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Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Grayland

May 29, 2026

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Location: Grayland Washington USA

A couple of weeks ago we spent a wonderful few days on the Pacific Ocean at Grayland State Park. It had been many years since I had been in this area and I am so glad we took the time to explore this hidden gem. We ventured around the region and had a great time. Here is my post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Grayland Washington.

Where is Grayland Washington USA

Nestled on the remote Pacific Coast of Washington, Grayland is tiny town that is home to about 700 residents. Located in Grays Harbor County on the border with Pacific County, Grayland is south of Ocean Shores and Westport, southwest of Aberdeen and north of Tokeland.

Camping in Washington State

When I was a child we spent a lot of time camping, often on the Pacific beaches near to our home. I remember miserable gray, rainy days…but also fun barefoot beach experiences too. In Washington State you never know what the weather will bring…and so you come prepared. Camping as a child we were surrounded by aunts, uncles, cousins…it’s one of the best memories I have and I feel lucky to have grown up in this way.

My family about 1967. I’m in the middle looking very much like a boy.

Driving to Grayland

We drove from our home in Port Orchard and it took about two hours and fifteen minutes. Shelton was our first stop for a coffee at the amazing Marmo Gallery Cafe and I highly recommend it. We also stopped in Elma for lunch at the iconic Rusty Tractor Family Restaurant.

Counter at Rusty Tractor is very old school

Grayland State Park & Surrounding Area

Our friends invited us to spend three days with them at Grayland State Park. This beautiful Washington State Park has yurts to rent. Our friends brought their travel trailer and we stayed in a comfortable yurt in the same camping spot. The yurt can sleep four, but for just Arne and I it was very comfortable. Electricity and heat but no running water. Restrooms nearby. It was camping but with a little extra comfort for this ole gal.

The sites are large and have firepits which we enjoyed as well as a picnic table where we ate most of our meals. Like any good camping trip there was plenty of good food, lots of beer, a couple margaritas and card games.

We had both a wood burning fire pit and a propane generated one

Close to the campground we enjoyed the following activities;

Grayland Beach

This gorgeous, long sandy beach is pure Washington coast. The kind of beach Washington State is known for. You are allowed to drive on the beach, and we parked on the hard sand and walked and walked on a sunny day. The season for razor clamming had just ended when we were visiting, and the beach was quiet and peaceful. We saw bald eagles, sandpipers and pelicans.

Cranberry Farms

There is a Cranberry Museum in Grayland, but unfortunately we missed it. But we really enjoyed driving around and looking at the acres and acres of cranberry bogs. Cranberry farms are abundant in this damp climate, many family-owned. Harvest traditionally runs from late September through early December. On the way into Grayland you can’t miss the Ocean Spray cranberry processing plant.

I realized how little I know about cultivation of cranberries!

Bottle Beach State Park & Ocosta by the Sea Ghost Town

We loved the walk through this wildlife reserve at Bottle Beach State Park where we spotted two new-to-us birds. This region was once a boom town known as Ocosta by the Sea and was proposed to be the Pacific terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad. Real estate was hot after that announcement and the town blossomed. But that all changed when the railroad terminus was changed to Tacoma.

Today, all that remains of the original boom town includes:

Historical Home: A majestic Queen Anne-style farmhouse sits atop a bluff on State Route 105 just before entering Ocosta.
Ocosta Grange Hall: This building, which served as a community dance hall in the 1960s, still stands today.
Bottle Beach State Park: The original townsite and its collapsed 2,900-foot wharf are now part of Bottle Beach State Park. Instead of buildings, beachcombers occasionally find historic glass bottles and railroad debris from the vanished development

In this marsh we spotted a Marsh Wren – an addition to our growing bird list

International Mermaid Museum and Westport Winery

We had to make a stop at the International Mermaid Museum, easily accessible right off the highway. Conveniently the Westport Winery is located right next door. This museum is dedicated to “teaching ocean ecology from seashore to sea floor immersed in mermaid mythology unifying oceanic cultures.”

The museum has an extensive collection of mermaid memorabilia; the well-done signage explains in detail the myth and lore of mermaids with a healthy dose of ocean ecology. Only $3 to enter, how can you not spend some time at the International Mermaid Museum? Check out the website for special events and activities throughout the year.

Right next door is the Westport Winery and Ocean’s Daughter Distillery, with a restaurant and nice gift shop. Tastings are $15 per person which you can put towards a purchase if you decide to bring some tasty local wine home.

Tokeland

The tiny town of Tokeland has a population of only about 120. It is home to commercial oyster and razor clam operations. It is also home to the historic Tokeland Hotel, Washington’s oldest. Built in 1885 it was originally a private home, and later served a population of wealthy travelers who arrived by boat. Today the hotel is fully restored and is listed on the National Register. It is known for its farm-to-table restaurant. While visiting the hotel we toured the tiny and beautiful garden and met the local pigs and chickens. I’d love to come back and stay a couple of nights.

Westport

Westport is the largest town in the area between the Pacific and inland Aberdeen. We headed out to Westport on our final evening. Home to the largest commercial and charter fishing fleet in Washington, a walk along the harbor to view some of the 180 boats is a must. It was cooler in Westport due to the wide open Pacific Ocean wind, so we bundled up. Our visit on a Tuesday in May found all the shops and most the restaurants closed.

Summer months in Westport you will find surfers in the ocean and families on the beach. A visit to the Westport Maritime Museum is a must any time of year.

We did find a wonderful restaurant called Bennett’s. It was really busy since most other places were closed, but we enjoyed a wonderful dinner in the cozy space. I loved the crab cakes and everyone else enjoyed cod or halibut and chips and chowder. Great beer selection too.

I would definitely order crab cakes again

Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Grayland

Grayland and surrounding area is often “gray” but we saw both blue and gray skies on our visit and only one rainy morning. Summer months are busier but also warmer. Fall is a great time to visit this coastal region. If you are interested in digging razor clams, you can find more information at the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife.

To enter the state parks mentioned here, and any state park in Washington, you must have a Washington Discover Pass. Find more info at the Washington State Parks website.

I am so glad we had three full days to enjoy the entire peninsula from Westport to Tokeland. If you are coming from the Kitsap Peninsula, stops in Shelton and Elma are nice. Alternatively if you are coming from Tacoma, Seattle or Olympia you will bypass Shelton but you might consider stops in Montesano or McCleary.

If you are making the Olympic National Park/Olympic Peninsula loop trip, venturing a bit south to see these beautiful beaches is a great add-on. See my post about the Olympic National Park here.

This part of the state is rural, beautiful, and home to hard-working people who bring farm and sea to your table. We are grateful for their work.

Always something interesting at the ocean beach

Thank you for reading my post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Grayland Washington. See last week’s post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Vashon Island.

More hidden gems next week. We are grateful for your comments, shares and pins. Thank you.

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Hidden Gems of the PNW – Vashon Island

May 22, 2026

Laureen

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Close to Seattle, Tacoma and the Kitsap Peninsula, it’s surprising how many locals never make the trek out to beautiful Vashon Island, a little hidden gem in the South Puget Sound accessible only by ferry. It’s a perfect day trip when visiting the Pacific Northwest. Let’s talk about it! Hidden Gems of the PNW – Vashon Island.

Mount Rainier in the distance from Point Robinson

Is Vashon Hidden?

Technically Vashon is hiding in plain sight. Suspiciously un-hidden, but a bit hard to access, making it a very special gem of a get-away. Three separate Washington State Ferry routes take residents and visitors to the island, which is nestled rather conspicuously in South Puget Sound. You can hop a ferry from Fauntleroy in Seattle, Point Defiance in Tacoma, or Southworth on the Kitsap Peninsula. But once on the island, public transportation is limited, so you really should bring your car. Having a car is going to give you access to a variety of fun little gems through out the 13 mile long island. If you are a cyclist, I highly recommend cycling the island. I’ve done it end to end several times and it makes a fabulous day.

Riding the ferry from Southworth to Vashon Island

A Little History

Vashon Island has a rich Puget Sound history originating with the S’Homamish people, a Coast Salish Native American people indigenous to the Pacific Northwest. The S’Homamish people historically inhabited the area around southern Vashon Island, Maury Island, the Tacoma Narrows, and what is now known as Gig Harbor.

Later the island became a renowned agricultural hub known for strawberries and a thriving Japanese-American farming community before WWII. Named by Captain George Vancouver in 1792, the island developed through logging, shipbuilding in Dockton, and eventually became a “charming, arts-focused” retreat accessible only by ferry.

