One month in Morocco has been marvelous. We have seen so very much, and still there is much to see – so we will return one day. But for now, I am so happy to have experienced this magical and friendly country – especially the past five days as we have traversed the diverse geography from Fes to Marrakesh.
We hired a guide to show us parts of Morocco we
With our guide Abdul
would find difficult to reach on our own – and I am so glad we did. Our fantastic guide Abdul from Your Morocco Tours was amazing(5 days only $250 per person). He safely drove us for five days and was funny, interesting and proud of his country and his heritage.
Have I mentioned how friendly everyone is?
Ziz Valley
With our friends Steve and Sarah we left Fes on a Saturday morning for the long but beautiful drive. We began to climb into the mountains only a few hours out of Fes. Eventually we made it to the beautiful Ziz Valley. Here we began to see the red rocks and reddish pink buildings I had always imagined when I thought of Morocco. Although the white and blue and green and grey we had seen up to this time was beautiful in its own way – this red color of the desert against the green of
Desert sunset
the date palm trees made me feel I was part of a movie set.
Have I mentioned how great all the roads are?
After a long day of driving we arrived in the desert, just in time for a spectacular sunset over the Sahara. It was breathtaking. I didn’t want it to end. Awash in orange from sand to sky it was spectacular.
We then continued a short distance into the dunes to our spectacular hotel called Kasbah Azalay. Stunning. How can this be our hotel when we paid so little for this tour? Not only was it pretty in a very Moroccan way but the service and hospitality was perfect. We enjoyed a lovely tagine for dinner
On the camels
and a good nights sleep.
A more leisurely day was on hand for Sunday and after breakfast we climbed the dunes and shopped for scarfs in the town of Merzouga. We then enjoyed a visit to the village of Kamila where we sipped mint tea and listened to the authentic Gnaoua music of the region performed by the ancestors of the original Sudanese slaves who were brought here five hundred years ago. Their efforts to preserve their culture and music are commendable and we danced and had a great time with them.
Have I mentioned that this country, more than any other, is where I want to buy things – pottery, rugs, leather? I am restraining myself.
Late in the afternoon we arrived at the staging area for our camel trek into the desert. To be completely accurate it’s actually a dromedary trek. Camels are the beasts with two humps. The animals with one hump are technically dromedaries, but everyone calls them camels so, hey, whatever!
On the camel trek with arne
I wasn’t really sure how this was going to go – was it scary? Painful? Smelly? Actually, it was a teeny bit painful – but mostly just fun. The dromedaries were not smelly, they didn’t spit or bite, but once you are sitting up on one, you realize this ain’t no horse. Wow. They lumber along and your leg muscles feel the movement, but honestly the next day it was my arms that were sore, from trying to hold on when the camel goes down a hill, or sits down.
There were ten of us riding and after an hour and half on the camel, including a stop to watch another spectacular Sahara sunset, we arrived at the nomad camp. We were assigned tents with beds and served tea while we waited for another group of 18 to arrive. When they did we all had dinner together (tagine) and then a bonfire and music around the fire. By this time the temperature had plummeted and we put all our clothes on including wool socks and hats and snuggled under the covers for the night.
Have I mentioned there are more stars in the sky in Morocco? Billions.
Wake up at 6am and you immediately feel the pain in your legs (and crotch) and arms. Yikes. But back on the camel we go, even before I get a cup of coffee. Ugh. I was hoping my camel knew the way to the nearest Starbucks, but instead he took us out of camp into the dunes to watch the sunrise. Surreal. And way better than Starbucks.
Dunes
After the sunrise and a thousand more photos we were back in the saddle and headed back to town, where we were served a nice breakfast (with plenty of coffee) and had a hot shower before we reconnected with our guide Abdul and began day three of our tour.
We drove away from the dunes and into the amazing Moroccan red rock canyons and gorges. A
Todgha Gorge
truly surprising area of Morocco I had never even heard of. The Todgha Gorge was stunning and we enjoyed it late in the afternoon where the 1000 foot walls had sunlight on the tops, but the river was in the shadow of the mountains. We also visited a remarkable fossil museum where we learned about
Fossils
the 500 million year old ocean fossils found in this area and another place where we learned about the ingenious well and aqueduct system the Berber people built to access and save water from the
Ancient wells
Atlas mountains 300 years ago.
Have I mentioned how diverse the geography is? From ocean to desert to mountains to rivers to lakes.
Finally we arrived in the Dades Gorge, another amazing marvel of Mother Nature, where our hotel for the night was perched on a cliff overlooking the valley below. We enjoyed an authentic Moroccan couscous meal and met a nice couple from Seattle and swapped stories before a good nights sleep.
Up and on our way in the morning we drove to see
Monkey Feet
more ancient Kasbahs perched in the Dades Gorge and throughout the red rock region and stopped to view the geological wonder called Monkey’s Feet. A geology uplift of rock that is unique to this area and impossible to describe. And yes, it did look a bit like the bottom of a monkey’s foot.
Midday we visited one of the best preserved Kasbahs in Morocco, the Amerhidil – built-in the 17th century and in remarkable condition. Given that most of this construction is made from mud and straw bricks, finding well-preserved ones of this age is unusual. We toured the building, ate a delicious lunch of grilled turkey kebab and then headed on our way to our hotel.
This night we stayed in another very beautiful boutique hotel with exceptional customer service. Everywhere we go the people are so kind and helpful and that is the case at Riad Tama. Big rooms, and a beautiful garden and a lovely restaurant where we enjoyed a a French inspired dinner.
Have I mentioned a Dar is a house, a Riad means garden but is often used to refer to a hotel or house with a garden?
