful plants both in flower and in fruit. You can make this hike short (about 1 mile) or longer (above 3 miles). Easy.

    7. Drive Around the Island

    It’s 30 miles or 48 km around the island on the “main” road. This is bigger than the island of Praslin we stayed on in the Seychelle Islands and smaller than our favorite Hawaiian island of Maui. It definitely makes my list now of my favorite islands around the world.

    There are a few side roads, like the one to the Belvedere and to the Pineapple Fields. But mostly it’s the main road. Locals drive pretty fast and crazy and there are bicycles, pedestrians and lots of dogs. But a tour around the island is a must with stops along the way.

    This map shows the island and the main road. Starting at the ferry terminal in Vaiare follow the road counter clockwise. Teavara is the village our bungalow is. Continue up the hill to a spectacular viewpoint called Toatea, down the hill to the entrance to one of our favorite beaches Temae (also the location of the Airport Hike above). Continue around through the main town of Maharepa (don’t blink you’ll miss it) and to the first bay called Cook’s Bay. The village of PaoPao has some tiny eateries and a fabulous view of Rotui Mountain. Beautiful spot here includes a historic church. Pao Pao is also where you turn to the Pineapple Route. Continue on you’ll come to another gorgeous beach called Ta’ahiamanu – my favorite beach on the island. Plenty of parking and a great snorkel spot.

    Ta’ahiamanu Beach
    Toatea Viewpoint

    Next you’ll arrive at the head of Opunohu Bay. This is where you turn to the Belvedere lookout and hikes as well as Magic Mountain. As you round the Westside of the island it is quieter and more rural. There is a beautiful public beach here at Hauru and this is also the location of Coco Beach (above). Continue further to the location of Tiki Village (above) and a couple more beautiful historic churches at Haapiti.

    At Afareaitu is the start of the waterfall hike (above) and is also home to the island’s administrative center and hospital. Finish your circle tour back at Vaiare. Along the way there are plenty of local “snack” shops, food trucks and restaurants as well as a hand full of souvenir shops and pearl shops and locals selling goods and fruit along the roadside. It’s a beautiful drive and a beautiful island. Take your time and enjoy.

    Several historic churches around the island
    Shopping options abound

    Fresh Food Glorious Food

    There are some surprisingly good places to eat on this tiny island, and I am putting together a separate blog post about that for next week. So you’re gonna want to check back about that. Meanwhile, check out our latest Tasty Tuesday video on our YouTube channel. Your introduction to Poisson Cru the national dish of Polynesia – we try to eat it everyday. It’s amazing, healthy and very local.

    Beautiful Mo’orea

    Thanks for following along on our Seven Things to do on Mo’orea, French Polynesia tour. Please come back next week for more about Mo’orea.

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    See last week’s blog post Bora Bora on a Budget.

    Europe Travel  --  Island Life

    Iceland by the Ring Road

    Nine Days Around the Island

    Location: Iceland

    Have you ever considered visiting Iceland? Well, why not? Seriously, it was on our travel list for a long time, but we never managed to get there for more than a quick layover. That is until last month when we spent two weeks in this surprising island nation, about the size of Washington State. So join me as we explore Iceland by the Ring Road.

    Kirkjufell Iceland
    Kirkjufell Mountain

    This is the first of three blogs I plan to write about our fun trip to Iceland. Today I’m going to tell you about touring remarkable Iceland by the Ring Road, (Route 1) that circumnavigates this arctic island. Next week I’ll talk about visiting Reykjavik and after that I’ll write about the Icelandic cuisine. I hope to inspire everyone to go see Iceland.

    Iceland Sheep
    There are three times more sheep in Iceland than people

    Iceland by the Ring Road

    But first, Iceland by the Ring Road – after three days in Reykjavik we picked up our camper van from KuKu Caravans. We rented the medium size camper van. I knew I would not be happy in the small size, which is basically a regular soccer mom van converted with a bed. Our KuKu was larger, about 17 feet long with a tiny kitchen and a table that folded down into a bed. We were able to stand up in the van, which was really important for us. It wasn’t very comfortable but we made do. It did not have a bathroom. You see some people on the road with small RV’s and many locals have trailers. But the self-drive camper van is very popular. Our van cost about $200 per day. Diesel runs about $7 a gallon.

    Camper Van in Iceland
    Our camper van from Kuku

    Pros and Cons

    Pro’s and Con’s – If I did it again I’d spend more time looking at the total cost of the camper van including petrol and campground fees (around $30 a night for two people) and doing some comparative research to renting a car and staying in a hotel along the Ring Road. In hindsight I don’t think the hotel/car option would have been all that much more. However, we did save money cooking in the camper van, which we did 7 of the 9 days.

    Another thing I would do differently is stay a few extra days in Reykjavik and do the Golden Circle and the Snaefellnes Peninsula as day trips from Reykjavik with a car. This way you could do the Ring Road in 6 to 7 days. Although this would mean renting a car to do the day trips, but for what we paid for our transfer from the airport ($150!) it would have been worth it.

    Snaefellnes Peninsula
    Bucolic views

    Also consider your clothing, no matter what time of year, nights are chilly. I slept in my fleece lined leggings or my silk long underwear each night. Some nights I even wore a stocking cap to bed. The camper van does have heat, but temps in the 30’s Fahrenheit overnight were brisk. We brought our own sleeping bags but you can rent them from the camper van company. Bring lots of layers, even on sunny days the wind can be bitter. My down jacket was a lifesaver and a stocking cap a must.

    Hiking in Iceland
    Bundle Up

    So, before embarking, figure out what is most important to you, what your budget is and what your comfort level is. Iceland is expensive, but with some planning, you can make it work. Use what we learned to help.

    Our Route

    After three days in Reykjavik we headed to pick up our KuKu and were on the road about 11:00am. We headed first to the Golden Circle, the closest area to Reykjavik. I should mention we chose not to go the Blue Lagoon, because we have visited there on a quick layover a few years ago.

    The Golden Circle offers some fabulous introductions to the wonders of Iceland and its geothermal magic. Here you will also witness the first of thousands (no seriously, thousands) of waterfalls throughout the country.

    Golden Circle Highlights

    I recommend these five things on the Golden Circle for your planning purposes;

    Thingvellir Rift – where the North American and European continents are slowly being pulled apart. Walk through the tectonic rift where ancient Icelandic chieftains met for annual governance.

    Tectonic Plates in Iceland
    Thingvellir Rift

    Church and Cemetery – an easy walk across the river also gives you a great view back to the rift.

    Churches in Iceland
    Thingvillir Church

    Oxararfoss Waterfall – easy walk to a beautiful falls in the Thingvellir area.

    waterfalls in Iceland
    Oxararfoss

    Geysir and the Strokkar Geyser – the word Geyser comes from the town of Geysir, a village sitting on a geothermal hot spot. Right off the road you can walk to the Strokkar Geyser, to watch it spew every three to four minutes.