Vashon was known for Strawberries for decades (Canva)

Key Historical Eras

Indigenous History: For centuries, the S’Homamish lived on the island, using its rich marine resources and hunting at the portage between Vashon and Maury Island.
European Exploration (1792): Captain George Vancouver explored the area and named the island after his friend, Captain James Vashon.
Settlement & Industry (Late 19th Century): Settlers arrived in the 1860s-1880s, establishing logging and fishing as primary industries.
The Strawberry Boom (1890-1940s): Vashon became famous for its strawberries, led by a large Japanese-American farming community that developed innovative, long-distance shipping methods.
WWII and Displacement (1942): Japanese-American families, who were integral to the island’s economy, were forced into internment camps, leaving a major mark on local history.
Modern Era: Post-war, the island transitioned from an agricultural center to a residential and artistic community, connected to the mainland via the Washington State Ferry system.

Day Trip Highlights

Today’s Vashon Island is home to about 11,000 full time residents. The population has remained steady over the past few decades due to access and land use restrictions. There are three “towns” on the island, the smaller historic town of Dockton, the very small and the larger current business center of Vashon Island (also called Uptown). We explored the following;

Point Robinson Light

The Point Robinson Light is an operational aid to navigation and historic lighthouse on Puget Sound. Located on the eastern shores of Maury Island, an easy drive from Vashon. The site was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2004 and offers great views of Mount Rainier.

Way of The Bird King

Way of the Bird King is a public art project featuring sculptures of Nordic trolls made from recycled materials by Danish artist Thomas Dambo. This one (my favorite) on Vashon Island is adjacent to the Point Robinson Light and a do-not-miss on your visit. Learn more about all the Thomas Dambo Trolls in the PNW here.

Dockton & Burton

Dockton, located on Maury Island, was a major late-19th-century shipbuilding hub, home to the largest dry dock on the West Coast from 1892 to 1909. Founded due to the Puget Sound Dry Dock Company, it served the Mosquito Fleet and Pacific ships.

Burton, founded in 1910 was the home of Vashon College. Today it is primarily a residential area near beautiful Quartermaster Harbor with lovely restored homes and the historic Harbor Mercantile.

1910 Postcard of Burton shows the Vashon College in the upper right hand corner (Wikipedia)

The Country Store & Farm

Everything you might expect from a country store. You can find a gift or souvenir, buy a sun hat or a shovel. Perfectly curated The Country Store and Farm is worth a stop on your tour of Vashon Island.

Historic Mukai Farm

On my previous visits to Vashon I had not stopped at Mukai Farms. I was so glad we did this time. B.D. Denichiro Mukai arrived on Vashon in 1910 and became a successful berry grower and business man. Mukai purchased 60 acres of land in the center of Vashon in 1926, today the historic Mukai Farm. The farm is free for visitors to wander the gardens. This property has seen so much history and marks both an interesting and shameful past of anti-Japanese oppression, WWII exile, and the positive contribution of the innovative and hard working Japanese people of the island and the region.

Today the home is on the National Register of Historic Places and efforts are being made to restore the Cold Process Fruit Barrel Plant where the Mukai family created an innovative way of preserving and shipping fresh strawberries.

Mukai Farms Cold Press Barreling Facility

Uptown

“Uptown” is the local name for the charming, compact downtown district on Vashon Island, situated along Vashon Highway SW. It serves as the island’s bustling hub, featuring locally-owned shops, restaurants, art galleries, and a key four-way stop.

Many shops and restaurants and plenty of parking

Where to Eat

In past visits we have enjoyed delicious meals at The Hardware Store, but on this visit we decided to try something new. The Ruby Brink was amazing. Unpretentious exterior opens into a beautifully designed bar and restaurant that includes a butcher! We loved the country style terrine and I had the most delicious mortadella sandwich.

Great menu and beautiful setting at The Ruby Brink

And just around the corner don’t miss Dragon’s Head Cider Tasting Room. Excellent. They serve food too but we just enjoyed the tasty cider. Fresh and delicious with outdoor seating too.

Hidden Gems of the PNW – Vashon Island

Vashon Island is an easy half day or day trip, but you can also take it real slow and spend the night. It’s fun to arrive by one ferry like Southworth and depart by another like Fauntleroy. This is what we did on a loop from our home in Port Orchard then on to visit our son in Ballard. Plan your Vashon Island trip soon. Spring and Fall are my favorites – summer weekends can be busy so plan ahead for your ferry selection. See the Washington State Ferry schedule here.

Thanks for reading my post Hidden Gems of the PNW – Vashon Island. Whether you are a local or a visitor, you will enjoy the laid back quiet experience that is Vashon Island.

See last week’s post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Heronswood Gardens. We are always grateful for your comments, pin and shares and you will never see advertising on our blog posts. More hidden gems coming…follow us!

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Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Heronswood Gardens

May 15, 2026

Laureen

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Location: Kingston Washington USA

For years I have heard about Heronswood Gardens, less than an hour from my home on the Kitsap Peninsula. It’s one of those places you always are going to get to, but somehow for me it just had never happened. Until this month. I am happy to say I finally visited this unique and beautiful botanical gardens. Let me tell you about Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest Heronswood Gardens.

Enjoying my first visit to Heronswood Gardens, Kingston Washington

History

Established in 1987 by horticulturist Dan Hinkley and architect Robert L. Jones, the world renowned 15-acre Botanical Garden sits hidden just outside of Kingston Washington. Known for rare plants collected from around the world by Hinkley and others, the gardens drew garden and plant lovers from around the globe.

In the year 2000 Heronswood was sold to W. Atlee Burpee Company, but fell into disrepair after the company’s 2006 bankruptcy. Neglected for six years, the Port Gamble S’Klallam Tribe purchased the property in 2012 and has brought it lovingly back to life, expanding it to 15 acres.

I loved the meandering paths of the Renaissance Garden

Heronswood Today

With the distinction of being the only botanic gardens in the U.S. owned and operated by a tribal nation, the Port Gamble S’Kallam Tribe has made it once again a thriving garden and a cherished part of the North Kitsap Community. Heronswood protects a vast array of plants from around the world, with over 8,000 different varieties spread across six distinct yet integrated gardens.

Heronswood is open to visitors from 9am-3pm Wednesday to Sunday (with different hours in the winter). Tickets are $15 for adults and $10 for children. Free for Heronswood Garden Members.

Events

Heronswood offers multiple events throughout the year including classes, kids events, holiday events and even yoga. One of the biggest events of the year is the annual Native Plant Sale. The day we visited Heronswood was to participate in this event. Multiple vendors provide unique and beautiful plants for garden lovers to purchase and take home. On the day of the Native Plant Sale, the gardens are open for free.

Hundreds of people lined up for the annual Native Plant Sale

Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest Heronswood Gardens

Now that I have finally made my way to this hidden gem, I know I will be returning at least annually and maybe more. I am very interested to see how the gardens change throughout the seasons. It’s such a peaceful and beautiful treasure. Make time to see it yourself.

Get directions to Heronswood Gardens here.

Learn more about Heronswood Gardens here.

Thank you for reading my post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest Heronswood Gardens. If you haven’t visited, you really should. I know I’ll be back. See last week’s post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest Stadium District Tacoma.

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Hidden Gems of the PNW – Stadium District Tacoma

May 8, 2026

Laureen

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Location: Tacoma Washington USA

Growing up on the Kitsap Peninsula in the Pacific Northwest, a trip to Tacoma was a special treat. We made the trek to the Tacoma Mall a couple times a year, usually for school shopping and Christmas shopping. But I grew up not knowing anything else about Tacoma. Only years later as an adult have I discovered all of Tacoma’s treasures. Today in this post I want to share a little bit about Hidden Gems of the PNW – Stadium District Tacoma.

View of Commencement Bay beyond the Stadium Bowl

Pretty Gritty Tours

First, a shout out to Pretty Gritty Tours. I have been following Chris from Pretty Gritty Tours for awhile on Instagram, and recently took the Stadium High School tour. Amazing! I learned so much about this beautiful and historic building, it inspired this post about Tacoma’s Stadium District. You need to check out all the tours and activities offered at Pretty Gritty Tours. I hope to do the Brewery Row Tour next. Pretty Gritty Tours is worth a follow not only for Hidden Gems of the PNW – Stadium District Tacoma, but for so much more Tacoma treasures.

With my husband, our first time touring the iconic Stadium High School

A Bit of History

Tacoma’s Stadium District, anchored by the iconic 1906 “Brown Castle” (Stadium High School), evolved from a failed 1890s luxury hotel project into a vibrant historic neighborhood. Named for the 1910 Stadium Bowl—originally built in a ravine known as Old Woman’s Gulch—the district features grand residential architecture from 1888–1930 and classic neighborhood shops.

