Our two month visit to French Polynesia is now into it’s fifth week, and we recently hopped over to Bora Bora for five days. Despite how much we are loving living on the island of Mo’orea, we felt we needed to see what the fuss is all about on Bora Bora. But we travel on a pretty strict budget, so we approached this excursion in a thrifty way. Here are our Bora Bora on a Budget recommendations.
Bora Bora
Why We Travel Budget Friendly
Because we have designed a life for ourselves that includes long-term travel, staying on budget is critical. The only way we can sustain long term travel on our retired income is to travel inexpensively. Although it looks attractive to spend a night in a $1200 over the water bungalow, we know through experience and research, we can spend twenty nights in our Airbnb on Mo’orea for the same price.
Bora Bora
To some people, a once in a life time visit to an over the water bungalow might be a dream come true, but I would like to convince more people to recognize how traveling in a budget friendly way will give you deep, authentic and meaningful travel experiences. I am living proof of that.
So, if your goal is that Instagram selfie on an over priced over the water bungalow, then this blog is not for you. Otherwise, please read on…
When to Travel
We always try to travel to popular destinations in the low or shoulder season. Our two months in French Polynesia is the low season, also called the rainy season. Although it poured rain for the first four days we were here in mid-January, the weather has been great ever since.
Great weather
This is also one of the reasons we love Hawaii in September and October; no crowds, great rates and good weather. Off peak travel is the way to go when you are on a budget.
Where to Stay
We researched, for purposes of this blog, costs at a few of the over the water bungalows on Bora Bora. They range from $800 to more than $2000 a night, depending on the resort, the season and the location.
Bora Bora has a nice selection of Airbnbs under $200, and if you stay long term you can even find some closer to $100.
Hotel Royal Bora Bora
We spent four nights at the Royal Bora Bora, a really nice and comfortable hotel in the Matira Beach area on the south part of the main island. We paid $180 per night (off peak) for this property that included a fantastic private beach, pool and breakfast included. Our room was big and clean and comfortable with a nice lanai that overlooked a garden. And the staff was fantastic. We highly recommend this property, which was also within walking distance to a grocery store and four restaurants.
Omelet for breakfast at Royal Bora Bora
Things to Do
On Land
Touring the island by land requires a vehicle of some kind. Here are some options for your consideration as you think about Bora Bora on a Budget;
Bike – our choice. For $17 per person we rented bikes from our hotel and spent half a day riding.
Cycling on Bora Bora
On Sea
Getting wet is one of the top things visitors to Bora Bora like to do. Here are some options so you can compare costs;
Whale Watching (seasonal)$200
Full Day Snorkle with Lunch $140
Rent Your Own Boat – multiple options of boats and prices starting at $180 for half day
Sunset Sail $300
Snorkle at Public Beach with your own gear – our choice. We brought our snorkel set with us that we purchased on Mo’orea for $60 and we have already gotten our money’s worth.
Snorkling at the public beach
And Way Up High
Our view from Air Tahiti as we left Mo’orea
If you want to see it from above…well if you flew here on Air Tahiti, which you probably did, you have already had the best point of view. But for your consideration, here are a few more;
Hike to the top of the mountain – our choice. There are several hikes on the island, and depending where you are staying many are accessible from resorts and hotels. We enjoyed our hike and it was free!
On the mountain top
Things to Eat
To save money, Airbnb is a great option for the ability to cook your own meals. There are only a handful of grocery stores on the island, the biggest on is a Super U in Vaitape. Other ways to eat on a budget include;
Hotel with Breakfast included – our choice. The Hotel Royal Bora Bora offered an incredible full breakfast every morning included in our room. It kept us full throughout the day and then we went out to dinner in the evening.
Take Out food from Grocery and Gas Station
“Snack” which is French Polynesia Fast Food
We had one delicious dinner out
And a couple less expensive options.
Bora Bora on a Budget
Before visiting the beautiful Polynesian islands take some time to consider what is the most important for you, and create a budget to make it happen. Whatever your budget is, Bora Bora is available to you, with a little pre-planning and prioritizing. Bora Bora on a Budget – enjoy the beautiful South Pacific.