    Geysers in Iceland
    Strokkar Geyser

    Gullfoss – meaning Gold Waterfall, Gullfoss’ thundering falls can be heard from a long ways away, and the mist can be seen well before you actually make it to the viewing area at the edge of the falls. Come prepared to get a bit wet.

    Icelands famous gullfoss
    Gullfoss Waterfall

    South Island Highlights

    We left the Golden Circle and drove south to the teeny town of Vik for our first night in the camper van where we stayed at the Vik Tjaldsvaedi (this word means campground, you’ll get used to seeing it!). On our first night we enjoyed some homemade chili then bundled up and walked to the beautiful beach to see the low sun in the sky and the lava formations. We spent two nights along the south section of the island and these are our favorite things:

    Day One

    Black Sand Beach at Reynisfjara is stunning with giant basalt cliffs raising up from the black beach. This is where you might see nesting Icelandic puffins. Caution – the surf here can be very high and dangerous.

    The beach at Vik
    Vik sights Iceland
    Reynisfyara Black Sand Beach
    Basalt Cave at Reynisfjara

    Svartifoss (Black Waterfall) is a great little hike with about 850 foot elevation gain. We did the 2.5 mile round trip in a downpour, but we still were glad we did it as the 60 foot waterfall that cascades through the black basalt columns was beautiful.

    Basalt Column waterfall Iceland
    Black Waterfall on a rainy day

    Skaftafell National Park is where we spent our second camper van night…a very rainy and windy night. We got cozy and ate homemade tacos in the van and went to sleep early. We woke up to a bright sunny day.

    Day Two

    Jokulsarlon Lagoon is one of the top sights in Iceland and it’s easy to see why. The glacier lagoon is full of floating icebergs the color of turquoise. Just beautiful. You can wander around and also visit the black sand beach known as Diamond Beach where the icebergs get “beached” in the sand before melting or floating away.

    Jokulsarlon Iceland
    Jokulsarlon Lagoon
    Jokulsarlon Iceland
    Diamond Beach

    The drive from here continuing east and eventually north is full of a jaw dropping beauty. Each mile presenting bucolic views with sheep and horses and cliff side coastal vistas and mountain scenery.

    Ocean views

    East and East Fjords Highlights

    Our third night in the East was spent in tiny Atlavik campground on Lagarfljot lake. It was a bit out of the way, with no services anywhere near, so I was glad we stopped and picked up a few essentials. Spaghetti on the menu this night. A very quiet campground too.

    Lagarfljot Lake Iceland
    Playing Scrabble next to the Lake

    Hengifoss Double Waterfall Hike – we were up very early and the first ones on the trail for this beautiful hike, across the lake to Hengifoss Waterfall. It’s a two-fer waterfall and for me one of the prettiest hikes we did. Leaving we took the road on the other side of the long lake and enjoyed beautiful views of forests and fields of lupines.

    Double Waterfall Iceland
    Hengifoss

    Seydisfjordur was our next destination, about an hour detour off of the Ring Road. This tiny village is home to the ferry terminal to Denmark. Getting there you drive over the top of a mountain with a moonlike landscape then drop down into the stunning narrow fjord where Seydisfjordur sits peacefully minding its business. It’s a fun detour to see life in a small Iceland Village. We walked around and enjoyed lunch then drove back over the mountain to the Ring.

    Colorful Seydisfjordur Iceland
    Seydisfjordur

    Fourth night we stayed in a campground that was on a farm called Modrudalur. It claimed to be the highest altitude farm in Iceland. Driving there we went through another moonlike landscape, sitting inside a vast gray crater. The campground was quaint and quiet. There was a tiny restaurant and some cottages, but we cooked a frittata for our dinner in our camper van.

    Sod buildings Iceland
    Farm style camping

    We headed out early the next morning as we had a long drive today, but the sun was shining and the landscape was incredible.

    Iceland Reindeer
    Reindeer can be spotted in the east of Iceland

    North Highlights

    As we swung to the west and north we were now at the furthest north section we would travel, only about 63 miles from the arctic circle. At this point we were having 23 hours of sunlight each day, and even during sundown it never got dark. At night we would black out the windows in the camper van with coats and clothing as it never got dark the entire time we were in Iceland.

    Iceland sunset
    The midnight sun

    Dettifoss detour – an hour on a gravel road we were wondering if it was going to be worth it as we bumped along rattling everything in the camper van. But oh yes. It was worth it. Only a couple of other people at this site, and on this crystal clear sunny day we not only got to see the spectacular waterfall but a glorious full rainbow over the falls as well. Stunning.

    Rainbow at Dittfoss
    Beautiful Dittifoss Iceland
    Dittifoss

    Namafjalal Geothermal Area is right on the Ring Road just as you approach the Myvatn Lake area. It’s kind of like a miniature Yellowstone. Lots of midge flies here too, so if you have netting wear it. It’s also very stinky. The sulfur fumes can be overwhelming. But it’s also interesting and unusual.

    Geothermal activity Iceland
    Namafhalal

    We learned a lot about the geothermal and volcanic history of this region with visits to both the Skutustadir Pseudocraters and the Dimmuborgir Lava Formations area. Easy hikes at both give you views to both the ancient and the ever evolving Icelandic volcano activity.

    Dimmuborgur Lava Formations
    Myvatn Iceland
    Skutustadir

    Myvatn Geothermal Baths is one of the best and most popular baths in Iceland. This is a great option to experience bathing in a geothermal pool. We had planned to come back to the baths the next day…but unforeseen weather kept us from it.

    We arrived in Akureyri at the end of this day and we loved our large and beautiful campground called Camping Hamrar where we planned to stay two nights. We finally got to do laundry here so I was very happy about it! On our first night we ate Pesto pasta in the camper van and headed to bed early after our full day.

    After a week we desperately needed to do laundry

    The next day we received an email from the Kuku folks asking us to not drive this day, and all of Iceland was under an extreme wind watch. The government was asking folks not to drive on the Ring Road until the storm passed. Luckily we had some flexibility in our schedule so we took this day to enjoy the town of Akureyri with a few fun activities that didn’t require a long drive.

    Akureyeri Botanical Gardens – it was very windy, but this beautiful, free city-owned park was a highlight. So unexpected. I have seen a lot of botanical gardens in my day and it was one of the best. Highly recommend.

    Blue Poppy Iceland
    Akureryi Botanical Gardens

    Bjorbordin Beer Spa – since we weren’t supposed to drive very far, and I was nervous about it, we only traveled about 45 minutes north of Akureyri to this beer spa. It wasn’t something we had planned to do, until we had a day with nothing scheduled so we took the “plunge”. At $80 a person it was extravagant for us, but it was also really fun. The price includes all the beer you can drink.

    Beer Spa Iceland
    Bjorbordin Beer Spa

    In the camper on this night we cooked a delicious dinner of local Icelandic scallops and couscous.