Well done history signage in the district

Hidden Gems of the PNW – Stadium District

The Hotel that Wasn’t (1891–1893): The Northern Pacific Railroad began building a luxury hotel, but the economic panic of 1893 halted construction, leaving a massive, abandoned brick shell.
A New Purpose (1900s): Following a 1898 fire, the Tacoma School District acquired the building. Architect Frederick Heath redesigned it into Tacoma High School, opening in 1906.
Stadium Bowl (1910): The adjacent “stadium” was constructed in a ravine, originally holding 32,000 spectators for events ranging from presidential speeches to rodeos.
Residential Growth: Developed between 1888 and 1930, the surrounding district features early residential suburban architecture, with many homes overlooking Commencement Bay.

Today’s Charming Stadium District

Walkable, authentic and beautiful, today’s Stadium District is home to many North Tacoma residents, some of the city’s most beautiful historic homes and iconic views. Stadium District is close to Tacoma’s amazing Wright Park and W.W. Seymour Conservatory. Stadium High School, a cultural icon, gained fame as the filming location for the 1999 movie 10 Things I Hate About You with Heath Ledger and Julia Stiles.

So rare to see a locally owned and operated pharmacy anymore. This is Ranko’s Pharmacy at this corner since 1935.

The district remains a blend of history and commerce, home to long-standing spots like Ranko’s Pharmacy (since 1935), Parkway Tavern (since 1935), and Frisko Freeze (since 1950), as well as several other great restaurants.

A true hidden gem and local favorite, The Parkway Tavern since 1935

Stadium Thriftway has been a community staple since the early 1990s, occupying a building with a rich retail history. Originally a Safeway in the 1930s-40s, the site later operated as Arney’s, Big Bear in the 1950s-60s, and Lucky before becoming a Thriftway. Nearly 100 years of serving residents of the neighborhood.

Exceptional quality market Stadium Thriftway.

The “big church” in the Stadium District of Tacoma is the First Presbyterian Church of Tacoma. Completed in 1925, this landmark features a prominent 160-foot tower originally used to guide ships into the port, and is recognized for its Romanesque architecture.

First Presbyterian Church of Tacoma since 1925

Stadium High School

The Grande Dame of the neighborhood and the jewel of The Tacoma School District, Stadium High School underwent a major reconstruction in 2004. It is a registered national landmark and worth a visit with Pretty Gritty Tours. I can’t recommend that enough. Not only will you see every floor of the school you also will visit the attic and the basement. So very cool.

I highly recommend a tour of the beautiful Stadium High Scool

The original theater. A new larger theater was built nearby.

The entrance to the attic in Stadium High School

Hidden Gems of the PNW – Stadium District

Tacoma is a beautiful city often overlooked by it’s larger neighbor Seattle. It’s time for you to discover Tacoma’s Treasures, including the Stadium District. I have written a lot about Tacoma over the years, and there is much more to this manageable city. You can type Tacoma into the search bar and find more suggestions including this one covering much of Tacoma’s Hidden Gems.

Thanks for reading my post Hidden Gems of the PNW – Stadium District. See last week’s post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Emish Market. More hidden gems coming throughout the summer.

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Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Emish Market

May 1, 2026

Laureen

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Location: Fife Washington USA

Hidden in Fife Washington just off the I-5 corridor is a marvelous Ukrainian/European Market waiting to be discovered. What an unexpected treat to find this Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest Emish Market.

Authentic

Opened in 2021, this beautiful market offers a wide range of imported Ukrainian and European foods. In addition, the in-house bakery is pumping out traditional breads and sweets and is a definite hidden gem. But there is more! House made sausage, beautiful flowers and produce, and a popular deli and lunch spot not to be missed.

Wide selection of Ukrainian and European imported foods

What’s for lunch?

We came for lunch and went away full and satisfied. Eastern European specialties like Borscht and Pirogi (two of my favorites) as well as Shawarma, sushi, soups, quiche and much more. Such a surprise and all very reasonably priced. See the cafe menu here. The guests enjoying lunch in the small cafe were conversing in several European languages, so you know it must be authentic if it’s drawing that crowd.

I’m a big fan of Pirogi. It’s hard to make at home and now I know where to get it!

Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Emish Market

I don’t get to Fife often, it’s one of those places you fly by on the freeway. But now I have a new reason to visit Fife and the fun and delicious Emish Market. I hope you will check it out too. Bring your appetite!

Thanks for reading my post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Emish Market. We are happy to be back sharing about the wonderful Pacific Northwest after a few months off. More PNW posts coming soon!

See last week’s post Total Knee Replacement – My Journey here.

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Let’s Talk Tamales

February 27, 2026

Laureen

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This is our final post about our wonderful five weeks in Mexico this winter. I am so intrigued by this country…not the beaches as much as the history, culture and the food. I can’t seem to get enough. On this most recent visit, I took a tamal cooking class in Mazatlan. Not only did I learn a lot about this delicious Mesoamerican treat, I also learned some great history. So today. Let’s Talk Tamales

What are Tamales?

The word tamales is plural for tamal, a dough wrapped in a corn husk, often including meat or vegetables, and steamed to make a solid but soft delicious treat.

Tamales originated in Mesoamerica as early as 8000–5000 BC, making them one of the oldest known corn-based dishes. Developed by early civilizations like the Olmecs and Maya as portable food for warriors and hunters, they were adopted by the Aztecs and spread throughout the Americas.

Before food processors the corn was hand milled on a stone

Candelmas

We coincidentally found ourselves in Mazatlan on February 2nd, a national Mexican holiday associated with the Catholic Church called Candelmas or Candelaria. I was not familiar with this holiday nor of the association it has to tamales. Here is what I learned;

Tamales are associated with Día de la Candelaria because of a rich, blend of indigenous Aztec agricultural traditions and Catholic celebrations brought by the Spanish. February 2nd marks the end of the holiday season, where tamales—representing abundance and community—are served to honor the blessing of corn and the birth of Jesus.

Historical and Cultural Significance

Historically, February 2nd aligned with the Aztec start of the new year and the planting season. Indigenous peoples offered maize-based foods, like tamales, to gods such as Tlaloc (god of rain) to ensure a prosperous harvest. When the Spanish arrived, they blended these rituals with the Catholic feast of Candlemas, which commemorates the presentation of Jesus at the temple and the blessing of candles.

The tradition is also tied to the Three Kings’ Day (Jan 6th). Whoever finds the figurine of baby Jesus in the Rosca de Reyes bread is designated the host for the Candelaria party and is responsible for providing the tamales.

Learning from the Locals

Although I had made tamales at home once before (not too bad for a first effort) I was excited to have a class with Tomatl, a Mazatlan food company offering food tours and cooking classes. This special tamales class is only offered once a year in conjunction with the Candlearia celebration.

We gathered at the home of Paola, the owner of Tomatl. Spending the day with Paola and 6 other cooking class guests we tolied and laughed and created and ate. It was a great day.

Savory Tamales

We made two kinds of tamales. The first using dry corn we rehydrated and mixed with Masa Flour. This dough we spread on dry corn husks that had been soaked in boiling water to make them plyable. We added some vegetables and delicious tender slow roasted pork. Then we learned how to carefully wrap the corn husks and tying them with strips of corn husk. Into the giant steamer they go for an hour and 20 minutes. Here is Paola’s recipe;

Frijoles Puercos (Pork Style Beans)

Ingredients

1 kg (2.2 lb) dried beans (preferably azufrado beans)
¾–1 kg (1.6–2.2 lb) lard
½ kg (1.1 lb) Mexican chorizo
1 can sardines in tomato sauce (remove the backbone inside)
210 gr of tomatoe pure
½ kg (1.1 lb) Cotija cheese (reserve some for garnish)
Salsa Huichol, to taste or any can of chile sauce could be Valentina
Green olives
Fresh jalapeño chile
Dried chile de árbol (to fry before adding the chorizo)

Procedure

Prepare the beans
Clean the beans, cook them until tender, and mash them.
Start with the lard
In a pot, melt the lard over low heat.
Fry the dried chile de árbol briefly — do not let it burn, as it will turn bitter.
Remove and reserve for garnish.
Cook the chorizo
Fry the chorizo in the lard, but do not let it brown too much.
Add the beans
Once the chorizo is cooked, add the mashed beans.
Let them cook for about 5 minutes.
Incorporate remaining ingredients gradually
Add the sardines.
Then add the tomato purée and Salsa Huichol or Valentina
Keep the heat low at all times and stir constantly.
Wait about 5 minutes between adding each ingredient.
Finish the mixture
Add the Cotija cheese, olives, and sliced jalapeño.
Continue cooking over low heat, stirring constantly to prevent sticking.

🔥 Cooking Notes

Total cooking time is approximately 1 hour, always over low heat.
Stir continuously.
The key is that the beans must “render” — meaning you’ll see the fat rise to the top and become visible. That’s how you know they’re ready.

