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Five Days

    Africa & The Middle East Travel

    Five Days Fes to Marakesh

    Chapter Eleven Comes to an End

    Location: Morocco

    One month in Morocco has been marvelous.  We have seen so very much, and still there is much to see – so we will return one day.  But for now, I am so happy to have experienced this magical and friendly country – especially the past five days as we have traversed the diverse geography from Fes to Marrakesh.

    We hired a guide to show us parts of Morocco we

    With our guide Abdul

    would find difficult to reach on our own – and I am so glad we did.  Our fantastic guide Abdul from Your Morocco Tours was amazing(5 days only $250 per person).  He safely drove us for five days and was funny, interesting and proud of his country and his heritage.

    Have I mentioned how friendly everyone is?  

    Ziz Valley

    With our friends Steve and Sarah we left Fes on a Saturday morning for the long but beautiful drive.  We began to climb into the mountains only a few hours out of Fes.  Eventually we made it to the beautiful Ziz Valley.  Here we began to see the red rocks and reddish pink buildings I had always imagined when I thought of Morocco.  Although the white and blue and green and grey we had seen up to this time was beautiful in its own way – this red color of the desert against the green of

    Desert sunset

    the date palm trees made me feel I was part of a movie set.

    Have I mentioned how great all the roads are?

    After a long day of driving we arrived in the desert, just in time for a spectacular sunset over the Sahara.  It was breathtaking.  I didn’t want it to end.  Awash in orange from sand to sky it was spectacular.

    We then continued a short distance into the dunes to our spectacular hotel called Kasbah Azalay.  Stunning.  How can this be our hotel when we paid so little for this tour?  Not only was it pretty in a very Moroccan way but the service and hospitality was perfect.  We enjoyed a lovely tagine for dinner

    On the camels

    and a good nights sleep.

    A more leisurely day was on hand for Sunday and after breakfast we climbed the dunes and shopped for scarfs in the town of Merzouga.  We then enjoyed a visit to the village of Kamila where we sipped mint tea and listened to the authentic Gnaoua music of the region performed by the ancestors of the original Sudanese slaves who were brought here five hundred years ago.  Their efforts to preserve their culture and music are commendable and we danced and had a great time with them.

    Have I mentioned that this country, more than any other, is where I want to buy things – pottery, rugs, leather? I am restraining myself.

    Late in the afternoon we arrived at the staging area for our camel trek into the desert.  To be completely accurate it’s actually a dromedary trek.  Camels are the beasts with two humps.  The animals with one hump are technically dromedaries, but everyone calls them camels so, hey, whatever!

    On the camel trek with arne

    I wasn’t really sure how this was going to go – was it scary? Painful? Smelly?  Actually, it was a teeny bit painful – but mostly just fun.   The dromedaries were not smelly, they didn’t spit or bite, but once you are sitting up on one, you realize this ain’t no horse.  Wow.  They lumber along and your leg muscles feel the movement, but honestly the next day it was my arms that were sore, from trying to hold on when the camel goes down a hill, or sits down.

    There were ten of us riding and after an hour and half on the camel, including a stop to watch another spectacular Sahara sunset, we arrived at the nomad camp.  We were assigned tents with beds and served tea while we waited for another group of 18 to arrive.  When they did we all had dinner together (tagine) and then a bonfire and music around the fire.  By this time the temperature had plummeted and we put all our clothes on including wool socks and hats and snuggled under the covers for the night.

    Have I mentioned there are more stars in the sky in Morocco?  Billions.

    Wake up at 6am and you immediately feel the pain in your legs (and crotch) and arms.  Yikes.  But back on the camel we go, even before I get a cup of coffee.  Ugh.  I was hoping my camel knew the way to the nearest Starbucks, but instead he took us out of camp into the dunes to watch the sunrise.  Surreal.  And way better than Starbucks.

    Dunes

    After the sunrise and a thousand more photos we were back in the saddle and headed back to town, where we were served a nice breakfast (with plenty of coffee) and had a hot shower before we reconnected with our guide Abdul and began day three of our tour.

    We drove away from the dunes and into the amazing Moroccan red rock canyons and gorges.  A

    Todgha Gorge

    truly surprising area of Morocco I had never even heard of.  The Todgha Gorge was stunning and we enjoyed it late in the afternoon where the 1000 foot walls had sunlight on the tops, but the river was in the shadow of the mountains.  We also visited a remarkable fossil museum where we learned about

    Fossils

    the 500 million year old ocean fossils found in this area and another place where we learned about the ingenious well and aqueduct system the Berber people built to access and save water from the

    Ancient wells

    Atlas mountains 300 years ago.

    Have I mentioned  how diverse the geography is? From ocean to desert to mountains to rivers to lakes.

