What does it mean to be or have a true friend? One who forgives and still loves? This is the theme of this novel. A beautifully written story of devotion and love of friends and country. Here is my book review The Lion Women of Tehran by Marjan Kamali.
Friendship
It’s the 1950’s in Iran, and little Ellie has a privledged life in a beautiful home with her domineering and narsisstic mother. Her mom, constantly claiming to be of royal blood, looks down on most people. Ellie is a lonesome girl and just wants a friend.
Ellie’s father dies suddenly and she and her mother lose all of their wealth and security, and move to the poor side of town.
When Ellie makes friends with Homa at her new school, Ellie see’s another kind of simplier life, with kind, caring parents who welcome Ellie into their humble home. Her friend Homa shows Ellie what a true friend can be, and helps Ellie come out of her shell. But Ellie’s mother looks down on Homa and Homa’s family and decides to take extreme measures to get Ellie out of the neighborhood.
A Different Life
Ellie’s mother marries the brother of her dead husband and once again Ellie finds herself in a mansion and opulent school. Years go buy and beautiful Ellie is “queen” of the school. She is slowly falling for a nice boy, when one day Homa arrives at the school too. Expecting to pick up their friendship where it left off, Ellie is conflicted by her old friend and her new status.
Coming of Age
The two young women with very different political views will come of age during the tumoltuous 60’s, 70’s and 80’s of Iran. Finding different paths for their beliefs. When Ellie makes an innocent statement in what she believes is an innocuous conversation, Homa’s life will change forever, and Ellie will live with the guilt of that night and her naivety.
The Lion Women of Tehran
Ellie and her husband will go to New York for him to take a tempory job. And soon after the Shaw of Iran flees the country and the Ayatolla Khomeini takes over. Women in Iran lose most rights and now are required to wear the Hajib. Ellie and her husband never return to Iran. Homa continues her political fight despite being raped, beaten and imprisoned.
When Homa reaches out to Ellie after years of silence, Ellie’s continued guilt resurfaces for her old friend. Homa will ask Ellie for the ultimate favor. What can Elllie do but say yes?
A story of deep friendship, political uncertainty, female strength and the ultimate sacrafice. A sweeping saga of courage and destiny and the different paths that each can take.
*****Five stars for the Lion Women of Tehran by Marjan Kamali.
We spent nine days traveling in France by rail from Bordeaux to Paris on board the SNCF, the French rail service. We visited Lyon, Dijon and Luxembourg before reaching our final destination of Paris. Train travel in Europe is an excellent way to go, but be aware! We made a few mistakes and learned a few things. Here is a recap of our nine day trip – All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail.
Upper level on our first leg
Bordeaux
After four weeks living in Bordeaux we packed up and left with regrets. We truly loved our time in that wonderful city and we will definitely return. The morning we left to begin our traveling in France by rail adventure, our train departed at 6:00am…so the Uber arrived at 5:00am.
Bordeaux to Lyon Six Hours
Since we travel for extended periods we are not light packers, and this is the main drawback of traveling by rail. Several of our trains, including this first one, we were seated in the upper deck. It’s not an easy task dragging bags up the narrow stairs. Additionally the luggage racks are not big. On our first trek there were several cyclists, but no bike racks. Some trains do offer racks for bicycles. But on this first train the majority of the luggage space for our first leg was taken by bikes, leaving us with minimal options for our luggage. First lesson, when traveling in France by rail pack light.
Early morning departure
Sunrise views
We watched the sun come up and Venus rising too out the window as we headed to Tours where we would change to a different train. I immediately realized how much more you see from a train than when traveling by car. Miles and miles of gorgeous farmland and tiny villages.
Traveling in France by Rail
But before reaching Tours we encountered our first problem about traveling in France by rail. Let me explain:
We had purchased a France-only Eurail pass via the Eurail app. The pass we selected (about $200 per person) was good for four days of train travel – with the understanding that, for the high-speed trains we planned to travel on, a separate purchase of a reserved seat was required. After purchasing the reserved seats through the SNCF app, we got a ticket showing the reserved seat. The mistake was in thinking that this was our complete ticket – it’s not! It only shows that we had paid for the seat reservation – an additional step of validating the Eurail pass (via the Eurail app, NOT the SNCF app) for travel on that date and train is necessary. So when the ticket inspector approached, we showed him our seat reservation tickets, but he also wanted to see the validated Eurail pass – we had the pass but not the validation – he was not happy – in fact he was very rude. He let us go, without really explaining what we had done wrong, or if we needed to do something more. We were left confused.
