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North America Travel

Nashville For First Timers

What a Fabulous City

May 23, 2018

Laureen

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Location: Nashville Tennessee USA

Breakfast at Bisquit Love

Nashville for first timers. Not what I was expecting. What a wild place – crazy, historic, loud, interesting and delicious. Nashville for first timers can be a bit of a surprise though. At least it was for me!

Famous Jacks BBQ on Broadway

My high school girl friends and I went a bit rogue this time in choosing our destination for our (almost) annual girls get away. Nashville made the cut and eight of us put on our mud kickers and headed out for a country music weekend.

We stayed at the Sheraton Grand Hotel. Unfortunately we didn’t realize how spread out this city is. So my first bit of advice is be prepared to need to Uber and cab it all over town. We spent a ton of money on that – big surprise there. So if you are a Nashville for first timers virgin be prepared!

Visiting Antique Archeology

The Old Town Hop On Hop Off Trolley was a good investment though when you are doing Nashville for first timers. We bought the first day ticket for $35 and added the second day for an additional $10. I really loved the drivers of these trolleys who gave us great history, interesting stories all served up with southern charm and humor.

One of my favorite things we did from the Hop On Hop Off was visit the famous and historic Ryman Theatre where The Grand Ole Opry performed from for many decades. The theatre is really amazing and the tour was was interesting.

Historic Ryman Theatre

Nelson Greenbrier Distillery

Also I loved our visit to the historic Marathon Motor Company building. Today it’s filled with funky shops including the Antique Archeology of American Pickers fame. Also on this same block is the Nelson Greenbrier Whiskey Distillery. The $11 tour was really fascinating and included a tasting of four different spirits they distill.

From the Hop on Hop Off we also found Music Row fascinating and surprising how these famous recording studios are mostly in tiny houses and not in huge skyscrapers.

Blake Shelton’s brand new Ole Red bar on Broadway

The Honky Tonk scene on Broadway in downtown Nashville is way crazier than I imagined. It was Las Vegas with the volumn turned up to eleven. Wild. Thousands and thousands of people, hundreds and hundreds of bars and restaurants and every single one has live music blasting all day long.

Apparently Nashville is the number one destination in the USA for bachelorette parties. Young scantily clad brides and bridesmaid groups are whooping it up on the sidewalks, in the back of rented flatbeds and open top busses and on the cycle beer trucks. Loud and ready to party. Wow.

With my friends at The Grand Ole Opry Hotel

We took an Uber 20 minutes out to the Gaylord
Grand Ole Opry Hotel. This is also the place where the Grand Ole Opry now has its home. But the 3000 room hotel is a destination in itself. Again I was reminded of Vegas – ornate and over the top with waterfalls, jungles, orchids and a riverboat cruise.

Country Music Hall Of Fame

Nashville knows it’s audience and country music fans are very loyal to this town. Fans can spend hours or days at the Country Music Hall Of Fame as well as many other museums including Johnny Cash, Patsy Cline, George Jones and others. Tennessee was also home to three US Presidents (Jackson, Johnson, Polk)and the area around Nashville is full of history relevant to our country.

Corn Cakes at the historic Woolworth’s

I ate a ton – everything from corn cakes to steak, hot chicken, biscuits and macaroni and cheese. Southern comfort food as well as delicious alternatives are in abundance in this town of abundance.

You can spend a weekend or stay a week and still never see and do everything here. It’s a great town – alive! Nashville for first timers or do it again? So much fun!

Y’all should come now ya hear?

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Asia & Oceania Travel

500 Days of Summer

A Sunny Travel Life

April 13, 2018

Laureen

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Location: Lombok Indonesia

Today marks 500 days on the road – and our grand adventure living 500 days of summer. Coming from the often grey and misty state of Washington in the Pacific Northwest, 500 Days of Summer was the goal.

Sunny Australia

When we started planning our grand adventure, we set an itinerary

Sunny Tunisia

that kept us away from cold and rainy places. And not just because we love the sun – but also because it’s easier to pack for these climates.

Sunny Guam

And so it has gone along this way now, for 500 days. Waking each morning and opening my eyes and saying “hey, it’s still summer.” Nice.

Now we can’t say we haven’t seen some cool, even cold days. We were in New Zealand as

Sunny Morocco

summer turned to fall and we had some pretty chilly nights. Even in North Vietnam the nights were cool and in Halong Bay the mist hung low and we never saw the sun. In Morocco the wind was brisk and our night in the Sahara Desert camp was downright nippy. Here in Indonesia, our time in the

Sunny Maldives

mountains brought thankfully cooler temps, but certainly not cold.

Sunny Portugal

But mostly it’s been warm to hot to REALLY hot as we have navigated this summer life. More than 16 months on the road and I’m on my third (and a half) swimsuit and needing a fourth. I’m on my

Sunny New Zealand

third sun hat, second pair of sunglasses, second set of beach towels and second pair of flip-flops. I’m on my third selfie stick, my tenth bottle of sunscreen and my fifth water bottle – misplacing

Sunny Bulgaria

four somewhere along the way. My sundresses are tired and faded from sun and sweat and constant washing. I will retire all of these soon and go on a big shopping trip for fresh and new when

Sunny India

we get back to the states.

Sunny Namibia

Because after our visit to the USA (May 14-Aug 7),where we hope it will be summer, we head off on the next phase of the grand adventure, at least

Sunny Spain

another 500 days of summer.

But until then, summer continues here in Indonesia.

Sunny Seychelles

And life is sunny and fabulous!

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Best and Worst Airports of the World

The Blur of Airports in my Head

March 27, 2018

Laureen

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Location: Best and Worst Airports

It’s already late March. Where does the time go? The grand adventure has been underway for 16 months now and the flights and airports all blur together in my head. But there are a few memorable ones, for both good and bad reasons, so we thought it was time to write about the Best and Worst Airports of the World – according to My Fab Fifties Life.

