My Fab Fifties Life - Laureen, Author at My Fab Fifties Life

North America Travel

Solo Las Vegas

Fun Things to do Alone in Las Vegas

February 12, 2018

Laureen

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Location: Las Vegas Nevada

Iconic Las Vegas

So how do you Solo Las Vegas? Don’t worry – there are lots of things to do! I wasn’t really sure how this was going to go, but, I have to say, I had a wonderful time enjoying my time alone. I’m not a gambler and I’m not too interested in anything to raunchy or risqué. But there is so much in this city beyond all the “what happens here” stuff. It’s what I love about Vegas. Unfortunately some of the best stuff gets lost behind all the glitz.

So I found myself getting lost in Las Vegas. My sixth time in Vegas is my first time alone here. Why would you come to Vegas alone? Well, it’s a long story, but my husband is camping with college friends in Death Valley (two hours Northwest) and I am in town to run a half marathon. So I decided to take on Vegas solo…just another thing I am learning in my fabulous fifties. Solo Las Vegas is okay. Alone; but certainly not bored in this town.

I booked a room at the Flamingo. We’ve stayed here several times before. The Flamingo definitely has the best pool in town…but, not so much in November. It never occurred to me to check if the pool was open. It wasn’t. Oh well, it is November after-all, but the weather was great and I was looking forward to a little pool time.

Flamingos at the Flamingo

Vegas Tip: Depending on the season, ask questions when you book your room. Vegas is not hot year around, but November is a great time to travel here, as the crowds are down and so are the room rates.

The Flamingo upgraded me to a suite when they were not able to offer me the King bed I had requested. Every time I have been in Vegas I have found the hotels willing to give you upgrades or perks. The rooms are not where they make the money, so they want you happy and a loyal return customer. So ask.

Vegas Tip: Over the years I’ve stayed at the Flamingo, Planet Hollywood and the Monte Carlo. For me, I avoid the “themed” hotels because they are more crowded and noisier with gamblers and shoppers. You are always welcome at any of the hotels whether you are staying or not. So I choose something quieter and smaller and just visit the giant hotels for the fun stuff.

I decided on this visit to check out some things in Vegas I had never done before, including some things in the outlying area. So I rented a car. You don’t need a car if you are planning on staying only on the “Strip”. But if you are in Vegas more than a couple of days, I really recommend getting a car…there are some amazing things to see within a few minutes of the strip and just an hour or two outside of town. It’s safe and the roads are good so a solo Las Vegas trip can include some outlying adventures.

Vegas Tip: Parking is free everywhere. The hotels really want you to come in and gamble, so parking is free and abundant. In my home city of Seattle you will pay $30 or more a night for parking at downtown hotels. Not so in Vegas. Take this perk into consideration in your decision on renting a car.

On this trip I visited three destinations in my car. I recommend all three;

Me in Death Valley

Valley of the Fire State Park – 1 hour Northeast. What a stunning surprise this park was. It is surprising this park is not a National Park. It felt like a miniature Arches or Bryce Canyon. You can easily see this park in a half a day, either from your car or on a handful of wonderful walks or hikes that fit any skill level.

Red Rock Canyon National Monument – 30 min West. Another stunningly beautiful park with a great scenic drive if you don’t want to hike. If you do want to hike there are lots of great little trials though this beautiful park.

Death Valley National Park – 2 hours Northwest. Worth the drive (in the winter or early spring). You can do this trip in a day, or you can stay the night in Furnace Creek. Death Valley is a remarkable place. Several incredible sites are within sight of the main road, showing off the interesting geological aspects of the lowest place in the Western Hemisphere.

Vegas Tip: I did not go this time to Hoover Dam or Lake Mead but these destinations are also an easy drive from the Strip. In addition, Grand Canyon is about three hours away. You can easily make Vegas your home base to experience some of our countries greatest sites.

Back in Vegas I decided to take in two Cirque de Soleil shows during my visit. On previous visits I have seen some of the “showgirl” type of shows (Jubilee, Crazy Girls, Burlesque) and I have also seen Blue Man Group, Wayne Brady, Kathy Griffin and Jersey Boys. I’ve also seen Menopause the Musical several times, both in Seattle and in Las Vegas. This show is hilarious, and continues its long Las Vegas run at Harrahs. Laugh out loud – even if you are on a solo Las Vegas adventure.

Bellagio Glass Ceiling

Solo in Las Vegas I saw the Beatles Love one night and Mystere the next. Cirque shows are all spectacular, but I am always impressed how they can make each show so different. It makes you want to see all the shows. Love and Mystere were very different from each other, as well as very different from the two shows I have seen previously (O, Zumanity and KA). Beatles Love showcased original Beatles recordings including never before heard conversations of the Fab Four in the recording studio. Using these original works Cirque designed a wonderfully nostalgic walk down Beatles memory lane, using their signature acrobatics, special effects and costumes.

Mystere was very different from Love. I laughed out loud so many times during this, fun and light show which excelled not only in comedy but in costuming and definitely in acrobatics. This show included a great deal of audience interaction. I really loved it. And guess what? Being solo, I was escorted from my balcony seat down to row three! Perks for solo Las Vegas!

KA and O remain my all time favorites, but it really is difficult to compare these shows. There is nothing else like them on earth, and that is why they fit so perfectly well in Vegas.

Vegas Tip: Discount tickets can be purchased day of often for 50% off. Don’t expect to find all the shows available though. The very popular shows such as KA, “O”, Celine Dion, or Elton John are rarely available. If you have your heart set on these blockbuster shows buy your tickets before you come to Vegas and be prepared to pay full price.

Fountain at the Bellagio

Of course a fabulous thing to do in Vegas, when you are solo or anytime, is shop! Some of my favorite shopping areas are at The Venetian, The Bellagio and Paris. The Fashion Show Mall, across from The Wynn is also very popular. This trip I was shopping for make up and a new handbag and boy did I have a lot of places to choose from. There are many shopping areas I have still to tackle, so of course I have some great reasons to make another trip to the “Strip”.

The days are over where Vegas was a cheap destination. You still can find inexpensive meals and hotels, but the really hot items are gonna cost you. So if you are on a budget (few of us aren’t) get lost enjoying some of the free entertainment available all around you. You just gotta know where to look. Since I was alone, I really enjoyed just walking around and taking in the sights and sounds. Be sure to stop and see the fabulous fountain show (free) outside of the Bellagio check times here, the amazing atrium indoor garden (changes seasonally) inside the Bellagio (free and one of my top things to do in Vegas), and the belching volcano outside the Mirage check times here.

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Slotzilla in Freemont

Be sure to check out the free light show in Fremont ( one of my top things to do in Vegas). In fact Fremont is really fun, and its too bad more people never get down there. If you are brave enough the a highlight in Fremont is the Slotzilla Zipline! Not free but so much fun! Get your tickets in advance, because it often fills up! I can’t wait to do this again.

People watching is fantastic, interesting, entertaining and free way to spend some time; have a seat and watch the show. Solo Las Vegas you will see rhinestone and sequins next to jeans and t-shirts, and sometimes hardly nothing at all. But it is Vegas. It’s come as you are (or as you want to be) everywhere in Las Vegas.

Vegas Tip: If you are planning on being in town in November or December check into special shopping packages available at many of the hotels. These packages include shuttle services to many of the best shopping malls.