Lyon
Arriving in Lyon for two nights, we made the right decision to stay at a hotel (Campanile Lyon Centre) next to the Part-Dieu train station. Lyon has two train stations (Perrache and Part Dieu) so make sure you book near the correct one. The train station is also the metro station, so we did not need to drag our bags into the old city. We love a good Metro, and Lyon’s was great.
Lyon’s Notre Dame
Beautiful
We had two days to explore Lyon, which really wasn’t enough time but we hit the ground running. The weather was excellent.
Lyon Old town
So many restaurants to chose from
We spent most of our time in Vieux Lyon (Old Town), and we used GPS My City to follow two different walking tours on our own. Over the two days we walked ALOT.
Day One
The city sits at the confluence of two rivers (the Rhone and the Saone), thus many bridges, and there is also an upper city. On day one we started with the upper city. We took the funicular (included in your Metro ticket) up to the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral with outstanding views over the city below. We wandered down through the botanical gardens and then around to the Theatre Gallo Romaine. The Ancient Theatre of Fourvière is a Roman theatre in Lyon. It was built on the hill of Fourvière, which is located in the center of the Roman city. The theatre is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site protecting the historic center of Lyon.
Beautiful Lyon
We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring shops and food in the old town. We tasted the famous Lyon bright red pralines and dipped into one of the famous chocolate shops and enjoyed delicious treats.
Mid-day Pastry Break
Day Two
We love using GPS My City and we combined several options to spend the entire day exploring Lyon. We started with one of the most beautiful food markets I have ever seen, Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. You could spend the entire day here.
Les Halles de Lyon
Lyon is famous for this red prallines
Moving on to Place Bellacour, visiting the Little Prince statue and then Place de Cistines, Lyon’s stunning 200 year old theatre.
Place Bellacour is Europes largest public square
Little Prince statue
So Much to See
We did a lot of climbing on this day visiting Lyon Cathedral, Place de Jacobins, Place de Terreaux. La Tour Rose and the Montee des Chazeaux steps. Eventually we crossed the river on the beautiful Passarelle Saint-Vincent pedestrian bridge and using GPS My City we found the Fresque de Lyonaise, a mural depicting historic figures of Lyon. We enjoyed a lovely stroll along the river on a beautiful day.
Beautiful views along the river
It’s a scavenger hunt to find La Tour Rose, but worth it.
Montee des Chazeaux steps
Fresque de Lyonnaise
There is much more to Lyon, and we will need to return for another visit. After a quick refresh at the hotel, we headed back to Rue Saint-Jean, the main old town shopping street for dinner at the famous Chez Grand-Mere. An underground restaurant where I enjoyed a Lyonnaise dish called quennelles. It was delicious.
Chez Grand-Mere
Fish Quennelles. So good.
The city has many gathering places of beauty and heritage
Dijon
Next morning we had an easier departure time of 11:00am. We said our farewells to Lyon and boarded our next train.
Lyon to Dijon Four Hours
Alas we encountered another problem when the ticket steward came along. This time we had a woman who was sympathetic to us being novices, and she took a great deal of time to explain to us in detail what we had done wrong…something the first rude guy did not do. She was very helpful even though we had to pay 50 Euro due to our mistake….not having completed adding the specific date and train to our Eurail pass via the Eurail app. But we felt confident we finally had it right. She told us this is a common mistake…and the added costs can be much more than she charged us. So be aware!
Beautiful Dijon
Bonjour Dijon
Arriving in Dijon we were met by our American friends who live half time in Dijon, and the other half in the USA. It was a great treat to have them as our escort on our first day. It was about a 15 minute easy walk from the train station to old town. After checking in to the hotel (B&B Hotel Dijon Centre) located in a great location of the old town, we headed out to explore.
Our personal guides!
With only two days in this great city, it was nice to have “locals” to give us the scoop on the best things to see and do. We walked throughout the old town, as they shared with us their favorites and suggested things for us to do on our own on day two. We ended our day with our friends at a little hole-in-the-wall place they love called La Cave Se Rebiffe. Essentially a wine bar with a huge wine menu and a tiny food menu. We ate charcuterie, terrine, pasta and blood sausage with lots of great local wine from the Burgundy region.
La Cave Se Rebiffe Chacuterie
Learning about Burgundy region wines
Day Two
Day two we hit the ground running on our own. We headed first to Liberation Square for photos of the famous Ducal Palace. The Palace of the Dukes and Estates of Burgundy or Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne is a remarkably well-preserved architectural assemblage built in the 15th century. Today it houses the City Hall and the Beaux Arts Museum. We headed to the tourist office to obtain a 12 euro ticket to climb the Phillip the Good Tower later in the afternoon with a guide. That tower climb really was one of my favorite things in the city.
