This book. Wow. I listened to this book and it truly blew me away. This is my first read by Wally Lamb, and he is brilliant. I haven’t read a book in a REALLY long time that gave me such a visceral reaction. Let me explain. Here is my book review The River is Waiting by Wally Lamb.
Corbin and Emily
Author Lamb introduces us to Corbin (Corby) and Emily, two college students madly in love with each other. Then madly in love with their twins Niko and Maisie. Life is pretty damn good, until it isn’t.
Let me be honest with you. If you can get through the first chapter of this book, you will be rewarded with a rich, deep and heartbreaking personal story. My husband and I were in the car when we started The River is Waiting on Audible. It starts out innocuous enough, but then…
The moment my brain realized what was about to happen in the first chapter I began to hyperventilate. I squeaked OH NO and reached over and shut off the book. My heart was racing I was not able to continue.
Twenty-Four Hours
I could not stop thinking about this book for the next 24 hours. But I steeled myself to go back and try again. I decided it was better I listen to this book on my own, without anyone else around to witness my response. Good idea. This book gave me more of a physical reaction than anything I have read in years. I gasped, sobbed, wept. Found myself wide eyed and my hand covering my gaping mouth.
READ.THIS.BOOK
I will not give away too much, but I will say, the character development in this story is incredible. Bravo to Lamb for creating characters you love, root for, hate, fear and feel personally attached to. This novel covers basically a period of about 3 years, but also looks at much of the past of the main characters. Lamb brilliantly writes the evolution of these characters as they deal with their guilt, love, addiction, and most of all, the horrors of incarceration and the USA justice system. I’ve learned Lamb himself is a recovering addict and works with prisoners. All of that comes through so perfectly in his writing.
There is redemption, although it may not be what you are expecting in the end. Lamb keeps you hanging through the entire novel, as you hope and wish for a happy ending.
Book Review The River is Waiting by Wally Lamb
Lamb has created a hero for our time in Corbin Ledbetter. I can’t stop thinking about this book, or this character. A sure sign of an exceptional read. My favorite book so far this year – even though it was, at times – very painful to continue. Brilliant.
Thank you for reading my book review The River is Waiting by Wally Lamb. This one gets five stars Plus*****! See last week’s book review So Far Gone by Jess Walter.
I am always grateful when you comment, pin and share our book reviews. I thank you.
This book. Wow. I listened to this book and it truly blew me away. This is my first read by Wally Lamb, and he is brilliant. I haven’t read a book in a REALLY long time that gave me such a visceral reaction. Let me explain. Here is my book review The River is Waiting by Wally Lamb.
Corbin and Emily
Author Lamb introduces us to Corbin (Corby) and Emily, two college students madly in love with each other. Then madly in love with their twins Niko and Maisie. Life is pretty damn good, until it isn’t.
Let me be honest with you. If you can get through the first chapter of this book, you will be rewarded with a rich, deep and heartbreaking personal story. My husband and I were in the car when we started The River is Waiting on Audible. It starts out innocuous enough, but then…
The moment my brain realized what was about to happen in the first chapter I began to hyperventilate. I squeaked OH NO and reached over and shut off the book. My heart was racing I was not able to continue.
Twenty-Four Hours
I could not stop thinking about this book for the next 24 hours. But I steeled myself to go back and try again. I decided it was better I listen to this book on my own, without anyone else around to witness my response. Good idea. This book gave me more of a physical reaction than anything I have read in years. I gasped, sobbed, wept. Found myself wide eyed and my hand covering my gaping mouth.
READ.THIS.BOOK
I will not give away too much, but I will say, the character development in this story is incredible. Bravo to Lamb for creating characters you love, root for, hate, fear and feel personally attached to. This novel covers basically a period of about 3 years, but also looks at much of the past of the main characters. Lamb brilliantly writes the evolution of these characters as they deal with their guilt, love, addiction, and most of all, the horrors of incarceration and the USA justice system. I’ve learned Lamb himself is a recovering addict and works with prisoners. All of that comes through so perfectly in his writing.
There is redemption, although it may not be what you are expecting in the end. Lamb keeps you hanging through the entire novel, as you hope and wish for a happy ending.
Book Review The River is Waiting by Wally Lamb
Lamb has created a hero for our time in Corbin Ledbetter. I can’t stop thinking about this book, or this character. A sure sign of an exceptional read. My favorite book so far this year – even though it was, at times – very painful to continue. Brilliant.
Thank you for reading my book review The River is Waiting by Wally Lamb. This one gets five stars Plus*****! See last week’s book review So Far Gone by Jess Walter.
I am always grateful when you comment, pin and share our book reviews. I thank you.
When I was a child in the 1960’s I spent a lot of time on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. We hiked and camped throughout the peninsula and in the mountains and at the ocean too. My great-grandparents lived in Port Angeles, the official gateway to the Olympic National Park, and I have fond memories of their farm, about 15 minutes out of what then was a small city. At the time that farm seemed so big to me. I’ve driven by there a few times in recent years…it is small. So I have a history and thought it was time to go discovery the Hidden Gems of the PNW – Port Angeles & Olympic National Park
My sweet grandparents John and Clara
The old farm today
Glorious summer day in Port Angeles Washington along the Strait of Juan de Fuca
In the past few decades I have spent very little time in Port Angeles. We would ride our bikes on the Olympic Discovery Trail, (it too a hidden gem) but never actually stop in Port Angeles. So this summer, I had a great opportunity to spend a couple days getting reacquainted with “PA” while also enjoying time in the beautiful Olympic National Park. Here is my story.
