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Laureen

    Asia & Oceania Travel

    Visit Beautiful Brisbane Australia

    Location: Brisbane, Australlia

    We started our second visit to Australia in the beautiful city of Brisbane. We came to Australia six years ago and saw many of this country’s top sites. But not Brisbane. So on this visit, which will be for two entire months, we began in Brisbane. What a delightful surprise it was. Here are my tips to Visit Beautiful Brisbane Australia.

    Brisbane Skyline at sunrise

    Where to Stay

    We spent four nights in Brisbane and wanted to be in the center of town, so booked a room at Royal Albert Hotel/Apartments in the CBD. In a historic building, we chose the Royal Albert for its location but what a nice surprise it was. A huge room with a small kitchen and a washer dryer were a big bonus for us. At only $114USD per night we were really happy with this choice.

    The Royal Albert Hotel

    We did not do and see everything in this beautiful city, but we did as much as we could. Brisbane is undergoing a big transformation in preparation for hosting the 2032 Summer Olympic Games, so there is a lot of construction. But we easily managed around it and enjoyed everything we saw. Below is our day by day recommendations to Visit Beautiful Brisbane Australia.

    Arrival Day

    Our overnight flight from Manila had us arriving in the morning – too early to check in to our hotel. So we dropped off our bags and headed out to wander and get a feel for the city.

    We were hungry so we headed down to the Brisbane Riverwalk area, one of the best things this city has going for it. On the way we enjoyed a stroll through the City Botanic Gardens, a beautiful space right in the CBD. Next we wandered the Riverwalk, but we did need to dodge some construction, before arriving at the Riverbar and Kitchen for lunch. Absolutely delicious and healthy lunch at this riverside open air restaurant.

    City Botanic Garden
    Riverbar and Kitchen
    Quinoa, kale and chicken salad at Riverbar and Kitchen

    Feeling revived we wandered away from the river and made brief stops at the Anzac Square Memorial, Jacobs Ladder and the beautiful City Hall at King George Square. Definitely go inside and check out this gorgeous building. We headed back to check-in to our hotel and had an early night with some much needed rest.

    Eternal Flame at Anzac Square
    Auditorium at City Hall

    Day One Highlights

    City Botanical Gardens

    Brisbane Riverwalk

    Riverbar and Kitchen

    Anzac Square Memorial

    City Hall and King George Square

    Royal Albert Hotel/Apartments

    Day Two

    I got up early and did a long run on the river walk enjoying the sunrise on this remarkable and well-used space. Runners, walkers, cyclists all enjoying a beautiful early Sunday morning.

    Riverwalk ancient lava flows, Kangaroo Cliffs

    Back to the hotel for a shower than off we went. This was going to be a full walking day but we were rested and ready. We had yet to pick up any groceries, so we began with a delicious healthy breakfast at Felix For Goodness, just a few blocks from our hotel. Fantastic food. Don’t miss it.

    Aussies love Avocado Toast and so do I
    Coffee at Felix for Goodness
    Falafel with red pepper hummus

    After breakfast we crossed over one of several pedestrian bridges to the South Bank of Brisbane. We spent the next several hours walking for miles admiring the sun, the river, the impressive architecture and the clean and sparkling skyline. We made brief stops at the iconic BRISBANE sign, Nepalese Peace Pagoda, Rainforest Walk and Kangaroo Point.

    Brisbane Sign on the South Bank
    Nepalese Pagoda
    Rainforest Walk
    Historic Kangaroo Point Neighborhood

    We had walked about 8 miles so it was time to try the City Cat Ferry, one of the best things Brisbane has going. A dash into the convenience store to purchase the GO Card (also works for buses) and then on board the ferry. Just for fun we rode down river away from the city to admire some of the well appointed homes before disembarking and grabbing the next boat back towards the CBD and an afternoon rest at our hotel.

    CityCat

    The City Cat Ferry offers efficient, inexpensive and abundant boats up and down the river all day every day. Cost is minimal. A much smaller boat called the KittyCat hops back and forth across the river, and the City Hopper runs a limited route to some of the central stops – both are free! They are all frequent, clean, and easy to use.

    After a quick refresh at the hotel, we grabbed an Uber to a restaurant recommended to us called Kick’in Inn to try Australia’s famous “bugs”, similar to crawdads. It’s a fun spot especially if you are with a group where you can order a wide variety of Cajun style foods dumped directly onto your paper covered table.

    Kick’In Inn
    “Bugs” and more

    Day Two Highlights

    Breakfast at Felix for Goodness

    South Bank Brisbane

    Brisbane Sign

    Nepalese Peace Pagoda

    Rainforest Walk

    Kangaroo Point

    City Cat Ferry

    Kick’in Inn

    Day Three

    After another morning run on the Riverwalk we were off to visit Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. We had booked our visit a few weeks ago, including an opportunity to hold a koala. Queensland and Lone Pine are one of the only places where holding koalas are allowed.