Seattle on the day we left the USA

My favorite airport used to be Schiphol in Amsterdam. And I still love it. It’s like a small city and can keep you entertained for days (hopefully you don’t spend days there). On our world tour we have encountered some similar airports, mainly the hub airports that are so spectacular in Dubai, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Qatar. In these beautifully designed airports you can enjoy

Napping

fantastic works of art, delicious dining, designer and convenience shopping as well as usually a fine hotel. You can also find spas and salons, quiet zones, kids zones, smoking zones, charging zones and sleeping zones and often showers.

Almost all the comforts of home.

The Dubai Airport, a giant megatropolis is about to be closed because another even bigger one is

Coming in to Praslin

slated to open very soon. From a distance it looks like something from the future. Huge, artistic and from another world. When finished it will be largest airport in the world. Can’t wait to see it. I was told they will just tear down the other one…weird.

We have had some good experiences in some small airports too. Cape Town, South Africa was the quickest and easiest airport we ever went through. Dhaka, Bangladesh, though rundown and old, was one of the friendliest airports with helpful police who escorted us around the passport control so we could get some local currency to pay for our visa on entry.

Sunrise flight out of Perth

Small airports have a big advantage in that you can be off the plane and in your taxi in 15 or 20 minutes. No long lines, no walking miles to get to baggage claim. Arrival in Alice Springs and Cairns Australia was so quick. Maldives airport was beautiful and easy to maneuver. The teeny Praslin Island airport in the Seychelles was more like a bus station. Off the plane and on our way. Just botta bing botta bang and you are out the door. Nice.

Boarding in Marrakesh

In Koh Samui Thailand the tiny airport had a beautiful area for waiting for departure and it included free popcorn, chips, coffee and juice. I’ve never seen that anywhere else. However the approach by car to Koh Samui was poor – winding in a van through one lane residential streets weaving in and out of kids and dogs and bikes. Yikes.

In Praslin Seychelles there are so few flights a day there is a traffic light to hold traffic when a plane is landing. The plane’s approach is over the road. But usually it doesn’t matter. There is very little car traffic either.

Many smaller and medium size airports look very much the same. It’s difficult to distinguish

On board we always try to have aisle seats across from each other

between them. Dubrovnik, Madrid, Santiago, Cape Town – all the same.

We landed in Guam at 3:40 in the morning. In a daze we maneuvered to the car rental area, happy to find them open and waiting for us. Hallelujah!

Less impressive experiences were in Manila, where the waiting area on the concourse was so tiny and crowded we had to sit on the floor. There was no ATM machine and the unimpressive food kiosks only took local currency. In Casablanca, the airport was fine but the baggage handling with Air Maroc was the worst. Our bags on our short flight from Marrakesh disappeared and no one could find them. When they were found, it was because I went and searched every luggage carousel in the airport and found them myself.

Passport control was horrible in Tunisia and Siem Reap, Cambodia where we stood in line for more than hour for no reason other than one passport control guy wanting to be an ass and seem important.

In Sofia Bulgaria, the small but new and nice

On the tarmac

airport was marred by the unfriendly and unhelpful tourist information desk and the fact that there was not a single ATM at the airport.

In Ho Chi Minh City the airport was okay but it was the dishonest taxi driver who put a bad taste in our mouth. Trying to trick us and drive us in circles and tell us a 100 bill was a 10.

On departing Delhi India the service at the check in counter was so slow that even though we allowed three hours we barely made our flight. And we went through security intending to find a cash

Seychelles

machine on the concourse only to be told ATM’s were only in the check-in area. What?

Our beautiful hotel in the Singapore airport

Sometimes when we have really long-haul flights we will break the up with overnight (and sometimes a day) at an airport hotel. SInce we aren’t pressed for time we find this a great way to avoid jet-lag. We have done this in Dubai, Qatar, Bangkok and Singapore.

We only have a few flights left before we board a cruise ship for our final leg back to the USA. We have learned a lot – how to pack and plan, prepare and endure all these flights. We’ve also learned to just relax because most of the time it’s all out of our hands.

Flight # 52 today to Sydney Australia! Away!

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Asia & Oceania Travel

The Great Barrier Reef Australia

Just Keep Swimming

March 22, 2018

Laureen

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Location: The Great Barrier Reef Australia

“Hey, Mr. Grumpy Gills… When life gets you down, you know what you gotta do? Just keep swimming.” – Dory the Fish from Disney’s Finding Nemo

Nemo

Finding Nemo is one of my favorite Disney/Pixar movies, and this past week I have had endless Finding Nemo moments and quotes running through my head. Being

in Australia and finally snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef, my thoughts have wandered to the

Reef and fish

adventures of that movie and I have smiled to myself underwater and thought “Just keep swimming.”

Although going out on a snorkel trip on The Great Barrier Reef took us way over our Grand Adventure daily budget (actually everything in Australia is

Birdseye view

taking us over budget), we could not come here to beautiful Cairns and not see the reef. It’s another one of those “I don’t have a bucket list” bucket list items. I love snorkeling and I wanted to have that once in a lifetime opportunity.

The weather on the day we went wasn’t great – grey and overcast and we even saw some rain. I am in constant worry about my motion sickness

Colorful

problem, so I stood outside and watched the horizon the entire hour and half boat trip out to the reef, even when the rain started to come down. Hey I was gonna get wet anyway right? Luckily, thanks to massive amounts of drugs, my sea sickness problem did not materialize while on the boat. That was a good sign!

