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All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail

May 16, 2025

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We spent nine days traveling in France by rail from Bordeaux to Paris on board the SNCF, the French rail service. We visited Lyon, Dijon and Luxembourg before reaching our final destination of Paris. Train travel in Europe is an excellent way to go, but be aware! We made a few mistakes and learned a few things. Here is a recap of our nine day trip – All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail.

Bordeaux

After four weeks living in Bordeaux we packed up and left with regrets. We truly loved our time in that wonderful city and we will definitely return. The morning we left to begin our traveling in France by rail adventure, our train departed at 6:00am…so the Uber arrived at 5:00am.

Bordeaux to Lyon Six Hours

Since we travel for extended periods we are not light packers, and this is the main drawback of traveling by rail. Several of our trains, including this first one, we were seated in the upper deck. It’s not an easy task dragging bags up the narrow stairs. Additionally the luggage racks are not big. On our first trek there were several cyclists, but no bike racks. Some trains do offer racks for bicycles. But on this first train the majority of the luggage space for our first leg was taken by bikes, leaving us with minimal options for our luggage. First lesson, when traveling in France by rail pack light.

We watched the sun come up and Venus rising too out the window as we headed to Tours where we would change to a different train. I immediately realized how much more you see from a train than when traveling by car. Miles and miles of gorgeous farmland and tiny villages.

Traveling in France by Rail

But before reaching Tours we encountered our first problem about traveling in France by rail. Let me explain:

We had purchased a France-only Eurail pass via the Eurail app. The pass we selected (about $200 per person) was good for four days of train travel – with the understanding that, for the high-speed trains we planned to travel on, a separate purchase of a reserved seat was required. After purchasing the reserved seats through the SNCF app, we got a ticket showing the reserved seat. The mistake was in thinking that this was our complete ticket – it’s not! It only shows that we had paid for the seat reservation – an additional step of validating the Eurail pass (via the Eurail app, NOT the SNCF app) for travel on that date and train is necessary. So when the ticket inspector approached, we showed him our seat reservation tickets, but he also wanted to see the validated Eurail pass – we had the pass but not the validation – he was not happy – in fact he was very rude. He let us go, without really explaining what we had done wrong, or if we needed to do something more. We were left confused.

Lyon

Arriving in Lyon for two nights, we made the right decision to stay at a hotel (Campanile Lyon Centre) next to the Part-Dieu train station. Lyon has two train stations (Perrache and Part Dieu) so make sure you book near the correct one. The train station is also the metro station, so we did not need to drag our bags into the old city. We love a good Metro, and Lyon’s was great.

We had two days to explore Lyon, which really wasn’t enough time but we hit the ground running. The weather was excellent.

We spent most of our time in Vieux Lyon (Old Town), and we used GPS My City to follow two different walking tours on our own. Over the two days we walked ALOT.

Day One

The city sits at the confluence of two rivers (the Rhone and the Saone), thus many bridges, and there is also an upper city. On day one we started with the upper city. We took the funicular (included in your Metro ticket) up to the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral with outstanding views over the city below. We wandered down through the botanical gardens and then around to the Theatre Gallo Romaine. The Ancient Theatre of Fourvière is a Roman theatre in Lyon. It was built on the hill of Fourvière, which is located in the center of the Roman city. The theatre is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site protecting the historic center of Lyon.

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring shops and food in the old town. We tasted the famous Lyon bright red pralines and dipped into one of the famous chocolate shops and enjoyed delicious treats.

Day Two

We love using GPS My City and we combined several options to spend the entire day exploring Lyon. We started with one of the most beautiful food markets I have ever seen, Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. You could spend the entire day here.

Moving on to Place Bellacour, visiting the Little Prince statue and then Place de Cistines, Lyon’s stunning 200 year old theatre.

Place Bellacour is Europes largest public square

So Much to See

We did a lot of climbing on this day visiting Lyon Cathedral, Place de Jacobins, Place de Terreaux. La Tour Rose and the Montee des Chazeaux steps. Eventually we crossed the river on the beautiful Passarelle Saint-Vincent pedestrian bridge and using GPS My City we found the Fresque de Lyonaise, a mural depicting historic figures of Lyon. We enjoyed a lovely stroll along the river on a beautiful day.

It’s a scavenger hunt to find La Tour Rose, but worth it.

There is much more to Lyon, and we will need to return for another visit. After a quick refresh at the hotel, we headed back to Rue Saint-Jean, the main old town shopping street for dinner at the famous Chez Grand-Mere. An underground restaurant where I enjoyed a Lyonnaise dish called quennelles. It was delicious.

The city has many gathering places of beauty and heritage

Dijon

Next morning we had an easier departure time of 11:00am. We said our farewells to Lyon and boarded our next train.

Lyon to Dijon Four Hours

Alas we encountered another problem when the ticket steward came along. This time we had a woman who was sympathetic to us being novices, and she took a great deal of time to explain to us in detail what we had done wrong…something the first rude guy did not do. She was very helpful even though we had to pay 50 Euro due to our mistake….not having completed adding the specific date and train to our Eurail pass via the Eurail app. But we felt confident we finally had it right. She told us this is a common mistake…and the added costs can be much more than she charged us. So be aware!

Bonjour Dijon

Arriving in Dijon we were met by our American friends who live half time in Dijon, and the other half in the USA. It was a great treat to have them as our escort on our first day. It was about a 15 minute easy walk from the train station to old town. After checking in to the hotel (B&B Hotel Dijon Centre) located in a great location of the old town, we headed out to explore.

With only two days in this great city, it was nice to have “locals” to give us the scoop on the best things to see and do. We walked throughout the old town, as they shared with us their favorites and suggested things for us to do on our own on day two. We ended our day with our friends at a little hole-in-the-wall place they love called La Cave Se Rebiffe. Essentially a wine bar with a huge wine menu and a tiny food menu. We ate charcuterie, terrine, pasta and blood sausage with lots of great local wine from the Burgundy region.

Day Two

Day two we hit the ground running on our own. We headed first to Liberation Square for photos of the famous Ducal Palace. The Palace of the Dukes and Estates of Burgundy or Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne is a remarkably well-preserved architectural assemblage built in the 15th century. Today it houses the City Hall and the Beaux Arts Museum. We headed to the tourist office to obtain a 12 euro ticket to climb the Phillip the Good Tower later in the afternoon with a guide. That tower climb really was one of my favorite things in the city.

History, Food, Wine, Oh My

Next we went cathedral hopping – Dijon is a small village with an astonishing number of cathedrals. The Notre Dame Cathedral and its famous (somewhat hidden) owl sculpture, has become a symbol of this city.

We loved the Rue des Forges and the beautiful half timbered houses, many currently being lovingly restored and preserved. We made our way to the world famous Edmond Fallot Mustard shop. Fallot is the only remaining family-owned and -operated mustard factory in the Dijon region. I have been buying this brand of mustard every time I’m in France for the past twenty years. So delicious. I stocked up for gifts and for myself.

Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne

Since many businesses and restaurants are closed on Monday in France, we asked our local friends for a dinner suggestion. They said Parapluie (translation: umbrella). We made a reservation not knowing anything about this restaurant, and ended up being absolutely charmed by the chef’s choice menu, incredible wine selection, outstanding service and the unexpectedly reasonable price. I highly recommend.

We woke up early on our departure day and walked over the the Halles de Dijon. It had been closed on Monday so we wanted to see it briefly Tuesday morning before we left. One of the best food halles in France. Such a variety of local delicacies for sale. Next time I will spend an entire day there.

I could easily have spent another three or four days in this lovely, walkable, delicious medieval city. I hope to be back.

Luxembourg

Traveling in France by Rail

Our train to Luxembourg left about a half an hour late, which apparently is unusual when traveling in France by rail. But we eventually got on our way and luckily this time, no issues with our ticket! However, please note if you are traveling on the France-only Eurail pass, you need a separate ticket for the last leg from the final stop in France into Luxembourg. We did not change trains, but we did need two separate tickets (nobody checked, but we did not want to risk it!).

