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Laureen

    Europe Travel

    Signs Signs Everywhere the Signs

    My Camino

    Location: Camino de Santiago

    Closing in on three weeks now and since day one I have spent a lot of time thinking about signs.  The Way is marked throughout the 500 miles with an astonishing variety of way-finding.

    Finding your way on the way is usually simple, sometimes humorous and rarely difficult.

    We missed a marker only once and found ourselves about a mile off the Camino. As back up we have an app that we can follow the route on our phones.  We try not to use it – and keep our noses out of phones.  But the day we took the wrong turn we

    The missed turn

    went to the app to see where we went wrong.

    Signage can be very amateurish and even cryptic in some places, and it was one of these that we missed that day.  But you get used to seeing the signs, so if you’ve made a wrong turn you won’t go along too far before you begin to suspect you’ve done something wrong because the yellow arrows have disappeared.

    Official signage is often very pretty blue tiles with the yellow Camino scallop shell.  These signs are most often found on the sides of buildings in the small towns and villages.

    Some towns and municipalities have taken it on themselves to create their own unique Camino signage. In Logrono they created a more stylized modern look using stone and metal.  In the teeny village of Redecilla Del Camino a long yellow stripe in the middle of the road through town bearing the Camino scallop shell guided you on your way.

    Sometimes the Camino runs parallel the highway and sometimes you have to cross a busy road.  Here the signage has the look of official highway signs, but still in the familiar blue and gold.

    Much of the directional marking is done with yellow spray paint.  It’s not clear to me who does this.  Locals trying to be helpful? Pilgrims who have noticed a need?  Sometimes you can barely make out the yellow spray paint.  Sometimes it’s unclear which way the arrow is actually pointing.

    As we climbed out of the valley and above the town of Najera we went through a beautiful section of red rock mountains.  The yellow arrows stood out against the red rocks.

    Sometimes pilgrims get creative.  Often we stumble across arrows or messages made from stones or sticks.  One place an entire labyrinth with a tiny cross in the middle was laid out.  A good sign.

    I still have close to three weeks to go.  No doubt there are still more signs ahead to amaze and amuse.  But these are the ones that have guided us along these past weeks.  On our journey full of
    hopeful signs for grateful life.

    Buen Camino!

    229 miles done. 259 to go! 😃

     

    Europe Travel  --  Food & Drink

    A loaf of bread A Jug of Wine & Thou

    Hikers Cannot Live on Bread Alone

    Location: Camino de Santiago

    A loaf of bread, a jug of wine, and thou.” —Omar Khayyam

    The sentiment in Khayyam’s words are not lost  on me. Particularly as I try to walk my Camino with an open mind for a simple life. Medieval pilgrims certainly would have been grateful for bread alone and may have subsisted solely on it – with a watery soup and wine thrown in from time to time.

    Tortilla Espanola

    But man I want a salad.

    As in most European countries bread is life.  In Spain the Panaderia on every corner is busy from the break of day.  This is true in the cities and in the small villages we walk through.  Some small towns we find the “Bread man” (my term) driving through the streets honking his horn.  Kinda like the ice cream man when I was a kid.

    Croissant with ham and cheese

    Boccadilla

    Along the Camino finding food is a bit of a challenge unless you are in a large city.  And finding food that includes nice fresh produce is even harder.  And dinner before 8pm? Forget about it.

    Likely for convenience and cost, the places that pop up for sustenance on the Camino sell baguette sandwiches called bocadilla, or the national dish of Spain, Tortilla Espinosa (an egg and potato torta/omelette), and coffee.  Sometimes apples and bananas.  This is what is considered both breakfast and lunch food.  It’s cheap and easy to carry.

    I’ve learned to pick up fresh fruit when I see it and stash it in our pack.  Clearly we are a long way from starving but a girl needs something to help her walk 14 miles each day.

    Eggplant Hummus

    A couple of days ago on a particularly uninhabited stretch of our walk I had  ham and cheese on a dry baguette for breakfast, tuna on hard focaccia for lunch and ham and cheese on baguette for dinner.

    That was the day I said no more bread.  No mas!

    And there was the one night we shared a can of tuna and a whole zuchinni while laying in bed.

