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    My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France

    Bordeaux. It’s the wine and a whole lot more. During our month-long visit to Bordeaux we rented a car for one week, giving us easy access to some of the beautiful villages outside the city. Even if you visit Bordeaux for only a few days, try to get outside the city. Here are my suggestions for My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France.

    Chateau Monbazillac outside of Bergerac

    Take a Tour

    You do not need a car to get outside of the city. There are many tour options, and the train also goes to many locations. If you are short on time, I recommend a day trip with Olala Tours. We joined a tour with Olala early in our visit to Bordeaux that took us to Saint Emilion and to the Margaux Medoc region. This was a great introduction to the nuances of Bordeaux regional wines. We loved the tiny medieval village of Saint Emilion so we chose to go back there later with the car.

    In Margaux Medoc region on our Olala tour
    Wine tasting in the Margaux Medoc region

    My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France

    We had the car for a week and we made five trips outside of the city during that time. We had beautiful weather on four of those days. Here are my recommendations;

    Saint Emilion

    Drive – It is about an hour drive to Saint Emilion, longer depending on traffic. We did not have any problem finding parking at 10am, but the lot was full after lunch.

    Train – the train takes less time, but drops you about a mile from town. A walk or bike ride on to Saint Emilion is required.

    Bordeaux to Saint Emilion
    Saint Emilion
    Saint Emilion

    What to do – Saint Emilion is one of the most famous wine regions in the world, with more than 800 wineries in the small appellation -you can’t possibly visit them all. Bordeaux’s famous red wines are made from a blend of grape varieties, with Merlot being the dominant variety, and also including Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines are known for their rich, full-bodied and complex character, with good aging potential.

    Beautiful history and art
    Be sure to book AHEAD for the guided tour of the Monolithic underground church

    Start your visit walking around the beautiful village for amazing views and shopping and coffee or lunch. Book in advance to take a tour of the amazing Monolithic church, only accessible by tour. No photos inside, but take my word for it – it is definitely worth it. If you don’t have a car, enjoy a tasting at one of the many wine shops in the village.

    Incredible lunch at Lard Bouchon
    Great food and service at Lard Bouchon

    Tastings

    With a car you must wander out into the miles and miles of vineyards and experience wine tasting with the wine masters of the Saint Emilion appellation. We visited three wineries and I recommend each one for a completely different experience; Chateau Chauvin (we visited with a tour), and on our own Haut Rocher and Chateau Saint Georges. Booking ahead is recommended.

    Haut Rocher in the same family for 800 years
    Saint Georges beautiful Chateau and gardens and massive storage facility
    Lunch in the vineyard at Chateau Chavin with Olala Tours

    There are many tours available from Bordeaux to Saint Emilion. This is an absolute not to miss day trip from Bordeaux on your own or with a tour.

    Saint Emilion’s oldest timbered house and original stone gate

    Arcachon and Dune du Pilat

    Drive – Arcachon is less than an hour by car west to the Atlantic ocean. Plenty of parking available.

    Train – The train from Bordeaux will drop you in the center of Arcachon, but to visit Dune du Pilat you need a car or tour.

    Bordeaux to Arcachon

    What to do – We started our visit at the Les Halle des Arcachon to indulge in Arcachon’s world famous oysters. Oysters and seafood are two of the main attractions to the region. If you love them as we do you must visit. We also did a self guided walk along the beach promenade, and hiked up the hill to admire the 19th century mansions and the view back down to the town. If you are interested there are boat tours out to the small outer islands. We did not do this.

    The Dune du Pilat is an amazing not to be missed sand dune about 40 minutes to the south of Arcachon. I was blown away by the size of this natural phenomenon that juts up from the sea, Europe’s tallest dune. Learn more about it here. It’s a fun hike, accessible by stairs if you don’t want to crawl up, and the view is worth it. I highly recommend visiting Dune du Pilat if you can. So fascinating.

    Some people take off their shoes and walk up
    I took the stairs. Slowly.
    The view from the top. Amazing.

    Bergerac

    Drive – a bit further afield is the beautiful medieval village of Bergerac. It took us an hour and half to arrive in Bergerac. We easily found paid parking

    Train – the train takes about the same time as driving and it is an easy 1km walk from the station into the historic center.

    Bordeaux to Bergerac

    What to do – Bergerac is in the Perigord region, outside of the Bordeaux region. We visited on a Monday, when many things are closed, but we found some shops and restaurants open for visitors. We did a self guided tour of the village, famous for the ancient timbered buildings, many currently being carefully restored and protected. I really enjoyed the beautiful river walk, and views across the Dordogne river. We sat outside at a tiny cafe (such a French thing to do) and had great food, wine and service.

    Visit Bergerac for the ancient timbered buildings most still in use today
    Feels like the French town in Beauty and the Beast
    Delicious lunch on a sunny afternoon
    Perfect day for a walk on the river

    After lunch we drove about twenty minutes outside town to Chateau Monbazillac An ancient Chateau built in the 16th century with fascinating story you can learn on a self-guided immersive tour. The tour includes a glass of wine (this area is known for sweet whites) in their tasting room. It’s worth it for the views and gardens too. So peaceful.

    Chateau Monbazillac
    Chateau Monbazillac

    Although it is farther, I recommend visiting Bergerac. The history was incredible. You could combine Bergerac and Saint Emilion but it would be a very long day.

    Cape Ferret

    Drive – headed west again Cape Ferret is a beautiful oyster producing region about an hour and twenty minutes drive from Bordeaux.

    Train – really not an option

    Bordeaux to Cap Ferret

    What to do – we were blessed with excellent weather (actually hot) and our Cape Ferret goal was to hike. We started at the end of the road (La Pointe du Cap Ferret) where there was a small parking lot and restroom. We did a loop walk along the ocean hiking through both wooded area and ocean beach for a total of five miles. The Cap Ferret lighthouse (‘phare’ in French) is a beacon in the distance, but was not really our destination although it is open for visitors. We sat on the beach just east of the lighthouse, ate the picnic we had brought from home, and watched many brave souls enjoy a brisk ocean swim. There are many small oyster restaurants as well as places to buy fresh oysters to take home. From this side of the bay you can look back across to Dune du Pilat (see above).

    Sandy Beach at Cap Ferret
    Oysters are big business at Cap Ferret
    We were blessed with a beautiful day
    Crossing the estuary at low tide

    It would be possible to combine Cap Ferret with Arcachon if you had a car and were open to a very full day.

    La Reole

    Drive – We drove in a rain storm about an hour and twenty minutes. Part of the drive is on highway and part is through pretty little ancient villages and vineyards

    Train – the train is faster, about 45 minutes, but drops you a few hundred meters outside of the village

    Bordeaux to La Reole

    What to do – unfortunately the day we went to La Reole we got caught in a total monsoon. Our goal was to visit the Saturday morning market (8am-1pm), touted as one of the best markets in all of France. We did visit, but in a deluge. There is a big parking lot just west of the market, which is located along the Dordogne river. We made our purchases from a butcher, poulet producer, and fruits and vegetables vendor. Across from the market there is a public elevator that takes you up to the medieval village. We managed to only see a little bit of this ancient town though, as it really was not possible in the storm. What we did see was beautiful though and you should give it a try.

