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Discover Bordeaux France

It’s More Than Just Wine

April 25, 2025

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Although I was able to visit Bordeaux for a long leisurely stay, you can really enjoy this city with only a few days. Bordeaux has a surprising food scene (read last week’s blog post Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City), as well as culture, arts, nature and history. It is still relatively under the radar as far as destinations in France, and I fell completely in love with it. Come with me to Discover Bordeaux France.

From the Cite du Vin viewing the Pont Jacques Chaban Delmas Bridge through my wine

Walkable

One of the best things about this incredible city is how walkable it is. There is a tram, inexpensive and convenient, but during our month long stay we walked and walked. Our Airbnb was exactly one mile to the iconic Saint Andre and the start of the old city. Bordeaux’s historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is full of marvelous limestone architecture dating back through the centuries.

Cailhau Gate entrance to Old Town Bordeaux

Though Neanderthal findings of the region date back 20,000 years, the city itself was founded in the 12th century. The region has a remarkable history under French and English rule. Read about it here.

When visiting any new city, I always advise you do a walking tour – especially if you have a short amount of time. A walking tour will orient you, give you great historic insight as well as recommendations on how to spend your time. We loved our tour with Free Bordeaux Walking Tours.

Looking at historic Bordeaux from across the Garonne

We also loved our Food and Wine Tour with Bordeaux Bites. I highly recommend this tour for getting an overview of the foods of Bordeaux and France. Our guide Alex was a wealth of information and we loved all the tasty treats and wine we had on our tour. Read my post from last week all about the foods of the city; Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

Alex from Bordeaux Bites was an amazing guide

The River

The Garonne is the focus of Bordeaux both today and historically. The river is where wine was transported for centuries, and still today the port is active for river cruises, tour boats and pleasure boats. Because Bordeaux is situated just 100km from the sea, the Garonne River has a surprising tidal change, and due to that tidal change, and the clay river floor, the water appears to be brown. This is not pollution, and locals like to refer to it as caramel.

Pont de Pierre built in 1860 was the first bridge to cross the Garonne River at Bordeaux

We enjoyed an afternoon boat ride with Yacht Bordeaux which we booked through Get Your Guide. It was informative and beautiful. From the water it’s a expansive view back to the city, and our guide who spoke both in French and English delighted us with tidbits of the city.

We enjoyed learning about the history and the river on our boat tour

Be sure to spend some time along the Garonne promenade area, a literal highway for cyclists and pedestrians. Walk and enjoy seeing the river-cruise boats in port, the historic view of the UNESCO Old City, or dine at one of the many restaurants near the Cite du Vin. It’s a lovely and popular place with both visitors and locals.

Miroir d’eau is one of the beautiful attractions along the Garonne promenade

Wine (duh)

Bordeaux lives and breathes wine. It is what truly defines both the city and the region. Bordeaux wine production began sometime after 43 AD, during the Roman occupation of Gaul, when the Romans established vineyards to cultivate wine for the soldiers. However, it is only in 71 AD that Pliny the Elder recorded the first real evidence of vineyards in Bordeaux. Wines of Bordeaux are the second oldest in France, with Provence taking the lead.

Although white wine is certainly available, Bordeaux IS red wine. The reds are medium- to full-bodied with bold aromas of black currant, plums and an earthiness like smelling wet soil or pencil lead. Depending on the quality, vintage and what region within Bordeaux the wine is from, fruit flavors range from more tart fruit to sweeter ripe fruit.

When Thomas Jefferson was in France (before he was President) his love of Bordeaux wines helped bring attention to the region and its fine wine.

Enjoying a glass of wine from on top the Cite du Vin

New to Wine? Pas de Soucis (do not worry)

In next week’s blog post I’ll talk about visiting vineyards and villages outside of the city, possible with a tour or on your own. For a one day tour I recommend Olala tours. Consider the full day tour of Saint Emilion and Medoc. But if you have limited time here are my wine suggestions;

It’s easy to learn about wine in Bordeaux. It’s what they do.

La Cite de Vin – visit Bordeaux’s wine museum, in a unique but somewhat controversial architectural building on the river Garonne. City of Wine is a bit expensive ($35 Euro) but if you want to learn about history of the region, wine and also enjoy some wine, be sure and add this to your visit.

Learning about the different aromas of wine

Wine Shops – Bordeaux is home to dozens of wine shops, many also serving as tasting rooms. Everywhere we visited the staff was helpful, unpretentious and spoke English. Our favorite was L’Indentant. Even if you don’t plan to buy wine, you must visit L’Indentant to see the spiral wine staircase. Stunning.

