Laureen, Author at My Fab Fifties Life

Europe Travel

My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France

May 2, 2025

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Bordeaux. It’s the wine and a whole lot more. During our month-long visit to Bordeaux we rented a car for one week, giving us easy access to some of the beautiful villages outside the city. Even if you visit Bordeaux for only a few days, try to get outside the city. Here are my suggestions for My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France.

Take a Tour

You do not need a car to get outside of the city. There are many tour options, and the train also goes to many locations. If you are short on time, I recommend a day trip with Olala Tours. We joined a tour with Olala early in our visit to Bordeaux that took us to Saint Emilion and to the Margaux Medoc region. This was a great introduction to the nuances of Bordeaux regional wines. We loved the tiny medieval village of Saint Emilion so we chose to go back there later with the car.

In Margaux Medoc region on our Olala tour

Wine tasting in the Margaux Medoc region

My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France

We had the car for a week and we made five trips outside of the city during that time. We had beautiful weather on four of those days. Here are my recommendations;

Saint Emilion

Drive – It is about an hour drive to Saint Emilion, longer depending on traffic. We did not have any problem finding parking at 10am, but the lot was full after lunch.

Train – the train takes less time, but drops you about a mile from town. A walk or bike ride on to Saint Emilion is required.

What to do – Saint Emilion is one of the most famous wine regions in the world, with more than 800 wineries in the small appellation -you can’t possibly visit them all. Bordeaux’s famous red wines are made from a blend of grape varieties, with Merlot being the dominant variety, and also including Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines are known for their rich, full-bodied and complex character, with good aging potential.

Be sure to book AHEAD for the guided tour of the Monolithic underground church

Start your visit walking around the beautiful village for amazing views and shopping and coffee or lunch. Book in advance to take a tour of the amazing Monolithic church, only accessible by tour. No photos inside, but take my word for it – it is definitely worth it. If you don’t have a car, enjoy a tasting at one of the many wine shops in the village.

Tastings

With a car you must wander out into the miles and miles of vineyards and experience wine tasting with the wine masters of the Saint Emilion appellation. We visited three wineries and I recommend each one for a completely different experience; Chateau Chauvin (we visited with a tour), and on our own Haut Rocher and Chateau Saint Georges. Booking ahead is recommended.

Haut Rocher in the same family for 800 years

Saint Georges beautiful Chateau and gardens and massive storage facility

Lunch in the vineyard at Chateau Chavin with Olala Tours

There are many tours available from Bordeaux to Saint Emilion. This is an absolute not to miss day trip from Bordeaux on your own or with a tour.

Saint Emilion’s oldest timbered house and original stone gate

Arcachon and Dune du Pilat

Drive – Arcachon is less than an hour by car west to the Atlantic ocean. Plenty of parking available.

Train – The train from Bordeaux will drop you in the center of Arcachon, but to visit Dune du Pilat you need a car or tour.

What to do – We started our visit at the Les Halle des Arcachon to indulge in Arcachon’s world famous oysters. Oysters and seafood are two of the main attractions to the region. If you love them as we do you must visit. We also did a self guided walk along the beach promenade, and hiked up the hill to admire the 19th century mansions and the view back down to the town. If you are interested there are boat tours out to the small outer islands. We did not do this.

The Dune du Pilat is an amazing not to be missed sand dune about 40 minutes to the south of Arcachon. I was blown away by the size of this natural phenomenon that juts up from the sea, Europe’s tallest dune. Learn more about it here. It’s a fun hike, accessible by stairs if you don’t want to crawl up, and the view is worth it. I highly recommend visiting Dune du Pilat if you can. So fascinating.

Some people take off their shoes and walk up

Bergerac

Drive – a bit further afield is the beautiful medieval village of Bergerac. It took us an hour and half to arrive in Bergerac. We easily found paid parking

Train – the train takes about the same time as driving and it is an easy 1km walk from the station into the historic center.

What to do – Bergerac is in the Perigord region, outside of the Bordeaux region. We visited on a Monday, when many things are closed, but we found some shops and restaurants open for visitors. We did a self guided tour of the village, famous for the ancient timbered buildings, many currently being carefully restored and protected. I really enjoyed the beautiful river walk, and views across the Dordogne river. We sat outside at a tiny cafe (such a French thing to do) and had great food, wine and service.