Riding the Olympic Discovery Trail a few years ago just outside of Port Angeles
History of Port Angeles
Port Angeles, Washington, has a history rooted in its natural harbor and strategic location. The area was originally home to the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe. In 1791, Spanish explorer Francisco de Eliza named the harbor Puerto de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, later shortened to Port Angeles. The town later became a gateway to the Olympic National Park.
In 1862, President Abraham Lincoln designated land in Port Angeles as a potential location for the nation’s capital if Washington D.C. were to fall to the Confederacy.
The beautiful harbor at Port Angeles
Port Angeles Harbor is recognized as one of the largest natural deepwater harbors on the West Coast, with depths exceeding 90 feet, according to the USGS. The town is also known for Ediz Hook, a prominent 3-mile-long sand spit that extends into the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Port Angeles has served as a backdrop for several films, including “The Hunt for Red October” and “Wyatt Earp”.
History of the Olympic National Park
Olympic National Park, established in 1938, has a rich history rooted in the protection of its diverse ecosystems. Initially, the area was designated as the Olympic Forest Reserve in 1897 to protect the trees. Later, parts of the reserve were designated as Mount Olympus National Monument in 1909 to preserve the Roosevelt elk. Finally, in 1938, President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed a bill creating Olympic National Park.
The park’s history also includes the indigenous peoples who have lived on the Olympic Peninsula for thousands of years, as well as the arrival of European explorers and settlers. The park now protects a wide range of ecosystems, including temperate rainforests, alpine meadows, and rugged peaks, as well as a section of the Pacific coast.
But most visitors pass right through Port Angeles and continue on the loop through the Olympic Peninsula. That is a nice way to see all the sights, but you should also consider making PA your home base to explore the Hidden Gems of the PNW – Port Angeles & Olympic National Park.
Where to Stay
Of course Port Angeles has hotels, but I wanted something a little more down to earth, in keeping with my hiking itinerary. I was flying solo on this trip, so I chose to “glamp” in a teeny cabin about 15-20 minutes outside of the town. Best way to describe this cabin is camping with a bed. It was perfect.
My teeny and comfy cabin
Home Sweet Home
Room with a View
Tiny cabin with comfy bed, great linens, even a TV though I never turned it on. Roughing it with the cooking and cleaning, a Blackstone was provided and dishes, but bring your own cooler. Sparkling clean sani-can and a wash-up area complete with mirror and beauty products. I enjoyed the gas fire pit too and all of this in a stunning setting surrounded by towering mountains and lots of deer. Interested in this little hidden gem? Learn about it here.
Port Angeles Hidden Gems
Though small, Port Angeles has a remarkable downtown area with fun and unique shops. I asked around for some ideas from friends of mine, and they steered me to lots of great retail stores –
Swains
This store blew my mind. I can’t believe I have never stopped in here before. It’s no exaggeration to say, whatever you might be looking for, Swains has it. I could have spent hours here, and will definitely make sure my husband visits this store on our next trip to Port Angeles.
Swains General Store a Port Angeles institution
Whatever you need it’s here
Recreation to Garden to Housewares and even clothing and shoes
McPhee’s Grocery
As you begin the ascent out of Port Angeles towards the National Park, you will pass the tiny McPhee’s Parkway Grocery. In operation since 1937, McPhee’s is your last opportunity to pick up some snacks, fruit, beer or maybe an ice cream before you head out of PA.
Tiny but great service and product at McPhee’s
Port Book and News
Nothing makes my heart go pitter pat like a really good old fashioned book store with REAL books. I admit I read on my Kindle, because I can’t carry books around the world. But I love the feel of a book in my hands. Even the smell of the darling Port Book and News is nostalgic. Of course I bought a novel I have been wanting to read. You’ll see a book review about it soon.
Right on First Street you will find Port Book and News
Employee recommendations
Something for everyone
Country Aire Natural Foods Market
Port Angeles’ version of a Whole Foods but so much better because it is all local. Country Aire Natural Foods Market has a great little deli, espresso and wine shop as well as beautiful produce and dry goods. Right in the heart of downtown Port Angeles with parking in the back.
Don’t miss Country Aire
Beautiful fresh produce
Great selection of wine
Brocante Antiques and Collectibles
I think I get it from my Dad, who was the ultimate flea market and vintage store junkie. Proud to say I am as well. I was just strolling down First Street when I noticed Brocante. Wow. Another store you could spend all day in, looking for hidden gems amongst the various booths. I did not buy anything, but boy I came close to coming home with an antique cooler…regretting that a bit.
Brocante is a large store full of hidden gems in the heart of Port Angeles
Treasures galore
I was so tempted…
Moss
I loved this store, and it was full of visitors. Moss is the place to find a perfect authentic and high quality souvenir or gift. Moss has beautiful things from cards to cardigans, hats to candles to camping gear. A little bit of everything in this high quality and beautifully displayed store.