Wine Bars – there are nearly as many wine bars in Bordeaux as Wine shops…sometime they are combined. If you just want to try a glass or two with some nibbles, a wine bar is a great option. The absolute best wine bar in Bordeaux is Bar a Vin. It is affordable, service is helpful and it is in a beautiful space.

Be sure to visit L’Intendant Grand Bordeaux

Wine Tasting – many, many options in the city for tasting, but if you want something really special sign up to visit La Pied a Terre. This humble shop near the Opera House is run by two enthusiastic and knowledgeable brothers. During the two-hour class we learned so much great information about local and world wines, tasted three wines and had a lot of fun. Highly recommend.

Cathedrals

Bordeaux is home to many beautiful cathedrals. As in most European cities, cathedrals are open to visitors all day, even during services. We are not Catholic, but we always make a point to step into any cathedral or basilica when traveling. And since Bordeaux is so walkable, we found ourselves in some beautiful churches. GPS My City has a Cathedral walking tour I recommend, as well as an architecture tour you should try.

Saint Andre was originally constructed in the eleventh century

Saint Michel Basilica was built in the 14th century

Arts and Culture

Bordeaux is home to the beautiful Grand Theatre de Opera with many performances. We make a point in many cities to visit the historic theaters when possible, and we did here. Our visit was for a modern dance performance which was excellent. We really enjoyed seeing the beautiful historic architecture of this building built in 1780.

Beautiful Bordeaux Opera House Grand Theater

If you have time, Bordeaux has many art museums, history museums and maritime museums. See the list here.

Nature

If you have enough time to take a day and get out into nature close to the city, we have two recommendations for you. On the right bank of the Garonne, a paved trail runs the entire way from Saint Jean bridge to Jacques Chaban-Delmas bridge, with beautiful trees, flowers and views back across the river to the historic old town. It’s a flat, easy and beautiful walk.

Many things to admire on a walk on the right side of the river

Even better, take the C tram to Parc des Expositions (the end of the line), then walk about a kilometer to Reserve Ecologique des Barails. We spent half a day here enjoying the beautiful spring blooms and bird watching. We had a picnic and nearly had the entire park to ourselves.

Loved the quiet Reserve Ecologique des Barails

Markets

Everyday somewhere in the city is a market. Near Saint Andre, the center of the old town, a market seems to happen everyday. We perused a book market, a vintage market and a fresh produce and cheese market.

On Thursday and Sunday along the Garonne promenade a really nice market brings fish mongers, meat vendors, produce and cheese vendors to the people. This is a popular place to eat oysters and drink wine with friends, especially on Sunday.

Marche de Capucins is the main market in Bordeaux, and it lies on the far south end of the old city, just past the beautiful Saint Michel Basilica. If you go, be sure to visit in the morning to see the local producers at work. It’s also a great place to grab lunch.

Bon Appetit

I’ll mention again my blog post from last week Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City – a few amazing suggestions. If you have time and want to delve deeper into the cuisine of the region, book a cooking class with Chef Daniel and Erica at The Gastronome Bordeaux. When I return to Bordeaux (and I will) I want to take their immersive class. You will learn a lot from David and Erica.

Discover Bordeaux France

Dare I say I liked it more than Paris? It’s less expensive, less crowded and unpretentious – all things we love. The food, wine, history, shopping and people are amazing. I am so glad to Discover Bordeaux France. I think I could live here. Get beautiful Bordeaux on your travel list soon – before others Discover Bordeaux France.

Come back next week for my post on Day Trips from Bordeaux France.

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review The Frozen River by Ariel Lawhon

April 23, 2025

Laureen

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I loved this book. Listened to it on Audible while we were traveling in Australia. It was well written and well narrated. Though a work of fiction, Lawhon has well researched the story of real life 18th century midwife Martha Ballard and woven a remarkable tale of mystery, family, love and perseverance. Here is my book review The Frozen River by Ariel Lawhon.

Maine

For most of us I think Martha Ballard contribution to midwifery has lived under the radar. Lawhon brings this amazing women to life in The Frozen Women. We are introduced to Martha in winter 1789. It’s a hard scrabble life for Maine’s residents during the long, cold winters. The frozen Kennebec that runs through the village of Hallowell Maine will be the center of this story.

Healer

Martha Ballard is a healer, midwife, and pursuer of justice. Over her decades of service she has become something of a legend in our village, called open for births, deaths, and tragedies of all kinds. On a cold winter night she is summoned when a man is found dead and frozen in the river. This death is on the heals of a recent brutal rape, allegedly by two of the towns most wealthy and important men. Now one of those men is dead.