    Finally we arrived in the Dades Gorge, another amazing marvel of Mother Nature, where our hotel for the night was perched on a cliff overlooking the valley below.  We enjoyed an authentic Moroccan couscous meal and met a nice couple from Seattle and swapped stories before a good nights sleep.

    Up and on our way in the morning we drove to see

    Monkey Feet

    more ancient Kasbahs perched in the Dades Gorge and throughout the red rock region and stopped to view the geological wonder called Monkey’s Feet.  A geology uplift of rock that is unique to this area and impossible to describe.  And yes, it did look a bit like the bottom of a monkey’s foot.

    Midday we visited one of the best preserved Kasbahs in Morocco, the Amerhidil – built-in the 17th century and in remarkable condition.  Given that most of this construction is made from mud and straw bricks, finding well-preserved ones of this age is unusual.  We toured the building, ate a delicious lunch of grilled turkey kebab and then headed on our way to our hotel.

    This night we stayed in another very beautiful boutique hotel with exceptional customer service.  Everywhere we go the people are so kind and helpful and that is the case at Riad Tama.  Big rooms, and a beautiful garden and a lovely restaurant where we enjoyed a a French inspired dinner.

    Have I mentioned a Dar is a house, a Riad means garden but is often used to refer to a hotel or house with a garden?

    Day five- our final day began early at 8:30 with our fabulous guide Abdul as we headed off to the

    Kasar Air Ben Haddou

    famous and well-preserved Kasar of Air Ben Haddou where we spent a couple of hours walking with an incredible guide who had been raised in this village. Morocco has a big film industry and this place is one that is often featured in many films including Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, and Jewel of the Nile.

    Have I mentioned a kasbah is a house of a rich family usually with four towers while a kasar is a fortified village with more than one kasbah?

    Our final day continued with another spectacular

    All together and a wonderful time.

    drive with surprising scenery and geography over the Tizi Tichka Pass to the famous city of Marrakesh – our final stop of our Morocco adventure.  We will be in Marrakesh for three days.

    We loved our tour!  An inspiring experience in a magical place.

    In the future when I think of Morocco I will certainly remember the cities we have visited (Casablanca, Chefchaouen, Tangier, Asilah, Fes and Marrakesh) but I think it will be the rural areas I will remember most fondly.  The desert is such a special place to be, and to be able to sleep there and see the stars at night and ride the camels – unforgettable.  The gorges and red rocks and Kasbahs of old are like something out of a movie set (and some are) but they are real.  And beautiful.  And cherished by the wonderful Moroccan people.

    Five Days from Fes to Marrakesh.  What an experience.  What a lucky girl.  What a life.

    Fabulous!

     

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review Circle of Days by Ken Follett

    If I was asked what author I might sit down with and have a beer – I do think I would chose Ken Follett. He is an absolute master and I am a huge fan particularly of his historical fiction. He also is prolific, with over 35 books written since his debut novel The Big Needle in 1974. A hero in my book world – I adore the Kingsbridge series. And his latest work is just as brilliant. Here is my book review Circle of Days by Ken Follett.

    Stonehenge

    Have you been to Stonehenge (estimated to have begun in 3100 BC) I have been twice and it is the kind of place where you have to remind yourself its not fake. Not Disney. Like the Pyramids of Egypt (2700 BC) or Gobekli Tepe Turkiye built in 9500 BC, Stonehenge challenges our minds with the how? How could ancient peoples with no mechanical equipment have created this?

    In the Circle of Day, Ken Follett imagines it for us in an engaging and beautiful novel full of Follett’s signature intrigue and angst. True to form we encounter good and evil, love and religion and most of all, hope.

    Characters

    In an era where hard work and ingenuity is what it takes to survive, we meet Seft. Born to a flint miner family but talented and capable to be more. He is brilliant with the mind of an engineer. At the Midsummer’s Festival he falls in love with Neen from a herder family. Despite their different classes, they find a way to become a family.

    Neen’s sister Joia knows she is destined for something…something great. Her mother sees it too. And when the Midsummer Monument is set ablaze by warring factions, Joia knows her destiny. She will become a High Preistess and dedicate her life to creating giant stone monument.

    Factions and Fractures

    The work will take decades and as a drought ravages the land, the once peaceful region will be plagued with violence between the farmers, herders and woodlanders. It is a time of great sorrow, hunger and uncertainty. Can hard work, perseverance and love conquer all?

    Follett Formula

    Follett certainly has a formula, and although a bit predictable I was still on the edge of my seat as we rooted for the good guys and cursed the bad. A remarkable book and a must read for 2026. If you haven’t been to Stonehenge, you will certainly want to visit after reading Circle of Days by Ken Follett.