    At the end of each day we can usually find what is

    One salad mixta from a very good Peregrino dinner

    called the Peregrino Dinner.  In every town we have found this except for one.  This meal is usually $10-12 Euro and includes two or three courses with choices.  The first course may be a choice of salad mixta, soup or pasta.  I always get the salad which 99% of the time is lettuce, tomato, canned tuna and maybe carrot and egg.

    But the second course is ALWAYS French fries with some meat.  You can choose chicken, pork, beef or

    This was an excellent salad in Burgos

    maybe veal or lamb.  No veg.

    Sigh.  I just want some nice zucchini or spinach or green beans or kale por favor!

    One evening we did encounter a Peregrino Dinner with a vegetarian option.  I happily ordered the vegetarian paella instead of meat and fries.  It was warm and yummy saffron rice with peas, beans, cauliflower and carrots.

    In our 16 days on the Camino our best meals have

    Catalan soup with pork and pasta

    come in the bigger towns.  No surprise.  I’m still dreaming about the Caesar Salad and Eggplant hummus we had in Pamplona or the beautiful Salad Mixta with fresh tuna, asparagus and beets I had with Catalon soup in Burgos.  And the best peregrino meal we enjoyed was a pork knuckle and the first course was fresh baby artichoke hearts with lemon in Puenta la Reina.  Happiness on a plate.

    Thumbs up for this Paella

    And so I’ve grown even more appreciative of fresh food with fresh ingredients and a variety of fruits and vegetables.  And when I can’t get it, well I am then grateful on those days for a loaf of bread, a jug of wine and thou.

    Go then, eat your bread in happiness and drink your wine with a cheerful heart; – Ecclesiastes 9:7

    191 miles done.  298 to go!

    Buen Camino!

     

    Europe Travel

    My New Favorite Saint

    Friend to Pilgrims on The Way

    This is Santo Domingo de la Calzada  – my new favorite Saint.

    Born in 1019 Domingo Garcia believed God had
    called him to be a Monk. But he was thwarted by the monks in San Millan who were not inclined to accept this illiterate man. Their loss was our gain.

    Domingo instead became a champion of the pilgrims and their safety and welfare on “The Way”. His life’s work became all about the pilgrims. He built bridges, hospitals and churches, many still available a millennium later for both pilgrims and non pilgrims.  He is revered by locals and celebrated by pilgrims and remembered fondly for his generous heart and humble service

    Thanks Dom. I am grateful.

    Buen Camino!

     

    Europe Travel

    The Long Haul

    My Camino

    Location: Camino de Santiago

    Day 14 and there is something happening that hadn’t occurred to me before – mental fatigue. Walking everyday, all day it begins to set in just how long this adventure is, both in miles and in days. At two weeks in I’m astonished at how far we still have to go. The days, weeks and miles unfold ahead in and endless fog and the end seems nowhere in sight.

    And so we settle in for the long haul. 

    After two weeks we have made some adjustments to help both the physical and mental strain;

    1. We are taking days off. Today we arrived in Burgos. Originally we had planned Burgos to be our first day off but it is actually our second. We plan to take at least one day a week off from here on. Originally we planned to arrive in Santiago around
    October 8th. Now we think it will be the 11th.

    2. I got rid of my pack. Arne has changed his mind about it being “cheating” not to carry the pack. I feel so much better now. The service picks up the pack in the morning and it is waiting for me when we arrive at our destination. We have lightened Arne’s load too, putting much of what he was carrying into my pack to take at least ten lbs off of him. 

    3. We are listening to our bodies. Most of our early aches and pains have gone, but we both have colds and the plantar fasciitis has continued  to give me trouble. Today, rather than take a chance of completely ruining my foot we called a cab to take us the last three miles into Burgos. My thinking is better I take a cab three miles than have my whole Camino ruined.  Tomorrow in Burgos I might go shop for some shoes that can provide me some additional support.

    With all that said, we are really thankful to be here.  Each mile has something new be it people or scenery or history or weather. Spain is a gorgeous place and all along the Camino the people are kind and supportive. We have met people from all around the world – Japan, South Korea, South Africa, Brazil, Spain, Germany , France, England, Finland, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Belgium, and of course the USA (Nebraska, Ohio, Arizona, California, Pennsylvania, Oregon and Florida).