Visit Bergerac for the ancient timbered buildings most still in use today

Feels like the French town in Beauty and the Beast

After lunch we drove about twenty minutes outside town to Chateau Monbazillac An ancient Chateau built in the 16th century with fascinating story you can learn on a self-guided immersive tour. The tour includes a glass of wine (this area is known for sweet whites) in their tasting room. It’s worth it for the views and gardens too. So peaceful.

Although it is farther, I recommend visiting Bergerac. The history was incredible. You could combine Bergerac and Saint Emilion but it would be a very long day.

Cape Ferret

Drive – headed west again Cape Ferret is a beautiful oyster producing region about an hour and twenty minutes drive from Bordeaux.

Train – really not an option

What to do – we were blessed with excellent weather (actually hot) and our Cape Ferret goal was to hike. We started at the end of the road (La Pointe du Cap Ferret) where there was a small parking lot and restroom. We did a loop walk along the ocean hiking through both wooded area and ocean beach for a total of five miles. The Cap Ferret lighthouse (‘phare’ in French) is a beacon in the distance, but was not really our destination although it is open for visitors. We sat on the beach just east of the lighthouse, ate the picnic we had brought from home, and watched many brave souls enjoy a brisk ocean swim. There are many small oyster restaurants as well as places to buy fresh oysters to take home. From this side of the bay you can look back across to Dune du Pilat (see above).

It would be possible to combine Cap Ferret with Arcachon if you had a car and were open to a very full day.

La Reole

Drive – We drove in a rain storm about an hour and twenty minutes. Part of the drive is on highway and part is through pretty little ancient villages and vineyards

Train – the train is faster, about 45 minutes, but drops you a few hundred meters outside of the village

What to do – unfortunately the day we went to La Reole we got caught in a total monsoon. Our goal was to visit the Saturday morning market (8am-1pm), touted as one of the best markets in all of France. We did visit, but in a deluge. There is a big parking lot just west of the market, which is located along the Dordogne river. We made our purchases from a butcher, poulet producer, and fruits and vegetables vendor. Across from the market there is a public elevator that takes you up to the medieval village. We managed to only see a little bit of this ancient town though, as it really was not possible in the storm. What we did see was beautiful though and you should give it a try.

Lots of shoppers despite the wet weather

Looking from the upper town down to the market and river

You could combine Le Reole with a Saint Emilion day or a visit to Cadillac.

And There is More

We did visit Margaux Medoc with the tour we took, but I wished we could have had another day exploring the wine region of Medoc because it is more than just Margaux. I also had hoped to visit Blaye and Cadillac…those will need to wait for our next visit.

Beautiful gardens at Chateau Saint Georges

There are many destinations within easy access from Bordeaux if you wanted to do an overnight trip. We did not, but I would definitely consider this on our next long visit to the region. Toulouse is about two and half hours by car. Cognac is about two hours by car. Spain’s Basque region is less than three hours by car. Everything about this region is historic, delicious and beautiful. I want to live here.

Southwest France

Southwest France and the Bordeaux region are not as well known as some of France’s other destinations, and that of course makes it more desirable for me. Less expensive, less crowded but still interesting, delicious and fun. I learned more about wine during our visit to Bordeaux than I had in all my life. Everyday was fascinating. It’s time to consider the Nouvelle Acquitane region of France for your next travel adventure. J’ai adoré. A bientôt Bordeaux. Merci!

Please note -. Road Construction and train services change frequently. Please do your research for the most current information.

Thank you for reading my post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France. See last week’s post Discover Bordeaux France and Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City here.

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton

April 30, 2025

Laureen

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Part history lesson, part love story and part mystery, Next Year in Havana will keep you engaged. I learned some great history in this story, that will help me ironically when I visit Havana next year. Here is my book review Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton.

Revolution

Cleeton herself is a descendant of those who fled Cuba during the revolution, much like her characters in Next Year in Havana. She writes with great insight how difficult the decision was for families who fled Castro’s Cuba in the early 1960’s.