Stingray
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Oh boy this was a good one. Like last week’s review about Hell of a Book, this week we look at another book about a book, but this time the suspense is gonna kill you. Here is my book review The Plot by Jean Hanff Korelitz.
Jacob Bonner was a promising young author when he published his first book…but since then nothing. His agent has booted him and he is demoralized, teaching and trying to maintain some kind of self-respect.
As a teacher in an annual symposium for up and coming writers, Jacob meets arrogant Evan Parker. Parker immediately tells Bonner he doesn’t need his help writing his book. He is only in the program to find an agent. Bonner dismisses the pompous would be author, until he hears the plot.
It’s a doozy and Bonner knows this self-important young man will go on to make millions…all while Bonner continues to flail away trying to write his next novel.
But Parker never writes the book…why not? When Bonner learns Parker has died tragically, Bonner steals the plot and writes the novel of all novels, becoming a best selling author, rich and famous.
Until Bonner receives an email with one sentence “You are a thief”. And that’s all it takes for Bonner’s world to begin to unravel.
This book has so many twists and turns you will stay up all night turning page after page. A bombshell twist will make you go “Wait. What?” as you try to figure out The Plot and who is out to get who? If you loved Gone Girl, The Plot is right up your alley.
Thank you for reading my Book Review The Plot by Jean Hanff Korelitz.
*****Five stars for The Plot by Jean Hanff Korelitz
In it’s core this book is about being Black in America. The remarkable story is told through the eyes of a small child named Soot, an award winning author whose name we never learn and an imaginary child called The Kid. This is the story of being Black in America. Here is my book review Hell of a Book – A Novel by Jason Mott.
Beautifully written to capture the reader from the very first page. We follow what appears to be two different story lines about two different people; a small child much loved and protected by his parents and an author on a book tour of his popular new novel.
Both characters are black. Both are American. Where is this story going. Is it about a book? Or is it about a child?
Mott builds the plot as these two stories converge and the reader tries to keep them separate but finds it impossible to. We never completely know if they are separate stories or one? What we do know is this book eloquently and in a very unique way is a story about family, love and success. But then we see it’s also about the reckoning in America with Black Lives Matter, police shootings and tragedy.
Someone will die. Who?
Thank you for reading my Book Review Hell of a Book – A Novel by Jason Mott
****Four Stars for Hell of a Book – A Novel by Jason Mott
We are loving our long visit to the gorgeous island of Mo’orea in French Polynesia where we are living for two months. As usual we are eating our way through this tropical culture and enjoying every morsel. It’s an eclectic collection of cultures and ingredients, so today we will attempt to pull together our impressions of The Flavors of French Polynesia, and specifically of Mo’orea.
Poisson Cru is the national dish
History
The people known as Polynesians migrated to the Society Islands as long ago as 500 BC from as far away as Malaysia. These same people, who are known to be exceptional navigators, populated the south Pacific islands from Hawaii to Samoa and also New Zealand.
On these voyages the Polynesians had bananas and coconut, as well as taro, yams, plantain, breadfruit and sugarcane. It is thought they also brought pigs, dogs and chickens. They carried with them what would become the flavors of French Polynesia.
Polynesian Navigators (Wikipedia)
The Portuguese explorer Magellan sailed through this area in 1521 and the Dutch in the early 1700’s. But the first European to land on Tahiti was a British Explorer named Samuel Wallis who arrived in 1767 and claimed the island for Great Britain, despite the fact that there was already a monarchy ruling Tahiti.
Shortly after Louis-Antoine de Bougainville arrived and claimed it for France. Tahiti became a French Protectorate in 1840 and in 1880 a French Colony when King Pomare V of Tahiti accepted annexation.
Today it is known as a collectivity of France, comprising over 100 islands in the South Pacific. It holds more autonomy than most French possessions and has a President and Assembly.
French Influence
Our food exploration on the island of Mo’orea turns up a lot of French influence in the cuisine. Despite the fact less than 9% of the population claims to be French, it is a big influence in the cuisine. In the grocery stores available for purchase are beautiful terrines, foie gras and cheeses as well as bread. Lots of French bread.
