My Fab Fifties Life - Food Archives

Two Countries, Two Cuisines, Too Delicious

The Food of Taiwan and Malaysia

October 18, 2019

Laureen

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Location: Taiwan and Malaysia

Taking a cooking class and going on a food tour in every country I visit is a goal I have. And I accomplish it often, but not always. But when I can I always enjoy it and over the past couple of weeks I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing two countries, two cuisines, too delicious – the food of Taiwan and Malaysia.

Taiwan

We spent six days in Taipei Taiwan. We weren’t really tuned in to the Taiwanese cuisine, half expecting it to be just like China. But unlike China, Taiwan has been strongly influenced from Japan (with historical influence also from Portugal and Holland) and it’s noticeable in the cuisine. The Chinese influence comes primarily from Eastern China (Fujian). And certainly the fact that Taiwan is an island, the cuisine has a much stronger focus on seafood than much of China.

GoTuCook

A search online led me to Chef Calvin at GoTuCook. Thorough out our world travels I’ve taken cooking classes large and small, in cooking schools and home kitchens, from world famous chefs and humble housewives. And usually my favorite experiences are the ones where I have one-on-one time with the instructor in their home. This was my experience with GoTuCook.

Mushroom and chincken soup in Cooking class in Taipei — The beginnings of a delicious shiitake mushroom and chicken soup

We met early in the morning at the Beitou metro station from where we walked to experience the bustling thriving market and the local vendors selling to the local people. I always love this experience with a local who can explain unusual ingredients, answer my questions and enlighten me to this way of life long gone in America.

At The morning market Beitou Taipei — Me at the busy Beitou morning market

Next we headed to Calvin’s apartment, set up perfectfully for cooking classes. I had chosen three dishes I wanted to make ahead of time from a variety of options listed on the GoTuCook website. I chose as a starter Jellyfish Salad and for a soup course a chicken and mushroom soup and for our main course two kinds of pork dumplings.

Displaying all the dumplings made by hand in Taipei cooking class — My pretty dumplings ready for the steamer

I liked both the jellyfish salad (requires an overnight soak of the chewy jellyfish in the fridge before prep) and the fragrant soup with a broth we cooked with chicken feet as well as meaty parts from the blue chicken, but my favorite was the dumplings.

Making Chinese style steamed dumplings takes some practice. I’ve done similar work in classes before (making empanada in Argentina, pirogi in Poland and dumplings in Vietnam) but it’s still a chore to get your fingers to make the beautiful designs if it’s not a task you do everyday. We made pork with cabbage and spices and pork with corn and different spices. And then we ate!

Of course we had leftovers and I brought dumplings and jellyfish to my husband who was back at the hotel.

I really enjoyed this class and plan to tackle dumplings on my own soon. I recommend GoToCook if you visit Taipei.

Taipei Eats

We also took an amazing walking food tour with Taipei Eats where we expanded our Taiwanese cuisine knowledge with Taiwan Pork “burger”, stinky tofu, betel nut, scallion pancake and much more. Taipei Eats was one of the best food tours we have ever done. Our guide was amazing, there was so much food and we learned some interesting facts while meeting local people as well as other travelers from around the world. Such a wonderful experience!

Malaysia

What a country Malaysia is for a foodie. This remarkable country is a melting pot of many cultures, and it shows in everything, especially the food. Malay food is often spicy, and nasi (rice) features often. Eating with your hands is common. Pork is rarely featured in this cuisine because most Malay are Muslim.

Prepping the chicken at Indian Cooking Class Kuala Lumpur — Learning Indian cooking in Kuala Lumpur

On the other hand, many Chinese immigrated here in the 1800’s when this land was a British colony and the Chinese food is abundant, and often includes pork. Noodles, chicken and dumplings are also widely enjoyed.

And then there is the Indian food, representing the vast number of Indians living in Malaysia. The use of pungent spices and curries, more noodles as well as lots of vegetables make up this delicious cuisine.

Indigenous Malaysian sweet treat — Ancient Malay cultures enjoyed this rice flour treat

No matter what ethnic background, the people in this country love fried foods and fried chicken, seafood, samosa and much more are popular both as street food and in restaurants.

Off the Eaten Track

The food tour we took in Kuala Lumpur was very unique and one of the best ever. At the end of the evening we had sampled twenty-four (yes you read that correctly) foods of this diverse and delicious country.

Chinese Soup at Kuala Lumpur Food Tour — A very local Chinese Soup with veg, chicken and tofu

We signed up with Food Tour Malaysia for their Off the Eaten Track tour and were met by our guide Timothy at a subway stop in a suburb of Kuala Lumpur called Petaling Jaya where we began our gluttonous odyssey at an outdoor Malay neighborhood food court that operates 24 hours a day seven days a week. Here we found just locals enjoying the foods they loved. We had Nasi Lemak wrapped in banana leaf; ota ota, a smoked mackerel wrapped in palm leaf; a rich goat and potato soup; fried chicken and fried tempeh. I was full before we left this first stop.

Amazing Night Market at Kuala Lumpur Food Tour — My husband Arne recruited to work on the “carrot cake” stir fry – one of our favorite things we had on our Kuala Lumpur food tour

Next we headed to probably the best night market I have ever been too, also in the suburb of Petaling Jaya. Here we learned about the popular “carrot cake” (not a cake in the sense we are used to, more of a pressed tofu), we had spring roll, noodles, dumplings and sweet Chinese daun pandan filled with peanuts.

Trying new foods like mackeral in palm leaf at Kuala Lumpur Food Tour — Mackerel cooked inside a palm leaf

Next we headed to a very local-only Chinese open air restaurant to sample more noodles cooked over an open fire and a delicious soup with chicken, okra, long beans and potato.

Chinese sweet treat at Kuala Lumpur Food Tour — Daun Pandan a sweet Chinese treat

Our final stop was an outdoor Indian restaurant, and we were the only non-Indians there. And darn it I was so full I couldn’t really enjoy the amazing feast of roti, lentil dal, curry, a giant fried pancake with a coconut curry dip, fried chicken and mango smoothie. Roll me home. What a night it was. If you are ever in Kuala Lumpur, do this tour – but pace yourself!

Indian Bananan Roti at Kuala Lumpur Food Tour — Banana Roti a sweet Indian treat

The Versatile Housewives

To round off our food frenzy in Kuala Lumpur we spent one morning with Ruth, a cooking instructor who brings the flavors of her native India to visitors in Kuala Lumpur through her business The Versatile Housewives. We learned to make one of India’s most famous dishes, biryani, with a group of local university students in Ruth’s kitchen. Biryani is a rich and flavorful traditional dish, often served at weddings and ceremonies. It can be beef or lamb or chicken. We made a chicken biryani. The flavors of this dish come together by slowly preparing the fresh ingredients of caramelized onions, vegetables and spices like cardamon, cloves and pepper as well as herbs like cilantro and mint. After slowly blending all these flavors with rice and chicken, the biryani is served in a giant bowl and enjoyed communally. Check out Ruth’s website for a great selection of delicious Indian recipes.