Vegas Tip: Although the Monorail, in my judgement, should extend both North to Fremont and South to the Airport, it currently runs from the MGM North to the Convention Center. Depending on where you want to go, it might be a good choice to help you get around, especially for a solo Las Vegas adventure. Taxi’s are plentiful as well.

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Me on the right – Slotzilla Zipline

Some of my favorite solo Las Vegas sites I discovered on this trip. Not free but for a minimal $18 I highly recommend the wonderful Neon Boneyard Museum, just North of Fremont (free parking). This guided tour is a fascinating walk down Vegas memory lane. A night-time tour (with lights) is also available. This might now be my favorite thing to do in Vegas. For a minimal charge I also recommend the New York New York roller coaster, the trip up the Eiffel Tower and the changing exhibits at the Imagines Exhibitions Gallery at the Venetian. This visit I lost myself here enjoying a most remarkable exhibit of National Geographic photography for only $20. Many people really love the High Roller Wheel. I thought it was just okay.

You do get a good view, and you can have drinks while you make the full circle…it just wasn’t as exciting as I was expecting. But you can’t love everything I guess.

Being a coffee addict, I have to say, finding a good cup of coffee in the hotels is tough. You will pay more for a cup of coffee than you will for a beer a lot of places. No Vegas hotel I have ever stayed in has provided coffee in the room….remember they want you in the casino not in your room. However there are several Starbucks throughout the strip (and other espresso kind of shops) if you are in need. When you are on your solo Las Vegas adventure coffee is a must. And don’t forget, Starbucks always has free wi-fi too, so don’t pay your hotel for wi-fi if you don’t want to.

Vegas Tip: I’ve noticed in the shopping mall areas you will find many shops and restaurants offering wifi. I locked on to free wifi at Sephora of all places while at the Planet Hollywood shopping mall.

I can’t write this whole love-fest article about Vegas without talking about food. You could spend the rest of you life just getting Lost in the Las Vegas food scene. You can spend $2 or $200 or $2000. There is something for every pallet and wallet in Vegas. Now don’t be shy. Just because you are solo doesn’t meant you shouldn’t eat well! Every Celebrity Chef you can think of has a place in Vegas. These Chefs are, of course, not actually in the kitchen. So you are paying for the name. I’ve dined at many of these places not always successfully. I will give a big thumbs up though to Tom Collichio’s Craft Steak at the MGM and

Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill at Caesar’s Palace and Hubert Keller’s Fleur at Mandalay Bay.

Vegas Tip: Check out Top Vegas restaurants and tons of other great information at my favorite Vegas website www.lasvegas.com

High Roller Wheel

Some of the best food I’ve had in Las Vegas are in places where you never heard of the Chef; Hash House A Go Go at the Plaza in Fremont (two other locations as well), Picasso at Bellagio, The Buffet at the Bellagio, the Oyster Bar at Harrah’s, The Border Grill at the Mandalay Bay, Lotus of Siam off strip, and Mon Abi Gabi at Paris, Indian Oven off strip and the iconic Peppermill.

So I survived my four days solo in sin city and I can highly recommend getting lost in Las Vegas, alone or with a friend. You can make Vegas whatever you want; highly charged and fast paced, or slow down relax and enjoy the scenery. It’s a bit of a freak of nature in that way – well, that’s Vegas.

Loose yourself. Solo or not.

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Inspire

My Fab Fifties Life Travel Awards

And the Winner Is…

January 19, 2018

Laureen

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Location: Travel Awards

And the Winner Is…

Oscar nominations this week! A big week if you are a movie fan – which of course I am but since I have not stepped foot in the United States in more than 14 months I haven’t seen any of this year’s big films. But instead I have seen a world of real life drama, fantasy, comedy, mystery and animation. Enough to last a life time. So in keeping with the announcement of this year’s Oscar Nominations, I give to you our picks for World Travel Awards, Best and Worst of 2017 and 2018 – My Fab Fifties Life.

And the winner is…

Hoi An Vietnam

DESTINATIONS

Favorite City – Hoi An Vietnam

By far our favorite destination in Vietnam with it’s colorful old town, beaches, rice fields and fabulous food. We loved this place and the airbnb we stayed in here.

Most Surprising – Namibia

We came to Namibia practically blind, allowing our tour guide from Wild Wind Safaris to hold our hand and we were not disappointed. A spectacular destination I think everyone should visit.

Best Value Destination – Bulgaria

We loved our month in the friendly, beautiful and historic country of Bulgaria where we didn’t

Bulgaria

meet any Americans. Put this inexpensive and great country on your bucket list and go!

Best Overall Scenery – New Zealand

Jaw dropping scenery no matter where you go or which way you look, New Zealand is an

Abel Tasman New Zealand

outdoor enthusiast dream and is stunningly beautiful.

Most Crowded City – Hanoi

The scooters alone make this wild city that never sleeps total chaos. Then add the cars, trucks, carts, pedestrians, vendors and well – its pretty wild.

Most Beautiful City – Split Croatia

Whether you are perusing the mega yachts in the

Diocletian’s Palace, Split

harbor or wandering through Diocletian’s Palace, Split is a magical place and my favorite Croatian city.

Most Interesting City – Fez Morocco

Around every corner as you get lost in Fez there is something interesting and amazing and I enjoyed this maze of a city

Fez Morocco

Most Disappointing City – Tangier Morocco

Getting lost in Tangier is easier but nowhere near as fun as getting lost in Fez. We found Tangier a bit of a disappointment.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Best Airbnb for Service – Asilah Morocco

We adored our “mom” Latifah during our ten days

Latifah unveiling the Tajine

in Asilah and wanted to put her in our suitcase and take her with us. The food and care she gave us was unparalleled.

Best Airbnb Overall – Koh Samui Thailand

We had a lot of discussion over this one. We have been, frankly, so lucky with our airbnb’s. And even this one had a few quirks. But we loved it for the view, the private pool and the car that came with it. It was however, also our most expensive Airbnb. https://myfabfiftieslife.com/sweet-samui/

We loved our private pool in Koh Samui

Most Authentic Airbnb – Siem Reap Cambodia

Staying in an authentic Khmer home in Siem Reap was a treat in itself, but then adding the wonderful breakfasts and services our host provided us made this place one of our all time favs.

Cambodian Khmer House

Most Unusual Airbnb – Motueka New Zealand

Funky Truck

We spent two nights in a funky old truck/camper with an outhouse and it was a hoot.

Most Rustic Airbnb – Hikkaduwa Sri Lanka

We nicknamed this place Castaway Cottage and it was like living on Gilligan’s Island – complete with lots of critters including rats, snakes, mongoose, monitor lizards, gecko and BUGS!

View from our Sozopol Airbnb

Best Value Airbnb – Sozopol Bulgaria

We loved this top floor unit with a huge deck and amazing view. We think we might return to this place some day, only $55 a night.

Best Hotel – Luang Prabang Laos

Luang Prabang Laos

We spent three nights in the beautiful Maison Dalabua hotel in this darling and historic city on the Mekong River and it was one of the nicest hotels I have ever stayed in. From the comfortable and spacious room, the food, the pool, the flowers and the service, everything about it was first class on a budget.

FOOD

Because noodles always put a smile on your face.

Favorite Overall Cuisine – Thailand

This is the best food in the world. Simple, healthy and so flavorful I can’t get enough of Thai Cuisine.

