The tiny Republic of San Marino, only 23 square miles, is hiding in plain sight. Sitting on top of Mount Titano, the country’s capital is the City of San Marino. The city/state of San Marino is landlocked and completely surrounded by Italy. From the mountain top every which way you look you see Italy…the Adriatic to the East and Umbria to the West and South. And here sits San Marino – Hiding in Plain Sight.
San Marino
Take it Slow
Most visitors to San Marino come on a day trip from Florence or Bologna or even off a cruise ship. But I think you should stay the night. In fact, why not stay two? That’s what we did and we found a beautiful, quiet and relaxing city in the evening and morning hours before the visitors arrived. Granted, we were there in February, and there are not a lot of visitors in the winter. I’ve seen the photos of the summer crowds though…I recommend visiting off season.
Puerto in the historic city
View from Hotel Rosa
Where to Stay
We loved staying at Hotel Rosa, perched at the very top of the mountain. Because it was low season, it was easy to drive all the way up, where Hotel Rosa has private parking for their guests. Driving into the city during peak season can be a nightmare. Another reason to visit off season.
Hotel Rosa is a small and comfortable boutique style hotel with wonderful views and friendly English speaking staff. A delicious breakfast is included each morning with excellent Italian espresso. A great way to start the day.
View from our room
Sunrise coffee and a room with a view
Tiny but comfortable
A very nice breakfast
Two Days in San Marino
We arrived mid afternoon and after checking in to Hotel Rosa we headed straight out to see the sights. Although cold, it was dry and sunny and we wanted to take advantage of the good weather and beautiful afternoon light. We spent the next several hours exploring the three tower areas, a UNESCO Heritage Site. At the first tower we purchased the Pass Ridotto ticket. For just 8 Euro each this ticket gave us access to the towers, the tower museum and three additional museums in the city. On this first day we spent as much time as we needed climbing all over the beautiful towers, admiring the 360 degree views and taking so many photos. San Marino is like something out of a children’s fairytale book. I kept expecting Rapunzel or Cinderella to join our self guided tour.
Climbing up to the first tower
Looking from tower two over to tower three
You can see for miles
Arne enjoying tower two
Note to self – there are lots of stairs
After much tower climbing and astonished exclamations, we headed back to our hotel to refresh. After the sunset we walked through the quiet streets, admired the well-lit Piazza della Liberta, and then settled in for a beautiful dinner with a view at La Terrazza, one of San Marino’s highest rated restaurants. We enjoyed a nice spread of prosciutto and cheese, we each had pasta and I had fish while Arne had a wonderfully prepared veal. It had been a lovely day.
La Terazza meat and cheese
Gnocchi was delicious
Dinner at La Terazza
Piazza della Liberta houses the Government building and the statue of Liberty
Day Two
As I usually do, I awoke very early, and watched the sunrise from our window, coffee in hand, over the medieval city. What a site it was. Eventually we headed down to breakfast and then out to see what else this tiny town had to say. We visited three museums; Coin and Stamp Museum, Pinacoteca San Francisco and the State Museum of San Marino. The town has a funny collection of macabre museums we were not interested in; one about vampires, another about monsters and curiosities and a wax museum too. Not my thing.
Cobbled streets and paths
Hidden treasures
Coin and Stamp Museum
San Francisco
We did a little shopping, picking up some leather gloves for myself and some gifts. San Marino is a duty free zone, and prices were really good. But, no room in the suitcase so the gloves were all we got. After a bit more wandering we settled into an early dinner at Ristorante Bolognese. Here we also enjoyed a beautiful view of the late afternoon sun while munching on delicious tiny vongole (clams), ravioli and gnocchi.
Tiny Vongole sweet and delicious
Enjoying lunch
Excellent ravioli
San Marino – Hiding in Plain Sight
We really enjoyed our visit to this tiny country. San Marino is the 5th smallest country in the world. It is the third smallest country in Europe behind Monaco and the Vatican Holy See. It has a long and interesting history dating back to the original monastic community in 301 AD. When Italy was unifying in the mid 1800’s San Marino became a haven for those who objected to unification. And through that, San Marino was able to hold it’s independency. Today it is one of the oldest constitutional republics in the world.
San Marino – Hiding in Plain Sight
All of that and only 23 square miles. You should come and see this little gem, San Marino – Hiding in Plain Sight.
Thanks for reading my post San Marino – Hiding in Plain Sight. See last week’s post Two Days in Bologna Italy. Be sure to come back next week for more of our Italian adventures as we explore Puglia.
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Two days isn’t really enough. But that is what we had so we made it work. We actually had a little more than two days, but we arrived in Bologna after a 32 hour travel day that started in Koh Chang Thailand. So by the time we got to our hotel, we were exhausted. But the next morning we hit the ground running, to see and do as much as we could with our remaining time – Two Days in Bologna Italy.
Beautiful Bologna
Three or Four Would Be Better
I wished we had three or four days, mostly so we could just wander. This beautiful and ancient city was a treasure of antiquities dating back thousands of years. In addition it’s a fabulous foodie city. And don’t forget about the shopping. In and around the ancient history, it has a hip and young vibe, and although we were there in the winter, it was alive with visitors and locals out enjoying the city, it’s food and it’s rustic beauty.
Lots of Italian Caffe gave us energy for Two Days in Bologna Italy
A Brief History (thank you Wikipedia)
Originally Etruscan, the city has been an important urban center for centuries, first under the Etruscans (who called it Felsina), then under the Celts as Bona, later under the Romans (Bonōnia), then again in the Middle Ages, as a free municipality and later signoria, when it was among the largest European cities by population. Famous for its towers, churches and lengthy porticoes, Bologna has a well-preserved historical center, thanks to a careful restoration and conservation policy which began at the end of the 1970s.