    Lots of shoppers despite the wet weather
    Looking from the upper town down to the market and river
    Cathedral in La Reole
    All roads lead to Santiago

    You could combine Le Reole with a Saint Emilion day or a visit to Cadillac.

    And There is More

    We did visit Margaux Medoc with the tour we took, but I wished we could have had another day exploring the wine region of Medoc because it is more than just Margaux. I also had hoped to visit Blaye and Cadillac…those will need to wait for our next visit.

    Beautiful gardens at Chateau Saint Georges

    There are many destinations within easy access from Bordeaux if you wanted to do an overnight trip. We did not, but I would definitely consider this on our next long visit to the region. Toulouse is about two and half hours by car. Cognac is about two hours by car. Spain’s Basque region is less than three hours by car. Everything about this region is historic, delicious and beautiful. I want to live here.

    Baby grapes on the vine in April

    Southwest France

    Southwest France and the Bordeaux region are not as well known as some of France’s other destinations, and that of course makes it more desirable for me. Less expensive, less crowded but still interesting, delicious and fun. I learned more about wine during our visit to Bordeaux than I had in all my life. Everyday was fascinating. It’s time to consider the Nouvelle Acquitane region of France for your next travel adventure. J’ai adoré. A bientôt Bordeaux. Merci!

    Vineyard at Chateau Monbazillac

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    Thank you for reading my post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France. See last week’s post Discover Bordeaux France and Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City here.

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    Europe Travel

    Discover Bordeaux France

    It’s More Than Just Wine

    Although I was able to visit Bordeaux for a long leisurely stay, you can really enjoy this city with only a few days. Bordeaux has a surprising food scene (read last week’s blog post Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City), as well as culture, arts, nature and history. It is still relatively under the radar as far as destinations in France, and I fell completely in love with it. Come with me to Discover Bordeaux France.

    From the Cite du Vin viewing the Pont Jacques Chaban Delmas Bridge through my wine

    Walkable

    One of the best things about this incredible city is how walkable it is. There is a tram, inexpensive and convenient, but during our month long stay we walked and walked. Our Airbnb was exactly one mile to the iconic Saint Andre and the start of the old city. Bordeaux’s historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is full of marvelous limestone architecture dating back through the centuries.

    At Saint Andre Square
    Cailhau Gate entrance to Old Town Bordeaux

    Though Neanderthal findings of the region date back 20,000 years, the city itself was founded in the 12th century. The region has a remarkable history under French and English rule. Read about it here.

    When visiting any new city, I always advise you do a walking tour – especially if you have a short amount of time. A walking tour will orient you, give you great historic insight as well as recommendations on how to spend your time. We loved our tour with Free Bordeaux Walking Tours.

    Looking at historic Bordeaux from across the Garonne

    We also loved our Food and Wine Tour with Bordeaux Bites. I highly recommend this tour for getting an overview of the foods of Bordeaux and France. Our guide Alex was a wealth of information and we loved all the tasty treats and wine we had on our tour. Read my post from last week all about the foods of the city; Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

    Eat all the cheese!
    Alex from Bordeaux Bites was an amazing guide

    The River

    The Garonne is the focus of Bordeaux both today and historically. The river is where wine was transported for centuries, and still today the port is active for river cruises, tour boats and pleasure boats. Because Bordeaux is situated just 100km from the sea, the Garonne River has a surprising tidal change, and due to that tidal change, and the clay river floor, the water appears to be brown. This is not pollution, and locals like to refer to it as caramel.

    Pont de Pierre built in 1860 was the first bridge to cross the Garonne River at Bordeaux

    We enjoyed an afternoon boat ride with Yacht Bordeaux which we booked through Get Your Guide. It was informative and beautiful. From the water it’s a expansive view back to the city, and our guide who spoke both in French and English delighted us with tidbits of the city.

    Boat Tours are offered by many lines
    We enjoyed learning about the history and the river on our boat tour

    Be sure to spend some time along the Garonne promenade area, a literal highway for cyclists and pedestrians. Walk and enjoy seeing the river-cruise boats in port, the historic view of the UNESCO Old City, or dine at one of the many restaurants near the Cite du Vin. It’s a lovely and popular place with both visitors and locals.

    Miroir d’eau is one of the beautiful attractions along the Garonne promenade

    Wine (duh)

    Bordeaux lives and breathes wine. It is what truly defines both the city and the region. Bordeaux wine production began sometime after 43 AD, during the Roman occupation of Gaul, when the Romans established vineyards to cultivate wine for the soldiers. However, it is only in 71 AD that Pliny the Elder recorded the first real evidence of vineyards in Bordeaux. Wines of Bordeaux are the second oldest in France, with Provence taking the lead.

    Wine
    Wine
    Oh and MORE wine.

    Although white wine is certainly available, Bordeaux IS red wine. The reds are medium- to full-bodied with bold aromas of black currant, plums and an earthiness like smelling wet soil or pencil lead. Depending on the quality, vintage and what region within Bordeaux the wine is from, fruit flavors range from more tart fruit to sweeter ripe fruit.

    When Thomas Jefferson was in France (before he was President) his love of Bordeaux wines helped bring attention to the region and its fine wine.

    Enjoying a glass of wine from on top the Cite du Vin

    New to Wine? Pas de Soucis (do not worry)

    In next week’s blog post I’ll talk about visiting vineyards and villages outside of the city, possible with a tour or on your own. For a one day tour I recommend Olala tours. Consider the full day tour of Saint Emilion and Medoc. But if you have limited time here are my wine suggestions;

    It’s easy to learn about wine in Bordeaux. It’s what they do.

    La Cite de Vin – visit Bordeaux’s wine museum, in a unique but somewhat controversial architectural building on the river Garonne. City of Wine is a bit expensive ($35 Euro) but if you want to learn about history of the region, wine and also enjoy some wine, be sure and add this to your visit.

    Cite du Vin
    Learning about the different aromas of wine

    Wine Shops – Bordeaux is home to dozens of wine shops, many also serving as tasting rooms. Everywhere we visited the staff was helpful, unpretentious and spoke English. Our favorite was L’Indentant. Even if you don’t plan to buy wine, you must visit L’Indentant to see the spiral wine staircase. Stunning.

    Beautiful Bar a Vin

    Wine Bars – there are nearly as many wine bars in Bordeaux as Wine shops…sometime they are combined. If you just want to try a glass or two with some nibbles, a wine bar is a great option. The absolute best wine bar in Bordeaux is Bar a Vin. It is affordable, service is helpful and it is in a beautiful space.

    Be sure to visit L’Intendant Grand Bordeaux

    Wine Tasting – many, many options in the city for tasting, but if you want something really special sign up to visit La Pied a Terre. This humble shop near the Opera House is run by two enthusiastic and knowledgeable brothers. During the two-hour class we learned so much great information about local and world wines, tasted three wines and had a lot of fun. Highly recommend.

    Wine Class at La Pied a Terre
    La Pied a Terre

    Cathedrals

    Bordeaux is home to many beautiful cathedrals. As in most European cities, cathedrals are open to visitors all day, even during services. We are not Catholic, but we always make a point to step into any cathedral or basilica when traveling. And since Bordeaux is so walkable, we found ourselves in some beautiful churches. GPS My City has a Cathedral walking tour I recommend, as well as an architecture tour you should try.