Female

Martha is, of course, female. And the local male doctor believes he is more skilled at both determining the cause of death and saving mothers in childbirth. Martha’s talents and practices are questioned at every turn, by men of wealth and power including the powerful local judge.

Martha is undeterred, despite the worry her husband has for her safety. She pursues justice for the woman who was raped and safe health care for all the women of the village. All while dealing with her own family members and their various own pregnancies and medical needs. She is nothing but astonishing in her commitment to others during a time when women are expected to stay quiet and submissive.

Diary

In her real life Martha kept a daily diary of all the goings on in the village, every birth she attended. Every ailment and death as well as much of the activities and gossip of Hallowell. This diary becomes both a tool for writing about Martha centuries later, and a key piece of evidence against the corrupt judge.

Book Review The Frozen River by Ariel Lawhon

I loved this book, and I am sure I would have loved it just as much reading it as I did listening to it. It has a compelling story line, excellent character development, beautiful descriptive narrative and a fabulous female protagonist. Martha Ballard is an unsung hero worth knowing more about.

Thank you for reading my book review The Frozen River by Ariel Lawhon. Be sure to see last week’s book review Saving Ellen by Maura Casey.

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Europe Travel

Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City

April 18, 2025

Laureen

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Location: Bordeaux France

Bonjour Bordeaux! Spending an entire month in the underrated French city of Bordeaux has been such a lovely luxury. We have enjoyed beautiful spring weather, surprisingly low prices, kind and generous people and of course incredible food. Let me tell you all about Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

Bon Appitit

I have visited France numerous times, but this was my first visit to Bordeaux. It was recommended to us by Parisian friends as a great location for a long stay. And indeed it has been. Still flying under the radar, this ancient city on the Garonne River is undergoing a renaissance. Over the past twenty years Bordeaux has gone from dilapidated to divine. Cleaned up, yet still a bit gritty – Bordeaux is un-apologetically authentic. And the food is well…magnifique. Let’s talk about it.

Pain (Bread)

Eat the pain. Eat all the bread. Bread from a boulangerie in France is delicious and due to no preservatives, better for you. Unlike grocery store bread in the USA, bread in France needs to be purchased and consumed daily for freshness. It’s amazing how much better it is. Bread in France, like many local foods, is highly regulated by the government to ensure quality. To be called a “boulangerie”, a bakery must make its own bread fresh on-site, no pre-made dough allowed. A baguette must weigh 250-300 g, be 55-65 cm long, and any bread labeled “tradition française” must be produced following a very specific recipe. And as someone with a sensitive tummy, I notice no issues when eating in France.

A patisserie is a French bakery that sells pastries. In France and Belgium patisserie is also regulated and using the word is restricted to bakeries who employ licensed maître pâtissier (master pastry chefs).

So delicious, every bite. This is the tiny local boulangerite where we bought our bread.

Viande & Voaille (Meat & Poultry)

Beef, lamb, pork, duck! We ate it all and more. French cuisine features meat and poultry often, and we specifically visited several restaurants to enjoy these classics. I had steak tartare at a little hole in the wall called Petit Mignon (Arne had a giant hamburger) and we ate lamb, duck and fois gras at La Tupina. We also had grilled pork and steak frites for lunch at Brasserie de Chartrons. Bordeaux takes these classics seriously while also focusing on local specialties. All served with the most incredible Bordeaux wine.

It’s not for everyone but I love steak tartare

Grilled duck with fois gras at La Tupina. One of the best meals I have ever had.

Fall off the bone tender pork at Brasserie de Chartrons

Fruit de Mer (Seafood)

Though on a river, the city of Bordeaux is only 100km from the Atlantic ocean. This proximity makes seafood abundant, fresh and delicious. We love shellfish and had local oysters on several occasions as well as delicious moules (muscles). In addition we enjoyed squid, sea bass, tuna and octopus.

Fried shrimp and octopus at Les Halles des Bacalan

Canele (Bordeaux’s Favorite)

The name canelé comes from the French word for “fluted.” According to cookbooks, the canele Bordelaise could date back to anywhere between the 15th and 18th centuries, and most of the history books concur that the pastry originated in various convents around the winemaking regions of Bordeaux in Southern France.

On arrival in Bordeaux we immediately noticed shops selling these sweet little bites. There are a couple of chain stores that sell them, but luckily and unknowingly we popped into a small proprietor, considered Bordeaux’s best – Cassanade. Very delicious crunchy exterior with a creamy rum and vanilla baked center. Hard to describe but definitely easy to eat.