Lyon’s lucky owl
Musee de Beaux Arts
Climbing Phillip the Good Tower
What a view!
History, Food, Wine, Oh My
Next we went cathedral hopping – Dijon is a small village with an astonishing number of cathedrals. The Notre Dame Cathedral and its famous (somewhat hidden) owl sculpture, has become a symbol of this city.
We loved the Rue des Forges and the beautiful half timbered houses, many currently being lovingly restored and preserved. We made our way to the world famous Edmond Fallot Mustard shop. Fallot is the only remaining family-owned and -operated mustard factory in the Dijon region. I have been buying this brand of mustard every time I’m in France for the past twenty years. So delicious. I stocked up for gifts and for myself.
Half Timbered Houses
Dijon is a village of cathedrals
Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne
Since many businesses and restaurants are closed on Monday in France, we asked our local friends for a dinner suggestion. They said Parapluie (translation: umbrella). We made a reservation not knowing anything about this restaurant, and ended up being absolutely charmed by the chef’s choice menu, incredible wine selection, outstanding service and the unexpectedly reasonable price. I highly recommend.
Parapluie
Parapluie
We woke up early on our departure day and walked over the the Halles de Dijon. It had been closed on Monday so we wanted to see it briefly Tuesday morning before we left. One of the best food halles in France. Such a variety of local delicacies for sale. Next time I will spend an entire day there.
Les Halles de Dijon
The freshest
I could easily have spent another three or four days in this lovely, walkable, delicious medieval city. I hope to be back.
Luxembourg
Traveling in France by Rail
Our train to Luxembourg left about a half an hour late, which apparently is unusual when traveling in France by rail. But we eventually got on our way and luckily this time, no issues with our ticket! However, please note if you are traveling on the France-only Eurail pass, you need a separate ticket for the last leg from the final stop in France into Luxembourg. We did not change trains, but we did need two separate tickets (nobody checked, but we did not want to risk it!).
Hubs is tired of dragging the bags…
Dijon to Luxembourg 3 hours
The tiny country of Luxembourg gave us our 148th country, and what a lovely place it was. The only constitutional duchy in the world, it is often referred to as the Grand Duchy. A constitutional duchy is a territory ruled by a duke or duchess, but where the ruler’s powers are limited by a constitution. The duchy itself is the territory or domain, while the ruler’s title is the dukedom.
Palace of the Duchy
Luxembourg City is much larger than Dijon and we took a cab from the train station to our hotel (Hotel Vauban). I loved the location of our hotel right on Place Guillaume II, and perfectly situated in the old center. We were happy to be here for two nights.
Luxembourg City
Get Your Walking Shoes
Luxembourg City and the lower village of Gund are all quite walkable. But if you don’t want to go up and down the hills, take advantage of the FREE public transportation (tram and bus). We however enjoyed walking everywhere as we usually do.
Inside the Bock Casemates
That is one deep well
There is a lot to enjoy in Luxembourg so we dropped our bags at the hotel and headed out to explore. We took our time leisurely walking through the beautiful medieval old town, before arriving at the Bock Casemates – a must-see when in Luxembourg. The Bock Casemates, a subterranean defense system made up of kilometers of tunnels, is today one of the most important visitor sites in Luxembourg. These underground galleries were initially carved in the 17th century, under Spanish rule, and subsequently twice extended.
Like a Fairy Tale
Next we did a lovely walk down in the lower village known as Gund, stopping for a cold drink at the Good Weather Bar, only open in good weather! From the outdoor bar and on our walk we enjoyed picturesque views along the Alzette River. It truly looks like something out of a fairy tale. We made our way to the city’s oldest brewery, now a restaurant, called Big Beer and had a giant and delicious early dinner. Luxembourg has it’s own cuisine that leans a bit more German than French but also all it’s own. The pork knuckle was as big as my head. We continued our Gund walk to the Panoramic Elevator of the Pfaffenthal. A free elevator that takes people back up to the upper city with great views too.
Good Weather Bar
Panoramic Elevator of the Pfaffenthal
We were lucky with such great weather
Giant Pork Knuckle at Big Beer
Day Two
We woke up and looked out the window of our room to find a weekly market set up on the square in front of the hotel. So we started our day walking through and admiring all the fresh items for sale. Next we walked over the Pont Adolphe bridge and back over the La Passerelle bridge, in an effort see all angles of the beautiful city, before meeting our free walking tour.