🌶 To Serve

After about an hour, once ready:

Top with diced Cotija cheese
Garnish with the fried chile de árbol

Serve warm with fresh tortillas or as a party dip.

Sweet Tamales

The second tamales we made were made with elote – the name in Spanish for sweet, fresh corn. We removed the corn from the cob, preserving the husks. In a blender the dough was created with the fresh corn, lard, sugar and Masa Harina flour. When the dough was ready, we used the fresh corn husks to wrap the dough, tying once again with strips of fresh corn husk.

Here is Paola’s recipe;

Sweet Corn Tamales (Tamales de Elote)

(12 tamales)

Ingredients

8 tender fresh corn ears, kernels removed
120 g (½ cup) unsalted butter, softened
2 teaspoons melted lard
1 tablespoon baking powder
15 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons powdered milk
Corn husks (from the same ears or dried husks, soaked in warm water until pliable)

Instructions

Prepare the corn

In a food processor, grind the fresh corn kernels until very finely blended, forming a soft paste with only a few small lumps remaining. The texture should be moist and slightly thick.

Preparing Fresh Corn Husks for Tamales

When making tamales de elote, you can use the fresh husks from the same corn instead of dried ones.

Remove and Cut the Husks

Peel Carefully: Gently pull back the husks from each ear of corn without tearing them. Try to keep the largest outer husks intact — these are the best for wrapping.
Separate by Size
Large, wide husks → Use for wrapping the tamales.
Small or torn pieces → Save for lining and covering the steamer.
Trim if Necessary
1. Cut off the thick stem end at the base.
1. If a husk is very long, trim the narrow tip so it’s easier to fold.
1. The ideal size is large enough to hold 2–3 tablespoons of batter comfortably.
Soak the Husks
Rinse them under cool water to remove any silk or debris.
Place them in a large bowl or basin.
Cover with very warm (not boiling) water.
Let them soak for about 20–30 minutes, until flexible and pliable.

The goal is to make them soft enough to fold without cracking.

5. Dry Them Before Using

Remove the husks from the water.
Shake off excess water.
Lay them flat on a clean kitchen towel.
Pat them dry gently — they should be damp and flexible, but not dripping wet.

Tip for Steaming

Use the smaller husks to line the bottom of the steamer.
Place a few extra husks on top of the tamales before covering the pot.
This helps trap steam and prevents water droplets from falling onto the tamales.

Make the batter

Transfer the ground corn to a mixing bowl.
Add the softened butter, melted lard, baking powder, sugar, and powdered milk.

Mix thoroughly until all ingredients are fully incorporated and the batter is smooth.

Wrapping the Tamales

Drain the soaked corn husks and pat them dry.
Place about 2–3 tablespoons of batter in the center of each husk.
Fold the sides inward, then fold up the bottom to enclose the filling.
Arrange the tamales upright in a steamer pot, open side facing up.

Steaming

Add water to the bottom of a steamer pot (make sure the water does not touch the tamales).
Cover with extra husks or a clean kitchen towel.
Steam over medium-low heat for about 60–75 minutes.

Check occasionally to ensure the water does not run out.

The tamales are done when:

The dough feels firm to the touch
The husk easily pulls away from the tamal
They hold their shape when opened

Let them rest for 5–10 minutes before serving.

Fresh corn gets pulverized in the food processor

The cobs are layered in the bottom of the pan before the tamales go in.

Let’s talk Tamales

This is definitely one of my new favorite foods and I will be practicing at home. Though time consuming, it is a labor of love and you really should give it a try. If you don’t want to tackle these more difficult recipes on your first try, you might consider trying a simpler recipe like this one for tamales I found on Pinterest. But I encourage you to try the authentic version… you won’t regret it. Since Tamales are a symbol of unity, because the corn from the harvest is processed and shared with family and friends, I think they would make a great addition to your Easter table. I love the history of indigenous and Catholic traditions and the importance they have to ancestors and honoring the earth.

Thank you for reading my post Let’s Talk Tamales and for following all my posts from our visit to Mexico. Please see last week’s post Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico here.

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Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico

Beaches and So Much More

February 20, 2026

Laureen

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In 1982 we went to Mazatlan on our honeymoon. Yep…43 years ago. I’m not sure why we have never been back, because we had a great honeymoon. But, we hadn’t. Until now. Joining our lifelong friends for a wonderful return to Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico – beaches and so much more!

There we are, dancing the night away on our Mazatlan Honeymoon 1982

Beaches and So Much More

Go for the beaches of course, but there is so much more. We found a place much changed in 43 years… much more developed with large hotels and resorts. But also with a preserved old town, quaint and colorful revitalized historic neighborhoods and an abundance of incredible restaurants. Maybe not as authentic as the Mazatlan of 1982, but full of charm, culture and cuisine. Here is what we enjoyed on our visit to Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico.

Arrival

Mazatlan’s small international airport has direct flights from many domestic airports and a few international airports as well. We arrived from Mexico City. Although the Benito Juarez International Airport in Mexico City is one of my least favorites, arriving in Mazatlan was easy. We quickly had our bags and found the taxi kiosk to get a ride into the city, about 30 minutes away. Taxi to the city is 550 pesos, about $32 USD.

In 2026 there are literally thousands of places to stay in Mazatlan, with extensive construction underway for even more. But on this visit we were lucky to stay with our friends, who have a time share with Vacation International at Torres Mazatlan. We shared a lovely two bedroom unit and enjoyed the beach, pool and all the amenities.

Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico

Enjoying time with our friends, who visit Mazatlan every year, we spent our visit exploring some of the best this city has to offer. Sure we also spent some time enjoying the beach and pool, and additionally found great food, history and cultural activities. Here are some suggestions;

Take a Cooking Class

When in Mazatlan do not miss taking a cooking class with Paola and Tomatl.mx. We took a special once a year tamales class, always held on Candelaria. Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas), celebrated on February 2nd, is a major Mexican holiday marking the end of the Christmas season, blending Catholic traditions with indigenous customs and always celebrated with tamales. Check next week’s blog to learn more about tamales and Dia de la Candelaria. But through out the year Paola offers multiple classes. She is a great teacher and we had so much fun learning from her. Next time I want to try her Taco class.

Don’t Miss a Food and History Tour

We also spent a wonderful day with Paola on a food tour. You know I love a good food tour and our Tomatl.mx food tour was awesome. Mazatlan is a pretty large city, so instead of a walking tour, we used a local transportation option called a ‘spider”. Eight guests plus Paola, we visited at least eight places around the city, including the port and old town. Throughout the tour we learned so much great history and cultural food insights. We also learned that Mazatlan is the second largest shrimp port in Mexico. Shrimp is the star of much of Mazatlan’s cuisine, and it is fresh and delicious right off the boat.

This. OMG. New to me taco called Birria. Like a taco meets a French Dip. So good.

This lovely Abuella has been serving breakfast from this cart for decades

This delicious taco had us pour broth over the top.

Hundreds of shrimp boats call Mazatlan Port home

Walk the Malecon

If you are up to it, you can walk the entire 21km (13miles) of the beautiful Mazatlan Malecon. You can’t get better views and the Malecon is dotted with funky and fun restaurants and shrimp shacks. The oldest section of Mazatlán’s Malecón was constructed in the 1830s, originally built to protect the city from flooding. Today it is the place to see and be seen. Many events and activities, including the annual Mardi Gras parade, takes place on the Malecon.

Climb to the Lighthouse

I wasn’t sure about hiking to the top of Lighthouse Hill since I’m having trouble with my knee, but I did it and it was fine. It is certainly a work out, but I recommend it for the fabulous views. At the top you can enjoy a 360 degree view of Mazatlan and the Pacific Ocean. If you want to pay you can also step out onto the glass deck (we did not). And the top of Lighthouse Hill is also home to the Faro Lesa Zipline. If you don’t want to walk back down, the zipline will get you there in about 60 seconds. We walked. LOL.

The best view in town from Lighthouse Hill

We saw lots of interesting plants and birds too

Enjoy the Observatory

The Mazatlán Observatory, known today as Observatorio 1873, traces its origins to the 19th century. The hill where it stands was originally used as a military lookout point to protect the port of Mazatlán from possible naval attacks.

One of the funnest things we did was visit the restored observatory. Today it serves as a cultural and educational attraction. After extensive renovation in the 21st century, visitors can explore a museum, botanical gardens, a bird sanctuary, and a sky bar, while also enjoying incredible views. Don’t miss this!

The beautiful historic building is now a museum

Wander through Old Town

Mazatlán founded in 1531 by Spanish explorer Nuño de Guzmán, evolved from a small indigenous settlement into a major Pacific port. It became a bustling international hub in the 19th century, shaped by German immigrants who established commerce and the Pacifico Brewery.

