I have read A LOT of Kate Quinn books. I love her strong female characters who often are factual women from history. I loved The Huntress and The Rose Code and others. So I was excited for another story. Here is my book review The Briar Club by Kate Quinn.
Audible
I listened to this book on Audible, as I have some of Quinn’s other novels. Her books are always read by Saskia Maarleveld, who I think is excellent. But despite how much I have loved past books, this one fell short for me.
Quinn takes us the 1950’s, a women’s boarding house in Washington DC. A collection of interesting and diverse characters living in the house. When the story begins, we find the scene of a murder. Is it one of the women? But which one?
Whodunit?
The book then jumps to each of the diverse group of women and we learn their back stories;
Secretive Grace – who spearheads a weekly gathering for the women; proper English born Flis waiting for the return of her husband; Nora who loathes her family and get’s tangled up with a local gangster; baseball star Beatrice recovering from an injury and figuring out what is next for her; and Arlene who everybody hates because of her sugar coated exterior and venomous ways.
Who might have killed someone is the question throughout the book…and who is the victim? All will be told in the end, with lots of twists and turns throughout.
Definitely not my favorite Kate Quinn but a good read nonetheless. ***Three stars for The Briar Club by Kate Quinn.
Our first visit to Melbourne ( prounced mel·bn) was too darn short (you can read about it here Marvelous Melbourne Australia). And so we vowed to come back for a long stay. Given Melbourne, in the Southern Hemisphere, is sporting its summer finest when we Northerners need it most, it’s perfect destination. And as we hoped, we took our leisurely time to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia during a month long visit.
Melbourne on the Rocks
Favorite Cities in the World
Melbourne ranks for us as one of our favorite cities in the world. As you know we have been blessed with traveling the world, and our favorite cities include Paris (Pop. 2.1 million), New York City (Pop.9 million), Mexico City (Pop. 22 million), Vienna (Pop. 2 million) and Melbourne (Pop. 5 million). We have more favorites, but this is our top list. Melbourne ticks all the boxes. If I could live in any of these cities, I would chose Melbourne. You really need to visit.
Beautiful Melbourne – perfect climate, beautiful, historic and wonderful people
I realize most people would not stay a month in Melbourne. So as you plan your trip, take a look at all of our suggestions here, and pick and choose what you find of interest. There really is something for everyone. I am happy to answer any questions you might have.
How Ya Going
In Australia they say How Ya Going as a greeting and salutation. Well, when I am in Melbourne and the greater Victoria area, I am always going fine. The city is cosmopolitan with art, theater, museums, dining and recreation of all kinds. It is close to easy day trips with wonderful natural beauty. The people are down to earth, friendly and proud. Melbourne has it all. Let me tell you what I loved the most.
Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia
What’sOn Melbourne
As a frequent traveler and a former tourism marketing guru, I have so much appreciation for an all-encompassing website for activities and sites in any city. A local website that is up to date and accurate. And a big shout-out to What’sOn Melbourne, seriously the best all round, easy to use website I have ever discovered for a destination. Start your planning for a visit to Melbourne with this outstanding website.
Don’t miss a visit to the Block Arcade in the CBD
Favorite Things in the City
Our Airbnb was a little ways outside the city in a small neighborhood called Altona. Melbourne has a great train system, tram system and bus system. For your stay I recommend purchasing the Myki card for easy use. We also used Uber during our stay, and we had a car. Additionally for fun we took the…
Williamstown Ferry & The Yarra River
We met new friends thanks to Instagram and they took us into the city on a beautiful sunny day via the Williamstown ferry. The ferry goes back and forth between quaint little Williamstown right to the CBD. Its price of $35 Aussie ($27) and limited schedule makes it more of tourist boat than a commuter boat. If you have the time though, it’s great way to see the skyline and the river walk from the water. But if you don’t take a ferry or river boat cruise, enjoy the river walk to get a real feel for how important the Yarra River is to Melbourne. It’s an easy and interesting walk – learn more about it here.
On the Williamstown Ferry approaching the CBD through the Yarra River
So Many Museums
Like any big city Melbourne is home to many museums. More than we could see even during our long stay. We learned excellent history and nature information from the Melbourne Museum and loved our visit to the Melbourne Gaol. Another favorite, the Koorie Heritage Trust, was excellent for a small presentation of local Aboriginal art by modern artists. We spent couple of hours at the NGV (National Gallery Victoria) Australia enjoying its wide range of art. I would say we particularly enjoyed the Indigenous collection. These last two museums are free and are located in Federation Square, a local gathering place across the street from the historic Flinders Station. Both an integral part of the city.
Melbourne Gaol historic and interesting
Melbourne Museum
Koorie Heritage Trust
National Gallery of Art
National Gallery of Art
Royal Exhibition Building
The Royal Exhibition Building built in the late 1800’s is an iconic piece of Melbourne’s history. Though parts are under restoration, the old lady has seen much of Melbourne’s most important people and events through the generations. Today it serves as an event space and museum, and with advance tickets you can have a tour that includes the rooftop dome. I’m so glad we did that. One of the few things we did that was not free so get your tickets online.