    Saint Andre was originally constructed in the eleventh century
    Saint Michel Basilica was built in the 14th century

    Arts and Culture

    Bordeaux is home to the beautiful Grand Theatre de Opera with many performances. We make a point in many cities to visit the historic theaters when possible, and we did here. Our visit was for a modern dance performance which was excellent. We really enjoyed seeing the beautiful historic architecture of this building built in 1780.

    Art on the Opera Square
    Grand Theatre
    Beautiful Bordeaux Opera House Grand Theater

    If you have time, Bordeaux has many art museums, history museums and maritime museums. See the list here.

    Nature

    If you have enough time to take a day and get out into nature close to the city, we have two recommendations for you. On the right bank of the Garonne, a paved trail runs the entire way from Saint Jean bridge to Jacques Chaban-Delmas bridge, with beautiful trees, flowers and views back across the river to the historic old town. It’s a flat, easy and beautiful walk.

    Many things to admire on a walk on the right side of the river

    Even better, take the C tram to Parc des Expositions (the end of the line), then walk about a kilometer to Reserve Ecologique des Barails. We spent half a day here enjoying the beautiful spring blooms and bird watching. We had a picnic and nearly had the entire park to ourselves.

    Loved the quiet Reserve Ecologique des Barails

    Markets

    Everyday somewhere in the city is a market. Near Saint Andre, the center of the old town, a market seems to happen everyday. We perused a book market, a vintage market and a fresh produce and cheese market.

    On Thursday and Sunday along the Garonne promenade a really nice market brings fish mongers, meat vendors, produce and cheese vendors to the people. This is a popular place to eat oysters and drink wine with friends, especially on Sunday.

    Marche de Capucins is the main market in Bordeaux, and it lies on the far south end of the old city, just past the beautiful Saint Michel Basilica. If you go, be sure to visit in the morning to see the local producers at work. It’s also a great place to grab lunch.

    Markets everywhere
    Oysters at Marche de Capucins

    Bon Appetit

    I’ll mention again my blog post from last week Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City – a few amazing suggestions. If you have time and want to delve deeper into the cuisine of the region, book a cooking class with Chef Daniel and Erica at The Gastronome Bordeaux. When I return to Bordeaux (and I will) I want to take their immersive class. You will learn a lot from David and Erica.

    Gastronome Bordeaux

    Discover Bordeaux France

    Dare I say I liked it more than Paris? It’s less expensive, less crowded and unpretentious – all things we love. The food, wine, history, shopping and people are amazing. I am so glad to Discover Bordeaux France. I think I could live here. Get beautiful Bordeaux on your travel list soon – before others Discover Bordeaux France.

    Bordeaux is lovely in the spring

    Come back next week for my post on Day Trips from Bordeaux France.

    Thank you for reading my post Discover Bordeaux France. Your shares, pins and comments help our blog find a new audience. Thank you in advance. Merci!

    Europe Travel

    Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City

    Location: Bordeaux France

    Bonjour Bordeaux! Spending an entire month in the underrated French city of Bordeaux has been such a lovely luxury. We have enjoyed beautiful spring weather, surprisingly low prices, kind and generous people and of course incredible food. Let me tell you all about Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

    Bonjour Bordeaux

    Bon Appitit

    I have visited France numerous times, but this was my first visit to Bordeaux. It was recommended to us by Parisian friends as a great location for a long stay. And indeed it has been. Still flying under the radar, this ancient city on the Garonne River is undergoing a renaissance. Over the past twenty years Bordeaux has gone from dilapidated to divine. Cleaned up, yet still a bit gritty – Bordeaux is un-apologetically authentic. And the food is well…magnifique. Let’s talk about it.

    Duck pate, with cornichons

    Pain (Bread)

    Eat the pain. Eat all the bread. Bread from a boulangerie in France is delicious and due to no preservatives, better for you. Unlike grocery store bread in the USA, bread in France needs to be purchased and consumed daily for freshness. It’s amazing how much better it is. Bread in France, like many local foods, is highly regulated by the government to ensure quality. To be called a “boulangerie”, a bakery must make its own bread fresh on-site, no pre-made dough allowed. A baguette must weigh 250-300 g, be 55-65 cm long, and any bread labeled “tradition française” must be produced following a very specific recipe. And as someone with a sensitive tummy, I notice no issues when eating in France.

    A patisserie is a French bakery that sells pastries. In France and Belgium patisserie is also regulated and using the word is restricted to bakeries who employ licensed maître pâtissier (master pastry chefs).

    Pistachio Croissant. Oui!
    So delicious, every bite. This is the tiny local boulangerite where we bought our bread.

    Viande & Voaille (Meat & Poultry)

    Beef, lamb, pork, duck! We ate it all and more. French cuisine features meat and poultry often, and we specifically visited several restaurants to enjoy these classics. I had steak tartare at a little hole in the wall called Petit Mignon (Arne had a giant hamburger) and we ate lamb, duck and fois gras at La Tupina. We also had grilled pork and steak frites for lunch at Brasserie de Chartrons. Bordeaux takes these classics seriously while also focusing on local specialties. All served with the most incredible Bordeaux wine.

    It’s not for everyone but I love steak tartare
    You can’t go wrong with steak frites
    Grilled duck with fois gras at La Tupina. One of the best meals I have ever had.
    Fall off the bone tender pork at Brasserie de Chartrons

    Fruit de Mer (Seafood)

    Though on a river, the city of Bordeaux is only 100km from the Atlantic ocean. This proximity makes seafood abundant, fresh and delicious. We love shellfish and had local oysters on several occasions as well as delicious moules (muscles). In addition we enjoyed squid, sea bass, tuna and octopus.

    Moules et frites
    So fresh oysters at Marche Capuchin
    Tuna tartare
    Fried shrimp and octopus at Les Halles des Bacalan

    Canele (Bordeaux’s Favorite)

    The name canelé comes from the French word for “fluted.” According to cookbooks, the canele Bordelaise could date back to anywhere between the 15th and 18th centuries, and most of the history books concur that the pastry originated in various convents around the winemaking regions of Bordeaux in Southern France.

    On arrival in Bordeaux we immediately noticed shops selling these sweet little bites. There are a couple of chain stores that sell them, but luckily and unknowingly we popped into a small proprietor, considered Bordeaux’s best – Cassanade. Very delicious crunchy exterior with a creamy rum and vanilla baked center. Hard to describe but definitely easy to eat.

    Bordeaux’s famous treat – Canele

    Nourriture Ethnique (Ethnic Choices)

    Bordeaux is home to wide range of immigrants who have brought their cuisines to this international city. Lebanese, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, Italian and even Mexican which I find is rare in Europe. One we tried and loved was a delicious Peruvian restaurant called Blind. Blind had a prix-fixe dinner menu (very common) with Peruvian classics like ceviche presented with a French twist. Very good.

    We also visited an amazing Cambodian restaurant just a few minutes walk from our apartment called Kampot. Lovely little spots like these are authentic and delicious. The proprietor was our host, waiter and cook! So very kind and the food was delicious!