The story is told in alternating timelines. 1958 Cuba we meet Cuban heiress Elisa Perez. Born to wealth and power she is young and naive about politics and revolution. Until Elisa meets and falls in love with a revolutionary. Their love affair will change the projection of Elisa’s life.

Miami 2017, we meet Marisol Ferrera. Following her beloved grandmother’s death, Marisol is challenged by her grandmother posthumously, to bring her remains to Cuba to be scattered. No one in Marisol’s family has returned to Cuba since they fled. How can Marisol manage this final request of her beloved grandmother Elisa.

Sixty Years

Despite Fidel’s recent death, Marisol arrives in Havana to find a vastly different Cuba than the one her grandmother left sixty years before. She is welcomed by her grandmother’s childhood friend who gives her a box of memories and letters Elisa had left behind. Marisol will begin a dangerous scavenger hunt after reading the letters, to learn answers to secrets of Elisa’s life she took to the grave.

Book Review Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton

Though somewhat predictable in the story line and plot, I enjoyed reading this novel. This is one of many books with similar themes by Cleeton. I was intrigued by the family saga and both present and past examples of life as a Cuban woman. I can’t wait for my visit to Cuba next year and I hope to read more about it in the months ahead.

****Four stars for Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton

Thank you for reading my book review Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton. See last week’s book review The Frozen River by Ariel Lawhon.

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Europe Travel

Discover Bordeaux France

It’s More Than Just Wine

April 25, 2025

Laureen

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Although I was able to visit Bordeaux for a long leisurely stay, you can really enjoy this city with only a few days. Bordeaux has a surprising food scene (read last week’s blog post Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City), as well as culture, arts, nature and history. It is still relatively under the radar as far as destinations in France, and I fell completely in love with it. Come with me to Discover Bordeaux France.

From the Cite du Vin viewing the Pont Jacques Chaban Delmas Bridge through my wine

Walkable

One of the best things about this incredible city is how walkable it is. There is a tram, inexpensive and convenient, but during our month long stay we walked and walked. Our Airbnb was exactly one mile to the iconic Saint Andre and the start of the old city. Bordeaux’s historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is full of marvelous limestone architecture dating back through the centuries.

Cailhau Gate entrance to Old Town Bordeaux

Though Neanderthal findings of the region date back 20,000 years, the city itself was founded in the 12th century. The region has a remarkable history under French and English rule. Read about it here.

When visiting any new city, I always advise you do a walking tour – especially if you have a short amount of time. A walking tour will orient you, give you great historic insight as well as recommendations on how to spend your time. We loved our tour with Free Bordeaux Walking Tours.

Looking at historic Bordeaux from across the Garonne

We also loved our Food and Wine Tour with Bordeaux Bites. I highly recommend this tour for getting an overview of the foods of Bordeaux and France. Our guide Alex was a wealth of information and we loved all the tasty treats and wine we had on our tour. Read my post from last week all about the foods of the city; Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

Alex from Bordeaux Bites was an amazing guide

The River

The Garonne is the focus of Bordeaux both today and historically. The river is where wine was transported for centuries, and still today the port is active for river cruises, tour boats and pleasure boats. Because Bordeaux is situated just 100km from the sea, the Garonne River has a surprising tidal change, and due to that tidal change, and the clay river floor, the water appears to be brown. This is not pollution, and locals like to refer to it as caramel.

Pont de Pierre built in 1860 was the first bridge to cross the Garonne River at Bordeaux

We enjoyed an afternoon boat ride with Yacht Bordeaux which we booked through Get Your Guide. It was informative and beautiful. From the water it’s a expansive view back to the city, and our guide who spoke both in French and English delighted us with tidbits of the city.

We enjoyed learning about the history and the river on our boat tour

Be sure to spend some time along the Garonne promenade area, a literal highway for cyclists and pedestrians. Walk and enjoy seeing the river-cruise boats in port, the historic view of the UNESCO Old City, or dine at one of the many restaurants near the Cite du Vin. It’s a lovely and popular place with both visitors and locals.