    Book Review Circle of Days by Ken Follett

    Thank you for reading my book review Circle of Days by Ken Follett. See last week’s book review The Road to Tender Hearts by Annie Hartnet.

    *****Five stars for Circle of Days by Ken Follett.

    We are always grateful when you help us battle the annoying algorithm by commenting, sharing and pinning our book reviews. Thank you.

    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review Five Quarters of the Orange by Joanne Harris

    Reading Wednesday

    I have never read Harris’ more well-known novel Chocolat, but I think I should now because I truly loved this book. Here is my book review Five Quarters of the Orange by JoAnne Harris.

    France During the War

    The place is a tiny village on the Loire River in France during the German occupation in World War II. This is a place where a terrible tragedy occurs. Who is responsible for this terrible tragedy and how does it change the lives of so many people? This will unfold in the pages of Five Quarters of the Orange.

    Framboise is nine years old the summer of the tragedy. A precocious but naive young girl, whose disdain for her mother leads her to create often cruel ways that put her sensitive mother to bed for days – allowing Framboise and her older siblings to run about the village unsupervised. Framboise summer goal is to catch the mysterious giant Loire River pike called Old Mother, but she unexpectedly finds herself developing a crush on a German soldier.

    The Tragedy

    Framboise mother, Mirabelle Dartigen, is looked on by the villagers as “unusual” and perhaps even a witch for her odd behavior. Mirabelle keeps a scrapbook of recipes that also serves as somewhat of a journal and will play an important role in unraveling the events of that fateful summer.

    The family is run out of the village at the end of the summer, but decades later Framboise returns. She hopes to lead a quiet life and not be recognized as the daughter of Mirabelle Dartigen. But her secret begins to unravel as she runs a small local creperie and her nephew and his wife go to great lengths to get their hands on the infamous recipe book.

    Redemption

    This is a dark story about mothers and daughters. It is a book about being young and naive and living with our mistakes. This is a novel about food, family, and facing the past to have peace in the present. I enjoyed it very much. I hope you enjoyed my book review Five Quarters of the Orange by Joanne Harris.

    *****Five stars for Five Quarters of the Orange

    Read last week’s review of The Music of Bees

    My current read About Grace

    We love it when you pin and share our book reviews.

    Inspire

    Message From Cyprus Edition Five

    Blessings, Grief and Goals

    Location: Argaka Cyprus

    The Numbers

    Day 34 on Cyprus – Day 30 in Quarantine/Lockdown

    April 11 th marked seven months since we left the USA

    Cyprus Virus Cases as of today 620 – Deaths 13

    See below for latest news and developments from the island under lockdown.

    Blessings

    It’s Easter Sunday and I’m determined to count my blessings all day…and especially in this message before I move on to the other details of our lockdown life. There are many blessings and I remind myself this when I am falling down the rabbit hole of too much news, too much worry and too much social media. I am blessed;

    • I’m healthy and safe
    • Although I know some people with the virus, they are all acquaintances of acquaintances and so far none of my family or close circle of friends have been afflicted. That I know of.
    • My husband is with me
    • I can talk to my family and friends regularly
    • Cyprus is beautiful
    • Our villa and hosts have been exceptional
    • I have been to 110 countries and if I never get to travel again, well I have been to 110 countries and I am blessed.

    It may be Easter in most of the world, but it’s not Easter here in Cyprus. We actually get to celebrate Easter twice. Small blessing. Today we celebrate on the day most of the Christian world celebrates and next Sunday the Orthodox Easter is celebrated. It’s something to look forward to, although we won’t leave the house for either of these holidays. Blessings.

    Easter Blessings
    Easter Blessings

    Grief Becomes Goals

    Like a big heavy wet blanket, grief is oppressive as it lays on our lives. I’m aware how many people have been feeling this way, and I have too. We are grieving for our past lives and for things familiar. Recognizing what this emotion is is definitely the healthiest step we can make, and recognizing the chapters and long road we face ahead is important.

    On my run this morning I was remembering my personal battle of grief when my brother died. I was highly functioning for months following his death, handling all the gruesome details of my brother’s sudden death, pushing my grief away. There was a very poignant moment for me, when, feeling sorry for myself I was thinking how much I wanted things to just go back to normal. Normal.

    What is normal after a loss, tragedy, crisis? It was that moment that I instinctively knew the answer to one of life’s most difficult questions. There never will be a normal of old. It’s gone, just like yesterday and two minutes ago. Can’t get it back. A new normal develops…and we gradually accept and live in it.

    I think I’m making positive steps towards the new normal, as I have found myself much more engaged in trying to keep busy and definitely looking at what life will look like going forward. Blessings.