    It was after we had booked our Lone Pine visit that we realized there is a boat you can take right from South Bank Brisbane up the river to the sanctuary. Most people book both the boat and the sanctuary tickets together, but if you are like us and already have your sanctuary tickets, you can book the boat separately with Mirimar Cruises. I’m really glad we took the boat. It offered an interesting narrated hour-plus boat ride. The Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary was established in 1927 when Queenslander Claude Reid realized that the fur-trade was decimating the koala population. Starting with just two, he began his life’s work of protecting, rehabilitating and breeding Australia’s unique marsupials (no they are not bears!) Today the sanctuary is also home to a large collection of native birds, kangaroo and wallaby, tree kangaroo, amphibians, reptiles, dingo and 130 koalas.

    A Koala Cuddle at Lone Pine
    Kookaburra
    Mama Roo with Joey

    Back to the hotel for a quick refresh and then we go back on the City Cat to ride at sunset in hopes of seeing Brisbane’s Flying Fox. Brisbane is home to a large population of Flying Fox (also known as Fruit Bats) and dusk is the time to see them. The City Cat is a great way to enjoy viewing these animals that are so important to the balance of the ecosystem.

    Historic Story Bridge

    We disembarked after dark near the beautiful historic Story Bridge built in 1935 and enjoyed the Brisbane night skyline as we walked to our dining destination of Greca. Definitely eat at Greca, located under the Story Bridge and offering delicious Greek food and wonderful service all at a great price.

    Greca
    Greca

    Day Three Highlights

    Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary

    Mirimar Cruises

    Story Bridge

    Greca Restaurant

    Day Four

    There aren’t many hiking opportunities near Brisbane, but we had heard about Mount Coot-tha, so on day four we headed that way. Back on the City Cat just a few stops to Regatta, where we admired the historic Regatta Hotel. We then walked more than two miles to the Brisbane Botanic Garden detouring unexpectedly through a very old cemetery. We were happy for the detour though because the cemetery offered some outstanding bird spotting opportunities.

    Historic Regatta Hotel
    So many Cockatoo in the cemetery

    We arrived at the Brisbane Botanic Gardens, a wonderful large garden space and we were amazed it was free. The 56 hectare gardens are part of the city of Brisbane since 1970. A definite must-visit. The hike up Mount Coot-tha Reserve begins at this park. Starting at the Botanic Gardens visitor center the climb to the lookout is about two miles. The dirt path with several stair climbs meanders through native trees and flora and we spotted so many common and one rare bird.

    Brisbane Botanic Gardens
    Mount Coot-tha Reserve
    The Lookout at the top

    Reaching the summit you are rewarded with a spectacular view back down to the city. If you aren’t up for the climb, it’s possible to drive or take a bus to the summit. We caught the bus back to the CBD.

    Our final night in Brisbane we walked back to the South Bank and enjoyed a wonderful seafood dinner with a lovely view of the river at River Quay Fish. Another perfect way to end another great Brisbane day.

    Beautiful Brisbane
    Local Baramundi at River Quay Fish
    River Quay Fish

    Day Four Highlights

    Regatta Hotel

    Brisbane Botanic Gardens

    Mount Coot-tha

    River Quay Fish

    Time to Go

    Our four days in Brisbane was only the beginning of a two-month visit that will include Tasmania. As part of a visit to Brisbane it is an absolute must to head up to the Australia Zoo. We did this on day five as we headed out in our RV for a month on the road. I’ll talk about the Australia Zoo in next Friday’s blog post. But it would be easy to add it when you Visit Beautiful Brisbane Australia.

    Next week I’ll have a post all about the amazing Irwin Family Australia Zoo

    Visit Beautiful Brisbane Australia

    Brisbane was so much better than I expected and I would love to visit again when all the construction has wrapped up. There are numerous museums we did not make it to, and wonderful performing arts of all kinds. One of Australia’s largest cities, I have to say it is now one of my favorite cities in the world.

    Brisbane Sunset

    Check back next week to learn more about our visit to the Australia Zoo and keep following as we continue our Australian journey.

    See last week’s post Our Favorite Things to do in Panglao Bohol and our popular post Cooking Class in Hong Kong.

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    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review Crook Manifesto by Colson Whitehead

    In this new work by Whitehead we find ourselves back in Harlem in the 1970’s also the sight of his earlier work Harlem Shuffle. I read Harlem Shuffle but never wrote a review on it because I struggled to get into it…although my husband loved it. But I wanted to give Whitehead another go, so here is my Book Review Crook Manifesto by Colson Whitehead.

    New York City Not a Nice Place in the 1970’s

    Ray Carney, ex-fence is now on the straight and narrow and owner of a well respected furniture store in Harlem. Harlem in 1971 is a tough place, but Ray is trying to stay on the straight and narrow, despite opportunity and necessity of crime at every turn.

    But Ray has promised his daughter he will get her Jackson Five tickets, and he turns to a former fixer cop he used to work with. And all hell breaks loose as Cop Munson pulls Ray into a deadly game.

    1973 Ray’s old partner Pepper is still looking to be in the game of hijacking and heists, but things are changing in the city and work is slow. So he takes on a job as security on a film being shot in Harlem. The world of Hollywood with its cast of hustlers, mobster and hit men underestimate Pepper much to their regret.