Miroir d’eau is one of the beautiful attractions along the Garonne promenade

Wine (duh)

Bordeaux lives and breathes wine. It is what truly defines both the city and the region. Bordeaux wine production began sometime after 43 AD, during the Roman occupation of Gaul, when the Romans established vineyards to cultivate wine for the soldiers. However, it is only in 71 AD that Pliny the Elder recorded the first real evidence of vineyards in Bordeaux. Wines of Bordeaux are the second oldest in France, with Provence taking the lead.

Although white wine is certainly available, Bordeaux IS red wine. The reds are medium- to full-bodied with bold aromas of black currant, plums and an earthiness like smelling wet soil or pencil lead. Depending on the quality, vintage and what region within Bordeaux the wine is from, fruit flavors range from more tart fruit to sweeter ripe fruit.

When Thomas Jefferson was in France (before he was President) his love of Bordeaux wines helped bring attention to the region and its fine wine.

Enjoying a glass of wine from on top the Cite du Vin

New to Wine? Pas de Soucis (do not worry)

In next week’s blog post I’ll talk about visiting vineyards and villages outside of the city, possible with a tour or on your own. For a one day tour I recommend Olala tours. Consider the full day tour of Saint Emilion and Medoc. But if you have limited time here are my wine suggestions;

It’s easy to learn about wine in Bordeaux. It’s what they do.

La Cite de Vin – visit Bordeaux’s wine museum, in a unique but somewhat controversial architectural building on the river Garonne. City of Wine is a bit expensive ($35 Euro) but if you want to learn about history of the region, wine and also enjoy some wine, be sure and add this to your visit.

Learning about the different aromas of wine

Wine Shops – Bordeaux is home to dozens of wine shops, many also serving as tasting rooms. Everywhere we visited the staff was helpful, unpretentious and spoke English. Our favorite was L’Indentant. Even if you don’t plan to buy wine, you must visit L’Indentant to see the spiral wine staircase. Stunning.

Wine Bars – there are nearly as many wine bars in Bordeaux as Wine shops…sometime they are combined. If you just want to try a glass or two with some nibbles, a wine bar is a great option. The absolute best wine bar in Bordeaux is Bar a Vin. It is affordable, service is helpful and it is in a beautiful space.

Be sure to visit L’Intendant Grand Bordeaux

Wine Tasting – many, many options in the city for tasting, but if you want something really special sign up to visit La Pied a Terre. This humble shop near the Opera House is run by two enthusiastic and knowledgeable brothers. During the two-hour class we learned so much great information about local and world wines, tasted three wines and had a lot of fun. Highly recommend.

Cathedrals

Bordeaux is home to many beautiful cathedrals. As in most European cities, cathedrals are open to visitors all day, even during services. We are not Catholic, but we always make a point to step into any cathedral or basilica when traveling. And since Bordeaux is so walkable, we found ourselves in some beautiful churches. GPS My City has a Cathedral walking tour I recommend, as well as an architecture tour you should try.

Saint Andre was originally constructed in the eleventh century

Saint Michel Basilica was built in the 14th century

Arts and Culture

Bordeaux is home to the beautiful Grand Theatre de Opera with many performances. We make a point in many cities to visit the historic theaters when possible, and we did here. Our visit was for a modern dance performance which was excellent. We really enjoyed seeing the beautiful historic architecture of this building built in 1780.

Beautiful Bordeaux Opera House Grand Theater

If you have time, Bordeaux has many art museums, history museums and maritime museums. See the list here.

Nature

If you have enough time to take a day and get out into nature close to the city, we have two recommendations for you. On the right bank of the Garonne, a paved trail runs the entire way from Saint Jean bridge to Jacques Chaban-Delmas bridge, with beautiful trees, flowers and views back across the river to the historic old town. It’s a flat, easy and beautiful walk.

Many things to admire on a walk on the right side of the river

Even better, take the C tram to Parc des Expositions (the end of the line), then walk about a kilometer to Reserve Ecologique des Barails. We spent half a day here enjoying the beautiful spring blooms and bird watching. We had a picnic and nearly had the entire park to ourselves.

Loved the quiet Reserve Ecologique des Barails

Markets

Everyday somewhere in the city is a market. Near Saint Andre, the center of the old town, a market seems to happen everyday. We perused a book market, a vintage market and a fresh produce and cheese market.