    Goals
    Keepimg Busy

    Healthy Body and Mind

    The movie Wall-E keeps running through my mind, where the human race needs to leave planet earth to let it heal. Remember? And they all live on some kind of Starship Enterprise, getting fat, and lazy and stupid.

    Oh dear.

    I am still finding it difficult to focus on reading…of all things. I should be devouring books, but I’m not. But I have found something else to take my mind off of the bad news. I’ve never allowed myself the time to listen to podcasts, take webinars, or sign up for classes on line. This past week I have done all of those things. And I have learned so much and it feels great.

    Most of the learning I’m doing online is geared towards this blog (although I snuk in a cooking class)…how might this blog look in the months and years ahead with the changes in travel? How can I keep it viable and interesting, inspiring and fun? I took a class about Pinterest and Tailwind and am considering doing an online Tailwind consulting. Tailwind has always baffled me so I kind of ignore it. I also took a wonderful webinar about Instagram and learned some fun new things. Additionally I took a live online class with other bloggers about search engine optimization and affiliate options for bloggers. BTW check out my new and improved Pinterest account here. It’s pretty.

    These are all things I never paid much attention to…but now I am learning and finding it really fascinating. Keeping my mind open to learning. I’m doing yoga and have a new app for that too and I’ve begun training for a half marathon. No Wall-E for this girl. Blessings.

    Hiking on Mauritius
    Keeping Positive

    Latest Cyprus News

    A lot of things happened this week on the island. First, the stay home lockdown has been extended to April 30 th, same as the USA. Easter has been “postponed” until May, as the government tries to get the Church to agree to not hold Easter services. A big task in this very religious country.

    We still need to ask permission to leave the house, which we do via text. We went to the grocery store this week, and were stopped by the police at a road block. We had to show our “permission” to be out, and then we were flagged through. If we didn’t have that authorization, we would each be fined $300. Thousands of citations have been given over the past few weeks and one man has been arrested for some kind of fake SMS scheme he was running.

    There was a flight that left Cyprus this week to Stockholm. We considered taking it, but decided against it. We would have needed to stay the night in Stockholm, take a second flight to London, stay the night in London and then take a third flight to Seattle. This did not seem like a healthy or safe scenario so we decided to wait.

    We received a phone call from the Embassy checking on us. They were trying to determine the level of “need” each American has. This is good, the most interest they have shown in our welfare. We are aware that there are many people who have much more urgent reasons to get back to the USA (jobs, kids etc) than we do. We are also aware of some cases where people are running out of money and need to get out. We do not fall into those categories. We continue to be safe and comfortable. Blessings.

    You may have seen the interview that I did with Q13 News in Seattle this week. It was fun to tell our story, even if they did pronounce my name wrong. It’s okay – not the first time I’ve been called Loud. 🙂

    In our original itinerary we would have been touring the Caucasus right now; Armenia. Georgia and Azerbaijan. But we aren’t so no point in dwelling on it. It’s the new normal.

    Still waiting for Airbnb to make it right by us. Flights we had in May have now all been canceled. Unfortunately they are giving credit not cash. Ugh.

    My gut tells me we will be here until May…assuming the airport opens in early May. At that time we will determine a plan of action. But until then, we will certainly consider any possible flight that comes available, but more likely we will spend our days here, waiting like the rest of the world. Blessings.

    Stay safe my friends. Be good to each other. Happy Easter.

    Cyprus Lockdown
    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review Five Presidents by Clint Hill

    Reading Wednesday

    Location: Reading Wednesday

    This story is truly incredible.  But so is the way I stumbled onto this book.

    I follow Mike Rowe on Facebook…you know the funny “Dirty Jobs” guy in the baseball hat.  A month or more ago I saw a post from Mike Rowe about meeting a guy in a bar.  An older gentleman who ordered a drink called a “Clint”.  When the bartender was puzzled, the man pulled a card from his pocket, on one side was his name and information and on the other, the recipe for his favorite and personal drink the “Clint”.

    Of course Mike Rowe was intrigued and they struck up a conversation.  I don’t know how long the spoke but I do know Rowe was flabbergasted to find that he was sitting next to a man who had first hand experience at some of our countries most poignant and sorrowful moments.  Mr. Clint Hill, who served five Presidents in the Secret Service.  Mr. Clint Hill, who infamously is the agent clinging to the back of the convertible while Jackie Kennedy reaches across the trunk of that car to collect pieces of her husbands brain.

    Yes that man.  He ordered a “Clint”.

    Rowe later writes about his meeting Hill on his Facebook page, and suddenly sales of his book “Five Presidents” rockets on Amazon.  I am one of those people who purchased the book for my Kindle and I learn that Hill has also written two other best sellers “Five Days in November” and “Me and Mrs.Kennedy”.