Indian Cooking class Kuala Lumpur — The beautiful Biryani we made with our instructor Ruth

No matter where you travel, diving into the culture through food is the most interesting and tastiest way to engage with locals, learn history and culture and broaden your culinary chops. Be brave! Eat the world!

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Food & Drink

My Favorite Cooking Classes Around the World

Fabulous Travel Adventures

June 28, 2019

Laureen

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I don’t take a cooking class in EVERY country, but I’d like to. I love to learn about local cultures through food and I look for that experience when I can find it. In some countries finding a class is difficult or impossible. Other times it just doesn’t fit my schedule. But I always make an effort and when I do attend a class I am never disappointed. Just today I signed up for a cooking class for my upcoming visit to Hong Kong.

I can recommend all of the cooking classes below…many of these I have written blogs about and you can click directly to read those blog entries. I encourage you to consider cooking classes, even if

Cooking in Tuscany

cooking isn’t a big part of your life. Taking a class in a foreign country with local people, often in their homes and with their families, is one of the most rewarding ways to open up the cultural lines of communication all while enjoying a delicious and fun experience. Fabulous!

Tuscany/Italy – My first cooking class took place in Tuscany with a group of friends we were traveling with seven years ago. We learned to make an amazing meal from the owner of the Villa where we were staying. She was a former chef and chocolatier! Our amazing meal included handmade pasta, vegetable terrine, beef loin and lots and lots of wine.

Argentina – We took a very fun cooking class in Buenes Aires during our two day visit prior to getting on a cruise ship. Unfortunately we were so jet-legged the experience is a little bit fuzzy in my memory. The class was

Cooking in South Korea

held in the home of the chef, and there were about 8 people in attendance. We made several different kinds of empanadas, made delicious chimichurri sauce and butter cookies and learned about Matte – the unique and ubiquitous drink of Argentina.

South Korea – in Seoul I spent two full days with a world famous South Korean Chef the Korean Food and Culture Academy and it remains one of my all time favorite experiences. One of the days I was with just one other student. The second day I was with four other students. I learned to cook about a dozen dishes including Kimchee and I have used these recipes over and over

Cooking in Croatia

ever since. Who knew Korean food was so amazing? I didn’t and that is one of the best parts of the experience.

Croatia – I’m a sucker for slow roasted meats and it’s one of the staple foods in many of the East European countries. My experience in Croatia was a mouth watering one, learning the ancient and incredibly delicious process of cooking Peka over an open fire. The lamb dish is spectacularly delicious and a celebratory Croatian speciality.

Guatemala – I loved my full-day private cooking class in Antiqua Guatemala. I had the chef all to myself and an English translator. We made several dishes, enough to feed an army, and I ended up taking all the food home to enjoy another full meal with my husband. Learning

Cooking in Spain

to make the tortillas was a favorite activity, that proved much more difficult that you might expect!

Morocco – In Asilah Morocco we were blessed to have the most wonderful Airbnb that included a daily housekee and full-time cook. What a special treat that was during our ten days in this tiny

Cooking in Thailand

ocean front village. Each day she cooked for us and we watched and learned from her. We also went with her to the market and learned about the local specialities from tagine to couscous.

Thailand – It’s a tough call for me to say which class was my favorite but I would definitely put my two days at the Thai Kitchen Cookery School in Chiang Mai very near the top. It was a comedy of errors how I ended up there, but in hindsight I was so glad I did. I loved the class, the staff and the wonderful foods I enjoyed over my two-days with them.

South Africa – Several of the classes I have taken over the years have been in the personal homes of the chef, bringing me closer to the local

Cooking in Belize

culture in a familiar and family way. In Capetown South Africa my husband and enjoyed a wonderful evening in the home of our Chef who taught us about local cuisine from the African culture with the European influence. We ate Emu for the first time and many other delicious dishes as well as exceptional South African wines with our Chef and her husband.

Vietnam – One of my all time favorite cooking experiences was in Hoi An Vietnam, which coincidentally is also one of my all time favorite cities. I took an all day class at the famous Mrs. Vys Cooking School.

Cooking in South Africa

The class began with a bike ride around the city that included stops at several markets, a beautiful organic community garden and at the home of a bean sprout farmer . I learned so much and enjoyed the bike ride as well. Returning to the school we toured the multiple cooking stations within the school watching the professionals making food beautiful before heading upstairs to the kitchen to tackle our own recipes. I ate so much that day, and learned so much, and highly recommend this place if you are ever in Hoi An. I hope to return some day.

Spain – I loved Barcelona, and especially loved the famous Mercado de la Boqueria for its color and festive atmosphere as well as delicious and fresh food. It was here where my class began, touring, tasting and

Cookin in Poland

purchasing the ingredients before heading upstairs to cook. Our three-hours class included such Catalan specialities as paella, gazpacho and Spanish Tortilla. I have cooked these items many times since.

Poland – Krakow is one of my favorite European cities, under-appreciated by many visitors to Europe.

Cooking in Vietnam

We loved the food of Krakow and did a food walking and drinking tour as well as a pierogi cooking class. My teacher was a young college student who was born and raised in Krakow. We met at the market where she helped us speak Polish to the vendors to acquire the ingredients we needed for our dish. We then proceeded to her tiny, communist era apartment where we maneuvered around her little kitchen learning to make the dough and the stuffing for several different pierogi. It was one of my favorite classes ever.

Belize – Learning about the food and culture of the Garifuna people of Belize, with our two adult sons was a highlight of our family time together in Belize. Cooking outdoors on an open fire with Chef Gloria doing everything from breaking and shredding the coconut to pounding the yams with a wooden mallet made the final delicious dinner all the more satisfying and fun.

So those are some of my favorite cooking class experiences over the past several years. To be sure I will be writing about more wonderful cooking experiences in the future. Because life is fabulous and delicious!

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Food & Drink

In the Garifuna Kitchen with Chef Gloria

Our Belize Adventure Cooking Local

March 8, 2019

Laureen

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Location: Hopkins Village, Belize

Faithful followers of this blog are familiar with my desire to explore and embrace local cultures in my travels. One of the absolute best ways to do that, is to spend time in the home of a local person learning how to cook the local cuisine. There is nothing better. Authentic, informative and delicious. So that is how we found ourselves in the Garifuna kitchen with Chef Gloria.

We found Chef Gloria (conveniently just down the street from where we are staying in Hopkins) through

Chef Gloria

Taste Belize, a website connecting visiting foodies with local food adventures. Taste Belize has several options, but the option to learn about the Garifuna culture and foods was the one for us.