Old Town (Centro Histórico) has undergone extensive revitalization, transforming it into a vibrant cultural hub with 19th-century architecture, plazas, and the restored Angela Peralta Theater.

Recent efforts in 2024-2025 focus on enhancing the urban image through improved sanitation, lighting, graffiti removal, and the installation of informational plaques, supported by a mix of public and private investment. Plazuela Machado: The heart of the district is surrounded by sidewalk cafes and restored, brightly colored colonial buildings.

Take time to enjoy the shops, Mercado, cathedral, and the festive atmosphere.

So Much Wonderful Food

We came. We saw. We ate. Mexico’s cuisine is absolutely one of the best, if not THE best, in the world. And Mazatlan does not disappoint. Home to one of the largest shrimping fleets in Mexico, Mazatlan loves shrimp and you will find it on nearly every menu. Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico menus also feature fish, ceviche, avocado, fruits, pork, beef, masa, cheese and of course Pacifico Beer (founded in Mazatlan).

Our favorite restaurants we visited were;

Topolo Mazatlan Mexican Restaurant we enjoyed an outstanding meal at this beautiful courtyard restaurant in Centro Historico. I highly recommend you get a reservation and visit Topolo when in Mazatlan.

Los Panchos you can’t beat the beach front view and don’t miss the tableside Tequila Cheese! Oh My God it was so good, and also fun to watch. The menu is big and everything is delicious. Highly recommend a visit to Los Panchos.

F.I.S.H. Fresh International Seafood House Mazatlan this hidden gem is worth seeking out for the wide selection of delicious seafood options in an open air restaurant.

El Muchacho Alegre waterside spot with outstanding seafood, a perfect stop when strolling the Malecon. We enjoyed a gigantic ceviche and cold cerveza on a hot day.

Posado Freeman Rooftop Bar – we did not eat at the Posado Freeman Hotel, but enjoyed drinks at the fabulous rooftop bar at sunset. Get there early…it’s worth it.

Sunset from the rooftop at Posado Freeman

Explore all that Mazatlan has to Offer

Mazatlan is alive with culture, color and cuisine. Enjoy the beach, but don’t miss out on all the other wonderful things in the beautiful little city by the sea. We definitely won’t wait another 43 years before we visit again. Gracias Marvelous Mazatlan Mexico.

See last week’s post Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm. Come back next week to learn all about tamales!

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Food & Drink -- North America Travel

Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm

Finding Hidden Gems in CDMX

February 13, 2026

Laureen

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Mexico City. It amazes me. We visited for the third time and still could not possibly see all it has to offer. Rich with history, culture and food, it is one of my favorite cities in the world. If you think Mexico is only beaches and tacos, you are missing out. Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm.

Why Third Time?

I had avoided Mexico City, assuming that a city of 23 million people could not be charming. The largest city in North America (New York City is 9 million), Mexico City seemed daunting to me. But in late 2021, when Mexico was one of the few places open for travel, we decided to visit for a five day food tour organized for us by Eat Like a Local Mexico. Here is the post I wrote following that unique experience Eating My Way Through Mexico City.

Mexico City Street Food — Food Tour with Eat Like a Local Mexico City in 2021

And I was smitten. After the first visit we realized how much more there was to see and do beyond just food! So two years later we returned, to eat and to discover more deeply this remarkable city. Here is my report from that lovely experience So Much to Love About Mexico City.

So here we are again in 2026 Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm. On this visit we set out to see more new to us areas of this amazing city, as well as one day trip. We also took advantage of revisiting three of our favorites. Let me tell you all about Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm.

What’s so Special

In a word, it’s the people. Not just in Mexico City, but everyone we have met throughout Mexico are incredibly kind and happy. They are kind to each other and to visitors. So much laughter. They are patriotic, and proud of the diverse history and culture they share. Religion and faith play a big part of their lives. When we stumble with the language, someone comes to the rescue. They love it when a visitor uses small amounts of Spanish. Never mocking. Just helping.

History of Mexico City

You might be surprised to know, Mexico City is built on top of a lake. This giant city began on an island in what was once a lake. Today Mexico City has structural issues because of it. Here is some history to understand it a bit better;

Mexico City, the oldest capital in the Americas, was founded as the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan on an island in Lake Texcoco in 1325. Tenochtitlan, evolved into the senior partner of the Aztec Triple Alliance that dominated central Mexico immediately prior to the Spanish conquest of 1519–1521. At its height, Tenochtitlan had enormous temples and palaces, a huge ceremonial center, and residences of political, religious, military, and merchants. Its population was estimated at least 100,000 and perhaps as high as 200,000 in 1519 when the Spaniards first saw it. During the final stage of the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire, Spanish forces razed Tenochtitlan. Because it was strategically and politically important, invader Hernán Cortés founded the Spanish colonial capital of Mexico City on its ruins, becoming the center of Spanish colonial power. (Edited from Wikipedia)

Today’s city of 23 million people stretches 1,485 to 1,525 square kilometers (571–589 square miles), with the remains of the original Tenochtitlan found in what is known today as El Zocalo, the heart of the city.

Hidden Gems and Old Favorites

Now that I know this city better, I realize how many hidden gems there are, and how hard it is to really see it in one visit. So, let’s try three times. First, let me tell you about three Old Favorites;

Old Favorite

Ballet Folkloric – Our second visit to this beautiful show was just as good as the first time. Now in its 67th year, if you come to Mexico City and don’t see this performance of traditional Mexican dance, you haven’t seen Mexico City. I would go a third time if I visit again. The theater is stunning.

Eat Like a Local – Our third time doing a food tour with Eat Like a Local. I believe this company to be the best food tour companies in the world. And guess what? They just were featured in the New York Times. They have grown and gotten even better since we first got to know them in 2021. Spend a little extra and enjoy the hidden foods of CDMX with Eat Like a Local Mexico. You won’t regret it.

Find the hidden gems with Eat Like a Local like this Michelin Star Taco Stand

El Zocalo – The heart of Mexico City is the El Zocalo also known as Constitution Square. Always something going on, always something entertaining, Zocalo is a must. Here you find the center of Aztec Tenochtitlán, known as the Teocalli. As well as the home and offices of Mexico’s President, the National Palace (see more about this below). And standing sentry over it all is the Catedral Metropolitana, an icon of the city. Construction began in 1573 but took 240 years to complete. Don’t miss it.

Changing events and art exhibits in El Zocalo

Hidden Gems

National Palace – tricky to get the free ticket, but you should try. The National Palace is home to Mexico’s President, as well as her office. It is a high-security building, but visitors are allowed in to view the remarkable Diego Rivera murals that took him 21 years to paint. Tickets are not available online or by phone. You must go to the office located at #4 Moneda Street at 9:30am and wait in line to get a reserved time. Come back at your reserved time. You must have ID and no bags or purses allowed (you can check it), only cell phones and wallets. Totally worth the trouble. One of the best things to see in all of Mexico City.

Diego Rivera mural in the National Palace

Temple Mayor – on our first visit to CDMX we did a walking tour, and visited the ruins of Tenochtitlan in the Zocalo. But we did not realize until this visit, what gem of a museum is included at this historic site. We had intended on revisiting the Anthropology Museum, but opted to do Temple Mayor instead, and I am so very glad we did. Allow plenty of time for this remarkable museum of the history of this Aztec site and of Mexico. You will find this easily at El Zocalo.

Temple Mayor Museum display of thousands of artifacts inside the museum

Ruins of Tenochtitlan at the Temple Mayor

In the Tepeyac Neighborhood

Basilica Guadelupe – this vast complex is a very important site for the very devout Catholic people of Mexico. Even if you are not Catholic, or even religious, it’s fascinating to visit. The complex is made up of multiple churches, and shrines including the shrine at the top of the hill commemorating the miracle. In 1531 an apparition of the Virgin Mary appeared to indigenous peasant St. Juan Diego on Tepeyac Hill. She requested a shrine, and as proof for the bishop, she caused roses to bloom in winter and imprinted her image on Juan Diego’s tilma (cloak), which remains intact after nearly 500 years. The faithful make pilgrimages here and it is a very important shrine.

Today several of the churches are sinking (very visible) and after the 1985 earthquake there was much damage. A new, giant and very modern church is now part of the complex. The site offers both history and a fascinating opportunity to see the customs and faith of the local people who make pilgrimage to Basilica Guadelupe. It’s easy to take th subway to the complex from the historic center.

And There is More

Diego Rivera Mural Museum Museo Mural Diego Rivera – Established in 1988 specifically to house the 1947 mural “Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central” (Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central), which was saved after the 1985 earthquake. Following the devastating earthquake, this mural, which had been in the lobby of the Ritz Hotel, was quickly secured. The hotel was a complete loss. This new museum was designed specifically to house this important work of art of Rivera. Diego Rivera is an iconic figure of Mexico City.

Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central

It’s important to note that the main museum of Rivera’s work is located in the CDMX neighborhood of Coyacan. Anahuicalli is a masterful museum and you should consider visiting it as well.

Close of mural that includes Diego and Frieda

Popular Art Museum – this museum was a complete surprise to us. Located very near to the Diego Rivera Mural Museum, you can easily combine the two. The layout of this museum is a bit strange, because it is located inside an old firehouse. But the preservation of Mexico folk art and handicrafts is definitely worth a visit. Baskets, textiles, sculpture, pottery, paper mache and much more. I enjoyed it very much.

Day Trip

Puebla and Cholula – we used VIATOR to take an all day tour to Puebla and the great pyramid of Cholula. We learned a lot about this fascinating region of Mexico, which was new to us. Our guides were enthusiastic and informative. I think if you have the time you should spend more than one day though. I would have liked a couple of days in the beautiful city of Puebla. It’s a long day, but if you can, I recommend a visit. It is possible to go by bus from CDMX and less expensive than a tour, but you should consider staying overnight if you take the bus.

The ancient Pyramid at Cholula and the basilica built on top

How to Get Around

Do Not Uber. Seriously, traffic in Mexico City is bad, and a taxi or Uber will be slow and expensive. Take the subway. We went everywhere on the subway. It is clean, efficient, on time, safe and CHEAP ($0.25 per ride). Don’t fear the subway in Mexico City.

Safety

We felt safe every where we went in CDMX. As in any city, there are areas you should avoid. Mexico City is well known for protests on any day and at any time. Be prepared for detours due to protests. For your protection don’t participate in protests. The subway is safe, and stay in the tourist areas. Hire guides to visit other areas, including if you want to visit the gigantic La Merced Market. And be aware, drivers in Mexico are fast and aggressive, but usually yield to pedestrians in cross walks. Be a smart and aware traveler as you would in any destination and you will enjoy this beautiful city.

We walked everywhere and used the Subway and felt very safe

Where to Stay

Casa de la Luz – our past two visits we stayed at the fabulous Red Tree House boutique hotel in the Condesa neighborhood. It wasn’t available this time, so we chose Casa de la Luz in the historic center. Wow. We absolutely loved this beautiful hotel, the staff and the amazing breakfast. It was also really great to be within walking distance of all the major attractions as well as several subway stations. We paid $150 USD per night – a bargain for what we got.

Where to Eat

Tezontle – Little did we know when we booked our hotel Casa de la Luz that it was home to one of the best restaurants in the historic center of the city. On our final night in the city we had an exceptional meal that included ceviche, tableside salsa preparation, mushroom salad, tableside soup preparation and more. Served with a smile.

Roldan 37 – I saw a suggestion on Instagram for Roldan 37, and I jumped right on it because it was only a few blocks from our hotel. Wow. We loved our meal here in a beautiful unique space in a new-to-us neighborhood. This restaurant we highly recommend ordering the customized tableside preparation of guacamole – don’t leave out the chapulines (toasted grasshoppers)! We loved this entire meal.

Sanborns – Frida and Diego loved to “be seen” here, and you should too. Even if you don’t get into the beautiful restaurant, you should at least admire the gorgeous blue tiled building, known as La Casa de los Azulejos. The building has been home to Sanborns Department store, and famous restaurant since 1919.

Eat Like a Local Mexico – and another shout out for Eat Like a Local. Because you will never leave an Eat Like a Local tour hungry. Offering both day, night, market and other unique tour options. This is where you really get to know the food of the people of Mexico City.

Eating our way through Mexico City with Eat Like a Local

Mexico City Third Time’s a Charm

Third time IS a charm. But I suspect we aren’t yet done with this amazing city. There are many more museums, restaurants, historic sites, markets and oh my goodness, so much food yet to enjoy. Mexico City. One of the most incredible cities in all the world…and you know I am qualified to say so. We will visit again.

Popocatépetl, affectionately known as “El Popo” or “Don Goyo,”is an active stratovolcano located about 70 km out of the city

As always I thank you for your continued support and interest in the work we do here. I invite you to comment and ask questions, to share and to pin. Come back next week for more about amazing Mexico. It never gets old.

See last week’s post Visit San Miguel de Allende Mexico. Another amazing Mexico city. Gracias.

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North America Travel

Visit San Miguel de Allende Mexico

Heaven on Earth in Picacho Mountains

February 6, 2026

Laureen

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Someone asked me recently why we are traveling through Mexico? She phrased the question this way; Why are you are spending so much time in Mexico because you usually go places more exotic? Wait. What? If you are a long time follower of this blog, you will know we go everywhere, including Mexico. I’m aware that many Americans travel to Cancun, Cabo, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta…beach resorts. But our favorite places in Mexico are in the interior, where you can find “exotic”, beautiful, delicious, historic cultures and cuisines. And this is why we took a week to Visit San Miguel de Allende Mexico, Heaven on Earth in the Picacho Mountains.

View of San Miguel de Allende from our hotel rooftop

Where is San Miguel de Allende?

San Miguel de Allende (SMA) is located in Central Mexico. Many visitors to San Miguel take a luxury bus from Mexico City, about 4 hour drive. We however flew into Queretaro International Airport coming from Merida. Queretaro is the major airport servicing SMA and the Guanajuato region. We hired a driver to take us the hour and a bit to San Miguel.

Located in eastern Guanajuato, Mexico, within the high-altitude and dormant Trans-Mexican Volcanic Belt San Miguel’s elevation approximately 1,910 meters (6,270 ft). It is characterized by a semi-arid, temperate climate, rugged terrain with several surrounding peaks, and a position on the Laja River tributary.

San Miguel de Allende is in the Guanajuato region of Central Mexico (Wikipedia)

The coldest time of the year in San Miguel de Allende is typically late December through January, with January being the coldest month overall. During this period, average nightly lows drop to around 36 F with highs in the low to mid 70’s F. During our January visit we saw one overnight of 46 F and high of 77 F. May is generally considered the hottest month, with average highs around 84°F–88°F (29–31 C). While days are hot, evenings remain relatively comfortable, though nighttime temperatures increase, with lows in the mid-50s°F

Visit San Miguel de Allende Mexico

The mild mountain temperatures make SMA a hotspot for American and Canadian visitors escaping the cold northern climate. A good reason to Visit San Miguel de Allende Mexico.

Long and Fascinating History

Founded in 1542 by Fray Juan de San Miguel as a strategic outpost on the silver route, San Miguel de Allende evolved from a 16th-century Spanish garrison into a prosperous 18th-century colonial center. It played a critical role in the Mexican War of Independence, ultimately becoming a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its preserved baroque architecture and vibrant arts scene.

Former home of wealthy merchant today this beautiful building is a bank and museum

The UNESCO World Heritage Site designation did not happen until July 8, 2008, at a time when many of the historic structures were about to be modernized. The designation, which includes the nearby Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco, was awarded for its exceptional 16th-century Spanish colonial architecture, cultural integrity, and its historical role in the Mexican War of Independence. The Centro area of SMA is now preserved.

There is much more history to this beautiful city and I recommend you explore with a historian. We did so with Elise Torres, who helped us understand the Spanish, indigenous and slave history of the mountainous region. Consider starting with a GPSMyCity walk on your own, but learn much more with a local guide like Elise at Taste of San Miguel. To be honest, we were not impressed with the Museo Historico and recommend you spend time with a guide instead.

Jardin Allende

The main, central plaza in San Miguel de Allende is popularly known as El Jardín (or Jardín Allende), located directly in front of the iconic Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel. It serves as the city’s vibrant, tree-shaded heart, surrounded by shops, restaurants, and historic colonial buildings.

Locals, visitors and nightly mariachi bands make this beautiful park the place to be. With spokes of streets off in all directions, you can find beautiful shops, delicious restaurants and historic places surrounding Jardin Allende.

Clean and bright and cheerful Jardin Allende

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

Often referred mistakenly as a cathedral, the Parish of San Miguel Arcangel is not the oldest, but certainly the most iconic structure in San Miguel de Allende. All walking tours will include this incredibly beautiful structure, but here is a bit of history to share I found online;

“Originally built in the late 17th century with a modest facade, the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel in San Miguel de Allende was famously transformed in the 1880s by indigenous mason Zeferino Gutiérrez. Inspired by European Gothic cathedrals and working from postcards, Gutiérrez designed the iconic, pink limestone neo-Gothic spires by drawing in the sand with a stick for his workmen. This stunning, soaring structure, which serves as the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage town, represents a unique blend of local craftsmanship and European inspiration, instantly recognized as the symbol of the city.”