    1976 Harlem is underseige, as New York prepares for the Bicentennial Harlem is burning. When a young boy nearly dies in a suspicious fire in one of Ray’s properties, he suspects candidate Oakes. Even though Ray’s wife is supporting the candidate Ray knows he is a crook, willing to kill for power.

    Crook Manifesto is a dark, yet often funny, look at survival in Harlem in the 1970’s. It is also an endearing story of family and loyalty and perseverance.

    ****Four stars for Crook Manifesto by Colson Whitehead

    Read last week’s book review Chenneville by Paulette Jiles.

    Thank you for reading my book review Crook Manifesto by Colson Whitehead. We love it when you pin, comment and share our book reviews.

    Asia & Oceania Travel  --  Island Life

    Our Favorite Things to do in Panglao/Bohol, Philippines

    Location: Panglao/Bohol, Philippines

    We spent an entire month relaxing on the island of Panglao in the Philippines, a tiny island connected to the larger island of Bohol by a bridge. We came with few expectations. In fact, after a three week whirlwind of Papua New Guinea and Hong Kong, we were looking for some peace and quiet. We certainly found it, and a whole lot more. Panglao/Bohol is one of the most underrated destinations we have found. We loved it and will be back. Here are some of our favorite things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines.

    Panglao Sunset

    Keeping it Simple

    We originally thought we would rent a car for a couple of days to see some sights. But our wonderful Airbnb host suggested we not. He explained how crazy the drivers were, and we had to agree after just a few days of walking around. So instead we hired a private driver on two occasions to spend the day seeing sights. We also went by Tuk Tuk or Tri-Cab to a couple other sites and beaches close to our bungalow. The hired driver was safe and economical. Our host helped us secure a driver rather than going with a tour. Total cost of an entire day for two people was less for a private tour with driver than it would have been for us to go on a group tour on a bus. And we could pick and choose the sights we wanted to see.

    Alona Beach

    Since we were in Panglao/Bohol for four weeks, we had lots of time to enjoy the sites as well as time to just do nothing. We like to do both! I understand most people probably won’t have a whole month, so I’m listing the things we did and how we liked them and you can pick and chose what works for you.

    Weather

    We spent the month of October, and every day was hot and humid. During the month we saw a couple of cloudy days and a couple of torrential downpours with thunder. Weather changes quickly so be prepared all the time. October is considered the end of the rainy season, with the dry season being December to May, however the high temperature does not fluctuate much throughout the year. It was 87 degrees Fahrenheit pretty much every single day.

    Panglao

    So let me tell you our favorite things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines;

    Wildlife

    Our hands-down favorite was visiting the Philippine Tarsier Foundation Sanctuary in Corella on the island of Bohol. If you only do one thing here it must be this. There are other places to see tarsiers on this island but the Philippine Tarsier Foundation is the one that is working to protect, save and conserve these beautiful creatures in their natural habitat for all to enjoy for generations to come.

    Our visit included an informative video and then a guided tour into the forest to see up close and personal four Tarsiers who had bedded down for the day. Tarsiers are nocturnal, and because they feel safe, they return to the sanctuary each morning and spend the day. I was smitten by these darling, tiny and highly endangered little beauties. PLEASE don’t visit places that put Tarsiers in cages. These beautiful creatures only survive a very short time if in a cage. Visit the Philippine Tarsier Foundation.

    Tarsier
    Philippine Tarsier Foundation

    Our second favorite was snorkeling the Napaling Reef with Freedive Academy Panglao. This reef is off the Northwest side of Panglao. This snorkel tour does not involve a boat, instead you are swimming right off shore in a beautiful protected reef. The highlight of this is to swim with millions of sardines…I am not kidding MILLIONS! There’s also many other tropical fish, and amazing coral. It was very cool, the water is clear and clean and our guide took so many great photos and videos for us to take home. Cost was only $20 per person. A must do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines!

    Millions of sardines
    Napaling Reef, Panglao
    Napaling Reef, Panglao

    PLEASE NOTE – we chose not to swim with the Whale Sharks because we did not feel this activity was eco-friendly or sustainable for the health and welfare of the whales. We discourage you from doing this activity.

    Waterfalls

    We made our way to two waterfalls, both on Bohol. The first one is not far from the Chocolate Hills, but is down a long dirt road. Because the road to Pangas Falls is rough, not as many people visit. Our driver managed it and we were thrilled to arrive and find we were the only ones there. The set of small falls create a beautiful pool to swim in. Ropes are provided to pull yourself through what is a pretty strong current. It was a lot of fun and I am so glad we got to do this all by ourselves. Turned out to be one of our favorite things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines.

    Pangas Falls
    We had the place to ourselves

    The second falls we went to was much taller. Can Umantad Falls is located a lot farther away from Panglao and it took us about two and a half hours to get there. We did not swim here although we could have and there were lots of visitors enjoying swimming. To get to the falls you have to pay a guy on a motor scooter to take you down the steep hill to the entrance of the falls. I wasn’t expecting that so I had to psych up to get on the back of that scooter. But it was very pretty and I’m glad we visited.