“You got a problem, buddy? Huh? Huh? Do ya, do ya, do ya?” Dory

We booked our reef tour with Reef Magic out of

Marine World of Reef Magic

Cairns which took us to the outer reef and a pontoon platform stationed there called Marine World. We disembarked the boat to the pontoon and here we were outfitted with our snorkels, fins, masks and Lycra “stinger” suits to protect us from

Jellyfish

jellyfish.

“I shall call him Squishy and he shall be mine and he shall be my Squishy.” Dory

Reef Magic offers many options from the pontoon, all at an additional charge including snorkel safari, snuba, scuba, glass bottom boat, semi-submersible boat and helicopter rides. But since

That’s us!

we had already exceeded our budget (for two of us we paid $426 Australian about $330 US), we were just interested in snorkeling. We were dressed and ready to go pretty quickly and one of the first people in the water.

Us with Wally

We immediately encountered “Wally”, one of the biggest fish on the reef. Luckily Reef Magic’s professional photographer was on hand as we entered the water and she got some amazing shots of us with Wally. All the photos in this blog are from Reef Magic’s professional photographer. Since we don’t have an underwater camera we have never gotten underwater photos on any of our snorkel trips on the Grand Adventure. So, despite the fact my husband almost wet his pants when I told him the price, we bit the bullet and bought the photos for an additional $75 (about

Hey Wally

$60 US).

“Ahh you guys made me ink.” Pearl

Wally is a resident fish of this part of the reef. He is an amazing species called Maori Wrasse. This fish is a female for the first eight years of its life. And then poof. It’s a male. I know – what the heck? Isn’t that nuts? Some times I think Mother Nature is menopausal!

Coral

After our encounter with Wally we began to explore the reef. Marine World has a cordoned off section of the reef for its guests to enjoy. Within this area there was a huge variety of corals; big, small, blue, green, orange, white. Some are soft and rounded, others spikey and dangerous looking. In all the

Coral

snorkeling I have done, I had never seen coral that waved in the current like it did here. It’s a beautiful thing to watch. Most of the coral we see in our lives is dead. And while its pretty even when it is dead and dry, the beauty of live coral is spectacular. Yes this is an incredible living

Coral

creature and we surely must protect it.

“Righteous! Righteous! ” Crush

So I loved the corals and kept going back for more of that but of course there were the fish. Many, many fish. I don’t know all their names, but they really are beautiful to watch. Some of the fish are very solitary, just going along and doing their

Fish!

business, feeding and swimming and doing what fish do. Other fish keep in groups, large schools that move together almost as one, weaving above and around the coral mountains. There are some fish that are so tiny you don’t even see them until you are swimming right through them, while others

Giant Clam

are so big that they freak you out a bit. Many fish are shy and you need to look inside the coral to find them. There are also beautiful giant clams, sea slugs, squid, eels and rays. And no we did not see any sharks.

Ray

“From this moment on, you shall now be known as Sharkbait.” Gill

We swam to the outer edge of the roped off area and we were alone in this section just as a beautiful turtle swam by on the surface. We

Turtle

almost missed him because we were looking down and he was swimming right next to us on the surface. But then he dived and we watched him swim to the bottom looking for a snack. I believe this was a loggerhead turtle. We had seen this kind in Sri Lanka. Beautiful brown bodies and not too large. We watched him swim away beyond the area we were confined to and into the great wide ocean.

“Saw the whole thing, dude. First you were all like “whoa”, and we were like “whoa”, and you were like “whoa…” Crush

After about an hour we went back to the pontoon to have a rest. Reef Magic served a buffet lunch

Pontoon

that included salads and fruit, bread, chicken, sushi, lasagna, curry and roast beef. But I only ate a little cause I continued to worry about my motion sickness. Arne ate my share. It all looked good. Coffee, tea and water was also available and a bar on the boat was open when we weren’t underway. Clearly they have had motion sensitive passengers before and they were well stocked with ginger beer (like ginger ale, non-alcoholic). My beverage of choice.

“I am a nice shark, not a mindless eating machine.” Bruce the Great White Shark

Fish in all sizes

We headed back out to snorkel more after lunch. The water seemed a bit calmer but it was also more cloudy so not as easy to see – but that was okay. We tried to swim to all the areas and to the far-reaching parts of the swimming area. We noticed most snorkelers stayed very close to the boat. Understandably if you are an inexperienced snorkeler or not comfortable in the water. Reef Magic had life jackets as well as float noodles and other devices for anyone looking for a little more reassurance.

Some are shy

We snorkeled for about 30 minutes and then decided to call it a day. We went back on the pontoon and stretched out on a lounge chair for the next hour and a half. Surprisingly, despite the overcast sky, it was warm and we both got a bit of a sunburn.

My Fab Fifties Life!

Finally it was time to turn in our gear and make our way off the pontoon and back to the vessel for the hour and half ride back. Once again I stood and watched the horizon the entire way, including during a deluge about half way home.

But I did it. I did not get sick. I snorkeled the Great Barrier Reef. I can check that off the “I don’t have a bucket list”

Dory

bucket list. And remembered to just keep swimming.

“Just keep swimming. Just keep swimming. Just keep swimming, swimming, swimming. What do we do? We swim, swim.” Dory

Thanks goes to the wonderful photography of Reef Magic!

Read more of our Australia adventure here

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Visit South Korea – Spend a Weekend with the Monks

March 10, 2018

Laureen

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Location: South Korea

Visit South Korea for some amazing experiences, delicious foods, spectacular scenery and to spend a weekend with the Monks. You won’t regret it.