A variety of old and modern bridges keep Luxembourg moving
Free Walkingt Tour
We do free (tip based) walking tours in many cities, and this two-plus hour tour was really exceptional. We visited the palace, the old fish market, Saint Michael’s Cathedral, Notre Dame Cathedral, the Monument of Remembrance and walked along the stunning ancient Chemin de la Corniche. You could easily visit all these on your own, but having a local guide to explain the history, give restaurant tips and insider information is always worth it.
Notre Dame Luxembourg
The Monument of Remembrance
After the tour we were starving so we headed to one of the city’s best restaurants for local cuisine, Brasserie du Cercle. I wanted to try the local dumpling dish called Kniddelen and Arne had a potato pancake with pork called Gromperekichelcher. Both were great. It was a hot day and the local Luxembourg beer was a perfect match.
Kniddelen
Gromperekichelcher.
After an afternoon of shopping for gifts and treats we had a rest at the hotel before dinner at Um Dierfgen. We were still full from lunch but we enjoyed a light dinner including the local seasonal specialty of white asparagus.
Luxembourg’s famous Chocolate House Nathanal Bonn
White Asparagus in season
It was a whirlwind tour of this beautiful place and I am so glad we made the time to visit Luxembourg City. But now it’s time to head to Paris.
Charming Luxembourg City
Paris
Of course we have visited Paris before (a few times) but we always look forward to seeing this beautiful city of lights. So back on board we go!
Bonjour Paris! Ravi de vous voir!
Luxembourg City to Paris Three Hours
Arriving in Paris at Gare de Est we decided to take an Uber rather than wrangle our bags on the Metro. But we used the Paris Metro the rest of our time and it is such a great metro system.
Since we have been to Paris many times, we decided to not do all the major attractions, except we really wanted to see the newly reopened Notre Dame.
The beautiful Marais neighborhood
Parisians enjoying a sunny May Day bank holiday
Our hotel, (the Hotel Le Compostelle), was in the Marais neighborhood, and we spent our first afternoon wandering and enjoying the sites and sounds and smells of the Marais. We were there on a holiday (May Day) and all the Parisians were out enjoying the fine spring weather. We then met our good friends who live in Paris at a restaurant called Acme and it was incredible! One of the best meals we have ever had in Paris. Multi course, chef’s choice dinner with an amazing wine pairing. We ate, sipped and talked well into the night, sitting outside on a warm night. Parfaite!
Innovative haute cuisine at Acme
Good food and friends
Day Two
Next morning we were up early (thank you coffee) because we had a reserved time to enter Notre Dame. I highly recommend getting a reserved time if you will be in Paris during the busy season. You can go on the Notre Dame website at 12:01 am two days before you want to visit and reserve a time. You can also wait in line, but the line can sometimes be hours long, so we recommend reserving a time. I loved seeing the new Notre Dame, it has been so lovingly restored and it is stunning. Don’t miss it.
French Coffee. Nothing better.
Notre Dame
Newly restored and beautiful Notre Dame
We spent the rest of this day wandering and enjoying our favorite sites including Jardin de Luxembourg, and views of Tour Eiffel. I wanted to visit two iconic Paris shops for souvenirs – Marin Montagut and La Grand Epicerie de Paris. We also visited Rue Montorgueil, a new-to-us area of Paris with so many restaurants. Here we had a perfect Nicoise Salad and wine for lunch at Les Artizans. Back to the hotel for a rest and then out to an amazing dinner at Grand Coeur. Wow the beef tenderloin for two was incredible. Highly recommend.
Jardin de Luxembourg
La Grand Epicerie de Paris
Rue Montorgueil,
Lunch at Les Artizans
Grand Coeur Beef Tenderloin. Wow.
Day Three
The forecast said possible late afternoon thunderstorms but the day dawned bright and blue. We took the train outside of the city to the stunning and new-to-us Parc de Sceaux – a hidden gem just outside of Paris. Here we met a group of women from a Facebook walking group I am in, and spent the next two hours talking to them (most expats from United Kingdom) and exploring this stunning park. Such a joy.
Parc de Sceaux.
Parc de Sceaux.
Back into the city to meet our friend again to explore the Carnavalet Museum, one Paris museum we had never visited. I heard great things about this museum, and we only had two hours which was not enough. We really enjoyed the historic presentation and will check it out again on our next visit.