Every turn something old and beautiful
Where We Stayed
I loved our little Bed and Breakfast in the Santo Stefano Piazza. A perfect location to walk to all the historic sites and restaurants. The piazza itself is home to a lovely church, several restaurants and weekly vintage market. Our Bed and Breakfast called Casa Isolani was on the top attic floor of an ancient Palazzo, still owned by the original family. A new addition of an elevator takes you up three floors, but then you need to walk up two additional flights. Breakfast is included but down the street at a very popular Pasticceria Santo Stefano where every morning we enjoyed fabulous Italian coffee, juice and brioche.
Santo Stefano Basilica
View of Bologna from our room
Ancient Palazzo staircase in our hotel
Ancient beams in our room
How to See the City in Two Days
After breakfast we spent our first day exploring on foot using GPS My City – one of our favorite apps for getting around a new place. GPS My City/Bologna is an easy to follow guide to 13 of the most significant sites within Bologna’s historic center. We spent several hours enjoying the sites using GPS My City. We missed a couple, but here are our favorites we did on day one;
GPS My City Bologna
Piazza Maggiore – Bologna’s main square, a gathering place for centuries, is home to multiple landmarks. Don’t miss the astonishing Basilica of San Petronio, the Notary Palace, the Clock Tower, the Accursio Palace/Salaborsa Library, and the Bianchi Palace. Music and festivals happen here throughout the year and the piazza is home to many shops and restaurants. It is the place to see and be seen.
Neptune Fountain – a major landmark of the Piazza Maggiore is the Neptune Fountain. The bronze statue of Neptune was completed in 1566 to commemorate the election of Pope Pius IV. Most local walking tours meet and start at the foot of the Neptune Fountain.
Basilica of San Petronio
Neptune Fountain
Churches
Basilica of San Petronio – This church which dominates the Piazza Maggiore was begun in 1390 but the exterior was never completed. But be sure to go inside – the soaring vaulted ceilings are amazing.
Saint Peter Cathedral – a church has stood on this site since 1028. The current church was built in 1184 with additions and changes made to the Baroque church multiple times through the centuries.
Basillica of San Petronio
Cathedral of Saint Peter
The Towers
Asinelle and Garisendo Towers – Via Rizzoli (Rizzoli Street) is a major thoroughfare that links Piazzo Maggiore to the Two Towers; Asinelle and Garisendo. These ancient leaning structures are named after the families who built them. In the photo below, there is an artists rendition of what Bologna may have looked like in ancient times when an estimated 180 towers existed. Both for defensive purposes but also for rich families to show off – each trying to build their tower taller than their neighbor. Only a handful of towers remain, with the Asinelle and it’s shorter neighbor the Garisendo the most famous.
The Asinelle Tower is 97 meters and is the tallest leaning tower in Italy with a 1.3 degree slope. The Garisendo Tower is currently 48 meters. Originally 60 meters, it was lowered in the 14th century when it’s slope became dangerous.
Unfortunately neither tower are open to the public. Asinelle was closed recently and the ground around the towers is currently being stabilized in hopes of saving both towers. It is unknown if the public will be able to access the towers (Asinelle has 496 wooden steps to the top) in the future.
Artist depiction of medieval Bologna towers
The towers today undergoing structural work
On day one we also did a little shopping, had a manicure and got my hair cut! It was a busy day.
Delicious Bologna Specialties
Mortadella
Mortadella Bologna is one of this regions most well known specialties. And if you, like me, grew up on American style Boloney sandwiches you need to be re-educated. Mortadella Bologna is a delicious, soft and sweet ground pork style cured meat. The name derives from the ancient use of a mortar and pestle to grind the ingredients. This is not American bologna. It’s ubiquitous around the city and easy to find good quality delicious mortadella sandwiches, charcuterie, pizza and more. A must when in Bologna.
Amazing mortadella
Open wide, so delicious
Cheese
Parmagiano Reggiano – Italian Parmigiano Reggiano can only be produced from the milk of cows that feed in a strictly defined area between the cities of Parma, Reggio, Modena, Bologna, and Mantova. The first record of Parmigiano-Reggiano making is from 1254. Throughout Bologna you will find delicious parmigiana. We stopped for wine and cheese at Simoni, a famous producer and distributor in Bologna. I really wanted to take an entire wheel home with me.
Bolognese
Bolognese – well you can’t visit Bologna without eating Bolognese. One of my favorite things to eat when I am in Italy, but I rarely order it in the USA. There is just something about the way the Italians make this rich and delicious meat sauce, served at La Trattoria Del Tempo Buono over homemade tagliatelle
Wine and Parmigiana at Simoni
Bolognese at La Trattoria
Day Two
Despite some rain in the morning, we set out on day two to climb to the Sanctuary of San Luca . The climb is the amazing part of this destination, although the cathedral at the top is also beautiful. However, from our hotel in Santo Stefano Piazzo we walked the four miles to San Luca with 95% of the walk being undercover in Bologna’s famous porticoes. Bologna’s Tourist Website says;
Wikipedia
“The Sanctuary of San Luca, located on Colle della Guardia, has been the symbol of Bologna as well as a place of religious worship for centuries. It is connected to the city centre by a road that, starting from Porta Saragozza, unwinds for four kilometers with a portico that boasts over 600 archways and is the longest in the world. Together with the other city porticoes, it was included in UNESCO World Heritage Site list in 2021.