Foie Gras (Canva)
There are several French Restaurants on the island. We enjoyed a fabulous meal at the Mo’orea Beach Cafe and hope to visit another French Restaurant on the island in the weeks ahead.
We have visited many nations with a history of French occupation. The cuisine in many of these still reflects the French influence. Everything from Bahn Mi in Vietnam to the Burkina Faso street food of omelet in a baguette.
Chinese Influence
In the 1860’s the French brought Chinese laborers to the Pacific islands to work in the sugar cane fields. With them of course came their cuisine and food influences. Today the population is made up of about 10% ethnic Chinese.
One food we had was a strange but delicious combination of French and Chinese when we were served Chop Suey noodles inside a French Baguette.
Chop Suey Sandwich
Bao Buns, dumplings and many fried Chinese Foods are popular, especially on Sunday mornings which is always family day.
This week is also the start of the Lunar New Year and there are some local celebrations. In honor we did a favorite Chinese dish at our Airbnb with local Tahitian Shrimp and shared it on our YouTube channel. Check it out here Kung Pao Shrimp,
I’ve Got a Lovely Bunch of Coconuts
Coconuts are a staple here on the island and islanders use every part, both historically and today. The amazing coconut has water, milk, meat as well as strong fiber for cloth and rope. Coconut sugar, coconut flour, coconut oil (known as Copra Oil) all are part of the culture. And the shell becomes a cup or a bowl. It’s a multipurpose and delicious food.
Coconut
Beyond coconut the island weather creates a thriving environment for tropical fruits of many kinds. We have talked in past blog posts about the abundance of mango and banana around the world, and here on Mo’orea is no different. Also available and commercially produced are the sweetest little pineapples. Everywhere you look there are papaya, passion fruit, limes, breadfruit and plantain. Sometimes we can find starfruit, avocado, custard apple and guava.
Fresh Fruit
This abundance of fruit makes it’s way into many local restaurants as well as into our morning breakfast bowl with yogurt.
Agriculture
The island of Mo’orea has both an Agriculture High School and College. Though pineapple is grown commercially it is not exported. Sugar cane is no longer a cash crop, but due to the resurgence of Rum it is being reinstated. Mo’orea has some commercial production of vanilla.
Rum Tasting
Tahitian Vanilla
Today Tahiti exports coconut oil and pearls, with pearls making up the largest export by far and is second in economic impact to the nation to tourism.
Teach a Man to Fish…
Given it’s an island, fish is of course a staple protein. We have been astonished by the inexpensive and delicious red and white ahi. Ahi is served everywhere and is usually the fish enjoyed in the national dish of Tahiti called Poisson Cru. We have eaten Poisson Cru several times now, and have made it ourselves too. Mixing the island favorites of fish, lime and coconut milk with some veg it’s absolutely delicious and served everywhere.
Fresh Ahi
Originally however, Poisson Cru was made with reef fish. Reef fish is still a staple and local fisherman, in small skiff or kayaks fish the reefs every morning for Dorado, Parrot Fish and other small fish that live in the coral. We purchased some small fish right in our front yard and enjoyed cooking them.
Today’s catch
Fresh Dorado with herbs
Sport fishing is also popular here for Big Eye, Wahoo, Marlin and more.
Mo’orea is home to a shrimp farm, producing some of the best shrimp I have ever eaten. I was surprised to find warm water shrimp this tasty. We used the local shrimp for our Kung Pao Shrimp recipe (see above).
Comfort Foods and Carbs
I try to stay away from bread and sweets most of the time, but both are very popular in the daily diet of locals. One such food is Firi Firi, a local donut. Firi Firi is available in road side stands around the island, usually on Sunday morning when families gather. Personally I thought the coconut sugar fried dough was too greasy.
Firi Firi
Something I did really like was a coconut bread we had from the Chinese take out. It was wonderful and is a very popular local treat. On Sundays the Chinese take out is very busy as locals gather their favorites from bao buns to deep fried pork and sweets for family time.