Day five- our final day began early at 8:30 with our fabulous guide Abdul as we headed off to the
Kasar Air Ben Haddou
famous and well-preserved Kasar of Air Ben Haddou where we spent a couple of hours walking with an incredible guide who had been raised in this village. Morocco has a big film industry and this place is one that is often featured in many films including Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, and Jewel of the Nile.
Have I mentioned a kasbah is a house of a rich family usually with four towers while a kasar is a fortified village with more than one kasbah?
Our final day continued with another spectacular
All together and a wonderful time.
drive with surprising scenery and geography over the Tizi Tichka Pass to the famous city of Marrakesh – our final stop of our Morocco adventure. We will be in Marrakesh for three days.
We loved our tour! An inspiring experience in a magical place.
In the future when I think of Morocco I will certainly remember the cities we have visited (Casablanca, Chefchaouen, Tangier, Asilah, Fes and Marrakesh) but I think it will be the rural areas I will remember most fondly. The desert is such a special place to be, and to be able to sleep there and see the stars at night and ride the camels – unforgettable. The gorges and red rocks and Kasbahs of old are like something out of a movie set (and some are) but they are real. And beautiful. And cherished by the wonderful Moroccan people.
Five Days from Fes to Marrakesh. What an experience. What a lucky girl. What a life.
I have never read Harris’ more well-known novel Chocolat, but I think I should now because I truly loved this book. Here is my book review Five Quarters of the Orange by JoAnne Harris.
France During the War
The place is a tiny village on the Loire River in France during the German occupation in World War II. This is a place where a terrible tragedy occurs. Who is responsible for this terrible tragedy and how does it change the lives of so many people? This will unfold in the pages of Five Quarters of the Orange.
Framboise is nine years old the summer of the tragedy. A precocious but naive young girl, whose disdain for her mother leads her to create often cruel ways that put her sensitive mother to bed for days – allowing Framboise and her older siblings to run about the village unsupervised. Framboise summer goal is to catch the mysterious giant Loire River pike called Old Mother, but she unexpectedly finds herself developing a crush on a German soldier.
The Tragedy
Framboise mother, Mirabelle Dartigen, is looked on by the villagers as “unusual” and perhaps even a witch for her odd behavior. Mirabelle keeps a scrapbook of recipes that also serves as somewhat of a journal and will play an important role in unraveling the events of that fateful summer.
The family is run out of the village at the end of the summer, but decades later Framboise returns. She hopes to lead a quiet life and not be recognized as the daughter of Mirabelle Dartigen. But her secret begins to unravel as she runs a small local creperie and her nephew and his wife go to great lengths to get their hands on the infamous recipe book.
Redemption
This is a dark story about mothers and daughters. It is a book about being young and naive and living with our mistakes. This is a novel about food, family, and facing the past to have peace in the present. I enjoyed it very much. I hope you enjoyed my book review Five Quarters of the Orange by Joanne Harris.
April 11 th marked seven months since we left the USA
Cyprus Virus Cases as of today 620 – Deaths 13
See below for latest news and developments from the island under lockdown.
Blessings
It’s Easter Sunday and I’m determined to count my blessings all day…and especially in this message before I move on to the other details of our lockdown life. There are many blessings and I remind myself this when I am falling down the rabbit hole of too much news, too much worry and too much social media. I am blessed;
I’m healthy and safe
Although I know some people with the virus, they are all acquaintances of acquaintances and so far none of my family or close circle of friends have been afflicted. That I know of.
My husband is with me
I can talk to my family and friends regularly
Cyprus is beautiful
Our villa and hosts have been exceptional
I have been to 110 countries and if I never get to travel again, well I have been to 110 countries and I am blessed.
It may be Easter in most of the world, but it’s not Easter here in Cyprus. We actually get to celebrate Easter twice. Small blessing. Today we celebrate on the day most of the Christian world celebrates and next Sunday the Orthodox Easter is celebrated. It’s something to look forward to, although we won’t leave the house for either of these holidays. Blessings.
Easter Blessings
Grief Becomes Goals
Like a big heavy wet blanket, grief is oppressive as it lays on our lives. I’m aware how many people have been feeling this way, and I have too. We are grieving for our past lives and for things familiar. Recognizing what this emotion is is definitely the healthiest step we can make, and recognizing the chapters and long road we face ahead is important.
On my run this morning I was remembering my personal battle of grief when my brother died. I was highly functioning for months following his death, handling all the gruesome details of my brother’s sudden death, pushing my grief away. There was a very poignant moment for me, when, feeling sorry for myself I was thinking how much I wanted things to just go back to normal. Normal.
What is normal after a loss, tragedy, crisis? It was that moment that I instinctively knew the answer to one of life’s most difficult questions. There never will be a normal of old. It’s gone, just like yesterday and two minutes ago. Can’t get it back. A new normal develops…and we gradually accept and live in it.
I think I’m making positive steps towards the new normal, as I have found myself much more engaged in trying to keep busy and definitely looking at what life will look like going forward. Blessings.
Keepimg Busy
Healthy Body and Mind
The movie Wall-E keeps running through my mind, where the human race needs to leave planet earth to let it heal. Remember? And they all live on some kind of Starship Enterprise, getting fat, and lazy and stupid.
Oh dear.
I am still finding it difficult to focus on reading…of all things. I should be devouring books, but I’m not. But I have found something else to take my mind off of the bad news. I’ve never allowed myself the time to listen to podcasts, take webinars, or sign up for classes on line. This past week I have done all of those things. And I have learned so much and it feels great.