Sanctuary San Luca (Canva)
The portico started being built in 1674 and, during Ascension week, a procession has been walking along it carrying the Byzantine Madonna with Child to the Cathedral since 1433. The Sanctuary church was, however, built later in the 18th century to replace a previous 15th-century construction.
The sanctuary offers marvelous views over the surrounding landscape. In addition, the panoramic terrace opened in 2017 at a height of 42 metres above Colle della Guardia (300 m asl), enables visitors to admire a unique 180° view of Bologna from the hills to the centre stretching out as far as Casalecchio di Reno.”
Portico
The View
Portico Climb
It was a fascinating way to see this ancient part of the city, all under cover so perfect no matter what the weather. It’s a workout too. We were doing the climb on a Saturday, and lots of locals use this climb for their weekend run, hike and even cycle. The view from the top was bellisima!
Sanctuary San Luca
Returning back down to the city we visited the Mercato di Mezzo, a lovely market with gorgeous fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese, fish, meat and fresh pasta. We worked up an appetite for our next excursion, a food tour.
Mercato produce
Cheese!
Food Tour
We spent the evening with Tours and the City a local company providing walking food tours in Bologna and elsewhere in Italy. Our guide was great and she helped us learn more about the wonderful foods of this region of Italy. We tried new-to-us things like Tigelle and Lambrusco and had lots mortadella, prosciutto, parmigiana, pasta and gelato too. I definitely recommend doing a food tour to get a wide understanding of the delicious and varied foods of this region.
Tigelle
Tortellini
Prosciutto
Lambrusco
Final Night
Yep – we did all of that in two days. It really was too brief, but if you only have Two Days in Bologna Italy, you can enjoy it. I highly recommend the food tour, and the GPS My City tour. Don’t miss the porticoes and San Luca, and eat everything you can!
Portico in Santo Stefano Piazza
Two Days in Bologna Italy
I have traveled a lot in Italy over the past forty plus years, but had never made it to Bologna. In fact only recently has Bologna gotten on my radar. It’s the lesser known city with most tourists hitting Florence, Rome, Venice and Milan. I’ve been to all of those and I have to say Bologna has just as much to offer with incredible history and delicious food and an ancient beauty all it’s own. It’s time to get Bologna on your travel radar. Next time I will definitely stay longer.
Thank you for reading my post Two Days in Bologna Italy. See last week’s post Sometimes We Enjoy a Travel Perk or Two here. Be sure to keep following for more about our Italy adventures – coming up next week our visit to San Marino.
Well, I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve been in Paris, either for a long stay or a quick pass through. But Paris is always a good idea, and this time we had less than 48 hours. So, we booked a food tour and a few dinner reservations and I began Eating My Way Through Paris.
Delicieuse
French Coffee
Delicious or delicieuse, no matter how you say it , the French Cuisine is all that and more. It can have a reputation of being expensive and a bit fussy, but in our travels we have found the opposite. In fact, everyday French cuisine is relatively simple. Food in Paris is also international and the French embrace many cuisines and flavors.
Coffee and Steak Tartare
Steak Tartare
Figs and Cream
My favorite two things in Paris are the coffee, my favorite in all the world, and steak tartare. I can get both excellent coffee and steak tartare back home in the USA, but there is just something about enjoying these special favorites in a cafe in Paris. On our first night in Paris we had steak tartare with a bit of a different twist; it included sun dried tomatoes, at Les Fines Gueules just a block or two from the Louvre.
Since figs were in season we enjoyed a delicious and light desert of fresh and stewed figs in a yogurt like cream. Wow.
Walking Food Tour
Warm Croissant on a cold morining
Our second day, we decided to forego the museums and Eiffel Tower and instead make our way to Montmarte for a walking food tour with Devour Tours. This tour was kind of expensive, $100 each, but we were interested in learning more about Montmarte and the hidden places locals go for a bite to eat. So this day was all about Eating Our Way Through Paris.
French Croissant
It was a chilly morning but we met our guide and three other couples (2 American and 1 Canadian) and began our tour with coffee and one of the best croissants I’ve ever had. We learned about the laborious process of creating the layers and layers and LAYERS in a perfect croissant and savored every bite. Off to a great start.
Chocolate
Chocolate
Macaron
The French have delicious chocolate, despite the fact they grow no cacao in their country. They have, however, perfect the art and we enjoyed a tasting at one of the cities finest chocolatier Arnaud Larher. Here we also sampled macarons, another Parisian specialty. This is macarons not macaroons (coconut) and these luscious little bites are amazing. Also expensive.
Organic
French Cheese
Local and Organic
Locals are embracing shops that are popping up all around the neighborhoods offering locally grown, organic, and sustainable products. Our guide took us to a lovely shop brimming with beautiful produce from the region, as well as coffees, pickled and canned items, fresh pastas and more. We tasted incredible cheese here (the French really know cheese) and I ate way too much. The chevre was out of this world. Also included in our tasting was jamon and grapes. This was my favorite stop on the tour.
Brittany
Crepe
Apple Cider
Brittany and Normandy (where we had just been days before) are the home of the French crepe and apple cider. Our next stop took us to a small outdoor cafe run by a woman from Brittany. Crepe Octopus is where we had an amazing freshly made apple cider with a warm and delicious caramel and butter crepe. Please and merci.
Wine
Organic Wine
Of course you can’t visit France and not drink wine, but our wine tasting had a little twist. We visited an organic wine shop and tasted several local wines including a vegan wine. Vegan wine means no animals were used in any part of the process including even a horse pulling a cart. Not sure I found the wines to my taste, but it was still interesting and commendable to see this effort and passion this shop has for their niche product.