    Can-Umantad Falls
    Can-Umantad Falls

    Caves

    We visited two caves, one on Panglao close to our Airbnb and one on Bohol, more than two hours drive away. We loved the one on Panglao, but didn’t really love the second one.

    On Panglao only about 15 min drive from where we were staying is Hinagdanan Cave. Entrance fee was under $2 and you walk down some dark stairs and then suddenly you are deep in the earth with the most crystal clear beautiful pool of freshwater. Life jackets are available if you need a boost of confidence, but we enjoyed a swim in the cool refreshing pool with the filtered sunlight coming through the top of the cave and the tiny bats flitting around. A definite must visit.

    Hinagdanan Cave
    Crystal clear at Hinagdanan Cave

    On Bohol, and about two hours from Alona Beach is the Cabagnow Cave Pool. This cave is deep but with a complete open top. You have to go down a steep ladder to enter. We were there right after a big rainstorm and the water was not very pleasant looking. I’ve seen photos where it is not so brown, but the day we visited it wasn’t very appealing. Also the care of the surrounding area is very poor, very muddy and rocky with no facilities, so we really thought we could have left this off our itinerary altogether. Disappointing. We only paid about $1 each so no great loss!

    Cabagnow Cave Pool
    Cabagnow Cave Pool

    Popular Tourist Sights

    There are several other miscellaneous sights scattered about with numerous options for getting to these sights. We did not do all the sights, some of them seeming a bit tacky to us, but here is what we did do;

    Cadapdapan Rice Terraces – these beautiful terraced rice fields stretch golden across the landscape on the hill above the Can-Umantad Falls. When we visited rice was in harvest and along the stretch of road throughout the region rice is laid out to dry. Very pretty and worth a stop if you are in the region, easily combined with a visit to the falls. There is also a restaurant here.

    Cadapdapan Rice Terraces
    Cadapdapan Rice Terraces

    Chocolate Hills – these geological formations are fascinating. And although the vantage to view them is very touristy, we are glad we went to learn. Wikipedia says – The Chocolate Hills form a rolling terrain of haycock-shaped hills—mounds of a generally conical and almost symmetrical shape.[5] Estimated to be from 1,268 to about 1,776 individual mounds, these cone-shaped or dome-shaped hills are actually made of grass-covered limestone. The domes vary in size from 30 to 50 metres (98 to 164 ft) high with the largest being 120 metres (390 ft) in height. One of Bohol’s best known tourist attractions.

    Definitely worth a stop on Bohol.

    Chocolate Hills
    Chocolate Hills

    A Few More Sites

    Tigbao Bamboo Hanging Bridges – I had seen some photos of these twin bridges that hang over the Sipitan River and I wanted to check it out. So we did. To cross the bridge you pay less than $1, and the view is very pretty. Although the bridges sway, I felt completely safe.

    Tigboa Hanging Bridge
    Tigbao Hanging Bridge

    Baclayon Church – historic and beautiful old Catholic Church built in 1727 of local limestone coral blocks, this is a favorite stop on most local tours. There is a museum, but we did not go inside, we just admired the exterior.

    Baclayon Church built in 1727
    Historic Bacylon Church

    Beaches

    We visited several tourist beaches during our stay and there are many more we did not visit. The most beautiful beach we thought was Dumaluan. There are many resorts on this stretch of white sand but we visited through a small private park and paid 100 pesos (about $2) for access to the beach for a day. Alona Beach, which was the closest one to our Airbnb, is also the most crowded and home to lots of resorts and departure point for dive boats. The Alona area of Panglao is definitely the tourist base, but it’s also pretty and a nice place to swim.

    Dumaluan Beach a beautiful long stretch of white sand
    Alona Beach is home to the tourism base on Panglao

    Doljo Beach is also nice, but very shallow. Much of the island is surrounded by coral reef and you can walk hundreds of yards in shallow water. Doljo was like this but also beautiful. We spent a couple of hours on Momo Beach, where lots of locals and no tourists were enjoying the white sand. It was very swimable but a bit remote to get to.

    Doljo Beach
    Momo Beach

    Resort Day Use Pass

    We discovered how inexpensive it is to visit local resorts on a day use pass and we took advantage on three occasions. All three were amazing and we definitely recommend this if you are staying in a place like our Airbnb that, although it has a pool, is not located near the beach. All passes included food and drink. We recommend the following;

    Close to our Airbnb in Dinao

    BE Grand Resort – This beautiful resort was about a mile from our Airbnb. There was a gorgeous pool, a lovely manmade sandy beach with stairs down to the ocean. We had one of the best meals we had all month in their restaurant. We paid 1200 pesos (about $22 USD) and that included $15 towards food and drinks. I really appreciated the beautiful and large locker room with showers.

    Nightly rate at the beautiful BE Grand mid November starts about $140. This beautiful hotel would easily cost $600 a night in Maui.