    We have found our comfort zone in our pace and in
    our style of accommodations. Still working out the food however (blog to come on that).  Rain has threatened but only materialized twice and Mother Nature has been very gentle on us and we are very grateful for that.

    Walking side by side with my husband we sometimes go thirty minutes without speaking.  And other times we talk about the future or reminisce about the past or laugh and sing and pass the time in idle chatter.

    Each day is good.  We have settled in for the long haul.

    179 miles so far. 310 miles to go.

    Europe Travel

    Keep to the Paths of the Righteous

    My Camino Day Seven

    Location: Camino de Santiago

    I am not Catholic or particularly religious. I am not walking the Camino de Santiago for religious reasons, although it has a definite spiritual quality.  I believe anytime you have the opportunity to spend hours walking quietly you will find your inner peace and personal spiritual being. Whatever that is for

    The path crosses this 2000 year old Roman bridge

    you.

    The Camino or Way of Saint James has an incredible history that goes well back before Catholicism to Pagan and Roman times and perhaps further.

    Difficult rocky descent

    Pilgrims walked for many reasons for many thousands of years.  Read an interesting article here.

    And today the renewed interest in the Camino as a physical or spiritual journey has created a tourism destination that spans thousands of miles, numerous routes and multiple countries, bringing hundreds of thousands of visitors to Santiago each year.

    Up and away

    Buen Camino.

    I’m not all that familiar with the Bible but as I walk and contemplate I’ve found certain bible verses I know come to mind as I reflect on things I’m seeing and doing.

    For instance I am a bit astonished at the variety of pathways and conditions of pathways we have walked on over the

    Meeting friends on the path

    past seven days.  This verse comes to mind;

    So you will walk in the way of good men And keep to the paths of the righteous. Proverbs 2:20

    A dirt path through the vineyards

    Not all of the original “way” is still available. Unfortunately over time and when the Camino had fallen out of favor some of the route was paved over and destroyed. But it’s still easy to envision walking

    Through the hay fields

    where pilgrims a thousand years ago and pilgrims just yesterday have walked – and keep to the paths of righteous.

    While trying to be righteous I’m also trying to not trip on loose rocks, slip on scattered shale, step in horse or cow dung or fall in creeks and streams. I’m also trying to remember to look up from the path and enjoy the

    2000 year old Roman Road

    scenery, stop and smell the flowers or taste the wild blackberries and drink water and put on sunscreen.  I’m also trying to not get run over by cars or cyclists

    Here the path parallels a busy highway. Pilgrims weave crosses into the chainlink fence

    keep my eyes open for markers and arrows pointing the way and cheerfully greet other pilgrims with a sincere Buen Camino!  To walk in the way of good men. 

    84 miles done. 405 Miles to go. 🙃

    Europe Travel

    My Camino Day Four

    Surprise Us With Your Love

    Location: Camino de Santiago

    Surprise us with your love at daybreak; then we’ll skip and dance all the day long. Psalm 90:14

    So surprising, walking the Camino. Many things we did not expect or imagine-

    Freezing rain one day, hot sun the next.  I think it’s a test.

    Significantly more women than men.  Many women walking in small groups or pairs.  Many pilgrims walking alone.

    Loud pilgrims.  Thoughtful, contemplative pilgrims. Slow pilgrims. Fast pilgrims. Injured pilgrims.

    NOWHERE to go to the bathroom.  That is not only a surprise but a problem.

    I’d say more than half the pilgrims are not carrying packs.  These people are obviously using the courier service to send their packs or bags ahead each day.  Arne says that’s cheating… (I might try cheating
    😉).

    We were astonished to learn there were no rooms available in several of the towns we just went through.  I don’t know what becomes of people who did not plan ahead and book.  Luckily we reserve something one or two days out.  Albergue with other pilgrims, bed and breakfasts or hotels – we are doing them all.

    September is usually a quieter time on the Camino – but not this year.  Apparently the numbers were down over the summer as pilgrims have heard the horror stories of overcrowding.  So now, like us, everyone has waited until September. Surprise!