    Day Seven dawned bright and beautiful and the wind abated. We started our day getting a Covid test at the local medical center…still required for our return to the USA. It was well organized and we were done in a jiffy. The windstorm had passed so we took a hike in the mountains outside of Akureyri before heading west. About a five mile hike on the Lambi trail gave us some of the most spectacular views we had anywhere in Iceland. And we didn’t see another hiker the entire time.

    Lambi Hike Iceland
    Beautiful Lambi Hike

    West Iceland Highlights

    After our hike we spent most of the day driving west and south, as we headed to the Snaefellness Peninsula. The drive was so beautiful. We stopped at a tiny campground/hostel called Saeberg, right on the fjord, and enjoyed both a geothermal hot tub and a wonderful conversation with a local woman who was a guide for a group on horseback who were staying at the hostel. We ate in a restaurant on this night, enjoying wonderful local Icelandic lamb chops.

    Geothermal Hot Tub Iceland
    Geothermal hot tub

    Day 8 we arrived on the Snaefellnes Peninsula. We spent a leisurely two days seeing the sights here, some of the most beautiful in Iceland. It would be easy to see the Snaefellnes in one day, but we were happy to not be in a hurry.

    Stykkisholmur Fishing town – this tiny town is another great example of how the locals live. Most Icelandic homes are modest one story houses. Near the port are the majority of the historic buildings and we enjoyed a coffee and croissant in a sidewalk cafe in the sun. The port is home to the ferry that goes across from the Peninsula to the West Fjords.

    Fishing boats Iceland
    The harbor at Stykkisholmur

    Beserkjahraun Lava Fields – you will drive right through the middle of this vast ancient lava flow of unusual shapes covered in a pale yellow lichen. Formed more than 4000 years ago, Icelandic folklore tells a tale of Viking warriors going to battle without armor, that the lava fields are named for.

    Lava Flow Iceland
    Lichen covered lava fields

    Kirkjufell View Point – Kirkjufell Mountain and the waterfall adjacent to it is one of the most picturesque views in all of Iceland. In fact, this photo often graces guidebooks and websites. Be sure to stop and see it, even if it’s not a good weather day. It’s stunning.

    Kirkufell Iceland
    Kirkufell viewpoint

    We stopped in the teeny fishing village of Rif where we had a delicious early dinner of Fish and Chips, Icelandic Potato Salad and Coleslaw.

    Skarthsvik Yellow Sand Beach – worth a quick stop if only for the uniqueness of the color of the sand against the black basalt cliffs. This is the only beach we saw on the island that was not a black sand beach.

    Yellow sand beach Iceland
    Skarthsvik

    Saxholl Crater – is a nearly 400 foot crater that juts out of the landscape very close to the road. It’s red and black conical shape is impossible to miss. A set of rust colored steps lead you to the top where you can peek into the crater and enjoy a remarkable 360 degree view. If Snaefelljokull Mountain is out, this is place to enjoy it.

    Saxholl Iceland
    Saxholl Crater
    Saxholl Crater climb

    Our campground on night 8 was a tiny but brand new spot in the town of Hellissandur called Hellissandur Camping, with sparkling clean bathrooms and common area. It was a treat. We woke up in the morning to a crystal clear view of Snaefelljokull Mountain (the name means ‘snow mountain glacier’), which we never expected because it is usually hidden in clouds. Special treat.

    Snowy Mountain Iceland
    Snaefelljokul Mountain

    Hellissandur Murals – the teeny village of Hellisandur is all residential with almost no services, but it is proud to be Iceland’s Mural Capital. If you have time take a stroll through the tiny village and look at the many murals.

    Hellisandur Iceland
    Hellisandur Murals

    Djupalonssandur Black Sand Beach – worth a stop and walk through the lava formations out onto the beach. This used to be a thriving fishing spot where hopeful fisherman had to do a strength test by lifting stones from the beach. You will also see the remains of a British fishing trawler that crashed in 1948.

    Shipwreck Iceland
    Djupalonssandur

    Hellnar to Arnarstapi walk – this was one of the funnest things we did on our trip. A short four-mile round trip walk along the fascinatingly beautiful ocean side basalt cliffs. The cliffs are home to thousands of nesting seabirds as well as an abundance of wildflowers. If you start in Arnarstapi you can take a break at the tiny historic seaside cottage turned small cafe called Fjoruhusid at the halfway point in Hellnar. Enjoy a pastry with coffee of tea, or order the authentic and delicious Iceland Fish Soup which is what we did. With fantastic bread too. We splurged on the “cheesecake” made from Skyr, a popular yogurt/sour cream-like favorite of the Iceland people.

    Cliff Walk
    Fjoruhusid Iceland
    The tiny cottage restaurant
    Fish Soup Iceland
    Delicious Icelandic Fish Soup

    Rauthfeldsgja Gorge – A literal gash in the side of the mountain is a short walk from the parking lot. Crawl over a few boulders and across a tiny creek to walk into the mouth of this gorge and look at the green moss and beautiful light.

    Gorge Iceland
    Rauthfeldsgia Gorge

    Budir Black Church – a tiny settlement is home to one of the most distinctive church landmarks in Iceland.

    Black Church Iceland
    Budir Black Church

    Gerthurberg Basalt Cliffs – fascinating interlocking row of basalt pillars that look like a row of black piano keys. Worth a quick stop for a photo, or with more time climb to the top.

    Basalt Columns Iceland
    Gerthurberg Basalt Cliffs

    We spent our final night in a facing the beach in the Akranes Campground about 45 minutes outside of Reykjavik. We returned the camper van the next morning and took the shuttle to the airport.

    Final Thoughts Iceland by the Ring Road

    We did not tour the West Fjords, which are off the Ring Road. With two to three more days you could add the West Fjords, but the roads are rough and winding and you can not be in a hurry.

    The Ring Road can get crowded during peak season with camper vans, cars, cyclist, hitchhikers and sheep! This two lane road has no shoulder and certain sections of the road are gravel. You will cross countless small bridges, many of which are one lane. You just can’t be in a hurry. Take that to heart and plan some extra days for bad weather or potential mechanical difficulties etc. Take it slow when doing Iceland by the Ring Road.

    We did not see everything…not even close, despite our 13 days. So good planning is important to see the things of most interest to you.

    The photos don’t do it justice…one of the most uniquely beautiful places I’ve been. See it now before the word gets out. Check out Rick Steve’s Iceland Guide – we found it very helpful. And visit www.visticeland.com the official tourism website for Iceland.

    The Ring Road Iceland
    Beautiful Ring Road

    Be sure to check in next Friday for our Reykjavik recommendations.

    We welcome questions if you are considering visiting Iceland. Ask away in the comments. We promise to respond.

    We love it when you pin and share our blog posts.