Best Restaurant Meal – Ceverjaria Ramiro Lisbon Portugal, Honorable Mention to Ladja Podlanica in Piran Slovenia

I’ll never forget the dinner we had at Cervejaria Ramiro with our son Erik and his friend

Lisbon Portugal

Salvador who lives in Lisbon. It was a gluttonous evening and I loved every bite. Someday I will go back. In Piran Slovenia with our friends Raymond and Marbi we gorged ourself on the most amazing anchovies in oil followed by spectacular spaghetti

Ladja Padlanika Restaurant in Piran

con vongole. We loved it so very much we went twice.

Worst Food Overall – Camino de Santiago

When we really needed the sustenance the most, our 41 days on the Camino de Santiago provided the least inspiring of food.

Best Cooking Class – Chiang Mai Thailand with Honorable Mention to Cape Town South Africa

I try to take a cooking class in most of the countries we visit, and I do it as much for the cuisine

My favorite Chiang Mai Noodles

and culture as to meet local people who love their food and want to share it. My classes in Chiang Mai (two full days) and my evening class in the home of our instructor in Cape Town South Africa fulfilled what I am always looking for.

Best Beer – Cape Town South Africa and Honorable Mention Piran Slovenia

Capetown because they had a vibrant micro brew scene and good non-lager beers available in most stores and restaurants, and Piran because here my husband had the single best beer he has had since leaving the USA. Don’t know what brand it was but it was a spectacular Slovenian IPA.

Worst Grocery Availability – Seychelles

Hands down the most difficult place to find decent produce and healthy ingredients for day-to-day cooking, we learned to eat a lot of rice, lentils and beans during our month in the

Hmong Village Laos

Seychelles Islands.

CULTURE, NATURE AND EXPERIENCES

Best Authentic Cultural Experience – It’s a tie between Hmong Village Laos and Himba Village Namibia

Seeing these two places will stay with me all my life – when you think about opening your mind to understand cultural

Himba Women and Children

differences, embrace and learn from living hand to mouth and become more tolerant of other cultures – visiting these two places had all that and more.

Best Beach for Scenery – La Digue Seychelles

No wonder Sports Illustrated Swimsuit edition has shot here several times. This place with it’s unique rock formations, sparkling white sand and out of this world blue water is about as spectacular as they come.

La Digue Seychelles

Best Beach for Spending the Day – Meia Praia, Lagos Portugal

It helped that our condo was a short walk to the beach, where we went everyday during our three weeks in Lagos. Golden sand, lots of room to spread out and easy and safe swimming made this our favorite.

Best Day Hike – Tongariro Crossing, New Zealand

An experience I will never forget, climbing the mountain, seeing the volcanic crater and lakes and just accomplishing this feat will always hold a special place for me.

Tongariro Crossing

Most Difficult Day Hike – Climbing Down Table Mountain, Cape Town South Africa

We thought down would be easier. It wasn’t. There were times where I literally didn’t think I was going to make it. My body gave it all I had, and it was

Table Mountain Hike

more than a week before I didn’t hurt.

Best Outdoor Experience – Able Tasman New Zealand

Our three-day Glamping Tour on the Able Tasman was one of the highlights of our time in that country. We were blessed with spectacular weather, met new friends and were introduced to the wonders of New Zealand.

Best Historic Sight – Angor Wat, Siem Reap Cambodia

Angor Wat Cambodia

It was a lifelong dream for me to see Angor Wat and it was not disappointing. The fascinating ancient story that unfolds in these ruins set amidst the friendly and persevering Cambodia people is not something I will ever forget.

Fewest Tourist at a UNESCO World Heritage Site – Dougga Tunisia

Nothing like having an entire UNESCO site to

Tunisia

yourself, and that is exactly what we enjoyed at the beautiful Dougga Roman Ruins in Tunisia. Not many tourists in Tunisia, but slowly they are returning, and we loved our time in this ancient country, cradle of civilization as we know it today.

Best Tour – Namibia

Our ten-day tour with our amazing guide “Seven” introduced us to this unknown country so full of natural wonders and spectacular animals. I love Namibia..

Etosha National Park Namibia

Worst Tour – Three day bus tour of the Mekong Delta Vietnam

This tour was cheap but it wasn’t worth it still. Terrible traffic, over pitched and very touristy. Sorry we went.

Most Unique experience – Camino de Santiago Spain

Even though the food was bad, the experience is now branded on my soul. It changed me and I loved it.

On the Camino

Best Live Performance – Tie Violin Concert Piran Slovenia and Carmina Burana outdoors in Dubrovnik; Honorable Mention to Kandy Cultural Show, Kandy Sri Lanka

Front row seats in a tiny historic theater in beautiful Piran Slovenia made for a special night as we enjoyed a beautiful violinist accompanied by a guitarist. It was just so pleasant. Just as mazing the spectacle that was hearing Carmina Burana performed outdoors in historic Dubrovnik

Carmina Burana performed outdoors in Dubrovnik

town center. Spectacular!

Kudos also to the very authentic Sri Lankan dance, music and firewalker show we enjoyed (also front row seats) in Kandy Sri Lanka.

Best Nature and Animal Experience – Etosha National Park Namibia

I’ve said it before – this country was such a surprise and this National Park was the bomb.

Best Free Experience – Free Walking Tours

Our Free Walking tour guide in Sofia Bulgaria

In nearly every major city you can take what is known as “Free” guided walking tours. These are awesome and we love them because it is always a local guide, someone young and enthusiastic. You tip them at the end – so its not really Free – but it is worth it and we have done this at least ten times. A great value.

Friendliest People – Sri Lanka

Hands down the kindest and friendliest people we

Monk in Sri Lanka

have met – despite all the hardships they have been through; colonialism, monarch assassination , civil war and tsunami. Still they smile. Love them.

Worst Drivers – Vietnam

There are several runners-up here, including Sri Lanka (and we haven’t gotten to India or Bangladesh yet), but still Vietnam takes the prize for the craziest drivers, most dishonest cabbies, scooter

Scooters in vietnam

mania and absolute lack of any pedestrian rights.

Worst Experience – Dog Bite Koh Samui Thailand

Hands down the worst day has been the day Arne was bit by a dog in Koh Samui. The one saving grace is it could have been much worse. But still it makes me angry and the overall feral dog situation in Thailand makes me question whether I will ever visit again.

Experience I liked More Than I thought I would – Camel Ride, Erg Cheba, Sahara Morocco

The colors and the light of the desert at dusk, the animals, the other guest from around the

On the camel trek in Morocco

world and having this experience with our friends Sarah and Steve all added up to a very fun two days and one night camel trek in the desert.

Least English Spoken – Spain

Only in the last decade has English been taught in schools, so few adults are fluent. Especially in the small towns and villages on the Camino we did a lot of pointing and hand charades to communicate. It was fun!

WEATHER

Hottest – Seychelle’s and Honorable Mention Doha, Qatar

We saw some rain in the Seychelles but it was never

Seychelle Islands, Praslin

under 85 degrees and the water was like a bathtub. We only spent one night in Doha Qatar, but it marked the hottest one day on the

Doha Qatar

trip at 113 F.

Coldest – New Zealand

We were in New Zealand in the fall and we had a few nights were the temperature dropped in the 30’s. Living in the Kiwi Karavan we wore hats and coats and wool socks to bed to stay

New Zealand

warm.

Worst Rain Storm – Tie between Hua Hin Thailand and Koh Samui Thailand

After a two hour taxi ride turned into a five hour taxi ride in a monsoon we arrived in flooded Hua Hin Thailand not sure what we had gotten ourselves into.

