For the last few days I’ve been trying to process my feelings about completing the Camino de Santiago Adventure. It’s a big task. Not sure I can do it in just a few days. In fact not sure I can do it at all.
Our Camino journey is just one incredible adventure on our Grand Adventure world tour. We are so lucky to be leading this life and sometimes, like now, it’s good to stop and really absorb our own reality.
(Note – many people are asking where we go next. Check the end of this blog for upcoming adventure details)
What have we learned? I think we learned some valuable things, but we also reconfirmed things we already knew. For instance –
We learned how amazing the human body is. Even in our Fabulous Fifties our bodies did not fail us. It was about day 12 when one morning I got up to get ready to go and my body acknowledged it. I think that morning my body said “Oh – I get it. You intend to do this long walk EVERY day. Okay now I understand. I can do that. Let’s go.”
We reconfirmed our mental need to have a day off or a do nothing day from time to time. These days I believe make living a full-time travel life possible. Otherwise the mental fatigue of the Grand Adventure really takes a toll. After awhile in this travel life you don’t feel the need to see and do every monument and tourism hotspot. Just enjoying putting your feet up and relaxing becomes a cherished and fabulous day.
(Note – did you know you can click on any photo in our blogs and Pin directly to Pinterest? Give it a try!)
We learned what an amazing and wide range of people it is who tackle a Camino walk. We met some fascinating people from all over the world, many who will live in our memories forever. I can’t think of any other experience we have ever had where it included so many people from so many cultures speaking so many languages but all sharing the same goal. That was a wonderful and inspiring lesson- one our world leaders should learn. We are all in this together.
And yet we reconfirmed how much we enjoy each other’s company and most of our time was spent just us on the trail doing what we do best – being together. After almost 35 years of marriage we got that down.
While news of natural disasters unfolded in our online news services we were blessed with great weather, spectacular scenery, countless sunrises and sunsets and vast and varietal geography reminding us what a remarkable planet this is and how we need to nourish and care for it. And we need to do it now.
While I spent time taking and editing photos or writing and editing blogs – Arne spent time tracking and calculating data. And boy did he collect a lot of data to share;
41 days
489 mile
1,355,229 steps
224 walking hours (37 walking days and four rest days)
2 days of rain 39 dry days
55 Euro per day lodging and 45 euro per day food
47,400 Feet elevation gain overall
Longest day 19.5 miles. Shortest day 5 miles. Average miles per day 13.2. Average elevation per day 1280 Feet.
Cheapest lodging g $24 Euro. Most expensive $100 euro.
Not everyone can or wants to do a walking adventure like the Camino. But if you have considered it I have this piece of advice – do it sooner rather than later. Do it your way and don’t let others tell you what’s best. But most of all – do it. Don’t spend your life thinking about it and regret later that you didn’t get to it.
We will continue to process within ourselves this experience and what this milestone means. But in the meantime, our Grand Adventure goes on. We have planes to catch and new adventures ahead.
We fly to Barcelona for a week before saying goodbye to Europe as our Schengen days have run out. We have been in Spain almost two months- the longest we have spent in any country since leaving the USA.
(Note – other than Reading Wednesday I’m going to take a week off from blogging while in Barcelona. Watch for a blog from Tunisia next)
So where to next? Here is the plan;
One week in Tunisia to visit our friend Leslie and then a month in Morocco where we will be joined by our friends Steve and Sarah. Morocco has long been on my list and I can’t wait!
On our 35th wedding Anniversary on November 27th we arrive for a 12 day Adventure tour in Namibia before heading to South Africa for Christmas.
On New Years Eve we fly to Sri Lanka for three weeks, then a quick five days in India and a week in Bangladesh visiting our friend Natalie before flying to the Maldives for almost a month. We plan to relax and do nothing here.
Next it’s a week in Guam (by way of Singapore) visiting our niece Bekah and her husband Davy. Then three weeks in Australia and then three weeks in Bali and Lombok where we will be joined by our friends John and Carole.