    Inspire

    Message From Cyprus Edition Five

    Blessings, Grief and Goals

    Location: Argaka Cyprus

    The Numbers

    Day 34 on Cyprus – Day 30 in Quarantine/Lockdown

    April 11 th marked seven months since we left the USA

    Cyprus Virus Cases as of today 620 – Deaths 13

    See below for latest news and developments from the island under lockdown.

    Blessings

    It’s Easter Sunday and I’m determined to count my blessings all day…and especially in this message before I move on to the other details of our lockdown life. There are many blessings and I remind myself this when I am falling down the rabbit hole of too much news, too much worry and too much social media. I am blessed;

    • I’m healthy and safe
    • Although I know some people with the virus, they are all acquaintances of acquaintances and so far none of my family or close circle of friends have been afflicted. That I know of.
    • My husband is with me
    • I can talk to my family and friends regularly
    • Cyprus is beautiful
    • Our villa and hosts have been exceptional
    • I have been to 110 countries and if I never get to travel again, well I have been to 110 countries and I am blessed.

    It may be Easter in most of the world, but it’s not Easter here in Cyprus. We actually get to celebrate Easter twice. Small blessing. Today we celebrate on the day most of the Christian world celebrates and next Sunday the Orthodox Easter is celebrated. It’s something to look forward to, although we won’t leave the house for either of these holidays. Blessings.

    Easter Blessings
    Easter Blessings

    Grief Becomes Goals

    Like a big heavy wet blanket, grief is oppressive as it lays on our lives. I’m aware how many people have been feeling this way, and I have too. We are grieving for our past lives and for things familiar. Recognizing what this emotion is is definitely the healthiest step we can make, and recognizing the chapters and long road we face ahead is important.

    On my run this morning I was remembering my personal battle of grief when my brother died. I was highly functioning for months following his death, handling all the gruesome details of my brother’s sudden death, pushing my grief away. There was a very poignant moment for me, when, feeling sorry for myself I was thinking how much I wanted things to just go back to normal. Normal.

    What is normal after a loss, tragedy, crisis? It was that moment that I instinctively knew the answer to one of life’s most difficult questions. There never will be a normal of old. It’s gone, just like yesterday and two minutes ago. Can’t get it back. A new normal develops…and we gradually accept and live in it.

    I think I’m making positive steps towards the new normal, as I have found myself much more engaged in trying to keep busy and definitely looking at what life will look like going forward. Blessings.

    Goals
    Keepimg Busy

    Healthy Body and Mind

    The movie Wall-E keeps running through my mind, where the human race needs to leave planet earth to let it heal. Remember? And they all live on some kind of Starship Enterprise, getting fat, and lazy and stupid.

    Oh dear.

    I am still finding it difficult to focus on reading…of all things. I should be devouring books, but I’m not. But I have found something else to take my mind off of the bad news. I’ve never allowed myself the time to listen to podcasts, take webinars, or sign up for classes on line. This past week I have done all of those things. And I have learned so much and it feels great.

    Most of the learning I’m doing online is geared towards this blog (although I snuk in a cooking class)…how might this blog look in the months and years ahead with the changes in travel? How can I keep it viable and interesting, inspiring and fun? I took a class about Pinterest and Tailwind and am considering doing an online Tailwind consulting. Tailwind has always baffled me so I kind of ignore it. I also took a wonderful webinar about Instagram and learned some fun new things. Additionally I took a live online class with other bloggers about search engine optimization and affiliate options for bloggers. BTW check out my new and improved Pinterest account here. It’s pretty.

    These are all things I never paid much attention to…but now I am learning and finding it really fascinating. Keeping my mind open to learning. I’m doing yoga and have a new app for that too and I’ve begun training for a half marathon. No Wall-E for this girl. Blessings.

    Hiking on Mauritius
    Keeping Positive

    Latest Cyprus News

    A lot of things happened this week on the island. First, the stay home lockdown has been extended to April 30 th, same as the USA. Easter has been “postponed” until May, as the government tries to get the Church to agree to not hold Easter services. A big task in this very religious country.

    We still need to ask permission to leave the house, which we do via text. We went to the grocery store this week, and were stopped by the police at a road block. We had to show our “permission” to be out, and then we were flagged through. If we didn’t have that authorization, we would each be fined $300. Thousands of citations have been given over the past few weeks and one man has been arrested for some kind of fake SMS scheme he was running.

    There was a flight that left Cyprus this week to Stockholm. We considered taking it, but decided against it. We would have needed to stay the night in Stockholm, take a second flight to London, stay the night in London and then take a third flight to Seattle. This did not seem like a healthy or safe scenario so we decided to wait.

    We received a phone call from the Embassy checking on us. They were trying to determine the level of “need” each American has. This is good, the most interest they have shown in our welfare. We are aware that there are many people who have much more urgent reasons to get back to the USA (jobs, kids etc) than we do. We are also aware of some cases where people are running out of money and need to get out. We do not fall into those categories. We continue to be safe and comfortable. Blessings.

    You may have seen the interview that I did with Q13 News in Seattle this week. It was fun to tell our story, even if they did pronounce my name wrong. It’s okay – not the first time I’ve been called Loud. 🙂

    In our original itinerary we would have been touring the Caucasus right now; Armenia. Georgia and Azerbaijan. But we aren’t so no point in dwelling on it. It’s the new normal.

    Still waiting for Airbnb to make it right by us. Flights we had in May have now all been canceled. Unfortunately they are giving credit not cash. Ugh.

    My gut tells me we will be here until May…assuming the airport opens in early May. At that time we will determine a plan of action. But until then, we will certainly consider any possible flight that comes available, but more likely we will spend our days here, waiting like the rest of the world. Blessings.

    Stay safe my friends. Be good to each other. Happy Easter.

    Cyprus Lockdown
    Inspire

    “No Problem” Kayak, Camp and Fabulous Women

    Adventure Travel in My Fabulous Fifties

    Location: Belize

    It was convenient, since I was already in Belize.  When I heard about this kayak, camp Belize trip I asked Arne if he thought we might extend our time in Belize so I could go on this trip?  He said sure.  So it was really easy.  With the push of a few buttons I was onboard to kayak with a group of women coming to Belize from the USA.

    I didn’t  give it a lot of thought.  I just thought it might be fun.  But when all was said and done it was much more than just fun.  It was many things unexpected and rich, and more than anything, it was a fabulous adventure with fabulous women.

    No Problem

    Our amazing guide Eric became notorious for saying “no problem” for any question we asked or problem we posed.  He was amazing and made the journey so simple. Eric’s tour company Belizean Style (recoronald@gmail.com), was contracted by Kayak Belize to guide us through the week.  Bainbridge Island, Washington based Journey for a Purpose was the lead organization, who pulled together 12 women to experience this together.  The 12 of us, aged 30-72, came from many different backgrounds, places, professions and experiences.  And yet we fit together like a beautiful puzzle.  It was fate.