Royal Exhibition Building Dome
Royal Exhibition Building interior
Melbourne Laneways
I know some cities have similar “alley” type spaces, but I have never seen anything so fun, festive and beautiful as the famous Melbourne Laneways. A result of Melbourne’s early grid layout, the laneways have become a thriving business area for locals and visitors. Many famous laneways, including Hosier Lane, Degraves Street, Hardware Lane, Meyers Place and Flinders Lane are known for their street art, cafes, shops, grafitti and bars. Through out the year festivals within the lane ways draw even bigger crowds. This is a perfect pedestrian area and one of my favorite parts of this beautiful city.
De Graves Lane
Meyers Place
Hosier Lane
Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia
We have only tapped the surface as we Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia. There is much more to see:
Royal Botanic Gardens
Throughout all our travel in Australia we have been astonished by the abundance of stunning and FREE Botanical Gardens everywhere we have gone. And Melbourne’s Royal Botanic Gardens is the best. You can spend a couple hours or an entire day. Qantas Airlines calls it the number one thing to see in the entire country. I wouldn’t go that far, but it is an absolute not-to-miss destination when you want to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia.
Lotus at Royal Botanic Gardens
Making friends at Royal Botanic Gardens
Markets
Melbourne is home to many markets, some seasonal. Our favorite is the South Melbourne Market for both shopping and dining. On both our visits to Melbourne we have grazed through the many restaurants located in the South Melbourne Market. It’s a great place to people watch. The other large market in Melbourne is the Queen Victoria Market. In the summer they have a night market on Wednesday nights and we really enjoyed that on this recent visit.
Queen Victoria Market
Night Market at Queen Victoria Market
Getting our produce at the South Melbourne Market
Grazing through the South Melbourne Market
Wow!
Australian Rules Football
With all the time we have spent in Australia we still had not experienced the spectacle that is Australian Rules Football. It is not American Football. Nor is it soccer. It is not rugby but similar. Here is what Wikipedia says;
The Melbourne Cricket Grounds is also home to AFL
We had a great time learning about this sport
Australian rules football, also called Australian football or Aussie rules,[2] or more simply football or footy, is a contact sport played between two teams of 18 players on an oval field, often a modified cricket ground. Points are scored by kicking the oval ball between the central goal posts (worth six points), or between a central and outer post (worth one point, otherwise known as a “behind”).
It’s impossible for me to list the thousands of festivals and events this city has. During our short visit we attended a Greek Festival, a Nepalese Festival, Moomba (one of Melbournes oldest festivals), and witnessed the annual Melbourne Grand Prix Formula One event. Just a few others include concerts, wine and food festival, history tours, live theater and many, many more. For the most up-to-date information you want to bookmark WhatsOn Melbourne.
Greek Festival
Moomba Festival Wakeboard Competition
Riding the historic Steamrail during the Moomba Festival
Just Outside the City
Saint Kilda
There are many neighborhoods just outside of the CBD that are worth a visit. Saint Kilda is a gorgeous beachfront town with a new pier that everyone should see. Stroll the esplanade and enjoy drinks and dining at one of the many delicious options, both waterfront and throughout the town. On weekends you really need a reservation. See our restaurant favs below. I highly recommend Saint Kilda.
Saint Kilda Pier
Historic Saint Kilda Amusement Park
People watching with a cool drink on a hot St. Kilda day
Williamstown
Williamstown, not as posh as Saint Kilda, is where we caught the ferry into the CBD (see above) and is a quiet, historic port town that is residential with a small downtown area. Great views of Melbourne from the Williamstown waterfront, also the location of the ferry to Tasmania and other destinations. We visited the Bathtub Gin Distillery on a recommendation from our friends and really loved it.
Historic Williamstown
Bathtub Gin in Williamstown
Altona
Altona, primarily a residential area and also very industrial, is home to our Airbnb . We had great access to Altona Beach and the beautiful Altona Walking Trails. The small town center near the waterfront has a handful of restaurants, grocery, post office and more. Short drive from our Airbnb to the train station.
The esplanade in Altona
The view from the Altona Homestead Park
Brighton Beach
A little further south of Saint Kilda is the iconic beach town of Brighton Beach. Renowned for its long sandy beaches, fabulous mansions and above all the historic and brightly colored Bathing Boxes. This is one of the main reasons Brighton is frequented by visitors to Melbourne. We enjoyed an afternoon on the beach and the water was so very warm.
