Canada. It’s my next door neighbor. All my life I have taken British Columbia for granted. It’s funny how close and yet so far it seems, having only visited Victoria and Whistler. I have spent the last decade traveling ALL OVER the world, but not really considering my closest neighbor and friend, beautiful British Columbia, Canada. So summer 2025 I committed to visiting and enjoying this remarkable place. Here is my story Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia.
Oh Canada
My last visit to Canada was when we traveled across Canada pulling our pink trailer “Betty” in 2016. That was the very start of the Grand Adventure…seems like a lifetime ago. A lot has happened since then, but I have great memories of that trip and the kind people, amazing nature and interesting history along the way. That trip gave us the opportunity to visit six provinces bringing our total to eight of the thirteen. It’s a huge country, and I doubt we will ever see it’s most remote regions. But we have no excuse not to have seen more of British Columbia, less than two hours from our home in Washington State. Thus our Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia.
Part One
We broke our ten day trip into two parts; part one Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia and part two the Sunshine Coast on the mainland. So I have broken my blog posts also into two parts as well. Today I present part one Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia. We spent five days, and easily could have spent two weeks on Vancouver Island alone. We will be back. Here is what we saw.
Port Angeles Washington
We took our time driving from our home in Port Orchard Washington to Port Angeles Washington, about a two hour drive. It’s one of my favorite drives close to our home, traversing over the Hood Canal Bridge and stopping on Marrowstone Island, Chimacum (CHEM-ə-kəm) and Sequim (skwim). Because our reservation on the Black Ball Ferry was very early in the morning, we spent the night in the simple but comfortable Olympic View Inn.
Black Ball Ferry
Day Two we were up very early and in line for the ferry by 6:15am. This ferry requires an advance reservation which can be made at the Black Ball Ferry line website. Cost for car, driver and passenger was $101 plus a $12 reservation fee. It is a 90 min crossing, calm on this day but it can get rough. We some how lucked out and were the very first car off the boat, breezed through passport control and were on our way within minutes. No time in Victoria this trip, but if you haven’t visited Victoria it is a must on a first-timers Vancouver Island itinerary. At least one night and two is better.
Duncan
Instead of time in Victoria we headed directly to the small historic town of Duncan. It’s an easy drive, less than hour from the ferry terminal in Victoria.
History of Duncan
Duncan, British Columbia, has a history deeply rooted in agriculture, logging, and mining, with the Cowichan Tribes inhabiting the area for millennia.
Duncan Totems
Today, Duncan is the commercial center of the Cowichan (kow·wee·chn) Region and attracts visitors to its trendy boutiques, art and antique galleries. It is also known as the “City of Totems” and that is what attracted us to the beautiful small town. Some 80 carved totem poles depicting the historic legends of the First Nations are easy to see with a self-guided walking tour through the historic core.
Chemainus
Less than half an hour drive north from Duncan, we found ourselves in another small historic British Columbia town known as Chemainus (She-MAY-nus). I met a woman several decades ago who was from Chemainus and she told me about the Chemainus Murals. I’ve been wanting to see them ever since.
Chemainus History
Chemainus, BC, began as an unincorporated logging and seaport town in 1858, with its name derived from the Stz’uminus First Nation.
Chemainus Murals
The town transformed in the 1980s when it embraced a unique mural project to revitalize its economy after the closure of its main industry. Today, Chemainus is known as “The Little Town That Did” and “The Mural Town,” featuring over 50 outdoor murals and sculptures that depict the town’s history and culture.
We really enjoyed our self-guided mural walk, as well as a lovely lunch on a beautiful sunny BC day. After lunch we walked down to the lower town, home to the mill and shops. Chemainus is definitely worth a couple hours on your road trip.
Ladysmith
Just another 15 minutes drive north of Chemainus, we took a moment to visit the historic town of Ladysmith.
Ladysmith History
Ladysmith, British Columbia, began as Oyster Harbour, a settlement established by James Dunsmuir in 1898 to support his coal mining operations. The town was renamed Ladysmith in 1900 to commemorate the British lifting the siege of Ladysmith, South Africa, during the Second Boer War. The town was officially incorporated in 1904.
Ladysmith First Ave
The heart of this tiny town is Historic First Avenue. Worth a stroll to shop, dine and admire the historic buildings, some under renovation. We also took time to visit and stroll along the beautiful Transfer Beach park and beach.