    The pool at BE Grand Resort
    The bar at BE Grand Resort

    Two on Doljo Beach an Easy Tuk Tuk Ride

    Modala Resort – We really loved this beautiful beach resort as well. The pool was busy but very nice. A very shallow but long white beach fronts the property. Our lunch here was delicious and the service was great. We paid 950 pesos (about $18 USD) and that included $12 for food and drinks.

    Nightly rate for mid November at Modala is around $253 per night.

    Infinity pool at Modala
    Swimup bar at Modala

    The Bellevue Resort – not far from Modala Resort is The Bellevue Resort. We liked the pool here but the beach is very shallow. We had a nice relaxing day. Cost was 950 pesos (about $18) with 600 pesos for consumables. Restaurant was more expensive than the other two resorts but the food and service were excellent.

    Nightly rate mid November at The Bellevue Resort is around $135 per night.

    Clearly if you want the full resort experience but you are on a budget…Panglao is the place to go.

    Morning Bloody Mary beach side at The Bellevue Resort
    Authentic and delicious lunch at The Bellevue.

    Restaurants

    We used the tiny kitchen in our Airbnb most days as we usually do to stay on budget. However we did eat out a few times during our month on the island. Here are our favorites;

    A Little More Upscale

    The Pearl – located in the Linaw Beach Resort walking distance from our Airbnb. Our host recommended we visit and also made a reservation for us so we could sit with our toes in the sand at sunset. The service and view were impeccable. We had a full meal with several drinks and it was only $30. A lovely evening.

    Beach dining at The Pearl
    Sunset Dinner at The Pearl

    BE Grand Resort, The Food Hall – while visiting on a Day Pass to the BE Grand Resort we had what was possibly the best meal during our month. The service was amazing, and the food was on point, beautifully presented and absolutely delicious and authentic.

    Our favorite meal in the Philippines at BE Grand

    Gerardas Family Restaurant – our Airbnb host recommended this very authentically Filipino family restaurant and we are so glad he did. It was very inexpensive, (huge meal with drinks and desert $25) the service was great and we were able to try several delicious Filipino favorites. Several locations throughout the Bohol area. We enjoyed this place so much we went again on our final night on Panglao.

    Gerarda’s Family Restaurant
    Halo Halo is a favorite local dessert of evaporated milk shaved ice and fruit at Gerarda’s

    Very Casual

    The Garden Cafe – my deaf friend Veronica, who used to live on Bohol, recommended this restaurant. It is a restaurant that employs deaf people from Bohol. We liked this concept and wanted to support their cause. We enjoyed our meal especially the lumpia. $28 for a big lunch.

    Lumpia at The Garden Cafe
    Crispy Pork Garden Cafe

    Toto e’ Peppino Pizza and Italiano Restaurant – we went looking for a Taco place we had heard good reviews about, but when we found it closed we ended up at this wonderful little Italian spot. Pizza was authentic and delicious, service was great and as usual…so inexpensive. $18 dollars for pizza, salad and beer.

    Toto e’ Peppino
    Yummy

    Garlic n’ Lemon Bistro – this highly rated Alona area restaurant says it’s Thai, but we actually didn’t find much Thai on the menu. However we did find delicious food, giant portions, lovely service and great prices. Our dinner was $25 and we took lots of food home.

    The Signature Dish – Garlic Shrimp at Garlic n’ Lemon Bistro

    Guitarwoodhouse – We came to the Guitarwoodhouse just because it was a must see. We only had a beer and an appetizer (an authentic Filipino pork dish called sisig), but the Guitarwoodhouse has a full menu, bar and nightly music in a unique setting.

    The Guitarwoodhouse, Panglao
    Trying Sisig for the first time

    Much More

    There is much more to do on this beautiful island, and we think we should come back and visit again. We did not get out to any of the outlying islands but there are multiple options to do this. Diving, snorkeling and free diving are very popular activities and draw the most visitors.

    Our Airbnb bungalow was perfect for a long stay, complete with pool, bottled water and a kind and helpful host. We paid with tax and fees $69 per night. Rate varies by season. With a long stay it included a weekly house cleaning. We would definitely stay here again.

    Our little bungalow in Danao, Panglao
    Enjoying the pool

    How To Get Here

    Originally we had booked an Airbnb in Cebu City on the island of Cebu. But that got canceled, and in hindsight we are so grateful it did. Otherwise we would not have ended up on Panglao/Bohol. But we already had a flight to Cebu City from Manila that we couldn’t change. So from Cebu City we took the two hour ferry to Bohol. See it here.

    However, there is no reason to go through Cebu. You can fly direct to the newly opened Panglao Airport from Manila. There are also direct flights to Panglao from Korea.

    The Bellevue Resort

    We Will Be Back

    We did not meet any other Americans. This surprised us given how popular Vietnam and Thailand are with American travelers, why not here? Likely the Americans here are staying at the resorts or are full-time expats we did not encounter. It’s a very inexpensive place to retire. We only met a couple of Europeans. Most the visitors are Korean, Japanese and Chinese. We thought it was an outstanding destination.