Iconic Bathing Boxes in Brighton Beach
Brighton Beach
Day Trips or Further
Discover the Wonder of Melbourne and the surrounding Victoria area with day trips or an over night visit to many stunning areas. These are the ones we can highly recommend;
One Hour From Melbourne
Geelong
We visited Geelong on our way to The Great Ocean Road but it would also make a wonderful day trip from Melbourne. Geelong has a beautiful waterfront esplanade, a protected swimming area, historic carousel, and historic Victorian homes. But my favorite thing was the Baywalk Bollards, quirky and fun depictions of people and history, there are 100 bollards scattered along the waterfront.
Geelong Baywalk Bollards
Geelong
90 Minutes from Melbourne
Bendigo
We went to Bendigo to learn a bit about the important Gold Mine history of the Victoria region. We did that by visiting the Central Deborah Gold Mine and touring the underground mine. The gold rush boom town is home to beautiful Victorian architecture and a thriving arts district and CBD. We only spent part of the day here but I am really glad we did,
Central Deborah Golf Mine
Down Under, Down Under at the Central Deborah Gold Mine
Beautiful Bendigo
Yarra Valley
Depending on the traffic and on what part of the Yarra Valley you are headed, it will take around 90min or a bit more to arrive in this beautiful place. Northwest of Melbourne and home to the regions finest wines, with an emphasis on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We did a wine tasting at Punt Road Winery and Cider tasting at their sister Napoleon Cider. We enjoyed both as well as the lovely grounds and service.
Punt Road Winery
The cider featured Cosmic Crisp Apples, a Washington State developed apple.
After wine tasting we had an amazing meal at Meltetos (more below) one of dozens of first class dining establishments around the wine region. Highly recommend.
Meletos was such a beautiful site and delicious too
Two Hours from Melbourne
Portsea and Point Nepean National Park on the Mornington Peninsula
We took a day trip out the Mornington Peninsula with a stop in Portsea to walk “Millionaires Walk” on a cliff that fronts incredible mansions. Then on to Point Nepean National Park, a historic site of a Quarantine area for immigrants and a beautiful ocean view. The point is home to The Rip, considered one of the world’s most dangerous sea passages and the mouth to Port Philip Bay and eventually Melbourne.
Millionaires Walk in Portsea
Quarantine Station at Point Nepean National Park
Silos
Through out much of Victoria and also in South Australia there is a wonderful collection of painted silos, each with their own story. We visited three different silo sites on our day trip to Bendigo. I learned about the silos from my fellow travel blogger Sharyn (see her blog here about Victoria’s Silo Art). If you want to explore more about these amazing works of art learn more about out the Silo Art Trail here. You can visit several easily from Melbourne in a few hours or take more time to travel farther afield.
Victoria Silos
Silos tell a history story
Beautiful artistry
Three Hours from Melbourne
Wilson’s Promontory National Park
We actually combined Wilson’s Promontory National Park and Raymond Island (see below) into a two day overnight road trip. But both could be done as a day trip from Melbourne. Wilson’s Promontory is a very large park with stunning views and beaches. If you are a hiker I certainly recommend it.
Stark Lookout at Wilson’s Promontory
High above the ocean, Wilson’s Promontory
Enjoying the shade
Squeaky Beach, Wilson’s Promontory National Park
Four Hours from Melbourne
Raymond Island
Visiting Raymond Island was one of my favorite things in the greater Melbourne area. Closer to Melbourne you could visit Phillip Island instead, but there is no guarantee you will see koalas there. At Raymond it is nearly guaranteed you will see koalas in the wild. And that is what I wanted to see. So we made this an overnight trip, but you could do it as a very long day trip (3+ hour drive one-way) from Melbourne. A tiny ferry shuttles you across the narrow channel to the island. It’s an easy walk into the forest where we saw a dozen different koalas, new-to-us birds, and breathed the eucalyptus air during our three hour visit. This is a must do.
Fun to find this fella wide awake
Taking a nap on Raymond Island
The ferry to Raymond is free for walk ons. You do not need a car on the island.
Overnight Road Trip
The Great Ocean Road
Please read the blog I wrote The Great Ocean Road Melbourne Australia to see in-depth information about our two-day road trip from Melbourne to Peterborough and back. I highly recommend you see this road and try not do it in one day. Two days would be safer and more enjoyable. Take your time and discover.
So beautiful
The 12 Apostles
Hungry?
Melbourne is home to a wide array of fabulous restaurants with a taste and a price for everyone. Though, as we always do, we cooked at home a lot, with a wide variety of excellent grocery stores near by. But we also enjoyed MANY wonderful Melbourne restaurants during our 30 day visit. Click on the link and make reservations when you can. Here is list of some of our favorites:
Big Esso – Aboriginal – try the Green Ant Gin and Tonic
Mackerel at Big Esso
Pork Belly at Rice Paper Scissors
Rice Paper Scissors – Asian with a flare. One of the best meals we had in Melbourne.
Yarra Botanica – right on the river walk perfect for people watching although there is much better food in the city.