More than once the sky opened up in Koh Samui, accompanied by flashing lighting and booming thunder.

Best Sunrise – It’s a tie between Napier New Zealand and Galicia Spain

I’m a sucker for a good sunrise, and we have seen

Napier New Zealand

some amazing ones but these two stand out above and beyond for the sheer majesty of the experience.

Best Sunset – La Digue Seychelles (see cover photo)

Mother’s Day Dinner in La Digue we watched the sunset from a beach restaurant and it was a religious experience.

TRAVEL

Favorite Airline – Emirates

They know how to treat their passengers, even those of us in Coach

Least Favorite Airline – Air Maroc

The only airline (after 37 flights) to lose our luggage. Eventually it was found. Plus the smell of something (not cigarettes) burning during approach. Ack.

Best Airport – Hamad International Qatar

A very user-friendly and beautifully designed airport.

Teeniest Airplane – Air Seychelles

Eight seats. ‘Nuff Said.

Most Expensive Visa – India

We haven’t even arrived in India yet, but it was hands down the most expensive Visa we have purchased and one of the most difficult online applications. Hopefully when we arrive tomorrow everything will be in order!

Easiest Airport Entry – Capetown South Africa

We breezed through passport and customs so fast in Capetown we were totally surprised.

Worst Airport Entry – tie between Siem Reap Cambodia and Carthage Tunisia

In both cases we got in the wrong line. The line with the guy who was arrogant and pompous and was going to make every passenger know he was the boss. Any sign of dissatisfaction could get you pulled out of line and make your life hell. And so we waited.

Lucky Girl. Fabulous Life Award.

So there you have it. The winner of the Fab Fifties version of the Oscars for 2017-2018. But you do know, the real winner is me. Me and my husband. The luckiest people on the planet. Who needs a little gold statue when you have a Fab Fifties Life?

What a fabulous life it is.

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Africa & The Middle East Travel

Namibia Part II

Oh The Places You’ll Go

December 10, 2017

Laureen

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Location: Namibia

Namib Desert

Namibia quickly became one of my favorite countries for its varied landscape, colorful cultures and interesting history. So although I did not see the entire country, Namibia Part II is an opportunity for me to share a bit about what I saw and learned during my fascinating ten days touring with Wild Wind Safaris. Namibia Part II – Oh the Places You’ll Go.

Only a few years ago Namibia never showed up in articles or blogs about travel destinations. But then all of the sudden there it was – stunning photos of dunes and mountains, animals and oceans. Article after article listing it as a must see destination of 2017 or an out of the way place to see before the crowds of tourists discover it.

The furthest south latitude at which the sun is directly overhead at the solstice.

And so, I wanted to be there. I wanted to see what few people had yet seen. Namibia was high on my list.

Don’t get me wrong – there are plenty of tourists, and plenty of tour operators and companies to help you find your way (check out the company we used and were so happy with: Wild Wind Safaris). But we didn’t meet any other Americans, and 99% of the tourists we met were German. Germans know about this place and flock here, partly because German is spoken here as is English, Afrikaans and tribal languages.

Most visitors come to go on safari in Etosha

Magnificent

National Park and it is a must of any visit to Namibia (see blog here). Etosha is not even remotely as crowded as the safari I did seven years ago in the Serengeti with about a million other people. Etosha was quiet and beautiful and amazing.

Sociable Weaver nest can House up to 200 birds

But a trip to Namibia really needs to include time to see and experience more than Etosha. I’ve come away from the country with an even greater appreciation of the remarkable geology of our earth, and an incredible insight to the importance of preserving cultures and not just objects and nature.

Our guide explains to Arne

Until 1990 Namibia was part of South Africa (and from 1884 until after WWI it was a German colony). Gaining its independence the country has embraced tourism but being such a new country it still has its share of problems. Like many places we have been, government corruption takes much away from the average person and tribal cultures suffer. But the roads were remarkably good (even though Namibia has the highest car accident death rate in the world) and the people we met (mostly in the service industry) were incredibly friendly both with each other and us. In fact some of the friendliest and most genuine people we have met anywhere in our travels are the Namibians. That really hit home. We never felt like we were unsafe or being cheated in anyway – although warnings of pick pockets we took seriously.

Himba women with mud hut

Namibia has 13 ethnic groups scattered about the country and the native people identify with an ancestral tribe even if they no longer live in the region where that group is. Our amazing tour guide “Seven” explained to us some of the differences and he could look at nearly every person and know immediately what ethnic group they were from. Since we didn’t see the entire country we missed learning about most tribes, including the Owambo of the north, the tribe Seven is from.

We did get to learn about two distinctive tribes – the Himba and the Damara as well as a little bit about the Herero, an offshoot of the Himba.

Little Himba girl

Using smoke to “wash” hair

One of my favorite experiences of the entire ten days was our short visit to a special Himba village where we were able to meet Himba women and children. Note the photos of these remarkable people. These are not costumes. This is the way they dress everyday. The hair style is really remarkable, and a female Himba begins wearing this hairstyle at puberty. The adornments are made partially of their real hair and animal hair and are updated every three months. Because of the shortage of water in the north of Namibia where the Himba people are found, they do not bath with water. Instead they daily “wash” their hair with smoke – literally holding their head as well as their underarms over a special perfumed smoke (similar to incense) that keeps bugs and (most) odor away. They also cover their bodies daily with a mixture of butter and ochre as a cleanser and repellant, this is what lends the red tone to their skin.

Me with ten-year old girl

The village we visited was a special place because all the children here are orphans. This is a place where Himba orphans are brought to be raised in the culture of their parents rather than being adopted out of the culture. The women here care for these children as if they are their own and there is a school here too. The people are sustained by raising goats and cattle and they have access to a well so water is available but their bathing customs remain the same.

Damara village

As we visited the women let us take photos and then they wanted to look at the photos on our phones. They seem to very much like to see themselves in a photo. The women’s first question to us was if we had children. When we said we had grown sons they wanted to know if we had grandchildren. When I said not yet they wanted to know why not? Why had we not yet chosen wives for our sons? My answer that our sons would hopefully marry someday and have kids didn’t seem to satisfy them. Their entire existence and culture is wrapped around family, child-bearing and daily survival.

Once again I am reminded of how many people live every day hand to mouth.

Dancers at Damara village

We did not visit a Herero village but these people endured near genocide by the Germans who wanted their land and intended to eliminate the Herero race to have it and the 1904 Battle of Waterberg ensued. Half of the total Herero population was

Herero Women

killed. Luckily not all were massacred and today the women have developed a very unique dress that is a unique mix of Victorian gown and petticoat and a unique cloth headpiece that is designed to resemble the horns of a cow. Today the Herero people continue a battle in court with the German government for retribution for all they lost during the genocide period.

Damara man building fire

Swakopmund pier

The Damara people, the other tribe we learned about, are the oldest tribe in Namibia. They came from the East and settled in the middle region of the country. This tribe was primarily hunter gatherers and pastoral, raising cattle and sheep and living off the land. The Damara have an incredibly unique language known as “click” language. The language uses a complicated system of mouth and tongue clicks and is very musical and fun to hear. The village we visited was a reproduction of how a village would have looked hundreds of years ago. Where the Himba live in huts made from wood, mud and cow dung, the Damara live in huts made of wood and thatch. The Damara dress was tied to the animals they raised creating clothing from

Damara Medicine Woman

sheepskins. The women use ochre on their cheeks much like we use blush today. Music and dance and making ornamental jewelry and carvings were a big part of their culture, where the women did domestic chores and the men tended the livestock.