Lots of cool stuff
Perfect souvenir for your time in PA
Something for everyone
Field Arts and Events Hall
Be sure also to visit the Field Arts and Events Hall, right on the water next to the Black Ball Ferry Terminal. This gorgeous building opened two years ago and has brought diverse artists and performances to Port Angeles. An incredible undertaking for a small town and an impressive and beautiful addition to this community.
Field Arts & Events Hall
Field Arts & Events Hall is a private 501(c) 3 nonprofit organization. The construction of Field Hall was made possible through the generous donations of Port Angeles locals Donna M. Morris and Dorothy Field, along with corporate and individual donors who value a vibrant arts community on the northern Olympic Peninsula.
This facility is really changing arts and culture on the peninsula. Check out the events schedule and definitely visit the building.
Let’s Go Hiking
Entrance fees to Olympic National Park are $30 per vehicle. If you are over age 62, you definitely should have the America Golden Eagle pass, $80 one time fee gives you national park entrance for the rest of your life.
View from Storm King
Entering the park can be tricky in the summer when it’s busy. Go as early as possible, because once the parking lots are full, they usually will only let one car in as one car leaves. The early bird gets the worm. I’m always an early bird so it worked out great. Below is a list of the ONP places I visited –
Hurricane Ridge
When I was a little kid we would come here to go sledding, and this was also the first place I ever strapped on a pair of hand-me-down skis when I was only five. Today Hurricane is a destination for hikers from all over the world, and home to a lot of wildlife too. Unfortunately the historic WPA era lodge burned down a couple years ago, but there is a large parking lot and restrooms. Obstruction Point is also a jumping-off point for miles and miles of overnight hiking trails.
Looking across at Mount Olympus for Obstruction Point, Hurricane Ridge
Obstruction Point hike
Summer blooms on Hurricane Ridge
The Hoh Rainforest
I really wanted to visit here, because I can’t remember when the last time was. Today, visitors from all over the world make the Hoh Rainforest a destination for the beautiful Hall of Mosses and Spruce Trail and much more. Parking is limited. I found one of the last spots. Once parking is full the Ranger will hold the cars, only letting one in as one leaves.
Spruce Trail in the Hoh Rainforest
All about the moss in the Hall of Mosses Trail
Green is the color of the day
Sol Duc
There are several trails here but I only did the short, and accessible for most people, trail to Sol Duc Falls. Parking is also very limited here too. Many people park along the road. I was there on a Thursday in August and it was crowded. No services at this trailhead, but you will love this easy nature walk and beautiful falls.
Sol Duc Falls
Elwha River Trail
Not inside the park but in the National Forest, this trail meanders along the Elwha River, on a trail about 20 minutes from Port Angeles. The road into this trail washed out a few years ago. It used to continue up to the Olympic Hot Springs. Today you can drive to the washout and hike for miles along the old road. Today the hike is mostly on the old road but also on trails, with beautiful scenic options along the way. Hot Springs is a 20 mile round trip.
Back when cars could come here, there were services including gas
The Elwha River
Lake Crescent
There are three trails I love near Lake Crescent, offering hikers of all levels options –
Spruce Railroad
The Spruce Railroad Trail is super easy, mostly paved or flat gravel old railroad bed with lake access and beautiful views. Full distance roundtrip is about 9 miles, but easy to turn around anywhere.
Visitors enjoy the access and view to Lake Crescent
Marymere Falls
An easy walk from Lake Crescent Lodge to this beautiful falls, about two miles round trip. Involves some stairs but accessible to most abilities.
Marymere Falls
Mount Storm King
I love this one though it isn’t for everyone. Mount Storm King trail is short but steep and narrow and it ends with a rope option for the brave. I usually park it on the rock near the rope and just enjoy the view from there.
View from Storm King
Granny’s Cafe
Driving out 101 to the park entrances be sure to make a stop at Granny’s Cafe for their not-to-miss $3 giant soft serve ice cream cone. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, but the ice cream is what most people come back for again and again. Granny’s has been serving ONP visitors and the greater Port Angeles area since the 1950’s. It is the epitome of a Hidden Gems of the PNW – Port Angeles & Olympic National Park.
Giant ice cream for only $3 at Granny’s Cafe
Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Port Angeles & Olympic National Park
Olympic National Park encompasses 922,651 acres, or approximately 1,442 square miles. This vast area includes diverse ecosystems like glacier-capped mountains, a rugged Pacific coastline, and temperate rainforests. It’s the 13th largest national park in the United States. So you can’t possibly see it in one visit. If you can, try to come several times, in different seasons to enjoy the hidden treasures it holds. And spend at least one of your visits in the Washington Hidden Gem of Port Angeles. You will be glad you did.
A book for these times of conspiracy theories and extremest militia cults. Jess Walter gives us a book of family and redemption. Here is my Book Review So Far Gone by Jess Walter.
Jess Walter
This is the third book I have read by Walter who is based in my home state of Washington. The thing I like about Walter is how varied the three books have been; Beautiful Ruines is about Hollywood in Italy post war; The Cold Millions is about class uprising in working class Spokane early 20th century. And now, So Far Gone, based in modern times (2016 when Trump is elected) of dealing with modern politics and problems.