This brings us to the end of April at which time we plan to take a 26 day re-positioning cruise back to the USA for a two-month visit before heading off again. We look forward to seeing friends and family then.
So there you have it. Lots of great adventures and blogs on the horizon! As usual, thank you for your continued interest and support. We are humbled and blessed and grateful each and everyday.
I’m finally doing a river cruise. Am I the last person on earth to try it? I know TONS of people absolutely love this form of travel, but it has not yet made it into our top choices. We have done several ocean cruises over the past four decades, but over the last nine years we have stuck pretty much to independent travel, with a tour thrown in here and there.
Viking River Cruises Modi. This is our ship.
And yet, I am intrigued by how many of my personal friends think river cruising is amazing. And so, why not? We booked a cruise from Basel Switzerland to Nuremburg Germany with Viking River Cruises. Our itinerary hits all the gorgeous European Christmas Markets along the way. I’ve wanted to do a winter Christmas Market visit for awhile, so lets go! Let’s talk about a Winter Wardrobe for European Christmas Market Cruise.
I’ve been dreaming about this for a few years! (Canva)
Packing for a Winter River Cruise
Over the past couple of years we have found ourselves in more winter destinations than when we first started traveling. But this is the first time I have packed exclusively for a winter destination. Although cruising is not the big fashion show with sequins and tuxedos that it used to be, there still is an element of casual elegance with warmth and comfort. I tried to figure out how to do carry-on bags only on this trip, due specifically to the issues with air travel right now. But, we have determined to check one bag and bring two carry ons, distributing our essentials amongst the three just in case. And I also expect to bring some fun gifts and souvenirs home! Here is what I have put together for 16 days of travel;
The Basics
I feel pretty good about this capsule wardrobe and its mix and match possibilities. I am bringing black pants, a black skirt, navy pants and my olive green corduroy pants. All of these are comfortable and easy to mix and match with multiple sweaters and tops. I have three blouses, five sweaters (red, burgundy, green, grey, black) and two long sleeve print t-shirts. I might remove one sweater…still thinking on it. Exactly how many sweaters does a girl need for a Winter Wardrobe for European Christmas Market Cruise?
Black Pants and my new long sleeve print t-shirt and green sweater
Black Skirt, Button down and grey cardigan
Black pants, black turtleneck and my trusty denim shirt
New sweater from Nordstrom will go with all of my bottoms
Black leopard print top works with both pants and skirt
I love these new olive corduroys I just got from Nordstrom. My choice over jeans
Emerald Green is a good color for me and works with black and navy
Corduroy’s with the Talbots t-shirt and grey cardigan
Shoes and Boots
We won’t be doing any hiking or running on this trip, but we will be doing a lot of walking. I have two pairs of sturdy, comfortable, winter walking shoes as well as one pair of black booties. No dressy heels made the cut. But my slippers did.
When we were in Italy I couple winters ago I bought these black loafers at a leather shop and they are hands down the best shoes I have ever worn.
New and comfy loafers from Vionic
Waterproof black booties are Blondo from Nordstrom and such a great winter walking boot
Keeping Warm
I am bringing my puffy jacket which is black and goes with everything. I am also bringing my Hele Hanson navy blue raincoat. The puffy coat fits under the rain coat if needed. One pair of gloves and three hats. Also an umbrella. We are expecting temperatures in the mid-30’s to the high 40’s fahrenheit.
I am bringing my comfy pajamas which I just purchased from the Vermont Country Store as well as my slippers. Gotta stay cozy.
My down puffy jacket is from Lands End
One of the best purchases I ever made was this Navy Helle Hanson raincoat
Accesories
Scarfs are your friend. I wear scarfs more than I wear necklaces at home and when traveling. Scarfs are light weight and diverse. I have two large multicolor cotton scarfs and one warm fuzzy scarf for outdoors. I will pack just a couple of pairs of versatile earrings. Nothing of value.