On Thursday and Sunday along the Garonne promenade a really nice market brings fish mongers, meat vendors, produce and cheese vendors to the people. This is a popular place to eat oysters and drink wine with friends, especially on Sunday.

Marche de Capucins is the main market in Bordeaux, and it lies on the far south end of the old city, just past the beautiful Saint Michel Basilica. If you go, be sure to visit in the morning to see the local producers at work. It’s also a great place to grab lunch.

Bon Appetit

I’ll mention again my blog post from last week Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City – a few amazing suggestions. If you have time and want to delve deeper into the cuisine of the region, book a cooking class with Chef Daniel and Erica at The Gastronome Bordeaux. When I return to Bordeaux (and I will) I want to take their immersive class. You will learn a lot from David and Erica.

Discover Bordeaux France

Dare I say I liked it more than Paris? It’s less expensive, less crowded and unpretentious – all things we love. The food, wine, history, shopping and people are amazing. I am so glad to Discover Bordeaux France. I think I could live here. Get beautiful Bordeaux on your travel list soon – before others Discover Bordeaux France.

Come back next week for my post on Day Trips from Bordeaux France.

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review The Frozen River by Ariel Lawhon

April 23, 2025

Laureen

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I loved this book. Listened to it on Audible while we were traveling in Australia. It was well written and well narrated. Though a work of fiction, Lawhon has well researched the story of real life 18th century midwife Martha Ballard and woven a remarkable tale of mystery, family, love and perseverance. Here is my book review The Frozen River by Ariel Lawhon.

Maine

For most of us I think Martha Ballard contribution to midwifery has lived under the radar. Lawhon brings this amazing women to life in The Frozen Women. We are introduced to Martha in winter 1789. It’s a hard scrabble life for Maine’s residents during the long, cold winters. The frozen Kennebec that runs through the village of Hallowell Maine will be the center of this story.

Healer

Martha Ballard is a healer, midwife, and pursuer of justice. Over her decades of service she has become something of a legend in our village, called open for births, deaths, and tragedies of all kinds. On a cold winter night she is summoned when a man is found dead and frozen in the river. This death is on the heals of a recent brutal rape, allegedly by two of the towns most wealthy and important men. Now one of those men is dead.

Female

Martha is, of course, female. And the local male doctor believes he is more skilled at both determining the cause of death and saving mothers in childbirth. Martha’s talents and practices are questioned at every turn, by men of wealth and power including the powerful local judge.

Martha is undeterred, despite the worry her husband has for her safety. She pursues justice for the woman who was raped and safe health care for all the women of the village. All while dealing with her own family members and their various own pregnancies and medical needs. She is nothing but astonishing in her commitment to others during a time when women are expected to stay quiet and submissive.

Diary

In her real life Martha kept a daily diary of all the goings on in the village, every birth she attended. Every ailment and death as well as much of the activities and gossip of Hallowell. This diary becomes both a tool for writing about Martha centuries later, and a key piece of evidence against the corrupt judge.

Book Review The Frozen River by Ariel Lawhon

I loved this book, and I am sure I would have loved it just as much reading it as I did listening to it. It has a compelling story line, excellent character development, beautiful descriptive narrative and a fabulous female protagonist. Martha Ballard is an unsung hero worth knowing more about.

Thank you for reading my book review The Frozen River by Ariel Lawhon. Be sure to see last week’s book review Saving Ellen by Maura Casey.

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Europe Travel

Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City

April 18, 2025

Laureen

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Location: Bordeaux France

Bonjour Bordeaux! Spending an entire month in the underrated French city of Bordeaux has been such a lovely luxury. We have enjoyed beautiful spring weather, surprisingly low prices, kind and generous people and of course incredible food. Let me tell you all about Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

Bon Appitit

I have visited France numerous times, but this was my first visit to Bordeaux. It was recommended to us by Parisian friends as a great location for a long stay. And indeed it has been. Still flying under the radar, this ancient city on the Garonne River is undergoing a renaissance. Over the past twenty years Bordeaux has gone from dilapidated to divine. Cleaned up, yet still a bit gritty – Bordeaux is un-apologetically authentic. And the food is well…magnifique. Let’s talk about it.