Lamb Kebabs at Beckka
Tempura Whitefish at Yarra Botanica
Bekka – Lebanese and delicious in the Melbourne neighborhood of Moonie Ponds
The Waiters is a must visit when in Melbourne. Definitely call for a reservation at this historic and popular place.
Right at Home
It was our sincerest pleasure to return to Australia for the third time and Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia. Through out this country we have met the kindest people, enjoyed a great exchange rate, learned fascinating history and marveled at the jaw dropping scenery and nature. It is a place unlike anywhere else in the world. And we feel right at home. It ticks all the boxes for us, and we can’t wait to visit again, hopefully in 2027.
I could live here
Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia
Until then, thank you once again Australia. Good on ya Mate. You have my heart.
Abundance of Wildlife is one of the best things when you come to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia
Please note, we will not have a travel blog post for the next few weeks as we now embark on our Bhutan Adventure. I hope to be posting regularly on Instagram while in Bhutan so follow along. Stay tuned for more about Bhutan in the week’s ahead.
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This book was introduced to me by Jackie Karnath with Books Forward. I have been lucky to receive several books in the past from Jackie, and this one might be my favorite. A beautifiul, touching, emotional story of what it means to be different. Here is my book review Boy with Wings by Mark Mustian.
Publish Date March 15, 2025
I held this review until publish week for this remarkable novel by Mark Mustian. Boy with Wings publishes March 15th. Mustian is known for his international best seller The Gendarme. After reading Boy with Wings I will definitely now read Mustian’s other work.
Freak
This is a story about an unlikely hero. Just a boy. A boy born with an abnormality to a single mother in the south in the early part of the 20th century. When anyone who was not white or “normal” was dehumanized, hunted, condemned and chastized. Johnny Cruel lives this life.
From birth Johnny is called a devil child, due to an unusual growth on his back that looks like wings. His mother tries to protect him best she can, even going so far as to fake his death before running away with him. But she dies and leaves little Johnny alone and frieghtened.
Mama Lo will try to help him and love him, but as a black women in the south she has little influence. Eventually Johnny will be sold to a freak show, where he will live for many years, amongst the other freaks and oddities. He will grow to manhood, find love, and lose it all.
Hiding
Johnny spends his life hiding his “wings”, trying to hold down a job, and always running from a strange one-armed man who won’t let him be. Is this man the father Johnny has never met?
Despite his own problems Johnny attempts to save a young black man who is about to be lynched. This will set in motion a series of incidents that will, eventually bring Johnny face to face with his real father…a powerful man who wants Johnny dead.
Captivating
I was glued to this book and could not put it down. I loved all the characters, especially Johnny. Mustian has a delicious writing style and I embraced every beautiful word. So many characters pass through Johnny’s life, each well developed and believable.
Book Review Boy With Wings by Mark Mustian
This is one of the best books I’ve read this year. Masterful storytelling with true emotion and fraility. A tale of human nature and the desire to be accepted and loved, and the hard truths of how difficult that can be.
*****Five stars for Boy with Wings by Mark Mustian. Definitely get your hands on this book.
Location: The Great Ocean Road, Victoria Australia
I am smitten with Australia. We are back for our third visit. This time we are spending the entire visit in the state of Victoria in and around Melbourne. Last year when we came to Melbourne (read about that visit here) we thought it was amazing, and did not have enough time to do and see everything we wanted. So we are back for a full-month. Next week I will share a blog post in depth about our favorite things around Melbourne. But today I am going to tell you what I loved most about The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia.
Where Are We?
Australia States
Victoria is the second smallest state in Australia. We have been lucky enough to visit all but one of Australia’s seven states. South Australia remains on the bucket list, and we will visit there next time. Victoria, although one of the smallest states, is home to Australia’s largest city of Melbourne. It is also home to the historic and famous Great Ocean Road.
The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia
Entering the official Great Ocean Road
History
The Great Ocean Road is an Australian National Heritage-listed 240-kilometre (150 mi) stretch of road along the south-eastern coast of Australia, between the Victorian towns of Torquay and Allansford. Built by returned soldiers between 1919 and 1932, and dedicated to soldiers killed during World War I, the road is the world’s largest war memorial. Winding through varying terrain along the coast, and providing access to several prominent landmarks, including the Twelve Apostles limestone stack formations, the road is an important tourist attraction. (Wikipedia)
Tourism
The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia is one of Australia’s top tourist destinations. Visitors each year total 2.8 million, most of those domestic and about 250,000 international. These numbers have taken a toll on the road and its sites. Currently roadwork and additional parking and facilities are underway near the famous and most visited, 12 Apostles site.
Walk way at 12 Apostles
We visited mid-week in summer and did not find it too crowded. In fact we had several sites all to ourselves. The park service has provided parking, walk ways, view points, signage and in a few cases, public restrooms for visitors
Our Route
Our two-day route did not cover the entire Great Ocean Road
We took two days to travel from Melbourne to just beyond Peterborough and back. There is more to The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia, but this is the section we visited. I would love to see more of this beautiful place on our next visit to Australia. Here are my recommendations;
Geelong
Technically not on the Great Ocean Road, Geelong is a beautiful port city about an hour’s drive from Melbourne. It’s easy to add Geelong to a Great Ocean Road tour, or make it a day-trip from Melboune.