Quiche
Quiche
We ended our food tour at a lovely little cafe for an amazing quiche dish that was chock full of vegetables and ham and cheese. I really loved this dish. I make quiche often at home, and I will need to try to recreate this. Served with a small salad and a delicious mustardy vinegarette. Delicious.
We really enjoyed this tour and walking around and learning a bit more about the beauty and history of the Montmarte neighborhood.
Dinner
Italian Appetizers
Gnocchi
Yes, even after all that, we still had dinner. After our tour we headed back to our hotel to organize and repack for our flight the next morning. Then we wandered out to meet our Parisian friends Pierre and Zineb. They chose a local Italian bistro for us to enjoy dinner with them. Oh my gosh. Il Bacaro was incredible. Remember what I said earlier about a wide array for international cuisines? You can find Italian, Sicilian, Moroccan, Ethiopian, Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, Brazilian….everything! And of course McDonalds is also in Paris.
Happy Girl in Paris
At Il Bacaro we shared an amazing appetizer plate with my favorite, a bacalao mousse, also octopus,and an eggplant ratatouille.
For our main course, Arne and I shared gnocchi in a tomato and red pepper sauce. The little dumplings were made with perfection – light and airy.
I was way too full after Eating My Way Through Paris I couldn’t eat dessert. We said farewell to our friends and headed back to our hotel and prepared for our morning flight.
Last week’s blog post was all about our wonderful and surprising visit to the islands of Guernsey and Jersey in the English Channel. Although quick it was really lovely. We left Jersey by ferry and made our way to France for our next adventure, Monet’s Giverny and A Wee Bit More.
First a Quick Visit to Saint Malo
We made our way to France and the ancient walled city of Saint Malo for one night only. We arrived midday and were able to enjoy the beauty of this historic city, the beach and a dinner of mussels and frites – a well known dish from the region.
Saint Malo Beach
Ramparts of Saint Malo
Next Morning
The next morning we rented a car and enjoyed a leisurely drive across the north of France, leaving Brittany and coming to Normandy. This area has so much to see, including Caen and the magnificent Mont St. Michel. But since we have visited here a few times before we decided to stop only in two places my husband had never seen. Beautiful Bayeux which reminds me of the village in Beauty and the Beast and is home to the remarkable tapestry depicting the battle of William the Conquerer. We also made a brief stop at the Omaha Beaches and the American Cemetery at Normandy. I highly recommend these things when in Normandy.
Bayeux
American Cemetery at Normandy
On to Giverny
Giverny has been on my bucket list for a decade, and we were set to visit in June 2020, but the pandamit changed all of that. So on this trip it was a high priority to tick it off the list, finally. What a magnificent place, not just Monet’s Garden but the teeny village, our remarkable hotel and one of the best meals I’ve ever had. Monet’s Giverny and A Wee Bit More.
Monet’s Giverney and a Wee Bit More
O Plum Art
I booked this boutique hotel just a week or so in advance and I am so glad we got in because it is tiny and spectacular. Only three rooms inside a historic farm house, but totally renovated and decorated in modern light colors. It was really lovely. And the breakfast the next morning was out-of-this-world good. You can make a reservation for O Plum Art here.
O Plum Art
One of several amazing breakfast dishes, smoked trout at O Plum Art
The Village of Giverny
I was surprised to find that Giverny is not really a town. It is just Monet’s Gardens, and historic homes – most which have been converted to inns and restaurants. Giverny is really just one main street, a few little shops and lots of great history including an ancient church. Behind the church is Monet’s tomb.
Main Street Giverney
Main Street Giverney
Le Jardin des Plumes
In association with our sweet little hotel, we booked a table for dinner at the companion restaurant down the street. The Chef and his family run the restaurant as well as two small inns. The restaurant is incredibly unique. You don’t really have a menu. Instead you choose if you want three, five or seven courses. We chose five courses, which were all small courses. But in addition to the five courses we had at least another 10 small “bites”. It was sublime. We ate literal works of art in every mouthful. Our five courses were Halibut, Chicken with Mushroom Soup, Tomato/Lobster, Beef Tongue with Pickles and an apricot dessert. Absolutely incredible. In addition our special bites included oysters, salmon candy, apple sorbet, cod balls and so much more. I have shared several photos here and if you visit Giverny I cannot recommend this highly enough. Be sure to make a reservation at Le Jardin des Plumes
By the way our breakfast at O Plum Art was done by the same chef of this amazing dinner. No surprise it was so good.
Tomato and Lobster
Oysters
Me very happy
Turmeric Bite
Finally Monet’s Garden
I’ve written before about My Favorite Gardens Around the World. Visiting renown gardens is one of the things we try to do in many of the destinations we go to. Gardens tell a story of history, culture and art – all wrapped in a colorful canvas. Monet’s Giverny was all that and more.
Monet’s Gardens
Monet’s Gardens
In 1883 Claude Monet acquired land next to his home in Giverny to create a water garden. He diverted water from the nearby Ru river. Monet’s masterpieces of his waterlily collections were painted at this water garden. The garden expanded for years and through his middle and late years Monet painted what he sowed.
Monet’s Gardens
Monet’s Gardens
Unlike many of the highly manicured gardens found in the French chateaus, Monet’s Giverny is a riot of color and texture. The garden changes throughout the season and is designed in color blocks but also includes trees, bamboo, roses and of course, the waterlilies.