Our group together

I’ve done a lot of cool things in my life. A few experiences stand out to me. As I have aged I am more aware how unique some of these moments have been; taking a shower on the Serengeti with water heated over an open fire, eating honey and coffee with the leaders of a village in Ethiopia, sitting cross legged on the floor in the traditional home of an ancient Japanese master paper umbrella artist while he gave my family a personal demonstration of his craft. Swimming with sea lions in Galapagos, dolphins in Zanzibar and Manta Rays in Hawaii. Participating in the annual bird inventory on Molokai and summiting Warma Wanusqa Peak (13,500 feet) on the Inca Trail in Peru. I’ve danced with the natives in a Burkina Faso village, and discussed motherhood with the Himba women in Namibia. Remarkable experiences all.

Enjoying our vegetarian meal

I never really set out to accomplish anything specifically unique. I only have found myself in situations that seem unique to others. And these moments are the ones that have defined me and have broadened my awareness of the world. These moments I hold dear, each difficult to describe or put into words and accurately share. They are the definition of indescribable.

Learning about the prostrations

In Korea I had an indescribable experience lucky enough to spend a weekend with the Monks in the Geumsunsa Temple in the mountains outside of Seoul. Adding this to my list of unique and memorable life experiences. I really recommend both a visit to South Korea and a weekend with the monks.

I went into this with next to no knowledge of Buddhism. I still know very little, but I did gain awareness of a way of life that is not a religion, but a goal to practice living life with an open heart. According to Buddhist traditions a Buddha is a fully awakened being who has completely purified his mind of the three poisons of desire, aversion and ignorance.

The Geumsunsa Temple is perched on Mount Bukhan to the North and West of Seoul. We arrived late, our GPS refusing to cooperate and maneuvering through the streets of Seoul without it proved a difficult task. Once we found the parking lot at the base of the mountain we hiked the last quarter mile straight up the mountain to the temple entrance – the only access to the temple is on foot.

Arne at the silent breakfast

Arriving late I was frazzled and frantic, and certainly not in a transcendental state of mind, but I took a few deep breaths and prepared myself to spend a weekend with the monks. We entered in a room with about a dozen other people where the orientation had already begun. We sat quietly in the back trying to catch our breath and catch up on the presentation. It was presented in both Korean and English.

We were given a tour of the temple and some history. The 1000-year-old temple is small compared to some (five monks when some temples have 200) but it is very beautiful and well maintained. I wish I could visit in spring or fall, I’m sure it is spectacular when all the foliage on the mountain is out.

South Korea a weekend with d with the monks

Dinnee

We were served a very good vegetarian dinner with soup, rice and multiple kimchee and vegetable choices. We were instructed that we had to eat everything that we took, down to the last grain of rice. No food could be wasted. We were shown how to use an apple slice to clean our plates of all food remnants so they almost appeared to not even need to be washed.

Mindfulness

Following dinner we were escorted to the Buddha room, a beautiful part of the temple adorned to praise Buddha, the teacher. A Buddhist temple is called Vihara and is a place for education. In the shrine room of each temple is where a large Buddha and statues of his disciples are. Here is where we began our 108 prostrations. I was worried about accomplishing this task. Starting in a standing position to lying prone on the floor, methodically and with purpose 108 times in a row. I was already finding my body was having a great deal of difficulty sitting cross-legged on the floor – an unnatural position for most Americans. We were instructed how to do the prostrations and how to release our minds from turmoil. The practice of Buddhism is the never-ending humbling of the ego. Humbling yourself before the world, by lowering your body you realize that you are one with everything. Performing 108 prostrations is yet another path towards the realization of the True Self.

And so we began. 108 times; each prostration symbolizing a goal, or gratitude or repentance; For example; I prostrate myself to show appreciation to my parents for giving birth to me. Or I prostrate myself to ask forgiveness for people I may have hurt. Or I prostrate myself for a humble mind. Or I prostrate myself for peace among all countries and an end to all wars.

And on and on, 108 times. It lasted about 30 minutes and I was sweating and exhausted when it was over.

The beautiful temple

We were later asked to choose one of the prostration sentences that spoke to us specifically and we drew pictures then shared with the group. Many people in the room were brought to tears during this circle time; some feeling stress in their jobs or sadness in lost relationship, and others wanting to show love to their parents who are ailing. It was an emotional experience for many. I chose the one that asks to be more humble. This is truly a goal I have been working on for some time, so it called to me.

I thought doing 108 prostrations would be the most difficult thing I did during my visit, but no. Sleeping on the floor was. Or trying to sleep I should say. We slept side by side (men and women separated) on an extremely hard floor with a blanket and pillow. It was a very, very long night.

Arne being flipped during the exercise program

Tea with one of our host monks

The bell chimed at 4:30am for wake up. I wasn’t sad to get up. I really couldn’t lie there anymore. Our morning was spent in silence and meditation followed by wake up exercises harder than my yoga classes and then a vegetarian ceremonial breakfast, very ritualistic and eaten in silence. We all then shared in chores around the temple before sitting down to have tea and a conversation with one of the monks. I think this was my favorite time.

We really enjoyed our friendly monks

The monk prepared and poured the tea for us as she answered each and every question we had about her life as a monk, Buddha and Buddhism, philosophy, the temple and much more. It was fascinating and enlightening to see a human being choose to live this life and walk away from everything materialistic and dedicate everything to the practice of becoming Buddha.

On top of the sunny mountain

Finally we headed up the mountain for a beautiful hike on the cold and sunny morning. We spent time sitting at the top of the mountain enjoying the spectacular scenery and each other’s company and meditating on our time together. We hiked back to the temple for our vegetarian lunch, paper lantern making and then farewell to our new friends and Temple Geumsunsa.

Farewell to our new friends

My back and hips were killing me and I was desperate for a nap and a large coffee as we hiked down the path to the car, but my heart and mind were full as I thoughtfully considered what I learned from this experience. I felt validated in my Fabulous Fifties objectives to not look outside for approval and rather to find it within. My knowledge that being true to myself, despite what others believe and grateful for all things in my life, good and bad, is the best destiny. Being honest, forgiving, following my intuition and celebrating the one short life we have is my practice.