We did a lovely stroll along the Waterfront esplanade enjoying the views. At the Eastern Beach we sat and had coffee on a stunning bluebird day. Scattered along The Waterfront are the Baywalk Bollards, colourful sculptures chronicling city history. We really loved this place and think it would be great for a night or two.
Baywalk Bollard Bathing Beauties
East Beach protected swimming area
I want to be a Baywalk Bollard when I grow up
Kennett River
A very easy river walk, the Kennett River Walk provides opportunity to spot many birds and, if you are lucky, koala. We had seen koala in reserves and conservation area during our past visits, but we had never seen one in “the wild”. So it was a treat to spot a large koala high up in the trees doing what koalas do…sleeping.
We also saw a Kookaburra and many other beautiful birds. The park has parking, a small store and picnic tables.
Yep that ball is a furry snoozing koala
Kookaburra
Let’s Take a Walk
Great Ocean Walk
The Great Ocean Walk is a one-way 110km walk that takes hikers through a wide range of historically significant and natural regions of this part of Victoria. But on this day we walked about 5k of it. The first half of the way, which we began from the parking lot of the Otway Light, was lots of scrub bushes. I was disappointed because I had been expecting expansive views. Well, wait a minute. We turned a corner and crested a small ridge to find ourselves high above the stunning ocean. What a treat. Should we come back and walk all 110km? This trail is part of the Great Otway National Park.
We found the view
Sandy trail through thick brush
Cape Otway Light
Worth the wait
Mait’s Rest Rainforest Walk
This little place, Mait’s Rest Rainforest Walk was a big surprise. A short boardwalk hike through some of Australia’s oldest surviving trees as well as a wide array of other beautiful flora. Additionally we saw lots of birds including one new to us little beauty – Australian Rufous Fantail – a real stunner. Mait’s Rest Rainforest is part of the Great Otway National Park.
300 year old trees (and an old guy too)
Mait’s Rest Rainforest
Screenshot from Merlin of an Australian Rufous Fantail
Clifton Beach Lodge
About 15 min before reaching Port Campbell and perfectly located to the Great Ocean Road National Park sights, is the darling Clifton Beach Lodge. Not on the beach, but rather in a peaceful farm setting, we loved our tiny one bedroom cabin and wished we could have stayed longer. Full kitchen and comfy bed in our unit but larger units are also available. We booked this on Booking.com . Our two person cabin was $120 USD.
Clifton Beach Lodge
Clifton Beach Lodge one bedroom unit
Port Campbell
The day was waning and the sun was getting low in the sky, so we made haste to Port Campbell where we had a delicious Aussie style Fish and Chip dinner with a view at 12 Rocks. We took a quick spin around this darling town, population 500, which offers multiple lodging options. The town seems to be having a bit of a renaissance. It’s cute and road upgrades are underway. There is a wonderful public beach.
We loved the food and atmosphere at 12 Rocks
Beer with a view after a long hot day
The Great Ocean Road National Park
Australia has a remarkable system of National Parks that are FREE. Well maintained and many with restrooms. It is such a treat to find these free parks for visitors and residents alike. We couldn’t wait to go check it out after dinner.
Razorback
This towering limestone stack known as Razorback is one of several amazing limestone formations at this site. We stopped here after dinner and the entire region was in a golden glow. Razorback is one of the largest stacks. Parking is good and short paved path takes you to a great view point.
Razorback in the foreground
The 12 Apostles
Definitely the regions most popular site due to the fact you can see about 30 limestone stacks from this vantage point. The Twelve Apostles are a collection of limestone stacks off the shore of Port Campbell National Park, by the Great Ocean Road in Victoria Australia. Their proximity to one another has made the site a popular tourist attraction. Despite their name, it is possible that there were never 12 rock stacks. Several stacks have collapsed in the last couple of decades and seven remain standing, all while other stacks will eventually be formed from rain, erosion and waves.
It is possible to walk on the beach at the 12 Apostles but only at low-tide. Access to the beach is from Gibson’s Steps.
Please note some websites say this park is open 9am-5pm. However that is the hours of the visitor center. The walkways, viewing areas and parking are open 24 hours, as are the other sites I mention in the post.
Sunset at the 12 Apostles
Golden Hour
I think this is my favorite photo I took – misty air, evening gold and pink sky. Love it.
Day Two
We were greeted by a lovely sunrise and then a crystal blue sky on day two of our adventure on The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia. We were sufficiently caffeinated and headed back to The 12 Apostles to see it in a different light. I am so glad we took the time to view this incredible natural area both dressed in sunset rose and daybreak blue. Significantly fewer people at 8am than at sunset, but both times offered plenty of room for everyone to enjoy the beauty.