Monet’s Gardens
Monet’s Gardens
Monet died in 1926 at 86 years old. He had been in Giverny for more than half his life, and the gardens were mature and substantial by that time. The houses and outbuildings flowed seamlessly with the gardens throughout the 2 and a half acres.
Monet’s Family Home
A Renoir in the house
Today the garden’s and the house are managed by the Foundation Claude Monet . The gardens are cared for year-round but are only open to the public April 1st to November 1st. We enjoyed seeing it in the fall, when everything was still in bloom but also a bit large and chaotic and overgrown. It was both dazzling and disordered and I loved it.
Beautiful day and fun tour
A Few Tips For Monet’s Giverny and A Wee Bit More
Come in the fall or spring when there are less visitors. The tour buses and groups seem to arrive in the morning, so wait to enter until a bit later. Allow two hours at least and don’t miss going inside the house to see how Monet and his family lived and his collection of priceless art from well known painters. We arrived at 10:30 in the morning, did the full walk on our own, and then did it again because the tour groups had left and it was much quieter. I loved the second time around because we noticed new things. I took photos of many plants I’d like to add to my own garden.
Monet’s Gardens
You can make this a day trip from Paris (many people do) but again I recommend staying, strolling, eating and breathing the beauty of Monet’s Giverny and A Wee Bit More.
We meant to visit here in 2020. But…well, you know. When our travels were shut down in 2020 we eventually got refunds for most of our reservations. But in Guernsey and Jersey we received vouchers from Expedia to be used at a later date for our hotels. And so, 26 months after our original booking we are visiting the English Channel Islands Guernsey & Jersey.
We came with few expectations, just a desire to see a place we have never been. We knew only a bit about these islands and arrived with an open mind. Our stay on both islands was very short. But we enjoyed a taste of these unique places.
Where Is Guernsey and Jersey?
Protectorate countries today, Guernsey and Jersey retain their association with the United Kingdom, despite the geographic location close to France. We flew direct to Guernsey from Gatwick Airport London, a flight that took about an hour. Our flight on to Jersey three days later was the shortest flight we have ever taken, only eleven minutes.
A Brief History
This islands separated from mainland Europe about 6000 years ago and prehistoric evidence has been found. Third century Roman occupation of Europe brought settlers fleeing to the islands and Christianity arrived in the 10th century. The islands fell under the Duchy of Normandy and then King John of England throughout the middle ages. Little changed in the next centuries as the islands were a disputed stronghold.
St Peters Port Guernsey
As Napoleon and the wars of modern times unfurled, the islands once again found themselves under occupation due to their strategic location in the theater of war. Following German occupation during WWII the islands recovered industry, and tourism began to boom in the 1960’s.
The flag of Jersey
Today the people of Guernsey and Jersey are British nationals. The islands are known as Bailiwick of Guernsey and Bailiwick of Jersey, self-governing but under the protection of Britain.
Guernsey Things to Do
Guernsey is very small, only about 6 miles long and 3 miles wide. However since it is very rural we decided to rent a car during our short three night two day visit. Driving in Guernsey is a bit nerve racking…tiny one lane roads dominate the island. If you aren’t up to tackling these roads, the island has a very well run bus transit system.
During our two days we enjoyed a handful of the highlights of the island, but there are many more places to see with more time available. You can learn more at Visit Guernsey.
German Underground Hospital Guernsey
German Underground Hospital – both islands are home to several museums, tunnels and sites related to the five year occupation of the island by the Nazi Germans during WWII. We chose to visit the German Underground Hospital site. It was fascinating. More than 70,000 square feet, hand dug tunnels that served for a very short time as a hospital and ammunitions storage during the war. Absolutely fascinating. Be sure and have a coat or sweater as the tunnel is very cold.
Little Chapel Guernsey
Little Chapel – In 1914 Brother Diodat began a labor of love to build this beautiful tiny chapel and cover every surface with pottery and tile. It’s a lovely thing to see and enjoy and I highly recommend a brief visit.
Jerbourg Headland Guernsey
Jerbourg Headland Coastal Hike – as I’m sure you know, we love to walk and hike, and the island of Guernsey offers some lovely pastoral and coastal walks. We chose to do a coastal walk on the Jerbourg Headland. From the easy parking access at the start (with restrooms), we wandered the coastal trail with stunning views south east. It was a foggy morning and we saw a bit of rain, but still the views were great…I’m sure on a clear day you could see forever. Some steep parts but not a difficult hike.
Lihou Island at High Tide
Walking to Lihou at low tide
Low Tide Visit to Lihou Island – at low tide you can make the trek on the causeway to Lihou Island. Be sure to check the tidal chart or risk getting stuck on the island. At low tide the path and causeway is exposed, though not completely dry so wear the proper footwear to make the trek. Enjoy a brief walk and maybe a picnic on the island before returning the way you came. No services on the island, except for a self-catering hostel for groups with advance reservation. A unique experience, a must when in Guernsey.
St Peters Port
Victor Hugo House
Saint Peters Port – on the east side of the island is the capital city of Guernsey St. Peters Port. A lovely little coastal town, with shops, restaurants and historic sites including the home of Victor Hugo and the historic Town Church – the oldest in the Channel Islands.
Guernsey Restaurant Recommendations
The Hook – the best meal we had on Guernsey hands down was at The Hook. In fact it was one of the best meals on our two week trip. The Hook is located right in St. Peter’s Port. Be sure to make a reservation for this popular spot. I enjoyed a lovely cod dish and my husband had the Beef Wellington.