    We had the best day snorkeling Napaling Reef

    Our Favorite Things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines

    Thank you for reading our post Our Favorite Things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines. We definitely think more people should visit here. It is so inexpensive, and also beautiful. The beaches are clean and the food is good and the people are friendly. It is now the most, budget friendly place we have ever visited since we started our world travels more than seven years ago. It beat out Bulgaria by about $15 per day. You should get here before the secret is out.

    Our next stop is Australia for two months…we hope you will continue to follow us on our Grand Adventure.

    See last week’s post Cooking Class in Hong Kong with Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio

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    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review Chenneville by Paulette Jiles

    This is my third Jiles book I have read and I have like them all. News of the World was made into a movie starring Tom Hanks. Simon the Fiddler, which I actually liked more was the second novel I read by Jiles. Now Jiles new book Chenneville takes us once again to post civil-war turmoil and into the life of a fascinating character John Chenneville. Here is my book review Chenneville by Paulette Jiles.

    Lyrical Writing

    Jiles is the real deal. Her writing style is mesmerizing. You can feel Chenneville’s pain, the snow, the horse beneath him. She has such a way that brings you full on into the character and the life they are living.

    It’s a shattered nation we find ourselves in, post Civil War and the slow Reconstruction. Lawlessness prevails, and when John Chenneville returns home after recovering from a gruesome head injury near the end of the war, he is confronted with unimaginable grief. His beloved sister, her husband and their 1 year old baby names after him, have been murdered. A senseless murder by a man on a murder for fun spree.

    Revenge

    Chenneville is a powerful character in his reserved presence. Smart and observant, John Chenneville crosses the territory in an effort to kill his sister’s killer. He will encounter a wonderful cast of characters a long the way, make both friends and enemies, trailing the murderer Dodd deep into Texas.

    This is a beautiful story. So raw and true with an insight into the hard truth of love, grief, revenge and acceptance.

    *****Five Stars for Chenneville by Paulette Jiles.

    Thank you for reading my book review Chenneville by Paulette Jiles. Read last week’s review The Art Thief by Michael Finkel.

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    Asia & Oceania Travel  --  Food & Drink

    Cooking Class in Hong Kong with Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio

    Location: Hong Kong

    Y’all know I love to eat. And I love to cook as much as I love to eat. Traveling around the world gives me such great opportunities to learn and eat the best of all the countries and cultures we explore. It’s rare that I don’t love the food in a country we are visiting, and our visit last month to Hong Kong China was one of the best. So let me tell you about our Cooking Class in Hong Kong with Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio.

    See my post My Favorite Cooking Classes Around the World here

    Dumplings

    Cantonese Cuisine

    What is Cantonese cuisine? Focused on fresh ingredients but also relying on many dried ingredients for flavor, Cantonese cuisine is well known in the USA because of so many immigrants. Pork, chicken and beef are common but so is offal, chicken feet, duck tongue, snails and other seafood.

    Rice with Sausage was one of the best things we ate while in Hong Kong

    There are so many delicious dishes in the Cantonese cuisine from fried rice, beef with noodles, greens in oyster sauce, and so much more. While visiting Hong Kong we really enjoyed rice with Chinese Sausage, Beef with noodles, Rice Noodles, Lo Mein, Wonton Soup, Spare Ribs, Congee and Fried Chicken to name a few.

    Pots n’ Pans

    I found Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio through Viator. I’m sure glad I did. This beautiful cooking studio was founded in 2013 and our instructor (owner) Bill spoke perfect English and guided us through a private cooking class. Classes often include a market tour, and you can book private or group tours with Bill. I highly recommend this experience if you are considering visiting Hong Kong. We enjoyed it very much. Be sure to come hungry!

    Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio Hong Kong

    Cooking Class in Hong Kong with Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio

    We arrived at the studio in the Kwun Tong area of Kowloon easily via subway. Bill was very flexible for our arrival time since we were the only ones in this particular class. Bill put together a wonderful course and menu for us that included; Pork Dumplings, Stir Fry French Beans with minced pork, Fried Rice with fermented veg and Sweet and Sour Pork Ribs.

    Owner Bill was a great instructor

    We started by getting the ribs going, because they would take the longest. We browned the ribs then added ingredients for the ribs to slowly cook in a broth of sugar, ginger, vinegar, Xiaoxing wine, and soy sauce. After more than an hour, the ribs were absolutely delicious, fall apart tender and one of the best things I have ever eaten. I will definitely make these at home.

    Pork Ribs start…
    …to finish

    While the meat was slowly braising on the stove top we made dumplings filled with minced pork, ginger and green onions. I’ve made dumplings before. They take some practice, but we did pretty good. We then browned the dumplings on the stove top before adding a mix of water, corn starch cooking wine, oil and soy sauce. These little pillows of goodness were served with a dipping sauce of soy, sugar and chili oil. OMG. Yummy.

    Forming the dumplings takes practice
    Maybe not perfect but taste divine

    We stir fried the rest of the minced pork mixture while parboiling the beautiful French green beans. We tossed all that together with some chicken stock, soy sauce, cooking wine and sugar, let it reduce then serve.