Nourriture Ethnique (Ethnic Choices)

Bordeaux is home to wide range of immigrants who have brought their cuisines to this international city. Lebanese, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, Italian and even Mexican which I find is rare in Europe. One we tried and loved was a delicious Peruvian restaurant called Blind. Blind had a prix-fixe dinner menu (very common) with Peruvian classics like ceviche presented with a French twist. Very good.

We also visited an amazing Cambodian restaurant just a few minutes walk from our apartment called Kampot. Lovely little spots like these are authentic and delicious. The proprietor was our host, waiter and cook! So very kind and the food was delicious!

Amazing coconut lemongrass soup at Kampot

If You Only Have a Few Days

I get it, most people don’t come to Bordeaux for an entire month. So I have a couple of recommendations if you only have a few days. Definitely plan ahead and make some bookings. Remember that the majority of restaurants are open from about noon to 2:30pm then close and don’t reopen until 7:00 or 7:30. Many restaurants (and shops too) are closed on Monday. There are some touristic places near the main squares that you might find open all day. But it is our recommendation to try to eat where the locals eat. And that means eating during the hours the locals eat. This is how we indulged in Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

Fresh in season white asparagus is very popular in the spring. Tender and delicious

Bordeaux Bites

Definitely find time to do a food and wine walking tour with Bordeaux Bites. If you can start your visit with this tour, you will come away with a great understanding of what makes the food scene of Bordeaux tick. I highly recommend it. Our guide Alex was amazing and he emailed me after the tour many restaurant suggestions. Merci Alex!

We learned so much about the nuances of French fromage

We tasted many meats and pates on our tour

The Gastronome Bordeaux

We loved our cooking/baking class with Chef Daniel and Erica at The Gastronome Bordeaux. This is where we learned the history and nuances of Bordeaux’s iconic sweet treat canele. I can highly recommend this class, but you might also consider their full cooking class with market tour or their duck class. Delicieuse!

Look what I made! So yummy. I need to try this at home.

Les Halles des Bacalan

This wonderful food hall, Les Halles des Bacalan, is such a delight…we ate there twice. Especially if you only have a few days in Bordeaux, this collection of gourmet delights under one roof is perfect. Popular with locals and visitors, you can walk around and choose what looks good and sample many different foods of the region. We had seafood, wine, charcuterie, and more. I highly recommend.

Wine Tasting

Of course I have to at least mention wine…we are in Bordeaux after all – where they produce over 700 million bottles of wine a year. Everywhere you go to eat there will be a wide variety of local wine offerings at amazing prices (compared to USA prices). Do not worry if you know little or nothing about wine. Ask just few questions, or ask the waiter to make a recommendation. Everyone we met was kind and helpful and very willing to introduce the local wines to novices. It’s surprisingly unpretentious.

Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City, included lots and lots of wine. Not just at every meal, but also at wine bars. A wine bar or a wine shop (most also serve as wine bars) is an exceptional way to be guided through the delicious local wines. We particularly liked Le Bar a Vin.

I’ll have more about wine in Bordeaux in our next two blog posts coming soon.

Marche des Capucins

Everyday somewhere in the city there seems to be markets; book market, vintage market, flea markets. And on Thursday and Sunday along the Garonne river there is a beautiful fresh produce and fish market. But Bordeaux’s main market is open every day – the Marche des Capucins. We enjoyed it for produce, cheese, meat and oysters. Even if you aren’t cooking yourself, you still should visit (in the morning is best) to see the colorful market at work. It’s also a great place to have fresh oysters and sandwiches.

Amazing assortment of pates, saucisson (sausage), and prepared foods

Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City

There is much more than food in this beautiful city. So I hope you will come back next week to read about my recommendations to Discover Bordeaux. I also hope you will get Bordeaux on your travel list, sooner rather than later. Come in the spring. Come in the fall. Even come in the winter. But please don’t come in the summer. You will love the city more completely without the crowds, tour buses and cruise ships.

I can’t get enough French coffee, here we shared a chocolate covered crepe and watched the world go by.

I definitely will be back – maybe even for more than a month. Merci Bordeaux. J’adore Bordeaux!

We love it when you comment, share and pin our blog posts. Merci. See last week’s post Birds of Beautiful Bhutan here.

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review Saving Ellen by Maura Casey

April 16, 2025

Laureen

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The coming of age story is a frequent plot line in many novels. But this story is not fiction. Saving Ellen is a memoir of a large Irish family, growing up in the sixties and dealing with terminal illness. Here is my book review Saving Ellen by Maura Casey.