Brand new Navy trousers from Talbots are so comfortable. Paired with this older red poncho I love
The Navy pants and this green sweater are so versatile
And the work horse of any good wardrobe, a denim shirt.
Underneath it All
Of course I have undies and bras, and I have been pretty particular about choosing socks that for me have been great for walking. I have one pair of tights and just for good measure I’m throwing in my silk long underwear. We hope to not need laundry service, and all my underthings are made for fast dry so I can do hand laundry when on the go.
Onboard I wear comfy but warm with layers. This is my airplane outfit.
Winter Wardrobe European Christmas Market Cruise
Keeping it basic with basic colors that mix and match, sturdy, comfy yet stylish shoes and functional outerwear. That’s my plan for for my first river cruise and my long awaited European Christmas Market fun!
I won’t be posting a blog about the cruise until we get home, but I hope you will follow along on Instagram and Facebook where I will post everyday starting tomorrow!
See last week’s blog post Time to Plan New England in the Fall, the final post of our October road trip. Thanks as always for following our world travels. Please share, comment and pin this post.
Location: Mount Rainier National Park Washington State USA
Growing up in the Pacific Northwest I had no idea what a little paradise I lived in. As kids we never do. Only as an adult and after traveling all over the world did I truly grow to love Washington State and the Pacific Northwest. Today is the final post in my summer series. I hope you enjoy Hidden Gems of the PNW – Ashford to Paradise.
Myrtle Falls, Paradise Mount Rainier National Park
Ashford – Gateway to Mount Rainier National Park
We had avoided hiking in Mount Rainier for most of the summer, due to how busy it can be. But as fall came a knocking we started visiting The Mountain again. We hiked on the Sunrise side of Mount Rainier National Park two weeks in a row. Then, we decided to spend three days in Ashford with easy access to the Paradise side of Mount Rainier. I am so glad we did, a perfect hidden gem.
Whitaker’s Bunkhouse is one overnight option, and also a great place to have ice cream
History of Ashford
Ashford, Washington, was founded by Walter and Cora Ashford, who homesteaded there in the 1880s and platted the town in 1904. Named after the couple, Ashford became a railroad terminus for the Tacoma Eastern Railway, facilitating logging, mining, and importantly, tourism to the newly established Mount Rainier National Park. The impressive Ashford Mansion, built in 1903, served as a rural hotel and is a testament to the family’s success and the town’s connection to the park’s gateway.
Ashford General Store is small
Today there is not a lot to see and do in Ashford, except it is the perfect place to stay if you want easy access to the park. Ashford has a couple restaurants, a gas station and convenience store as well as a teeny market that does not offer much. But we came to stay at the Ashford Lodge.
Ashford Lodge
When I saw the vintage trailers that are part of the Ashford Lodge on Airbnb, I knew this was the perfect place for us. The Ashford Lodge has cabins as well as four vintage trailers set out in a field. Each trailer is authentically restored and includes a separate building next door for toilet and shower. We stayed in the Layla trailer, a vintage Shasta from the 1950’s. Layla is the largest lot of the four, and includes the biggest cherry tree I have ever seen, with a comfy hammock to enjoy.
The same trailer we had when I was a little kid. Somehow we slept six people in it in the 1960’s
We came prepared with enough food for our two nights and three days, and found the cooking set up reliable and the bed comfortable. We would certainly consider staying here again.
Beautiful restoration of the Shasta
Clean and functional toilet and shower
Peaceful
Paradise Lakes Trail
Mount Rainier National Park’s busiest area is definitely Paradise, home to the historic Paradise Inn and the very nice Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center (opened in 2008).No matter when you visit in the summer it will be busy though, and parking can be a challenge despite hundreds of parking spots. IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER Dogs are NOT allowed in the park, nor should you leave your pet in your car. Be smart and leave your animal at home.
We arrived about 9:30am on a gorgeous hot day, the day after Labor Day. The weather was hands down the hottest weather I have ever encountered at Mount Rainier, well over 80 degrees Fahrenheit at 7000 feet. The mountain too seemed to have the least amount of snow on it I can remember in my lifetime.
The Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center, Paradise
Lakes Trail on a glorious September day
Lakes Loop Trail
We found parking pretty easily and headed out to do a hike called the Lakes Loop Trail that we had never done before. Our first stop was Myrtle Falls. Getting to the park early meant we were able to take some beautiful photos of Myrtle Falls before the crowds descended. Often this destination, only 0.5 miles from the parking lot, is crawling with visitors.
At Myrtle Falls before the crowds arrived
After Myrtle Falls we continued on the Lakes Loop Trail. It was hot. We walked and climbed and enjoyed the spectacular views. We ran out of water though, even though we were carrying a lot. We returned to our car where a welcome seltzer awaited in the cooler. Such a great day.
We had the Lakes Loop Trail all to ourselves
Back to Ashford Lodge and our cute little Layla where we enjoyed dinner I had brought from home and relaxed with a glass of wine.
This isn’t roughing it
Paradise Skyline Loop
The weather was going to be hot again, so we got up early and entered the park at 6:50am. We were on the trail by 7:20am. The Skyline Loop Trail is the most popular trail for visitors to Mount Rainier. We had done this hike once before and loved it. On this day we encountered few visitors in the morning, but by afternoon it was busy again.
Beginning the climb on Skyline Loop as the sun comes up
Wildfires in the region cause the sun to have an eerie glow
The Skyline Loop trail is not for everyone. It takes anywhere from 4-5 hours depending on your ability and speed. It’s just over five miles total but includes some uneven rocky surfaces and loose shale crossing as well as an over all elevation gain of 1800 feet. But the views are what everyone comes for. On this day however, the Pacific Northwest was experiencing heavy smoke from several forest fires burning in the region. Forest fires in Washington State are not uncommon in late summer, although this problem has gotten much worse with climate change.
At the top of Skyline Loop. You can see the hazy smoke in the valley below.
Despite the smoke, such a beautiful day
Some of Skyline Loop is very rocky and loose
Wildlife in Mount Rainier National Park
In addition to the spectacular views, spotting wildlife and birds is a favorite part of visiting this spectacular park. While hiking the Skyline Loop Trail we were thrilled to see several mountain goats (caution these animals are dangerous and people have been killed), dozens of marmots, pika, chipmunks and a new to us bird, the white tailed ptarmigan.
Four mountain goats napping just off the trail
Marmots are common and not dangerous
Ashford and Elbe
There are a few other things you can do in Ashford as well as in neighboring Elbe. We visited the Ashford Creek Gallery, filled with art, pottery and historic images and books. We also really enjoyed visiting the Ashford Spirits of Iron Sculpture Park – home to a fantastic outdoor collection of art made from scrap metal. Very entertaining. Alder Lake is very close, although at the end of a long hot summer there was very little water in this reservoir lake. The water level changes seasonally.
Ashford Creek Pottery
Spirit of Iron Sculpture Park
We also made a brief visit to Elbe. Elbe grew as a logging town until the Alder Lake dam project in the 1940s flooded the valley. Today, Elbe is a small community known for its historic Elbe Evangelical Lutheran Church built in 1906, the Elbe Market Country Store, and its location on the route to Mount Rainier National Park, attracting tourists with its historic railroad depot, home to the Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad. We wanted to have breakfast in Elbe at the Mount Rainier Railroad Dining Company to eat in a railroad car. Alas they don’t open until 11am. If you want to visit be sure to check hours on their website.
Elbe’s Evangelico Lutheran Church
Elbe General Store and the Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad
Hidden Gems of the PNW – Ashford to Paradise
There are other hikes and activities in the region and I definitely think we will come back again, stay in cute little Layla and explore even more of Ashford to Paradise. I highly recommend you do too.
It’s been a great summer. More fun travel on the way! Thanks for your continued interest and support. We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts.
