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Discover Bordeaux France

It’s More Than Just Wine

Although I was able to visit Bordeaux for a long leisurely stay, you can really enjoy this city with only a few days. Bordeaux has a surprising food scene (read last week’s blog post Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City), as well as culture, arts, nature and history. It is still relatively under the radar as far as destinations in France, and I fell completely in love with it. Come with me to Discover Bordeaux France.

From the Cite du Vin viewing the Pont Jacques Chaban Delmas Bridge through my wine

Walkable

One of the best things about this incredible city is how walkable it is. There is a tram, inexpensive and convenient, but during our month long stay we walked and walked. Our Airbnb was exactly one mile to the iconic Saint Andre and the start of the old city. Bordeaux’s historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is full of marvelous limestone architecture dating back through the centuries.

At Saint Andre Square
Cailhau Gate entrance to Old Town Bordeaux

Though Neanderthal findings of the region date back 20,000 years, the city itself was founded in the 12th century. The region has a remarkable history under French and English rule. Read about it here.

When visiting any new city, I always advise you do a walking tour – especially if you have a short amount of time. A walking tour will orient you, give you great historic insight as well as recommendations on how to spend your time. We loved our tour with Free Bordeaux Walking Tours.

Looking at historic Bordeaux from across the Garonne

We also loved our Food and Wine Tour with Bordeaux Bites. I highly recommend this tour for getting an overview of the foods of Bordeaux and France. Our guide Alex was a wealth of information and we loved all the tasty treats and wine we had on our tour. Read my post from last week all about the foods of the city; Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

Eat all the cheese!
Alex from Bordeaux Bites was an amazing guide

The River

The Garonne is the focus of Bordeaux both today and historically. The river is where wine was transported for centuries, and still today the port is active for river cruises, tour boats and pleasure boats. Because Bordeaux is situated just 100km from the sea, the Garonne River has a surprising tidal change, and due to that tidal change, and the clay river floor, the water appears to be brown. This is not pollution, and locals like to refer to it as caramel.

Pont de Pierre built in 1860 was the first bridge to cross the Garonne River at Bordeaux

We enjoyed an afternoon boat ride with Yacht Bordeaux which we booked through Get Your Guide. It was informative and beautiful. From the water it’s a expansive view back to the city, and our guide who spoke both in French and English delighted us with tidbits of the city.

Boat Tours are offered by many lines
We enjoyed learning about the history and the river on our boat tour

Be sure to spend some time along the Garonne promenade area, a literal highway for cyclists and pedestrians. Walk and enjoy seeing the river-cruise boats in port, the historic view of the UNESCO Old City, or dine at one of the many restaurants near the Cite du Vin. It’s a lovely and popular place with both visitors and locals.

Miroir d’eau is one of the beautiful attractions along the Garonne promenade

Wine (duh)

Bordeaux lives and breathes wine. It is what truly defines both the city and the region. Bordeaux wine production began sometime after 43 AD, during the Roman occupation of Gaul, when the Romans established vineyards to cultivate wine for the soldiers. However, it is only in 71 AD that Pliny the Elder recorded the first real evidence of vineyards in Bordeaux. Wines of Bordeaux are the second oldest in France, with Provence taking the lead.

Wine
Wine
Oh and MORE wine.

Although white wine is certainly available, Bordeaux IS red wine. The reds are medium- to full-bodied with bold aromas of black currant, plums and an earthiness like smelling wet soil or pencil lead. Depending on the quality, vintage and what region within Bordeaux the wine is from, fruit flavors range from more tart fruit to sweeter ripe fruit.

When Thomas Jefferson was in France (before he was President) his love of Bordeaux wines helped bring attention to the region and its fine wine.

Enjoying a glass of wine from on top the Cite du Vin

New to Wine? Pas de Soucis (do not worry)

In next week’s blog post I’ll talk about visiting vineyards and villages outside of the city, possible with a tour or on your own. For a one day tour I recommend Olala tours. Consider the full day tour of Saint Emilion and Medoc. But if you have limited time here are my wine suggestions;

It’s easy to learn about wine in Bordeaux. It’s what they do.

La Cite de Vin – visit Bordeaux’s wine museum, in a unique but somewhat controversial architectural building on the river Garonne. City of Wine is a bit expensive ($35 Euro) but if you want to learn about history of the region, wine and also enjoy some wine, be sure and add this to your visit.