Garifuna

If you are not familiar with the word Garifuna, here is a brief description from Wikipedia;

“The Garifuna (/ˌɡɑːriːˈfuːnə/ GAR-ee-FOO-nə;^[3]^[4] pl. Garinagu^[5] in Garifuna) are an indigenous people native to the island of St. Vincent who speak an eponymous Arawakan language.

While they are ancestrally and genealogically descended from groups that migrated from the Lesser Antilles, mainly Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, many Garifuna today are of mixed ancestry, primarily with West African, Central African, Island Carib, European, and Arawak admixture.

Cutting the plantains

Most Garifuna people live along the Caribbean coast of Honduras, with smaller populations in Belize, Guatemala, and Nicaragua. They arrived there after being exiled from the islands of the Lesser Antilles by British colonial administration as “Black Caribs” after a series of slave rebellions. Those Caribs deemed to have had less African admixture were not exiled and are still present in the Caribbean. There is now also a large number that have moved to the United States.”

Chef Gloria

Chef Gloria met us in her brightly colored yellow Garifuna dress (yellow, black and white the official Garifuna colors) with a big smile and generous welcome to her small outdoor cooking facility. She began our visit with a simple language lesson;

Good Morning – Buiti Binafin

Welcome – Buiti achüluruni

How Are You – Ida biña?

Thank you – Seremein

The Garifuna language is primarily based on the Arawak language of the indigenous people of Central America, but also incorporates elements of French, Spanish, English, Carib and West African languages.

The Garifuna cuisine, just like its language, is a colorful melding together from the history and environment

Husking the coconuts

of which the Garifuna people have emerged.

Fresh and Local

Our ingredients for the dish we were preparing on this day all came either from Gloria’s yard, or the sea in front of the kitchen. Making the favorite Garifuna dish of Hudut (mashed plantains) with Sere (coconut fish stew) we used fresh coconut, plantain, basil, oregano, habanero and red snapper all gathered just for our feast.

So we began our work in the Garifuna kitchen with Chef Gloria. The wood burning stove was hot when we arrived and we began by carefully using a very sharp knife to peel the plantains. If you have never peeled a plantain

Family Coconut Success

you might be surprised. The texture of both the skin and the fruit is firmer than a banana. We used about a dozen unripe plantains and about a half a dozen softer ripe ones. These boiled for 15 minutes (unripe) and we added the ripe at the end for five minutes.

While the plantains were over the fire we headed out to shuck the coconuts. Still in their green outer shells, Gloria helped us peel away the husk with the use of a wooden stake in the ground. I broke the stake when it was my turn (I don’t know my own strength), so we then went to the sharper metal stake not usually used by the amateurs. Once we each had a husked coconut, Gloria masterfully used a machete to open each and

The Mennonite Coconut Drill

we drank the delicious water inside.

Traditional and New

Next in the Garifuna kitchen with Chef Gloria we learned two different methods used for shredding the coconut;

The Mennonite method created by the local Mennonite population is now the preferred method, which is an ingenious “drill” that is simple, effective and quick (see photo).

The traditional Garifuna way, is a grater method, using a board with small pebbles embedded in it. Effective but much more labor intensive (see photo).

The traditional Garifuna Coconut grater

We took all the grated coconut and hand squeezed all the milk out of it. We added some water to the coconut and squeezed it some more. Once the coconut was completely dry it no longer had the flavor we all know and love. So I learned in the Garifuna kitchen with Chef Gloria that it’s all about the milk when it comes to coconut flavor.

The milk became the base of the dish we were making and the coconut meat all went to the compost.

To the milk over the fire we added basil, oregano and three whole habaneros. Gloria assured me that as long as the habanero is whole, with no breaks or blemishes in the skin, it will give a wonderful flavor to the soup without adding any heat – something else I learned in the Garifuna

Squeezing the milk from the coconut

kitchen with Chef Gloria.

While the coconut milk simmered we began work on turning the plantains into Hudut. Using the mata and mata stick (a giant mortar and pestle) we smashed the plantains until they formed a ball firm like dough. This dish was very similar in texture and flavor to the Fu Fu we ate in Burkina Faso, made from Casava.

Casava also features prominently in Garifuna cuisine, particularly the flat Casava bread, a staple food of the Garifuna.

It took awhile to get the texture of the Hudut just right and during that time

Pounding the Hudut

we added the already seared whole red snapper and then the okra to the simmering coconut milk. And the tiny and rustic outdoor kitchen started to smell heavenly.

The Garifuna Feast

Gloria shooed us out of the kitchen and we sat down in the dining area and waited to enjoy the finished product. The Hudut arrived, still warm and firm enough to eat with your fingers, then the beautiful Sere soup served in a calabash bowl, the whole fish smothered in the coconut goodness lightly fragranced with basil and oregano. And as promised the habaneros added only flavor and no heat.

Before serving

Simple ingredients. Locally sourced. Lovingly prepared. Gratefully consumed. Our day in the Garifuna kitchen with Chef Gloria was memorable, educational and delicious. We will definitely make Sere and Hudut back

Our feast

home, and hopefully do it justice in honor of our new friend Gloria.

We thank you.

Seremein.

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Europe Travel

Island Hopping from Antiparos Greece

My Fab Fifties Island Girl Life

October 7, 2018

Laureen

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Location: South Aegean Greece

What a wonderful decision it was for us to spend three weeks on the tiny island of Antiparos in the south Aegean. We have truly loved our time here.

Antiparos

Delos

Using Antiparos as our home base for island hopping wasn’t really what we set out to do, but it worked out well for us to take short day trips to some of the other islands around the area. However, something to note – because of the unusual weather pattern (around the world) the ferry from Antiparos to Paros was shut down for two days due to wind while we were here. Something to think about if you plan to stay only a short time. We had lots of time so it did not affect our plans.

Santorini

You can hop to Santorini from here, but the off-season ferry schedule makes that tough. During the summer more boats run. But we had already spent three days there so no need to go back. But if you visit and want to do a day trip to Santorini check out both the ferry schedule as well as the privately operated tour boats. The private boats run more frequently. When we took the ferry from Santorini to Paros it costs us 58 Euro for both of us (one way) and took three hours, stopping at Ios along the way. We used Minoan ferry line for this trip.

Mykonos and Delos

Delos

Mykonos

We used a private tour boat to visit Delos and Mykonos together on one day. We took the ferry from Antiparos to Paros and we got on a van that transported us to Naousa (the van transfer was included in the tour price). Here we hopped on a boat that could carry about 200 people. It wasn’t full, but perhaps 100 people. It was an hour ride to Delos where we spent three hours touring this amazing island and its significant ancient ruins. Guided tours were available but we did the tour on our own and really enjoyed it.

Back on the boat we motored 15 minutes to Mykonos. We had three hours to wander here. We had a fantastic lunch at Salparo, sitting on the rocks overlooking the harbor. We then enjoyed sauntering around the historic blue and white village, visited historic sites and looked at shops. Three hours was just enough, since we had been to Mykonos once before eleven years ago.