Rhys Kinnick
Walter’s introduces us to a well thought out character, retired journalist Kinnick. Seven years earlier Kinnick had left the mainstream to live off the grid. Kinnick’s decision came after his daughter’s conspiracy theory husband goes too far with politics talk on Thanksgiving, and Kinnick punches him.
Kinnick moves to a family cabin from his childhood where he lives as a recluse, not seeing his daughter or two grand kids. During this time politics in the United States is turbulent with Trump, changing media and journalism standards, and far right groups like the Church of the Blessed Fire, the militia Christian church Kinnick’s son-in-law is in.
Disappearance
When a woman shows up on his remote cabin porch with two kids, Rhys doesn’t even recognize his two grand kids. This is when he learns his daughter has vanished, and the kids are now in his care. But something is afoul, and Rhys must figure it out. He will need to enlist the help of people from his past, not all of who he has left on good terms.
Book Review So Far Gone by Jess Walter
So Far Gone is a book of redemption, for a crotchety old man, who drinks too much and has an anger problem. But he loves his daughter and his grand kids, and he will learn they are worth fighting for. Walter gives us multiple fine characters in this novel (and introduces their view in separate chapters) and a plot that has some humor as well as fear. Though fiction, it feels very believable in a crazy world we are currently living in.
Not my favorite of the three Walter novels I have read, but a solid and engaging story that is compelling and beautifully written.
This is part two of our BC Canada Road Trip. I recently shared Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia. Boy did we enjoy seeing some of beautiful Vancouver Island. After our five days on the island we headed across on the ferry from Comox to continue our trip along the beautiful Sunshine Coast. Here is my story Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia Canada.
On board the ferry to Powell River from Comox
Part Two
Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia
The ferry from Comox requires a reservation, which we made well in advance at a cost of $73 CAD / $53 USD. It was a gorgeous day and the ferry ride was very scenic (we saw whales breaching in the distance). On arrival in Powell River we made a brief stop to pick up groceries before heading north on Hwy 101 about 30 minutes to the tiny town of Lund.
Welcome to Lund
Lund British Columbia
In case you haven’t made the connection, my last name is Lund. My husband’s family is Scandinavian and there is town in Sweden called Lund. The tiny village of Lund British Columbia is named after the city in Sweden. Lund, by the way, means grove.
Where is Lund?
For the past forty years Arne and I have talked about visiting Lund British Columbia. Yes I said forty. Good grief…once again why don’t we visit beautiful British Columbia more often? So when we were planning our summer 2025 I insisted we finally visit Lund.
History of Lund BC
Lund, British Columbia, is a historic village with a rich past, initially established by Swedish immigrants, the Thulin brothers, in 1889. Before European settlement, the area served as a winter campground for the Coast Salish people. The Thulins developed Lund into a thriving port, building a store, post office, hotel, and wharf.
Small harbor at Lund
Hike the Lund Loop
Today, Lund is a picturesque seaside village known for its harbor and access to Desolation Sound. It’s often referred to as the “End of the Road” as it’s the northern terminus of Highway 101. This highway is part of one of the longest highway networks in the world, running along the coast from Canada to Chile.
Desolation Sound
In the summer of 1792, two expeditions led by Captains George Vancouver, and Dionisio Alcalá Galiano and Cayetano Valdés y Flores arrived and cooperated in mapping the sound. Vancouver named it Desolation Sound, cryptically claiming that “there was not a single prospect that was pleasing to the eye” (credit Desolation Sound Resort).
Many watercraft at Lund
Today Lund is the hop off point for wonderful water adventures in Desolation Sound. People come from all over the world to kayak, fish, sail, and hike the region. Lund has a population of 1250, and sits on the traditional and unceded territory of the Tla’amin, Klahoose, and Homalco First Nations. The native name of Lund is Klah ah men. This name, given by the Coast Salish people thousands of years ago, reflects the historical significance of the Lund Harbor as a safe and sheltered place where people could interact, hunt, gather food, and launch canoes along the Salish Sea. It was a vibrant cultural hub important for practical everyday life as well as for storytelling and sharing traditions.
Two Short Days in Lund
We did not have much time in Lund, but we did do a self guided tour of the beautiful harbor and had a late lunch of poutine and beer at the waterfront restaurant The Boardwalk, before checking in to our Airbnb.
The Boardwalk is a popular restaurant on the water in Lund. Definitely visit.
When in Canada – Poutine
We loved our cute and comfortable and sparkling clean Airbnb and decided it was a good evening to relax and have dinner at home.
Great little Airbnb with kitchen just outside of the town of Lund
Next morning we were up early for a full day of hiking on the Sunshine Coast Trial.
We met a lot of through hikers enjoying a multi-day trek. But for us our seven mile round trip (we headed north from Malaspina Road) gave us some beautiful views of the sound as well as forests and birds. I highly recommend finding some time to hike a portion of the Sunshine Coast Trail.
View of Okeover Inlet
The Laughing Oyster
After a shower and relax back at our cute little Airbnb we headed out to Lund’s highest rated restaurant The Laughing Oyster. Located outside of the tiny Lund marina area, and technically in Powell River, The Laughing Oyster not only has great food but it has a spectacular view of Desolation Sound. I’m glad we were able to get a reservation, because the food plus the view were a perfect ending to our brief, beautiful and long awaited visit to Lund British Columbia.