When I was a child in the 1960’s I spent a lot of time on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. We hiked and camped throughout the peninsula and in the mountains and at the ocean too. My great-grandparents lived in Port Angeles, the official gateway to the Olympic National Park, and I have fond memories of their farm, about 15 minutes out of what then was a small city. At the time that farm seemed so big to me. I’ve driven by there a few times in recent years…it is small. So I have a history and thought it was time to go discovery the Hidden Gems of the PNW – Port Angeles & Olympic National Park
My sweet grandparents John and Clara
The old farm today
Glorious summer day in Port Angeles Washington along the Strait of Juan de Fuca
In the past few decades I have spent very little time in Port Angeles. We would ride our bikes on the Olympic Discovery Trail, (it too a hidden gem) but never actually stop in Port Angeles. So this summer, I had a great opportunity to spend a couple days getting reacquainted with “PA” while also enjoying time in the beautiful Olympic National Park. Here is my story.
Riding the Olympic Discovery Trail a few years ago just outside of Port Angeles
History of Port Angeles
Port Angeles, Washington, has a history rooted in its natural harbor and strategic location. The area was originally home to the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe. In 1791, Spanish explorer Francisco de Eliza named the harbor Puerto de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, later shortened to Port Angeles. The town later became a gateway to the Olympic National Park.
In 1862, President Abraham Lincoln designated land in Port Angeles as a potential location for the nation’s capital if Washington D.C. were to fall to the Confederacy.
The beautiful harbor at Port Angeles
Port Angeles Harbor is recognized as one of the largest natural deepwater harbors on the West Coast, with depths exceeding 90 feet, according to the USGS. The town is also known for Ediz Hook, a prominent 3-mile-long sand spit that extends into the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Port Angeles has served as a backdrop for several films, including “The Hunt for Red October” and “Wyatt Earp”.
History of the Olympic National Park
Olympic National Park, established in 1938, has a rich history rooted in the protection of its diverse ecosystems. Initially, the area was designated as the Olympic Forest Reserve in 1897 to protect the trees. Later, parts of the reserve were designated as Mount Olympus National Monument in 1909 to preserve the Roosevelt elk. Finally, in 1938, President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed a bill creating Olympic National Park.
The park’s history also includes the indigenous peoples who have lived on the Olympic Peninsula for thousands of years, as well as the arrival of European explorers and settlers. The park now protects a wide range of ecosystems, including temperate rainforests, alpine meadows, and rugged peaks, as well as a section of the Pacific coast.
But most visitors pass right through Port Angeles and continue on the loop through the Olympic Peninsula. That is a nice way to see all the sights, but you should also consider making PA your home base to explore the Hidden Gems of the PNW – Port Angeles & Olympic National Park.
Where to Stay
Of course Port Angeles has hotels, but I wanted something a little more down to earth, in keeping with my hiking itinerary. I was flying solo on this trip, so I chose to “glamp” in a teeny cabin about 15-20 minutes outside of the town. Best way to describe this cabin is camping with a bed. It was perfect.
My teeny and comfy cabin
Home Sweet Home
Room with a View
Tiny cabin with comfy bed, great linens, even a TV though I never turned it on. Roughing it with the cooking and cleaning, a Blackstone was provided and dishes, but bring your own cooler. Sparkling clean sani-can and a wash-up area complete with mirror and beauty products. I enjoyed the gas fire pit too and all of this in a stunning setting surrounded by towering mountains and lots of deer. Interested in this little hidden gem? Learn about it here.
Port Angeles Hidden Gems
Though small, Port Angeles has a remarkable downtown area with fun and unique shops. I asked around for some ideas from friends of mine, and they steered me to lots of great retail stores –
Swains
This store blew my mind. I can’t believe I have never stopped in here before. It’s no exaggeration to say, whatever you might be looking for, Swains has it. I could have spent hours here, and will definitely make sure my husband visits this store on our next trip to Port Angeles.