Pain (Bread)

Eat the pain. Eat all the bread. Bread from a boulangerie in France is delicious and due to no preservatives, better for you. Unlike grocery store bread in the USA, bread in France needs to be purchased and consumed daily for freshness. It’s amazing how much better it is. Bread in France, like many local foods, is highly regulated by the government to ensure quality. To be called a “boulangerie”, a bakery must make its own bread fresh on-site, no pre-made dough allowed. A baguette must weigh 250-300 g, be 55-65 cm long, and any bread labeled “tradition française” must be produced following a very specific recipe. And as someone with a sensitive tummy, I notice no issues when eating in France.

A patisserie is a French bakery that sells pastries. In France and Belgium patisserie is also regulated and using the word is restricted to bakeries who employ licensed maître pâtissier (master pastry chefs).

So delicious, every bite. This is the tiny local boulangerite where we bought our bread.

Viande & Voaille (Meat & Poultry)

Beef, lamb, pork, duck! We ate it all and more. French cuisine features meat and poultry often, and we specifically visited several restaurants to enjoy these classics. I had steak tartare at a little hole in the wall called Petit Mignon (Arne had a giant hamburger) and we ate lamb, duck and fois gras at La Tupina. We also had grilled pork and steak frites for lunch at Brasserie de Chartrons. Bordeaux takes these classics seriously while also focusing on local specialties. All served with the most incredible Bordeaux wine.

It’s not for everyone but I love steak tartare

Grilled duck with fois gras at La Tupina. One of the best meals I have ever had.

Fall off the bone tender pork at Brasserie de Chartrons

Fruit de Mer (Seafood)

Though on a river, the city of Bordeaux is only 100km from the Atlantic ocean. This proximity makes seafood abundant, fresh and delicious. We love shellfish and had local oysters on several occasions as well as delicious moules (muscles). In addition we enjoyed squid, sea bass, tuna and octopus.

Fried shrimp and octopus at Les Halles des Bacalan

Canele (Bordeaux’s Favorite)

The name canelé comes from the French word for “fluted.” According to cookbooks, the canele Bordelaise could date back to anywhere between the 15th and 18th centuries, and most of the history books concur that the pastry originated in various convents around the winemaking regions of Bordeaux in Southern France.

On arrival in Bordeaux we immediately noticed shops selling these sweet little bites. There are a couple of chain stores that sell them, but luckily and unknowingly we popped into a small proprietor, considered Bordeaux’s best – Cassanade. Very delicious crunchy exterior with a creamy rum and vanilla baked center. Hard to describe but definitely easy to eat.

Nourriture Ethnique (Ethnic Choices)

Bordeaux is home to wide range of immigrants who have brought their cuisines to this international city. Lebanese, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, Italian and even Mexican which I find is rare in Europe. One we tried and loved was a delicious Peruvian restaurant called Blind. Blind had a prix-fixe dinner menu (very common) with Peruvian classics like ceviche presented with a French twist. Very good.

We also visited an amazing Cambodian restaurant just a few minutes walk from our apartment called Kampot. Lovely little spots like these are authentic and delicious. The proprietor was our host, waiter and cook! So very kind and the food was delicious!

Amazing coconut lemongrass soup at Kampot

If You Only Have a Few Days

I get it, most people don’t come to Bordeaux for an entire month. So I have a couple of recommendations if you only have a few days. Definitely plan ahead and make some bookings. Remember that the majority of restaurants are open from about noon to 2:30pm then close and don’t reopen until 7:00 or 7:30. Many restaurants (and shops too) are closed on Monday. There are some touristic places near the main squares that you might find open all day. But it is our recommendation to try to eat where the locals eat. And that means eating during the hours the locals eat. This is how we indulged in Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

Fresh in season white asparagus is very popular in the spring. Tender and delicious

Bordeaux Bites

Definitely find time to do a food and wine walking tour with Bordeaux Bites. If you can start your visit with this tour, you will come away with a great understanding of what makes the food scene of Bordeaux tick. I highly recommend it. Our guide Alex was amazing and he emailed me after the tour many restaurant suggestions. Merci Alex!