Cheers to Lund
Delicious Sablefish
Don’t miss The Laughing Oyster when in Lund
Southbound
For the first time in more than a week we turned our trusty Subaru towards the south for the drive to Halfmoon Bay. Another ferry ride was included from Saltery Bay (about an hours drive) to Earls Bay. There are no reservations on this run. After we disembarked and at the recommendation of my blogger friend from Retired and Traveling we made a stop to hike to Skookumchuck (skuh·kuhm·chuhk) Narrows.
Another ferry ride
Skookumchuck Narrows
Wow. Don’t miss this place. We would have if our friend Linda hadn’t suggested it. It’s an easy 2 mile hike from the parking area down to the narrows. At the parking you will also find restrooms, food and other services. Here is what the BC Parks Webpage has to say about this fabulous natural phenomenon;
Skookumchuck Narrows
” Skookumchuck Narrows Park provides trails and viewing areas for visitors who wish to experience the awesome power of incredibly turbulent tidal rapids. On a three metre tide, 200 billion gallons of water flow through the narrows connecting Sechelt and Jervis Inlet.
So glad we came here
The rushing water was astonishing
The difference in water levels between one side of the rapids and the other sometimes exceeds two metres in height. Current speeds can exceed 30 km per hour. The rapids are famous for their spectacular whirlpools and whitewater.” Learn more here.
Enjoy a cinnamon roll at the Skookumchuck Bakery after your hike.
A little midday treat
Halfmoon Bay
We arrived at our cute accommodations, the Loghouse at Halfmoon Bay, in the afternoon. This is a wonderful spot in a quiet little cove. Comfortable ground floor room with a small outdoor space, the hosts provide you make-your-own breakfast goodies including eggs, cereal, yogurt, coffee and more. I would definitely stay here again.
Loghouse at Halfmoon Bay
By this time on our road trip we were feeling a bit tired, but we took a walk to see the small beach, ogle at the beautiful homes and enjoy the pier, before jumping in the shower and getting ready for dinner.
The small beach near our lodge
Gorgeous pier and homes
The travel blogger friend I mentioned above lives in the town of Sechelt, about 15 minutes drive south on the Sunshine Coast. We enjoyed a glass of wine at their beautiful condo, before heading into Sechelt for dinner at a waterside restaurant.
Sechelt
Sechelt (see·shelt) is known for its relaxed seaside vibe, beautiful natural scenery, and outdoor recreation opportunities. It has a quiet downtown area, beautiful views of the passage and Desolation Sound. Sechelt is a great jumping off point for all the recreation on the Sunshine Coast.
Next time we will stay longer in this cute little town.
Final Days
After being on the move for nine days, we decided to enjoy a quiet final day in Halfmoon Bay. We loved our little outdoor space and made use of it through the day while reading and doing some work on the laptop.
Halfmoon Bay
We had a casual early dinner at the historic Halfmoon Bay General Store . Operating since 1937, they recently reopened after a complete rebuild. It will continue to be a gathering place for the community of Halfmoon Bay with its indoor and outdoor seating area. We enjoyed a fresh-made sandwich and some beer sitting in the sun on the deck. The store also has a small selection of groceries and gifts. After our dinner we headed down to the pier to watch the sun set into the Pacific Ocean.
Refreshing local cider
Dinner at Halfmoon General
Sunset on our final night
Heading Home
Day ten and we woke up really early to drive the 45 minutes to the Langdale ferry terminal. The ferry crosses Howe Sound to take us to Horseshoe Bay, about a half hour’s drive on into Vancouver. The ferry is free in this direction (surprisingly) but still requires a reservation in the summer. We had a reservation for the 7am boat but actually got on the 6:30am. It was a stunning boat ride as the sun was coming up with the route weaving in and out of the islands.
Gorgeous morning
Originally we had planned to finish this trip with a couple of days in Vancouver, but due to commitments back home we had to cancel that part of our trip. Vancouver is a favorite destination though, and I hope to get back to that beautiful city again soon.
Sunrise from the ferry
Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia
Our ten day British Columbia road trip with part one on Vancouver Island and part two on the Sunshine Coast was better than we could have hoped. We loved all of our accommodations, the food, the sites, the history, the hiking, the sea…everything. The people are kind, the exchange rate is incredible, the ferry system is fairly priced and reliable. Wow. What more could you want?
Thank you Canada!
Thank you for reading Part Two of our BC Road Trip; Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia. See last week’s post Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia here. Stay tuned for more fun travel posts coming to you soon!
We are always grateful when you help our blog posts find other readers by sharing, commenting and pinning this post. Thank you.
Schwab’s latest epic novel is pretty dark and bloody. Although she is one of my favorite authors, this one was not really for me. I didn’t hate it, but didn’t love it either. Here is my Book Review Bury Our Bones in the Midnight Soil by V.E. Schwab.
Vampire
The word vampire is only used a couple times in this 544 page novel, but it’s clear early on what Schwab is eluding to in this new novel. Of course her work is always magical and mystical and often violent. But this book is the darkest and bloodiest of any I have read. The story follows three women through centuries…three vampires through different eras. Three bloodthirsty women with an insatiable hunger for blood.