That trip to Delos and Mykonos was an all-day adventure and costs us 50 euro each. We booked this through Polo Tours in Paros.

Paros

Naousa,Paros

Naousa, Paros

We visited the island of Paros twice. The first visit we had a car and we headed to Naousa in the north part of the island. The weather wasn’t great but we still enjoyed exploring the tiny alleys and hidden shops and homes in the old chora (village). Naousa also has a charming and picturesque port. We drove up into the mountains to visit the teeny village of Lefkes. This ancient town, far from the water, is unusual in how green it is, unlike most of the brown island landscape, and is home to a small agricultural population. Lefkes is one of the few remaining chora that retains its authentic roots.

The next time we visited Paros we spent several hours discovering Paroikia, the port town where the large ferries come and go. The port area is bustling and noisy, but hidden back behind it is an incredible old chora that many people miss. It once again had some fascinating buildings, tunnels and passageways, a spectacular old castle and temple of Athena, many lovely shops and of course, cats.

Naxos

We traveled on the lovely Blue Star Ferries to the island of Naxos, the largest of the Cyclades Islands, about a 45 minute ferry ride from Pariokia. We paid 42 Euro total for both of us round-trip. It was a very windy day and I worried about the boat ride, but the Blue Star line runs large, almost cruise-ship style boats, and I did fine with my motion sickness issue.

Pariokia, Paros

It was also very windy in Naxos, and this port town is very exposed, so we spent a lot of time wandering the old chora up to the ancient castle and trying to stay out of the wind. It’s another beautiful ancient town. We enjoyed having a drink at the rooftop of 1739, which was out of the wind and offered a spectacular panoramic view. We had a nice lunch of simple souvlaki at Yasouvlaki. We then braved the crashing waves to cross the pedestrian manmade causeway to walk out to the famous ancient portara (door), site of an unfinished temple from 530BC. We got wet. Like I said, it was very windy. But it was worth it. The Naxos Portara was worth it.

Antiparos

Naxos

At the end of the day in Naxos I told my husband that I have really enjoyed visiting all five of the islands, but in the end, I am so glad we stayed three weeks on Antiparos. It has everything we want; quiet and peaceful, small village, beautiful secluded beaches, a handful of shops and is still close enough to visit the surrounding islands.

I do hope to return here someday.

Where to next?

But now its time to leave. Next stop – ten-day tour of Egypt and Jordan. A definite bucket list destination for me ever since I was a child. We hope you will continue to follow along on our Fab Fifties Adventures.

Farewell Greece and Antiparos. I love you.

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Europe Travel -- Food & Drink

My Favorite Greek Foods and Recipes

It’s Not Greek to Me

October 5, 2018

Laureen

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Location: Antiparos Greece

Skid at Skala Restaurant in Santorini

I’ve been to Greece before, and one of the things I was most looking forward to about returning here was the cuisine and enjoying my favorite greek foods and recipes. Fresh, local and fabulous, it’s easy to see how healthy the Mediterranean diet is. Copious amounts of olive oil, ocean to plate seafood, salty mouth-watering feta, and produce from local growers including gorgeous red and yellow tomatoes, crunchy cucumbers, purple eggplant, greens, beets, onions, potatoes. Lemons, limes, pomegranate and other seasonal fruit figure prominently.

What’s not to like?

Dolmades so delicious and easy to make

My favorite greek foods and recipes were enjoyed in restaurants on Antiparos, Mykonos, Paros and Santorini. I have enjoyed squid several times, it’s best I think when simply grilled with lemon and olive oil. I’ve also had octopus with orzo (tasted very much like a risotto) and lamb souvlaki. We’ve tried dolmades (I love these lovely little lemony pockets of deliciousness and have made these at home several times), anchovies, sardines and fried cheese called saganaki. We also enjoyed moussaka, pastitsio, rabbit stew and many choices of salads.

Making Humus

I usually like to take a cooking class in every country I visit. But here on tiny Antiparos there is no such thing. So instead I have set out to cook several Greek recipes I’ve found on (where else) Pinterest. Everything from sandwiches to salads to spanakopita has made its way out of our Airbnb kitchen these past three weeks. So here are my successes (and one fail) from my self-taught Mediterranean Highlights Menu from Antiparos.

My Favorite Greek Foods and Recipes;

Salads

Greek Salad

In most restaurants you can find many choices of salads. Most popular are Eggplant Salad, Tomato Salad and of course, Greek Salad.

Greek Salad is fairly simple and usually includes the following ingredients; feta, olives, tomato, red onion, capers and cucumber. Sometimes it will have lettuce, but the Greek way is without lettuce. The dressing is olive oil (of course), lemon, salt and pepper.

Greek Salad Recipe

Chickpea Salad and Eggplant Chips

Chickpea Salad is also very popular. Chickpeas grow in abundance in the mediterranean region. Chickpeas find their way into many recipes, not the least of all being hummus. This salad I made included lots of delicious fresh veg as well as the chickpeas. I had left over chicken from our Greek Chicken (see below) so I shredded that and added it to the salad. It was delicious served with the fried eggplant chips.

Chickpea Salad recipe

Mezes

Bujurdi

In Greek small bites or appetizers are known as mezes. You will often find mezes on menus to be served with a glass of wine. You can also enjoy mezes before your meal. We ordered several mezes when we ate out and especially liked saganaki (a fried cheese), octopus in vinegar, and bujurdi an incredible cheesy dip. So I decided to tackle bujurdi. It’s amazing. Try it.

Bujurdi Recipe

Light Meals

My homemade spanakopita

Spanokopita has always been one of my favorite Greek dishes. And it is so easy. Don’t fear the filo! It is very easy to work with. Spanakopita has simple ingredients; filo (purchase it ready-made fresh or frozen), spinach, onions, feta and dill. Bake and enjoy for breakfast, lunch or dinner!

Spanakopita Recipe

Greek Sandwich

For lunch one day we ate the most delicious, and very filling, Greek Sandwich. This sandwich could easily be dinner, with a side salad or dolmades which is how I served it. It’s a very tall sandwich, so be sure to get nice fresh bread that can hold up to the numerous ingredients. I will definitely make this recipe again.

Greek Sandwich

Olives at every meal

At most of our lunches we ate very simple mezes of canned sardines (so many choices available in the store) or fresh anchovies in oil and lemon along with pita, hummus, feta, olives, cherry tomatoes, sliced cucumber and fruit. A very simple and easy meal and totally satisfying. Here in Antiparos we have really fallen in love with lemon hummus. Bright and nutty and delicious.

Delicious Dinners

Greek Roast Chicken

Most any country you travel to you can find a version of roast chicken, and since we were blessed with an oven in this Airbnb I was well prepared to try this recipe. We purchased a beautiful plump and organic locally grown chicken and with some simple herbs and lemon, created a fantastic dish. We had left overs for two additional meals. I served the chicken with a warm potato salad with feta.