    Ceviche at Blind. So fresh.
    Amazing coconut lemongrass soup at Kampot

    If You Only Have a Few Days

    I get it, most people don’t come to Bordeaux for an entire month. So I have a couple of recommendations if you only have a few days. Definitely plan ahead and make some bookings. Remember that the majority of restaurants are open from about noon to 2:30pm then close and don’t reopen until 7:00 or 7:30. Many restaurants (and shops too) are closed on Monday. There are some touristic places near the main squares that you might find open all day. But it is our recommendation to try to eat where the locals eat. And that means eating during the hours the locals eat. This is how we indulged in Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

    Fresh in season white asparagus is very popular in the spring. Tender and delicious

    Bordeaux Bites

    Definitely find time to do a food and wine walking tour with Bordeaux Bites. If you can start your visit with this tour, you will come away with a great understanding of what makes the food scene of Bordeaux tick. I highly recommend it. Our guide Alex was amazing and he emailed me after the tour many restaurant suggestions. Merci Alex!

    We learned so much about the nuances of French fromage
    We tasted many meats and pates on our tour

    The Gastronome Bordeaux

    We loved our cooking/baking class with Chef Daniel and Erica at The Gastronome Bordeaux. This is where we learned the history and nuances of Bordeaux’s iconic sweet treat canele. I can highly recommend this class, but you might also consider their full cooking class with market tour or their duck class. Delicieuse!

    We loved meeting Chef Daniel and Erica
    Look what I made! So yummy. I need to try this at home.

    Les Halles des Bacalan

    This wonderful food hall, Les Halles des Bacalan, is such a delight…we ate there twice. Especially if you only have a few days in Bordeaux, this collection of gourmet delights under one roof is perfect. Popular with locals and visitors, you can walk around and choose what looks good and sample many different foods of the region. We had seafood, wine, charcuterie, and more. I highly recommend.

    Squid and sardines with frits
    Gravlax with beet sauce.

    Wine Tasting

    Of course I have to at least mention wine…we are in Bordeaux after all – where they produce over 700 million bottles of wine a year. Everywhere you go to eat there will be a wide variety of local wine offerings at amazing prices (compared to USA prices). Do not worry if you know little or nothing about wine. Ask just few questions, or ask the waiter to make a recommendation. Everyone we met was kind and helpful and very willing to introduce the local wines to novices. It’s surprisingly unpretentious.

    Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City, included lots and lots of wine. Not just at every meal, but also at wine bars. A wine bar or a wine shop (most also serve as wine bars) is an exceptional way to be guided through the delicious local wines. We particularly liked Le Bar a Vin.

    I’ll have more about wine in Bordeaux in our next two blog posts coming soon.

    Le Bar a Vin

    Marche des Capucins

    Everyday somewhere in the city there seems to be markets; book market, vintage market, flea markets. And on Thursday and Sunday along the Garonne river there is a beautiful fresh produce and fish market. But Bordeaux’s main market is open every day – the Marche des Capucins. We enjoyed it for produce, cheese, meat and oysters. Even if you aren’t cooking yourself, you still should visit (in the morning is best) to see the colorful market at work. It’s also a great place to have fresh oysters and sandwiches.

    Colorful fruit at Marche des Capucins
    Fresh and local
    Amazing assortment of pates, saucisson (sausage), and prepared foods

    Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City

    There is much more than food in this beautiful city. So I hope you will come back next week to read about my recommendations to Discover Bordeaux. I also hope you will get Bordeaux on your travel list, sooner rather than later. Come in the spring. Come in the fall. Even come in the winter. But please don’t come in the summer. You will love the city more completely without the crowds, tour buses and cruise ships.

    I can’t get enough French coffee, here we shared a chocolate covered crepe and watched the world go by.

    I definitely will be back – maybe even for more than a month. Merci Bordeaux. J’adore Bordeaux!

    We love it when you comment, share and pin our blog posts. Merci. See last week’s post Birds of Beautiful Bhutan here.

    Europe Travel

    Baku, Azerbaijan

    The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

    Location: Baku Azerbaijan

    Welcome to the third of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Baku, Azerbaijan.

    Wow. Baku was just Wow. A surprisingly modern city, full of culture and color – we really enjoyed our week-long visit to Baku, Azerbaijan. Let’s talk about it.

    Where Am I?

    We flew from Tbilisi, Georgia to Baku, Azerbaijan on Azerbaijan airlines. It was an easy one hour flight. We hired a car to take us to our Airbnb located just a few blocks from the old city. Although I didn’t love this Airbnb (smelled like cigarettes), I did love both the location and the view.

    View of the Flaming Towers from our Airbnb

    Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, sits on the Caspian Sea. This was my first glimpse of the immense and blue Caspian.

    The Caspian is the world’s largest inland body of water, often described as the world’s largest lake and sometimes referred to as a full-fledged sea. It has a salinity of approximately 1.2% (12 g/L), about a third of the salinity of average seawater. It is bounded by Kazakhstan to the northeast, Russia to the northwest, Azerbaijan to the southwest, Iran to the south, and Turkmenistan to the southeast.

    First look at the Caspian Sea

    The sea stretches 1,200 km (750 mi) from north to south, with an average width of 320 km (200 mi). Its gross coverage is 386,400 km2 (149,200 sq mi) and the surface is about 27 m (89 ft) below sea level. Its main freshwater inflow, Europe’s longest river, the Volga, enters at the shallow north end. (Wikipedia)

    Where is Azerbaijan?

    Azerbaijan has no diplomatic relations with Armenia to its west, but has good relations with its other neighbors Russia, Georgia and Iran.

    Fabulous Architecture all over Baku

    A Little History

    Azerbaijan, located at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, has a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was inhabited by various tribes, including the Medes and Persians, and later became part of the Achaemenid Empire. Throughout the centuries, Azerbaijan was influenced by various cultures and empires, including the Greeks, Romans, and Arabs. In the early Middle Ages, it became a center of Islamic culture and learning. The Seljuk Turks and later the Safavid dynasty played significant roles in shaping the region’s political and cultural landscape, with Tabriz emerging as a prominent cultural hub.

    The Main Gate to the ancient Old Town

    In the 19th century, Azerbaijan fell under Russian control following the Russo-Persian Wars, leading to significant societal changes and the emergence of a national identity. The early 20th century saw the brief establishment of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic in 1918, which was the first secular democratic republic in the Muslim world. However, this independence was short-lived, as Azerbaijan was incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920. During the Soviet era, Azerbaijan underwent industrialization and urbanization, but it also faced repression. The country regained its independence in 1991 following the collapse of the Soviet Union. Since then, Azerbaijan has navigated challenges related to its territorial disputes, particularly with Armenia over Nagorno-Karabakh, while seeking to establish itself as a significant player in the region’s energy and political landscape.

    Beautifully restored Old Town

    The Bad

    As an American who believes in democracy and human rights, the current authoritarian government of Azerbaijan is disturbing. I was careful not to criticize or comment on the ruling party while in the country.

    As of 2023, Azerbaijan’s political climate is characterized by a centralized and authoritarian governance structure, with a strong emphasis on stability and control by the ruling party. President Ilham Aliyev, who has been in power since 2003 following the death of his father, Heydar Aliyev, leads a government that is often criticized for suppressing dissent, limiting political freedoms, and curtailing media independence. Political opposition is fragmented and faces significant challenges, including imprisonment of opposition leaders and activists, which has raised concerns among international human rights organizations.