We learned so much about the nuances of French fromage

We tasted many meats and pates on our tour

The Gastronome Bordeaux

We loved our cooking/baking class with Chef Daniel and Erica at The Gastronome Bordeaux. This is where we learned the history and nuances of Bordeaux’s iconic sweet treat canele. I can highly recommend this class, but you might also consider their full cooking class with market tour or their duck class. Delicieuse!

Look what I made! So yummy. I need to try this at home.

Les Halles des Bacalan

This wonderful food hall, Les Halles des Bacalan, is such a delight…we ate there twice. Especially if you only have a few days in Bordeaux, this collection of gourmet delights under one roof is perfect. Popular with locals and visitors, you can walk around and choose what looks good and sample many different foods of the region. We had seafood, wine, charcuterie, and more. I highly recommend.

Wine Tasting

Of course I have to at least mention wine…we are in Bordeaux after all – where they produce over 700 million bottles of wine a year. Everywhere you go to eat there will be a wide variety of local wine offerings at amazing prices (compared to USA prices). Do not worry if you know little or nothing about wine. Ask just few questions, or ask the waiter to make a recommendation. Everyone we met was kind and helpful and very willing to introduce the local wines to novices. It’s surprisingly unpretentious.

Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City, included lots and lots of wine. Not just at every meal, but also at wine bars. A wine bar or a wine shop (most also serve as wine bars) is an exceptional way to be guided through the delicious local wines. We particularly liked Le Bar a Vin.

I’ll have more about wine in Bordeaux in our next two blog posts coming soon.

Marche des Capucins

Everyday somewhere in the city there seems to be markets; book market, vintage market, flea markets. And on Thursday and Sunday along the Garonne river there is a beautiful fresh produce and fish market. But Bordeaux’s main market is open every day – the Marche des Capucins. We enjoyed it for produce, cheese, meat and oysters. Even if you aren’t cooking yourself, you still should visit (in the morning is best) to see the colorful market at work. It’s also a great place to have fresh oysters and sandwiches.

Amazing assortment of pates, saucisson (sausage), and prepared foods

Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City

There is much more than food in this beautiful city. So I hope you will come back next week to read about my recommendations to Discover Bordeaux. I also hope you will get Bordeaux on your travel list, sooner rather than later. Come in the spring. Come in the fall. Even come in the winter. But please don’t come in the summer. You will love the city more completely without the crowds, tour buses and cruise ships.

I can’t get enough French coffee, here we shared a chocolate covered crepe and watched the world go by.

I definitely will be back – maybe even for more than a month. Merci Bordeaux. J’adore Bordeaux!

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review Saving Ellen by Maura Casey

April 16, 2025

Laureen

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The coming of age story is a frequent plot line in many novels. But this story is not fiction. Saving Ellen is a memoir of a large Irish family, growing up in the sixties and dealing with terminal illness. Here is my book review Saving Ellen by Maura Casey.

Buffalo New York

As adults, we all look back on our childhood from a vantage point unimagined while we were living it. Maura Casey takes advantage of her long career as a journalist and editorial writer for the New York Times to eloquently describe the tumultuous years of her own growing up, using humor and brutal honesty as she looks back.

A working-class Irish family in the 60’s and 70’s in Buffalo New York is not so hard to imagine for most of us. But the chaos this family lived through, due to terminal illness of one of their own, might be. And if you have struggled with caring for a family member who is chronically ill, you will identify closely with this family.

Sisters

Saving Ellen presents Maura’s memories of her childhood, and her close relationship with her older irrepressible sister Ellen. When Ellen is diagnosed with kidney disease, the entire family and their world will begin to revolve around “saving Ellen”.

Though Maura realizes the importance of focusing on Ellen’s illness and recovery, she finds herself with her own quiet youthful struggles and nowhere to turn. She internalizes things that are happening to her (including a sexual assault) in an effort to not cause the family more angst. She wants her beloved sister to get well, but also resents the mayhem Ellen’s health has created for the family.