Nanaimo
The day was growing short but we wanted to make a brief stop in Nanaimo (nuh·nai·mow), although frankly we should have stayed longer and will next time.
Nanaimo History
Nanaimo’s history is deeply rooted in its Indigenous peoples, the Snuneymuxw (snoo-NAY-muxw), and the arrival of European settlers. Initially, it was known as Colvilletown, established by the Hudson’s Bay Company around a trading post. The name Nanaimo, derived from the Snuneymuxw word “Sne-ny-mo,” meaning “a big, strong tribe,” was adopted in 1860. The city’s development was significantly influenced by the discovery of coal in the area, leading to a boom in mining and industry.
Nanaimo Bars
We came for the Nanaimo Bars. Nanaimo bars, a no-bake dessert, are named after the city of Nanaimo. The bars are believed to have originated in the 1950s, with the earliest known recipe appearing in a 1952 cookbook. While the exact origin story is debated, the bars gained significant popularity in the 1980s, particularly after a contest to find the “ultimate” Nanaimo bar recipe. After a Google search we ended up enjoying a very rich and delicious Nanaimo Bar at Red’s Bakery. Definitely worth a visit.
Qualicum Beach
After a long day with an early wake up we were happy to arrive at our spot for the night in Qualicum (kwaa·luh·km) Beach. We were pretty tired, and did not have a lot of time to see any sites in Qualicum Beach. But we got settled into a little Bed and Breakfast Oceanside Manor and then headed out for a walk along the ocean promenade. The weather was excellent and the views as well and we stopped to enjoy delicious fish and chips in the sun. On our next visit to BC I would plan a full day here as well as considering continuing north to Campbell River. We will save that for next time.
Westward Ho
Our hosts at Oceanside Manor made sure we had a delicious and hearty breakfast before saying our farewells and heading West across the island. I enjoyed this drive immensely as we took our time to enjoy the spectacular scenery of the interior of Vancouver Island on our way to Tofino..
Cathedral Grove
One of my favorite things we did on this entire trip was this hike in Cathedral Grove, also known as MacMillan Park. Less than 30 minutes from Qualicum Beach. Beware! Parking is limited. We got lucky and found a spot that allowed us to enjoy the trails that are located on both sides of the road. Technically you are not supposed to cross the road, there are no crosswalks or safe crossings. We did manage it however, and found the nature on both sides astonishing. You might consider doing the trails on the north side one day, and on your return east you could hike the south side trails.
The Cathedral Grove trails are home to some of the oldest, largest and most beautiful Douglas Firs in the world. Certainly worth a visit. The trails are flat, easy and should be manageable for most abilities. Some of the walking is done on raised boardwalks, protecting the fragile ecosystem. Does this place look familiar to you? Famed director George Lucas shot scenes for Star Wars VI: Return of the Jedi here, using the larger-than-life trees as the backdrop for the Ewoks home planet of Endor. Don’t miss this stunning forest.
Hole in the Wall
Not easy to find, or to park. About 20 minutes west of Cathedral Grove you will come to Port Alberni, home of Hole in the Wall. We turned around at the Coombs Candy Store and parked back up Highway 4 about 100 yards, just along the busy highway. Didn’t feel very safe, but there were other cars parked there too. The hike is short and pretty easy along logging roads. I hear it can be mucky in the winter but in the summer dry and nice. If you are inclined, swimming at Hole in the Wall is popular, but we did not. The hole was once a shortcut for the city’s waterline and today is a picturesque waterfall on Vancouver Island.
Lake Kennedy
Continuing on Hwy 4 west we found ourselves hugging the shores of beautiful Kennedy lake, which is the largest lake on the island with a surface area of 6,475 hectares (16,000 acres), according to Wikipedia. It has an irregular shape with two distinct basins, the Main Arm and the Clayoquot (klah-WOK-wət) Arm, connected by a narrow channel. There are several spots to stop and enjoy views of the lake.
Ucluelet
Prior to checking into our hotel in Tofino, we made a brief stop in the town of Ucluelet (you-KLEE-let), about 30 minutes south of Tofino. Ucluelet is a popular tourism destination for kayaking, surfing and family fun on the beach. It has a rich history as one of the oldest settlements on Vancouver Island. The name derives from the Nuu-chah-nulth phrase “Yu-clutl-ahts,” meaning “people with a good landing place for canoes”. The Yuułuʔiłʔatḥ First Nation, who have lived in the area for thousands of years, call it “Ucluelet,” which translates to “people of the safe harbour”.