Beef Wellington at The Hook
Crabby Jacks – Much more casual and on the west side of the island facing Vazon Bay; we stopped for a late lunch early dinner at Crabby Jacks after our low tide walk. Lots of fried fish, burgers and salads, my husband had authentic fish and chips while I really enjoyed a delicious fish pie topped with cheesy mashed potatoes.
Fish Pie at Crabby Jacks
Jersey Things to Do
St Aubin
We arrived Jersey via a very short flight from Guernsey and had two nights and two full days here. This island is bigger than Guernsey but not by much, coming in at nine miles by five miles. The main city of St. Helier is very cosmopolitan and quite beautiful. We chose to stay close to St. Helier and not rent a car. But with a car, or on a island tour bus (all were full so we couldn’t do this), you can easily see the sites of the island that includes multiple castles and forts as well as WWII tunnels.
Jersey Museum and Art Gallery
Jersey Museum and Art Gallery, Saint Helier – this small but very interesting museum in the heart of the port city is a great place to start and learn the history of this fascinating island and its people. Run by the Jersey Heritage Foundation, we particularly enjoyed a very well done film with a great historic story told through today’s residents. A must in St. Helier.
Elizabeth Castle
Elizabeth Castle – Also run by Jersey Heritage visiting Elizabeth Castle is fun and interesting. Don’t miss it. Access to the island castle just off shore is by amphibious boat, or at very low tide you can walk to the island. We enjoyed the boat ride and a self-guided tour of the Castle on a beautiful sunny day.
Portelet Bay
Saint Aubin and Portelet Bay – on our second day in Jersey the sun shone bright and we decided to do a very long walk from St. Helier to Portelet Bay. This walk took us through the tiny seaside hamlet of Saint Aubin and then up and over the hill to Portelet Bay on the other side. A total round trip on foot of eleven miles; we enjoyed ocean views, pastoral fields, cows and crops and forests. This route would be very easy to do with a car. From St. Helier to St. Aubin you can enjoy Le Petit Train, a 35 minute ride in the summer months. I highly recommend it.
Jersey Restaurant Recommendations
Dover Sole at La Taverne
La Taverne – we booked this restaurant in advance, a highly rated small space not far from our hotel. I enjoyed Dover Sole (a favorite of mine) and my husband had veal and oysters. Very good and the service was great.
Quayside – our taxi driver from the airport told us this restaurant was his favorite on the island, but highly recommended getting a reservation no matter where we planned to go as Saturday’s could be very busy. So we were happy to find online an early dinner opening. Covered outdoor seating with a view of the marina, the food was really delicious although our waitress seemed distracted. I enjoyed fish again and Arne had a ribeye steak.
How to Get Here?
Boarding the ten minute flight from Guernsey to Jersey
If you are in the United Kingdom or France flights are easy to either island. You can also take a ferry from Saint Malo, Brittany, France which is what we did leaving Jersey and going to France. The ferry was huge and it was also packed on a sunny Sunday. Many people make the trip as a day trip and turn around and go back the same day. Try to do this on a weekday instead to avoid the crowds. You will need to pass through passport control as United Kingdom is no longer in the EU.
We flew between the islands, but there is also a ferry. The flight was only slightly more expensive and took ten minutes as opposed to two hours so we decided flying was better for us due to our tight travel schedule.
A Few Other Things to Know
Very narrow roads on the island of Guernsey
Weather can be windy and rainy anytime of the year. We experienced, sun, rain, wind and fog all during our short visit. The British pound is accepted on both islands and credit cards are used everywhere. Wifi service is strong and reliable. Driving on Guernsey is not for the faint of heart but doable, Jersey roads are better. Transit and taxis are widely available on both islands.
Agriculture
Both Guernsey and Jersey are known throughout the world for the quaility dairy produced by the Guernsey and Jersey Cows. The cows and the cream are highly prized
Cows
Delicious
Additionally both islands produce cider from locally grown apples. Both alcoholic cider and non-alcoholic I had the cider several times and it was very refreshing. On the island of Jersey the grown the world famous Jersey Royal potato. We were served the potato at most of our meals and it is small, tender and very delicious.
Cider
Jersey Royal potato
Visiting the English Channel Islands Guernsey & Jersey
Thanks for reading our post this week Visiting the English Channel Islands Guernsey & Jersey. I hope you will come back next week to read about our visit to Monet’s Gardens in Giverney.
Hiking on Guernsey. Come prepared for all weather.
This island. It will always hold a very special place in my heart. I truly love it for so many reasons. Cyprus in my heart forever.
How do I love thee? Let’s count the ways…
1.)Lockdown 2020
The day before lockdown…we had no idea what was coming in March 2020
In March 2020 after fleeing lockdown in Israel we landed in Cyprus. Our thoughts at the time were that we would sit tight for two or three weeks and wait out this crazy Corona thing. Five days later, we went into total lockdown which I always describe as house arrest. We could only leave our house once a day with permission from local Cyprus authorities, which we obtained through an app on our phones. What initially was presented as a ten-day lockdown became two months for us…and even longer for the Cypriot people.
Empty Cyprus airport Spring 2020
The airport shut down with no flights in or out, and so we hunkered down for a long stay. It was March, still cool in the Mediterranean, but dry and sunny most days. All archeological sites and museums, all beaches, trails and recreational facilities were closed. As well as all shops and restaurants except for a handful of grocery stores and pharmacies.
My friend Patience who helped me stay sane during lockdown
Lockdown 2020 on Cyprus was definitely not something we had on our travel itinerary, but it became one of the most unique and memorable experiences of our life – putting Cyprus in my heart forever.