    Old and New in Baku

    The political landscape is further complicated by ongoing territorial disputes, particularly with Armenia over the Nagorno-Karabakh region. Following a brief war in 2020, Azerbaijan regained control over significant territories in the region, which has fostered a sense of nationalism and pride among many Azerbaijanis. However, the government also faces challenges related to economic diversification, corruption, and social inequality. While the country has substantial oil and gas resources that contribute to its economy, there is an increasing call for political reforms and greater transparency in governance, especially from civil society and younger generations seeking more democratic governance. Overall, Azerbaijan’s political climate remains tightly controlled, with the government prioritizing stability and territorial integrity over political pluralism and civil liberties.

    The military forceful take over of Nagorno-Karabakh has caused tension with the United Nations and European Union. Calls for a renegotiation of the relationship with Azerbaijan are under review.

    The Good

    Despite the government structure, there is progressive religious freedom in Azerbaijan with a secular system that welcomes all religions, though the majority of the population is Muslim. Additionally, despite its oil wealth, Azerbaijan has a progressive alternative energy plan expanding its support and use of solar and wind energy.

    Architecture is very unique and playful and the local government in Baku has invested heavily in interesting and fun designs that contrast in a lovely way with the historic and ancient parts of the city. We enjoyed all of that very much.

    Night view of Baku and the Caspian Sea

    A visitor can travel to Azerbaijan very inexpensively. Enjoying a delicious meal and drinks throughout the city of Baku was only about $20 USD for two. Gas prices are about $2.60 USD per gallon. Entrance prices to museums is also inexpensive. Azerbaijanis earn about $750 USD per month, higher in the city.

    The Beautiful

    Despite the country’s wealth being controlled by one ruling family, investment in Baku is apparent with beautiful museums and architecture – much of it government funded. From our Airbnb we enjoyed the view of the Flaming Towers, a mixed use but nearly unoccupied set of three buildings beautiful both day and night.

    Flaming Towers changed throughout the evening every night

    Ancient Old City

    We did a self-guided walk of the walled old city, which was conveniently about three blocks from our Airbnb.

    Shirvanshah’s Palace in the Old Town was definitely one of my favorites

    The Inner City (Icheri Sheher) has preserved much of its 12th-century defensive walls. The 12th-century Maiden Tower (Giz Galasy) is built over earlier structures dating from the 7th to 6th centuries BC, and the 15th-century Shirvanshahs’ Palace is one of the pearls of Azerbaijan’s architecture. (Wikipedia)

    The Old Town full of hidden treasures

    We spent one full day exploring the ancient old city and this is also where we ate some of our favorite meals (see more on that below).

    Museums

    Baku has a surprising number of museums. We did not visit all of them but during our weeklong visit we did visit four including the tiny book museum and the National History Museum. My two favorites however where the Carpet Museum and the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center (named after the former President).

    There are a few museums and sights further out of the city, but while Arne continued his recovery from the car accident, we chose to stay close to Baku during our visit.

    Named for Azerbaijan’s first President, the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center was jaw dropping. Both the architecture and the exhibits inside.
    Carpet display at the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center
    The architecture of the Carpet Museum is designed to look like a rolled up carpet.
    In addition to historic and modern day carpet display and information, the museum had several women working on hand-tied carpets.
    The National History Museum provided a chronological look at the history of the region for thousands of years.
    Traditional costumes in the National History Museum

    Entertainment

    We really enjoyed visiting the Shirvanshah Museum restaurant (puzzlingly, not associated with or anywhere near the Shirvanshah Museum!) to watch evening dance performance with our dinner. This is a very popular and gigantic restaurant, locals love it for events and family gatherings. It’s also a bit touristy and we had better food elsewhere, but we still enjoyed it.

    Traditional dance and music at Shirvanshah Museum restaurant
    A stewed chicken and rice dish at Shirvanshah Museum restaurant was very good

    On our final night in Baku we enjoyed a lovely dinner then proceeded to the Baku Marionette Theater for a special show by talented local marionette performers. We were so happy we decided to do that.

    Such a well done performance
    Talented cast at the Baku Marionette Theatre

    Architecture

    Because of the beautiful architecture throughout the city, we decided to do a guided night tour to enjoy this gorgeous city aglow. We booked the tour through Viator. Our guide was excellent with an expansive knowledge of the city. We enjoyed a gondola ride to the hill that gave us a birds-eye view of the sparkling and cosmopolitan metropolis. We also visited a beautiful mosque and the eternal flame and memorial to the victims who died in Black January.  Also known as Black Saturday or the January Massacre, this was a violent crackdown on Azerbaijani nationalism and anti-Soviet sentiment in Baku on 19–20 January 1990, as part of a state of emergency during the dissolution of the Soviet Union

    Eternal Flame overlooks the city
    Crystal glove atop the Eternal Flame
    High above the city on our night tour
    Even the stairs glow
    It’s a city of contrasts

    And Then the Food

    Of course I can’t ever write a blog post without talking about food. Azerbaijan did not disappoint and we enjoyed amazing food and wine in Baku. And inexpensive.

    The cuisine is not dissimilar to the other Caucasus countries but also had its own tastes. One of the best things we enjoyed was plov – a delicious pilaf wrapped inside pastry. Once cut table side by the waiter, a warm and fragrant lamb stew is poured on top.

    Plov was one of our favorites

    Another favorite was piti. This lamb stew was mixed and served table side, and enjoyed with delicious flat bread used as your utensil to sop up all the tasty goodness. Really good.

    Piti prepared table side

    Kefti becha I enjoyed twice because it was so good. A slow wine braised chicken that was melt in your mouth.

    Wine braised chicken

    Yogurt soup, pickled vegetables, crispy eggplant and delicious soups and stews are abundant. Pomegranate and pumpkin also were used frequently. Many fresh breads, particularly flat bread were available for every meal as was cheese and fruit.

    Yogurt Soup
    Crispy Eggplant we ordered several times

    Tea is the drink of choice in Azerbaijan. It was common to see groups of men in the afternoon enjoying a pot of tea together with small sweet snacks and fruits.

    Tea with a view – I love these Samovar Tea Makers. I want one for home.

    We did an afternoon tea service too. I really wanted to enjoy an authentic tea with the ancient coal-fired samovar keeping our tea hot at the table. When enjoying this tea you are offered multiple small sweets and cookies and jam. The jam is very sweet and abundant with large pieces of fruit. Popular jams are apricot, cherry, and plum.

    Here is my YouTube video talking about how much we loved the foods of Baku.

    YouTube Video about Azerbaijan Cuisine

    Final Thoughts

    Admittedly I came to Azerbaijan not knowing a lot about this nation or the city of Baku. We had a positive visit and enjoyed the locals we met, the museums and the architecture. We enjoyed the food and the price was right. I encourage people to visit this city, and if you have the time, you should venture further out to see more of the country than we did. Despite some political issues we felt very safe, very welcome and really enjoyed everything about our visit. We definitely came away with a much greater understanding of the three countries of the Caucasus region; Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan.