    Beautiful

    Sometimes I am hard to impress, given the amount of territory I have covered.  But this place – the cayes off the coast of Belize – is almost indescribable.  Azure blue, turquoise green, golden-yellow, royal purple.  These are the colors of the world-famous reef and seas.  Jungle green, sandy pink, cocoa brown, chalky white.  These are the colors of the tiny private atolls.  So much beauty everywhere you turn.

    Empowering

    I’ve had some amazing moments in my life that have empowered me, when I’ve found myself doing things I might otherwise turn to Arne and expect him to do for me or with me.  Everything from setting up a tent, riding my bike across the state of Washington, walking 487 miles on the Camino to climbing a mountain.  On this kayak journey, I found myself figuring out the logistics of equipment.  Paddling the single kayak without Arne’s help. Finding private time when I needed it.  As much as I adore my husband it’s always a good feeling when I’m left to my own powerful decision making.

    Difficult

    We had some big winds and some tough paddle days.  My back hurt and my arms felt like jelly but I made myself endure.  The high winds and rain also surprised us early one morning and our tents flapped and threatened to sail away.  But it was amazing how everyone worked together.  How Mr. No Problem Eric was there to help.  How we laughed about it after.  We were strong. Invincible. Fierce.

    Inspiring

    As a group we spent time each day in “circle”.  Here we practiced the art of listening, more than telling. Each woman had time to talk about herself, her background, her greatest challenge, her greatest achievement.  While each spoke the others listened intently with acceptance and support.  It’s not something I am usually comfortable with, but the format made me so.  It was open, acknowledging and welcoming.  It was real and refreshing and full.  It was inspirational.

    Peaceful

    The atoll we were camping at is Moho Caye.  It is about 13 miles out on the reef from Placencia. From 10am-3pm day trippers can visit the island.  Some days as many as twenty people might show up, while other days perhaps only five.  But from 3pm to 10am we had the entire island to ourselves.  We all agreed it was spectacular.  It was a cross between Gilligan’s Island and Castaway.  A remarkable opportunity to relish the beauty of a private island to ourselves.  We sung around the campfire and skinny dipped in the ocean.  This was our island and we embraced it and it in return it showered us with lovely memories.

    Hilarious

    There is absolutely nothing in the world so wonderful as belly laughing.  Laugh yourself silly.  Laugh yourself happy.  Laugh yourself healthy.  It’s cleansing and exhausting and wonderful to laugh fully with abandon.  And we did.  We laughed over stories. We laughed over songs.  We laughed over games.  We found so much to bring smile and laughter to our time together, even though we had known each other such a short while.  It was a happy and full experience of genuine spirited female fun.

    Positive

    Our wonderful leaders Spring and Maria from Journey for a Purpose found a variety of positive ways to bring us together as a group from snorkeling with sharks, rays and turtles to kayaking to singing to sharing.  But in addition some of my most favorite moments were when we all did yoga together on the beach, creating an awareness within us as well as pulling the positive energy into our bodies.  We also spent time making beach art and describing our beach art to each other.  One day we walked around our island and brought back something from nature.  We then spent time with Mr. No Problem Eric and learned something about the items we found.  Then together we shared.  It was great fun as the items collected ranged from a gecko to driftwood, from coral to leaves and branches. Our island shared its deep natural history.

    Affirming

    While on our island, one of the women got the news that her father-in-law had passed away.  As much as she felt she should be home with her family, we became her family that day and showered her with love. We helped memorialize a man we didn’t know, but it was so easy because we were all on the same wave-length.  It was very affirming to me, to feel the love and joy being heaped on our friend and her departed kin.  But for me it was also affirming to my life’s mission of living each moment as if it were my last.  Of caring for myself in a way that gives me the strength to care for others.  And above all, being fully present.  A reminder to center myself and just be. This was a gift.

    Journey for a Purpose

    This is my second experience with Journey for a Purpose and I have loved both.  You can find more information about them at the website link above.  A few spots are still available for their Blake Island, Washington trips this summer.

    I recently stumbled upon this quote, and it epitomizes for me how I feel about my kayak camping adventure as well as my daily life;

    “To be fully alive, fully human, and completely awake is to be continually thrown out of the nest. To live fully is to be always in no man’s land.” – Pema Chodron

    I was thrown from the nest n this adventure and loved it immensely. Thank you for challenging me and loving me and for my new friends who I hope to meet again someday.  To Spring, Maria, Pamela, Susan, Suzanne, Eileen, Kathy, Nadine, Meg, Katie, Kelly, Ian (our cook) and Mr. No Problem Eric, I salute you.  I hope you find what you are looking for and I wish you joy.

    Fabulous!

    Please share our blog!

     

     

    Inspire

    Best and Worst Airports of the World

    The Blur of Airports in my Head

    Location: Best and Worst Airports

    It’s already late March.  Where does the time go?  The grand adventure has been underway for 16 months now and the flights and airports all blur together in my head.  But there are a few memorable ones, for both good and bad reasons, so we thought it was time to write about the Best and Worst Airports of the World – according to My Fab Fifties Life.

    Best and Worst Airports

    Seattle on the day we left the USA

    My favorite airport used to be Schiphol in Amsterdam.  And I still love it.  It’s like a small city and can keep you entertained for days (hopefully you don’t spend days there).  On our world tour we have encountered some similar airports, mainly the hub airports that are so spectacular in Dubai, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Qatar.  In these beautifully designed airports you can enjoy

    Best and Worst airports

    Napping

    fantastic works of art, delicious dining, designer and convenience shopping as well as usually a fine hotel.  You can also find spas and salons, quiet zones, kids zones, smoking zones, charging zones and sleeping zones and often showers.

    Almost all the comforts of home.

    The Dubai Airport, a giant megatropolis is about to be closed because another even bigger one is

    Best and Worst Airports

    Coming in to Praslin

    slated to open very soon.  From a distance it looks like something from the future.  Huge, artistic and from another world. When finished it will be largest airport in the world. Can’t wait to see it.  I was told they will just tear down the other one…weird.

    We have had some good experiences in some small airports too.  Cape Town, South Africa was the quickest and easiest airport we ever went through.  Dhaka, Bangladesh, though rundown and old, was one of the friendliest airports with helpful police who escorted us around the passport control so we could get some local currency to pay for our visa on entry.

    Best and Worst airports

    Sunrise flight out of Perth

    Small airports have a big advantage in that you can be off the plane and in your taxi in 15 or 20 minutes.  No long lines, no walking miles to get to baggage claim.  Arrival in Alice Springs and Cairns Australia was so quick.  Maldives airport was beautiful and easy to maneuver.  The teeny Praslin Island airport in the Seychelles was more like a bus station.  Off the plane and on our way. Just botta bing botta bang and you are out the door.  Nice.

    Best and Worst Airports

    Boarding in Marrakesh

    In Koh Samui Thailand the tiny airport had a beautiful area for waiting for departure and it included free popcorn, chips, coffee and juice.  I’ve never seen that anywhere else. However the approach by car to Koh Samui was poor – winding in a van through one lane residential streets weaving in and out of kids and dogs and bikes.  Yikes.