Roast Chicken

Moussaka

I’ve always been one to experiment boldly in the kitchen, and I tackled a full Greek meal for guests when I was just 23 years old and we were first married. This was my first attempt at moussaka. It was a smashing success and I have made it many times over the years (35 years since!). So cooking it here in Greece seemed appropriate, even though we had enjoyed it in a restaurant. This recipe gave us lots of left overs.

Moussaka

Dessert

Baklava

I didn’t make any desserts but I must mention how much the Greeks like their sweets. Fortunately (or unfortunately I’m not sure) the little village here in Antiparos has an amazing bakery…which we visited several times. Of course you know baklava, but there are many other cookies, pastries, custards, pies and amazing bread available fresh every day. We made a point to partake – of course all in the name of research!

The Big Fail

Seabream fail

I love seafood, but I admit, it can be difficult to cook. I wanted to grill a whole fish on our BBQ, but the wind has been so high we couldn’t use the grill. We bought a whole fish, frozen, because the fishmonger has closed for the season. I think that was our biggest mistake. It just didn’t smell or taste fresh. Despite the deliciously fresh herbs (dill and parsley) and lemon and garlic we stuffed the fish with – we hated it. I didn’t even eat mine. I think the recipe isn’t at fault here – or the cook for that matter. The fish wasn’t fresh and so it was a fail.

Saganaki fried cheese

We haven’t eaten out much during our time in Antiparos, and now many of the local restaurants have closed for the season. But we enjoy creating in the kitchen, and we have learned a lot about the local cuisine in doing so.

So there you have it! My favorite Greek foods and recipes. Fabulous Greece. Fabulous Food. Fabulous Life. Opa!

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Europe Travel

Transylvania Highlights Tour

Romania’s Beautiful Preserved Medieval Villages

September 12, 2018

Laureen

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Location: Transylvania, Romania

We could have easily spent a month in Romania. But we only had ten days, and so we decided to focus this time on a Transylvania Highlights Tour – Romania’s Beautiful Preserved Medieval Villages.

Map shows the three regions from 1648

We will come back again, because there is a lot more to see in this sleepy little country that tourist are just beginning to discover.

History

In the Middle Ages, what we know as Romania today, was split into three distinct regions; Wallachia in the south where today Bucharest is, Moldavia to the east, now split into Moldova and Romania and Transylvania in the west.

Map shows the Kingdom of Romania

Today these regions are often referred to as Greater Romania, the Kingdom of Romania. A growing interest is to reunite the region and bring Moldova back into the Romanian speaking states.

“Romanian is an Eastern Romance language, descended from Latin with some German, French, English, Greek, Slavic, and Hungarian borrowings. Romanians are by far the most numerous group of speakers of an Eastern Romance language today. It has been said that they constitute “an island of Latinity”^[5] in Eastern Europe, surrounded on all sides either by Slavic peoples or by the Hungarians.” (source Wikipedia)

View of Brasov from top of Mount Tampa

Our time in Transylvania was wonderful. We had good weather and enjoyed visiting four of the region’s main medieval towns; Brasov, Bran, Sighisoara and Sibiu.

Romania sustained minimal damage during World War II, relative to how much the rest of Europe sustained. Romania’s capital Bucharest was bombed as was the oil industry in the town of Ploiesti. Which means, luckily for us, the fairytale castles, medieval villages and citadels survived and are intact today.

If you had come here 25 years ago, just after the fall of communism, you would have found these villages much as they had been for centuries. A square in the center surrounded by tiny streets that spoke out to the high wall surrounding the fortification. The center square would likely have a church and a clock tower and the townspeople going about their daily business. Village folk would be selling the produce from the garden, the freshly made bread and cheese. There would still have been horses and carriages and local artisans. Think “Beauty and the Beast”. But today, these towns function primarily for the tourists, just like so many other places in Europe.

But despite that, we found the places we visited enjoyable, beautiful, friendly and full of wonderful history, architecture and food. Well worth a visit.

Architecture

Peles Castle, in Sinai, home to several generations of Romanian royals and still occupied today by Michael I of Romania

Bran Castle in Bran, occupied for generations by Romanian Royalty and the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula castle

Much of this area’s habitation is traced back to the Saxons arriving in the 12th century. They are responsible for developing many of the villages during the middle ages in Transylvania, including the towns we spent time in. The fortified towns, amazing castles and fortresses and churches and houses still standing hundreds of years later are a result of the craftsmanship and fortitude of the Saxons.

The Gothic style is prevalent in parts of Transylvania and seen distinctly in the 14th century Bran’s Castle in Bran (the castle that inspired Bram Stoker to write Dracula), and the 14th century Black Church in Brasov.

The middle ages also brought the fortified towns to Transylvania, with Sibiu, Sighisoara and Brasov being exceptional examples of how the design focused on functionality and protection.

Brasov’s only remaining fortress gate

The city of Brasov today is a mix of Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture representing the centuries of development in this mountain town.

Sighisoara is a nearly completely intact 15th century fortified citadel and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. This tiny village is where Vlad the Impaler Dracul was born, the character that Bram Stoker turned into a fictional vampire. For the tourists, you’ll see some Dracula kitsch here, but luckily it is not overdone.

One of several fortified towers in the amazingly preserved town of Sighisoara

Houses in Sibiu

Sibiu is the grandest of the three towns, with a main square boasting a fabulous variety of Baroque and Renaissance as well as Gothic buildings and churches surrounded by parts of the remaining fortress and towers. Sibui was an important trade center with powerful guilds dominating the regional trade. Houses remain along the cobbled street and are brightly painted. The historic Journeyman house, where the wood carver guild once reigned, maintains the pole full of sharp objects often left for luck.

Beautiful mix of architecture in Sibiu

Food

Transylvania enjoys many of the same foods you can find throughout Romania, but it also has it’s regional specialities. While in Transylvania we enjoyed;

Mititei – small rolled sausages without casing grilled and served with mustard

Eggplant Salad

Eggplant Salad – we had this two ways, the first mixed with Mayonnaise, the second mixed with red peppers. Both were the consistence of dip like humus.

Pork Ciorba (soup)

Ciorba – means soup and the Romanians love soup. So filling, warm and delicious you can find many delicious soups including a bean soup often served in a bread bowl, chicken noodle soup ( a favorite of the locals), goulash soup, lamb stew, pork sour soup, cabbage soup and many, many more.

Sarmele is cabbage rolls, similar to cabbage rolls we have enjoyed in other Eastern European countries but slightly different with a sour rye taste and dill.

Cabbage rolls with polenta and pork

Jumari – deep-fried smoked pork belly or bacon. I couldn’t stop eating this.

Placinta – means pie and the word is used for a pastry filled cheese item, but also used for other kinds of pies including savory pies similar to Sheperds Pie.