Buffalo New York

As adults, we all look back on our childhood from a vantage point unimagined while we were living it. Maura Casey takes advantage of her long career as a journalist and editorial writer for the New York Times to eloquently describe the tumultuous years of her own growing up, using humor and brutal honesty as she looks back.

A working-class Irish family in the 60’s and 70’s in Buffalo New York is not so hard to imagine for most of us. But the chaos this family lived through, due to terminal illness of one of their own, might be. And if you have struggled with caring for a family member who is chronically ill, you will identify closely with this family.

Sisters

Saving Ellen presents Maura’s memories of her childhood, and her close relationship with her older irrepressible sister Ellen. When Ellen is diagnosed with kidney disease, the entire family and their world will begin to revolve around “saving Ellen”.

Though Maura realizes the importance of focusing on Ellen’s illness and recovery, she finds herself with her own quiet youthful struggles and nowhere to turn. She internalizes things that are happening to her (including a sexual assault) in an effort to not cause the family more angst. She wants her beloved sister to get well, but also resents the mayhem Ellen’s health has created for the family.

Family

Maura’s father is a well known philanderer and drunk, while her mother is the champion for Ellen and the family. Focused and determined, Maura’s mother will risk her own long-term health to save Ellen by donating a kidney during a time when this procedure was dangerous and uncommon.

Tumultuous

In an already tumultuous time period in America, this family lives through a family crisis, held together by their love and determination for each other – and a smart, strong and determined mother. Tragic and uplifting, with moments of humor and gratitude – Saving Ellen is a beautiful story of family ties.

****Four stars for Saving Ellen by Maura Casey. Thank you for reading my book review Saving Ellen by Maura Casey. See last week’s book review Nightwatch by Jayne Ann Philips.

I received this book, Saving Ellen by Maura Casey, gratis from Books Forward.

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Birds of Beautiful Bhutan

April 11, 2025

Laureen

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Bhutan, a small landlocked kingdom nestled in the eastern Himalayas, is renowned for its rich biodiversity. The birds of beautiful Bhutan thrive here. The country is home to over 700 species of birds. Bhutan’s varied elevations and diverse habitats range from subtropical forests in the south to alpine meadows in the north. This remarkable variety is largely due to Bhutan’s unique geographical features and its commitment to conservation. This is how we came to enjoy the Birds of Beautiful Bhutan on our recent visit. Note most photos in this post are screen shot from Merlin Bird App. We highly recommend this app for amateur bird watching.

Respecting Nature

In Bhutan, the combination of pristine ecosystems, traditional agricultural practices, and a strong cultural ethos that respects nature has created an environment where numerous bird species thrive. On our ten day tour with My Bhutan, our guide Lhamo was well trained in bird guiding. She immediately recognized our desire to see as many birds as possible. She went out of her way and worked closely with us to make that happen.

Arne and Lhamo finding birds on one of our many hikes

Our Bhutan tour kept us primarily in the Northwest part of the country. During our visit we marked off 40 new-to-us birds, and enjoyed sightings of many others we have been acquainted with in the past.

Birds of Beautiful Bhutan

Among the most notable birds of beautiful Bhutan is the national bird, the Raven (Corvus corax). The black Raven holds great cultural significance in Bhutanese folklore and spirituality. The Raven symbolizes intelligence and adaptability, often seen soaring above the mountains and valleys. Additionally, Bhutan is a critical habitat for several globally threatened species, such as the Black-necked Crane (Grus nigricollis). These elegant birds migrate from Tibet to Bhutan each winter. During this migration they are celebrated in local festivals, highlighting the deep connection between the birds and the Bhutanese people.

Diversity

Bhutan’s varying elevations contribute to distinct ecological zones that support a wide array of bird life. In the southern foothills, rich subtropical forests can be found. This region is home to vibrant species like the Great Hornbill (Buceros bicornis) and the Indian Pitta (Pitta brachyura). Ascending into the temperate forests, here you find the majestic Himalayan Monal (Lophophorus impejanus). Elusive but captivating are various species of Thrushes and Warblers. Higher up in the alpine regions, the striking Snow Pigeon (Columba leuconota) and the magnificent Himalayan Snowcock (Tetraogallus himalayensis) can be spotted. These beauties showcase the incredible adaptability of birds to harsh mountain environments.

Finding the Birds of Beautiful Bhutan is a popular activity for both locals and tourists. Bhutan attracts ornithologists and nature enthusiasts from around the globe. The country has invested in eco-tourism. This focus provides opportunities for visitors to engage in guided birding tours led by knowledgeable local guides. Local tours not only facilitate bird watching but also promote awareness of conservation. Tours showcase the efforts of preserving Bhutan’s unique ecosystems. Bhutan continues to navigate the balance between development and environmental stewardship. The avian diversity remains a testament to the nation’s dedication to protecting its natural heritage.