    French Green Beans start…
    …to finish. Yummy.

    We quickly stir fried the pre-cooked rice, mixing in a delicious ingredient I have never seen before – a fermented greens and olive paste from a jar. It added such a delicious flavor and texture to the fried rice. At the last minute we tossed in some toasted pine nuts.

    Bill was so easy to work with. Here we stir fry the rice with fermented vegetables and olives

    So Much Food

    We sat down to enjoy this amazing feast and we ate until we thought we would explode. And then, we took home a big doggy bag which we enjoyed again the next day back in our Airbnb for dinner. I know I can make all of these dishes back home, or even on the road as we continue our travels. Simple and fresh ingredients, with a touch of Cantonese love. Perfect.

    Arne can’t eat another bite!

    Come to Hong Kong

    We loved our week in Hong Kong and expect we will come again. Whether you are here for a week or just a few days, spending a few hours with Bill at Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio is a must. We would do it again!

    Thank you for reading my post Cooking Class in Hong Kong with Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio. You can try these simple recipes at home yourself…or visit Hong Kong…you won’t be sorry.

    Read last week’s post Visiting Hong Kong for the First Time here.

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    Reading Wednesday

    Book Review The Art Thief by Michael Finkel

    I learned about this book when my friend Wendy posted on social media that her friend Michael Finkel had a book on the New York Times best seller list. So I decided to check it out. What an amazing true-crime it was. I loved it and I think you will too. Here is my book review The Art Thief by Michael Finkel.

    Obsession

    This is the true story about Stephane Breitwieser, a young man in Europe who would become one of the most obsessed art thief’s in history. It boggles my mind how long he got away with it and how many relics and masterpieces he was able to just walk out of museums and cathedrals with. He stole more than three hundred objects over an 8-year period, with the help of us girlfriend who served as lookout and his mother who turned a blind eye.

    Possession

    Finkel brings us into Breitwieser’s bizarre world, helping the reader feel at once part of each heist yet also astonished and breathless at the sheer audacity of this criminal. Breitwiser was never in it for the money, he just had an insatiable need to possess rare works of art. He hid all his works in a secret hiding place for years.

    The Crash

    He is of course eventually caught (thus this book), after he makes one major mistake. Breitwieser, his mother and his girlfriend will all suffer from this years long and senseless crime spree. In the end, many priceless works will be lost, burned or never found.

    Thanks for reading my book review The Art Thief by Michael Finkel. A remarkable story of true crime and brilliantly written and engaging.

    *****Five Stars for The Art Thief by Michael Finkel

    See last week’s book review Birnam Wood by Eleanor Catton.

    My current read The Crook Manifesto.

    Asia & Oceania Travel

    Visiting Hong Kong for the First Time

    Oh we have tried to get to Hong Kong twice in the past. And for one reason or another it just never happened. But this year, we made it a priority. I really wanted to see this city, but I was also a little nervous knowing how immense it was. But we went, we saw, we ate and oh what a place. I know we will visit again. Here is my post Visiting Hong Kong for the First Time.

    Gigantic

    Hong Kong

    As we drove in after dark (our flight was delayed from Manila), the lights of this city of nearly 8 million seem to go on forever. And not just forever but up…this city is built to touch the sky with literally thousands and thousands of skyscrapers as far as you can see. I was feeling a little intimidated at the mass of it all.

    The Big Bus

    Luckily we made the right decision to get tickets to The Big Bus, a hop-on -hop-off bus that goes all over the most touristy parts of Hong Kong and Stanley Island. This was a very good decision because it really helped us with the scale of the place and to understand where everything was. Our two day pass allowed us to do both the red line (Hong Kong Island), the green line (out to beautiful Stanley Island) and the Star Ferry that crosses Victoria Harbor from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon. We did all of that. It was great.

    Kowloon
    Hong Kong

    On Kowloon we walked the waterfront boardwalk on a spectacular sunny day. We also visited the Ladies Market, the Flower Market and the Bird Market.

    Kowloon
    Flower Market
    Bird Market (popular pets)

    Another perk of the Big Bus Ticket was it gave us a round trip ticket to take the funicular tram up to Victoria Peak. We did this on day two and it was another great way to get the lay of the land. The tram takes about ten minutes to get to the top. It’s not a gondola it’s on a track, but it is so steep I couldn’t believe it. At the top you have wonderful views back down to the city. We took a hike around the circular trail at the top and enjoyed that excursion very much.

    Tram Track to Victoria Peak
    View from Victoria Peak
    Hiking Victoria Peak

    Harbor Lights

    Every evening at 8pm a light show with music commences on the waterfront of Victoria Harbor. It’s a synchronized light show that illuminates buildings on both sides of the harbor. We enjoyed it but it wasn’t nearly as impressive as the show we saw in Shanghai.

    Food Tour

    We booked ahead of time with With Locals to do a food walking tour. We met our guide Angel in the area called the Dry Fish Street. It was fascinating to walk around and see all the dried fish products for sale as well as many other things like mushrooms, seeds, sausage and plants. The Cantonese cuisine uses these products regularly in daily meals but the street was exceptionally busy getting ready for the upcoming Mid-Autumn Festival.