Most of the learning I’m doing online is geared towards this blog (although I snuk in a cooking class)…how might this blog look in the months and years ahead with the changes in travel? How can I keep it viable and interesting, inspiring and fun? I took a class about Pinterest and Tailwind and am considering doing an online Tailwind consulting. Tailwind has always baffled me so I kind of ignore it. I also took a wonderful webinar about Instagram and learned some fun new things. Additionally I took a live online class with other bloggers about search engine optimization and affiliate options for bloggers. BTW check out my new and improved Pinterest account here. It’s pretty.
These are all things I never paid much attention to…but now I am learning and finding it really fascinating. Keeping my mind open to learning. I’m doing yoga and have a new app for that too and I’ve begun training for a half marathon. No Wall-E for this girl. Blessings.
Keeping Positive
Latest Cyprus News
A lot of things happened this week on the island. First, the stay home lockdown has been extended to April 30 th, same as the USA. Easter has been “postponed” until May, as the government tries to get the Church to agree to not hold Easter services. A big task in this very religious country.
We still need to ask permission to leave the house, which we do via text. We went to the grocery store this week, and were stopped by the police at a road block. We had to show our “permission” to be out, and then we were flagged through. If we didn’t have that authorization, we would each be fined $300. Thousands of citations have been given over the past few weeks and one man has been arrested for some kind of fake SMS scheme he was running.
There was a flight that left Cyprus this week to Stockholm. We considered taking it, but decided against it. We would have needed to stay the night in Stockholm, take a second flight to London, stay the night in London and then take a third flight to Seattle. This did not seem like a healthy or safe scenario so we decided to wait.
We received a phone call from the Embassy checking on us. They were trying to determine the level of “need” each American has. This is good, the most interest they have shown in our welfare. We are aware that there are many people who have much more urgent reasons to get back to the USA (jobs, kids etc) than we do. We are also aware of some cases where people are running out of money and need to get out. We do not fall into those categories. We continue to be safe and comfortable. Blessings.
You may have seen the interview that I did with Q13 News in Seattle this week. It was fun to tell our story, even if they did pronounce my name wrong. It’s okay – not the first time I’ve been called Loud. 🙂
In our original itinerary we would have been touring the Caucasus right now; Armenia. Georgia and Azerbaijan. But we aren’t so no point in dwelling on it. It’s the new normal.
Still waiting for Airbnb to make it right by us. Flights we had in May have now all been canceled. Unfortunately they are giving credit not cash. Ugh.
My gut tells me we will be here until May…assuming the airport opens in early May. At that time we will determine a plan of action. But until then, we will certainly consider any possible flight that comes available, but more likely we will spend our days here, waiting like the rest of the world. Blessings.
Stay safe my friends. Be good to each other. Happy Easter.
This story is truly incredible. But so is the way I stumbled onto this book.
I follow Mike Rowe on Facebook…you know the funny “Dirty Jobs” guy in the baseball hat. A month or more ago I saw a post from Mike Rowe about meeting a guy in a bar. An older gentleman who ordered a drink called a “Clint”. When the bartender was puzzled, the man pulled a card from his pocket, on one side was his name and information and on the other, the recipe for his favorite and personal drink the “Clint”.
Of course Mike Rowe was intrigued and they struck up a conversation. I don’t know how long the spoke but I do know Rowe was flabbergasted to find that he was sitting next to a man who had first hand experience at some of our countries most poignant and sorrowful moments. Mr. Clint Hill, who served five Presidents in the Secret Service. Mr. Clint Hill, who infamously is the agent clinging to the back of the convertible while Jackie Kennedy reaches across the trunk of that car to collect pieces of her husbands brain.
Yes that man. He ordered a “Clint”.
Rowe later writes about his meeting Hill on his Facebook page, and suddenly sales of his book “Five Presidents” rockets on Amazon. I am one of those people who purchased the book for my Kindle and I learn that Hill has also written two other best sellers “Five Days in November” and “Me and Mrs.Kennedy”.
So that is how I came to find this book. And once I started it I couldn’t put it down. Writing with the help of author Lisa McCubbin, Hill describes his incredible life as a secret service agent, beginning with President Eisenhower and ending with President Ford…through some of this nations most turbulent times; assasinations, civil rights, Cuban Missile Crisis, Vietnam, Watergate and so much more – Clint Hill had a front row seat to it all.
It’s funny because I never really thought that much about what these men (and now women) sacrifice in the line of duty. Hill admittedly left the service when the unnamed (at the time) post traumatic stress disorder drove him to alcohol. He sacrificed seeing his children grow as he traveled all over the world. He slept little and gave 110% every day of his long career.
And it all is spelled-out in the fascinating book about a fascinating man and his fascinating journey.
Five stars for Five Presidents. A remarkable read.
Throw back Monday! Enjoy this one from a year ago once again. One of my favorite experiences.
We would not have normally come to Bangladesh, except the opportunity was here because our friend Natalie is a teacher in Dhaka. I preach frequently the need to visit less tourism developed places – and yet am guilty of wanting to see places like the Taj Mahal, the Great Wall of China, Table Mountain.
Beautiful Bangladeshi dancer
And so our decision to visit Bangladesh helped us make the leap to a place no one goes, except our friend Natalie.
We connected with Deshghuri Tours – one of a handful of tour companies catering to the few Westerners who come here, mostly Canadians, Germans and
Fort Lalbagh
Americans. Because our time was short we booked a three-day tour with Deshghuri. It’s difficult to see Bangladesh without a guide. The cities are crowded and Dhaka is plagued with air pollution. Driving here is, shall we say, daunting. So a tour is a must.