Morning view of the 12 Apostles
London Bridge
Just beyond Port Campbell to the West you will come to the viewpoint for London Bridge. Originally a natural archway and tunnel, London Bridge collapsed on 15 January 1990 and became an isolated arch no longer connected to the mainland. It was one of my favorite spots on our tour.
London Bridge
On the viewing platform at London Bridge
That little guy is a Swamp Wallaby
The Grotto
Our next stop, just down the road, is a weathered hollow limestone formation known as the Grotto. I have seen photos of this place with 40 people…but we had it all to ourselves. It is one of the most evocative and intimate of the coastal formations of the Great Ocean Road. Part-blowhole, part-archway, part-cave, its serene rock pools and smooth boulders frame the sea views. Parking is good, but stairs are involved to access the Grotto.
The Grotto
We had it all to ourselves
Bay of Martyrs and Bay of Islands
Our next two stops provided more expansive views of limestone stacks and their ever changing beauty. Like sculptures in the sea, I’m sure each time you visit you see something new and beautiful.
Bay of Martyrs – that’s Arne way down there
Bay of Islands
Bay of Martyrs
Peterborough
We made a brief stop in the tiny town of Peterborough home to one of the most beautiful stretches of gold sand beach I have ever seen. Except for a couple of surfers, the beach was unpopulated and serene.
The town was believed to have been founded when the schooner SS Schomberg was wrecked in the middle of the 19th century, but Aboriginal people were here long before.
Peterborough is a 3 hour drive from Melbourne (with no stops) and we made this our turn around point for the day.
(Canva) Peterborough
Major Change in Scenery
As we turned north and eventually east, rural farms spotted with sheep, cows and horses replaced the crashing ocean waves. Though a different view, this scenery was bucolic with its rolling hills, brown from summer heat. It reminded me a lot of the Palouse in my home state of Washington.
Lake Cullen Merri and Lake Gnotuk
Thanks to one of my followers on Threads, we learned of this alternate route to take us high up on a hill near the town of Camperdown for this beautiful view and interesting history.
Lake Bullen Merri and its smaller northern neighbor Lake Gnotuk are a pair of crater lakes. Lake Bullen Merri has a maximum depth of 66 m (217 ft), with a clover leaf outline indicating that it was probably formed by two overlapping maar volcanoes. Historical records show that the lake water level has dropped significantly over the past 100 years. Today it is a popular recreation area. (Wikipedia)
Heading Home
After our full two days we headed back to our Airbnb just outside of the city of Melbourne, sated with the delicious wonder that is The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia. It would be easy to take an additional day or two and drive farther west along the coast, taking even more time to enjoy some of natures bounty.
So glad we came
The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia
Thank you for reading my post The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia. Please come back next week for more about this beautiful Victoria region and Melbourne. See you then!
What a great feel good novel. This is a story of being different. Being bullied because of it. And finding a way through it all to succeed and be happy. Here is my book review The Extraordinary Life of Sam Hell.
Sam Hill
Sam is a tiny child born with red pupils. Kids call him Devil Boy and Sam Hell. His affliction, known as ocular albinism is said by his mom to be “God’s will”, and with her faith and his father’s guidance Sam tries to persevere is solitary childhood.
Sam’s mother refuses to allow the local Catholic school to deny Sam admission. The nun says his “difference” would be a distraction. But Sam’s mother, a devout Catholic and supporter of the church goes to the local television station. Sam is admitted. But finds few friends.
Until another young boy arrives who is also different. Ernie Cantwell is the only African American in Sam’s class and the two boys are drawn to each through their loneliness and their differences. Ernie will go on to great success in sports and eventually Sam will succeed as an eye doctor.
Different
But Sam will be handed tragedy, one he can’t find a way through. He will turn his back on everything and everyone and travel to far off places to serve as an eye doctor to those in need. As he runs as far away from his pain, he encounters a young boy with ocular albinism. For the first time in decades, Sam removes his brown contact lenses and shares his own red “Devil Boy” eyes – giving the child hope.
Sam embraces his own differences, accepts what has defined his life, and finds his way home.
“There comes a day in every man’s life when he stops looking forward and starts looking back.”
*****Five stars for The Extraordinary Life of Sam Hell by Robert Dougoni
The Secret Life of Sunflowers by Dana Marton is a surprising historical novel about an amazing women. I learned a lot from this beautiful story of love and perserverance in 1800’s Paris and Amsterdam. Here is my book review The Secret Life of Sunflowers by Dana Marton.
Vincent Van Gogh
Much has been written of the life of Vincent van Gogh. But little has been shared of his brother Theodore, and even less of Theodore’s wife Johanna van Gogh. This is her story, her remarkable story.