Characters
In most of Schwab’s book’s I have fallen in love with the characters, even those who are violent. But in this book I couldn’t love these raging women, and the story dragged. Of all the characters the modern day Alice was the easiest to identify with, and be hopeful for, in a hopeless situation.
Book Review Bury Our Bones in the Midnight Soil by V.E. Schwab
There were parts of this book that held me rapt. But generally I found it more contrived than any of Schwab’s previous work. I am aware I will be in the minority here. The book has been long anticipated, solidly reviewed and will be wildly popular. You may like it too. But, this one was not my favorite.
***Three stars for Bury Our Bones in the Midnight Soil by V.E. Schwab. Thanks for reading my Book Review Bury Our Bones in the Midnight Soil by V.E. Schwab. See last week’s book review Orphans of the Living by Kathy Watson. And be sure to see our Reading Round Up 2025 for our top book of our reading year.
Canada. It’s my next door neighbor. All my life I have taken British Columbia for granted. It’s funny how close and yet so far it seems, having only visited Victoria and Whistler. I have spent the last decade traveling ALL OVER the world, but not really considering my closest neighbor and friend, beautiful British Columbia, Canada. So summer 2025 I committed to visiting and enjoying this remarkable place. Here is my story Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia.
Mackenzie Beach Tofino BC
Oh Canada
My last visit to Canada was when we traveled across Canada pulling our pink trailer “Betty” in 2016. That was the very start of the Grand Adventure…seems like a lifetime ago. A lot has happened since then, but I have great memories of that trip and the kind people, amazing nature and interesting history along the way. That trip gave us the opportunity to visit six provinces bringing our total to eight of the thirteen. It’s a huge country, and I doubt we will ever see it’s most remote regions. But we have no excuse not to have seen more of British Columbia, less than two hours from our home in Washington State. Thus our Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia.
Ontario Canada in our ’63 Aloha trailer named Betty
Middle Beach Tofino Vancouver Island
Part One
We broke our ten day trip into two parts; part one Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia and part two the Sunshine Coast on the mainland. So I have broken my blog posts also into two parts as well. Today I present part one Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia. We spent five days, and easily could have spent two weeks on Vancouver Island alone. We will be back. Here is what we saw.
Port Angeles Washington
We took our time driving from our home in Port Orchard Washington to Port Angeles Washington, about a two hour drive. It’s one of my favorite drives close to our home, traversing over the Hood Canal Bridge and stopping on Marrowstone Island, Chimacum (CHEM-ə-kəm) and Sequim (skwim). Because our reservation on the Black Ball Ferry was very early in the morning, we spent the night in the simple but comfortable Olympic View Inn.
Marrowstone Island
Finn River Cidery
Finn River Cidery
Sequim is famous for lavender
Black Ball Ferry
Sunrise at the Ferry terminal Port Angeles
Day Two we were up very early and in line for the ferry by 6:15am. This ferry requires an advance reservation which can be made at the Black Ball Ferry line website. Cost for car, driver and passenger was $101 plus a $12 reservation fee. It is a 90 min crossing, calm on this day but it can get rough. We some how lucked out and were the very first car off the boat, breezed through passport control and were on our way within minutes. No time in Victoria this trip, but if you haven’t visited Victoria it is a must on a first-timers Vancouver Island itinerary. At least one night and two is better.
On the ferry to Canada
Duncan
Instead of time in Victoria we headed directly to the small historic town of Duncan. It’s an easy drive, less than hour from the ferry terminal in Victoria.
Today, Duncan is the commercial center of the Cowichan (kow·wee·chn) Region and attracts visitors to its trendy boutiques, art and antique galleries. It is also known as the “City of Totems” and that is what attracted us to the beautiful small town. Some 80 carved totem poles depicting the historic legends of the First Nations are easy to see with a self-guided walking tour through the historic core.
Historic and beautiful little town
Chemainus
Less than half an hour drive north from Duncan, we found ourselves in another small historic British Columbia town known as Chemainus (She-MAY-nus). I met a woman several decades ago who was from Chemainus and she told me about the Chemainus Murals. I’ve been wanting to see them ever since.
Chemainus Murals
It’s a treasure hunt to find each one
Chemainus History
Chemainus, BC, began as an unincorporated logging and seaport town in 1858, with its name derived from the Stz’uminus First Nation.
This one is my fav
Chemainus Murals
The town transformed in the 1980s when it embraced a unique mural project to revitalize its economy after the closure of its main industry. Today, Chemainus is known as “The Little Town That Did” and “The Mural Town,” featuring over 50 outdoor murals and sculptures that depict the town’s history and culture.
Lunchtime
We really enjoyed our self-guided mural walk, as well as a lovely lunch on a beautiful sunny BC day. After lunch we walked down to the lower town, home to the mill and shops. Chemainus is definitely worth a couple hours on your road trip.
Some beautiful parks in Chemainus
Lots of views
Ladysmith
Just another 15 minutes drive north of Chemainus, we took a moment to visit the historic town of Ladysmith.