    In Praslin Seychelles there are so few flights a day there is a traffic light to hold traffic when a plane is landing.  The plane’s approach is over the road.  But usually it doesn’t matter.  There is very little car traffic either.

    Many smaller and medium size airports look very much the same.  It’s difficult to distinguish

    Best and Worst Airports

    On board we always try to have aisle seats across from each other

    between them.  Dubrovnik, Madrid, Santiago, Cape Town – all the same.

    We landed in Guam at 3:40 in the morning.  In a daze we maneuvered to the car rental area, happy to find them open and waiting for us.  Hallelujah!

    Less impressive experiences were in Manila, where the waiting area on the concourse was so tiny and crowded we had to sit on the floor.  There was no ATM machine and the unimpressive food kiosks only took local currency.  In Casablanca, the airport was fine but the baggage handling with Air Maroc was the worst.  Our bags on our short flight from Marrakesh disappeared and no one could find them.  When they were found, it was because I went and searched every luggage carousel in the airport and found them myself.

    Passport control was horrible in Tunisia and Siem Reap, Cambodia where we stood in line for more than hour for no reason other than one passport control guy wanting to be an ass and seem important.

    In Sofia Bulgaria, the small but new and nice

    Best and Worst Airports

    On the tarmac

    airport was marred by the unfriendly and unhelpful tourist information desk and the fact that there was not a single ATM at the airport.

    In Ho Chi Minh City the airport was okay but it was the dishonest taxi driver who put a bad taste in our mouth.  Trying to trick us and drive us in circles and tell us a 100 bill was a 10.

    On departing Delhi India the service at the check in counter was so slow that even though we allowed three hours we barely made our flight.  And we went through security intending to find a cash

    Best and Worst Airports

    Seychelles

    machine on the concourse only to be told ATM’s were only in the check-in area. What?

    Best and Worst Airports

    Our beautiful hotel in the Singapore airport

    Sometimes when we have really long-haul flights we will break the up with overnight (and sometimes a day) at an airport hotel.  SInce we aren’t pressed for time we find this a great way to avoid jet-lag.  We have done this in Dubai, Qatar, Bangkok and Singapore.

    We only have a few flights left before we board a cruise ship for our final leg back to the USA.  We have learned a lot – how to pack and plan, prepare and endure all these flights.  We’ve also learned to just relax because most of the time it’s all out of our hands.

    Flight # 52 today to Sydney Australia! Away!

     

    Asia & Oceania Travel

    Visit South Korea – Spend a Weekend with the Monks

    Location: South Korea

    Visit South Korea for some amazing experiences, delicious foods, spectacular scenery and to spend a weekend with the Monks. You won’t regret it.

    South Korea a weekend with the monks

    Our group together

    I’ve done a lot of cool things in my life.  A few experiences stand out to me.  As I have aged I am more aware how unique some of these moments have been; taking a shower on the Serengeti with water heated over an open fire, eating honey and coffee with the leaders of a village in Ethiopia, sitting cross legged on the floor in the traditional home of an ancient Japanese master paper umbrella artist while he gave my family a personal demonstration of his craft. Swimming with sea lions in Galapagos, dolphins in Zanzibar and Manta Rays in Hawaii.   Participating in the annual bird inventory on Molokai and summiting Warma Wanusqa Peak (13,500 feet) on the Inca Trail in Peru. I’ve danced with the natives in a Burkina Faso village, and discussed motherhood with the Himba women in Namibia.  Remarkable experiences all.

    South Korea a weekend with the monks

    Enjoying our vegetarian meal

    I never really set out to accomplish anything specifically unique.  I only have found myself in situations that seem unique to others.  And these moments are the ones that have defined me and have broadened my awareness of the world.  These moments I hold dear, each difficult to describe or put into words and accurately share.  They are the definition of indescribable.

    South Korea a weekend with the monks

    Learning about the prostrations

    In Korea I had an indescribable experience lucky enough to spend a weekend with the Monks in the Geumsunsa Temple in the mountains outside of Seoul.  Adding this to my list of unique and memorable life experiences.  I really recommend both a visit to South Korea and a weekend with the monks.

    I went into this with next to no knowledge of Buddhism.  I still know very little, but I did gain awareness of a way of life that is not a religion, but a goal to practice living life with an open heart. According to Buddhist traditions a Buddha is a fully awakened being who has completely purified his mind of the three poisons of desire, aversion and ignorance.

    The Geumsunsa Temple is perched on Mount Bukhan to the North and West of Seoul.  We arrived late, our GPS refusing to cooperate and maneuvering through the streets of Seoul without it proved a difficult task.  Once we found the parking lot at the base of the mountain we hiked the last quarter mile straight up the mountain to the temple entrance – the only access to the temple is on foot.

    South Korea a weekend with the monks

    Arne at the silent breakfast

    Arriving late I was frazzled and frantic, and certainly not in a transcendental state of mind, but I took a few deep breaths and prepared myself to spend a weekend with the monks.  We entered in a room with about a dozen other people where the orientation had already begun. We sat quietly in the back trying to catch our breath and catch up on the presentation.  It was presented in both Korean and English.

    We were given a tour of the temple and some history.  The 1000-year-old temple is small compared to some (five monks when some temples have 200) but it is very beautiful and well maintained. I wish I could visit in spring or fall, I’m sure it is spectacular when all the foliage on the mountain is out.

    South Korea a weekend with d with the monks

    Dinnee

    We were served a very good vegetarian dinner with soup, rice and multiple kimchee and vegetable choices.  We were instructed that we had to eat everything that we took, down to the last grain of rice.  No food could be wasted.  We were shown how to use an apple slice to clean our plates of all food remnants so they almost appeared to not even need to be washed.

    South Korea a weekend with d with the monks

    Mindfulness

    Following dinner we were escorted to the Buddha room, a beautiful part of the temple adorned to praise Buddha, the teacher. A Buddhist temple is called Vihara and is a place for education. In the shrine room of each temple is where a large Buddha and statues of his disciples are. Here is where we began our 108 prostrations.  I was worried about accomplishing this task.  Starting in a standing position to lying prone on the floor, methodically and with purpose 108 times in a row.  I was already finding my body was having a great deal of difficulty sitting cross-legged on the floor – an unnatural position for most Americans.  We were instructed how to do the prostrations and how to release our minds from turmoil. The practice of Buddhism is the never-ending humbling of the ego. Humbling yourself before the world, by lowering your body you realize that you are one with everything. Performing 108 prostrations is yet another path towards the realization of the True Self.

    And so we began.  108 times; each prostration symbolizing a goal, or gratitude or repentance; For example; I prostrate myself to show appreciation to my parents for giving birth to me.  Or I prostrate myself to ask forgiveness for people I may have hurt. Or I prostrate myself for a humble mind. Or I prostrate myself for peace among all countries and an end to all wars.