Following the death of both Vincent and Theodore, Johanna is left alone with an infant child and no means to support herself. She also is left with more than 700 paintings by Vincent, which no one wants or recognizes his talent. Johanna will spend years diligently workihg to find someone, anyone, who will do a showing of the paintings. She finds her hidden calling in serving as the agent for these still to be discovered masterpieces, in a world where women did not play such a role. But her own survival depended on it.
The plot has a parallel story line – Los Angeles and New York present day. We meet Elmsley Wilson, owner of an auction house. When Elmsley’s famous grandmother passes away, Elmsley discovers a diary – the diary of Johanna Van Gogh. Elmsley’s journey discovering how her grandmother came into possession of the diary will bring Elmsley’s life new meaning, new friends, new direction, a new love and financial independence.
The novel, though based on a real historical person, is fiction. Marton however did extensive research and presents the facts carefully in the well written and engaging narrative of the story. I enjoyed both story lines, but particularly loved the Johanna storyline and her determination and drive. When she succeeds, you cheer for her out loud!
*****Five stars for The Secret Life of Sunflowers by Dana Marton.
Kia Orana! “Kia Orana” is a Cook Islands greeting that means “may you live long” or “may you have a long and fulfilling life”. It’s more than just a greeting, it’s a wish for a good future and a core part of Cook Islands culture. This is what you will find in this tiny island nation in the middle of the South Pacific. We came with no expectations, and went away blessed by the beauty and kindness that penetrates this island. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.
Beautiful Rarotonga
Why Rarotonga?
As we planned our travels for 2025 we knew we wanted to return to Australia – one of our favorite countries in the world. Visiting Australia during their summer, is perfect for leaving behind the dreary Northern hemisphere winters
Beautiful flora
Colorful flowers
So, it was a natural fit to spend some time in Hawaii, and then take the non-stop flight Hawaiian Air offers from Honolulu to Rarotonga every Saturday. Why not? We have the time, the flight is only five hours and though not cheap, it got us closer to Australia. Cook Islands here we come.
So much beauty
Color everywhere
A Few Details
The Cook Islands uses the New Zealand dollar. ATM machines are available all over and most businesses accept credit cards as well. As of this writing the NZ dollar is .57 cents per one US dollar. Very good rate for Americans.
Snorkeling is a very popular activity on Rarotonga
Our cell provider Verizon does not include The Cook Islands in their international plan. Once on the island one option is purchase the Vodaphone hotspot service for WiFi. Most hotels do not offer a separate WiFi service. We paid $35NZ for five days/50G, up to three devices. Another option is to get a Vodaphone SIM or Esim at the airport. We did the Vodaphone hotspot option, which worked pretty well as there are hotspots all around the island. However, during a big storm we had, the Wifi was unavailable.
Lots of sunshine and rain creates a lush island setting
You can rent cars; we did not, and scooter rentals are also popular. We just used the bus. Taxi service is also available but no Uber.
How to get here – Air New Zealand (via Auckland) is an option, but for Americans it’s much easier to fly to Honolulu and then take Hawaiian Air which has a weekly flight on Saturday and a return flight on Sunday evening. JetStar flies direct from Sydney.
We arrived on Hawaiian and departed on JetStar
No Expectations
As we do in much of our travel, we arrived Rarotonga with no expectations. We knew it was a small island but we knew little else. The island is volcanic, with an area of 67.39 km2 (26.02 sq mi), and is home to almost 75% of the country’s population, with 10,898 of a total population of 15,040. On our arrival we found spectacular beauty untainted by mass tourism; friendly, welcoming, and kind local people, tropical weather (both sun and rain), delicious food and a distinct faith-based culture and customs. As we read prior to arrival, the island felt much like Hawaii likely did 50-75 years ago. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.
Long white sandy beaches
What to Do?
Don’t come to Rarotonga if you expect to be wined and dined in fancy settings, or stay in large upscale American brand resorts or have world class shopping. It is not that kind of place. There are activities on the island if you are a diver or want to snorkel with turtles and rays and learn about the local sea life. Many whales come here in season. You will also find some hiking options, bird watching and cycling tours. There is a tiny bit of shopping, particularly if you are in the market for the local black pearl. We chose to do a whole lot of nothing, during our one week visit. We can however wholeheartedly recommend the following;
Coffee by the pool at the Palm Grove
Palm Grove Resort – we are so grateful we stumbled into the Palm Grove Resort. Perfect location with beach and pool. Beach-front and pool-front bungalows, as well as some larger options too. We loved our little bungalow poolside. We enjoyed the free snorkel gear and kayaks and dined on absolutely delicious meals and breakfast (included in the price) at the Yellow Hibiscus restaurant. But best of all was the kind staff and excellent service – always with a smile and a Kia Orana. For our poolside Bungalow we paid $165 USD per night.
Our Palm Grove Bungalow
Our bungalow perfect for two people, bigger options available
Cook Islands Bus – on time and comfortable. We used the Cook Islands bus several times during our visit. One bus goes clockwise the other counterclockwise. One price $5NZ no matter how far you are going – unless you buy a ticket packet of ten for $3.50NZ each.