The detail of this structure is incredible

It’s really important that you see this church at all times of the day (especially after dark) to really appreciate the magnificence of the pink local stone and design.

For a unique and colorful view of the Parish, view it from Aldamo Street, one of the most colorful streets in all of San Miguel de Allende.

Aldamo Street is popular photo stop for visitors

Mercado

As in every city we visit, we enjoy a wander through the local Mercado. In San Miguel we visited the Mercado Ignacio Ramirez, a colorful but not huge market for the locals. It’s a great place to wander and photograph the colorful produce, meats and flowers. I also recommend having lunch or a snack at the many local booths.

We also visited the Mercado de Artesanias, a very large market of local artisans. Overall SMA is more expensive than many Mexican cities, including for locally made crafts. However, we found the prices at the Mercado de Artesanias less expensive than in the shops near the Jardin Allende.

Off the Beaten Path

Our week long stay gave us time to wander beyond the center and we loved some of the discoveries we found. This is the kind of city you really want to take some time to get lost, although it is also laid out mostly in a grid, so you can’t get too lost. In our wanderings we found these incredible spots;

Colorful hidden gems throughout this magnificent city

Biblioteque Publica

One of the most incredible places we visited, is this fantastic cultural center and library of San Miguel. Providing library service to both locals and visitors (with a large English section) the Biblioteque is located in a former Hogar de Nuestra Señora de Santa Ana. The beautiful building is 18th-century, founded by Father José Hipólito de Aguado as a home for women. Expropriated in 1862 during the War of the Reform, the structure later served as a town market before becoming the library’s home in 1958. Check out the wide array of classes, readings, children’s activities, concerts, theater and more.

The Biblioteque gift shop is a work of art, and sells locally made products

Murals Guadalupe

I saw a reference to Guadalupe Street somewhere, but did not find much information in any of the blogs or tourism info. So we decided to just go looking for what I believed to be an artist neighborhood. And we found it. Guadalupe is a small, residential neighborhood outside the Centro to the north, that is home to a variety of beautiful and interesting murals. Because it is outside the UNESCO area, the murals are allowed. Walls and fences and gates of houses and businesses are home to colorful and fun murals. Definitely worth a walk about.

I love the broom coming out of her eye, a woman had been sweeping as we arrived

Museo la Esquino

On the same day we wandered into the Murals Guadalupe we also stumbled upon the Museo la Esquino (Toy Museum). This incredible museum is not listed in any of the tourism sites I explored, and it was one of the best museums I have been in recently. Unfortunately no English, but there are guided tours you can book ahead. We explored this remarkable collection of both old and new toys from around the country, and marveled at some of the intricate work by artisans and local people. An absolute must see when in San Miguel de Allende.

Many handcrafted little gems in this wonderful toy museum

Charco del Ingenio Botanical Gardens

Another place not enough visitors to San Miguel see is the Charco del Ingenio Botanical Gardens. Perched on a hill high above the city, you can easily take a taxi or an Uber. But you know us…we walked! Straight up! It was a work out but worth it.

The arid mountainous region is home to a vast array of cacti

We visit botanical gardens around the world, most are usually manicured collection of both indigenous and plants from around the world. Others, like the Charco del Ingenio, is all native, with trails and signage in a natural setting. The gardens are expansive, include a reservoir and a canyon too! You will also find an stunning view overlooking the city below.

During our visit we enjoyed identifying seven new-to-us birds, as well as several other unique birds to the arid mountainous region. Entrance fee is only $5 USD. Don’t miss this walk in nature.

Do not miss a visit to Charco del Ingenio Botanical Gardens

Things For Our Next Visit

We did not see everything. And we are intrigued to return for a longer stay. There are more hiking trails we could explore as well as horseback riding. The historic town of Delores is nearby and is said to be the site of the Mexican Independence birth.

The UNESCO Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco is located in the small village of Atotonilco, about 7 miles (14 km) north of San Miguel de Allende in the state of Guanajuato, Mexico.

Additionally from December through March, the mountainous area about four hours from SMA is home to the remarkable, annual, return of the Monarch Butterflies. A guided tour is all day (up to 14 hours) so we chose to save this for when we next Visit San Miguel de Allende Mexico.

Food Glorious Food

Cooking Class And More

One of the best things I did while in San Miguel de Allende is take a cooking class with Azteca Entertainment and Chef Miguel. As you know I love taking cooking classes all around the world, and of course you can never go wrong with Mexican food. Chef Miguel was such an enthusiastic and knowledgeable teacher as he guided me and five other ladies from the USA through an amazing four hours of cooking and eating. We made Mole (MOH-lay), and the recipe was less intimidating than some I have learned. Our class also included traditional Mexican Rice, and two salsas. We enjoyed chocolate water (something new to me) as well as lots of delicious local wine.

On my next visit I would also consider Azteca Entertainment for a Vineyard Tour with Food (see website) and possibly even a chef’s dinner. If you plan a visit to San Miguel please do not miss any of these experiences with Chef Miguel and Azteca Entertainment.

Delicious Mole Enmolada and Mexican Rice

Where to Eat

We ate exceptionally well while in San Miguel de Allende. Here are a list of my favorites for your consideration;

Bastardo – casual fresh delicious in a hidden garden two blocks from the center.

B’ani Rooftop – Rooftop dining is popular in San Miguel because the way the city is perched on a mountain. We had an outstanding fresh grill here that we shared on a beautiful day. Amazing

Cafe de la Parroquia – On our walking tour we enjoyed a lovely light lunch at La Valise and the guacamole was the best

La Choperia – while watching American Football one night we enjoyed a giant burger at La Choperia, along with a lot of other screaming American football fans.

La Luna Terrazzo in the Rosewood Hotel – the place to go for stunning dinner with a sunset view, this fine dining restaurant was a bit of splurge for us, but we enjoyed lovely cocktails, pasta and wine with exceptional service.

Local Mexican wines are surprisingly delicious

Tostevere – this hidden gem in the lower area of the Centro is tiny. Reservations are recommended, but we managed a table and were so grateful we chose this as our final dinner. Outstanding food and service, fresh and delicious. I highly recommend.

Where to Stay

We stayed in a lovely boutique hotel called Casa Maricela, about two blocks from Jardin Allende. It was on a quiet street and included an incredible breakfast. One of the most amazing things about Casa Maricela was the rooftop terrace. We enjoyed it so much morning, noon and night. So grateful we chose this lovely property. We paid about $80 USD per night.

The beautiful view from the terrace at Casa Maricela

Very comfortable room with great storage

Visit San Miguel de Allende Mexico

I have heard about this town for many years and I am so glad we finally got to visit San Miguel de Allende Mexico. We definitely were smitten, and it’s easy to see why so many Americans and Canadians come here for the winter. Perfect weather, amazing food, great culture and beauty for miles. I certainly think we will come again and stay longer. Thank you for reading my post Visit San Miguel de Allende Mexico.

Let me know if you have any questions, and we love it when you share, comment and pin our blog posts. Gracias!

See last week’s post Merida a Cultural Gem in Yucatan Mexico.

Stay tuned for more amazing Mexico soon! Our next stop Mexico City.

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Merida A Cultural Gem In Yucatan Mexico

January 30, 2026

Laureen

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Location: Yucatan Peninsula

Someone asked me recently how many UNESCO sites we have visited? Oh my goodness. A LOT. Yes I should try to add that up, but there are thousands and thousands and we have certainly been blessed to see hundreds. And Merida Yucatan is new addition to the list. We had five days in this beautiful city, and here are my recommendations, Merida A Cultural Gem in Yucatan Mexico.

Enjoying Plaza Mayor in Merida and the unique confident or kissing chairs through out the city

The Mayans

I have been intrigued by the Mayan Culture since I was in grade school. As a traveler we have explored many of this civilization’s vast and interesting sites. A little history lesson for you; The Maya civilization is significantly older than the Aztec, with the Maya developing complex societies from around 2000 BC and reaching their Classic Period peak (250–900 AD) long before the Aztec Empire’s rise in the 14th century, though both cultures thrived in Mesoamerica and influenced each other.

The Maya civilization developed in the Maya Region, an area that today comprises southeastern Mexico, all of Guatemala and Belize, and the western portions of Honduras and El Salvador. (Wikipedia)

Maya Civilization region was vast (Wikipedia)

By the time the Spanish arrived in what we now call Mexico, the Maya people had left their ruling communities such as Chichen Itza (more on this later) but their descendants were still in the region. The Aztecs however had risen to power, and it is their civilization that the Spanish decimated on arrival. And yet today, many people of the area can trace their heritage to both Maya and Aztec ancestors.