    And on and on, 108 times.  It lasted about 30 minutes and I was sweating and exhausted when it was over.

    South Korea a weekend with the monks

    The beautiful temple

    We were later asked to choose one of the prostration sentences that spoke to us specifically and we drew pictures then shared with the group.  Many people in the room were brought to tears during this circle time; some feeling stress in their jobs or sadness in lost relationship, and others wanting to show love to their parents who are ailing.  It was an emotional experience for many.  I chose the one that asks to be more humble.  This is truly a goal I have been working on for some time, so it called to me.

    I thought doing 108 prostrations would be the most difficult thing I did during my visit, but no.  Sleeping on the floor was.  Or trying to sleep I should say.  We slept side by side (men and women separated) on an extremely hard floor with a blanket and pillow.  It was a very, very long night.

    South Korea a weekend with the monks

    Arne being flipped during the exercise program

    South Korea a weekend with the monks

    Tea with one of our host monks

    The bell chimed at 4:30am for wake up.  I wasn’t sad to get up.  I really couldn’t lie there anymore.  Our morning was spent in silence and meditation followed by wake up exercises harder than my yoga classes and then a vegetarian ceremonial breakfast, very ritualistic and eaten in silence.  We all then shared in chores around the temple before sitting down to have tea and a conversation with one of the monks. I think this was my favorite time.

    South Korea a weekend with the monks

    We really enjoyed our friendly monks

    The monk prepared and poured the tea for us as she answered each and every question we had about her life as a monk, Buddha and Buddhism, philosophy, the temple and much more.  It was fascinating and enlightening to see a human being choose to live this life and walk away from everything materialistic and dedicate everything to the practice of becoming Buddha.

    South Korea a weekend with the monks

    On top of the sunny mountain

    Finally we headed up the mountain for a beautiful hike on the cold and sunny morning.  We spent time sitting at the top of the mountain enjoying the spectacular scenery and each other’s company and meditating on our time together.  We hiked back to the temple for our vegetarian lunch, paper lantern making and then farewell to our new friends and Temple Geumsunsa.

    South Korea a weekend with the monks

    Farewell to our new friends

    My back and hips were killing me and I was desperate for a nap and a large coffee as we hiked down the path to the car, but my heart and mind were full as I thoughtfully considered what I learned from this experience.  I felt validated in my Fabulous Fifties objectives to not look outside for approval and rather to find it within.  My knowledge that being true to myself, despite what others believe and grateful for all things in my life, good and bad, is the best destiny.  Being honest, forgiving, following my intuition and celebrating the one short life we have is my practice.

    I prostrate myself for a humble mind. Fabulous.

    Note – find out how you can have this experience at http://koreantemples.com/?p=6684

     

    North America Travel

    Solo Las Vegas

    Fun Things to do Alone in Las Vegas

    Location: Las Vegas Nevada

    <img alt = "las vegas".

    Iconic Las Vegas

    So how do you Solo Las Vegas?  Don’t worry – there are lots of things to do!  I wasn’t really sure how this was going to go, but, I have to say, I had a wonderful time enjoying my time alone.  I’m not a gambler and I’m not too interested in anything to raunchy or risqué.  But there is so much in this city beyond all the “what happens here” stuff.  It’s what I love about Vegas.  Unfortunately some of the best stuff gets lost behind all the glitz.

    So I found myself getting lost in Las Vegas. My sixth time in Vegas is my first time alone here.  Why would you come to Vegas alone?  Well, it’s a long story, but my husband is camping with college friends in Death Valley (two hours Northwest) and I am in town to run a half marathon.  So I decided to take on Vegas solo…just another thing I am learning in my fabulous fifties.  Solo Las Vegas is okay. Alone; but certainly not bored in this town.

    I booked a room at the Flamingo.  We’ve stayed here several times before.  The Flamingo definitely has the best pool in town…but, not so much in November.  It never occurred to me to check if the pool was open.  It wasn’t.  Oh well, it is November after-all, but the weather was great and I was looking forward to a little pool time.

     

    <img alt = "flamingo las vegas".

    Flamingos at the Flamingo

    Vegas Tip:  Depending on the season, ask questions when you book your room.  Vegas is not hot year around, but November is a great time to travel here, as the crowds are down and so are the room rates.

    The Flamingo upgraded me to a suite when they were not able to offer me the King bed I had requested.  Every time I have been in Vegas I have found the hotels willing to give you upgrades or perks.  The rooms are not where they make the money, so they want you happy and a loyal return customer.  So ask.

    Vegas Tip:  Over the years I’ve stayed at the Flamingo, Planet Hollywood and the Monte Carlo.  For me, I avoid the “themed” hotels because they are more crowded and noisier with gamblers and shoppers.  You are always welcome at any of the hotels whether you are staying or not.  So I choose something quieter and smaller and just visit the giant hotels for the fun stuff.

    I decided on this visit to check out some things in Vegas I had never done before, including some things in the outlying area.  So I rented a car.  You don’t need a car if you are planning on staying only on the “Strip”.  But if you are in Vegas more than a couple of days, I really recommend getting a car…there are some amazing things to see within a few minutes of the strip and just an hour or two outside of town.  It’s safe and the roads are good so a solo Las Vegas trip can include some outlying adventures.

    Vegas Tip:  Parking is free everywhere.  The hotels really want you to come in and gamble, so parking is free and abundant.  In my home city of Seattle you will pay $30 or more a night for parking at downtown hotels.  Not so in Vegas.  Take this perk into consideration in your decision on renting a car.

    On this trip I visited three destinations in my car.  I recommend all three;

    <img alt = "death valley">

    Me in Death Valley

    Valley of the Fire State Park – 1 hour Northeast.  What a stunning surprise this park was.  It is surprising this park is not a National Park.  It felt like a miniature Arches or Bryce Canyon.  You can easily see this park in a half a day, either from your car or on a handful of wonderful walks or hikes that fit any skill level.

    Red Rock Canyon National Monument – 30 min West.  Another stunningly beautiful park with a great scenic drive if you don’t want to hike.  If you do want to hike there are lots of great little trials though this beautiful park.

    Death Valley National Park – 2 hours Northwest.  Worth the drive (in the winter or early spring).  You can do this trip in a day, or you can stay the night in Furnace Creek. Death Valley is a remarkable place.  Several incredible sites are within sight of the main road, showing off the interesting geological aspects of the lowest place in the Western Hemisphere.

    Vegas Tip:  I did not go this time to Hoover Dam or Lake Mead but these destinations are also an easy drive from the Strip.  In addition, Grand Canyon is about three hours away.  You can easily make Vegas your home base to experience some of our countries greatest sites.

    Back in Vegas I decided to take in two Cirque de Soleil shows during my visit.  On previous visits I have seen some of the  “showgirl” type of shows (Jubilee, Crazy Girls, Burlesque) and I have also seen Blue Man Group, Wayne Brady, Kathy Griffin and Jersey Boys.  I’ve also seen Menopause the Musical several times, both in Seattle and in Las Vegas.  This show is hilarious, and continues its long Las Vegas run at Harrahs.  Laugh out loud – even if you are on a solo Las Vegas adventure.