Welcome to Ladysmith
Historic First Avenue
Ladysmith History
Ladysmith, British Columbia, began as Oyster Harbour, a settlement established by James Dunsmuir in 1898 to support his coal mining operations. The town was renamed Ladysmith in 1900 to commemorate the British lifting the siege of Ladysmith, South Africa, during the Second Boer War. The town was officially incorporated in 1904.
A brief stop in Ladysmith is worth it
Ladysmith First Ave
The heart of this tiny town is Historic First Avenue. Worth a stroll to shop, dine and admire the historic buildings, some under renovation. We also took time to visit and stroll along the beautiful Transfer Beach park and beach.
Nanaimo
The day was growing short but we wanted to make a brief stop in Nanaimo (nuh·nai·mow), although frankly we should have stayed longer and will next time.
Nanaimo History
Nanaimo’s history is deeply rooted in its Indigenous peoples, the Snuneymuxw (snoo-NAY-muxw), and the arrival of European settlers. Initially, it was known as Colvilletown, established by the Hudson’s Bay Company around a trading post. The name Nanaimo, derived from the Snuneymuxw word “Sne-ny-mo,” meaning “a big, strong tribe,” was adopted in 1860. The city’s development was significantly influenced by the discovery of coal in the area, leading to a boom in mining and industry.
Red’s Bakery Nanaimo
Nanaimo Bars
We came for the Nanaimo Bars. Nanaimo bars, a no-bake dessert, are named after the city of Nanaimo. The bars are believed to have originated in the 1950s, with the earliest known recipe appearing in a 1952 cookbook. While the exact origin story is debated, the bars gained significant popularity in the 1980s, particularly after a contest to find the “ultimate” Nanaimo bar recipe. After a Google search we ended up enjoying a very rich and delicious Nanaimo Bar at Red’s Bakery. Definitely worth a visit.
Rich and chocolaty
Delicious
Qualicum Beach
After a long day with an early wake up we were happy to arrive at our spot for the night in Qualicum (kwaa·luh·km) Beach. We were pretty tired, and did not have a lot of time to see any sites in Qualicum Beach. But we got settled into a little Bed and Breakfast Oceanside Manor and then headed out for a walk along the ocean promenade. The weather was excellent and the views as well and we stopped to enjoy delicious fish and chips in the sun. On our next visit to BC I would plan a full day here as well as considering continuing north to Campbell River. We will save that for next time.
Oceanside Manor
Qualicum Beach promenade
Perfect weather for outdoor dining
Westward Ho
Our hosts at Oceanside Manor made sure we had a delicious and hearty breakfast before saying our farewells and heading West across the island. I enjoyed this drive immensely as we took our time to enjoy the spectacular scenery of the interior of Vancouver Island on our way to Tofino..
Salmon Infused Eggs on Avocado Toast. Wow.
Cathedral Grove
One of my favorite things we did on this entire trip was this hike in Cathedral Grove, also known as MacMillan Park. Less than 30 minutes from Qualicum Beach. Beware! Parking is limited. We got lucky and found a spot that allowed us to enjoy the trails that are located on both sides of the road. Technically you are not supposed to cross the road, there are no crosswalks or safe crossings. We did manage it however, and found the nature on both sides astonishing. You might consider doing the trails on the north side one day, and on your return east you could hike the south side trails.
Big Douglas Fir Trees
Lots of Big Trees
The Cathedral Grove trails are home to some of the oldest, largest and most beautiful Douglas Firs in the world. Certainly worth a visit. The trails are flat, easy and should be manageable for most abilities. Some of the walking is done on raised boardwalks, protecting the fragile ecosystem. Does this place look familiar to you? Famed director George Lucas shot scenes for Star Wars VI: Return of the Jedi here, using the larger-than-life trees as the backdrop for the Ewoks home planet of Endor. Don’t miss this stunning forest.
Majestic
Hole in the Wall
Not easy to find, or to park. About 20 minutes west of Cathedral Grove you will come to Port Alberni, home of Hole in the Wall. We turned around at the Coombs Candy Store and parked back up Highway 4 about 100 yards, just along the busy highway. Didn’t feel very safe, but there were other cars parked there too. The hike is short and pretty easy along logging roads. I hear it can be mucky in the winter but in the summer dry and nice. If you are inclined, swimming at Hole in the Wall is popular, but we did not. The hole was once a shortcut for the city’s waterline and today is a picturesque waterfall on Vancouver Island.
Lake Kennedy
Continuing on Hwy 4 west we found ourselves hugging the shores of beautiful Kennedy lake, which is the largest lake on the island with a surface area of 6,475 hectares (16,000 acres), according to Wikipedia. It has an irregular shape with two distinct basins, the Main Arm and the Clayoquot (klah-WOK-wət) Arm, connected by a narrow channel. There are several spots to stop and enjoy views of the lake.
Vancouver Island’s largest lake, Lake Kennedy
Ucluelet
Prior to checking into our hotel in Tofino, we made a brief stop in the town of Ucluelet (you-KLEE-let), about 30 minutes south of Tofino. Ucluelet is a popular tourism destination for kayaking, surfing and family fun on the beach. It has a rich history as one of the oldest settlements on Vancouver Island. The name derives from the Nuu-chah-nulth phrase “Yu-clutl-ahts,” meaning “people with a good landing place for canoes”. The Yuułuʔiłʔatḥ First Nation, who have lived in the area for thousands of years, call it “Ucluelet,” which translates to “people of the safe harbour”.