Merida History

Merida’s history blends Mayan heritage with Spanish conquest. Founded in 1542 by Francisco de Montejo on the ancient Mayan city of T’ho, the Spanish used stones from the ruins of T’ho for colonial buildings, creating a unique fusion seen in its architecture. The city became a significant colonial hub. In the 1800’s the process of turning sisal (henequen ) into rope and twine created a very wealthy class of merchants. The wealth is evident today in grand mansions on Paseo de Montejo. Merida in the 21st Century is a vibrant cultural capital, preserving Mayan traditions, distinct cuisine, and colonial charm, making Merida A Cultural Gem in Yucatan Mexico.

Things to do in the City

Take a guided walking tour or do a self guided tour like we did using GPS My City. Highlights for us included:

Plaza Mayor – the main square of old town Merida where people gather day and night and festivals and events take place regularly.

Cathedral de Merida – right on the Plaza Mayor you will find a beautiful cathedral that graces the city, dating back to 1540. It is said to be the second oldest Cathedral in Latin America.

Casa de los Montejo – dating back to 1540, this historic gem has served as a mansion for generations and today houses a bank and museum. Pay particular attention to the ornate facade.

Mercado Lucas de Gálvez is the largest and most central market in Mérida, spanning 45,000 square meters and hosting over 2,000 vendors. Just steps from Plaza Grande, it’s a key destination for local produce, street food, crafts, and daily essentials in the historic city center. I have been to A LOT of markets around the world, and this one blew my mind. Don’t miss it. And while you are in the area, walk through the streets surrounding the Mercado, where the locals do their shopping. It’s like a completely different city than the tourism zone.

Colorful and lively Mercado Lucas de Gálvez

Government Palace – don’t expect a bureaucratic building, this lime green gem is home to a fantastic art collection that you must not miss.

Art collection tells the story of the people of the region in large beautiful mural style paintings by **Fernando Castro Pacheco**

Church of the Third Order of Jesus – look closely at the exterior of this cathedral and you can see how it was built (like much of this city) with stones from the Mayan pyramids of Th’o.

Moorish House – a little off the beaten path but worth making the short detour, this beautiful building has been recently restored and expanded. Over the years it has served as the US Consulate, a maternity hospital and a private home.

Paseo de Montejo – Stretching from Santa Ana to the center of Merida, this avenue is where residents have strolled for generations. Home to many of the palaces built during the wealthy sisal period, it is also home to restaurants and shops. Be sure to check out Camara Houses, Canton Palace (home of the Yucatan Regional Museum) and Quinta Mones Molina House with a really interesting museum and self guided tour.

Canton Palace home to the Yucatan Regional Museum

Day Trips Outside the City

East

Chichen Itza – less than two hour drive from Merida is the UNESCO World Heritage archeology site of Chichen Itza. This complex of Mayan ruins includes a massive step pyramid, known as El Castillo or Temple of Kukulcan. Chichen Itza thrived from around 600 A.D. to the 1200s. Graphic stone carvings survive at structures like the ball court, Temple of the Warriors and the Wall of the Skulls. There are tour buses and private tours available from Merida. I recommend you arrive before they open at 8am to beat the crowds. The large tour buses arrive around 9am.

Izamal – many Chichen Itza tours also stop for a brief visit to the “Yellow City” of Izamal. I would not recommend a special trip to Izamal, but a brief stop on a Chichen Itza tour is nice. We wandered the colonial streets and convent area, built on top of a Maya settlement from 2000 years ago.

Southeast

Cenotes – the Yucatan Peninsula is home to 10,500 cenotes (at least). These are a collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes groundwater. The term is a Mayan word originating on the Yucatán Peninsula, where the ancient Maya commonly used cenotes for water supplies, and occasionally for sacrificial offerings. The small town of Homun near Merida is home to multiple cenotes open to the public. You can visit these on your own, but we chose to go with a full day tour, which took us to four beautiful cenotes. We swam in the beautiful crystal clear blue water under ground. It was a great day.

Fully underground Cenote lit with artificial lighting

Southwest

Campeche – this beautiful ancient walled city is about two hours from Merida. It is one of the reasons we chose Merida as a central hub to stay and access many things in the surrounding region. I have had my eye on Campeche for some time. This Spanish Colonial city, once a walled fortress, dates back to the 16th century. We really enjoyed the colorful town, walking the remaining wall, the cathedral, the historic fort and the Gulf of Mexico. Being on the sea, the seafood in Campeche is also great, and we had a marvelous lunch at Marganzo Restaurante. Campeche warrants a couple of days if you have the time to spare.

Becal Jipajapa

I saved the best for last. We visited Becal to see the art of Jipajapa hat making. This was my favorite thing we did during our Yucatan visit. Becal is an hour from Merida and we made the stop on our way to Campeche. We visited a tiny local museum to learn about the iconic Jipajapa artistic hat making (also known as Panama Hat). Jipijapa refers primarily to a type of high-quality, handwoven hat made from the leaves of the Carludovica palmata plant. The best part though was visiting a local third generation family artisan workshop.

Chari making a work of art in the cave. The wooden block hat form she is using was handed down from her grandma’s grandma

Here we were given a private demonstration of how the fibers are grown, dried, processed and dyed. Then lovely Chari, known around the world for her Jipa talent, gave us a one on one demonstration. We sat in the cool underground cave where the hats are made to keep the fiber moist while handling it. It’s difficult to describe how incredible her nimble fingers are as she created her works of art. Of course I went home with a hat of my own. Do not miss visiting Chari when you are in Becal. Ask your guide to take you to Lool Jipa Chari.

Eating and Sleeping

We spent five night in Merida. The Casa Continental Hotel in the Santa Ana neighborhood of the historic center was a great find. Just outside the busiest area, but close enough to walk to everything. Really kind staff and the rooms were just beautiful. We paid just over $70 USD per night.

Breakfast

We opted most mornings to have fruit and yogurt in our room. We did have an amazing breakfast on our first morning, right across the street from our hotel at Marmalade. Highly recommend.

Lunch

It’s always good to eat where the locals eat and we had amazing, cheap tacos at Taqueria de La Union. We also enjoyed our first ever Gorditas at Gordita Dona Gorda. Watch the ladies make your Gordita as you wait. Fast, cheap, delicious.

Interesting new-to-us tacos like Turkey in black mole sauce at Taqueria de La Union

Made to order Gorditas at Gordita Dona Gorda

Dinner

We headed to Chaya Maya for an authentic Mayan meal and we were not disappointed. Favorite new-to-me foods were the dip made from pumpkin seeds called sikil pak. I also loved the melt in your mouth pork dish marinated in sour orange and achiote called Cochinita Pibil. You must try these dishes when in the Yucatan. I found this recipe online and will make Cochinita Pibil at home.

We loved our simple and healthy dinner at La Santanita near our hotel. We ate here on our first night, and I was introduced to Lime Soup, a local specialty. The chicken and lime combination was superb. I highly recommend. Here is a recipe for Yucatan Lime Soup I found online. This is an easy one to try at home.

Our best meal in Merida was at Teya Santa Lucia. We sat in the outdoor courtyard on a beautiful evening. Instead of entrees we shared several appetizers. We loved the pumpkin dip sikil pak, sausages and panuchos (a fried tortilla stuffed with beans).

How Long Should You Stay in Merida

It became apparent to us very quickly that there are many “snowbirds” or possibly full time American/Canadian expats in Merida. Not surprising as the weather is mild and comfortable from December to March, but summer can be very hot and muggy. The rainy months are June and July.

We spent five nights in Merida and we were on the go everyday. I think I would enjoy a full month in this pretty city, to enjoy more of the cuisine and culture. But if you only have three – five days you can see a lot, just as we did. There is more too, so stay as long as you can in Merida A Cultural Gem In Yucatan Mexico

How to Get to Merida

We arrived by hired car from Cancun, but there are direct flights from the United States and Mexico City. When we left Merida we flew on Viva Air (a very inexpensive no-frill airline) to Querataro then drove on to San Miguel de Allende. Merida is becoming a bigger tourism destination and a new train has also been recently opened that connects Merida to Campeche and Cancun, but schedules are still limited. Learn more about the Mayan Train here. Private buses are also a good option for getting around within Mexico.

Merida A Cultural Gem In Yucatan Mexico

Thank you for reading my post Merida A Cultural Gem In Yucatan Mexico. We loved our time in Merida, our second stop on a month long tour of Mexico. I definitely can see us returning to this city for the culture, the food and the very friendly people, all at a price that is right. Gracias Merida. We hope to see you again soon.

Most restaurants have Tortilla Ladies making fresh tortilla all day long

See last week’s post Beautiful Cuba an Amazing Ten Days here.

Keep following for more about our Mexico adventures as we continue our tour!

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