Our first day was to see the densely packed city of Dhaka – home to 20 million people. Bangladesh is the 8th most populous country in the world and
At the beautiful mosaic mosque
Dhaka has a density of 23,234 people per square kilometer within a total area of 300 square kilometers. We spent the day weaving in and out of traffic, but also enjoying getting in and out of the car to see some remarkable sites; mosques, temples, university, and the 600-year-old Lalbagh Fort that serves as a lovely oasis in the city. It was here we really began to feel how unusual it is to have a westerner walking around Dhaka. Bangladeshi
From on board the Rocket Steamer looking at the busy port
stopped and gaped at us, some asking for selfies, others discreetly taking our photo without asking. Very strange.
At the end of the day we arrived in Shadarghat, the steamer terminal and one of the busiest places in Dhaka (which is saying something). Here we
Rocket Steamer
boarded our first of seven boats: the 100-year-old “Rocket” paddle wheeler that plies the waters of the Buriganga River. These boats were, in their time, the fastest thing to ever hit these waters (thus the name), but today faster and more upgraded ferries provide service. The Rocket continues to work however, and tours often include a night aboard these vessels for the “experience”. It was definitely an experience as we were on one of the oldest and most worn down vessels.
On arrival in Barisal early the morning of day two of
Nine dome mosque
our tour we were met by our new guide Ontu. After breakfast we went by car three hours to Bagherhat, a UNESCO world heritage city and one of the most historic cities in Bangladesh. On the way to Bagherhat we rode a very small and crowded car ferry which is boat number two. On reaching Bagerhat we toured three remarkable mosques, built in the 15th century! All still in use today. Two of these mosques were a
80 dome mosque
remarkable architecture design of domes rather than minarets. The first was a nine dome and the second was an 80 dome mosque. Truly fascinating for the time period and in wonderful condition considering the climate and the years.
We continued by car to Mongla, where we boarded
Crossing the river
boat number three: a small wooden pirogue which we stood in to cross the very busy river. On the other side we boarded boat number four, known as a country boat. It was just the two of us with our guide and we sat back and enjoyed cruising the river on this small 20-foot boat. We enjoyed a
The country boat
traditional Bangla lunch onboard, then went ashore at the Sundarban’s breeding sanctuary where we saw deer and crocodiles and walked the mangrove forest.
Back on the boat and back to Mongla where we
On the river
met the car, returned to Barisal (including car ferry-boat number five) and to our hotel in Barisal. It had been a very amazing day.
Day three we were up early, and instead of car we were in a Tuk Tuk before the sun had risen, driving an hour from Barisal to the banks of the Shondha River. Here we would board boat number six, a long deep river dwelling vessel, for what would turn out to be my favorite part of our
Floating vegetable market
tour. Cruising through the backwater region of the Shondha we enjoyed the floating vegetable market as well as seeing the river people going about their daily life – scratching out an existence on and in
Meeting the friendly locals
the river. The river is both highway and washing machine, bathtub and food source. We got off the boat several times, including a visit to an ancient and scrabbled together Hindu village where the people were so kind and generous and interested in us. When we tell them we are from
Meeting the locals
the United States they say it is their honor to have us in their country. This is the Bangladeshi way – welcoming, kind and generous; even if they have nothing to give, they will offer you a cup of tea.
It was particularly interesting to me how astonished everyone – men, women and children – were with my white hair. They found it fascinating and we felt like celebrities. Very
Laundry
humbling experience.
We learned a lot about river life, about the kindness of strangers, about how important community is to this ancient way of life. We learned about religion (Islam is the largest religion of Bangladesh; Muslims constitute over 90% of the population, while Hindus constitute 8.5% and Buddhists 0.6% are the most significant minorities of the country. Christians, Sikhs, animists and atheists form 1%), we learned about food, we learned about education.
River life
But mostly we learned about how much we take for granted.
Saying farewell to our boat driver we were back in the Tuk Tuk for the hour ride back to Barisal where
Iron workers at the market. They asked us to stay for tea.
we had time to tour the market before our departure. The market was remarkable to me mostly because not a single tourist item was there. This was perhaps the most authentic market I have been to (except for Ethiopia and Burkina Faso). In fact I have not even been able to find a postcard in this country – a sign of how small the tourism
Beautiful Bangladesh
industry is here.
We said goodbye to our wonderful guide and boarded a river ferry, faster and more modern than the Rocket, for the overnight return to Dhaka. Boat number seven.
Seven boats, three days, one rare Bangladesh. I’ll not forget my time here. Unique, remarkable, rewarding and above all, humbling.
This is part two of our BC Canada Road Trip. I recently shared Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia. Boy did we enjoy seeing some of beautiful Vancouver Island. After our five days on the island we headed across on the ferry from Comox to continue our trip along the beautiful Sunshine Coast. Here is my story Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia Canada.
On board the ferry to Powell River from Comox
Part Two
Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia
The ferry from Comox requires a reservation, which we made well in advance at a cost of $73 CAD / $53 USD. It was a gorgeous day and the ferry ride was very scenic (we saw whales breaching in the distance). On arrival in Powell River we made a brief stop to pick up groceries before heading north on Hwy 101 about 30 minutes to the tiny town of Lund.
Welcome to Lund
Lund British Columbia
In case you haven’t made the connection, my last name is Lund. My husband’s family is Scandinavian and there is town in Sweden called Lund. The tiny village of Lund British Columbia is named after the city in Sweden. Lund, by the way, means grove.
Where is Lund?
For the past forty years Arne and I have talked about visiting Lund British Columbia. Yes I said forty. Good grief…once again why don’t we visit beautiful British Columbia more often? So when we were planning our summer 2025 I insisted we finally visit Lund.