Dijon to Luxembourg 3 hours

The tiny country of Luxembourg gave us our 148th country, and what a lovely place it was. The only constitutional duchy in the world, it is often referred to as the Grand Duchy. A constitutional duchy is a territory ruled by a duke or duchess, but where the ruler’s powers are limited by a constitution. The duchy itself is the territory or domain, while the ruler’s title is the dukedom.

Luxembourg City is much larger than Dijon and we took a cab from the train station to our hotel (Hotel Vauban). I loved the location of our hotel right on Place Guillaume II, and perfectly situated in the old center. We were happy to be here for two nights.

Get Your Walking Shoes

Luxembourg City and the lower village of Gund are all quite walkable. But if you don’t want to go up and down the hills, take advantage of the FREE public transportation (tram and bus). We however enjoyed walking everywhere as we usually do.

There is a lot to enjoy in Luxembourg so we dropped our bags at the hotel and headed out to explore. We took our time leisurely walking through the beautiful medieval old town, before arriving at the Bock Casemates – a must-see when in Luxembourg. The Bock Casemates, a subterranean defense system made up of kilometers of tunnels, is today one of the most important visitor sites in Luxembourg. These underground galleries were initially carved in the 17th century, under Spanish rule, and subsequently twice extended.

Next we did a lovely walk down in the lower village known as Gund, stopping for a cold drink at the Good Weather Bar, only open in good weather! From the outdoor bar and on our walk we enjoyed picturesque views along the Alzette River. It truly looks like something out of a fairy tale. We made our way to the city’s oldest brewery, now a restaurant, called Big Beer and had a giant and delicious early dinner. Luxembourg has it’s own cuisine that leans a bit more German than French but also all it’s own. The pork knuckle was as big as my head. We continued our Gund walk to the Panoramic Elevator of the Pfaffenthal. A free elevator that takes people back up to the upper city with great views too.

Day Two

We woke up and looked out the window of our room to find a weekly market set up on the square in front of the hotel. So we started our day walking through and admiring all the fresh items for sale. Next we walked over the Pont Adolphe bridge and back over the La Passerelle bridge, in an effort see all angles of the beautiful city, before meeting our free walking tour.

A variety of old and modern bridges keep Luxembourg moving

Free Walkingt Tour

We do free (tip based) walking tours in many cities, and this two-plus hour tour was really exceptional. We visited the palace, the old fish market, Saint Michael’s Cathedral, Notre Dame Cathedral, the Monument of Remembrance and walked along the stunning ancient Chemin de la Corniche. You could easily visit all these on your own, but having a local guide to explain the history, give restaurant tips and insider information is always worth it.

After the tour we were starving so we headed to one of the city’s best restaurants for local cuisine, Brasserie du Cercle. I wanted to try the local dumpling dish called Kniddelen and Arne had a potato pancake with pork called Gromperekichelcher. Both were great. It was a hot day and the local Luxembourg beer was a perfect match.

After an afternoon of shopping for gifts and treats we had a rest at the hotel before dinner at Um Dierfgen. We were still full from lunch but we enjoyed a light dinner including the local seasonal specialty of white asparagus.

Luxembourg’s famous Chocolate House Nathanal Bonn

It was a whirlwind tour of this beautiful place and I am so glad we made the time to visit Luxembourg City. But now it’s time to head to Paris.

Paris

Of course we have visited Paris before (a few times) but we always look forward to seeing this beautiful city of lights. So back on board we go!

Luxembourg City to Paris Three Hours

Arriving in Paris at Gare de Est we decided to take an Uber rather than wrangle our bags on the Metro. But we used the Paris Metro the rest of our time and it is such a great metro system.

Since we have been to Paris many times, we decided to not do all the major attractions, except we really wanted to see the newly reopened Notre Dame.

Parisians enjoying a sunny May Day bank holiday

Our hotel, (the Hotel Le Compostelle), was in the Marais neighborhood, and we spent our first afternoon wandering and enjoying the sites and sounds and smells of the Marais. We were there on a holiday (May Day) and all the Parisians were out enjoying the fine spring weather. We then met our good friends who live in Paris at a restaurant called Acme and it was incredible! One of the best meals we have ever had in Paris. Multi course, chef’s choice dinner with an amazing wine pairing. We ate, sipped and talked well into the night, sitting outside on a warm night. Parfaite!

Day Two

Next morning we were up early (thank you coffee) because we had a reserved time to enter Notre Dame. I highly recommend getting a reserved time if you will be in Paris during the busy season. You can go on the Notre Dame website at 12:01 am two days before you want to visit and reserve a time. You can also wait in line, but the line can sometimes be hours long, so we recommend reserving a time. I loved seeing the new Notre Dame, it has been so lovingly restored and it is stunning. Don’t miss it.

We spent the rest of this day wandering and enjoying our favorite sites including Jardin de Luxembourg, and views of Tour Eiffel. I wanted to visit two iconic Paris shops for souvenirs – Marin Montagut and La Grand Epicerie de Paris. We also visited Rue Montorgueil, a new-to-us area of Paris with so many restaurants. Here we had a perfect Nicoise Salad and wine for lunch at Les Artizans. Back to the hotel for a rest and then out to an amazing dinner at Grand Coeur. Wow the beef tenderloin for two was incredible. Highly recommend.

Day Three

The forecast said possible late afternoon thunderstorms but the day dawned bright and blue. We took the train outside of the city to the stunning and new-to-us Parc de Sceaux – a hidden gem just outside of Paris. Here we met a group of women from a Facebook walking group I am in, and spent the next two hours talking to them (most expats from United Kingdom) and exploring this stunning park. Such a joy.

Back into the city to meet our friend again to explore the Carnavalet Museum, one Paris museum we had never visited. I heard great things about this museum, and we only had two hours which was not enough. We really enjoyed the historic presentation and will check it out again on our next visit.

Expect the Unexpected

Just as we were getting ready to leave the museum, we witnessed one of the most astonishing weather events of my life. In a matter of minutes the weather changed from blue sky and sun to black clouds, fierce wind and golf ball size hail. It hailed so hard and so much the hail piled up on the street like snow. Luckily we were not caught outside because people were injured and many cars and outdoor venues were damaged. Trees were down. It was wild and crazy.

Not only was it our final night in Paris, but it was our final night of this four month, seven country journey. We were tired and ready to head home. But we enjoyed one last Paris meal at Au Bourguignon du Marais This famous restaurant is a bit touristy, but it was close to our hotel and we had a good meal and also enjoyed visiting the two oldest houses in Paris just down the street. The medieval half timbered houses on the Rue Francois Miron are the only ones remaining in Paris, built in the 15th century.

Rue Francois Miron timbered houses still in use

Traveling in France by Rail

Five cities in nine days using the France Rail SNCF… was a fun experience. Easy and efficient the train also provides a relaxing trip, with WIFi and the most amazing views. I would definitely do it again, but with smaller suitcases. You should consider traveling in France by Rail.

We had a very early Uber ride to Charles de Gaulle for our flight back to the USA and our summer home in Washington State. Merci France. We loved our five plus weeks enjoying your culture, food, wine and history. Au Revoir. Abientot!

Thank you for reading my post All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail. Be sure to see our post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux and last week’s post What’s Next for My Fab Fifites Life. Over the next few weeks I will continue to have Wednesday book reviews, but will take a wee break from writing travel content. I promise to return soon.

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My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France

May 2, 2025

Laureen

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Bordeaux. It’s the wine and a whole lot more. During our month-long visit to Bordeaux we rented a car for one week, giving us easy access to some of the beautiful villages outside the city. Even if you visit Bordeaux for only a few days, try to get outside the city. Here are my suggestions for My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France.

Take a Tour

You do not need a car to get outside of the city. There are many tour options, and the train also goes to many locations. If you are short on time, I recommend a day trip with Olala Tours. We joined a tour with Olala early in our visit to Bordeaux that took us to Saint Emilion and to the Margaux Medoc region. This was a great introduction to the nuances of Bordeaux regional wines. We loved the tiny medieval village of Saint Emilion so we chose to go back there later with the car.

In Margaux Medoc region on our Olala tour

Wine tasting in the Margaux Medoc region

My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France

We had the car for a week and we made five trips outside of the city during that time. We had beautiful weather on four of those days. Here are my recommendations;

Saint Emilion

Drive – It is about an hour drive to Saint Emilion, longer depending on traffic. We did not have any problem finding parking at 10am, but the lot was full after lunch.