I prostrate myself for a humble mind. Fabulous.

Note – find out how you can have this experience at http://koreantemples.com/?p=6684

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My Fab Fifties Life Travel Awards

And the Winner Is…

January 19, 2018

Laureen

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Location: Travel Awards

And the Winner Is…

Oscar nominations this week! A big week if you are a movie fan – which of course I am but since I have not stepped foot in the United States in more than 14 months I haven’t seen any of this year’s big films. But instead I have seen a world of real life drama, fantasy, comedy, mystery and animation. Enough to last a life time. So in keeping with the announcement of this year’s Oscar Nominations, I give to you our picks for World Travel Awards, Best and Worst of 2017 and 2018 – My Fab Fifties Life.

And the winner is…

Hoi An Vietnam

DESTINATIONS

Favorite City – Hoi An Vietnam

By far our favorite destination in Vietnam with it’s colorful old town, beaches, rice fields and fabulous food. We loved this place and the airbnb we stayed in here.

Most Surprising – Namibia

We came to Namibia practically blind, allowing our tour guide from Wild Wind Safaris to hold our hand and we were not disappointed. A spectacular destination I think everyone should visit.

Best Value Destination – Bulgaria

We loved our month in the friendly, beautiful and historic country of Bulgaria where we didn’t

Bulgaria

meet any Americans. Put this inexpensive and great country on your bucket list and go!

Best Overall Scenery – New Zealand

Jaw dropping scenery no matter where you go or which way you look, New Zealand is an

Abel Tasman New Zealand

outdoor enthusiast dream and is stunningly beautiful.

Most Crowded City – Hanoi

The scooters alone make this wild city that never sleeps total chaos. Then add the cars, trucks, carts, pedestrians, vendors and well – its pretty wild.

Most Beautiful City – Split Croatia

Whether you are perusing the mega yachts in the

Diocletian’s Palace, Split

harbor or wandering through Diocletian’s Palace, Split is a magical place and my favorite Croatian city.

Most Interesting City – Fez Morocco

Around every corner as you get lost in Fez there is something interesting and amazing and I enjoyed this maze of a city

Fez Morocco

Most Disappointing City – Tangier Morocco

Getting lost in Tangier is easier but nowhere near as fun as getting lost in Fez. We found Tangier a bit of a disappointment.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Best Airbnb for Service – Asilah Morocco

We adored our “mom” Latifah during our ten days

Latifah unveiling the Tajine

in Asilah and wanted to put her in our suitcase and take her with us. The food and care she gave us was unparalleled.

Best Airbnb Overall – Koh Samui Thailand

We had a lot of discussion over this one. We have been, frankly, so lucky with our airbnb’s. And even this one had a few quirks. But we loved it for the view, the private pool and the car that came with it. It was however, also our most expensive Airbnb. https://myfabfiftieslife.com/sweet-samui/

We loved our private pool in Koh Samui

Most Authentic Airbnb – Siem Reap Cambodia

Staying in an authentic Khmer home in Siem Reap was a treat in itself, but then adding the wonderful breakfasts and services our host provided us made this place one of our all time favs.

Cambodian Khmer House

Most Unusual Airbnb – Motueka New Zealand

Funky Truck

We spent two nights in a funky old truck/camper with an outhouse and it was a hoot.

Most Rustic Airbnb – Hikkaduwa Sri Lanka

We nicknamed this place Castaway Cottage and it was like living on Gilligan’s Island – complete with lots of critters including rats, snakes, mongoose, monitor lizards, gecko and BUGS!

View from our Sozopol Airbnb

Best Value Airbnb – Sozopol Bulgaria

We loved this top floor unit with a huge deck and amazing view. We think we might return to this place some day, only $55 a night.

Best Hotel – Luang Prabang Laos

Luang Prabang Laos

We spent three nights in the beautiful Maison Dalabua hotel in this darling and historic city on the Mekong River and it was one of the nicest hotels I have ever stayed in. From the comfortable and spacious room, the food, the pool, the flowers and the service, everything about it was first class on a budget.

FOOD

Because noodles always put a smile on your face.

Favorite Overall Cuisine – Thailand

This is the best food in the world. Simple, healthy and so flavorful I can’t get enough of Thai Cuisine.

Best Restaurant Meal – Ceverjaria Ramiro Lisbon Portugal, Honorable Mention to Ladja Podlanica in Piran Slovenia

I’ll never forget the dinner we had at Cervejaria Ramiro with our son Erik and his friend

Lisbon Portugal

Salvador who lives in Lisbon. It was a gluttonous evening and I loved every bite. Someday I will go back. In Piran Slovenia with our friends Raymond and Marbi we gorged ourself on the most amazing anchovies in oil followed by spectacular spaghetti

Ladja Padlanika Restaurant in Piran

con vongole. We loved it so very much we went twice.

Worst Food Overall – Camino de Santiago

When we really needed the sustenance the most, our 41 days on the Camino de Santiago provided the least inspiring of food.

Best Cooking Class – Chiang Mai Thailand with Honorable Mention to Cape Town South Africa

I try to take a cooking class in most of the countries we visit, and I do it as much for the cuisine

My favorite Chiang Mai Noodles

and culture as to meet local people who love their food and want to share it. My classes in Chiang Mai (two full days) and my evening class in the home of our instructor in Cape Town South Africa fulfilled what I am always looking for.

Best Beer – Cape Town South Africa and Honorable Mention Piran Slovenia

Capetown because they had a vibrant micro brew scene and good non-lager beers available in most stores and restaurants, and Piran because here my husband had the single best beer he has had since leaving the USA. Don’t know what brand it was but it was a spectacular Slovenian IPA.