2.)Lemon Grove Villas, Argaka
Lemon Grove Villa in the middle of a citrus grove
Lucky for us, we were in an Airbnb called Lemon Grove Villas in the tiny village of Argaka. Argaka is on the far northwest corner of the island, about as far as you can get from the international airport city of Larnaca.
Lemon Grove Villas
Not only was Lemon Grove Villa comfortable and spacious, but it also had one of the absolute best hosts we have had in all of our travels. Maria and Fytos were outstanding and made such an effort to make our unexpectedly long stay, unexpectedly comfortable.
3.)We Shall Return
Lemon Grove swimming pool
When we finally left Cyprus after two months, we vowed to return – and we kept that vow, returning 26 months later this past June. We only had a week this time, but we spent the entire week back at our beloved Lemon Grove Villa, getting to see our sweet hosts Maria and Fytos. And this time, thanks to fabulous weather, enjoying the beautiful pool.
4.)Sunshine and Sand
Sandy beaches
If you have been to Greece, Cyprus feels just like that. But without the crowds or the price tag. Sunny skies, turquoise water, beautiful beaches. It’s surprising Cyprus is not one of the Greek islands, but most Cypriots consider themselves Greek and you will see the Greek flag everywhere. At least on the Greek Cypriot side (south side) of this island.
5.)Ancient History, Recent History
Aphrodite’s Rock
This island is said to be the birthplace of Aphrodite, the Greek Goddess of love. The island has been occupied by many civilizations dating back as far as far as the 12th century BC. Given its strategic position in the Mediterranean it’s no wonder so many wanted a piece of it over the millennia. Throughout the 140 mile long by 60 miles wide island you will find a fascinating array of ancient ruins and archeological sites all worth a visit.
Paphos Archeological Site (UNESCO)
More recent history has included a civil war in 1974 when Turkey invaded northern Cyprus, occupying and taking over entire cities including property and homes. Greek Cypriots fled south and Turkish Cypriots fled north, leaving everything behind. Still today Turkey has control of the northern part of the island but it is not recognized by the United Nations. It wasn’t until 2003 that a border crossing was opened. Today you can still see the sad remains of people’s homes and businesses abandoned and bullet ridden along the UN Buffer Zone.
Looking towards the former resort town of Famagusta, now a ghost town on the Turkish side of the occupied North
6.)Hiking and Running
Beautiful slot canyon hike
We love to run and hike and Cyprus offered beautiful and safe places to do both. In Argaka we ran nearly every day, both during lockdown and in our recent visit. And we also enjoyed several hikes along the ocean, in the mountains and through some glorious slot canyons.
Early morning beach run
7.)Food Glorious Food
Kleftiko one of the island’s famous dishes made with lamb
Very similar to Greek food, Cypriot food is abundant with fresh and locally grown produce. Throughout the island and especially in Argaka you will find citrus, olives, nuts, and berries growing next to wheat, barley, watermelons, zucchini and tomatoes. Honey and breads are abundant as are candies and amazing coffee. You can find local wine that is cheap and delicious and recently a surge of craft beer. It is a breadbasket of the Mediterranean. The cuisine includes a lot of fish, lamb, beef and chicken as well as yogurt, feta and amazing halloumi cheese. Oh my goodness. I was in heaven. Learn more about Cypriot foods and cooking in this post In the Cyprus Test Kitchen.
Grilled Octopus
8.) Kind and Hardworking People
Cyprus Cooking Class
And then there are the quiet and kind Cypriots. Some of the hardest working people I have ever met, yet always ready with a shy smile and a welcome.
Cyprus in My Heart Forever
Orthodox Church in Argaka
What more could anyone want in a destination? It’s inexpensive, beautiful, delicious and great weather. There is interesting history and architecture, nature and views. Each city offers a wide variety of accommodations and restaurants. If I compare it to Maui it is half the price or less, with fewer tourists and traffic. For Americans it’s a bit difficult to get to, but there are lots of direct flights from London, so that’s typically the best way to get here. But however you get here, just get here.
The UN Border crossing between Cyprus and the occupied north
I am already working on a plan to get back to Cyprus for a long extended visit in 2024. Cyprus, in my heart forever.
We were supposed to visit Malta in May 2020…well you know why we didn’t. So it was exciting to be able to add Malta back into our travel itinerary. In 2020 our plans were to spend 10 days on the island of Malta and an additional six on the island of Gozo. Our rescheduled trip however needed to be shorter, so we spent our time on the main island of Malta with a quick day trip to Gozo. I fell hard for this beautiful and ancient place. Marvelous Malta – A New Favorite.
Valletta
Two Years Later
This itinerary was pretty tight, as we attempted to resurrect our original trip we were on when the Pandamit made its nasty entrance. At that time, you might remember, we fled Israel to Cyprus but were locked down in Cyprus for two months. Eventually abandoning the remaining itinerary, which included Malta, and making our way back to the USA to wait it out. Wait it out we did, with the rest of the world, and two years later we are out here again…Marvelous Malta – A New Favorite.
Enjoying Valletta from the water
Marvelous Malta – A New Favorite
From the moment we arrived in Valletta, the fortress city on a peninsula, I knew this was my kind of place. So much history as well as pre-historic history, yet alive and so incredibly beautiful. The most surprising thing we found was it is CHEAP. By far the cheapest country we have visited in the European Union. Gotta love that!
Malta is also friendly, clean, delicious and just about everyone speaks English. English is an official language, but the local Maltese language prevails. It is an interesting mix of Arabic and Italian.