Train – the train takes less time, but drops you about a mile from town. A walk or bike ride on to Saint Emilion is required.

What to do – Saint Emilion is one of the most famous wine regions in the world, with more than 800 wineries in the small appellation -you can’t possibly visit them all. Bordeaux’s famous red wines are made from a blend of grape varieties, with Merlot being the dominant variety, and also including Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines are known for their rich, full-bodied and complex character, with good aging potential.

Be sure to book AHEAD for the guided tour of the Monolithic underground church

Start your visit walking around the beautiful village for amazing views and shopping and coffee or lunch. Book in advance to take a tour of the amazing Monolithic church, only accessible by tour. No photos inside, but take my word for it – it is definitely worth it. If you don’t have a car, enjoy a tasting at one of the many wine shops in the village.

Tastings

With a car you must wander out into the miles and miles of vineyards and experience wine tasting with the wine masters of the Saint Emilion appellation. We visited three wineries and I recommend each one for a completely different experience; Chateau Chauvin (we visited with a tour), and on our own Haut Rocher and Chateau Saint Georges. Booking ahead is recommended.

Haut Rocher in the same family for 800 years

Saint Georges beautiful Chateau and gardens and massive storage facility

Lunch in the vineyard at Chateau Chavin with Olala Tours

There are many tours available from Bordeaux to Saint Emilion. This is an absolute not to miss day trip from Bordeaux on your own or with a tour.

Saint Emilion’s oldest timbered house and original stone gate

Arcachon and Dune du Pilat

Drive – Arcachon is less than an hour by car west to the Atlantic ocean. Plenty of parking available.

Train – The train from Bordeaux will drop you in the center of Arcachon, but to visit Dune du Pilat you need a car or tour.

What to do – We started our visit at the Les Halle des Arcachon to indulge in Arcachon’s world famous oysters. Oysters and seafood are two of the main attractions to the region. If you love them as we do you must visit. We also did a self guided walk along the beach promenade, and hiked up the hill to admire the 19th century mansions and the view back down to the town. If you are interested there are boat tours out to the small outer islands. We did not do this.

The Dune du Pilat is an amazing not to be missed sand dune about 40 minutes to the south of Arcachon. I was blown away by the size of this natural phenomenon that juts up from the sea, Europe’s tallest dune. Learn more about it here. It’s a fun hike, accessible by stairs if you don’t want to crawl up, and the view is worth it. I highly recommend visiting Dune du Pilat if you can. So fascinating.

Some people take off their shoes and walk up

Bergerac

Drive – a bit further afield is the beautiful medieval village of Bergerac. It took us an hour and half to arrive in Bergerac. We easily found paid parking

Train – the train takes about the same time as driving and it is an easy 1km walk from the station into the historic center.

What to do – Bergerac is in the Perigord region, outside of the Bordeaux region. We visited on a Monday, when many things are closed, but we found some shops and restaurants open for visitors. We did a self guided tour of the village, famous for the ancient timbered buildings, many currently being carefully restored and protected. I really enjoyed the beautiful river walk, and views across the Dordogne river. We sat outside at a tiny cafe (such a French thing to do) and had great food, wine and service.

Visit Bergerac for the ancient timbered buildings most still in use today

Feels like the French town in Beauty and the Beast

After lunch we drove about twenty minutes outside town to Chateau Monbazillac An ancient Chateau built in the 16th century with fascinating story you can learn on a self-guided immersive tour. The tour includes a glass of wine (this area is known for sweet whites) in their tasting room. It’s worth it for the views and gardens too. So peaceful.

Although it is farther, I recommend visiting Bergerac. The history was incredible. You could combine Bergerac and Saint Emilion but it would be a very long day.

Cape Ferret

Drive – headed west again Cape Ferret is a beautiful oyster producing region about an hour and twenty minutes drive from Bordeaux.

Train – really not an option

What to do – we were blessed with excellent weather (actually hot) and our Cape Ferret goal was to hike. We started at the end of the road (La Pointe du Cap Ferret) where there was a small parking lot and restroom. We did a loop walk along the ocean hiking through both wooded area and ocean beach for a total of five miles. The Cap Ferret lighthouse (‘phare’ in French) is a beacon in the distance, but was not really our destination although it is open for visitors. We sat on the beach just east of the lighthouse, ate the picnic we had brought from home, and watched many brave souls enjoy a brisk ocean swim. There are many small oyster restaurants as well as places to buy fresh oysters to take home. From this side of the bay you can look back across to Dune du Pilat (see above).

It would be possible to combine Cap Ferret with Arcachon if you had a car and were open to a very full day.

La Reole

Drive – We drove in a rain storm about an hour and twenty minutes. Part of the drive is on highway and part is through pretty little ancient villages and vineyards

Train – the train is faster, about 45 minutes, but drops you a few hundred meters outside of the village

What to do – unfortunately the day we went to La Reole we got caught in a total monsoon. Our goal was to visit the Saturday morning market (8am-1pm), touted as one of the best markets in all of France. We did visit, but in a deluge. There is a big parking lot just west of the market, which is located along the Dordogne river. We made our purchases from a butcher, poulet producer, and fruits and vegetables vendor. Across from the market there is a public elevator that takes you up to the medieval village. We managed to only see a little bit of this ancient town though, as it really was not possible in the storm. What we did see was beautiful though and you should give it a try.

Lots of shoppers despite the wet weather

Looking from the upper town down to the market and river

You could combine Le Reole with a Saint Emilion day or a visit to Cadillac.

And There is More

We did visit Margaux Medoc with the tour we took, but I wished we could have had another day exploring the wine region of Medoc because it is more than just Margaux. I also had hoped to visit Blaye and Cadillac…those will need to wait for our next visit.

Beautiful gardens at Chateau Saint Georges

There are many destinations within easy access from Bordeaux if you wanted to do an overnight trip. We did not, but I would definitely consider this on our next long visit to the region. Toulouse is about two and half hours by car. Cognac is about two hours by car. Spain’s Basque region is less than three hours by car. Everything about this region is historic, delicious and beautiful. I want to live here.

Southwest France

Southwest France and the Bordeaux region are not as well known as some of France’s other destinations, and that of course makes it more desirable for me. Less expensive, less crowded but still interesting, delicious and fun. I learned more about wine during our visit to Bordeaux than I had in all my life. Everyday was fascinating. It’s time to consider the Nouvelle Acquitane region of France for your next travel adventure. J’ai adoré. A bientôt Bordeaux. Merci!

Please note -. Road Construction and train services change frequently. Please do your research for the most current information.

Thank you for reading my post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France. See last week’s post Discover Bordeaux France and Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City here.

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Europe Travel

Discover Bordeaux France

It’s More Than Just Wine

April 25, 2025

Laureen

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Although I was able to visit Bordeaux for a long leisurely stay, you can really enjoy this city with only a few days. Bordeaux has a surprising food scene (read last week’s blog post Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City), as well as culture, arts, nature and history. It is still relatively under the radar as far as destinations in France, and I fell completely in love with it. Come with me to Discover Bordeaux France.

From the Cite du Vin viewing the Pont Jacques Chaban Delmas Bridge through my wine

Walkable

One of the best things about this incredible city is how walkable it is. There is a tram, inexpensive and convenient, but during our month long stay we walked and walked. Our Airbnb was exactly one mile to the iconic Saint Andre and the start of the old city. Bordeaux’s historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is full of marvelous limestone architecture dating back through the centuries.

Cailhau Gate entrance to Old Town Bordeaux

Though Neanderthal findings of the region date back 20,000 years, the city itself was founded in the 12th century. The region has a remarkable history under French and English rule. Read about it here.

When visiting any new city, I always advise you do a walking tour – especially if you have a short amount of time. A walking tour will orient you, give you great historic insight as well as recommendations on how to spend your time. We loved our tour with Free Bordeaux Walking Tours.