Coconut Bread
Speaking of bread, the French Polynesia government subsidizes baguettes. Which means they are incredibly cheap and abundantly available six days a week, hot from the oven at a cost of 57 cents (USD). We were told this is to make sure everyone can at least afford bread. And boy do the locals eat up those cheap baguettes.
Baguette
At the Polynesian Tiki Village Show we attended, our dinner included the local comfort food of Pua’a, a suckling pig cooked underground. Nearly identical to way it’s done in Hawaii. Also in the same pit was cooked breadfruit, coconut bread and plantains.
Oven for the Pua’a
Pua’a
Street Food Tour
One of the first things we did during our first week in Mo’orea was spend a day with Tahiti Food Tours on a Mo’orea Tama’a Street Food Tour. I love doing these kinds of exploratory tours, to really kick start some knowledge about local cuisine. Our guide Heimata was fabulous and we tasted many different local street foods and the wide variety of different types of outdoor places locals go (see more below about that). Heimata, born on Mo’orea, was the perfect guide to show us the ropes. Some of my favorite things were the local mango sprinkled with plum powder, grilled beef heart, Chinese dumpling, Poisson Cru and homemade ice cream. Our tour also included a stop at the local rum distillery and juice factory.
Mango with Plum Powder
Chinese Dumplings
Local Cooking Class
Heimata also turned us on to the Food and Cook Lab, an organic and locally sourced cooking experience here on Mo’orea. We spent a day with Audrey and Stevenson as well as two American women and a man from France at their beautiful and sustainable kitchens. The class we took was all about using locally sourced foods to make some of the traditional Tahitian dishes. We went out into the garden and dug up manioc root and made manioc chips. They were so delicious. We cooked breadfruit over an open flame and then made amazing Poisson Cru. They taught us to make coconut bread, steamed inside hibiscus leaves. And we also made pumpkin and plantain po’a, which was baked inside banana leaf and is like a pudding. What an amazing experience we had. I liked it so much I have registered for another class coming up to learn about fish!
Wrapping the Po’e
Manioc Chips
These experiences above also opened our eyes to some of the different kinds of food and dining establishments available on the island. We learned about several different categories of dining;
Snack Shops
Called Snacks locally, these are usually take out areas of restaurants, or very small roadside restaurants. On our food tour we visited a couple. My favorite was Snack Rotui right on the water at the head of Cooks Bay (often called First Bay). Snack Rotui is one of the oldest businesses on the island. The food is prepared across the street in a small kitchen and brought over to the road side “snack” by bicycle. Serving a variety of local specialties from quenelles to egg rolls and fish to chicken. Inexpensive and super yummy. We plan to return.
Snack Rotui
On another day we visited another Snack that sold mostly juice, smoothies and homemade jams. I bought some pineapple mint jam which I used on chicken and it was delicious.
Smothies at a Snack
Food Trucks
Known as Roulotte, a French word that describes its mobility, Roulotte’s are everywhere. Not necessarily always “trucks” like we see in the USA, more often trailers. Some of the trailers are set up more permanent with attached covered seating, while others come and go. We noticed Roulottes selling noodles, crepes, whole chicken, pork, steak frits, grilled fish, tacos, and even churros. Our favorite is Kaylakea Moz Food right next door to the Mahana Resort. At Moz we had one grilled tuna and one tuna tartar and both were outstanding. So far the best meal we have enjoyed at this darling little Roulotte and much less expensive than a traditional restaurant.
Kaylakea Moz Food Truck
Grilled Tuna
Tuna Tartar
Fruit Lady
For lack of a better name we call these small ma and pa roadside tables the Fruit Lady. Usually set up in front of someone’s home, these are likely unlicensed operators selling locally sourced fruit and veg and sometimes Firi Firi. We are trying to buy all our fruit and veg from these vendors and support local as much as we can.
Fruits and Veg
at the fruit lady stand
Some of the vendors are at the same spot everyday, while others come and go, particularly the fish vendors who sell out of the back of their car when they have a catch. We have also seen vendors selling Mape, which is a local chestnut and very popular. At one fruit lady stand they also sell lovely leis and flower head pieces.