Cite du Vin
Learning about the different aromas of wine

Wine Shops – Bordeaux is home to dozens of wine shops, many also serving as tasting rooms. Everywhere we visited the staff was helpful, unpretentious and spoke English. Our favorite was L’Indentant. Even if you don’t plan to buy wine, you must visit L’Indentant to see the spiral wine staircase. Stunning.

Beautiful Bar a Vin

Wine Bars – there are nearly as many wine bars in Bordeaux as Wine shops…sometime they are combined. If you just want to try a glass or two with some nibbles, a wine bar is a great option. The absolute best wine bar in Bordeaux is Bar a Vin. It is affordable, service is helpful and it is in a beautiful space.

Be sure to visit L’Intendant Grand Bordeaux

Wine Tasting – many, many options in the city for tasting, but if you want something really special sign up to visit La Pied a Terre. This humble shop near the Opera House is run by two enthusiastic and knowledgeable brothers. During the two-hour class we learned so much great information about local and world wines, tasted three wines and had a lot of fun. Highly recommend.

Wine Class at La Pied a Terre
La Pied a Terre

Cathedrals

Bordeaux is home to many beautiful cathedrals. As in most European cities, cathedrals are open to visitors all day, even during services. We are not Catholic, but we always make a point to step into any cathedral or basilica when traveling. And since Bordeaux is so walkable, we found ourselves in some beautiful churches. GPS My City has a Cathedral walking tour I recommend, as well as an architecture tour you should try.

Saint Andre was originally constructed in the eleventh century
Saint Michel Basilica was built in the 14th century

Arts and Culture

Bordeaux is home to the beautiful Grand Theatre de Opera with many performances. We make a point in many cities to visit the historic theaters when possible, and we did here. Our visit was for a modern dance performance which was excellent. We really enjoyed seeing the beautiful historic architecture of this building built in 1780.

Art on the Opera Square
Grand Theatre
Beautiful Bordeaux Opera House Grand Theater

If you have time, Bordeaux has many art museums, history museums and maritime museums. See the list here.

Nature

If you have enough time to take a day and get out into nature close to the city, we have two recommendations for you. On the right bank of the Garonne, a paved trail runs the entire way from Saint Jean bridge to Jacques Chaban-Delmas bridge, with beautiful trees, flowers and views back across the river to the historic old town. It’s a flat, easy and beautiful walk.

Many things to admire on a walk on the right side of the river

Even better, take the C tram to Parc des Expositions (the end of the line), then walk about a kilometer to Reserve Ecologique des Barails. We spent half a day here enjoying the beautiful spring blooms and bird watching. We had a picnic and nearly had the entire park to ourselves.

Loved the quiet Reserve Ecologique des Barails

Markets

Everyday somewhere in the city is a market. Near Saint Andre, the center of the old town, a market seems to happen everyday. We perused a book market, a vintage market and a fresh produce and cheese market.

On Thursday and Sunday along the Garonne promenade a really nice market brings fish mongers, meat vendors, produce and cheese vendors to the people. This is a popular place to eat oysters and drink wine with friends, especially on Sunday.

Marche de Capucins is the main market in Bordeaux, and it lies on the far south end of the old city, just past the beautiful Saint Michel Basilica. If you go, be sure to visit in the morning to see the local producers at work. It’s also a great place to grab lunch.

Markets everywhere
Oysters at Marche de Capucins

Bon Appetit

I’ll mention again my blog post from last week Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City – a few amazing suggestions. If you have time and want to delve deeper into the cuisine of the region, book a cooking class with Chef Daniel and Erica at The Gastronome Bordeaux. When I return to Bordeaux (and I will) I want to take their immersive class. You will learn a lot from David and Erica.

Gastronome Bordeaux

Discover Bordeaux France

Dare I say I liked it more than Paris? It’s less expensive, less crowded and unpretentious – all things we love. The food, wine, history, shopping and people are amazing. I am so glad to Discover Bordeaux France. I think I could live here. Get beautiful Bordeaux on your travel list soon – before others Discover Bordeaux France.

Bordeaux is lovely in the spring

Come back next week for my post on Day Trips from Bordeaux France.

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