Carnavalet Museum
Carnavalet Museum
Expect the Unexpected
Just as we were getting ready to leave the museum, we witnessed one of the most astonishing weather events of my life. In a matter of minutes the weather changed from blue sky and sun to black clouds, fierce wind and golf ball size hail. It hailed so hard and so much the hail piled up on the street like snow. Luckily we were not caught outside because people were injured and many cars and outdoor venues were damaged. Trees were down. It was wild and crazy.
Hail as big as golf balls. OMG.
Not only was it our final night in Paris, but it was our final night of this four month, seven country journey. We were tired and ready to head home. But we enjoyed one last Paris meal at Au Bourguignon du Marais This famous restaurant is a bit touristy, but it was close to our hotel and we had a good meal and also enjoyed visiting the two oldest houses in Paris just down the street. The medieval half timbered houses on the Rue Francois Miron are the only ones remaining in Paris, built in the 15th century.
Au Bourguignon du Marais
Rue Francois Miron timbered houses still in use
Traveling in France by Rail
Five cities in nine days using the France Rail SNCF… was a fun experience. Easy and efficient the train also provides a relaxing trip, with WIFi and the most amazing views. I would definitely do it again, but with smaller suitcases. You should consider traveling in France by Rail.
Traveling in France by Rail
We had a very early Uber ride to Charles de Gaulle for our flight back to the USA and our summer home in Washington State. Merci France. We loved our five plus weeks enjoying your culture, food, wine and history. Au Revoir. Abientot!
Parc de Sceaux.
Thank you for reading my post All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail. Be sure to see our post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux and last week’s post What’s Next for My Fab Fifites Life. Over the next few weeks I will continue to have Wednesday book reviews, but will take a wee break from writing travel content. I promise to return soon.
We love it when you pin, share, comment and engage with our blog posts. Merci!
Jamie Ford’s first novel The Hotel at the Corner of Bitter and Sweet was a wildly successful novel. Based on the Japanese experience during WWII and set in Seattle. This novel I am reviewing today, is also based in Seattle. It conjures so many memories for me growing up in the Pacific Northwest. Here is my Book Review Love and Other Consolation Prizes by Jamie Ford.
Jamie Ford
Wait. What? I went to Ford’s bio when writing this book review. And I learned he actually grew up in the town I currently reside – Port Orchard Washington. I was totally taken off-guard;
“Jamie Ford was born on July 9, 1968, in Eureka, California, but grew up in Ashland, Oregon, and Port Orchard and Seattle, Washington. His father, a Seattle native, is of Chinese ancestry, while Ford’s mother is of European descent.”
Okay, interesting little tidbit that makes this book even more personal. If you liked The Hotel At the Corner of Bitter and Sweet, I am sure you will enjoy Ford’s book Love and Other Consolation Prizes.
Worlds Fair
Love and Other Consolation Prizes explores the Asian experience in Seattle, beginning with the Great Alaska Yukon Exposition of 1909. The Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition (AYPE), was held in Seattle from June 1 to October 16, 1909. It followed on the heels of the 1905 Lewis and Clark Exposition in Portland, Oregon.
It’s here we meet young Ernest. He has already had a treacherous journey to the United States, lucky to still be alive. Taken under the wing of an evangelical women, Ernest is placed in a christian school. Then without his knowledge he is used as a “prize” in a raffle. Promoted as “a healthy boy to a good home” at the AYPE. The winning raffle ticket goes to a local well-known “madam” of a high class Seattle brothel.
Love
Ernest is very happy with his new position as a houseboy at the brothel. He feels at home for the first time in his life. He befriends the Madams daughter Maisie and “working girl” Fahn and finds himself in love with both girls.
Consolation Prizes
In 1962 the Seattle World’s Fair is opening and Ernest is now an old man. He lives in a tiny apartment alone. His wife lives with his daughter who cares for her ailing mother with dementia. Ernest carries secrets from his childhood he has never shared with anyon. Secrets that bubble to the surface with the opening of the worlds fair.
When his journalist daughter begins to ask questions for a news story, Ernest is thrown back in time. Confliced by memories of a remarkable life, a remarkable love, and a consolation prize unimaginable. Ernest must face his personal Love and Other Consolation Prizes.
Love and Other Consolation Prizes
This is an easy read full of emotion that looks at the Asian immigrant experience in the Seattle area. I enjoyed this book very much and should be a read by anyone growing up in Seattle.
*****Five stars for Love and Other Consolation Prizes by Jamie Ford.
I always get this question as we wind down any long adventure like the one we have been on. Four months and seven countries, we have really had one of our favorite travel experiences. But, it’s back to the USA now, so let me tell you what’s next for My Fab Fifties Life.