History of Lund BC
Lund, British Columbia, is a historic village with a rich past, initially established by Swedish immigrants, the Thulin brothers, in 1889. Before European settlement, the area served as a winter campground for the Coast Salish people. The Thulins developed Lund into a thriving port, building a store, post office, hotel, and wharf.
Small harbor at Lund
Hike the Lund Loop
Today, Lund is a picturesque seaside village known for its harbor and access to Desolation Sound. It’s often referred to as the “End of the Road” as it’s the northern terminus of Highway 101. This highway is part of one of the longest highway networks in the world, running along the coast from Canada to Chile.
Desolation Sound
In the summer of 1792, two expeditions led by Captains George Vancouver, and Dionisio Alcalá Galiano and Cayetano Valdés y Flores arrived and cooperated in mapping the sound. Vancouver named it Desolation Sound, cryptically claiming that “there was not a single prospect that was pleasing to the eye” (credit Desolation Sound Resort).
Many watercraft at Lund
Today Lund is the hop off point for wonderful water adventures in Desolation Sound. People come from all over the world to kayak, fish, sail, and hike the region. Lund has a population of 1250, and sits on the traditional and unceded territory of the Tla’amin, Klahoose, and Homalco First Nations. The native name of Lund is Klah ah men. This name, given by the Coast Salish people thousands of years ago, reflects the historical significance of the Lund Harbor as a safe and sheltered place where people could interact, hunt, gather food, and launch canoes along the Salish Sea. It was a vibrant cultural hub important for practical everyday life as well as for storytelling and sharing traditions.
Two Short Days in Lund
We did not have much time in Lund, but we did do a self guided tour of the beautiful harbor and had a late lunch of poutine and beer at the waterfront restaurant The Boardwalk, before checking in to our Airbnb.
The Boardwalk is a popular restaurant on the water in Lund. Definitely visit.
When in Canada – Poutine
We loved our cute and comfortable and sparkling clean Airbnb and decided it was a good evening to relax and have dinner at home.
Great little Airbnb with kitchen just outside of the town of Lund
Next morning we were up early for a full day of hiking on the Sunshine Coast Trial.
We met a lot of through hikers enjoying a multi-day trek. But for us our seven mile round trip (we headed north from Malaspina Road) gave us some beautiful views of the sound as well as forests and birds. I highly recommend finding some time to hike a portion of the Sunshine Coast Trail.
View of Okeover Inlet
The Laughing Oyster
After a shower and relax back at our cute little Airbnb we headed out to Lund’s highest rated restaurant The Laughing Oyster. Located outside of the tiny Lund marina area, and technically in Powell River, The Laughing Oyster not only has great food but it has a spectacular view of Desolation Sound. I’m glad we were able to get a reservation, because the food plus the view were a perfect ending to our brief, beautiful and long awaited visit to Lund British Columbia.
Cheers to Lund
Delicious Sablefish
Don’t miss The Laughing Oyster when in Lund
Southbound
For the first time in more than a week we turned our trusty Subaru towards the south for the drive to Halfmoon Bay. Another ferry ride was included from Saltery Bay (about an hours drive) to Earls Bay. There are no reservations on this run. After we disembarked and at the recommendation of my blogger friend from Retired and Traveling we made a stop to hike to Skookumchuck (skuh·kuhm·chuhk) Narrows.
Another ferry ride
Skookumchuck Narrows
Wow. Don’t miss this place. We would have if our friend Linda hadn’t suggested it. It’s an easy 2 mile hike from the parking area down to the narrows. At the parking you will also find restrooms, food and other services. Here is what the BC Parks Webpage has to say about this fabulous natural phenomenon;
Skookumchuck Narrows
” Skookumchuck Narrows Park provides trails and viewing areas for visitors who wish to experience the awesome power of incredibly turbulent tidal rapids. On a three metre tide, 200 billion gallons of water flow through the narrows connecting Sechelt and Jervis Inlet.
So glad we came here
The rushing water was astonishing
The difference in water levels between one side of the rapids and the other sometimes exceeds two metres in height. Current speeds can exceed 30 km per hour. The rapids are famous for their spectacular whirlpools and whitewater.” Learn more here.
Enjoy a cinnamon roll at the Skookumchuck Bakery after your hike.
A little midday treat
Halfmoon Bay
We arrived at our cute accommodations, the Loghouse at Halfmoon Bay, in the afternoon. This is a wonderful spot in a quiet little cove. Comfortable ground floor room with a small outdoor space, the hosts provide you make-your-own breakfast goodies including eggs, cereal, yogurt, coffee and more. I would definitely stay here again.
Loghouse at Halfmoon Bay
By this time on our road trip we were feeling a bit tired, but we took a walk to see the small beach, ogle at the beautiful homes and enjoy the pier, before jumping in the shower and getting ready for dinner.
The small beach near our lodge
Gorgeous pier and homes
The travel blogger friend I mentioned above lives in the town of Sechelt, about 15 minutes drive south on the Sunshine Coast. We enjoyed a glass of wine at their beautiful condo, before heading into Sechelt for dinner at a waterside restaurant.
Sechelt
Sechelt (see·shelt) is known for its relaxed seaside vibe, beautiful natural scenery, and outdoor recreation opportunities. It has a quiet downtown area, beautiful views of the passage and Desolation Sound. Sechelt is a great jumping off point for all the recreation on the Sunshine Coast.
Next time we will stay longer in this cute little town.
Final Days
After being on the move for nine days, we decided to enjoy a quiet final day in Halfmoon Bay. We loved our little outdoor space and made use of it through the day while reading and doing some work on the laptop.