Worst Grocery Availability – Seychelles

Hands down the most difficult place to find decent produce and healthy ingredients for day-to-day cooking, we learned to eat a lot of rice, lentils and beans during our month in the

Hmong Village Laos

Seychelles Islands.

CULTURE, NATURE AND EXPERIENCES

Best Authentic Cultural Experience – It’s a tie between Hmong Village Laos and Himba Village Namibia

Seeing these two places will stay with me all my life – when you think about opening your mind to understand cultural

Himba Women and Children

differences, embrace and learn from living hand to mouth and become more tolerant of other cultures – visiting these two places had all that and more.

Best Beach for Scenery – La Digue Seychelles

No wonder Sports Illustrated Swimsuit edition has shot here several times. This place with it’s unique rock formations, sparkling white sand and out of this world blue water is about as spectacular as they come.

La Digue Seychelles

Best Beach for Spending the Day – Meia Praia, Lagos Portugal

It helped that our condo was a short walk to the beach, where we went everyday during our three weeks in Lagos. Golden sand, lots of room to spread out and easy and safe swimming made this our favorite.

Best Day Hike – Tongariro Crossing, New Zealand

An experience I will never forget, climbing the mountain, seeing the volcanic crater and lakes and just accomplishing this feat will always hold a special place for me.

Tongariro Crossing

Most Difficult Day Hike – Climbing Down Table Mountain, Cape Town South Africa

We thought down would be easier. It wasn’t. There were times where I literally didn’t think I was going to make it. My body gave it all I had, and it was

Table Mountain Hike

more than a week before I didn’t hurt.

Best Outdoor Experience – Able Tasman New Zealand

Our three-day Glamping Tour on the Able Tasman was one of the highlights of our time in that country. We were blessed with spectacular weather, met new friends and were introduced to the wonders of New Zealand.

Best Historic Sight – Angor Wat, Siem Reap Cambodia

Angor Wat Cambodia

It was a lifelong dream for me to see Angor Wat and it was not disappointing. The fascinating ancient story that unfolds in these ruins set amidst the friendly and persevering Cambodia people is not something I will ever forget.

Fewest Tourist at a UNESCO World Heritage Site – Dougga Tunisia

Nothing like having an entire UNESCO site to

Tunisia

yourself, and that is exactly what we enjoyed at the beautiful Dougga Roman Ruins in Tunisia. Not many tourists in Tunisia, but slowly they are returning, and we loved our time in this ancient country, cradle of civilization as we know it today.

Best Tour – Namibia

Our ten-day tour with our amazing guide “Seven” introduced us to this unknown country so full of natural wonders and spectacular animals. I love Namibia..

Etosha National Park Namibia

Worst Tour – Three day bus tour of the Mekong Delta Vietnam

This tour was cheap but it wasn’t worth it still. Terrible traffic, over pitched and very touristy. Sorry we went.

Most Unique experience – Camino de Santiago Spain

Even though the food was bad, the experience is now branded on my soul. It changed me and I loved it.

On the Camino

Best Live Performance – Tie Violin Concert Piran Slovenia and Carmina Burana outdoors in Dubrovnik; Honorable Mention to Kandy Cultural Show, Kandy Sri Lanka

Front row seats in a tiny historic theater in beautiful Piran Slovenia made for a special night as we enjoyed a beautiful violinist accompanied by a guitarist. It was just so pleasant. Just as mazing the spectacle that was hearing Carmina Burana performed outdoors in historic Dubrovnik

Carmina Burana performed outdoors in Dubrovnik

town center. Spectacular!

Kudos also to the very authentic Sri Lankan dance, music and firewalker show we enjoyed (also front row seats) in Kandy Sri Lanka.

Best Nature and Animal Experience – Etosha National Park Namibia

I’ve said it before – this country was such a surprise and this National Park was the bomb.

Best Free Experience – Free Walking Tours

Our Free Walking tour guide in Sofia Bulgaria

In nearly every major city you can take what is known as “Free” guided walking tours. These are awesome and we love them because it is always a local guide, someone young and enthusiastic. You tip them at the end – so its not really Free – but it is worth it and we have done this at least ten times. A great value.

Friendliest People – Sri Lanka

Hands down the kindest and friendliest people we

Monk in Sri Lanka

have met – despite all the hardships they have been through; colonialism, monarch assassination , civil war and tsunami. Still they smile. Love them.

Worst Drivers – Vietnam

There are several runners-up here, including Sri Lanka (and we haven’t gotten to India or Bangladesh yet), but still Vietnam takes the prize for the craziest drivers, most dishonest cabbies, scooter

Scooters in vietnam

mania and absolute lack of any pedestrian rights.

Worst Experience – Dog Bite Koh Samui Thailand

Hands down the worst day has been the day Arne was bit by a dog in Koh Samui. The one saving grace is it could have been much worse. But still it makes me angry and the overall feral dog situation in Thailand makes me question whether I will ever visit again.

Experience I liked More Than I thought I would – Camel Ride, Erg Cheba, Sahara Morocco

The colors and the light of the desert at dusk, the animals, the other guest from around the

On the camel trek in Morocco

world and having this experience with our friends Sarah and Steve all added up to a very fun two days and one night camel trek in the desert.

Least English Spoken – Spain

Only in the last decade has English been taught in schools, so few adults are fluent. Especially in the small towns and villages on the Camino we did a lot of pointing and hand charades to communicate. It was fun!

WEATHER

Hottest – Seychelle’s and Honorable Mention Doha, Qatar

We saw some rain in the Seychelles but it was never

Seychelle Islands, Praslin

under 85 degrees and the water was like a bathtub. We only spent one night in Doha Qatar, but it marked the hottest one day on the

Doha Qatar

trip at 113 F.