    Very friendly locals

    Thank you for reading my post Baku, Azerbaijan. See last week’s post about Tbilisi Georgia. I hope you will come next Friday for the first of my posts about our Five Stans tour – we begin with the kinda crazy country of Turkmenistan.

    We love it when you pin, comment and share our blog posts. Thank you.

    Europe Travel

    Tbilisi, Georgia

    The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

    Location: Tbilisi Georgia

    Welcome to the second of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Tbilisi Georgia.

    The country of Georgia just blew my mind for it’s history, beauty, people, wine and food! I really enjoyed my week in Tbilisi. But there is political unrest too. So for today’s blog post let me start with the recent elections; Tbilisi Georgia, The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

    Looking down on the city of Tbilisi after a gondola ride up the mountain. Peace bridge on the left and Performing Arts Center in the middle.

    The Bad

    On October 26th, a month after our visit, elections were held and the ruling party – referred to as the Dream Party – was re-elected to Parliament. Georgia has a Prime Minister/Parliamentary strong system. Immediately protests began and countries around the world questioned the legitimacy of the election. A partial recount was done and again the Dream Party was announced as the winner. Georgians took to the street in protest of what they believe was a manipulated vote with Russian interference. It’s too early to tell how this might unfold and affect tourism in this beautiful nation. For more details it is explained in the NPR Report. This entire process sounds eerily familiar to me as an American.

    I will add that during our visit we had a wonderful guide on a food tour who was unusually vocal about the upcoming election. She feared that the Dream Party would do whatever it takes to win the election and keep the country pro-Russian. She and most Georgians supported moving the country forward with more Western leaning tendencies towards Europe. Georgia is waiting to be confirmed as a member of the European Union. This election result would likely remove them as a candidate.

    On My Own

    If you read last week’s post about our car accident while we were visiting Yerevan Armenian, you know that my husband suffered a concussion. Arne was having some pretty serious symptoms; fatigue, dizziness, trouble swallowing and numbness on his right side. We agreed that he needed a quiet week. So, luckily our Airbnb in Tbilisi was peaceful and comfortable and he spent nearly the entire week resting. Meanwhile I gallivanted around Tbilisi on my own. Tbilisi was easy for me to maneuver and the weather was great and I got to see the sites. Poor Arne.

    Wine ice cream. Yep – it’s a thing.

    The Good

    Hopefully starting off with “the bad” didn’t turn you off too much, because my experience during the week in Tbilisi was really great. On my own I did three tours, and at the end of the week Arne joined me for one more. This is a remarkably beautiful, historic, inexpensive and DELICIOUS country. I loved it. So let’s talk about it.

    Kebabs and other meat is very popular in Tbilisi

    A Little History

    Georgia is a country situated at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It boasts rich history that dates back to ancient times. The region has been inhabited since the Paleolithic era, and it became a significant cultural and political center in the early medieval period. The Kingdom of Georgia emerged in the 11th century. Reaching its zenith under King David IV and Queen Tamar known for its advancements in art, architecture, and literature. However, the kingdom faced invasions from the Mongols and later the Ottomans and Persians. This lead to a decline in its power and fragmentation into smaller principalities.

    Stalin, who was born in Georgia, was married in this church

    In the 19th century, Georgia was annexed by the Russian Empire, which brought significant changes to its political landscape. Following the collapse of the Russian Empire in 1917, Georgia declared independence, but this was short-lived as it was invaded by the Red Army in 1921. Georgia was incorporated into the Soviet Union. Georgia regained its independence in 1991 after the dissolution of the USSR. The post-Soviet period was marked by political instability and conflicts, including the wars in Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Today, Georgia is a sovereign nation striving for democratic development, economic growth, and closer ties with Europe and NATO, while preserving its unique cultural heritage.

    Where Am I

    We drove across the border from Armenia to Tbilisi with a hired car and driver. This is an easy way to cross the border with some sightseeing opportunities. We had to visit the countries of the Caucasus in this order. We could not go from Armenia to Azerbaijan because of closed borders between those two countries. Armenia and Georgia currently have good diplomatic relations.

    Tbilisi Walking Tours

    I did a walking tour and a food walking tour on my own during the week. I booked both these group tours with Viator and both were exceptional. The city of Tbilisi has some beautiful architecture, both old and new. The country of Georgia is an officially secular nation.  Religion in Georgia reached a major turning point in 326 AD. The nation is largely recognized as the second country in the world (after Armenia) to have adopted Christianity. Today 85% of Georgians are Christian and 11% practice the Muslim faith. Once numbering as many as 100,000, today the Georgian Jewish population comprises only a few thousand people. Most of the Jewish population emigrated to Israel, United States and Belgium.

    Typical Georgian Architecture in the old city
    Old walls and new construction
    The historic Kashveti Church survived the Soviet era

    So Delicious

    Some of the best food I’ve ever eaten was right here in Tbilisi. I know right? Considering how many places I have traveled that is saying a lot. Every restaurant we ate in was amazing. Prices are incredible low (dinner for two with drinks less than $20 USD). Restaurant staff was always so welcoming. The food tour I took was so interesting. We were treated with some hidden gems including an underground bakery, a tiny secret tea room, and wine tasting.

    Tea is the favored drink in Georgia as well as a social event

    My favorite foods included amazing hummus; a local specialty called Khingali – a delicious dumpling; and best of all Khachapuri – the national dish of Georgia is a delicious filled pastry that Georgians eat everyday.

    Kingali Dumplings – similar to soup dumplings
    Hummus – yum
    Both egglant and pomegranite are popular
    Lamb and wine – a great pairing
    Kachapuri – stuffed bread – has many versions. This one with goat cheese and egg was my favorite. I need to try and make this!

    Check out the YouTube video below to see my Tasty Tuesday all about Georgia Cuisine

    Surprising Georgian Wine

    I had no idea that Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world. The fertile valleys and protective slopes of the South Caucasus were home to grapevine cultivation and neolithic wine production for at least 8000 years. Georgians are very proud of this fact and of their local wines. On each of the three tours I did on my own, we tasted wine – that’s how important it is to this region. I really enjoyed all the wine I tasted and plan to look for Georgian wines back in the USA. Who knew?

    Enjoying wine tasting on the walking tour
    More delicious wine at dinner
    Wine is abundant and incredibly inexpensive

    The Beautiful

    Tbilisi was indeed beautiful, but the surrounding region was breathtaking. I did one day trip out of the city by myself to the UNESCO World Heritage monastery of Mtskheta and the city of Gori. This destination is less than an hour outside of Tbilisi. There were only two people on this tour and our guide/driver was really great.

    Christianity

    Mtskheta  is one of the oldest cities in Georgia as well as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is located at the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers. Currently a small provincial capital. For nearly a millennium Mtskheta was a large fortified city. It also served as a significant economic and political center of the Kingdom of Iberia.