    So that is how I came to find this book.  And once I started it I couldn’t put it down.  Writing with the help of author Lisa McCubbin, Hill describes his incredible life as a secret service agent, beginning with President Eisenhower and ending with President Ford…through some of this nations most turbulent times; assasinations, civil rights, Cuban Missile Crisis, Vietnam, Watergate and so much more – Clint Hill had a front row seat to it all.

    It’s funny because I never really thought that much about what these men (and now women) sacrifice in the line of duty.  Hill admittedly left the service when the unnamed (at the time) post traumatic stress disorder drove him to alcohol.  He sacrificed seeing his children grow as he traveled all over the world.  He slept little and gave 110% every day of his long career.

    And it all is spelled-out in the fascinating book about a fascinating man and his fascinating journey.

    Five stars for Five Presidents.  A remarkable read.

    Read last week’s review of Nectar in a Sieve

    Asia & Oceania Travel

    Seven Boats, Three Days, One Rare Bangladesh

    One for the record books – our visit to Bangladesh

    Location: Bangladesh

    Throw back Monday! Enjoy this one from a year ago once again. One of my favorite experiences.

    We would not have normally come to Bangladesh, except the opportunity was here because our friend Natalie is a teacher in Dhaka.  I preach frequently the need to visit less tourism developed places – and yet am guilty of wanting to see places like the Taj Mahal, the Great Wall of China, Table Mountain.

    One rare Bangladesh

    Beautiful Bangladeshi dancer

    And so our decision to visit Bangladesh helped us make the leap to a place no one goes, except our friend Natalie.

    We connected with Deshghuri Tours – one of a handful of tour companies catering to the few Westerners who come here, mostly Canadians, Germans and

    One rare Bangladesh

    Fort Lalbagh

    Americans.  Because our time was short we booked a three-day tour with Deshghuri.  It’s difficult to see Bangladesh without a guide.  The cities are crowded and Dhaka is plagued with air pollution.  Driving here is, shall we say, daunting.  So a tour is a must.

    Our first day was to see the densely packed city of Dhaka – home to 20 million people.  Bangladesh is the 8th most populous country in the world and

    One rare bangladesh

    At the beautiful mosaic mosque

    Dhaka has a density of 23,234 people per square kilometer within a total area of 300 square kilometers.  We spent the day weaving in and out of traffic, but also enjoying getting in and out of the car to see some remarkable sites; mosques, temples, university, and the 600-year-old Lalbagh Fort that serves as a lovely oasis in the city.  It was here we really began to feel how unusual it is to have a westerner walking around Dhaka.  Bangladeshi

    One rare bangladesh

    From on board the Rocket Steamer looking at the busy port

    stopped and gaped at us, some asking for selfies, others discreetly taking our photo without asking.  Very strange.

    At the end of the day we arrived in Shadarghat, the steamer terminal and one of the busiest places in Dhaka (which is saying something).  Here we

    One rare Bangladesh

    Rocket Steamer

    boarded our first of seven boats: the 100-year-old “Rocket” paddle wheeler that plies the waters of the Buriganga River.  These boats were, in their time, the fastest thing to ever hit these waters (thus the name), but today faster and more upgraded ferries provide service.  The Rocket continues to work however, and tours often include a night aboard these vessels for the “experience”.  It was definitely an experience as we were on one of the oldest and most worn down vessels.

    On arrival in Barisal early the morning of day two of

    One rare banhladesh

    Nine dome mosque

    our tour we were met by our new guide Ontu.  After breakfast we went by car three hours to Bagherhat, a UNESCO world heritage city and one of the most historic cities in Bangladesh. On the way to Bagherhat we rode a very small and crowded car ferry which is boat number two.   On reaching Bagerhat we toured three remarkable mosques, built in the 15th century!  All still in use today. Two of these mosques were a

    One rare Bangladesh

    80 dome mosque

    remarkable architecture design of domes rather than minarets.  The first was a nine dome and the second was an 80 dome mosque.  Truly fascinating for the time period and in wonderful condition considering the climate and the years.

    We continued by car to Mongla, where we boarded

    One rare bangladesh

    Crossing the river

    boat number three:  a small wooden pirogue which we stood in to cross the very busy river.  On the other side we boarded boat number four, known as a country boat.  It was just the two of us with our guide and we sat back and enjoyed cruising the river on this small 20-foot boat.  We enjoyed a

    One rare Bangladesh

    The country boat

    traditional Bangla lunch onboard, then went ashore at the Sundarban’s breeding sanctuary where we saw deer and crocodiles and walked the mangrove forest.

    Back on the boat and back to Mongla where we

    One are bangladesh

    On the river

    met the car, returned to Barisal (including car ferry-boat number five) and to our hotel in Barisal.  It had been a very amazing day.