Cape Cross Fur Seal colony

Pink Flamingoes in Walvis Bay

The geology and scenery of Namibia is as diverse as its ancient people. The incredibly beautiful red sand dunes of the Sossusvlei region are the oldest dunes in the world and the stark beauty of these dunes is remarkable. The turquoise blue water of the Atlantic Ocean at Swakopmund in contrast provides visitors and locals a cool get-away from the heat of the interior. Here on the Atlantic the fog settles every day and so do thousands and thousands of fur seals, flamingoes and other shore birds. Local seafood is a treat including the KingKlip and Kabaljou two of the most popular and most delicious fish caught locally and served everywhere.

Welwitschia plant

Dolerite Dike

From the ocean heading east within minutes you are back in the arid desert where the welwitschia plant grows – the only region in the world this unusual plant is found and growing as big as ten feet across and living as much as 2000 years I was reminded of Audrey Two in Little Shop of Horrors. The inhospitable environment has little greenery and almost no animals except birds. The valley of the moon and eroding mountain range are desolate yet beautiful in their own way – especially the interesting dolerite dike a natural phenomenon of black sunburnt rock that runs along the ridge of the mountains like the spine of a dragon. This area is home to the largest Uranium mine in the world.

Ancient rock etchings

ANcient rock etchings

Namibia’s storage hunter-gatherers and Bushman (San) people were nomadic and traveled the country wherever the animals were. Their history is written on stones in several regions and we visited two fascinating sights to learn more. The Twyfelfontein site is today a UNESCO Heritage site in the Kuene region. Guides take visitors on a walking tour of the hundreds of rock etchings estimated to be several thousands of years old. The etchings depict animals as well as human footprints and tell a story of the nomad life and the animals they followed for substenance. It is thought this place was both a message board and a spiritual gathering place for thousands of years.

“The White Lady” is the pale figure on the left

More paintings

Even more amazing though was the preserved painting of “The White Lady” estimated to be 6000 years old. This painting is located in a very remote region of the Brandberg Mountain, Namibia’s highest mountain. It is a two mile hike to visit it. Not as many people see The White Lady because the trek and the heat make it difficult. I’m glad we endured it however in 100 degree temperatures. Very different than the rock etchings, these paintings are preserved because they are inside a cave and out of direct sunlight. Discovered in 1918 and now a protected heritage site, the White Lady is actually not a lady at all. Early anthropologists believed it to be an Egyptian women, but today archeologist know it is a local tribal shaman, painted with the traditional white a shaman would have on his legs and body from dust and mud. The painting includes other human figures and many animals all painted with ochre (red), egg, animals oils, charcoal and blood. The painting has luckily withstood the test of time, although since its discovery humans have touched it and thrown liquid on it to try and see it better and this has deteriorated it. Today though it is protected and can only be reached with a guide who makes sure no one does any damage to it. It was a beautiful and remarkable world heritage site to enjoy.

Moon landscape

The Namibian people have a great deal to be proud of and I hope this beautiful country overcomes its problems and finds its strength in the world. It has so much to offer, charm and beauty, history and culture. I will never forget my time here and I can say with all seriousness it is by far my favorite African country of the seven I have been to.

Thank you Namibia. Thank you Wild Wind Safaris. Thank you Seven for showing us your remarkable home.

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Africa & The Middle East Travel

Namibia Part I

The Lion Sleeps Tonight

December 8, 2017

Laureen

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Location: Namibia

Once again I am astounded. Astounded by a place I knew so little about. I am so thankful we came to Namibia. Incredible

Good morning

Namibia.

I know only three people who have been to this country. I wasn’t sure what to expect but I was open to the adventure I thought it would provide. And I was not disappointed. Only lightly touched by tourism, Namibia is an astonishingly beautiful place and if you have the means you should see it now – because it will change. It always does.

This is an Oryx

There is so much to share about our ten days here, so I’ve decided two blogs are in order and I am starting with the most obvious and most well-known topic of Namibia – the Etosha National Park and the safari we did there.

Why did the giraffe cross the road?

I did a safari seven years ago in Tanzania with my son and sister, but this was a first for Arne and I really worried he might not get to see all the “big game” safaris are known for; elephants, zebras, lions, giraffes, rhinoceros. I needn’t have worried. Yes, we saw all of those and much, much more.

I booked our tour of Namibia with Wild Wind Safaris about six months ago. The tour was $4500 for the two of us for ten days. We could have seen Namibia on our own without a tour guide, the roads (although often gravel) are very good and easy to get around. But our guide “Seven” (a childhood nickname from his football number) provided us with what we learned to call “African eyes”, and the value of that can not be understated. He knew the answer to all of my endless questions and if he didn’t, he found the answer and got back to me within in minutes. He described

With our guide Seven

plants and geology, politics and population, and of course knew facts about animals and wildlife I would never possibly have known. I highly recommend both Seven and Wild Wind Safaris if you want a great experience in Namibia.

So this tour was an anniversary gift to ourselves and although definitely more than our usual $200 a day budget, it was worth every penny.

At the watering hole

The animals in Etosha National Park are varied and abundant. The park has supplemented the natural watering holes around Etosha with some manmade ones, providing constant water in this arid and hot environment. This way the animals stay within the park boundaries and are protected and visible to the guests.

There are still problems with poachers, who specifically target both the black and white rhinoceros in the park. They kill the animals and then cut off their

The beautiful and endangered black Rhinoceros

horns which are then smuggled and sold in the Chinese market. Although this is entirely illegal it is still a problem Namibia struggles with. In fact park officials regularly sedate and cut off the horns of the animals to keep the poachers from killing them. The horns grow back and are made of a material similar to fingernails so it doesn’t cause the animal pain.

Hunting is against the law throughout Namibia (except on some private game hunting reserves), which has changed the culture of many hunter-gatherer tribes and some of the people are extremely poor. But game is also farmed in Namibia and you will often find farmed

Springbok are abundant

game on the menu. Oryx is very popular and tastes just like beef.

With Seven’s guidance we spent our early morning searching for animals – a great time of day for successful sightings. We then would return to the lodge and relax, maybe take a nap or lay around the pool, before heading out again for a late afternoon game drive. You are not allowed to get out of the vehicle for any reason within the park, so having just Arne and I in the vehicle with Seven gave us lots of ability to view the wildlife and go everywhere in the park.

Zebra is the favorite meal for the lions

My photos tell the story of all the incredible creatures we encountered – but only to a point. It’s hard to describe the thrill of moment and how sudden and spontaneous and unplanned it all can be. So often it would just take your breath away. Let me tell you about a few of my favorite moments;

Our first early morning drive we set out with Seven feeling confident we would find lions. We had been out for about two hours and with his “African Eyes” he spotted the three “boys” he knew were often in the area. These lions cubs were about five months old, still young and cub-like but looking full-grown. We watched them from a distance of about 200 yards trot and gallop purposefully across a field,

Lion reunion

ignoring all the animals they usually hunt in the area. They were intent on one thing. Mom. She lay about 30 yards ahead of us on the road. We positioned ourselves and watched in anticipation as the playful and loving reunion took place. The boys happy to be back from whatever adventure they had been on – back with mommy.

This same family we saw several times after that with the magnificent full-maned father (shown in the title photo) proudly watching over his pride. We watched the mating process (in fact got it on video) and these animals truly seemed like a family.