Looking at historic Bordeaux from across the Garonne

We also loved our Food and Wine Tour with Bordeaux Bites. I highly recommend this tour for getting an overview of the foods of Bordeaux and France. Our guide Alex was a wealth of information and we loved all the tasty treats and wine we had on our tour. Read my post from last week all about the foods of the city; Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

Alex from Bordeaux Bites was an amazing guide

The River

The Garonne is the focus of Bordeaux both today and historically. The river is where wine was transported for centuries, and still today the port is active for river cruises, tour boats and pleasure boats. Because Bordeaux is situated just 100km from the sea, the Garonne River has a surprising tidal change, and due to that tidal change, and the clay river floor, the water appears to be brown. This is not pollution, and locals like to refer to it as caramel.

Pont de Pierre built in 1860 was the first bridge to cross the Garonne River at Bordeaux

We enjoyed an afternoon boat ride with Yacht Bordeaux which we booked through Get Your Guide. It was informative and beautiful. From the water it’s a expansive view back to the city, and our guide who spoke both in French and English delighted us with tidbits of the city.

We enjoyed learning about the history and the river on our boat tour

Be sure to spend some time along the Garonne promenade area, a literal highway for cyclists and pedestrians. Walk and enjoy seeing the river-cruise boats in port, the historic view of the UNESCO Old City, or dine at one of the many restaurants near the Cite du Vin. It’s a lovely and popular place with both visitors and locals.

Miroir d’eau is one of the beautiful attractions along the Garonne promenade

Wine (duh)

Bordeaux lives and breathes wine. It is what truly defines both the city and the region. Bordeaux wine production began sometime after 43 AD, during the Roman occupation of Gaul, when the Romans established vineyards to cultivate wine for the soldiers. However, it is only in 71 AD that Pliny the Elder recorded the first real evidence of vineyards in Bordeaux. Wines of Bordeaux are the second oldest in France, with Provence taking the lead.

Although white wine is certainly available, Bordeaux IS red wine. The reds are medium- to full-bodied with bold aromas of black currant, plums and an earthiness like smelling wet soil or pencil lead. Depending on the quality, vintage and what region within Bordeaux the wine is from, fruit flavors range from more tart fruit to sweeter ripe fruit.

When Thomas Jefferson was in France (before he was President) his love of Bordeaux wines helped bring attention to the region and its fine wine.

Enjoying a glass of wine from on top the Cite du Vin

New to Wine? Pas de Soucis (do not worry)

In next week’s blog post I’ll talk about visiting vineyards and villages outside of the city, possible with a tour or on your own. For a one day tour I recommend Olala tours. Consider the full day tour of Saint Emilion and Medoc. But if you have limited time here are my wine suggestions;

It’s easy to learn about wine in Bordeaux. It’s what they do.

La Cite de Vin – visit Bordeaux’s wine museum, in a unique but somewhat controversial architectural building on the river Garonne. City of Wine is a bit expensive ($35 Euro) but if you want to learn about history of the region, wine and also enjoy some wine, be sure and add this to your visit.

Learning about the different aromas of wine

Wine Shops – Bordeaux is home to dozens of wine shops, many also serving as tasting rooms. Everywhere we visited the staff was helpful, unpretentious and spoke English. Our favorite was L’Indentant. Even if you don’t plan to buy wine, you must visit L’Indentant to see the spiral wine staircase. Stunning.

Wine Bars – there are nearly as many wine bars in Bordeaux as Wine shops…sometime they are combined. If you just want to try a glass or two with some nibbles, a wine bar is a great option. The absolute best wine bar in Bordeaux is Bar a Vin. It is affordable, service is helpful and it is in a beautiful space.

Be sure to visit L’Intendant Grand Bordeaux

Wine Tasting – many, many options in the city for tasting, but if you want something really special sign up to visit La Pied a Terre. This humble shop near the Opera House is run by two enthusiastic and knowledgeable brothers. During the two-hour class we learned so much great information about local and world wines, tasted three wines and had a lot of fun. Highly recommend.

Cathedrals

Bordeaux is home to many beautiful cathedrals. As in most European cities, cathedrals are open to visitors all day, even during services. We are not Catholic, but we always make a point to step into any cathedral or basilica when traveling. And since Bordeaux is so walkable, we found ourselves in some beautiful churches. GPS My City has a Cathedral walking tour I recommend, as well as an architecture tour you should try.

Saint Andre was originally constructed in the eleventh century

Saint Michel Basilica was built in the 14th century

Arts and Culture

Bordeaux is home to the beautiful Grand Theatre de Opera with many performances. We make a point in many cities to visit the historic theaters when possible, and we did here. Our visit was for a modern dance performance which was excellent. We really enjoyed seeing the beautiful historic architecture of this building built in 1780.

Beautiful Bordeaux Opera House Grand Theater

If you have time, Bordeaux has many art museums, history museums and maritime museums. See the list here.

Nature

If you have enough time to take a day and get out into nature close to the city, we have two recommendations for you. On the right bank of the Garonne, a paved trail runs the entire way from Saint Jean bridge to Jacques Chaban-Delmas bridge, with beautiful trees, flowers and views back across the river to the historic old town. It’s a flat, easy and beautiful walk.

Many things to admire on a walk on the right side of the river

Even better, take the C tram to Parc des Expositions (the end of the line), then walk about a kilometer to Reserve Ecologique des Barails. We spent half a day here enjoying the beautiful spring blooms and bird watching. We had a picnic and nearly had the entire park to ourselves.

Loved the quiet Reserve Ecologique des Barails

Markets

Everyday somewhere in the city is a market. Near Saint Andre, the center of the old town, a market seems to happen everyday. We perused a book market, a vintage market and a fresh produce and cheese market.

On Thursday and Sunday along the Garonne promenade a really nice market brings fish mongers, meat vendors, produce and cheese vendors to the people. This is a popular place to eat oysters and drink wine with friends, especially on Sunday.

Marche de Capucins is the main market in Bordeaux, and it lies on the far south end of the old city, just past the beautiful Saint Michel Basilica. If you go, be sure to visit in the morning to see the local producers at work. It’s also a great place to grab lunch.

Bon Appetit

I’ll mention again my blog post from last week Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City – a few amazing suggestions. If you have time and want to delve deeper into the cuisine of the region, book a cooking class with Chef Daniel and Erica at The Gastronome Bordeaux. When I return to Bordeaux (and I will) I want to take their immersive class. You will learn a lot from David and Erica.

Discover Bordeaux France

Dare I say I liked it more than Paris? It’s less expensive, less crowded and unpretentious – all things we love. The food, wine, history, shopping and people are amazing. I am so glad to Discover Bordeaux France. I think I could live here. Get beautiful Bordeaux on your travel list soon – before others Discover Bordeaux France.

Come back next week for my post on Day Trips from Bordeaux France.

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Europe Travel

Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City

April 18, 2025

Laureen

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Location: Bordeaux France

Bonjour Bordeaux! Spending an entire month in the underrated French city of Bordeaux has been such a lovely luxury. We have enjoyed beautiful spring weather, surprisingly low prices, kind and generous people and of course incredible food. Let me tell you all about Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

Bon Appitit

I have visited France numerous times, but this was my first visit to Bordeaux. It was recommended to us by Parisian friends as a great location for a long stay. And indeed it has been. Still flying under the radar, this ancient city on the Garonne River is undergoing a renaissance. Over the past twenty years Bordeaux has gone from dilapidated to divine. Cleaned up, yet still a bit gritty – Bordeaux is un-apologetically authentic. And the food is well…magnifique. Let’s talk about it.

Pain (Bread)

Eat the pain. Eat all the bread. Bread from a boulangerie in France is delicious and due to no preservatives, better for you. Unlike grocery store bread in the USA, bread in France needs to be purchased and consumed daily for freshness. It’s amazing how much better it is. Bread in France, like many local foods, is highly regulated by the government to ensure quality. To be called a “boulangerie”, a bakery must make its own bread fresh on-site, no pre-made dough allowed. A baguette must weigh 250-300 g, be 55-65 cm long, and any bread labeled “tradition française” must be produced following a very specific recipe. And as someone with a sensitive tummy, I notice no issues when eating in France.

A patisserie is a French bakery that sells pastries. In France and Belgium patisserie is also regulated and using the word is restricted to bakeries who employ licensed maître pâtissier (master pastry chefs).