We took some time to walk the very easy and scenic Lighthouse Loop section of the Wild Pacific Trail along a beautiful bluff overlooking the ocean. It was quite busy on a sunny Sunday but easy to see why it was so popular. A great walk with kids and there is also a small museum. Definitely worth a few hours or even an overnight in Ucluelet.
Tofino
It was a long but lovely day in and out of the car and we were happy to arrive at our destination in Tofino (tuh·fee·now). We had booked a room at the stunning Middle Beach Lodge and were excited to find our room had a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean, with a small deck to sit and enjoy it. Middle Beach Lodge has a large variety of room choices, from small two person rooms like ours to large cabins and their new “tree house” rooms both which accommodate more people. I really loved this place and would like to come back with my adult children for a longer stay. Our room with view was only $190 Canadian per night ($140 USD) with breakfast included.
On arrival we just relaxed, walked the property and went on a short hike to the long and beautiful Mackenzie Beach, before dinner. Middle Beach Lodge offers a nightly prix fixe dinner for guests. We had pre-booked it for our first night. It was outstanding, included a welcome glass of wine, crab cake appetizers, serve yourself salad and bread, followed by the main course of locally caught ling cod. Dessert too. Price was $60 Canadian (44 USD), and totally worth the price.
Tofino Day Two
After an incredible breakfast included with our room at the Middle Beach Lodge we headed out to hike the forested bluff Tonquin trail into the town of Tofino. It’s an easy 2 mile trail with gorgeous views. Definitely worth it instead of driving. We spent several hours exploring the small town, visiting shops and historic sites and reveling in the gorgeous weather before retracing our steps on the bluff trail back to the lodge.
After a shower we drove back into town. Our first stop was Tofino Brewing Company, a popular spot for locals and visitors. We really enjoyed a cold brew and the vibe of the industrial taproom.
We had pre-booked dinner at one of Tofino’s highest rated restaurants, The Wolf in the Fog. We booked an early spot at 5:15, and were amazed how fast it filled by 5:30. I highly recommend you get a reservation. An inventive and local menu was delicious and the prices were surprisingly good for a semi-fine dining experience.
Final Tofino Day
It’s our last day in Tofino and the weather has taken a turn to gray. No worries, we are PNW people! Today we had pre-booked a water taxi (open air) out to Meares Island to do a rugged hike.
Tofino Water Taxi (round trip $40 CAD / $29 USD) met us and a handful of other people on the First Street Dock for the ten minute ride across the bay to Meares. Here we found the Big Tree Trail….a popular but difficult walk through the woods.
The BigTree Trail is not long, but it is very rough with roots and rocks, mud and includes rough hewn cedar plank raised boardwalk through much of the trail. It took us two hours to go three miles. BUT, if you are up to this hike, you will enjoy some of the most incredible old growth cedar trees I have seen anywhere in my life. Other plant life, birds too. And the boat ride both directions gives you a wonderful view back to Tofino and of the surrounding islands.
Final Evening
Back to our lodge via the Tonquin trail, where we showered and got ready for our final evening in Tofino. First stop happy hour at Middle Beach Lodge, enjoying a gin and tonic and the gorgeous views. Happy Hour is every evening at Middle Beach Lodge from 4-7. Next we headed back into town in the car to dinner at Shelter Restaurant. This restaurant is very popular with visitors and locals for its delicious local menu as well as water view. I really enjoyed the fresh mussels. Highly recommend.
Reverse Gears to Comox
I could easily have spent a few more days in Tofino, and at the wonderful Middle Beach Lodge. But alas our time was over. We began the trek back east across the island where we would catch the ferry to the mainland at Comox. Our ferry reservation was at 3:00pm, so we enjoyed the drive, which took about 3.5 hours.
More to See
There is much more on the upper island to see, but it was time to move on to our second part of our trip, the Sunshine Coast. I guess we will need another Vancouver road trip soon. Meanwhile, come back next week for more about our time on British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast.
Thanks for reading my post Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia. I hope you can use this post as a tool for your own Vancouver Island road trip. Watch for Part Two of our British Columbia Road Trip on the Sunshine Coast. Be sure and see last week’s post Tracking Trolls in the Pacific Northwest. We love it when you share, pin, comment and engage with our blog posts. Thank you.