One of the five month old boys

We saw many lions during the rest of our visit but other “cats” were elusive, until one afternoon.

We were exploring several of the water holes in the car but hadn’t seen very many animals. But we noticed that at one water hole the giraffes seemed a bit on alert, staring off into the brush. We watched for a long time but nothing happened so just as we were rolling forward to turn around and leave I spotted a rhino coming out of the trees. So Seven parked the car at an angle where I could get some good photos and we watched. The rhino walked down to the water hole, but never drank – he turned and walked back to the woods. This seemed curious and just then I noticed a lion alone on the other side of the waterhole. “Seven there is a lion” I said. He looked and nearly jumped for

Hard to see from a distance but this is our leopard

joy! “That’s a leopard!” he nearly yelled. “Oh my god a leopard and we are the only ones here at the watering hole!” What a great moment that was. The leopard, though too far to get a really good photo of, was so well camouflaged I couldn’t believe it. He took his time drinking his fill and then quietly disappeared back into the brush. Only then did the rhino return to enjoy his own cool drink. A very rare sighting indeed.

Spotting the endangered Black Rhino was one of my goals as this animal had eluded me when I was in Tanzania. We actually saw many rhinos during our time in Etosha and they are huge, magnificent and very pre-historic looking creatures. But two special moments stand out.

As we were leaving the watering hole and chatting excitedly about our leopard encounter we came around a corner on the dusty gravel road and startled a lone

The beautiful black Rhino at the watering hole after dark

rhino very close to the road. He didn’t like being surprised and he charged our car. I’ll never forget the look on that gigantic creatures face as he lowered his head and charged, while Seven put the car in reverse and I fumbled to get my seatbelt on. He snorted and stared us down but never actually hit the car. Not an animal you want to mess with. Seven told us because he had his head down and was feeding as we came around the corner we had frightened him. Also, because of the poachers these intelligent animals have learned to be wary of vehicles and being snuck up on.

Later that night Arne and I went to the watering hole near our lodge. This hole is designed with night vision lighting that does not bother the animals, but allows people to view the animals from seats at a distance. Every night we went to see what was happening at the watering hole, and on this special night a mama rhino arrived with a teeny little baby.

Giraffe taking a sip

Watching the two of them, never more than a few inches from each other, was a special sight.

For as important as water is to all these animals, watching the effort it takes a giraffe to have a long cool drink is astonishing. Giraffes cannot hold their head down for very long because it cuts off their blood flow. It also puts them in a very vulnerable position to predators, so a giraffe takes a long time to consider its surrounding before finally spreading its long and skinny legs wide and dipping its camel-like face into the water. What a strange and beautiful beast.

Speaking of strange and beautiful, I have saved my favorite animal for last. We saw every animal from Impala to Zebra, Ostrich to Wildebeast, Jackal to Hyena, Warthog to

Ostrich

Tortoise and hundreds of birds. But my favorite always is the intelligent, magnificent, domestic and loving elephant. And we saw so many and have many memorable moments:

The elephant throws mud on itself in an effort to keep cool and keep off the insects. This creates what is known either as a white elephant or a black elephant depending on the mud. We watched as elephants sprayed the mud and played in the water. We saw elephants nearly pure white amongst the green leaves, we saw

My favorite photo of this bull at sunset

white elephants as the sun set looking just like a white concrete statue.

The younger male elephants (bachelors) roam together while the older males usually are associated with a matriarchal group, but don’t spend time together. The matriarchal group is made up of females and babies and “teenagers”. The male teens leave the group at about 15 years. The female elephants spend all their life together. Once again the watering hole provided us a spectacular venue to witness

Elephant parade

these family ties.

One evening we arrived at the watering hole to find two males – one much older than the other. We watched as the younger male began vocalizing as the matriarchal group made its way out of the trees. The older male took this as his cue to exit right, while the younger male greeted both vocally and physically each female as she came near the water hole. The younger male, clearly part of this family, then left the females and youngsters to enjoy the water as he went on his way.

Magnificent

On another evening at the watering hole we watched a small fox running across the sand directly towards a giant elephant drinking. As the fox neared the feet of the elephant he reared up and sprayed water all over the fox – clearly showing who is the boss. The poor little fox scampered away.

The morning we were leaving the park, we had already checked out of our room and only gone about 100 yards down the road and Seven spotted elephants in the distance – with a brand

Our final sighting. Perfect.

new baby in tow. We turned immediately around and headed back to the lodge and the watering hole where we watched for twenty minutes as this new mother, another small male and this itsy bitsy newborn, no more that two or three days old, drank. The baby wanted to wallow around and the mama kept him near to her and out of the mud. Seven told us this was a young female, younger than usually reproduce, probably about ten years old. But she seemed to have a good maternal instinct and watching this

A front row seat

little group was a joyful and satisfying way to end our time in Etosha.

This blog was long, but we had such a great experience in Etosha and in Namibia. I hope you enjoyed reading about it. I’ll be writing more soon, about the people and places of this unique country, but in the meantime, the lion sleeps tonight.

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Africa & The Middle East Travel

Some days the Grand Adventure just isn’t grand

A rough start in Namibia

November 29, 2017

Laureen

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Location: Namibia

It was a tough travel day. Maybe as I’m getting older those days are getting harder? Long travel days can take a toll, and some days on the Grand Adventure just aren’t Grand.

No flights direct to Namibia from Morocco. We flew from Casablanca to Doha Qatar. The nine-hour flight was fine. Full plane but 787 is a nice plane so comfortable. Three hour layover in Doha was fine. Eleven hour flight from Doha to Windhoek Namibia, also a 787, was strangely empty. So we

Welcome to Namibia

could stretch out and sleep. But then Arne started to feel poorly, and then really sick.

My husband never gets sick – it’s always me.

Landed in very hot Windhoek and began the six-hour drive on gravel road to our desert lodge. When we arrived at the beautiful lodge Arne immediately went to bed. Where he stayed for the next 24 hours.

Meanwhile I go to dinner with our guide (whose name is Seven)and the two other guests who are with us for only the first three days. We enjoyed

Our cabin at the beautiful Agama River lodge

dinner and a lovely native song and dance by the staff.

Woke up at 5:00am for our tour to the UNESCO site of the Namib Desert dunes but Arne was still sick. So I head off on the tour. About an hour down the road I am hit with a wave of nausea, cold sweat and shakes. We pull over and I dash behind a bush. Ugh.

Seven decides to take me a half an hour back to a clinic so I can rest there while they continue with

At the clinic

the tour. I felt bad and didn’t want the other guests to miss the tour so this seemed like a good solution. We were lucky to be near this clinic as the next one was hundreds of miles away.

I was the only person at the clinic where I was given some drugs for stomach virus and tucked into bed where I slept for nearly six hours before being retrieved by Seven and returned to the lodge. I found Arne still in bed but awake.

Now that we are feeling better, looking forward to seeing lots of wildlife

So we did not get to see the famous dunes, the world’s oldest. And we did not get to celebrate our wedding anniversary. But sometimes shit happens. We are still both not 100% but are eating again and back on the tour. Lots more to see in the next week so happy to be on the mend.

Mama said there would be days like this. Welcome to Namibia!

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Inspire

One Year of Travel

The Grand Adventure Abroad

November 26, 2017

Laureen

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One full year. On the move. Out of the USA. Living the Grand Adventure.