    <img alt = "glass art las vegas".

    Bellagio Glass Ceiling

    Solo in Las Vegas I saw the Beatles Love one night and Mystere the next.  Cirque shows are all spectacular, but I am always impressed how they can make each show so different.  It makes you want to see all the shows.  Love and Mystere were very different from each other, as well as very different from the two shows I have seen previously (OZumanity and KA).  Beatles Love showcased original Beatles recordings including never before heard conversations of the Fab Four in the recording studio.  Using these original works Cirque designed a wonderfully nostalgic walk down Beatles memory lane, using their signature acrobatics, special effects and costumes.

    Mystere was very different from Love.  I laughed out loud so many times during this, fun and light show which excelled not only in comedy but in costuming and definitely in acrobatics.  This show included a great deal of audience interaction. I really loved it. And guess what?  Being solo, I was escorted from my balcony seat down to row three!  Perks for solo Las Vegas!

    KA and O remain my all time favorites, but it really is difficult to compare these shows.  There is nothing else like them on earth, and that is why they fit so perfectly well in Vegas.

    Vegas Tip: Discount tickets can be purchased day of often for 50% off.  Don’t expect to find all the shows available though.  The very popular shows such as KA, “O”, Celine Dion, or Elton John are rarely available.  If you have your heart set on these blockbuster shows buy your tickets before you come to Vegas and be prepared to pay full price.

     

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    Fountain at the Bellagio

    Of course a fabulous thing to do in Vegas, when you are solo or anytime, is shop!  Some of my favorite shopping areas are at The Venetian, The Bellagio and ParisThe Fashion Show Mall, across from The Wynn is also very popular.  This trip I was shopping for make up and a new handbag and boy did I have a lot of places to choose from.  There are many shopping areas I have still to tackle, so of course I have some great reasons to make another trip to the “Strip”.

    The days are over where Vegas was a cheap destination.  You still can find inexpensive meals and hotels, but the really hot items are gonna cost you.  So if you are on a budget (few of us aren’t) get lost enjoying some of the free entertainment available all around you.  You just gotta know where to look.   Since I was alone, I really enjoyed just walking around and taking in the sights and sounds. Be sure to stop and see the fabulous fountain show (free) outside of the Bellagio check times here, the amazing atrium indoor garden (changes seasonally) inside the Bellagio (free and one of my top things to do in Vegas), and the belching volcano outside the Mirage check times here.

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    Slotzilla in Freemont

    Be sure to check out the free light show in Fremont ( one of my top things to do in Vegas). In fact Fremont is really fun, and its too bad more people never get down there.  If you are brave enough the a highlight in Fremont is the Slotzilla Zipline!  Not free but so much fun!  Get your tickets in advance, because it often fills up! I can’t wait to do this again.

    People watching is fantastic, interesting, entertaining and free way to spend some time; have a seat and watch the show.  Solo Las Vegas you will see rhinestone and sequins next to jeans and t-shirts, and sometimes hardly nothing at all.  But it is Vegas.  It’s come as you are (or as you want to be) everywhere in Las Vegas.

    Vegas Tip:  If you are planning on being in town in November or December check into special shopping packages  available at many of the hotels.  These packages include shuttle services to many of the best shopping malls.

    Vegas Tip: Although the Monorail, in my judgement, should extend both North to Fremont and South to the Airport, it currently runs from the MGM North to the Convention Center.  Depending on where you want to go, it might be a good choice to help you get around, especially for a solo Las Vegas adventure. Taxi’s are plentiful as well.

    <img alt = "slotvilla zipline in Freemont".

    Me on the right – Slotzilla Zipline

    Some of my favorite solo Las Vegas sites I discovered on this trip.  Not free but for a minimal $18 I highly recommend the wonderful Neon Boneyard Museum, just North of Fremont (free parking).  This guided tour is a fascinating walk down Vegas memory lane.  A night-time tour (with lights) is also available.  This might now be my favorite thing to do in Vegas.  For a minimal charge I also recommend the New York New York roller coaster, the trip up the Eiffel Tower and the changing exhibits at the Imagines Exhibitions Gallery at the Venetian.  This visit I lost myself here enjoying a most remarkable exhibit of National Geographic photography for only $20.  Many people really love the High Roller Wheel.  I thought it was just okay.  

    You do get a good view, and you can have drinks while you make the full circle…it just wasn’t as exciting as I was expecting.  But you can’t love everything I guess.

    Being a coffee addict, I have to say, finding a good cup of coffee in the hotels is tough.  You will pay more for a cup of coffee than you will for a beer a lot of places.  No Vegas hotel I have ever stayed in has provided coffee in the room….remember they want you in the casino not in your room.  However there are several Starbucks throughout the strip (and other espresso kind of shops) if you are in need. When you are on your solo Las Vegas adventure coffee is a must.  And don’t forget, Starbucks always has free wi-fi too, so don’t pay your hotel for wi-fi if you don’t want to.

    Vegas Tip:  I’ve noticed in the shopping mall areas you will find many shops and restaurants offering wifi.  I locked on to free wifi at Sephora of all places while at the Planet Hollywood shopping mall.

    I can’t write this whole love-fest article about Vegas without talking about food.  You could spend the rest of you life just getting Lost in the Las Vegas food scene. You can spend $2 or $200 or $2000.  There is something for every pallet and wallet in Vegas. Now don’t be shy.  Just because you are solo doesn’t meant you shouldn’t eat well!  Every Celebrity Chef you can think of has a place in Vegas.  These Chefs are, of course, not actually in the kitchen.  So you are paying for the name.  I’ve dined at many of these places not always successfully.  I will give a big thumbs up though to Tom Collichio’s Craft Steak at the MGM and

    Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill at Caesar’s Palace and Hubert Keller’s Fleur at Mandalay Bay.

    Vegas Tip:  Check out Top Vegas restaurants and tons of other great information at my favorite Vegas website www.lasvegas.com

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    High Roller Wheel

    Some of the best food I’ve had in Las Vegas are in places where you never heard of the Chef;  Hash House A Go Go at the Plaza in Fremont (two other locations as well),  Picasso at Bellagio, The Buffet at the Bellagio, the Oyster Bar at Harrah’s, The Border Grill at the Mandalay Bay,  Lotus of Siam off strip, and Mon Abi Gabi at Paris, Indian Oven off strip and the iconic Peppermill.

    So I survived my four days solo in sin city and I can highly recommend getting lost in Las Vegas, alone or with a friend.  You can make Vegas whatever you want; highly charged and fast paced, or slow down relax and enjoy the scenery.  It’s a bit of a freak of nature in that way –  well, that’s Vegas.

    Loose yourself. Solo or not.