    Day three we were up early, and instead of car we were in a Tuk Tuk before the sun had risen, driving an hour from Barisal to the banks of the Shondha River. Here we would board boat number six, a long deep river dwelling vessel,  for what would turn out to be my favorite part of our

    One rare Bangladesh

    Floating vegetable market

    tour.  Cruising through the backwater region of the Shondha we enjoyed the floating vegetable market as well as seeing the river people going about their daily life – scratching out an existence on and in

    One rare Bangladesh

    Meeting the friendly locals

    the river.  The river is both highway and washing machine, bathtub and food source.  We got off the boat several times, including a visit to an ancient and scrabbled together Hindu village where the people were so kind and generous and interested in us.  When we tell them we are from

    One rare Bangladesh

    Meeting the locals

    the United States they say it is their honor to have us in their country.  This is the Bangladeshi way – welcoming, kind and generous; even if they have nothing to give, they will offer you a cup of tea.

    It was particularly interesting to me how astonished everyone – men, women and children – were with my white hair.  They found it fascinating and we felt like celebrities.  Very

    One rare Bangladesh

    Laundry

    humbling experience.

    We learned a lot about river life, about the kindness of strangers, about how important community is to this ancient way of life.  We learned about religion (Islam is the largest religion of Bangladesh; Muslims constitute over 90% of the population, while Hindus constitute 8.5% and Buddhists 0.6% are the most significant minorities of the country. Christians, Sikhs, animists and atheists form 1%), we learned about food, we learned about education.

    One rare Bangladesh

    River life

    But mostly we learned about how much we take for granted.

    Saying farewell to our boat driver we were back in the Tuk Tuk for the hour ride back to Barisal where

    One rare Bangladesh

    Iron workers at the market. They asked us to stay for tea.

    we had time to tour the market before our departure.  The market was remarkable to me mostly because not a single tourist item was there.  This was perhaps the most authentic market I have been to (except for Ethiopia and Burkina Faso).  In fact I have not even been able to find a postcard in this country – a sign of how small the tourism

    One rare Bangladesh

    Beautiful Bangladesh

    industry is here.

    We said goodbye to our wonderful guide and boarded a river ferry, faster and more modern than the Rocket, for the overnight return to Dhaka. Boat number seven.

    Seven boats, three days, one rare Bangladesh.  I’ll not forget my time here.  Unique, remarkable, rewarding and above all, humbling.

     

    North America Travel  --  South & Central America Travel

    Merida A Cultural Gem In Yucatan Mexico

    Location: Yucatan Peninsula

    Someone asked me recently how many UNESCO sites we have visited? Oh my goodness. A LOT. Yes I should try to add that up, but there are thousands and thousands and we have certainly been blessed to see hundreds. And Merida Yucatan is new addition to the list. We had five days in this beautiful city, and here are my recommendations, Merida A Cultural Gem in Yucatan Mexico.

    Enjoying Plaza Mayor in Merida and the unique confident or kissing chairs through out the city

    The Mayans

    I have been intrigued by the Mayan Culture since I was in grade school. As a traveler we have explored many of this civilization’s vast and interesting sites. A little history lesson for you; The Maya civilization is significantly older than the Aztec, with the Maya developing complex societies from around 2000 BC and reaching their Classic Period peak (250–900 AD) long before the Aztec Empire’s rise in the 14th century, though both cultures thrived in Mesoamerica and influenced each other. 

    The Maya civilization developed in the Maya Region, an area that today comprises southeastern Mexico, all of Guatemala and Belize, and the western portions of Honduras and El Salvador. (Wikipedia)

    Maya Civilization region was vast (Wikipedia)

    By the time the Spanish arrived in what we now call Mexico, the Maya people had left their ruling communities such as Chichen Itza (more on this later) but their descendants were still in the region. The Aztecs however had risen to power, and it is their civilization that the Spanish decimated on arrival. And yet today, many people of the area can trace their heritage to both Maya and Aztec ancestors.

    Merida History

    Merida’s history blends Mayan heritage with Spanish conquest. Founded in 1542 by Francisco de Montejo on the ancient Mayan city of T’ho, the Spanish used stones from the ruins of T’ho for colonial buildings, creating a unique fusion seen in its architecture. The city became a significant colonial hub. In the 1800’s the process of turning sisal (henequen ) into rope and twine created a very wealthy class of merchants. The wealth is evident today in grand mansions on Paseo de Montejo. Merida in the 21st Century is a vibrant cultural capital, preserving Mayan traditions, distinct cuisine, and colonial charm, making  Merida A Cultural Gem in Yucatan Mexico.