Yes it’s already been a year. So very much has happened. So many miles we’ve traveled. And I am not the same.

Thailand

58,000 Miles

Living outside of the United States as an American creates such an amazing opportunity to really understand privilege and gluttony and consumerism. These words I use not only because I am guilty of these things but it is how much of the rest of the world sees Americans. Not flattering.

Cambodia

What is a surprise is when we are able to spend quality time with someone we meet in our travels and change their view of the average American. This means more to me than most anything else over the past year.

My eyes have been opened, looking back to the USA and my friends there, I now clearly see two kinds of people – those who embrace this image of Americans and cultivate it greedily, happily and knowingly, and those who acknowledge it but want to change it.

To each his own. I know both kinds. But as for me and my travels, there is only one way to

Vietnam

move forward in our travels and that is to do anything and everything to debunk the image. In my own little way – one human at a time. One country at a time. This is not what I expected when I started this journey but it is important to me now more than ever.

23 Countries

New Zealand

We get asked the same questions over and over, and always the first question is “what has been your favorite so far?”. It’s become a little joke. We keep telling each other we need to come up with an answer to this question. But we honestly don’t have a favorite. We have favorite things about every place we have been. We have things we disliked about many places. Mostly our favorite thing is the surprises and education we get from staying a long

Laos

time in a place and really feeling the culture, the food, the religion, the life of the place. That by far is our favorite thing. I’ve changed in my travel goals – loving the days we truly are not tourists, the days we are able to haltingly communicate in someone elses language, the days we blend in. Not the things I was expecting – but definitely

New Zealand

the most meaningful of all our “favorite” things.

We’ve learned most people are sincerely nice and helpful and interested in telling us about their country. They are proud and patriotic. And yet so many countries are oblivious to trash and litter and pollution and it can really be astonishing. Feral cats and stray dogs another big problem in so many countries – as a visitor you notice these things, all while being acutely aware that many people have very little and live on the street as well. In some countries people just can’t worry about dogs and

Portugal

trash – they are just trying to find their next meal. It would be nice to see governments addressing all these issues. But, none of these things stop us from visiting these places. It is part of the Grand Adventure.

I’ve become more aware of the negative impact tourism has on many places and I am uncomfortable contributing to that. Europe is very different in 2017 than the first time I visited 1988. We are tourists some days, while other days we steer away to less traveled and under the radar destinations. But in a global world things begin to

Bulgaria

feel the same – tchosky souvenirs start to look the same in Bulgaria and Morocco. Locally handcrafted? Not likely.

We’ve learned to sleep in beds hard and soft and eat every imaginable cuisine. We’ve learned food is a great introduction to culture and a great conversation starter but also a comfort when we feel a bit homesick. A good taco makes me happy when I miss our old life.

6 Mexican Restaurants in 4 countries

We embrace technology for communicating with our children and parents and for tracking so

Seychelles

much of our travel details. I do miss my kids but speak with them frequently and marvel at their own personal journey each is on. I think the coming Christmas season I’ll feel their absence the most.

Speaking of holidays, they go by in a blur. Other than Christmas last year in Thailand, most places

Bulgaria

we have been,holidays have shown little consumerism and celebration. In the USA we embrace every little holiday from St. Patrick’s Day to Halloween and have our own unique set of holidays that we make a big to do over such as Thanksgiving and Fourth of July.

19 holidays abroad

Croatia

Holiday celebrations in countries we have been in so far focus mostly on family and religion and food and almost not at all on buying things and decorations or gift giving. I think it used to be this way in America, but our focus is different now. As for me, I no longer want the gifts to give or receive. The experiences we are having are the best gift of all.

Slovenia

Sometimes a holiday sneaks up on us. Because we spend much of our time not even knowing what day or month it is. When it’s 85 degrees in February or 32 degrees in April my brain and body get confused. Am I above or below the equator? Is it winter or summer? What country am I in? What day is it? It’s actually a bit scary how often we have to stop and think about these simple questions.

I’ve learned how little you need in a day-to-day life

Portugal

to feel satisfied. Although I did get pretty tired of the three sets of clothes I wore over and over on the Camino, in general I don’t desire more than what we currently have in our suitcase. It’s enough. I have what is comfortable and works for our life. I still have one pair of shoes in the suitcase that I’ve only worn twice in a year – the low black heel. I keep looking at those thinking I should throw them away.

Lost luggage once. Found luggage once.

I’ve learned to live without a clothes dryer and sometimes without a washing machine. No dishwasher, no movies, no American TV. Don’t miss it. Don’t need it.

I’ve also changed as far as what I would describe as “beauty ritual”. Water conservation in most

Camino

countries makes me realize I don’t need to shower and wash my hair every day as I used to. I no longer wear makeup (except on a rare occasion) and my hair is easy and manageable with a washing every few days. And nobody cares. Really. One more thing I can let go of for now at least (and I still get so many compliments on the grey).

3 hair cuts

Occasionally I have a nesting urge – when I miss my

Spain

house and garden – but it’s rare. Sometimes I see things I’d like to buy for a future home but I check myself. Sure the Moroccan rugs are stunning – but, I really don’t know what my next house will look like so I walk away. Save my money for an experience instead of a thing.

Our “home” over the past year, and actually over the past 19 months since we closed the door and walked away from our house in Gig Harbor, our home has been wherever we are at the moment. When people ask where we are from we say the United States, Washington or Seattle, depending on who we are talking to. And if we meet someone from the Pacific Northwest we say Gig Harbor. But really none of

Tunisia

those places are home. Where is home? Right this minute as I write this it’s Morocco. In a few days it will be Namibia. On Christmas it will be South Africa. Home is where I am with Arne at this moment.

27 Airbnb’s

63 other lodgings (boats, hotels, apartments, Kiwi Caravan and Albergues includes 41 nights on the Camino)

I read more than I ever have in my entire life. I walk more than I ever thought possible. Yoga is a very important part of our lives to keep us going. I challenge myself at almost 58 years old in ways I could never, would never have even considered at 28 or 38. I see myself in an entirely different way than I did just ten years ago. I am better, stronger, smarter, happier and more relaxed than at any other time in

Morocco

my life.

This is not a coincidence. It is entirely by design.

I want to influence and encourage other people to seek happiness for themselves. Not my kind of happiness but yours – whatever that is. I ignore those who push negativity towards me – and yes they are out there. Masquerading as “friends” on Facebook while criticizing our life, our message, our politics our choices and our success. I don’t ask or expect everyone to understand this journey I’m on. But it’s not about you is it? It’s about us and it is exactly what we needed and when we needed it.

Morocco

62 books read

20 pounds lost

2446 miles walked

And every day of this journey, nearly every minute of it and every mile has been spent with my best friend Arne. People have asked if we get tired of each other? Nope. In fact the opposite. We find we are the best companions – encouraging and collaborating better now than ever in our entire lives. It’s both a test and a testament to our relationship and how we have developed it and defined it over the years. We celebrate our wedding anniversary tomorrow as a matter of fact. Yes we do, it seems like we have been married forever, and

Vietnam

I hope forever is how long we will be together.

35 years

And now year two begins. Can I do this forever? I doubt it. Some times it’s exhausting and frustrating. Those times are infrequent though so I think I can do it for quit a while longer. So for the next six months we have ten more countries before heading back to the USA for a two and a half month visit. Then we will finish year two back in Europe and Africa. We are already toying with ideas for year three. But it’s a bit too soon. Let’s not get

The family last Christmas in Thailand

ahead of ourselves. Take it just a few months at a time is best.