Waiting at the bus stop on a stormy day
Fun Stuff
Hike to Waterfall and Needle – Te Rua Manga or the Needle is a rocky spire in the Rarotonga mountains. It rises to an elevation of 413 metres above sea level. The spire itself is a breccia structure. There is a walking track to the base of the spire. This hike is not for novice hikers, but will certainly give you a 360 degree view. There are guides who can take you. We saw new to us birds and wonderful flora.
Te Rua Manga
Wigmores Waterfall
Screenshot of Cook Island’s Fruit Dove
Screenshot Pacific Imperial- Pigeon
Titikaveka, Rarotonga – Voted as one of the top 25 beaches in the South Pacific by Trip Advisor, Titikaveka features bright turquoise blue water and white sandy beaches shaded by palm trees. We enjoyed the access to this beach from Palm Grove.
Titikaveka
Highland Paradise – at the recommendation of the staff at Palm Grove, we spent an evening with Highland Paradise. We really enjoyed the food and the beautiful grounds, but more than anything we enjoyed learning so much about the local culture, dance, history and people of the Cook Islands. I highly recommend it.
Dancers were so fun at Highland Paradise
Buffet at Highland Paradise
Local Outdoor Markets
Muri Beach Night Market -The Muri night markets in the Muri Beach Village are a great way to curate your own dinner from the various food trucks, stalls and stands all while mixing and mingling with tourists and locals alike. Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings from 5pm, the night markets offer a variety of food from local BBQ meals, seafood, fresh drinking coconuts, chicken curries, wok-fried noodles, pizza, desserts and more.
Muri Beach Night Food Market Three nights a week
Punanga Nui Market – The Punanga Nui Market in Avarua, Rarotonga’s main town, offers free entertainment, fresh food stalls, organic coffee, and authentic souvenirs like pearls, artwork, crafts and hats made of coconut frond. While the market is open until midday, early Saturday morning is the best time to go for locally grown fruits and vegetables as well as homemade treats like poke. Also, make sure to head over to the main stage from about 10am to enjoy live music and dancing.
Punanga Nui Market
Learn History
Te Ara Cook Islands Cultural Museum was a great activity on a rainy day. We really enjoyed learning some of the cultural history of the island both from before European’s arrived and everything since. I highly recommend spending an our or so here, and you can’t beat the $5NZ price. A nice little cafe too.
Te Ara Cook Island’s Cultural Museum
Te Ara Cook Island’s Cultural Museum
Where to Eat
Even though our darling bungalow at Palm Grove had a kitchen, and the Palm Grove is conveniently located near one of the larger grocery stores (Wigmores), we decided not to cook our dinners since we were on the island for only a week. Instead we found our way to several popular local eateries including;
The Yellow Hibiscus – Part of the Palm Grove Resort, we ate here three separate nights. On Sunday nights they offer their weekly BBQ for $45NZ. It was an outstanding value. The other dinners we had were delicious, with huge servings and good prices. Friday night is Happy Hour night.
Amazing Salad Buffet at the Sunday BBQ
Gigantic serving of fish and chips
Best Calamari I have ever had
Ahi or steak at the Sunday BBQ
The Tamarind House Restaurant and Ukelele Bar – we took the bus to Avarua just to see the town, which frankly doesn’t have a lot to offer, but we walked around, had a beer at Trader Jack’s, and then headed on to dinner at The Tamarind House. Absolutely beautiful view and we enjoyed our dinner of Ika Mata and Nicoise Salad with fresh Ahi.
Nicoise Salad at the Tamarind House
Beautiful view
Viama a short walk from Palm Grove we enjoyed a lovely dinner on Valentines Day here. With our toes in the sand we enjoyed fresh Ika Mata (also known as Poisson Cru), Fish, Steak and a great Sticky Toffee Pudding for Desert.
Sticky Toffee Pudding
Amazing local John Dory
Dinner with a view
Charlies Bar and Grill – we heard great things about this beach side bar and chose to have lunch here on our final day on the island. Lunch starts at noon, but if you come for dinner call ahead for a reservation. The view is great, portions are huge and the food delicious. Order at the window and they bring the food to you.
Thai Steak Salad at Charlie’s
Charlie’s live music all day
Charlie’s Bar and Grill view
Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands
Come to the Cook Islands to escape the winter weather back home. We met so many Canadians and Europeans in search of sun. Come to the Cook Islands to relax and find a peaceful paradise to read, relax, and swim with a few exhilarating possibilities thrown in. Come to the Cook Islands for amazing seafood, fresh produce and fruit – all served up with a smile. And come to the Cook Islands for Kia Orana – the blessing of the beautiful people and the fascinating culture they hold dear. For all of these reasons and more – come to the Cook Islands. We will be back.
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