More Birds to See

Will I ever have an opportunity to visit Bhutan again? I don’t know, but I would love to see the southern part of this remarkable country. There are many more birds to see. Perhaps I can be introduced to even more of this nations diverse wildlife, bird life and nature. What a remarkable country it is.

Thank you for reading my post Birds of Beautiful Bhutan. Please see last week’s post Bucket List Bhutan – Land of the Thunder Dragon here.

Be sure to come back next week as I begin a series on Bordeaux, France.

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review Night Watch by Jayne Anne Phillips

April 9, 2025

Laureen

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Night Watch is a story of the chaotic aftermath of the Civil War. The novel won the 2024 Pulitzer Prize for Literature. Published in 2023 it is a work of historical fiction. Here is my book review Night Watch by Jayne Anne Phillips.

Coming of Age

This is another coming of age story. We meet 12 year-old ConaLee who tends to all aspects of her family in the rural cabin post Civil War. ConaLee cares for her sick mother and three baby siblings as well as her abusive and tyrannical “Papa”. ConaLee does not remember the time before the war, or when her mother was not ill.

Mental Illness

This novel looks at how trauma, abuse and grief can result in depression and mental illness. It explores through the eyes of ConaLee what life inside the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum might have been like.

Memory Loss

“Papa” drops ConaLee and Eliza at the door of the Asylum and drives off leaving them abandoned. The pair will be met by the Night Watch, a man named O’Shea. He wears an eye patch and has a serious head injury from The War. Unknown to ConaLee, he is tied to her and her mother in a very deep and surprising way. Can Eliza come out of her deep depression? Can O’Shea retrieve his lost memories? And can this happen in time for all to reconcile the past, the war and find a way forward?

Book Review Night Watch by Jayne Anne Phillips

There are some wicked characters in this book. Phillips has a great writing style to describe the horrors of war and the chaos that followed. There are also some endearing characters in this book, particularly the strong-willed and determined ConaLee. My criticism of the book is that there are several coincidences the move the plot forward. I found those coincidences a bit far-fetched. But the novel is a beautiful chronicle of surviving when all seems to be lost.

****Four stars for Night Watch by Jayne Anne Phillips.

Thank you for reading my book review Night Watch by Janye Anne Phillips. See last week’s book review Long Island by Colm Toibin.

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Bhutan Bucket List, The Land of the Thunder Dragon

Bucketlist and Worth the Wait

April 4, 2025

Laureen

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bucket list noun : a list of things that one has not done before but wants to do before dying

I have been thinking about Bhutan for so long…honestly didn’t know if it would ever happen. It’s remote, expensive, and definitely under the radar for most travelers. But for us, it ticked a lot of boxes we look for in a destination. So we made it happen – Bhutan Bucket List, The Land of the Thunder Dragon.

The Thunder Dragon

In this Buddhist country overflowing with symbolism, myths, and beliefs, Bhutan is known as Druk Yul or the “Land of Dragon”. The name comes from the violent thunderstorms that sweep down from the Himalayan Mountains.

More than 85% of the Bhutanese people practice the Buddhism, in the only Buddhist democratic constitutional monarchy in the world. The people are strong in their faith, their love of their King and country, and their love of their unique and beautiful cultural traditions.

Why Bhutan?

Fifteen years ago I saw a photograph of Bhutan’s iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery. It blew my mind. I vowed to see it one day. This was before we set out on our retirement travel adventures. Back when we had no idea this travel obsession would become a way of life. Back when I never dreamed we could, and would, travel the world. But through careful planning and sheer determination, we have visited so much of this planet including our Bhutan Bucket List , The Land of the Thunder Dragon.

A Culture of Happiness

Gross National Happiness is a term coined by His Majesty the Fourth King of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck in the 1970s. The concept implies that sustainable development should take a holistic approach towards notions of progress and give equal importance to non-economic aspects of well-being.

Our lovely guide Lhamo , hiking high above the Haa Valley

The first and foremost reason for the uniqueness of Bhutan is the happy people living in Bhutan. The concept of ‘happiness’ in the Kingdom is very much derived from the contentment that Bhutanese feel about their lives. It is also instilled through the Buddhist values of simplicity and compassion.

Shoes off – custom at all Temples and Monasteries

Bhutan’s free and accessible education and healthcare systems are pivotal in enhancing its citizens overall well-being and happiness. This is a government funded system that insures everyone even in remote areas have the services they need.