Thank you for sticking with us this past year and continuing to love our blog because the blog is a labor of love for me. Tomorrow we fly to Namibia for ten days then on to South Africa where we plan to really relax for three weeks as we end 2017. A year for the record books!

One year. One fabulous year! Year two here we come!

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Africa & The Middle East Travel

Five Days Fes to Marakesh

Chapter Eleven Comes to an End

November 22, 2017

Laureen

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Location: Morocco

One month in Morocco has been marvelous. We have seen so very much, and still there is much to see – so we will return one day. But for now, I am so happy to have experienced this magical and friendly country – especially the past five days as we have traversed the diverse geography from Fes to Marrakesh.

We hired a guide to show us parts of Morocco we

With our guide Abdul

would find difficult to reach on our own – and I am so glad we did. Our fantastic guide Abdul from Your Morocco Tours was amazing(5 days only $250 per person). He safely drove us for five days and was funny, interesting and proud of his country and his heritage.

Have I mentioned how friendly everyone is?

Ziz Valley

With our friends Steve and Sarah we left Fes on a Saturday morning for the long but beautiful drive. We began to climb into the mountains only a few hours out of Fes. Eventually we made it to the beautiful Ziz Valley. Here we began to see the red rocks and reddish pink buildings I had always imagined when I thought of Morocco. Although the white and blue and green and grey we had seen up to this time was beautiful in its own way – this red color of the desert against the green of

Desert sunset

the date palm trees made me feel I was part of a movie set.

Have I mentioned how great all the roads are?

After a long day of driving we arrived in the desert, just in time for a spectacular sunset over the Sahara. It was breathtaking. I didn’t want it to end. Awash in orange from sand to sky it was spectacular.

We then continued a short distance into the dunes to our spectacular hotel called Kasbah Azalay. Stunning. How can this be our hotel when we paid so little for this tour? Not only was it pretty in a very Moroccan way but the service and hospitality was perfect. We enjoyed a lovely tagine for dinner

On the camels

and a good nights sleep.

A more leisurely day was on hand for Sunday and after breakfast we climbed the dunes and shopped for scarfs in the town of Merzouga. We then enjoyed a visit to the village of Kamila where we sipped mint tea and listened to the authentic Gnaoua music of the region performed by the ancestors of the original Sudanese slaves who were brought here five hundred years ago. Their efforts to preserve their culture and music are commendable and we danced and had a great time with them.

Have I mentioned that this country, more than any other, is where I want to buy things – pottery, rugs, leather? I am restraining myself.

Late in the afternoon we arrived at the staging area for our camel trek into the desert. To be completely accurate it’s actually a dromedary trek. Camels are the beasts with two humps. The animals with one hump are technically dromedaries, but everyone calls them camels so, hey, whatever!

On the camel trek with arne

I wasn’t really sure how this was going to go – was it scary? Painful? Smelly? Actually, it was a teeny bit painful – but mostly just fun. The dromedaries were not smelly, they didn’t spit or bite, but once you are sitting up on one, you realize this ain’t no horse. Wow. They lumber along and your leg muscles feel the movement, but honestly the next day it was my arms that were sore, from trying to hold on when the camel goes down a hill, or sits down.

There were ten of us riding and after an hour and half on the camel, including a stop to watch another spectacular Sahara sunset, we arrived at the nomad camp. We were assigned tents with beds and served tea while we waited for another group of 18 to arrive. When they did we all had dinner together (tagine) and then a bonfire and music around the fire. By this time the temperature had plummeted and we put all our clothes on including wool socks and hats and snuggled under the covers for the night.

Have I mentioned there are more stars in the sky in Morocco? Billions.

Wake up at 6am and you immediately feel the pain in your legs (and crotch) and arms. Yikes. But back on the camel we go, even before I get a cup of coffee. Ugh. I was hoping my camel knew the way to the nearest Starbucks, but instead he took us out of camp into the dunes to watch the sunrise. Surreal. And way better than Starbucks.

Dunes

After the sunrise and a thousand more photos we were back in the saddle and headed back to town, where we were served a nice breakfast (with plenty of coffee) and had a hot shower before we reconnected with our guide Abdul and began day three of our tour.

We drove away from the dunes and into the amazing Moroccan red rock canyons and gorges. A

Todgha Gorge

truly surprising area of Morocco I had never even heard of. The Todgha Gorge was stunning and we enjoyed it late in the afternoon where the 1000 foot walls had sunlight on the tops, but the river was in the shadow of the mountains. We also visited a remarkable fossil museum where we learned about

Fossils

the 500 million year old ocean fossils found in this area and another place where we learned about the ingenious well and aqueduct system the Berber people built to access and save water from the

Ancient wells

Atlas mountains 300 years ago.

Have I mentioned how diverse the geography is? From ocean to desert to mountains to rivers to lakes.

Finally we arrived in the Dades Gorge, another amazing marvel of Mother Nature, where our hotel for the night was perched on a cliff overlooking the valley below. We enjoyed an authentic Moroccan couscous meal and met a nice couple from Seattle and swapped stories before a good nights sleep.

Up and on our way in the morning we drove to see

Monkey Feet

more ancient Kasbahs perched in the Dades Gorge and throughout the red rock region and stopped to view the geological wonder called Monkey’s Feet. A geology uplift of rock that is unique to this area and impossible to describe. And yes, it did look a bit like the bottom of a monkey’s foot.

Midday we visited one of the best preserved Kasbahs in Morocco, the Amerhidil – built-in the 17th century and in remarkable condition. Given that most of this construction is made from mud and straw bricks, finding well-preserved ones of this age is unusual. We toured the building, ate a delicious lunch of grilled turkey kebab and then headed on our way to our hotel.

This night we stayed in another very beautiful boutique hotel with exceptional customer service. Everywhere we go the people are so kind and helpful and that is the case at Riad Tama. Big rooms, and a beautiful garden and a lovely restaurant where we enjoyed a a French inspired dinner.

Have I mentioned a Dar is a house, a Riad means garden but is often used to refer to a hotel or house with a garden?

Day five- our final day began early at 8:30 with our fabulous guide Abdul as we headed off to the

Kasar Air Ben Haddou

famous and well-preserved Kasar of Air Ben Haddou where we spent a couple of hours walking with an incredible guide who had been raised in this village. Morocco has a big film industry and this place is one that is often featured in many films including Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, and Jewel of the Nile.

Have I mentioned a kasbah is a house of a rich family usually with four towers while a kasar is a fortified village with more than one kasbah?

Our final day continued with another spectacular

All together and a wonderful time.

drive with surprising scenery and geography over the Tizi Tichka Pass to the famous city of Marrakesh – our final stop of our Morocco adventure. We will be in Marrakesh for three days.

We loved our tour! An inspiring experience in a magical place.

In the future when I think of Morocco I will certainly remember the cities we have visited (Casablanca, Chefchaouen, Tangier, Asilah, Fes and Marrakesh) but I think it will be the rural areas I will remember most fondly. The desert is such a special place to be, and to be able to sleep there and see the stars at night and ride the camels – unforgettable. The gorges and red rocks and Kasbahs of old are like something out of a movie set (and some are) but they are real. And beautiful. And cherished by the wonderful Moroccan people.

Five Days from Fes to Marrakesh. What an experience. What a lucky girl. What a life.

Fabulous!

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