Coldest – New Zealand

We were in New Zealand in the fall and we had a few nights were the temperature dropped in the 30’s. Living in the Kiwi Karavan we wore hats and coats and wool socks to bed to stay

New Zealand

warm.

Worst Rain Storm – Tie between Hua Hin Thailand and Koh Samui Thailand

After a two hour taxi ride turned into a five hour taxi ride in a monsoon we arrived in flooded Hua Hin Thailand not sure what we had gotten ourselves into.

More than once the sky opened up in Koh Samui, accompanied by flashing lighting and booming thunder.

Best Sunrise – It’s a tie between Napier New Zealand and Galicia Spain

I’m a sucker for a good sunrise, and we have seen

Napier New Zealand

some amazing ones but these two stand out above and beyond for the sheer majesty of the experience.

Best Sunset – La Digue Seychelles (see cover photo)

Mother’s Day Dinner in La Digue we watched the sunset from a beach restaurant and it was a religious experience.

TRAVEL

Favorite Airline – Emirates

They know how to treat their passengers, even those of us in Coach

Least Favorite Airline – Air Maroc

The only airline (after 37 flights) to lose our luggage. Eventually it was found. Plus the smell of something (not cigarettes) burning during approach. Ack.

Best Airport – Hamad International Qatar

A very user-friendly and beautifully designed airport.

Teeniest Airplane – Air Seychelles

Eight seats. ‘Nuff Said.

Most Expensive Visa – India

We haven’t even arrived in India yet, but it was hands down the most expensive Visa we have purchased and one of the most difficult online applications. Hopefully when we arrive tomorrow everything will be in order!

Easiest Airport Entry – Capetown South Africa

We breezed through passport and customs so fast in Capetown we were totally surprised.

Worst Airport Entry – tie between Siem Reap Cambodia and Carthage Tunisia

In both cases we got in the wrong line. The line with the guy who was arrogant and pompous and was going to make every passenger know he was the boss. Any sign of dissatisfaction could get you pulled out of line and make your life hell. And so we waited.

Lucky Girl. Fabulous Life Award.

So there you have it. The winner of the Fab Fifties version of the Oscars for 2017-2018. But you do know, the real winner is me. Me and my husband. The luckiest people on the planet. Who needs a little gold statue when you have a Fab Fifties Life?

What a fabulous life it is.

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Africa & The Middle East Travel

Namibia Part II

Oh The Places You’ll Go

December 10, 2017

Laureen

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Location: Namibia

Namib Desert

Namibia quickly became one of my favorite countries for its varied landscape, colorful cultures and interesting history. So although I did not see the entire country, Namibia Part II is an opportunity for me to share a bit about what I saw and learned during my fascinating ten days touring with Wild Wind Safaris. Namibia Part II – Oh the Places You’ll Go.

Only a few years ago Namibia never showed up in articles or blogs about travel destinations. But then all of the sudden there it was – stunning photos of dunes and mountains, animals and oceans. Article after article listing it as a must see destination of 2017 or an out of the way place to see before the crowds of tourists discover it.

The furthest south latitude at which the sun is directly overhead at the solstice.

And so, I wanted to be there. I wanted to see what few people had yet seen. Namibia was high on my list.

Don’t get me wrong – there are plenty of tourists, and plenty of tour operators and companies to help you find your way (check out the company we used and were so happy with: Wild Wind Safaris). But we didn’t meet any other Americans, and 99% of the tourists we met were German. Germans know about this place and flock here, partly because German is spoken here as is English, Afrikaans and tribal languages.

Most visitors come to go on safari in Etosha

Magnificent

National Park and it is a must of any visit to Namibia (see blog here). Etosha is not even remotely as crowded as the safari I did seven years ago in the Serengeti with about a million other people. Etosha was quiet and beautiful and amazing.

Sociable Weaver nest can House up to 200 birds

But a trip to Namibia really needs to include time to see and experience more than Etosha. I’ve come away from the country with an even greater appreciation of the remarkable geology of our earth, and an incredible insight to the importance of preserving cultures and not just objects and nature.

Our guide explains to Arne

Until 1990 Namibia was part of South Africa (and from 1884 until after WWI it was a German colony). Gaining its independence the country has embraced tourism but being such a new country it still has its share of problems. Like many places we have been, government corruption takes much away from the average person and tribal cultures suffer. But the roads were remarkably good (even though Namibia has the highest car accident death rate in the world) and the people we met (mostly in the service industry) were incredibly friendly both with each other and us. In fact some of the friendliest and most genuine people we have met anywhere in our travels are the Namibians. That really hit home. We never felt like we were unsafe or being cheated in anyway – although warnings of pick pockets we took seriously.

Himba women with mud hut

Namibia has 13 ethnic groups scattered about the country and the native people identify with an ancestral tribe even if they no longer live in the region where that group is. Our amazing tour guide “Seven” explained to us some of the differences and he could look at nearly every person and know immediately what ethnic group they were from. Since we didn’t see the entire country we missed learning about most tribes, including the Owambo of the north, the tribe Seven is from.

We did get to learn about two distinctive tribes – the Himba and the Damara as well as a little bit about the Herero, an offshoot of the Himba.

Little Himba girl

Using smoke to “wash” hair

One of my favorite experiences of the entire ten days was our short visit to a special Himba village where we were able to meet Himba women and children. Note the photos of these remarkable people. These are not costumes. This is the way they dress everyday. The hair style is really remarkable, and a female Himba begins wearing this hairstyle at puberty. The adornments are made partially of their real hair and animal hair and are updated every three months. Because of the shortage of water in the north of Namibia where the Himba people are found, they do not bath with water. Instead they daily “wash” their hair with smoke – literally holding their head as well as their underarms over a special perfumed smoke (similar to incense) that keeps bugs and (most) odor away. They also cover their bodies daily with a mixture of butter and ochre as a cleanser and repellant, this is what lends the red tone to their skin.