So delicious, every bite. This is the tiny local boulangerite where we bought our bread.

Viande & Voaille (Meat & Poultry)

Beef, lamb, pork, duck! We ate it all and more. French cuisine features meat and poultry often, and we specifically visited several restaurants to enjoy these classics. I had steak tartare at a little hole in the wall called Petit Mignon (Arne had a giant hamburger) and we ate lamb, duck and fois gras at La Tupina. We also had grilled pork and steak frites for lunch at Brasserie de Chartrons. Bordeaux takes these classics seriously while also focusing on local specialties. All served with the most incredible Bordeaux wine.

It’s not for everyone but I love steak tartare

Grilled duck with fois gras at La Tupina. One of the best meals I have ever had.

Fall off the bone tender pork at Brasserie de Chartrons

Fruit de Mer (Seafood)

Though on a river, the city of Bordeaux is only 100km from the Atlantic ocean. This proximity makes seafood abundant, fresh and delicious. We love shellfish and had local oysters on several occasions as well as delicious moules (muscles). In addition we enjoyed squid, sea bass, tuna and octopus.

Fried shrimp and octopus at Les Halles des Bacalan

Canele (Bordeaux’s Favorite)

The name canelé comes from the French word for “fluted.” According to cookbooks, the canele Bordelaise could date back to anywhere between the 15th and 18th centuries, and most of the history books concur that the pastry originated in various convents around the winemaking regions of Bordeaux in Southern France.

On arrival in Bordeaux we immediately noticed shops selling these sweet little bites. There are a couple of chain stores that sell them, but luckily and unknowingly we popped into a small proprietor, considered Bordeaux’s best – Cassanade. Very delicious crunchy exterior with a creamy rum and vanilla baked center. Hard to describe but definitely easy to eat.

Nourriture Ethnique (Ethnic Choices)

Bordeaux is home to wide range of immigrants who have brought their cuisines to this international city. Lebanese, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, Italian and even Mexican which I find is rare in Europe. One we tried and loved was a delicious Peruvian restaurant called Blind. Blind had a prix-fixe dinner menu (very common) with Peruvian classics like ceviche presented with a French twist. Very good.

We also visited an amazing Cambodian restaurant just a few minutes walk from our apartment called Kampot. Lovely little spots like these are authentic and delicious. The proprietor was our host, waiter and cook! So very kind and the food was delicious!

Amazing coconut lemongrass soup at Kampot

If You Only Have a Few Days

I get it, most people don’t come to Bordeaux for an entire month. So I have a couple of recommendations if you only have a few days. Definitely plan ahead and make some bookings. Remember that the majority of restaurants are open from about noon to 2:30pm then close and don’t reopen until 7:00 or 7:30. Many restaurants (and shops too) are closed on Monday. There are some touristic places near the main squares that you might find open all day. But it is our recommendation to try to eat where the locals eat. And that means eating during the hours the locals eat. This is how we indulged in Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.

Fresh in season white asparagus is very popular in the spring. Tender and delicious

Bordeaux Bites

Definitely find time to do a food and wine walking tour with Bordeaux Bites. If you can start your visit with this tour, you will come away with a great understanding of what makes the food scene of Bordeaux tick. I highly recommend it. Our guide Alex was amazing and he emailed me after the tour many restaurant suggestions. Merci Alex!

We learned so much about the nuances of French fromage

We tasted many meats and pates on our tour

The Gastronome Bordeaux

We loved our cooking/baking class with Chef Daniel and Erica at The Gastronome Bordeaux. This is where we learned the history and nuances of Bordeaux’s iconic sweet treat canele. I can highly recommend this class, but you might also consider their full cooking class with market tour or their duck class. Delicieuse!

Look what I made! So yummy. I need to try this at home.

Les Halles des Bacalan

This wonderful food hall, Les Halles des Bacalan, is such a delight…we ate there twice. Especially if you only have a few days in Bordeaux, this collection of gourmet delights under one roof is perfect. Popular with locals and visitors, you can walk around and choose what looks good and sample many different foods of the region. We had seafood, wine, charcuterie, and more. I highly recommend.

Wine Tasting

Of course I have to at least mention wine…we are in Bordeaux after all – where they produce over 700 million bottles of wine a year. Everywhere you go to eat there will be a wide variety of local wine offerings at amazing prices (compared to USA prices). Do not worry if you know little or nothing about wine. Ask just few questions, or ask the waiter to make a recommendation. Everyone we met was kind and helpful and very willing to introduce the local wines to novices. It’s surprisingly unpretentious.

Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City, included lots and lots of wine. Not just at every meal, but also at wine bars. A wine bar or a wine shop (most also serve as wine bars) is an exceptional way to be guided through the delicious local wines. We particularly liked Le Bar a Vin.

I’ll have more about wine in Bordeaux in our next two blog posts coming soon.

Marche des Capucins

Everyday somewhere in the city there seems to be markets; book market, vintage market, flea markets. And on Thursday and Sunday along the Garonne river there is a beautiful fresh produce and fish market. But Bordeaux’s main market is open every day – the Marche des Capucins. We enjoyed it for produce, cheese, meat and oysters. Even if you aren’t cooking yourself, you still should visit (in the morning is best) to see the colorful market at work. It’s also a great place to have fresh oysters and sandwiches.

Amazing assortment of pates, saucisson (sausage), and prepared foods

Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City

There is much more than food in this beautiful city. So I hope you will come back next week to read about my recommendations to Discover Bordeaux. I also hope you will get Bordeaux on your travel list, sooner rather than later. Come in the spring. Come in the fall. Even come in the winter. But please don’t come in the summer. You will love the city more completely without the crowds, tour buses and cruise ships.

I can’t get enough French coffee, here we shared a chocolate covered crepe and watched the world go by.

I definitely will be back – maybe even for more than a month. Merci Bordeaux. J’adore Bordeaux!

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Europe Travel

Baku, Azerbaijan

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

November 22, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Baku Azerbaijan

Welcome to the third of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Baku, Azerbaijan.

Wow. Baku was just Wow. A surprisingly modern city, full of culture and color – we really enjoyed our week-long visit to Baku, Azerbaijan. Let’s talk about it.

Where Am I?

We flew from Tbilisi, Georgia to Baku, Azerbaijan on Azerbaijan airlines. It was an easy one hour flight. We hired a car to take us to our Airbnb located just a few blocks from the old city. Although I didn’t love this Airbnb (smelled like cigarettes), I did love both the location and the view.

View of the Flaming Towers from our Airbnb

Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, sits on the Caspian Sea. This was my first glimpse of the immense and blue Caspian.

The Caspian is the world’s largest inland body of water, often described as the world’s largest lake and sometimes referred to as a full-fledged sea. It has a salinity of approximately 1.2% (12 g/L), about a third of the salinity of average seawater. It is bounded by Kazakhstan to the northeast, Russia to the northwest, Azerbaijan to the southwest, Iran to the south, and Turkmenistan to the southeast.

The sea stretches 1,200 km (750 mi) from north to south, with an average width of 320 km (200 mi). Its gross coverage is 386,400 km² (149,200 sq mi) and the surface is about 27 m (89 ft) below sea level. Its main freshwater inflow, Europe’s longest river, the Volga, enters at the shallow north end. (Wikipedia)

Azerbaijan has no diplomatic relations with Armenia to its west, but has good relations with its other neighbors Russia, Georgia and Iran.

A Little History

Azerbaijan, located at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, has a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was inhabited by various tribes, including the Medes and Persians, and later became part of the Achaemenid Empire. Throughout the centuries, Azerbaijan was influenced by various cultures and empires, including the Greeks, Romans, and Arabs. In the early Middle Ages, it became a center of Islamic culture and learning. The Seljuk Turks and later the Safavid dynasty played significant roles in shaping the region’s political and cultural landscape, with Tabriz emerging as a prominent cultural hub.

In the 19th century, Azerbaijan fell under Russian control following the Russo-Persian Wars, leading to significant societal changes and the emergence of a national identity. The early 20th century saw the brief establishment of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic in 1918, which was the first secular democratic republic in the Muslim world. However, this independence was short-lived, as Azerbaijan was incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920. During the Soviet era, Azerbaijan underwent industrialization and urbanization, but it also faced repression. The country regained its independence in 1991 following the collapse of the Soviet Union. Since then, Azerbaijan has navigated challenges related to its territorial disputes, particularly with Armenia over Nagorno-Karabakh, while seeking to establish itself as a significant player in the region’s energy and political landscape.