Traditional Restaurants
Of course there are traditional restaurants too, but they seem less frequent. All the resorts have traditional restaurants and there are several beach side ones as well. Because many business close between mid January and mid February, we are holding out to visit a few on our list. We did have an exceptional (but also expensive) French lunch at Mo’orea Beach Cafe on one of our first days. I had one of the best pieces of fish I have every had (Dover sole) cooked to perfection. The service and view was exceptional too.
Mo’orea Beach Cafe
The Flavors of French Polynesia
We have been on the island of Mo’orea now for three weeks and we have five weeks to go. So we still have lots of time to explore more of the flavors of French Polynesia. Next week we are flying over to Bora Bora for several days. I don’t expect the food to be different, but since we will be staying in a hotel and not in an Airbnb we will be eating out more. So I’ll be in search of the flavors of French Polynesia.
No blog next Friday but I’ll tell you all about Bora Bora the following week.
Thank you for joining me today to learn about the flavors of French Polynesia. We love it when you pin and share our blog. Thank you. Mauruuru!
This book is more than 25 years old…but I had never read it. I’m so glad I now have, it’s a very special story about a special girl. Here is my book review Stones From the River by Ursula Hegi.
Trudi Montag is a dwarf, or in her native country of Germany a zwerg. Trudi grows up in a small German town, where most people accept her differences. But as Trudi matures life’s hard lessons bring Trudi into womanhood strong and special.
Trudi’s mother dies when Trudi is just four. Although at the time, Trudi doesn’t understand the loss, she will learn in the years ahead about the mental illness that plagued her mother. Despite the loss Trudi is raised by her father and the village women who take her under their wing.
But Germany in the 1940’s rears it’s ugly head and Trudi will need to learn to live through the atrocities of World War II, the loss of nearly everyone she loves, and the death of her innocence. Despite her own physical differences, Trudi learns to be greater in her mind. She is intelligent and creative and she will risk her own safety to save Jews in peril during the Nazi era.
Trudi learns to use her ears to know everything going on in the village, and with this information she becomes an unlikely leader during a time where she can’t help question her country, her people and humanity.
I’m sorry I waited so long to read this book. I enjoyed this character and this book very much. Thank you for reading my book review Stones From the River by Ursula Hegi.
*****Five Stars for Stones From the River
My current read is Hell of a Book by Jason Mott
My Book Review The Promise by Damon Galgut is trending well on Pinterest this week See it here.
I was trying to write a blog about the local food for this week, but oh my goodness there is so much excellent food and I am still experimenting and eating my way through! So, instead I will wait and have a foodie post next week. I should be ready by then so be sure not to miss it – the flavors of French Polynesia are wonderful. Meanwhile, this week, we have been happily exploring and settling into our long stay on this remarkable island. And so I give you Mo’orea Musings – French Polynesia Week Two.
Sunrise
Weather
Beach time
Week two provided us exactly the weather we had expected when planning this trip. No more monsoons! Just showers now and then with lots and lots of sunshine in between. We are very happy about all of that. We know we will have more rain, but Mo’orea Musings – French Polynesia Week Two has provided us many opportunities to be active and explore in the warm (and humid) temperatures. We are now into a regular running and hiking schedule. No golf though, as we left our clubs at home this time.
Food and Culture
Tahitian Art
Week Two we discovered so much about the local food and culture and this is why it needs its own entire blog post. The local influence of French and Chinese to the Polynesian foods has created a wonderful and delicious as well as eclectic cuisine. I’ll tell you more next week. Meanwhile, the local people are incredibly friendly and helpful. On more than one occasion we have had locals drop what they were doing to help us find our way or interpret for us. They are kind and sweet and make us feel very welcome.
Polynesia show
Life is pretty simple on Mo’orea. People live in simple homes and live simple lives. I’m sure on Tahiti it’s a bit more citified…but here it’s very laid back and slow.