Me with ten-year old girl

The village we visited was a special place because all the children here are orphans. This is a place where Himba orphans are brought to be raised in the culture of their parents rather than being adopted out of the culture. The women here care for these children as if they are their own and there is a school here too. The people are sustained by raising goats and cattle and they have access to a well so water is available but their bathing customs remain the same.

Damara village

As we visited the women let us take photos and then they wanted to look at the photos on our phones. They seem to very much like to see themselves in a photo. The women’s first question to us was if we had children. When we said we had grown sons they wanted to know if we had grandchildren. When I said not yet they wanted to know why not? Why had we not yet chosen wives for our sons? My answer that our sons would hopefully marry someday and have kids didn’t seem to satisfy them. Their entire existence and culture is wrapped around family, child-bearing and daily survival.

Once again I am reminded of how many people live every day hand to mouth.

Dancers at Damara village

We did not visit a Herero village but these people endured near genocide by the Germans who wanted their land and intended to eliminate the Herero race to have it and the 1904 Battle of Waterberg ensued. Half of the total Herero population was

Herero Women

killed. Luckily not all were massacred and today the women have developed a very unique dress that is a unique mix of Victorian gown and petticoat and a unique cloth headpiece that is designed to resemble the horns of a cow. Today the Herero people continue a battle in court with the German government for retribution for all they lost during the genocide period.

Damara man building fire

Swakopmund pier

The Damara people, the other tribe we learned about, are the oldest tribe in Namibia. They came from the East and settled in the middle region of the country. This tribe was primarily hunter gatherers and pastoral, raising cattle and sheep and living off the land. The Damara have an incredibly unique language known as “click” language. The language uses a complicated system of mouth and tongue clicks and is very musical and fun to hear. The village we visited was a reproduction of how a village would have looked hundreds of years ago. Where the Himba live in huts made from wood, mud and cow dung, the Damara live in huts made of wood and thatch. The Damara dress was tied to the animals they raised creating clothing from

Damara Medicine Woman

sheepskins. The women use ochre on their cheeks much like we use blush today. Music and dance and making ornamental jewelry and carvings were a big part of their culture, where the women did domestic chores and the men tended the livestock.

Cape Cross Fur Seal colony

Pink Flamingoes in Walvis Bay

The geology and scenery of Namibia is as diverse as its ancient people. The incredibly beautiful red sand dunes of the Sossusvlei region are the oldest dunes in the world and the stark beauty of these dunes is remarkable. The turquoise blue water of the Atlantic Ocean at Swakopmund in contrast provides visitors and locals a cool get-away from the heat of the interior. Here on the Atlantic the fog settles every day and so do thousands and thousands of fur seals, flamingoes and other shore birds. Local seafood is a treat including the KingKlip and Kabaljou two of the most popular and most delicious fish caught locally and served everywhere.

Welwitschia plant

Dolerite Dike

From the ocean heading east within minutes you are back in the arid desert where the welwitschia plant grows – the only region in the world this unusual plant is found and growing as big as ten feet across and living as much as 2000 years I was reminded of Audrey Two in Little Shop of Horrors. The inhospitable environment has little greenery and almost no animals except birds. The valley of the moon and eroding mountain range are desolate yet beautiful in their own way – especially the interesting dolerite dike a natural phenomenon of black sunburnt rock that runs along the ridge of the mountains like the spine of a dragon. This area is home to the largest Uranium mine in the world.

Ancient rock etchings

ANcient rock etchings

Namibia’s storage hunter-gatherers and Bushman (San) people were nomadic and traveled the country wherever the animals were. Their history is written on stones in several regions and we visited two fascinating sights to learn more. The Twyfelfontein site is today a UNESCO Heritage site in the Kuene region. Guides take visitors on a walking tour of the hundreds of rock etchings estimated to be several thousands of years old. The etchings depict animals as well as human footprints and tell a story of the nomad life and the animals they followed for substenance. It is thought this place was both a message board and a spiritual gathering place for thousands of years.

“The White Lady” is the pale figure on the left

More paintings

Even more amazing though was the preserved painting of “The White Lady” estimated to be 6000 years old. This painting is located in a very remote region of the Brandberg Mountain, Namibia’s highest mountain. It is a two mile hike to visit it. Not as many people see The White Lady because the trek and the heat make it difficult. I’m glad we endured it however in 100 degree temperatures. Very different than the rock etchings, these paintings are preserved because they are inside a cave and out of direct sunlight. Discovered in 1918 and now a protected heritage site, the White Lady is actually not a lady at all. Early anthropologists believed it to be an Egyptian women, but today archeologist know it is a local tribal shaman, painted with the traditional white a shaman would have on his legs and body from dust and mud. The painting includes other human figures and many animals all painted with ochre (red), egg, animals oils, charcoal and blood. The painting has luckily withstood the test of time, although since its discovery humans have touched it and thrown liquid on it to try and see it better and this has deteriorated it. Today though it is protected and can only be reached with a guide who makes sure no one does any damage to it. It was a beautiful and remarkable world heritage site to enjoy.

Moon landscape

The Namibian people have a great deal to be proud of and I hope this beautiful country overcomes its problems and finds its strength in the world. It has so much to offer, charm and beauty, history and culture. I will never forget my time here and I can say with all seriousness it is by far my favorite African country of the seven I have been to.

Thank you Namibia. Thank you Wild Wind Safaris. Thank you Seven for showing us your remarkable home.

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