Swains General Store a Port Angeles institution
Whatever you need it’s here
Recreation to Garden to Housewares and even clothing and shoes
McPhee’s Grocery
As you begin the ascent out of Port Angeles towards the National Park, you will pass the tiny McPhee’s Parkway Grocery. In operation since 1937, McPhee’s is your last opportunity to pick up some snacks, fruit, beer or maybe an ice cream before you head out of PA.
Tiny but great service and product at McPhee’s
Port Book and News
Nothing makes my heart go pitter pat like a really good old fashioned book store with REAL books. I admit I read on my Kindle, because I can’t carry books around the world. But I love the feel of a book in my hands. Even the smell of the darling Port Book and News is nostalgic. Of course I bought a novel I have been wanting to read. You’ll see a book review about it soon.
Right on First Street you will find Port Book and News
Employee recommendations
Something for everyone
Country Aire Natural Foods Market
Port Angeles’ version of a Whole Foods but so much better because it is all local. Country Aire Natural Foods Market has a great little deli, espresso and wine shop as well as beautiful produce and dry goods. Right in the heart of downtown Port Angeles with parking in the back.
Don’t miss Country Aire
Beautiful fresh produce
Great selection of wine
Brocante Antiques and Collectibles
I think I get it from my Dad, who was the ultimate flea market and vintage store junkie. Proud to say I am as well. I was just strolling down First Street when I noticed Brocante. Wow. Another store you could spend all day in, looking for hidden gems amongst the various booths. I did not buy anything, but boy I came close to coming home with an antique cooler…regretting that a bit.
Brocante is a large store full of hidden gems in the heart of Port Angeles
Treasures galore
I was so tempted…
Moss
I loved this store, and it was full of visitors. Moss is the place to find a perfect authentic and high quality souvenir or gift. Moss has beautiful things from cards to cardigans, hats to candles to camping gear. A little bit of everything in this high quality and beautifully displayed store.
Lots of cool stuff
Perfect souvenir for your time in PA
Something for everyone
Field Arts and Events Hall
Be sure also to visit the Field Arts and Events Hall, right on the water next to the Black Ball Ferry Terminal. This gorgeous building opened two years ago and has brought diverse artists and performances to Port Angeles. An incredible undertaking for a small town and an impressive and beautiful addition to this community.
Field Arts & Events Hall
Field Arts & Events Hall is a private 501(c) 3 nonprofit organization. The construction of Field Hall was made possible through the generous donations of Port Angeles locals Donna M. Morris and Dorothy Field, along with corporate and individual donors who value a vibrant arts community on the northern Olympic Peninsula.
This facility is really changing arts and culture on the peninsula. Check out the events schedule and definitely visit the building.
Let’s Go Hiking
Entrance fees to Olympic National Park are $30 per vehicle. If you are over age 62, you definitely should have the America Golden Eagle pass, $80 one time fee gives you national park entrance for the rest of your life.
View from Storm King
Entering the park can be tricky in the summer when it’s busy. Go as early as possible, because once the parking lots are full, they usually will only let one car in as one car leaves. The early bird gets the worm. I’m always an early bird so it worked out great. Below is a list of the ONP places I visited –
Hurricane Ridge
When I was a little kid we would come here to go sledding, and this was also the first place I ever strapped on a pair of hand-me-down skis when I was only five. Today Hurricane is a destination for hikers from all over the world, and home to a lot of wildlife too. Unfortunately the historic WPA era lodge burned down a couple years ago, but there is a large parking lot and restrooms. Obstruction Point is also a jumping-off point for miles and miles of overnight hiking trails.
Looking across at Mount Olympus for Obstruction Point, Hurricane Ridge
Obstruction Point hike
Summer blooms on Hurricane Ridge
The Hoh Rainforest
I really wanted to visit here, because I can’t remember when the last time was. Today, visitors from all over the world make the Hoh Rainforest a destination for the beautiful Hall of Mosses and Spruce Trail and much more. Parking is limited. I found one of the last spots. Once parking is full the Ranger will hold the cars, only letting one in as one leaves.