Silver Falls, Mount Rainier National Park Washington State
Home to Washington State
Home Sweet Home. I love our tiny house we call Villa de Verano and I am looking forward to working in my yard. We have a couple small projects around the house this summer…in our never ending effort to upgrade this thirty-five year old home. I am especially excited to see my kids and delve into helping with wedding plans for the upcoming fall nuptials. It will be great to be home – we love summer in the Pacific Northwest.
Home
Ten Days in British Columbia
If our Canadian friends will still allow us entry, we are headed to British Columbia for a road trip. We made these plans many months ago and well, things have gotten a bit crazy since. But it is our intention to visit Canada in July, our first time back in that beautiful country since before Covid.
Spring in my yard, Washington State
Cross Country to Upstate New York
In late September we plan to drive cross country to the destination of our sons wedding. Along the way we hope to visit friends in Michigan and Illinois and do some fall leaf-peeping in Vermont and New Hampshire before the wedding. Possibly a quick visit to Maine before returning to the Pacific Northwest by late October.
New Hampshire (Canva)
Viking River Cruise on the Rhine
Jumping on the river cruise bandwagon, we will do our first river cruise the week after Thankgiving. We are not huge cruise fans (although we have had some good ones and will likely cruise again) but a river cruise is new to us. Many of our friends have enjoyed this activity so we will give it a try. Our seven day cruise starts in Basel Switzerland and goes up the Rhine to Nuremberg, with a Christmas Market focus.
European Christmas Market (Canva)
And that will wrap 2025
We will finish the year at home for the holidays with our family. Departing January 1st we begin our next adventure. 2026 includes Cuba, Mexico, Jamaica or Panama as well as more of Europe and Scandinavia. This is all still developing so more on all of this later.
In the meantime, I have one more France blog post next week, then I plan to take a little break from posting for a few weeks. Time to enjoy my family, my friends and my home. Summer in the PNW is one of my favorite things in the world. Thanks for reading my post What’s Next for My Fab Fifties Life. Come back next week to read about our week of train travel in France. See last week’s post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux. Merci!
Surprising. A unique plot that brings the reader intimately into the lives of eight people, and the decisions each make that defines the measure of life. Here is my book review The Measure by Nikki Erlick.
An Ordinary Morning
It’s an ordinary morning like any other. Or is it? Around the world, whether you live in a high rise apartment, a slum dwelling, or a sailboat, each person on earth wakes to the same thing. A box. Some people will open the box. Some people never will. But inside the box is a piece of string…the measure of ones life.
Worldwide
Governments and scientists analyze the strings while society goes into a confused and frightened state of awareness. What can it mean? Do you want to know? Do you really want to know how long you will live? What would you do differently if you knew the answer to this question?
The Measure
Erlick’s debut novel looks at how society as a whole, and individuals, deal with a lifeline knowledge. The novel explores families, couples, politics and friendship and how these relationships change when you possess a knowledge never imagined before.
I enjoyed this story despite it’s lack of reality. What it brings is a magical essence to how people view their lives and the value each person puts on relationships and our individual existence. Both sad and uplifting The Measure is a perfect read for the times we are living in.
Bordeaux. It’s the wine and a whole lot more. During our month-long visit to Bordeaux we rented a car for one week, giving us easy access to some of the beautiful villages outside the city. Even if you visit Bordeaux for only a few days, try to get outside the city. Here are my suggestions for My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France.
Chateau Monbazillac outside of Bergerac
Take a Tour
You do not need a car to get outside of the city. There are many tour options, and the train also goes to many locations. If you are short on time, I recommend a day trip with Olala Tours. We joined a tour with Olala early in our visit to Bordeaux that took us to Saint Emilion and to the Margaux Medoc region. This was a great introduction to the nuances of Bordeaux regional wines. We loved the tiny medieval village of Saint Emilion so we chose to go back there later with the car.
In Margaux Medoc region on our Olala tour
Wine tasting in the Margaux Medoc region
My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France
We had the car for a week and we made five trips outside of the city during that time. We had beautiful weather on four of those days. Here are my recommendations;
Saint Emilion
Drive – It is about an hour drive to Saint Emilion, longer depending on traffic. We did not have any problem finding parking at 10am, but the lot was full after lunch.
Train – the train takes less time, but drops you about a mile from town. A walk or bike ride on to Saint Emilion is required.