     It is the birthplace and one of the most vibrant centers of Christianity in Georgia. Mtskheta was declared the “Holy City” by the Georgian Orthodox Church in 2014. (Wikipedia)

    View of the Kura River from the hilltop ancient monastery
    Inside the monastery
    UNESCO church in Gori

    Stunning Mountains

    By the end of our week Arne was feeling up to doing an all-day private tour to Kazbegi & Gudauri. I am so glad he felt better. It would have been tragic to miss this region near the Georgian border with Russia. Truly astonishingly beautiful. It was a very long drive though, mostly due to difficult two lane roads. There is some major infrastructure work going on. Extensive improvements will help make this trip easier in the near future.

    Gergeti Trinity Church – spectacular fall day and iconic view

    We were blessed with outstanding weather on our late September visit. Incredibly only a week later the area was blanketed with snow. The mountain region is a well known ski area popular with both Russians and Georgians. Additionally this beautiful backdrop shows off one of Georgia’s most stunning churches, Gergeti Trinity Church. We were able to do a couple short hikes to visit a waterfall and breath the delicious mountain air.

    Stunning Scenery
    Incredible history
    Soviet Friendship Mural
    Just beautiful

    Final Thoughts

    I can’t end this post without mentioning the historic thermal baths in Tbilisi. These are a must-do when visiting this area. The history of Tbilisi’s sulfur baths dates back to the city’s founding in the 5th century. This is when King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered the natural hot springs while hunting. The city’s name, Tbilisi, is derived from the Georgian word “tbili,” meaning warm, a clear nod to these thermal waters. Visitors have several options for visiting the thermal baths, both public or private bathing. We did a private hour long bath visit on our final day and it was really fun and relaxing.

    Domes of the bath houses
    Relaxing at the baths

    A Wonderful Surprise

    Tbilisi was a wonderful surprise, and a place I would definitely come back to if given the chance. The food and wine were delicious and inexpensive. Tours and driver hire were also inexpensive. Gas is running about $3.00 USD per gallon. The average wage in Georgia is $925 per month with a wide disparity between city and rural areas. The fall scenery and weather we enjoyed was wonderful and the people we met were welcoming and interesting.

    This mural celebrating female political heroes
    That is not me…but the mountains are a great place to paraglide

    Georgia has issues they need to work on. I remain hopeful for this country to move forward in a positive way. We wish them all the best and thank everyone who made our visit so wonderful. I will be watching their progress in the months ahead.

    Such a beautiful country. Hopeful for the people of Georgia.

    Thank you for reading my post Tbilisi Georgia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Please see last week’s post Yerevan Armenia. You may also be interested in reading one of my favorite historical novels about Georgia – Hard By a Great Forest by Leo Vardiashvili. I highly recommend it.

    Meanwhile come back next week for a new post in our series, next up – Azerbaijan. We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts. Thank you.

    Asia & Oceania Travel  --  Europe Travel

    Yerevan, Armenia

    The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

    Welcome to the first of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Let’s begin with Yerevan Armenia.

    Mother Armenia, Yerevan

    Where Am I?

    Yerevan, Armenia is not on everyone’s travel bucket list, but it was on mine after reading about it from another travel blogger several years ago. In fact we were scheduled for this trip when Covid shut the world down. So we were happy to finally get to the beautiful Caucasus region.

    Armenia was the first of eight former Soviet states we would visit on this whirlwind trip. Over the past 8 plus years on the Grand Adventure, I have grown to really appreciate what it was like behind the Iron Curtain and why many people believe things were better for them during that time. Not all, but many people miss the security they enjoyed during the Soviet era.

    Where is Armenia?

    A Little History

    Armenia, one of the oldest countries in the world, boasts a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was home to the Urartian Kingdom in the 9th century BCE, which laid the foundation for Armenian culture and identity. The Kingdom of Armenia was officially established in 301 CE when it became the first nation to adopt Christianity as its state religion, a pivotal moment that significantly influenced its cultural and social development. Throughout the centuries, Armenia faced numerous invasions and occupations, including those by the Persians, Romans, Byzantines, and later the Seljuks and Ottomans, which shaped its political landscape and often led to the displacement of its people.

    Yerevan is known for it’s delicious water and free drinking fountains around the city.
    Many ancient and beautiful monasteries survived the Soviet era

    Learning about the Armenian Genocide was eye-opening for me. In the early 20th century, Armenia experienced one of the most tragic events in its history: the Armenian Genocide. Perpetrated by the Ottoman Empire during World War I, an estimated 1.5 million Armenians were extinguished. Why have I never heard about this?

    Be sure to check out the book review The Sandcastle Girls by Chris Bohjalian I posted last Wednesday. This novel is a must-read to learn more about the Armenian Genocide.

    Following the war, Armenia briefly declared independence in 1918 but was soon incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920, where it remained until the dissolution of the USSR in 1991.

    Few people are aware of the horrific genocide the Armenian people suffered at the hands of the Ottoman Empire in the early 20th Century. Armenia’s relation with Turkey remains strained.

    How’s it Going?

    Since gaining independence 1991, Armenia has sought to rebuild its national identity and address the historical injustices faced by its people. The country is navigating complex geopolitical challenges, particularly its relationship with neighboring Turkey and Azerbaijan. Armenia is part of the EU’s Eastern Partnership since 2009. Today, Armenia is recognized for its rich cultural heritage, including its ancient churches and monasteries, and its ongoing efforts to establish itself as a modern nation-state in the South Caucasus region. The world-wide Armenian diaspora (about 10 million) create awareness around the world about this little known and beautiful region of our planet.

    Monastery at Lake Sevan

    As a visitor to Yerevan Armenia, we found most everything inexpensive from restaurants to tours and souvenirs. During our stay we ate delicious meals with drinks in Yerevan for less than $25 USD for two. Gas prices however, were about $5.30 gallon. The average monthly salary in Armenia is around $675 USD a month.

    We even found a couple of craft breweries. Hubby happy.

    The Good

    Armenia is still working its way through issues from the past Soviet era, but the people we met seem happy with the direction of their country with some exceptions regarding education. In Yerevan (one of the oldest cities in the world) we had a great Airbnb with an engaged and friendly host. We did three tours; a history walking tour, a food walking tour and a cooking class and market tour. These were all private tours we booked through Viator, and we had excellent guides and experiences. All of our guides spoke great English and were enthusiastic about the future of their country.

    Fun cooking class with a local
    Walking tour we learned so many things including about the more than 115 drinking fountains around the city
    Jengyalov Hac is one of the best things I have ever eaten. Without our guide we would never have known about this herb stuffed sandwich.

    The Bad

    Similar to our visit last spring to Albania and Serbia, the traffic was awful. It’s clear that the pace of automobile acquisition in Yerevan, Armenia after independence has outmatched that of infrastructure development. Drivers are aggressive, blaring horns constantly and the din can be annoying. Most drivers seem untrained with little regard for rules of the road. Case in point – we ordered a taxi on a rainy day. The taxi arrived and it was an old car, no seat belts and past it’s prime. In hindsight we should never have gotten in this vehicle. But we did. The driver was driving way too fast, in the wrong lane and swerved to miss a car. We crashed into a concrete barrier. Unfortunately, because we were not wearing seat belts, my husband hit is head hard on the ceiling and suffered a concussion.

    Accident does not look bad, but our injuries were due to the fact we were not wearing seat belts. Despite rules for such safety features, we had little recourse.