Spruce Trail in the Hoh Rainforest
All about the moss in the Hall of Mosses Trail
Green is the color of the day
Sol Duc
There are several trails here but I only did the short, and accessible for most people, trail to Sol Duc Falls. Parking is also very limited here too. Many people park along the road. I was there on a Thursday in August and it was crowded. No services at this trailhead, but you will love this easy nature walk and beautiful falls.
Sol Duc Falls
Elwha River Trail
Not inside the park but in the National Forest, this trail meanders along the Elwha River, on a trail about 20 minutes from Port Angeles. The road into this trail washed out a few years ago. It used to continue up to the Olympic Hot Springs. Today you can drive to the washout and hike for miles along the old road. Today the hike is mostly on the old road but also on trails, with beautiful scenic options along the way. Hot Springs is a 20 mile round trip.
Back when cars could come here, there were services including gas
The Elwha River
Lake Crescent
There are three trails I love near Lake Crescent, offering hikers of all levels options –
Spruce Railroad
The Spruce Railroad Trail is super easy, mostly paved or flat gravel old railroad bed with lake access and beautiful views. Full distance roundtrip is about 9 miles, but easy to turn around anywhere.
Visitors enjoy the access and view to Lake Crescent
Marymere Falls
An easy walk from Lake Crescent Lodge to this beautiful falls, about two miles round trip. Involves some stairs but accessible to most abilities.
Marymere Falls
Mount Storm King
I love this one though it isn’t for everyone. Mount Storm King trail is short but steep and narrow and it ends with a rope option for the brave. I usually park it on the rock near the rope and just enjoy the view from there.
View from Storm King
Granny’s Cafe
Driving out 101 to the park entrances be sure to make a stop at Granny’s Cafe for their not-to-miss $3 giant soft serve ice cream cone. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, but the ice cream is what most people come back for again and again. Granny’s has been serving ONP visitors and the greater Port Angeles area since the 1950’s. It is the epitome of a Hidden Gems of the PNW – Port Angeles & Olympic National Park.
Giant ice cream for only $3 at Granny’s Cafe
Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Port Angeles & Olympic National Park
Olympic National Park encompasses 922,651 acres, or approximately 1,442 square miles. This vast area includes diverse ecosystems like glacier-capped mountains, a rugged Pacific coastline, and temperate rainforests. It’s the 13th largest national park in the United States. So you can’t possibly see it in one visit. If you can, try to come several times, in different seasons to enjoy the hidden treasures it holds. And spend at least one of your visits in the Washington Hidden Gem of Port Angeles. You will be glad you did.
“To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive.” – Robert Louis Stevenson.
The question I get most often from people about our travels is “what’s your favorite country?” Honestly, I don’t love that question, because after visiting 147 countries, there are really only a handful I wouldn’t return to. Certainly, there are ones I like more than others…but choosing a favorite? Impossible. When I look back at all my travels, I find I am most fond of the countries that were unexpected for beauty, kindness, cost, culture, food and people. Some of our favorite experiences have been in lesser traveled destinations, where we met few other people like us. And today with over-tourism in places like France and Spain – finding the hidden gems is our goal and pleasure. So instead of telling you what my favorite country is, let me encourage you to travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries, full of adventure with fewer crowds.
EUROPE
I have visited almost all the European countries in Western, Eastern and Central Europe. There are still a few on my list. And though I of course have enjoyed time in the most popular countries like France, Spain and Italy, these are not on today’s list. You probably have also visited places like France, Spain and Italy, but have you considered travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries?
Poland
Poland
Why go to Poland?
Poland has everything the other European countries have, but it is so underrated as a destination. We spent three week traveling around Poland (by train) and loved it. The history, particularly WWII, is astonishing. The food (pierogies for the win!) is outstanding and the cities are gorgeous. Poland was home to Frederic Chopin, Marie Curie, Roman Polanski, Helena Rubenstein and many more. Poland has a rich arts and music culture, beautiful public squares, many performance facilities, and delicious food. Not all Poles speak English, but that adds to the charm of the place, and we absolutely loved all the wonderful locals we met.