Bordeaux to Saint Emilion
Saint Emilion
Saint Emilion
What to do – Saint Emilion is one of the most famous wine regions in the world, with more than 800 wineries in the small appellation -you can’t possibly visit them all. Bordeaux’s famous red wines are made from a blend of grape varieties, with Merlot being the dominant variety, and also including Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines are known for their rich, full-bodied and complex character, with good aging potential.
Beautiful history and art
Be sure to book AHEAD for the guided tour of the Monolithic underground church
Start your visit walking around the beautiful village for amazing views and shopping and coffee or lunch. Book in advance to take a tour of the amazing Monolithic church, only accessible by tour. No photos inside, but take my word for it – it is definitely worth it. If you don’t have a car, enjoy a tasting at one of the many wine shops in the village.
With a car you must wander out into the miles and miles of vineyards and experience wine tasting with the wine masters of the Saint Emilion appellation. We visited three wineries and I recommend each one for a completely different experience; Chateau Chauvin (we visited with a tour), and on our own Haut Rocher and Chateau Saint Georges. Booking ahead is recommended.
Haut Rocher in the same family for 800 years
Saint Georges beautiful Chateau and gardens and massive storage facility
Lunch in the vineyard at Chateau Chavin with Olala Tours
There are many tours available from Bordeaux to Saint Emilion. This is an absolute not to miss day trip from Bordeaux on your own or with a tour.
Saint Emilion’s oldest timbered house and original stone gate
Arcachon and Dune du Pilat
Drive – Arcachon is less than an hour by car west to the Atlantic ocean. Plenty of parking available.
Train – The train from Bordeaux will drop you in the center of Arcachon, but to visit Dune du Pilat you need a car or tour.
Bordeaux to Arcachon
What to do – We started our visit at the Les Halle des Arcachon to indulge in Arcachon’s world famous oysters. Oysters and seafood are two of the main attractions to the region. If you love them as we do you must visit. We also did a self guided walk along the beach promenade, and hiked up the hill to admire the 19th century mansions and the view back down to the town. If you are interested there are boat tours out to the small outer islands. We did not do this.
The Dune du Pilat is an amazing not to be missed sand dune about 40 minutes to the south of Arcachon. I was blown away by the size of this natural phenomenon that juts up from the sea, Europe’s tallest dune. Learn more about it here. It’s a fun hike, accessible by stairs if you don’t want to crawl up, and the view is worth it. I highly recommend visiting Dune du Pilat if you can. So fascinating.
Some people take off their shoes and walk up
I took the stairs. Slowly.
The view from the top. Amazing.
Bergerac
Drive – a bit further afield is the beautiful medieval village of Bergerac. It took us an hour and half to arrive in Bergerac. We easily found paid parking
Train – the train takes about the same time as driving and it is an easy 1km walk from the station into the historic center.
Bordeaux to Bergerac
What to do – Bergerac is in the Perigord region, outside of the Bordeaux region. We visited on a Monday, when many things are closed, but we found some shops and restaurants open for visitors. We did a self guided tour of the village, famous for the ancient timbered buildings, many currently being carefully restored and protected. I really enjoyed the beautiful river walk, and views across the Dordogne river. We sat outside at a tiny cafe (such a French thing to do) and had great food, wine and service.
Visit Bergerac for the ancient timbered buildings most still in use today
Feels like the French town in Beauty and the Beast
Delicious lunch on a sunny afternoon
Perfect day for a walk on the river
After lunch we drove about twenty minutes outside town to Chateau Monbazillac An ancient Chateau built in the 16th century with fascinating story you can learn on a self-guided immersive tour. The tour includes a glass of wine (this area is known for sweet whites) in their tasting room. It’s worth it for the views and gardens too. So peaceful.
Chateau Monbazillac
Chateau Monbazillac
Although it is farther, I recommend visiting Bergerac. The history was incredible. You could combine Bergerac and Saint Emilion but it would be a very long day.
Cape Ferret
Drive – headed west again Cape Ferret is a beautiful oyster producing region about an hour and twenty minutes drive from Bordeaux.
Train – really not an option
Bordeaux to Cap Ferret
What to do – we were blessed with excellent weather (actually hot) and our Cape Ferret goal was to hike. We started at the end of the road (La Pointe du Cap Ferret) where there was a small parking lot and restroom. We did a loop walk along the ocean hiking through both wooded area and ocean beach for a total of five miles. The Cap Ferret lighthouse (‘phare’ in French) is a beacon in the distance, but was not really our destination although it is open for visitors. We sat on the beach just east of the lighthouse, ate the picnic we had brought from home, and watched many brave souls enjoy a brisk ocean swim. There are many small oyster restaurants as well as places to buy fresh oysters to take home. From this side of the bay you can look back across to Dune du Pilat (see above).