As an American, I can’t say I live in a country where my happiness takes priority. Often it feels quite the opposite. As a visitor to Bhutan you immediately sense that something is different here; in the interaction of the people with each other and with visitors. In restaurants, in museums, in monasteries, even in traffic. People are happy, engaged with each other and welcoming to guests.

Traditions

In Bhutan keeping cultural traditions strong and protecting nature and the environment is a large part of the lives of local people. The Buddhist goal to become enlightened is believed to be attainable only with the elimination of all greed, hatred, and ignorance within a person. These daily aspirations combine to create a fascinating, beautiful and friendly place – unlike anywhere I have visited in the world. You will see it in the traditional architecture, the traditional dress worn daily, the strong faith, the protection of animals and care of the people.

Traditional Dress of Bhutan. Men wear the Gho a knee length wrap robe. Women wear Kira a woven skirt and top

My Bhutan

Visiting Bhutan requires a guide and a driver, as well as paying the Bhutan Sustainable Development Tax. The tax fuels initiatives to protect the land, empower communities, and preserve culture. The cost is $100 USD per person per day. It’s steep, but the tax was dropped significantly after Covid. There is no guarantee it won’t go up again, so if you are considering Bhutan you might want to come soon.

We were so lucky to have these wonderful Bhutanese people to guide us through Bhutan; Lhamo and Dam. Lhamo was an expert birding guide and we were so grateful.

We chose to do a private ten day tour with the company My Bhutan. There are many companies to chose from both private and group tours, trekking and cycling tours, bird watching and even motorcycle tours. My Bhutan gave us a wonderful experience and exactly what we hoped for. We stayed in beautiful hotels, ate delicious and unique foods and had a superb and knowledgeable guide and driver. If you want to cut costs in Bhutan there are many home stays that would save you a great deal of money, but conditions can be rustic. Do your research and decide what is best for you and your budget. Bhutan will cost you more than most other destinations, but it truly is a once in a lifetime destination.

Where is Bhutan

If you aren’t familiar with Bhutan take a look at this map. Nestled in the Himalayas, Bhutan is a landlocked country that borders China/Tibet, Nepal and India. The country lies close to Myanmar (Burma) and Bangladesh. Bhutan’s remote and rugged location kept it from ever being colonized. Bhutan opened its borders to visitors in 1974. Until that time, the Kingdom of Bhutan and its people remained happily isolated. Bhutan’s current population is 800,000 in an area about one and a half times the size of Vermont.

During our visit to our Bucket List Bhutan, The Land of the Thunder Dragon, we were primarily in the Northwest. This is the region that is home to the International Airport in Paro and the capital of Thimphu. We spent our days hiking, bird watching, visiting dzongs (fortresses), monasteries, temples and enjoying astonishing views of mountains, valleys and rivers. During our visit we learned about local weaving, paper making, wood carving, traditional housing, farming and the national sport of archery. We visited local homes, enjoyed home-cooked meals and laughed and enjoyed the hospitality of everyone we met including our wonderful guide Lhamo and our driver Dam from My Bhutan.

We loved having Lhamo and Dam with us on the hike to Tiger’s Nest

What is Your Favorite

Our lovely guide asked us on our last day what had been our favorite thing we did during our ten day visit. I was loath to choose just one thing. How could I? There was nothing I didn’t like. Of course Tiger’s Nest was amazing as expected. But the unexpected stood out; the children, the Buddhist legends, seeing yaks and birds. My first time seeing the Himalayas. The cultural awareness, the magnificent traditional art – I could go on and on. You can’t possibly grasp it without coming here. You really should come and see it for yourself. Here are someof the things I will never forget:

Unforgettable – That’s What You Are

Prayer Flags

Hundreds of thousands of colorful Prayer Flags everywhere, the fabric sounding like a flock of birds in the afternoon wind, promoting peace, compassion, strength and wisdom.

Artists

Talented and patient hands weaving astonishing works of art as one of Bhutan’s national treasures. Tedious and determined work creates something of value and beauty.

Himalayas

Waking up on a sunny morning to our first view of the Eastern Himalayas, thought to be sacred by the Bhutanese, and it is easy to see why.

Green Bhutan

Helping Bhutan keep its goal to maintain 70% of the country forested by planting a tree with the local NGO Green Bhutan, thanks to our tour operator My Bhutan.

We can come back in years to come and see how our tree is doing, our names will always remain on the plant

Local Children

Hiking to the astonishingly beautiful mountaintop Khamsum Yulley Monastery and meeting the tiniest little girls selling citrus on the trail.