Halfmoon Bay
We had a casual early dinner at the historic Halfmoon Bay General Store . Operating since 1937, they recently reopened after a complete rebuild. It will continue to be a gathering place for the community of Halfmoon Bay with its indoor and outdoor seating area. We enjoyed a fresh-made sandwich and some beer sitting in the sun on the deck. The store also has a small selection of groceries and gifts. After our dinner we headed down to the pier to watch the sun set into the Pacific Ocean.
Refreshing local cider
Dinner at Halfmoon General
Sunset on our final night
Heading Home
Day ten and we woke up really early to drive the 45 minutes to the Langdale ferry terminal. The ferry crosses Howe Sound to take us to Horseshoe Bay, about a half hour’s drive on into Vancouver. The ferry is free in this direction (surprisingly) but still requires a reservation in the summer. We had a reservation for the 7am boat but actually got on the 6:30am. It was a stunning boat ride as the sun was coming up with the route weaving in and out of the islands.
Gorgeous morning
Originally we had planned to finish this trip with a couple of days in Vancouver, but due to commitments back home we had to cancel that part of our trip. Vancouver is a favorite destination though, and I hope to get back to that beautiful city again soon.
Sunrise from the ferry
Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia
Our ten day British Columbia road trip with part one on Vancouver Island and part two on the Sunshine Coast was better than we could have hoped. We loved all of our accommodations, the food, the sites, the history, the hiking, the sea…everything. The people are kind, the exchange rate is incredible, the ferry system is fairly priced and reliable. Wow. What more could you want?
Thank you Canada!
Thank you for reading Part Two of our BC Road Trip; Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia. See last week’s post Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia here. Stay tuned for more fun travel posts coming to you soon!
We are always grateful when you help our blog posts find other readers by sharing, commenting and pinning this post. Thank you.
Canada. It’s my next door neighbor. All my life I have taken British Columbia for granted. It’s funny how close and yet so far it seems, having only visited Victoria and Whistler. I have spent the last decade traveling ALL OVER the world, but not really considering my closest neighbor and friend, beautiful British Columbia, Canada. So summer 2025 I committed to visiting and enjoying this remarkable place. Here is my story Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia.
Mackenzie Beach Tofino BC
Oh Canada
My last visit to Canada was when we traveled across Canada pulling our pink trailer “Betty” in 2016. That was the very start of the Grand Adventure…seems like a lifetime ago. A lot has happened since then, but I have great memories of that trip and the kind people, amazing nature and interesting history along the way. That trip gave us the opportunity to visit six provinces bringing our total to eight of the thirteen. It’s a huge country, and I doubt we will ever see it’s most remote regions. But we have no excuse not to have seen more of British Columbia, less than two hours from our home in Washington State. Thus our Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia.
Ontario Canada in our ’63 Aloha trailer named Betty
Middle Beach Tofino Vancouver Island
Part One
We broke our ten day trip into two parts; part one Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia and part two the Sunshine Coast on the mainland. So I have broken my blog posts also into two parts as well. Today I present part one Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia. We spent five days, and easily could have spent two weeks on Vancouver Island alone. We will be back. Here is what we saw.
Port Angeles Washington
We took our time driving from our home in Port Orchard Washington to Port Angeles Washington, about a two hour drive. It’s one of my favorite drives close to our home, traversing over the Hood Canal Bridge and stopping on Marrowstone Island, Chimacum (CHEM-ə-kəm) and Sequim (skwim). Because our reservation on the Black Ball Ferry was very early in the morning, we spent the night in the simple but comfortable Olympic View Inn.
Marrowstone Island
Finn River Cidery
Finn River Cidery
Sequim is famous for lavender
Black Ball Ferry
Sunrise at the Ferry terminal Port Angeles
Day Two we were up very early and in line for the ferry by 6:15am. This ferry requires an advance reservation which can be made at the Black Ball Ferry line website. Cost for car, driver and passenger was $101 plus a $12 reservation fee. It is a 90 min crossing, calm on this day but it can get rough. We some how lucked out and were the very first car off the boat, breezed through passport control and were on our way within minutes. No time in Victoria this trip, but if you haven’t visited Victoria it is a must on a first-timers Vancouver Island itinerary. At least one night and two is better.
On the ferry to Canada
Duncan
Instead of time in Victoria we headed directly to the small historic town of Duncan. It’s an easy drive, less than hour from the ferry terminal in Victoria.
Today, Duncan is the commercial center of the Cowichan (kow·wee·chn) Region and attracts visitors to its trendy boutiques, art and antique galleries. It is also known as the “City of Totems” and that is what attracted us to the beautiful small town. Some 80 carved totem poles depicting the historic legends of the First Nations are easy to see with a self-guided walking tour through the historic core.
Historic and beautiful little town
Chemainus
Less than half an hour drive north from Duncan, we found ourselves in another small historic British Columbia town known as Chemainus (She-MAY-nus). I met a woman several decades ago who was from Chemainus and she told me about the Chemainus Murals. I’ve been wanting to see them ever since.
Chemainus Murals
It’s a treasure hunt to find each one
Chemainus History
Chemainus, BC, began as an unincorporated logging and seaport town in 1858, with its name derived from the Stz’uminus First Nation.
This one is my fav
Chemainus Murals
The town transformed in the 1980s when it embraced a unique mural project to revitalize its economy after the closure of its main industry. Today, Chemainus is known as “The Little Town That Did” and “The Mural Town,” featuring over 50 outdoor murals and sculptures that depict the town’s history and culture.
Lunchtime
We really enjoyed our self-guided mural walk, as well as a lovely lunch on a beautiful sunny BC day. After lunch we walked down to the lower town, home to the mill and shops. Chemainus is definitely worth a couple hours on your road trip.