    After only less than a week we are surprised at the variety of terrain, flora, and geography we have stomped through.

    Our bodies hurt.  I don’t know why this is a surprise. Despite the training, the old bod is feeling it.  I imagine it will take at least a week before my body settles in to a pattern and accepts the daily toll.  I’m hopeful…then we’ll skip and dance all the day long. 

    45 miles done. 444 to go. 😯

     

    Europe Travel

    My Camino

    In the beginning…

    Location: Camino de Santiago

    It was a relief to finally start walking. I just needed to GO. And so we did.

    Day One. Leaving Saint Jean Pied de Port

    We arrived in Saint Jean Pied de Port France on the evening of August 31st. Went straight to the Albergue we had reserved in advance, located right in the Camino. But at checkin

    On the steep climb on day one

    the very rude owner
    told us we would need to pay again, even though we had a paid in full confirmation from

    Bunk room in Orisson

    Booking.com. Apparently Booking. Com hadn’t paid her, even though we booked months ago. Arne says to her this is between her and Booking.com. She says no, I won’t allow you in the room until you pay.

    Ugh. What are we supposed to do?  We need a place to sleep. So we pay. She is not kind. We are pissed and now need to try and get a refund from Booking.com.

    The Albergue in Orisson

    So I try to put it behind me. I want my mind clear and focused on the task we have worked hard for. We sleep restlessly and are up and ready to go by 7:30am. Step out the door and we are on the path. Here we go.

    The beginning poses a problem. You need to choose. Either only go five miles day one because it is very

    We frequently have an audience.

    steep. Or do the steep five miles and then continue another 12 to the next town.

    Since it was day one we chose the short day. And it was very steep, and also very beautiful. But it wasn’t all that difficult to do just five miles and we were at our stopping point by 10am. Sheesh. What were we going to do all day?

    Water is available all along the route

    We ate lunch at 10:30 because I was starving. We then showered and sat out in the sun to get my hair to dry. But the weather then took a turn so we went and laid in our bunk beds and read for hours.

    We were in a bunk room with a total of ten beds. Arne was the only male. Women seem to outnumber men about four to one.  Curious that.

    Dinner in Orisson

    Dinner for forty people was served at 6:30 and it was really delicious – chicken and vegetables with wine.  We enjoyed talking to other guests and then everyone introduced themselves and said where they were from.  Pilgrims from South Korea, New Zealand, Germany, Italy, South Africa, Brazil, Ireland, Holland, England, Spain, France and the USA.  We briefly told our story about how the Camino was the

    Bread and coffee for breakfast

    catalyst for our Grand Adventure and we got a big round of applause.

    I slept like a log with my ear plugs in and woke at 6:15.  Breakfast so far has only been bread and jam and coffee.  I’m a bit disappointed by that.  I really need some protein when I’m tackling a mountain.  But no protein for this mountain.

    It was beautiful but chilly when we started walking at 7:45.  We had 12 miles today, and most of it up.  But after less than an hour we saw the storm coming.  We stopped and put our rain covers on our packs and put on our ponchos.

    The start of day two

    The rain came.  It was a sideways rain.  Very cold.  Windy and the damp seeped into my bones.  Slogging along the fog so thick we couldn’t see more than 40 feet in front of us.  After an hour I needed to put on another layer.  I was shivering and so cold so we stopped and got out another coat.  Then we continued the climb.  We ate our sandwiches as we walked because it was just too wet to stop.  Slogging on.

    Miserable conditions

    Finally the wind stopped and the rain lessened.  Grateful.  At the peak elevation 4680 feet there was actually someone selling hot coffee.  I think he was an angel in disguise.  That coffee made the

    At the summit 1420 metres

    remaining three miles down much easier.

    We arrived in Roncesvalles 6 hours after leaving Orison. Here we have a real hotel.  No bunk beds.  Happy Hiker! Hot shower, a little yoga, a beer.  Oh the pleasures of life!

    Tomorrow is a long one – 17 miles.  But it is relatively flat and hopefully dry.  Surely better weather than today!

    Our route yesterday, today and tomorrow

    Total so far 17 miles!  Only 472 more to go!! 😳

    Buen Camino!