Suspension Bridge

Walking across the longest suspension bridge I have ever encountered over the Puna Tsang river. Fun and a little bit of an adrenaline rush.

River Rafting

Rafting down the Mo River on a beautiful sunny day. Getting soaked in the rapids, laughing and loving every minute of it.

Black Necked Crane

Seeing so many new to us birds, as well as an unexpected endangered Black Necked Crane, one of Bhutan’s auspicious and sacred animals. The cranes winter in the Probjika Valley, from November to February, so we were lucky to see a couple of stragglers in March.

Black Neck Crane, endangered and sacred. (Photo Merlin App)

High Altitude Hiking

Accomplishing one of the hardest hikes I have ever done, at 12,000 feet my lungs were screaming. But the view was worth it in the end, and more memories made.

Invigorating (and sweaty) hike. Overlooking the Probjika Valley.

Adding our own prayer flags at the summit

That’s a Yak

Seeing a yak for the first time, these incredible creatures are a vital part of high altitude living and provide so much for the local people.

Butter Lamps

Lighting butter lamps (candles made of butter) at the Gangtay Goenba Monastery to banish ignorance and replace it with wisdom and light. I definitely know some people who should light some butter lamps!

Evening Prayers

Going to evening prayers with the nuns, in a monastery with young girls as small as nine years old. A commitment to enlightenment that is hard for most people to grasp.

Bhutan Cuisine

The food – spicy, fresh, surprising and delicious – we learned to make Momo dumplings, fell in love with Chili Cheese, Hoentay buckwheat dumplings, Spinach with Pork, amazing soups and the best scrambled eggs ever. I’ll be doing YouTube videos I promise.

Momo Dumplings filled with delicious vegetables

Most Bhutanese meals we had were home cooked and served family style while seated
on the floor

Symbolism

Learning the legends of the local deities, the symbols of faith and fertility, the rituals of enlightenment and beliefs of the local people and how it is ingrained deeply in their lives.

Hot Stone Bath

Experiencing the unique and medicinal traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath. Both relaxing and stress relieving.

Archery

Watching the local obsession with Bhutan’s national sport of archery – and giving it a try ourselves. Bhutan’s version of archery is very different from anything I have seen before – and much more difficult.

I have done archery several times, but this was harder. Bamboo bow.

Bucket List – Tiger’s Nest

And finally of course, hiking to the amazing Tiger’s Nest. Leaving early in the morning and making it to the top before any other guests, giving us unprecedented views and access to the monastery. Learning the legend of Guru Rinpoche who meditated in a cave here for three years, three months, three weeks, three days, and three hours in the 8th century. It is believed that Guru Rinpoche flew to this location on the back of a tigress, thus earning the name Tiger’s Nest for the monastery that was built here in his honor in 1692.

Dream come true. Tiger’s Nest Bhutan. No photos allowed inside, so you’ll have to take my word that it was really beautiful

Bhutan Bucket List, The Land of the Thunder Dragon

While we were in Bhutan, neighboring Myanmar experienced a tragic magnitude 7.7 earthquake. I had been thinking throughout our visit to Bhutan that it reminded me of Myanmar – one of our favorite countries. With similar faiths, traditions and the kindest people, Bhutan and Myanmar are not unlike each other. My heart breaks for those amazing people we met in Myanmar. And now Bhutan also holds a very special place in my heart. Thanks for giving me a bucket list experience like no other.

Spring in Bhutan presented so many wildflowers – these are wild primroses

It’s unlikely I can afford to make another visit to Bhutan. But if I did I would certainly choose My Bhutan again. And I would consider visiting the southern part of Bhutan to see even more amazing birds and nature. A girl can hope…

Drinking surprisingly delicious, sweet and spicy, rice porridge a Bhutanese breakfast staple. Warm comfort food at the top of Chelela Pass, 3900m

Thank You My Bhutan

Thank you My Bhutan and the people of Bhutan for your generous welcome to your astounding country. I will always hold this memory close to my heart. And I will shout it from the mountain top – everyone should visit and learn from Bhutan about how to be peaceful and prosperous in a world full of war and greed.

Grateful for beautiful weather, amazing scenery, history and culture.

Thank you for reading my post Bhutan Bucket List, The Land of the Thunder Dragon. Kadrinchey Bhutan. I keep you in my heart.

Read one of my posts from 2019 about Myanmar here.

We are so grateful when you comment, share and pin our posts to help us reach a wider audience. I am happy to answer any questions you have about visiting Bhutan.

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