    Paseo de Montejo

    Things to do in the City

    Take a guided walking tour or do a self guided tour like we did using GPS My City. Highlights for us included:

    Plaza Mayor – the main square of old town Merida where people gather day and night and festivals and events take place regularly.

    Cathedral de Merida – right on the Plaza Mayor you will find a beautiful cathedral that graces the city, dating back to 1540. It is said to be the second oldest Cathedral in Latin America.

    Casa de los Montejo – dating back to 1540, this historic gem has served as a mansion for generations and today houses a bank and museum. Pay particular attention to the ornate facade.

    Cathedral de Merida
    Casa de los Montejo

    Mercado Lucas de Gálvez is the largest and most central market in Mérida, spanning 45,000 square meters and hosting over 2,000 vendors. Just steps from Plaza Grande, it’s a key destination for local produce, street food, crafts, and daily essentials in the historic city center. I have been to A LOT of markets around the world, and this one blew my mind. Don’t miss it. And while you are in the area, walk through the streets surrounding the Mercado, where the locals do their shopping. It’s like a completely different city than the tourism zone.

    Mercado Lucas de Gálvez
    Colorful and lively Mercado Lucas de Gálvez

    Government Palace – don’t expect a bureaucratic building, this lime green gem is home to a fantastic art collection that you must not miss.

    Government Palace
    Art collection tells the story of the people of the region in large beautiful mural style paintings by Fernando Castro Pacheco

    Church of the Third Order of Jesus – look closely at the exterior of this cathedral and you can see how it was built (like much of this city) with stones from the Mayan pyramids of Th’o.

    Moorish House – a little off the beaten path but worth making the short detour, this beautiful building has been recently restored and expanded. Over the years it has served as the US Consulate, a maternity hospital and a private home.

    Church of the Third Order of Jesus
    Moorish House

    Paseo de Montejo – Stretching from Santa Ana to the center of Merida, this avenue is where residents have strolled for generations. Home to many of the palaces built during the wealthy sisal period, it is also home to restaurants and shops. Be sure to check out Camara Houses, Canton Palace (home of the Yucatan Regional Museum) and Quinta Mones Molina House with a really interesting museum and self guided tour.

    Camara Houses
    Canton Palace home to the Yucatan Regional Museum
    Quinta Mones Molina House
    Quinta Mones Molina House Museum

    Day Trips Outside the City

    East

    Chichen Itza – less than two hour drive from Merida is the UNESCO World Heritage archeology site of Chichen Itza. This complex of Mayan ruins includes a massive step pyramid, known as El Castillo or Temple of Kukulcan. Chichen Itza thrived from around 600 A.D. to the 1200s. Graphic stone carvings survive at structures like the ball court, Temple of the Warriors and the Wall of the Skulls.  There are tour buses and private tours available from Merida. I recommend you arrive before they open at 8am to beat the crowds. The large tour buses arrive around 9am.

    El Castillo Chichen Itzá
    Chichen Itza
    Ball Court Chichen Itza

    Izamal – many Chichen Itza tours also stop for a brief visit to the “Yellow City” of Izamal. I would not recommend a special trip to Izamal, but a brief stop on a Chichen Itza tour is nice. We wandered the colonial streets and convent area, built on top of a Maya settlement from 2000 years ago.

    Izamal Yucatan

    Southeast

    Cenotes – the Yucatan Peninsula is home to 10,500 cenotes (at least). These are a collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes groundwater. The term is a Mayan word originating on the Yucatán Peninsula, where the ancient Maya commonly used cenotes for water supplies, and occasionally for sacrificial offerings. The small town of Homun near Merida is home to multiple cenotes open to the public. You can visit these on your own, but we chose to go with a full day tour, which took us to four beautiful cenotes. We swam in the beautiful crystal clear blue water under ground. It was a great day.

    Cenote in Homun
    Fully underground Cenote lit with artificial lighting
    Very large Cenote at Santa Rosa
    San Antonio Cenote

    Southwest

    Campeche – this beautiful ancient walled city is about two hours from Merida. It is one of the reasons we chose Merida as a central hub to stay and access many things in the surrounding region. I have had my eye on Campeche for some time. This Spanish Colonial city, once a walled fortress, dates back to the 16th century. We really enjoyed the colorful town, walking the remaining wall, the cathedral, the historic fort and the Gulf of Mexico. Being on the sea, the seafood in Campeche is also great, and we had a marvelous lunch at Marganzo Restaurante. Campeche warrants a couple of days if you have the time to spare.