Sandy Beach at Cap Ferret
Oysters are big business at Cap Ferret
We were blessed with a beautiful day
Crossing the estuary at low tide
It would be possible to combine Cap Ferret with Arcachon if you had a car and were open to a very full day.
La Reole
Drive – We drove in a rain storm about an hour and twenty minutes. Part of the drive is on highway and part is through pretty little ancient villages and vineyards
Train – the train is faster, about 45 minutes, but drops you a few hundred meters outside of the village
Bordeaux to La Reole
What to do – unfortunately the day we went to La Reole we got caught in a total monsoon. Our goal was to visit the Saturday morning market (8am-1pm), touted as one of the best markets in all of France. We did visit, but in a deluge. There is a big parking lot just west of the market, which is located along the Dordogne river. We made our purchases from a butcher, poulet producer, and fruits and vegetables vendor. Across from the market there is a public elevator that takes you up to the medieval village. We managed to only see a little bit of this ancient town though, as it really was not possible in the storm. What we did see was beautiful though and you should give it a try.
Lots of shoppers despite the wet weather
Looking from the upper town down to the market and river
Cathedral in La Reole
All roads lead to Santiago
You could combine Le Reole with a Saint Emilion day or a visit to Cadillac.
And There is More
We did visit Margaux Medoc with the tour we took, but I wished we could have had another day exploring the wine region of Medoc because it is more than just Margaux. I also had hoped to visit Blaye and Cadillac…those will need to wait for our next visit.
Beautiful gardens at Chateau Saint Georges
There are many destinations within easy access from Bordeaux if you wanted to do an overnight trip. We did not, but I would definitely consider this on our next long visit to the region. Toulouse is about two and half hours by car. Cognac is about two hours by car. Spain’s Basque region is less than three hours by car. Everything about this region is historic, delicious and beautiful. I want to live here.
Baby grapes on the vine in April
Southwest France
Southwest France and the Bordeaux region are not as well known as some of France’s other destinations, and that of course makes it more desirable for me. Less expensive, less crowded but still interesting, delicious and fun. I learned more about wine during our visit to Bordeaux than I had in all my life. Everyday was fascinating. It’s time to consider the Nouvelle Acquitane region of France for your next travel adventure. J’ai adoré. A bientôt Bordeaux. Merci!
Vineyard at Chateau Monbazillac
Please note -. Road Construction and train services change frequently. Please do your research for the most current information.
In today’s difficult algorithm regime, we greatly appreciate your comments, shares and pins to help our travel blog reach a wider audience. Thank you in advance.
Part history lesson, part love story and part mystery, Next Year in Havana will keep you engaged. I learned some great history in this story, that will help me ironically when I visit Havana next year. Here is my book review Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton.
Revolution
Cleeton herself is a descendant of those who fled Cuba during the revolution, much like her characters in Next Year in Havana. She writes with great insight how difficult the decision was for families who fled Castro’s Cuba in the early 1960’s.
The story is told in alternating timelines. 1958 Cuba we meet Cuban heiress Elisa Perez. Born to wealth and power she is young and naive about politics and revolution. Until Elisa meets and falls in love with a revolutionary. Their love affair will change the projection of Elisa’s life.
Miami 2017, we meet Marisol Ferrera. Following her beloved grandmother’s death, Marisol is challenged by her grandmother posthumously, to bring her remains to Cuba to be scattered. No one in Marisol’s family has returned to Cuba since they fled. How can Marisol manage this final request of her beloved grandmother Elisa.
Sixty Years
Despite Fidel’s recent death, Marisol arrives in Havana to find a vastly different Cuba than the one her grandmother left sixty years before. She is welcomed by her grandmother’s childhood friend who gives her a box of memories and letters Elisa had left behind. Marisol will begin a dangerous scavenger hunt after reading the letters, to learn answers to secrets of Elisa’s life she took to the grave.
Book Review Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton
Though somewhat predictable in the story line and plot, I enjoyed reading this novel. This is one of many books with similar themes by Cleeton. I was intrigued by the family saga and both present and past examples of life as a Cuban woman. I can’t wait for my visit to Cuba next year and I hope to read more about it in the months ahead.
****Four stars for Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton
This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish.AcceptRejectRead More
Privacy & Cookies Policy
Privacy Overview
This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.
Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.