    Dry Fish
    Dry Sausage
    Dim Sum Restaurant

    With Angel we visited a very authentic Dim Sum restaurant that a visitor would never be able to find and we had so many great dishes. I love this style of eating, like tapas or small plates, but you eat until you are full. Next we visited a very ancient temple Man Mo, a quirky local store and a former prison now a museum called The Prison Yard. We tasted a special tea, a delicious beef soup and a lovely bowl of noodles. We ended our tour with a popular sweet called a Pineapple Bun (not actually made of pineapple but shaped like one) and a tea/coffee/milk mixture very popular on a hot day. We highly recommend this tour.

    Beef Noodle Soup
    Prison Museum at the Prison Yard
    Man Mo Temple

    We also did a cooking class, but I’m going to tell you all about that in next week’s blog post. Here is a sneak peek photo. 🙂

    More about our cooking class next week

    Lamma Island

    We decided to take a 40 minute ferry to Lamma Island, one of the smaller islands in this region of islands. Lamma has no cars, and is home to a large fishing fleet. There are two paved trails to circumnavigate the island. We walked from the small town of Yung Shue Wan where the ferry let us off to the even smaller fishing town of Sok Kwu Wan where we caught another ferry. The ferry ride itself was a lovely way to see the area but we were so glad we took the time to visit this tiny island. Such a change from past-paced Hong Kong. I think it would be an attractive place to live and commute into the city – giving you time away from the hustle and bustle.

    From the trail looking at Sok Kwu Wan
    The beach on Lamma Island
    View from the ferry

    Hong Kong Palace Museum

    Hong Kong is home to a handful of museums, and at the recommendation of our cooking class instructor we visited the Hong Kong Palace Museum to see two special exhibitions. This beautiful museum overlooking the water was so unexpected. We learned a great deal about ancient Chinese history, art and culture. I highly recommend it.

    Hong Kong Palace Museum
    Hong Kong Palace Museum
    Hong Kong Palace Museum

    Eating

    We were very adventurous in our eating, popping into some tiny places we stumbled on. Dim Sum, noodles, sausage and delicious stir fried greens made me very happy at our meals. We also discovered how popular the Portuguese sweet called Pastel de Nata is and the Mid-Autumn Festival speciality Moon Cake. After a week of the most delicious Cantonese Food we enjoyed an Italian Feast on our final night. Although we highly recommend eating the local food while in Hong Kong you can also find just about any other cuisines of the world.

    We loved this simple dish of sausage and rice
    We ate as much dumplings as we could!
    Egg tart known as Pastel de Nata
    A special holiday treat moon cake
    Our final night. Cheers Hong Kong and thank you.

    Getting Around Hong Kong

    Getting around a city of nearly 8 million people might at first glance seem daunting. But let me tell you it was so very simple. Hong Kong is home to an exceptional subway system, an above ground tram(rail) system, a massive bus system and an impressive ferry system. All of these were efficient, clean, on time, easy to figure out and inexpensive.

    Some subway stations are entire malls
    The old track style tram still very popular with locals

    Surprisingly Inexpensive

    Maybe because I was thinking about our visits to Tokyo or Singapore I was expecting Hong Kong to be expensive. It was not. All of our restaurant visits were less than $30 for two with drinks, except for our last night where we spent about $120 for an upscale meal. We purchased some breakfast groceries and they were very inexpensive. Transportation was inexpensive and tipping is usually not expected. I did very little shopping but I looked at a couple of ladies clothing stores and I was definitely tempted. Beautiful blouse for $13, a winter coat for $30.

    Delicious noodles with beef and goodies
    View from the Hong Kong Palace Museum

    We Did Not See it All

    It’s a big place and it was really hot and humid, which wore us out by the end of each day. We wanted to see the Dragon Dance for the Mid-Autumn Festival but it was suffocatingly packed with bodies I couldn’t take it so we decided to forego it.

    Enjoying a beautiful evening

    Next time we will also spend a day on Stanley Island, home to the famous Stanley Island Market. We also will next time visit the giant Buddha on Lantau Island, which is home to a monastery that serves delicious vegetarian food. And finally, we tried to go to a performance at the beautiful performing arts center in Kowloon but we just couldn’t make any of the offerings fit our schedule. Too bad as it looked amazing with symphonies, ballet and much more.

    Visting Hong Kong for the First Time

    Kowloon side of the Harbor looking at Hong Kong Island
    Hong Kong Island side of the Harbor looking at Kowloon

    It’s a wonderful city. Friendly, clean, efficient and inexpensive. Everyone speaks English and they are helpful and welcoming. They have some strong opinions about their place in the world and in China, and I loved hearing their input about that. Hong Kong has a long and wonderful history, and I hope the people can continue to be autonomous and flourish. We certainly hope to visit again.

    Thanks for reading my post Visiting Hong Kong for the First Time. Come back next week to learn about the cooking class we took in Hong Kong.

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