The Bad

As an American who believes in democracy and human rights, the current authoritarian government of Azerbaijan is disturbing. I was careful not to criticize or comment on the ruling party while in the country.

As of 2023, Azerbaijan’s political climate is characterized by a centralized and authoritarian governance structure, with a strong emphasis on stability and control by the ruling party. President Ilham Aliyev, who has been in power since 2003 following the death of his father, Heydar Aliyev, leads a government that is often criticized for suppressing dissent, limiting political freedoms, and curtailing media independence. Political opposition is fragmented and faces significant challenges, including imprisonment of opposition leaders and activists, which has raised concerns among international human rights organizations.

The political landscape is further complicated by ongoing territorial disputes, particularly with Armenia over the Nagorno-Karabakh region. Following a brief war in 2020, Azerbaijan regained control over significant territories in the region, which has fostered a sense of nationalism and pride among many Azerbaijanis. However, the government also faces challenges related to economic diversification, corruption, and social inequality. While the country has substantial oil and gas resources that contribute to its economy, there is an increasing call for political reforms and greater transparency in governance, especially from civil society and younger generations seeking more democratic governance. Overall, Azerbaijan’s political climate remains tightly controlled, with the government prioritizing stability and territorial integrity over political pluralism and civil liberties.

The military forceful take over of Nagorno-Karabakh has caused tension with the United Nations and European Union. Calls for a renegotiation of the relationship with Azerbaijan are under review.

The Good

Despite the government structure, there is progressive religious freedom in Azerbaijan with a secular system that welcomes all religions, though the majority of the population is Muslim. Additionally, despite its oil wealth, Azerbaijan has a progressive alternative energy plan expanding its support and use of solar and wind energy.

Architecture is very unique and playful and the local government in Baku has invested heavily in interesting and fun designs that contrast in a lovely way with the historic and ancient parts of the city. We enjoyed all of that very much.

A visitor can travel to Azerbaijan very inexpensively. Enjoying a delicious meal and drinks throughout the city of Baku was only about $20 USD for two. Gas prices are about $2.60 USD per gallon. Entrance prices to museums is also inexpensive. Azerbaijanis earn about $750 USD per month, higher in the city.

The Beautiful

Despite the country’s wealth being controlled by one ruling family, investment in Baku is apparent with beautiful museums and architecture – much of it government funded. From our Airbnb we enjoyed the view of the Flaming Towers, a mixed use but nearly unoccupied set of three buildings beautiful both day and night.

Flaming Towers changed throughout the evening every night

Ancient Old City

We did a self-guided walk of the walled old city, which was conveniently about three blocks from our Airbnb.

Shirvanshah’s Palace in the Old Town was definitely one of my favorites

The Inner City (Icheri Sheher) has preserved much of its 12th-century defensive walls. The 12th-century Maiden Tower (Giz Galasy) is built over earlier structures dating from the 7th to 6th centuries BC, and the 15th-century Shirvanshahs’ Palace is one of the pearls of Azerbaijan’s architecture. (Wikipedia)

We spent one full day exploring the ancient old city and this is also where we ate some of our favorite meals (see more on that below).

Museums

Baku has a surprising number of museums. We did not visit all of them but during our weeklong visit we did visit four including the tiny book museum and the National History Museum. My two favorites however where the Carpet Museum and the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center (named after the former President).

There are a few museums and sights further out of the city, but while Arne continued his recovery from the car accident, we chose to stay close to Baku during our visit.

Named for Azerbaijan’s first President, the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center was jaw dropping. Both the architecture and the exhibits inside.

Carpet display at the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center

The architecture of the Carpet Museum is designed to look like a rolled up carpet.

In addition to historic and modern day carpet display and information, the museum had several women working on hand-tied carpets.

The National History Museum provided a chronological look at the history of the region for thousands of years.

Traditional costumes in the National History Museum

Entertainment

We really enjoyed visiting the Shirvanshah Museum restaurant (puzzlingly, not associated with or anywhere near the Shirvanshah Museum!) to watch evening dance performance with our dinner. This is a very popular and gigantic restaurant, locals love it for events and family gatherings. It’s also a bit touristy and we had better food elsewhere, but we still enjoyed it.

Traditional dance and music at Shirvanshah Museum restaurant

A stewed chicken and rice dish at Shirvanshah Museum restaurant was very good

On our final night in Baku we enjoyed a lovely dinner then proceeded to the Baku Marionette Theater for a special show by talented local marionette performers. We were so happy we decided to do that.

Talented cast at the Baku Marionette Theatre

Architecture

Because of the beautiful architecture throughout the city, we decided to do a guided night tour to enjoy this gorgeous city aglow. We booked the tour through Viator. Our guide was excellent with an expansive knowledge of the city. We enjoyed a gondola ride to the hill that gave us a birds-eye view of the sparkling and cosmopolitan metropolis. We also visited a beautiful mosque and the eternal flame and memorial to the victims who died in Black January. Also known as Black Saturday or the January Massacre, this was a violent crackdown on Azerbaijani nationalism and anti-Soviet sentiment in Baku on 19–20 January 1990, as part of a state of emergency during the dissolution of the Soviet Union

And Then the Food

Of course I can’t ever write a blog post without talking about food. Azerbaijan did not disappoint and we enjoyed amazing food and wine in Baku. And inexpensive.

The cuisine is not dissimilar to the other Caucasus countries but also had its own tastes. One of the best things we enjoyed was plov – a delicious pilaf wrapped inside pastry. Once cut table side by the waiter, a warm and fragrant lamb stew is poured on top.

Another favorite was piti. This lamb stew was mixed and served table side, and enjoyed with delicious flat bread used as your utensil to sop up all the tasty goodness. Really good.

Kefti becha I enjoyed twice because it was so good. A slow wine braised chicken that was melt in your mouth.

Yogurt soup, pickled vegetables, crispy eggplant and delicious soups and stews are abundant. Pomegranate and pumpkin also were used frequently. Many fresh breads, particularly flat bread were available for every meal as was cheese and fruit.

Crispy Eggplant we ordered several times

Tea is the drink of choice in Azerbaijan. It was common to see groups of men in the afternoon enjoying a pot of tea together with small sweet snacks and fruits.

Tea with a view – I love these Samovar Tea Makers. I want one for home.

We did an afternoon tea service too. I really wanted to enjoy an authentic tea with the ancient coal-fired samovar keeping our tea hot at the table. When enjoying this tea you are offered multiple small sweets and cookies and jam. The jam is very sweet and abundant with large pieces of fruit. Popular jams are apricot, cherry, and plum.

Here is my YouTube video talking about how much we loved the foods of Baku.

YouTube Video about Azerbaijan Cuisine

Final Thoughts

Admittedly I came to Azerbaijan not knowing a lot about this nation or the city of Baku. We had a positive visit and enjoyed the locals we met, the museums and the architecture. We enjoyed the food and the price was right. I encourage people to visit this city, and if you have the time, you should venture further out to see more of the country than we did. Despite some political issues we felt very safe, very welcome and really enjoyed everything about our visit. We definitely came away with a much greater understanding of the three countries of the Caucasus region; Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan.

Thank you for reading my post Baku, Azerbaijan. See last week’s post about Tbilisi Georgia. I hope you will come next Friday for the first of my posts about our Five Stans tour – we begin with the kinda crazy country of Turkmenistan.

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Europe Travel

Tbilisi, Georgia

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

November 15, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Tbilisi Georgia

Welcome to the second of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Tbilisi Georgia.

The country of Georgia just blew my mind for it’s history, beauty, people, wine and food! I really enjoyed my week in Tbilisi. But there is political unrest too. So for today’s blog post let me start with the recent elections; Tbilisi Georgia, The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

Looking down on the city of Tbilisi after a gondola ride up the mountain. Peace bridge on the left and Performing Arts Center in the middle.