Beautiful tropical fruit
The culture of these islands is influenced by many factors. The Polynesian people, known as great navigators, migrated to these islands from all over Southeast Asia starting in 500BC. They managed to govern themselves fine, but the French arrived in the 1600’s and took over. C’est le vie. Today French is the official language but English is spoken by many and the native language of Tahitian is spoken by many. There are still about 2 million people who claim Polynesian ethnicity.
This week we took a food tour, a cooking class, ate in a couple of restaurants and went to a Polynesian cultural show and dinner. All of these experiences will get pulled into next week’s post.
Geography
Geography
Mo’orea is an ancient volcanic island, about ten miles from its larger sister of Tahiti. This beautiful and lush island is very reminiscent of the Hawaiian island of Kauai. Kauai is estimated to be about 5 million years old while Mo’orea is closer to 2 million years old. The green mountains rise dramatically out of the incredible turquoise water with spires and peaks and craggy rocks jutting here and there. This makes for difficult but beautiful hiking options.
Lagoon kayaking
The coral reef that surrounds the island was described by Darwin as like a picture frame and helped him solidify his theory about atolls. The coral was originally part of the island’s lava flow. Over the millennia it pushed it way out to ring the island and the coral thrived in the environment. It makes a beautiful lagoon around the island and provides safe snorkeling, paddling and swimming opportunities as well as a wonderful home for sea life.
Pacific Rim
On top of Magic Mountain
Although Mo’orea is not an active volcano, the recent volcanic explosion and ensuing tsunami in Tonga (1200 miles west) reminds us how our planet is in constant evolution. Following the tsunami we went in search of information regarding the local tsunami procedures and warning systems here on Mo’orea and learned where we are to go in such an emergency. We feel prepared.
Negatives
There are however a few negatives, but they are hardly enough to mention. But here they are anyway;
Dogs – like many places we have traveled around the world there are ALOT of feral dogs and clearly there is no spay-neuter program in place. It’s sad to see the condition of many of these animals.
Speed – people drive REALLY fast on the two lane road that rings the island and often pass. Yikes. However, over the past couple of years a bike lane has been added on both sides of the ring road all the way around the island. This gives me a safe running lane, although staying alert with the speeding cars is important. Many people use bikes to get around an Motos too, but the bike lane is a nice addition for all of us.
Mosquitos – not the worst place I have been for bug bites (Seychelles Islands wins that award) but the mosquitos have been pretty annoying. Hopefully now that the sun is back, the mosquitoes will go!
Mo’orea Musings – French Polynesia Week Two
High above the lagoon
We are relaxed and enjoying our new little island life. I promise next week we will have lot of foodie information to share! So I hope you will check back! Merci!
Last year I read and loved Taylor Jenkins Reid’s novel Daisy Jones and the Six. Expecting another great story, I looked forward to her new novel Malibu Rising. Here is my book review Malibu Rising by Taylor Jenkins Reid.
It’s the 1980’s, the decade of excess throughout the United States but especially in the posh, affluent, drug & sex, see & be seen community of Malibu California. How can anything possibly go wrong?
This story follows the four Riva children during a tumultuous 24 hours when they throw their annual end of the summer party. An event that anyone who is anyone wants to be at – except for the Riva children themselves. Jenkins Reid weaves a tale of these four siblings, their troubled mother and their rock star father and how their collective and individual stories brings them to this night. A night that will go up in flames.
Nina Riva, supermodel and surfer whose perseverance and dedication saved her siblings from foster care and despair. Professional Surfer Jay Riva who has just learned some news that will change his future. Jay’s brother Hud Riva, carrying around his own secret knowing tonight is the night he must come clean. And baby sister Kit Riva coming of age and realizing things about herself she alone must acknowledge.
These four siblings and their estranged rock star father Mick Riva who essentially abandoned them a decade before will all find something and let go of something on this one night. At this one party. When life will go up in flames and a phoenix will rise for each of them.
I liked this book but didn’t love it. I enjoyed Daisy Jones and the Six more. But Malibu Rising, especially if you grew up in the 80’s is a fun read, although somewhat predictable and a tiny bit too over the top.
***Three stars for Malibu Rising by Taylor Jenkins Reid
I hope you enjoyed my book review Malibu Rising by Taylor Jenkins Reid.
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