Papanasi with sour cream and berries

Papanasi – possibly my favorite of all the foods we tried is this lovely little dessert. I’m actually not much of a dessert person but this one is so delicious. Translated as Romanian Donut, the cheese filled dough is deep-fried, crispy on the outside and very moist and delicious on the inside. Served hot and then covered with yogurt or sour cream and berries. We had it once with blackberries and once with blueberries and both times so yummy good.

We have learned so much during our short visit to this beautiful, interesting and delicious country. We will return again someday to explore more. But until that day, we thank Romania and its wonderful people for such a pleasant visit.

Thank you! Multumesc! Fabulos!

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Europe Travel -- Food & Drink

The Food of Poland – Pierogi and So Much More

September 2, 2018

Laureen

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Location: Poland

We have spent the past two weeks eating our way through Poland. If you had asked me about Polish food before arriving, I would have said “well they eat pierogi and drink vodka!” I think many Americans know only this as well. But as much as I love the pierogi, I have learned all about the food of Poland – pierogi and so much more.

Poland’s tumultuous history is identifiable in their foods (history blog coming soon). Over the millennia the region we know as Poland was controlled by Prussia, Austro-Hungarian Empire, Hapsburg Dynasty, Russia, Sweden, Lithuania, Germany, Soviet Union and others. Watch this short video to understand how fluid the borders of this area have been. It’s fascinating.

Poland’s Changing Borders

So, of course that means for more than two thousand years the region has been influenced by the surrounding kingdoms and countries. But also, and perhaps more importantly, Poland has endured a great deal of economic hardship, which means developing simple foods with simple ingredients seasonally available or what ever is on hand.

And you will see that in the comfort foods of Poland.

Soups and Meats

Zurek Sour Soup. My favorite

In Poznan I had one of my favorite traditionally Polish foods, a soup called zurek. I really need to learn to make this delicious, bright, flavorful soup. Often called Sour Soup because of the fermented rye used, it’s very difficult to describe but definitely not difficult to eat. Want to try it? Check out this recipe.

Duck with beets and dumplings

Soups are very popular in Poland, particularly in the long dark winter, and in addition to zurek we had tomato soup, seafood soup, beet soup (borscht) and another sour soup with fermented rye and dill called zalewajka. I loved that one too. Want to try it? Check out this recipe.

In Poznan and in Wroclaw we also enjoyed wonderfully prepared duck, traditionally served with beets and yeast dumplings. We also had deliciously hand-made sausages and pickles served with mustard. Another favorite was a beetroot and strawberry salad served with warm goat cheese. A remarkable combination of simple ingredients.

Pierogi and Cooking Class

Fresh cured meats with pickles and mustard

We stayed the longest in the remarkable city of Krakow, where we had time to really dive into the culture and food scene. Here is where we ate the most pierogi, taste testing traditional favorites as well as a few new creations. The Pierogi Ruskie is the favorite amongst the Poles, and I have to say that is my favorite too. Simple ingredients of potato, cheese, and onion burst in your mouth, full of home cooked goodness. Another favorite we enjoyed was duck pierogi – a more modern take on

Duck pierogi

the traditional food. We also had mushroom and cabbage, spinach and cheese, blueberry, and raspberry.

So much pierogi so little time!

In Krakow I had a wonderful pleasure of spending half a day with Olga of Urban Adventures in her tiny communist era apartment, where we created some delicious pierogi, learning the nuances of preparation. The dough for pierogi is as simple as pasta dough, just flour, egg, water and a little salt. Hand mixing and hand forming is important to keep it traditional. Pierogi is always boiled, but left over pierogi is often pan-fried the next day for another delicious way to enjoy it. And since you can’t just make a few pierogi, there are always leftovers. There are many ways to enjoy Pierogi. Click on this link for a recipes for several of the most traditional ones, including Ruskie. I have also attached a pdf here with the recipe Olga so kindly provide.Pierogi receipe

Forming the pierogi

While spending the day with Olga we also visited the local Polish market where we learned to order the items we needed – in Polish – while the local merchants smiled and indulged our broken mispronunciation. At the market we also learned not only about fresh meat and produce, but about the many kinds of popular pickles, pastries, cheese and, surprisingly, lard. We ate bacon lard spread like butter

At the market fresh eggs and a polish cheese called Golka

on delicious fresh bread. Who knew that could be so good?

Christmas Traditions

Our visit to Krakow also included spending four hours one evening with Delicious Poland, walking around the city and tasting so many delicious polish specialties. Seriously I thought I was going to explode. If you come to Krakow definitely do a food walking tour – but DO NOT eat lunch before hand. So much delicious food. Here is what we ate:

Pierogi of course, at one of the city’s most loved family owned pierogi restaurants called Przystanek. We learned that sometimes fruit filled pierogi is served as a main dish, and the mushroom and cabbage pierogi is always served on Christmas

Ruskie Pierogi made in cooking class. The most traditional.

Eve.

Christmas Eve is a major holiday and the family gathers to make the pierogi together. A traditional Polish Christmas Eve meal includes 12 courses, symbolizing riches, the 12 apostles and the 12 months of the year. The feast begins with the breaking of a wafer and is followed by; red borscht, mushroom soup, carp, herring, mushroom and cabbage pierogi, sauerkraut, cabbage rolls, kutia (grain and candied fruit mixture), gingerbread, dried fruit compote, poppy seed cake.

Poppyseed Cake

Another wonderful Christmas Eve tradition in Poland is that every table is set with one extra seat. Traditionally set for anyone who may be alone or needing a meal on Christmas Eve.

Walking Food Tour Krakow

Our food tour continued at Zalewajke in the Jewish Quarter, where we enjoyed the zalewajke soup and the borscht (mentioned above). We continued to the Jewish Market square to try a more recent addition to the polish food scene, zapiekanka. This open face sandwich is the favorite fast food in Krakow, developed in the communist era when burgers were not allowed because they were too “American”.

Zapiekanka open face sandwich

Trying local vodka at Hevre (a converted Jewish Prayer Hall) I realized I actually like vodka, if it’s the good stuff! My favorite was the Bison Grass; so subtle and smooth. Next we visited a very popular local brewery called Ursa Major with a woman brew master! Here we enjoyed sausage and cheese with two beers – a no hop(!) summer ale (interesting) and a

Enjoying the Bison Grass Vodka

session IPA. Unlike most places we’ve been, American-style IPAs are very popular here.

So we are thinking we probably just have dessert left but no! We continued on to Kuchina u Doroty where we ate more! Two of my favorites of my time in Poland I had here – a delicious potato pancake covered in goulash called place ziemniaczane z gulaszem (try it) and a cabbage and sausage stew called bigos (try it) . In addition we had golabki (cabbage rolls), beetroot salad, kompot (juice) and racuchy, a fried dough dessert that tasted a lot like french toast, covered with yogurt and fresh berries.