The Bad

On October 26th, a month after our visit, elections were held and the ruling party – referred to as the Dream Party – was re-elected to Parliament. Georgia has a Prime Minister/Parliamentary strong system. Immediately protests began and countries around the world questioned the legitimacy of the election. A partial recount was done and again the Dream Party was announced as the winner. Georgians took to the street in protest of what they believe was a manipulated vote with Russian interference. It’s too early to tell how this might unfold and affect tourism in this beautiful nation. For more details it is explained in the NPR Report. This entire process sounds eerily familiar to me as an American.

I will add that during our visit we had a wonderful guide on a food tour who was unusually vocal about the upcoming election. She feared that the Dream Party would do whatever it takes to win the election and keep the country pro-Russian. She and most Georgians supported moving the country forward with more Western leaning tendencies towards Europe. Georgia is waiting to be confirmed as a member of the European Union. This election result would likely remove them as a candidate.

On My Own

If you read last week’s post about our car accident while we were visiting Yerevan Armenian, you know that my husband suffered a concussion. Arne was having some pretty serious symptoms; fatigue, dizziness, trouble swallowing and numbness on his right side. We agreed that he needed a quiet week. So, luckily our Airbnb in Tbilisi was peaceful and comfortable and he spent nearly the entire week resting. Meanwhile I gallivanted around Tbilisi on my own. Tbilisi was easy for me to maneuver and the weather was great and I got to see the sites. Poor Arne.

The Good

Hopefully starting off with “the bad” didn’t turn you off too much, because my experience during the week in Tbilisi was really great. On my own I did three tours, and at the end of the week Arne joined me for one more. This is a remarkably beautiful, historic, inexpensive and DELICIOUS country. I loved it. So let’s talk about it.

Kebabs and other meat is very popular in Tbilisi

A Little History

Georgia is a country situated at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It boasts rich history that dates back to ancient times. The region has been inhabited since the Paleolithic era, and it became a significant cultural and political center in the early medieval period. The Kingdom of Georgia emerged in the 11th century. Reaching its zenith under King David IV and Queen Tamar known for its advancements in art, architecture, and literature. However, the kingdom faced invasions from the Mongols and later the Ottomans and Persians. This lead to a decline in its power and fragmentation into smaller principalities.

Stalin, who was born in Georgia, was married in this church

In the 19th century, Georgia was annexed by the Russian Empire, which brought significant changes to its political landscape. Following the collapse of the Russian Empire in 1917, Georgia declared independence, but this was short-lived as it was invaded by the Red Army in 1921. Georgia was incorporated into the Soviet Union. Georgia regained its independence in 1991 after the dissolution of the USSR. The post-Soviet period was marked by political instability and conflicts, including the wars in Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Today, Georgia is a sovereign nation striving for democratic development, economic growth, and closer ties with Europe and NATO, while preserving its unique cultural heritage.

Where Am I

We drove across the border from Armenia to Tbilisi with a hired car and driver. This is an easy way to cross the border with some sightseeing opportunities. We had to visit the countries of the Caucasus in this order. We could not go from Armenia to Azerbaijan because of closed borders between those two countries. Armenia and Georgia currently have good diplomatic relations.

Tbilisi Walking Tours

I did a walking tour and a food walking tour on my own during the week. I booked both these group tours with Viator and both were exceptional. The city of Tbilisi has some beautiful architecture, both old and new. The country of Georgia is an officially secular nation. Religion in Georgia reached a major turning point in 326 AD. The nation is largely recognized as the second country in the world (after Armenia) to have adopted Christianity. Today 85% of Georgians are Christian and 11% practice the Muslim faith. Once numbering as many as 100,000, today the Georgian Jewish population comprises only a few thousand people. Most of the Jewish population emigrated to Israel, United States and Belgium.

Typical Georgian Architecture in the old city

The historic Kashveti Church survived the Soviet era

So Delicious

Some of the best food I’ve ever eaten was right here in Tbilisi. I know right? Considering how many places I have traveled that is saying a lot. Every restaurant we ate in was amazing. Prices are incredible low (dinner for two with drinks less than $20 USD). Restaurant staff was always so welcoming. The food tour I took was so interesting. We were treated with some hidden gems including an underground bakery, a tiny secret tea room, and wine tasting.

Tea is the favored drink in Georgia as well as a social event

My favorite foods included amazing hummus; a local specialty called Khingali – a delicious dumpling; and best of all Khachapuri – the national dish of Georgia is a delicious filled pastry that Georgians eat everyday.

Kingali Dumplings – similar to soup dumplings

Both egglant and pomegranite are popular

Kachapuri – stuffed bread – has many versions. This one with goat cheese and egg was my favorite. I need to try and make this!

Check out the YouTube video below to see my Tasty Tuesday all about Georgia Cuisine

Surprising Georgian Wine

I had no idea that Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world. The fertile valleys and protective slopes of the South Caucasus were home to grapevine cultivation and neolithic wine production for at least 8000 years. Georgians are very proud of this fact and of their local wines. On each of the three tours I did on my own, we tasted wine – that’s how important it is to this region. I really enjoyed all the wine I tasted and plan to look for Georgian wines back in the USA. Who knew?

Enjoying wine tasting on the walking tour

Wine is abundant and incredibly inexpensive

The Beautiful

Tbilisi was indeed beautiful, but the surrounding region was breathtaking. I did one day trip out of the city by myself to the UNESCO World Heritage monastery of Mtskheta and the city of Gori. This destination is less than an hour outside of Tbilisi. There were only two people on this tour and our guide/driver was really great.

Christianity

Mtskheta is one of the oldest cities in Georgia as well as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is located at the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers. Currently a small provincial capital. For nearly a millennium Mtskheta was a large fortified city. It also served as a significant economic and political center of the Kingdom of Iberia.

It is the birthplace and one of the most vibrant centers of Christianity in Georgia. Mtskheta was declared the “Holy City” by the Georgian Orthodox Church in 2014. (Wikipedia)

View of the Kura River from the hilltop ancient monastery

Stunning Mountains

By the end of our week Arne was feeling up to doing an all-day private tour to Kazbegi & Gudauri. I am so glad he felt better. It would have been tragic to miss this region near the Georgian border with Russia. Truly astonishingly beautiful. It was a very long drive though, mostly due to difficult two lane roads. There is some major infrastructure work going on. Extensive improvements will help make this trip easier in the near future.

Gergeti Trinity Church – spectacular fall day and iconic view

We were blessed with outstanding weather on our late September visit. Incredibly only a week later the area was blanketed with snow. The mountain region is a well known ski area popular with both Russians and Georgians. Additionally this beautiful backdrop shows off one of Georgia’s most stunning churches, Gergeti Trinity Church. We were able to do a couple short hikes to visit a waterfall and breath the delicious mountain air.

Final Thoughts

I can’t end this post without mentioning the historic thermal baths in Tbilisi. These are a must-do when visiting this area. The history of Tbilisi’s sulfur baths dates back to the city’s founding in the 5th century. This is when King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered the natural hot springs while hunting. The city’s name, Tbilisi, is derived from the Georgian word “tbili,” meaning warm, a clear nod to these thermal waters. Visitors have several options for visiting the thermal baths, both public or private bathing. We did a private hour long bath visit on our final day and it was really fun and relaxing.

A Wonderful Surprise

Tbilisi was a wonderful surprise, and a place I would definitely come back to if given the chance. The food and wine were delicious and inexpensive. Tours and driver hire were also inexpensive. Gas is running about $3.00 USD per gallon. The average wage in Georgia is $925 per month with a wide disparity between city and rural areas. The fall scenery and weather we enjoyed was wonderful and the people we met were welcoming and interesting.

This mural celebrating female political heroes

That is not me…but the mountains are a great place to paraglide

Georgia has issues they need to work on. I remain hopeful for this country to move forward in a positive way. We wish them all the best and thank everyone who made our visit so wonderful. I will be watching their progress in the months ahead.

Such a beautiful country. Hopeful for the people of Georgia.

Thank you for reading my post Tbilisi Georgia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Please see last week’s post Yerevan Armenia. You may also be interested in reading one of my favorite historical novels about Georgia – Hard By a Great Forest by Leo Vardiashvili. I highly recommend it.