Wild Pacific Trail Hike in Ucluelet
Picturesque Ucluelet
We took some time to walk the very easy and scenic Lighthouse Loop section of the Wild Pacific Trail along a beautiful bluff overlooking the ocean. It was quite busy on a sunny Sunday but easy to see why it was so popular. A great walk with kids and there is also a small museum. Definitely worth a few hours or even an overnight in Ucluelet.
Wild Pacific Trail, Ucluelet
Tofino
It was a long but lovely day in and out of the car and we were happy to arrive at our destination in Tofino (tuh·fee·now). We had booked a room at the stunning Middle Beach Lodge and were excited to find our room had a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean, with a small deck to sit and enjoy it. Middle Beach Lodge has a large variety of room choices, from small two person rooms like ours to large cabins and their new “tree house” rooms both which accommodate more people. I really loved this place and would like to come back with my adult children for a longer stay. Our room with view was only $190 Canadian per night ($140 USD) with breakfast included.
Middle Beach Lodge
Room with a View
MacKenzie Beach
On arrival we just relaxed, walked the property and went on a short hike to the long and beautiful Mackenzie Beach, before dinner. Middle Beach Lodge offers a nightly prix fixe dinner for guests. We had pre-booked it for our first night. It was outstanding, included a welcome glass of wine, crab cake appetizers, serve yourself salad and bread, followed by the main course of locally caught ling cod. Dessert too. Price was $60 Canadian (44 USD), and totally worth the price.
Dinner with a view
Crabcakes my favorite
Tofino Day Two
After an incredible breakfast included with our room at the Middle Beach Lodge we headed out to hike the forested bluff Tonquin trail into the town of Tofino. It’s an easy 2 mile trail with gorgeous views. Definitely worth it instead of driving. We spent several hours exploring the small town, visiting shops and historic sites and reveling in the gorgeous weather before retracing our steps on the bluff trail back to the lodge.
After a shower we drove back into town. Our first stop was Tofino Brewing Company, a popular spot for locals and visitors. We really enjoyed a cold brew and the vibe of the industrial taproom.
A must visit when in Tofino
Tofino Brewing Company
We had pre-booked dinner at one of Tofino’s highest rated restaurants, The Wolf in the Fog. We booked an early spot at 5:15, and were amazed how fast it filled by 5:30. I highly recommend you get a reservation. An inventive and local menu was delicious and the prices were surprisingly good for a semi-fine dining experience.
Wolf in the Fog
Inventive Pirogi
Ribs!
Final Tofino Day
It’s our last day in Tofino and the weather has taken a turn to gray. No worries, we are PNW people! Today we had pre-booked a water taxi (open air) out to Meares Island to do a rugged hike.
Tofino Water Taxi (round trip $40 CAD / $29 USD) met us and a handful of other people on the First Street Dock for the ten minute ride across the bay to Meares. Here we found the Big Tree Trail….a popular but difficult walk through the woods.
That’s our water taxi coming in
Onboard the Tofino Water Taxi
The BigTree Trail is not long, but it is very rough with roots and rocks, mud and includes rough hewn cedar plank raised boardwalk through much of the trail. It took us two hours to go three miles. BUT, if you are up to this hike, you will enjoy some of the most incredible old growth cedar trees I have seen anywhere in my life. Other plant life, birds too. And the boat ride both directions gives you a wonderful view back to Tofino and of the surrounding islands.
Gotta watch your every step
Gigantic Cedar Trees on the Big Trees Trail
Headed back after an adventurous day
Final Evening
Back to our lodge via the Tonquin trail, where we showered and got ready for our final evening in Tofino. First stop happy hour at Middle Beach Lodge, enjoying a gin and tonic and the gorgeous views. Happy Hour is every evening at Middle Beach Lodge from 4-7. Next we headed back into town in the car to dinner at Shelter Restaurant. This restaurant is very popular with visitors and locals for its delicious local menu as well as water view. I really enjoyed the fresh mussels. Highly recommend.
Dinner with a view at Shelter Restaurant
Lots of boaters at Shelter Restaurant
Delicious Muscles and Frites at Shelter
Reverse Gears to Comox
I could easily have spent a few more days in Tofino, and at the wonderful Middle Beach Lodge. But alas our time was over. We began the trek back east across the island where we would catch the ferry to the mainland at Comox. Our ferry reservation was at 3:00pm, so we enjoyed the drive, which took about 3.5 hours.
Heading to mainland BC
More to See
There is much more on the upper island to see, but it was time to move on to our second part of our trip, the Sunshine Coast. I guess we will need another Vancouver road trip soon. Meanwhile, come back next week for more about our time on British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast.
Beautiful Vancouver Island
Thanks for reading my post Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia. I hope you can use this post as a tool for your own Vancouver Island road trip. Watch for Part Two of our British Columbia Road Trip on the Sunshine Coast. Be sure and see last week’s post Tracking Trolls in the Pacific Northwest. We love it when you share, pin, comment and engage with our blog posts. Thank you.
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