Some beautiful parks in Chemainus
Lots of views
Ladysmith
Just another 15 minutes drive north of Chemainus, we took a moment to visit the historic town of Ladysmith.
Welcome to Ladysmith
Historic First Avenue
Ladysmith History
Ladysmith, British Columbia, began as Oyster Harbour, a settlement established by James Dunsmuir in 1898 to support his coal mining operations. The town was renamed Ladysmith in 1900 to commemorate the British lifting the siege of Ladysmith, South Africa, during the Second Boer War. The town was officially incorporated in 1904.
A brief stop in Ladysmith is worth it
Ladysmith First Ave
The heart of this tiny town is Historic First Avenue. Worth a stroll to shop, dine and admire the historic buildings, some under renovation. We also took time to visit and stroll along the beautiful Transfer Beach park and beach.
Nanaimo
The day was growing short but we wanted to make a brief stop in Nanaimo (nuh·nai·mow), although frankly we should have stayed longer and will next time.
Nanaimo History
Nanaimo’s history is deeply rooted in its Indigenous peoples, the Snuneymuxw (snoo-NAY-muxw), and the arrival of European settlers. Initially, it was known as Colvilletown, established by the Hudson’s Bay Company around a trading post. The name Nanaimo, derived from the Snuneymuxw word “Sne-ny-mo,” meaning “a big, strong tribe,” was adopted in 1860. The city’s development was significantly influenced by the discovery of coal in the area, leading to a boom in mining and industry.
Red’s Bakery Nanaimo
Nanaimo Bars
We came for the Nanaimo Bars. Nanaimo bars, a no-bake dessert, are named after the city of Nanaimo. The bars are believed to have originated in the 1950s, with the earliest known recipe appearing in a 1952 cookbook. While the exact origin story is debated, the bars gained significant popularity in the 1980s, particularly after a contest to find the “ultimate” Nanaimo bar recipe. After a Google search we ended up enjoying a very rich and delicious Nanaimo Bar at Red’s Bakery. Definitely worth a visit.
Rich and chocolaty
Delicious
Qualicum Beach
After a long day with an early wake up we were happy to arrive at our spot for the night in Qualicum (kwaa·luh·km) Beach. We were pretty tired, and did not have a lot of time to see any sites in Qualicum Beach. But we got settled into a little Bed and Breakfast Oceanside Manor and then headed out for a walk along the ocean promenade. The weather was excellent and the views as well and we stopped to enjoy delicious fish and chips in the sun. On our next visit to BC I would plan a full day here as well as considering continuing north to Campbell River. We will save that for next time.
Oceanside Manor
Qualicum Beach promenade
Perfect weather for outdoor dining
Westward Ho
Our hosts at Oceanside Manor made sure we had a delicious and hearty breakfast before saying our farewells and heading West across the island. I enjoyed this drive immensely as we took our time to enjoy the spectacular scenery of the interior of Vancouver Island on our way to Tofino..
Salmon Infused Eggs on Avocado Toast. Wow.
Cathedral Grove
One of my favorite things we did on this entire trip was this hike in Cathedral Grove, also known as MacMillan Park. Less than 30 minutes from Qualicum Beach. Beware! Parking is limited. We got lucky and found a spot that allowed us to enjoy the trails that are located on both sides of the road. Technically you are not supposed to cross the road, there are no crosswalks or safe crossings. We did manage it however, and found the nature on both sides astonishing. You might consider doing the trails on the north side one day, and on your return east you could hike the south side trails.
Big Douglas Fir Trees
Lots of Big Trees
The Cathedral Grove trails are home to some of the oldest, largest and most beautiful Douglas Firs in the world. Certainly worth a visit. The trails are flat, easy and should be manageable for most abilities. Some of the walking is done on raised boardwalks, protecting the fragile ecosystem. Does this place look familiar to you? Famed director George Lucas shot scenes for Star Wars VI: Return of the Jedi here, using the larger-than-life trees as the backdrop for the Ewoks home planet of Endor. Don’t miss this stunning forest.
Majestic
Hole in the Wall
Not easy to find, or to park. About 20 minutes west of Cathedral Grove you will come to Port Alberni, home of Hole in the Wall. We turned around at the Coombs Candy Store and parked back up Highway 4 about 100 yards, just along the busy highway. Didn’t feel very safe, but there were other cars parked there too. The hike is short and pretty easy along logging roads. I hear it can be mucky in the winter but in the summer dry and nice. If you are inclined, swimming at Hole in the Wall is popular, but we did not. The hole was once a shortcut for the city’s waterline and today is a picturesque waterfall on Vancouver Island.
Lake Kennedy
Continuing on Hwy 4 west we found ourselves hugging the shores of beautiful Kennedy lake, which is the largest lake on the island with a surface area of 6,475 hectares (16,000 acres), according to Wikipedia. It has an irregular shape with two distinct basins, the Main Arm and the Clayoquot (klah-WOK-wət) Arm, connected by a narrow channel. There are several spots to stop and enjoy views of the lake.
Vancouver Island’s largest lake, Lake Kennedy
Ucluelet
Prior to checking into our hotel in Tofino, we made a brief stop in the town of Ucluelet (you-KLEE-let), about 30 minutes south of Tofino. Ucluelet is a popular tourism destination for kayaking, surfing and family fun on the beach. It has a rich history as one of the oldest settlements on Vancouver Island. The name derives from the Nuu-chah-nulth phrase “Yu-clutl-ahts,” meaning “people with a good landing place for canoes”. The Yuułuʔiłʔatḥ First Nation, who have lived in the area for thousands of years, call it “Ucluelet,” which translates to “people of the safe harbour”.