    Because of the concussion and my husband needing to rest, we ended up missing our all day tour outside of the city to Khor Virap and the Tatev Monastery. Even though I did not visit these places, I still recommend them if you have the chance. These are the top sights outside of Yerevan. It was disappointing but necessary for us to not travel on the day after our taxi accident.

    Khor Virap (Canva) with Mount Ararat in the distance

    Genocide

    The Genocide is one of the worst things that has happened to the Armenian people, and it is something few people in the world know about. The Armenian genocide was the systematic destruction of the Armenian people and identity in the Ottoman Empire during World War I. Spearheaded by the ruling Committee of Union and Progress (CUP), it was implemented primarily through the mass murder of around one million Armenians during death marches to the Syrian Desert and the forced Islamization of others, primarily women and children. Today in Yerevan, this horrific period is remembered with an excellent Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum that is a must visit for everyone visiting Armenia.

    Areminan Genocide Museum

    Today Armenia has no diplomatic relations with neighboring Azerbaijan. There are no open border crossings which presents a problem for visitors navigating the Caucasus region. This is due to the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict – an ethnic and territorial dispute between Armenia and Azerbaijan. This is an ongoing issue, very volatile, with no negotiations in sight.

    The Beautiful

    Yerevan, Armenia has many beautiful sites. We enjoyed our time inside the city. Our favorite places included the giant statue of Mother Armenia, the view of Mount Ararat (Armenians believe it to be where Noah’s Ark is), the Yerevan Cascade Climb, Matenadaran Manuscript Library, Republic Square and the amazing Genocide Memorial and Museum. We spent several hours exploring the National Gallery of Armenia and the GUM Market (has nothing to do with chewing gum) and we recommend both.

    Cascade Climb
    Republic Square
    Lake Sevan

    The beautiful and kind people stood out. They were interested in us and welcoming. Like many of the countries we visit, we did not meet any other Americans. Most of the visitors are from Europe.

    Unique and kind people
    Genocide Memorial
    National Gallery of Armenia
    Mount Ararat on a cloudy day. Most of the mountain currently lies in Turkey and is one of Armenia’s border conflicts with that nation

    A shout out to the local Emergency Room too. Our wonderful Airbnb host personally escorted us to the emergency room on a Sunday, stayed with us the entire time and translated for us. We would have been lost without him. Our ER visit with CatScan and prescriptions was $128.

    We were lucky to have our Airbnb host help us at the hospital

    Armenians are proud of their unique language and alphabet. The Armenian alphabet, created in 405 AD by the linguist and theologian Mesrop Mashtots, is a unique script that reflects the rich cultural and historical heritage of the Armenian people.

    An outdoor exhibit explains the unique and ancient Armenian alphabet

    Food Glorious Food

    Our food tour and cooking class both provided us an eye-opening education to the cuisine of Armenia. We had amazing Khorovats – like a shishkebab grilled meat; dolma, vine leaf wrapped meat; ghapama (my favorite), a spectacular stuffed pumpkin or squash; gata – a sweet bread; pickles of every persuasion; jengyalov hac – an incredible herb filled flat bread wrap; and the famous lavash flat bread served at every meal.

    Making lavish in the giant oven
    Ghapama is a stuffed pumpkin meal

    Here below is a link to our YouTube video about Armenian Food. Delicious.

    Watch this video to learn more about the surprising cuisines of Armenia

    Yerevan, Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

    Yerevan, Armenia was a perfect place to spend a week. Plenty of time to see many historical sites, museums and parks and to eat the great food. We really enjoyed the people, the architecture and the culture. We enjoyed learning about the Armenian Apostolic Church (97% of Armenians are Christian) founded 301 AD. Christianity is the official state religion.

    Historic Yerevan Church

    This tiny country packs a powerful punch. Yerevan is small and easy to maneuver. It is an up and coming destination you should have on your radar. I highly recommend it. Yerevan Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

    Bond Historic Neighborhood of Yerevan

    We love it when you pin and share and comment about our posts. Be sure and come back next Friday for our post about Tbilisi Georgia.

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    Here We Go Again The Grand Adventure Part Nine

    The Grand Adventure Part Nine

    Well, it’s hard to believe we have been in the USA already for four months. I really tried to keep this summer quieter. More open. Free. Ha! Well, I guess I’ll try again next summer. But I have no regrets. We had wonderful time with our adult children, our moms and our friends. What a blessing it is to spend summers in the Pacific Northwest. And now, here we go again – the Grand Adventure Part Nine.

    The Caucuses
    The Stans

    What’s Next?

    We are making some changes to how we travel and to how we share this all with you. Crazy to think we are starting YEAR NINE of The Grand Adventure. Amazing how much we have experienced over the years. And we are not done yet. We will finish off 2024 with a seven week trip in the region known as the Caucasus and the Central Asian countries often referred to as The Stans. We will be on the go from September 15th – November 1st and then return to our home here in Washington State for the winter holidays.

    Some changes though – I plan to write fewer blogs and instead share more videos and reels, in keeping with the changing audience. I’ll still have blogs but not every Friday, and particularly on this intense itinerary not as frequent. See more about this below.

    Armenia (Canva)

    The Caucasus countries are Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan. In spring of 2020 we were supposed to travel by train through these countries as well as visit Ukraine. Well of course Covid put a stop to all of that.

    Georgia (Canva)

    The first three weeks of our seven week itinerary has us spending a week in each of these countries, staying in the capital cities of Yerevan, T’bilisi and Baku and enjoying the cities and day trips from each home base. I am really excited to see this unique region of the world.

    Azerbaijan (Canva)

    Intrepid

    After the Caucasus we will once again join Intrepid Travel for a group tour of Five Stans; Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Kazakhstan.

    Uzbekistan (Canva)

    This is our second time using Intrepid Travel. As you know it’s rare we travel by tour, and even more rare that we do a group tour. But we had such a positive experience with Intrepid on our eleven day tour of Bolivia we are confident and excited to do it again.

    Turkmenistan (Canva)

    This time however we will be traveling for 24 days. It’s a very long tour, we cover a lot of territory and five countries. Fingers crossed it all goes as planned. Lots of moving parts! I remain optimistic.

    Dubai

    On our way back to the USA we will spend a couple of days in Dubai, relaxing and enjoying this beautiful city. We have been here before, and we look forward to seeing a bit more. Then it’s back to the USA for the holiday season before departing again mid January.

    Dubai (Canva)

    Lots of Planning

    This seven week trip has included a great deal of detail oriented planning and we feel we are ready. We are excited to explore new places to us – nine countries in seven weeks.

    I will not be blogging while I’m on the move. Instead I will be focusing on daily videos, reels, YouTube and posts on our Instagram , Threads and Facebook pages. I’m looking forward to sharing in this format instead of blogging but will do in-depth blog posts when I return. Click the links and follow along – . Here we Go Again the Grand Adventure Part Nine! And by the way – if you have been following us on Twitter X we have left that platform so join us on one of our other options.

    Be sure to read last week’s post Travel Wardrobe – Seven Weeks and Nine Countries and you might also like this older post How to Prepare for a Long Haul Flight.

    We love it when you share and comment on our blog posts. We can’t wait for you to follow along on this exciting next adventure. Here We Go Again – The Grand Adventure Part Nine. Thank you!!