Meanwhile come back next week for a new post in our series, next up – Azerbaijan. We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts. Thank you.

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Asia & Oceania Travel -- Europe Travel

Yerevan, Armenia

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

November 8, 2024

Laureen

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Welcome to the first of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Let’s begin with Yerevan Armenia.

Where Am I?

Yerevan, Armenia is not on everyone’s travel bucket list, but it was on mine after reading about it from another travel blogger several years ago. In fact we were scheduled for this trip when Covid shut the world down. So we were happy to finally get to the beautiful Caucasus region.

Armenia was the first of eight former Soviet states we would visit on this whirlwind trip. Over the past 8 plus years on the Grand Adventure, I have grown to really appreciate what it was like behind the Iron Curtain and why many people believe things were better for them during that time. Not all, but many people miss the security they enjoyed during the Soviet era.

A Little History

Armenia, one of the oldest countries in the world, boasts a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was home to the Urartian Kingdom in the 9th century BCE, which laid the foundation for Armenian culture and identity. The Kingdom of Armenia was officially established in 301 CE when it became the first nation to adopt Christianity as its state religion, a pivotal moment that significantly influenced its cultural and social development. Throughout the centuries, Armenia faced numerous invasions and occupations, including those by the Persians, Romans, Byzantines, and later the Seljuks and Ottomans, which shaped its political landscape and often led to the displacement of its people.

Yerevan is known for it’s delicious water and free drinking fountains around the city.

Many ancient and beautiful monasteries survived the Soviet era

Learning about the Armenian Genocide was eye-opening for me. In the early 20th century, Armenia experienced one of the most tragic events in its history: the Armenian Genocide. Perpetrated by the Ottoman Empire during World War I, an estimated 1.5 million Armenians were extinguished. Why have I never heard about this?

Be sure to check out the book review The Sandcastle Girls by Chris Bohjalian I posted last Wednesday. This novel is a must-read to learn more about the Armenian Genocide.

Following the war, Armenia briefly declared independence in 1918 but was soon incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920, where it remained until the dissolution of the USSR in 1991.

Few people are aware of the horrific genocide the Armenian people suffered at the hands of the Ottoman Empire in the early 20th Century. Armenia’s relation with Turkey remains strained.

How’s it Going?

Since gaining independence 1991, Armenia has sought to rebuild its national identity and address the historical injustices faced by its people. The country is navigating complex geopolitical challenges, particularly its relationship with neighboring Turkey and Azerbaijan. Armenia is part of the EU’s Eastern Partnership since 2009. Today, Armenia is recognized for its rich cultural heritage, including its ancient churches and monasteries, and its ongoing efforts to establish itself as a modern nation-state in the South Caucasus region. The world-wide Armenian diaspora (about 10 million) create awareness around the world about this little known and beautiful region of our planet.

As a visitor to Yerevan Armenia, we found most everything inexpensive from restaurants to tours and souvenirs. During our stay we ate delicious meals with drinks in Yerevan for less than $25 USD for two. Gas prices however, were about $5.30 gallon. The average monthly salary in Armenia is around $675 USD a month.

We even found a couple of craft breweries. Hubby happy.

The Good

Armenia is still working its way through issues from the past Soviet era, but the people we met seem happy with the direction of their country with some exceptions regarding education. In Yerevan (one of the oldest cities in the world) we had a great Airbnb with an engaged and friendly host. We did three tours; a history walking tour, a food walking tour and a cooking class and market tour. These were all private tours we booked through Viator, and we had excellent guides and experiences. All of our guides spoke great English and were enthusiastic about the future of their country.

Walking tour we learned so many things including about the more than 115 drinking fountains around the city

Jengyalov Hac is one of the best things I have ever eaten. Without our guide we would never have known about this herb stuffed sandwich.

The Bad

Similar to our visit last spring to Albania and Serbia, the traffic was awful. It’s clear that the pace of automobile acquisition in Yerevan, Armenia after independence has outmatched that of infrastructure development. Drivers are aggressive, blaring horns constantly and the din can be annoying. Most drivers seem untrained with little regard for rules of the road. Case in point – we ordered a taxi on a rainy day. The taxi arrived and it was an old car, no seat belts and past it’s prime. In hindsight we should never have gotten in this vehicle. But we did. The driver was driving way too fast, in the wrong lane and swerved to miss a car. We crashed into a concrete barrier. Unfortunately, because we were not wearing seat belts, my husband hit is head hard on the ceiling and suffered a concussion.

Accident does not look bad, but our injuries were due to the fact we were not wearing seat belts. Despite rules for such safety features, we had little recourse.

Because of the concussion and my husband needing to rest, we ended up missing our all day tour outside of the city to Khor Virap and the Tatev Monastery. Even though I did not visit these places, I still recommend them if you have the chance. These are the top sights outside of Yerevan. It was disappointing but necessary for us to not travel on the day after our taxi accident.

Khor Virap (Canva) with Mount Ararat in the distance

Genocide

The Genocide is one of the worst things that has happened to the Armenian people, and it is something few people in the world know about. The Armenian genocide was the systematic destruction of the Armenian people and identity in the Ottoman Empire during World War I. Spearheaded by the ruling Committee of Union and Progress (CUP), it was implemented primarily through the mass murder of around one million Armenians during death marches to the Syrian Desert and the forced Islamization of others, primarily women and children. Today in Yerevan, this horrific period is remembered with an excellent Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum that is a must visit for everyone visiting Armenia.

Today Armenia has no diplomatic relations with neighboring Azerbaijan. There are no open border crossings which presents a problem for visitors navigating the Caucasus region. This is due to the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict – an ethnic and territorial dispute between Armenia and Azerbaijan. This is an ongoing issue, very volatile, with no negotiations in sight.

The Beautiful

Yerevan, Armenia has many beautiful sites. We enjoyed our time inside the city. Our favorite places included the giant statue of Mother Armenia, the view of Mount Ararat (Armenians believe it to be where Noah’s Ark is), the Yerevan Cascade Climb, Matenadaran Manuscript Library, Republic Square and the amazing Genocide Memorial and Museum. We spent several hours exploring the National Gallery of Armenia and the GUM Market (has nothing to do with chewing gum) and we recommend both.

The beautiful and kind people stood out. They were interested in us and welcoming. Like many of the countries we visit, we did not meet any other Americans. Most of the visitors are from Europe.

Mount Ararat on a cloudy day. Most of the mountain currently lies in Turkey and is one of Armenia’s border conflicts with that nation

A shout out to the local Emergency Room too. Our wonderful Airbnb host personally escorted us to the emergency room on a Sunday, stayed with us the entire time and translated for us. We would have been lost without him. Our ER visit with CatScan and prescriptions was $128.

We were lucky to have our Airbnb host help us at the hospital

Armenians are proud of their unique language and alphabet. The Armenian alphabet, created in 405 AD by the linguist and theologian Mesrop Mashtots, is a unique script that reflects the rich cultural and historical heritage of the Armenian people.

An outdoor exhibit explains the unique and ancient Armenian alphabet

Food Glorious Food

Our food tour and cooking class both provided us an eye-opening education to the cuisine of Armenia. We had amazing Khorovats – like a shishkebab grilled meat; dolma, vine leaf wrapped meat; ghapama (my favorite), a spectacular stuffed pumpkin or squash; gata – a sweet bread; pickles of every persuasion; jengyalov hac – an incredible herb filled flat bread wrap; and the famous lavash flat bread served at every meal.

Here below is a link to our YouTube video about Armenian Food. Delicious.

Watch this video to learn more about the surprising cuisines of Armenia

Yerevan, Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

Yerevan, Armenia was a perfect place to spend a week. Plenty of time to see many historical sites, museums and parks and to eat the great food. We really enjoyed the people, the architecture and the culture. We enjoyed learning about the Armenian Apostolic Church (97% of Armenians are Christian) founded 301 AD. Christianity is the official state religion.

This tiny country packs a powerful punch. Yerevan is small and easy to maneuver. It is an up and coming destination you should have on your radar. I highly recommend it. Yerevan Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

We love it when you pin and share and comment about our posts. Be sure and come back next Friday for our post about Tbilisi Georgia.

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