Family

Maura’s father is a well known philanderer and drunk, while her mother is the champion for Ellen and the family. Focused and determined, Maura’s mother will risk her own long-term health to save Ellen by donating a kidney during a time when this procedure was dangerous and uncommon.

Tumultuous

In an already tumultuous time period in America, this family lives through a family crisis, held together by their love and determination for each other – and a smart, strong and determined mother. Tragic and uplifting, with moments of humor and gratitude – Saving Ellen is a beautiful story of family ties.

****Four stars for Saving Ellen by Maura Casey. Thank you for reading my book review Saving Ellen by Maura Casey. See last week’s book review Nightwatch by Jayne Ann Philips.

I received this book, Saving Ellen by Maura Casey, gratis from Books Forward.

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Birds of Beautiful Bhutan

April 11, 2025

Laureen

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Bhutan, a small landlocked kingdom nestled in the eastern Himalayas, is renowned for its rich biodiversity. The birds of beautiful Bhutan thrive here. The country is home to over 700 species of birds. Bhutan’s varied elevations and diverse habitats range from subtropical forests in the south to alpine meadows in the north. This remarkable variety is largely due to Bhutan’s unique geographical features and its commitment to conservation. This is how we came to enjoy the Birds of Beautiful Bhutan on our recent visit. Note most photos in this post are screen shot from Merlin Bird App. We highly recommend this app for amateur bird watching.

Respecting Nature

In Bhutan, the combination of pristine ecosystems, traditional agricultural practices, and a strong cultural ethos that respects nature has created an environment where numerous bird species thrive. On our ten day tour with My Bhutan, our guide Lhamo was well trained in bird guiding. She immediately recognized our desire to see as many birds as possible. She went out of her way and worked closely with us to make that happen.

Arne and Lhamo finding birds on one of our many hikes

Our Bhutan tour kept us primarily in the Northwest part of the country. During our visit we marked off 40 new-to-us birds, and enjoyed sightings of many others we have been acquainted with in the past.

Birds of Beautiful Bhutan

Among the most notable birds of beautiful Bhutan is the national bird, the Raven (Corvus corax). The black Raven holds great cultural significance in Bhutanese folklore and spirituality. The Raven symbolizes intelligence and adaptability, often seen soaring above the mountains and valleys. Additionally, Bhutan is a critical habitat for several globally threatened species, such as the Black-necked Crane (Grus nigricollis). These elegant birds migrate from Tibet to Bhutan each winter. During this migration they are celebrated in local festivals, highlighting the deep connection between the birds and the Bhutanese people.

Diversity

Bhutan’s varying elevations contribute to distinct ecological zones that support a wide array of bird life. In the southern foothills, rich subtropical forests can be found. This region is home to vibrant species like the Great Hornbill (Buceros bicornis) and the Indian Pitta (Pitta brachyura). Ascending into the temperate forests, here you find the majestic Himalayan Monal (Lophophorus impejanus). Elusive but captivating are various species of Thrushes and Warblers. Higher up in the alpine regions, the striking Snow Pigeon (Columba leuconota) and the magnificent Himalayan Snowcock (Tetraogallus himalayensis) can be spotted. These beauties showcase the incredible adaptability of birds to harsh mountain environments.

Finding the Birds of Beautiful Bhutan is a popular activity for both locals and tourists. Bhutan attracts ornithologists and nature enthusiasts from around the globe. The country has invested in eco-tourism. This focus provides opportunities for visitors to engage in guided birding tours led by knowledgeable local guides. Local tours not only facilitate bird watching but also promote awareness of conservation. Tours showcase the efforts of preserving Bhutan’s unique ecosystems. Bhutan continues to navigate the balance between development and environmental stewardship. The avian diversity remains a testament to the nation’s dedication to protecting its natural heritage.

More Birds to See

Will I ever have an opportunity to visit Bhutan again? I don’t know, but I would love to see the southern part of this remarkable country. There are many more birds to see. Perhaps I can be introduced to even more of this nations diverse wildlife, bird life and nature. What a remarkable country it is.

Thank you for reading my post Birds of Beautiful Bhutan. Please see last week’s post Bucket List Bhutan – Land of the Thunder Dragon here.

Be sure to come back next week as I begin a series on Bordeaux, France.

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