Potato pancake with goulash

About this time Arne plopped me in a wheelbarrow and wheeled me home.

The women in my cooking class.

Our time in Poland has been incredibly delicious and that has been incredibly surprising. Poland is an underrated tourism destination, and now I know the Polish cuisine is also misunderstood and underrated. I will take everything I learned about the food and culture of this incredible country and refer to it often.

And someday, I will return. To eat, to enjoy and to savor all this country has to offer.

Arne enjoying some of the local microbrews

Dziekuje Poland! Fantastyczny!

Note – Traveling and eating in Poland is very inexpensive. Some of our nicest meals with appetizers, main course, dessert, wine and beer only cost around $40. As of this writing the exchange rate is 4 zloty to one USD.

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Europe Travel

Berlin for First Timers

The Grand Adventure

August 24, 2018

Laureen

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Location: Berlin Germany

Click on any photo for an enlarged version.

I have wanted to go to Berlin for years. I’m not sure why it took me so long. Since we have traveled to Germany, France and Italy several times, we haven’t made those countries a priority on the Grand Adventure so far. But Berlin was different. I had to go. Berlin for first timers was a whirlwind. And worth it.

We arrived on the Deutsche Bahn train from

Deutsch Bahn

Brugge via Brussels on a Sunday afternoon. It had been a very long journey involving three trains and 4:30am wake up. We checked into our Airbnb and headed out to the neighborhood market only to find everything shuttered on a Sunday. So we ate delicious Turkish food for dinner in our very Turkish neighborhood and then fell fast asleep.

With only three full days in Berlin we hit the ground running on Monday morning. Literally. We got up and did an early morning run through our neighborhood park. Refreshed, we stopped at the now open market for supplies before heading back to our apartment to get ready for our day.

Since we are training for the Camino we walked everywhere in Berlin, but Berlin for first timers is easy by subway, elevated train and bus system accessing most of the greater Berlin area. There is also a wonderful taxi system and Uber.

Brandenburg Gate

The wall

Our first day we walked and walked enjoying the Tiergarten, Reichstag, Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie and several sites where you can see and touch old remnants of the Berlin Wall. These included the Topography of Terror, Checkpoint Charlie Black Box Cold War Interpretive area, and Potsdam Plaza.

Currywurst with beer

Since we had already eaten one of Berliner’s favorite fast foods (Turkish kabob) we tried the also famous Currywurst . The invention of Currywurst is attributed to Herta Heuwer in Berlin in 1949, after she obtained ketchup (or possibly Worcestershire sauce) and curry powder from British soldiers in Germany. She mixed these ingredients with other spices and poured it over grilled pork sausage.. You can have Currywurst with skin or without (skin being the casing for the sausage before cooking ). We tried it both ways and I preferred with the skin – a nice crunchy texture. That said, Currywurst was not my favorite. On another day we also had Bockwurst. Served with potato salad and I really liked that.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

Checkpoint Charlie a recreation

Day two began early with a visit to the Holocaust Memorial, officially titled Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. This controversial memorial encompasses 2711 concrete blocks of different heights taking up an entire square block of the city. Underground is a very poignant and somber, yet interesting and thoughtful museum that focuses on families and the humans who lost their lives during this evil period of history.

Black Box Cold War Interpretive Panels

On day two we also signed up for a Free Walking Tour, always one of the things we search out in any city. Of course Free Walking Tours aren’t really “free”. You pay the guide at the end what you think the tour was worth. And our Free Walking Tour in Berlin was the best one we ever did. Our guide Georgia was exceptional. We loved it and I highly recommend New Europe Tours.

Brandenburg Gate

On our tour we visited a lot of the same places we had seen the day before, but seeing them with Georgia our guide was a whole different experience. We learned amazing history starting with ancient history of the region right up through the Cold War and the fall of the Berlin wall and of course a great deal of history about Hitler and WWII. It was fascinating.

Car park over the bunker

By the way, throughout Berlin there is almost no reference to Hitler. That is by design. There is a point to not have his name included in most things. In fact, we stood on a car park that is on top of the bunker where he committed suicide. There is only a simple sign, added only recently when Berlin hosted the World Cup in 2006. Did you know Hitler’s remains were dug up from the original burial site in East Germany and dumped in a river? This is so there is no final resting place for this horrible human being and so no one can ever have a place to go and glorify him in any way. The Nazi Swastika is outlawed in Germany.

Eisbein

Weiner Schnitzel

Following our tour we headed for lunch. We wanted some good hearty German food so we ended up at Augustiner am Gendarmernmarkt. More Bavarian than Berliner but it was delicious. I had Wiener Schnitzel and my husband had a gigantic Eisbein (pork knuckle). No dinner was necessary after the delicious lunch!

Site of the Book Burning

Next we walked to Museum Island, just over the river you’ll find a gathering of Berlin museums. We stopped at the Bebelplatz, where famously the Nazis burned all the books. Here a unique memorial to that fateful event lays underground. Then we visited the Alte National Gallery – Berlin’s best regarded Art Museum. This is certainly no Louvre or Uffizi, but the museum is compact and easy to tour with a lot of German artists as well as nice collection of Impresionist from Renoir to Monet.

We ended our day taking a narrated boat ride on the river Spree. It was a beautiful day and it was fun to see the city from the water and enjoy the narration providing us even more interesting facts about Berlin. There are numerous locations around the city where you can start these boat tours.

The west side of the East Side Gallery Wall

Day three was a walking day. We had over the past couple of days enjoyed seeing some of the remains of the Berlin Wall that are in the city, but the longest remaining part of the wall is actually about six miles from the main city area. So we walked. It was hot, but we enjoyed the walk which took us through Alexanderplatz, where Berlin’s TV tower stands – an iconic modern soaring spire that includes a restaurant on top. You can see the tower from anywhere in the city.

The most famous mural at the Eastside Gallery

Our destination, the East Side Gallery is the name of the mile long portion of the wall, consisting of 105 paintings by artists from all over the world, painted in 1990 on the east side of the Berlin Wall. According to the Künstlerinitiative East Side Gallery e.V., an association of the artists involved in the project, “The East Side Gallery is understood as a monument to the fall of the Berlin Wall and the peaceful negotiation of borders and conventions between societies and people”, and has more than three million visitors per year.^[1] This was something I had seen so many times in photos and I really wanted to see it for myself. It was amazing. A highlight of our time.

Eastside Gallery

You don’t need to walk the six miles to the East Side Gallery. You can take the subway, busses, taxi or Uber as well as several local tours include it.

Pretzel

We wandered back along the river and stopped at the Tiergarten Biergarten to enjoy a couple of German beers as our amazing time in Berlin was coming to an end. The Biergarten in this beautiful park sits on a tiny little lake and you can enjoy pizza and pretzels, gelato and beer. You can also rent a little row boat and row around the lake. Such a pleasant way to spend a sunny day in this fascinating city.