Art Installation Valletta
Where We Stayed
We stuck pretty close to Valletta, opting for an Airbnb in the historic area rather than a resort in the more cosmopolitan areas of St. Julian or Sliema. In hindsight I think with more time I would have also enjoyed a night or two inside the walled village of Mdina, and a longer more leisurely visit to Gozo Island.
There is no shortage of accommodations all over the island, which is only 17 miles long and 9 miles wide. Depending on what is important to you (history, nightlife, beaches) you will find something to match your desires.
Valletta
Nutshell History
Malta can trace it’s history back to 5200BC. I mean wow. That is crazy right? I love this kinda stuff so much and it is one of the astonishing things about Malta that caused me to fall in love with it. In recent years some incredible pre-historic ruins have been found, known as the Hypogeum. The Smithsonian Foundation claims this site to be the most significant pre-history site in the world. (Tip – only 80 people a day are allowed to visit the Hypogeum. Plan ahead for this. Unfortunately we did not get to see it.)
From the arrival of man Malta became a place everyone wanted to get their hands on, due to it’s central location in the Mediterranean. Over the centuries the island was controlled by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians and the Byzantines. Then came the Arabs, followed by the Normans and then the Knights of St. John before the Ottomans arrived. Napoleon gave it a try, but the British secured the island for 170 years. In 1974 Malta became independent.
This vast and diverse history is evident in the architecture, language, people and food. Absolutely fascinating to a history geek like me.
Daily firing of the cannon, a throwback to British occupation
Recommended Things To Do
First of all Malta is surprisingly affordable compared to most of Europe. We were astonished at how cheaply we could eat, drink, shop and be entertained. Malta uses the Euro and credit cards are accepted everywhere. A dinner with wine or beer for two could be had for around 45 Euros.
Some of our favorite things we did were;
Food Tour
As you likely know I love to take a food tour whenever I visit a new destination. I usually try to do it early in my itinerary because it is always both a history lesson and yummy. We booked our tour through Viator with Best Tours Malta and our guide Chris was not only knowledgeable about food but we learned a great deal about the history of Valletta.
We rented a car for two days to get out of Valletta and see some sites. Seeing some significant archeology sites made us thankful we made the effort. Hagar Qim is a significant pre-historic site on the island of Malta dating to 3200 BC. It is one of several UNESCO sites in the country and it is fascinating. A very well done interpretive self-guided tour is included with your admission. At the Hagar Qim site you will also see another pre-historic temple site called Mnajdra. Both sites worth your time.
There are multiple other ruins on the island of Malta and on Gozo as well. I wish we had the time to see more. We briefly visited Dingli Cliffs, not known for ruins although there are some, but known more for the spectacular views of the cliffs and the beautiful sea.
Hagar Qim
Mnajdra
Dingli Cliffs
Gozo Island
Because we were short on time, we only did a day trip to Gozo. Our original itinerary had us spending six days there with a car. I sure wish we could have done that, because a day trip did not do it justice. Partly because we were with way too many people and it just was not enough time. IF YOU ONLY HAVE A DAY, here is what I recommend. Take an ECab (Malta’s version of Uber and highly recommended over a regular taxi) to the ferry, walk on the ferry, and prearrange a PRIVATE GUIDE to meet you on the other side. This way you can gear your day to the things that are important to you; architecture, pre-history, churches and cathedrals, agriculture, salt pans and more. I’m still glad we went but if I did it again I would definitely spend the money for a private tour.
Salt Pans Gozo
Gozo
Blue Grotto and Sea Caves
On Malta’s south coast you will find the most beautiful blue water. The Blue Grotto viewpoint is definitely worth a stop (it’s on the way to Hager Qim) and with more time you can also take a boat to the Blue Grotto and the Sea Caves. We did not go in the boat but it looked really fun. It is a beautiful spot.
St. Peter’s Pool
St. Peter’s Pool is a popular swimming and sunning site of St. Peter’s Pool. Although we were the oldest people there (easily by 30 years), we had a blast!! Stunning location. Parking is tight, but there is overflow parking for busy days. On the day we visited it wasn’t terribly crowded but I understand it can get very crowded. Try to go on a weekday. So much fun and worth the effort to get there.
After our swim we continued on to the beautiful fishing village of Marsaxlok. We had a delicious lunch on the seaside.
St Peter’s Pool
St. Peter’s Pool
Marsaxlok
Mdina & Rabat
With our rental car we went to the inland walled city of Mdina, which is surrounded by the newer city of Rabat. We were really glad we arrived an hour before our 11am guided walking tour because the village was abandoned and so quiet. And boom, at 11am all the tour buses from the cruise ships arrived. Wow, suddenly it was like Disneyland! We learned a lot from our walking tour and our guide was exceptionally knowledgeable in the history of the two cities. I am so glad we did this and recommend it definitely if you visit Malta. In hindsight it would have been fun to spend a night or two inside the ancient town.
Mdina and Rabat
Mdina and Rabat
Dance Performance
On a whim we looked up what our options were to attend a live performance in Valletta. This is something we have come to enjoy in places we visit around the world. The only thing on during our short visit was a dance performance at the remarkable and historic Teatru Manoel right in old town Valletta. The performance, an interpretive dance about the life of Frida Kahlo, was incredible, but the historic theater was astonishing. We would not of visited the theater if we hadn’t decided to go to the performance so I am so glad we did.
Teatru Manoel
Marvelous Malta – A New Favorite
Sometimes I am flabbergasted at the wealth of history and beauty we discover in our travels. It never ceases to amaze me and Malta was all that and more. I am so very glad we finally made it to this fascinating island nation. I hope you can visit too. Marvelous Malta – a New Favorite.
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