    Colorful Spanish Colonial Campeche
    On the fortress wall
    Seafood at Marganzo

    Becal Jipajapa

    I saved the best for last. We visited Becal to see the art of Jipajapa hat making. This was my favorite thing we did during our Yucatan visit. Becal is an hour from Merida and we made the stop on our way to Campeche. We visited a tiny local museum to learn about the iconic Jipajapa artistic hat making (also known as Panama Hat). Jipijapa refers primarily to a type of high-quality, handwoven hat made from the leaves of the Carludovica palmata plant. The best part though was visiting a local third generation family artisan workshop.

    Chari making a work of art in the cave. The wooden block hat form she is using was handed down from her grandma’s grandma

    Here we were given a private demonstration of how the fibers are grown, dried, processed and dyed. Then lovely Chari, known around the world for her Jipa talent, gave us a one on one demonstration. We sat in the cool underground cave where the hats are made to keep the fiber moist while handling it. It’s difficult to describe how incredible her nimble fingers are as she created her works of art. Of course I went home with a hat of my own. Do not miss visiting Chari when you are in Becal. Ask your guide to take you to Lool Jipa Chari.

    Fibers used for the hats
    The colors are made from natural dyes
    Press molds are used for certain hats
    My new work of art

    Eating and Sleeping

    We spent five night in Merida. The Casa Continental Hotel in the Santa Ana neighborhood of the historic center was a great find. Just outside the busiest area, but close enough to walk to everything. Really kind staff and the rooms were just beautiful. We paid just over $70 USD per night.

    Casa Continental
    Rooftop pool at Casa Continental
    Lobby at Casa Continental

    Breakfast

    We opted most mornings to have fruit and yogurt in our room. We did have an amazing breakfast on our first morning, right across the street from our hotel at Marmalade. Highly recommend.

    Chilaquiles at Marmalade
    Mexican Hot Chocolate at Marmalade

    Lunch

    It’s always good to eat where the locals eat and we had amazing, cheap tacos at Taqueria de La Union. We also enjoyed our first ever Gorditas at Gordita Dona Gorda. Watch the ladies make your Gordita as you wait. Fast, cheap, delicious.

    Interesting new-to-us tacos like Turkey in black mole sauce at Taqueria de La Union
    Made to order Gorditas at Gordita Dona Gorda

    Dinner

    We headed to Chaya Maya for an authentic Mayan meal and we were not disappointed. Favorite new-to-me foods were the dip made from pumpkin seeds called sikil pak. I also loved the melt in your mouth pork dish marinated in sour orange and achiote called Cochinita Pibil. You must try these dishes when in the Yucatan. I found this recipe online and will make Cochinita Pibil at home.

    Sikil pak on the left
    Cochinita Pibil

    We loved our simple and healthy dinner at La Santanita near our hotel. We ate here on our first night, and I was introduced to Lime Soup, a local specialty. The chicken and lime combination was superb. I highly recommend. Here is a recipe for Yucatan Lime Soup I found online. This is an easy one to try at home.

    Superb and comforting Lime Soup

    Our best meal in Merida was at Teya Santa Lucia. We sat in the outdoor courtyard on a beautiful evening. Instead of entrees we shared several appetizers. We loved the pumpkin dip sikil pak, sausages and panuchos (a fried tortilla stuffed with beans).

    sikil pak
    Mezcal and Lime
    The courtyard at Hacienda Teya

    How Long Should You Stay in Merida

    It became apparent to us very quickly that there are many “snowbirds” or possibly full time American/Canadian expats in Merida. Not surprising as the weather is mild and comfortable from December to March, but summer can be very hot and muggy. The rainy months are June and July.

    We spent five nights in Merida and we were on the go everyday. I think I would enjoy a full month in this pretty city, to enjoy more of the cuisine and culture. But if you only have three – five days you can see a lot, just as we did. There is more too, so stay as long as you can in Merida A Cultural Gem In Yucatan Mexico

    Colorful door in Campeche

    How to Get to Merida

    We arrived by hired car from Cancun, but there are direct flights from the United States and Mexico City. When we left Merida we flew on Viva Air (a very inexpensive no-frill airline) to Querataro then drove on to San Miguel de Allende. Merida is becoming a bigger tourism destination and a new train has also been recently opened that connects Merida to Campeche and Cancun, but schedules are still limited. Learn more about the Mayan Train here. Private buses are also a good option for getting around within Mexico.

    Merida A Cultural Gem In Yucatan Mexico

    Thank you for reading my post Merida A Cultural Gem In Yucatan Mexico. We loved our time in Merida, our second stop on a month long tour of Mexico. I definitely can see us returning to this city for the culture, the food and the very friendly people, all at a price that is right. Gracias Merida. We hope to see you again soon.

    Most restaurants have Tortilla Ladies making fresh tortilla all day long

    See last week’s post Beautiful Cuba an Amazing Ten Days here.

    Keep following for more about our Mexico adventures as we continue our tour!

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    Merida
    Cenote