Berlin for first timers could include a few
more things that we unfortunately didn’t have time to do, mainly going up into the observation dome at the Reichstag. You need to make a reservation to do this, and we just didn’t know that with enough advance notice. I wish we had because I understand it is really amazing. Do it if you can.

With a few more days we also would add some live performances. Berlin has a thriving theater and musical performance scenes including outdoor theatre, symphony and opera.

Biergarten

Finally, a great way to see the area would be by renting a bike. Berlin is as flat as it possibly can be, has literally hundreds of miles of bike lanes and paths, including beautiful paths through forested parks and along rivers. On a beautiful day seeing the city by bike would be a lot of fun.

The view from the River Spree

So there you have it, Berlin for First Timers. I really loved this gritty, indomitable city. Even with all the tourists it felt real and raw. I can’t think of another European city that has witnessed so much history and hosted so much strife and animosity and come out shining on the other side.

Berlin for First Timers. I highly recommend it. Fabulous. Fabelhaft!

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Africa & The Middle East Travel

Morocco on my Mind

Chapter Eleven

November 12, 2017

Laureen

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Location: Morocco

Morocco on my mind. We’ve been in Morocco for 15 days and in Asilah for a week already and I am enchanted. And so very relaxed. Morocco is just about everything I could have hoped for.

View from Our airbnb

Except warm.

No, in November Morocco is not warm. I’ve layered up a lot, buried myself under blankets and comforters at

Tea by the fire

night, and cuddled up by a roaring fire in the evenings. But it’s actually nice. It’s sunny during the day, and comfortable and dry and we know we have heat and humidity coming up in destinations in the near future, so we are enjoying a bit of “winter” in North

Moroccan Harira soup

Africa.

Morocco on my mind.

Casablanca was “meh”, Chefchauoen was “bright”, Tangier was “confusing” but Asilah – ahhhh Asilah. I will never forget you. We are right on the ocean where the crashing waves lull us to sleep. Where our morning coffee and breakfast is served on the terrace with the wind and salt air cooling our coffee mugs. We walk on the beach each morning, with the resident camels, and wander the quiet “off-season” historic medina. We visit the mercado with the locals, no other tourists around and we are both

Mercado

Latifah makes Couscous

accepted and stared at by the amazing variety of residents of this region. Asilah has been a spectacular, laid back, relaxed place to recuperate and regroup on the Grand Adventure. Exactly what the doctor ordered.

Of course our perfect Airbnb plays a major role in how happy we are here. Not only is the space perfect but it comes with Latifah, our personal chef and housemaid who is talented, kind, funny, and one of the hardest working people I have ever met in my life. We have not eaten out at all during our

View from our room

time in Asilah – we have instead allowed the talented Latifah to pamper us beyond reason. And I am so happy.

Morocco on my mind.

Our friends from California Sarah and Steve arrived two days ago and they too are loving Asilah and Latifah and we all are learning to cook the incredible Moroccan cuisine together. Expect a blog soon about the cuisine of this amazing country.

Two weeks in and still two weeks to go. We relax

Beautiful spices

here in Asilah for a few more days and then we pick up the pace again; four days in Fez where we have a lot planned, five days on a tour that includes the desert and then three days in Marrakesh. Feeling satisfied and welcome, enchanted and enthralled in this colorful, ancient and fascinating world.

Morocco on my mind.

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Europe Travel -- Food & Drink

A loaf of bread A Jug of Wine & Thou

Hikers Cannot Live on Bread Alone

September 16, 2017

Laureen

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Location: Camino de Santiago

A loaf of bread, a jug of wine, and thou.” —Omar Khayyam

The sentiment in Khayyam’s words are not lost on me. Particularly as I try to walk my Camino with an open mind for a simple life. Medieval pilgrims certainly would have been grateful for bread alone and may have subsisted solely on it – with a watery soup and wine thrown in from time to time.

Tortilla Espanola

But man I want a salad.

As in most European countries bread is life. In Spain the Panaderia on every corner is busy from the break of day. This is true in the cities and in the small villages we walk through. Some small towns we find the “Bread man” (my term) driving through the streets honking his horn. Kinda like the ice cream man when I was a kid.

Croissant with ham and cheese

Boccadilla

Along the Camino finding food is a bit of a challenge unless you are in a large city. And finding food that includes nice fresh produce is even harder. And dinner before 8pm? Forget about it.

Likely for convenience and cost, the places that pop up for sustenance on the Camino sell baguette sandwiches called bocadilla, or the national dish of Spain, Tortilla Espinosa (an egg and potato torta/omelette), and coffee. Sometimes apples and bananas. This is what is considered both breakfast and lunch food. It’s cheap and easy to carry.

I’ve learned to pick up fresh fruit when I see it and stash it in our pack. Clearly we are a long way from starving but a girl needs something to help her walk 14 miles each day.

Eggplant Hummus

A couple of days ago on a particularly uninhabited stretch of our walk I had ham and cheese on a dry baguette for breakfast, tuna on hard focaccia for lunch and ham and cheese on baguette for dinner.

That was the day I said no more bread. No mas!

And there was the one night we shared a can of tuna and a whole zuchinni while laying in bed.

At the end of each day we can usually find what is

One salad mixta from a very good Peregrino dinner

called the Peregrino Dinner. In every town we have found this except for one. This meal is usually $10-12 Euro and includes two or three courses with choices. The first course may be a choice of salad mixta, soup or pasta. I always get the salad which 99% of the time is lettuce, tomato, canned tuna and maybe carrot and egg.

But the second course is ALWAYS French fries with some meat. You can choose chicken, pork, beef or

This was an excellent salad in Burgos

maybe veal or lamb. No veg.

Sigh. I just want some nice zucchini or spinach or green beans or kale por favor!

One evening we did encounter a Peregrino Dinner with a vegetarian option. I happily ordered the vegetarian paella instead of meat and fries. It was warm and yummy saffron rice with peas, beans, cauliflower and carrots.

In our 16 days on the Camino our best meals have

Catalan soup with pork and pasta

come in the bigger towns. No surprise. I’m still dreaming about the Caesar Salad and Eggplant hummus we had in Pamplona or the beautiful Salad Mixta with fresh tuna, asparagus and beets I had with Catalon soup in Burgos. And the best peregrino meal we enjoyed was a pork knuckle and the first course was fresh baby artichoke hearts with lemon in Puenta la Reina. Happiness on a plate.

Thumbs up for this Paella

And so I’ve grown even more appreciative of fresh food with fresh ingredients and a variety of fruits and vegetables. And when I can’t get it, well I am then grateful on those days for a loaf of bread, a jug of wine and thou.

Go then, eat your bread in happiness and drink your wine with a cheerful heart; – Ecclesiastes 9:7

191 miles done. 298 to go!

Buen Camino!

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