Wild Pacific Trail Hike in Ucluelet
Picturesque Ucluelet
We took some time to walk the very easy and scenic Lighthouse Loop section of the Wild Pacific Trail along a beautiful bluff overlooking the ocean. It was quite busy on a sunny Sunday but easy to see why it was so popular. A great walk with kids and there is also a small museum. Definitely worth a few hours or even an overnight in Ucluelet.
Wild Pacific Trail, Ucluelet
Tofino
It was a long but lovely day in and out of the car and we were happy to arrive at our destination in Tofino (tuh·fee·now). We had booked a room at the stunning Middle Beach Lodge and were excited to find our room had a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean, with a small deck to sit and enjoy it. Middle Beach Lodge has a large variety of room choices, from small two person rooms like ours to large cabins and their new “tree house” rooms both which accommodate more people. I really loved this place and would like to come back with my adult children for a longer stay. Our room with view was only $190 Canadian per night ($140 USD) with breakfast included.
Middle Beach Lodge
Room with a View
MacKenzie Beach
On arrival we just relaxed, walked the property and went on a short hike to the long and beautiful Mackenzie Beach, before dinner. Middle Beach Lodge offers a nightly prix fixe dinner for guests. We had pre-booked it for our first night. It was outstanding, included a welcome glass of wine, crab cake appetizers, serve yourself salad and bread, followed by the main course of locally caught ling cod. Dessert too. Price was $60 Canadian (44 USD), and totally worth the price.
Dinner with a view
Crabcakes my favorite
Tofino Day Two
After an incredible breakfast included with our room at the Middle Beach Lodge we headed out to hike the forested bluff Tonquin trail into the town of Tofino. It’s an easy 2 mile trail with gorgeous views. Definitely worth it instead of driving. We spent several hours exploring the small town, visiting shops and historic sites and reveling in the gorgeous weather before retracing our steps on the bluff trail back to the lodge.
After a shower we drove back into town. Our first stop was Tofino Brewing Company, a popular spot for locals and visitors. We really enjoyed a cold brew and the vibe of the industrial taproom.
A must visit when in Tofino
Tofino Brewing Company
We had pre-booked dinner at one of Tofino’s highest rated restaurants, The Wolf in the Fog. We booked an early spot at 5:15, and were amazed how fast it filled by 5:30. I highly recommend you get a reservation. An inventive and local menu was delicious and the prices were surprisingly good for a semi-fine dining experience.
Wolf in the Fog
Inventive Pirogi
Ribs!
Final Tofino Day
It’s our last day in Tofino and the weather has taken a turn to gray. No worries, we are PNW people! Today we had pre-booked a water taxi (open air) out to Meares Island to do a rugged hike.
Tofino Water Taxi (round trip $40 CAD / $29 USD) met us and a handful of other people on the First Street Dock for the ten minute ride across the bay to Meares. Here we found the Big Tree Trail….a popular but difficult walk through the woods.
That’s our water taxi coming in
Onboard the Tofino Water Taxi
The BigTree Trail is not long, but it is very rough with roots and rocks, mud and includes rough hewn cedar plank raised boardwalk through much of the trail. It took us two hours to go three miles. BUT, if you are up to this hike, you will enjoy some of the most incredible old growth cedar trees I have seen anywhere in my life. Other plant life, birds too. And the boat ride both directions gives you a wonderful view back to Tofino and of the surrounding islands.
Gotta watch your every step
Gigantic Cedar Trees on the Big Trees Trail
Headed back after an adventurous day
Final Evening
Back to our lodge via the Tonquin trail, where we showered and got ready for our final evening in Tofino. First stop happy hour at Middle Beach Lodge, enjoying a gin and tonic and the gorgeous views. Happy Hour is every evening at Middle Beach Lodge from 4-7. Next we headed back into town in the car to dinner at Shelter Restaurant. This restaurant is very popular with visitors and locals for its delicious local menu as well as water view. I really enjoyed the fresh mussels. Highly recommend.
Dinner with a view at Shelter Restaurant
Lots of boaters at Shelter Restaurant
Delicious Muscles and Frites at Shelter
Reverse Gears to Comox
I could easily have spent a few more days in Tofino, and at the wonderful Middle Beach Lodge. But alas our time was over. We began the trek back east across the island where we would catch the ferry to the mainland at Comox. Our ferry reservation was at 3:00pm, so we enjoyed the drive, which took about 3.5 hours.
Heading to mainland BC
More to See
There is much more on the upper island to see, but it was time to move on to our second part of our trip, the Sunshine Coast. I guess we will need another Vancouver road trip soon. Meanwhile, come back next week for more about our time on British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast.
Beautiful Vancouver Island
Thanks for reading my post Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia. I hope you can use this post as a tool for your own Vancouver Island road trip. Watch for Part Two of our British Columbia Road Trip on the Sunshine Coast. Be sure and see last week’s post Tracking Trolls in the Pacific Northwest. We love it when you share, pin, comment and engage with our blog posts. Thank you.
This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish.AcceptRejectRead More
Privacy & Cookies Policy
Privacy Overview
This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.
Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.
down.
plummeted and we put all our clothes on including wool socks and hats and snuggled under the covers for the night.
Kasbahs in Morocco, the Amerhidil – built-in the 17th century and in remarkable condition. Given that most of this construction is made from mud and straw bricks, finding well-preserved ones of this age is unusual. We toured the building, ate a delicious lunch of grilled turkey kebab and then headed on our way to our hotel.
Kasbahs of old are like something out of a movie set (and some are) but they are real. And beautiful. And cherished by the wonderful Moroccan people.