Don’t Miss
Krakow for the beautiful square, musical performances, and a tour to Auschwitz. Don’t miss the small towns of Poznan and Wroclaw. Be sure to visit Warsaw to learn about the Jewish Ghetto and to see the public art. See posts I wrote about the amazing food of Poland here.
Bulgaria
Bulgaria
Why go to Bulgaria?
We spent the month of June in Bulgaria early in the Grand Adventure travels. We chose Bulgaria because it is not in the Schengen so it did not count against our 90 Schengen days for other Europe countries. But we were so unexpectedly enamored of the food, the fabulous history and beaches. And it remains one of the least expensive countries we have ever visited.
Bulgaria has surprising Roman ruins that you can visit without any other tourists around. We met some of the most amazing people, who were so genuinely grateful that we chose their country. Even those we met who spoke no English were so happy to meet us, and hugging was not uncommon. Bulgaria, like many Eastern European countries has had many conflicts and political changes over the millennia. But the people take it in stride and are proud and patriotic. Bulgaria is popular with Russian tourists and we met only one other American couple during our 30 day visit.
Don’t Miss
Sofia the capital has incredible history right under foot. Veliko Tarnova was our favorite, a fabulous mountain town built hanging above a river. Great hiking there. And Sozopol on the Black Sea was gorgeous and the beach here was incredible.
Malta
Malta
Why Go to Malta?
Becoming more popular, but still under the radar, this island nation was such a big surprise. If you go consider spring or fall, not during the summer when it does get crowded. We stayed in the city of Valletta, which reminded me of Dubrovnik. It is a magical place. We rented a car a couple of days to get outside of Valletta and visit Peter’s Pool, Blue Grotto, Mdina & Rabat. We took a day trip to the tiny island of Gozo, which would be worth a longer stay if you had the time. Everyone speaks English, but Malta has its own language as well called Maltese. I would love to go back to this relaxing, beautiful and unique place.
Don’t Miss
Valletta is beautiful, has cheap and delicious food and wine. Read all about our wonderful visit here Marvelous Malta.
Georgia
Georgia
Why Go to Georgia?
Last fall we visited the Eastern European countries of Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan over a three week period. We loved them all but Georgia really settled into a place in my heart. We spent the majority of our time in the capital city of Tbilisi, with some incredible daytrips outside of town to see the mountainous beauty of this country. Everyone spoke English and the people were kind and welcoming. Georgia struggled after the fall of the USSR but has come back strong. Yet like many countries around the world, mine included, an authoritarian leader has emerged, and the people are once again fighting for their rights. I loved the resilience of these people and the patriotism.
Don’t Miss
The food. Unexpected and incredible, the unique cuisine of Georgia is one of the best in the world. I took a food tour and a wine tasting tour (their wine is incredible) and loved every mouthful. Be sure to visit the thermal baths in the city of Tbilisi and make the trek to Kazbegi and Gudauri – stunningly beautiful. Read more about why I love Georgia here.
Cyprus
Cyprus
Why Go to Cyprus?
Cyprus will forever be in my heart because of the many kindnesses afforded us when we were locked down on this island nation in the early days of the world-wide pandemic. We were very lucky to find ourselves stuck here, despite not being able to move around the island. Luckily we made friends and felt safe and had everything we needed. We loved the people so much, two years later we returned for a ten day visit without restrictions. Read about it here.
Don’t Miss
Incredible UNESCO heritage sites throughout the island. Beaches that rival anywhere. Take a tour and cooking class with Cyprus Taste Tours. Eat all the food that is much like Greek, but also very much it’s own. If you are so inclined, you can walk across the UN Protected Border to Northern Cyprus for lunch and then walk back.
CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICA
There are handful of countries, mostly island nations, I still have not visited in Central and South America. But I have spent a lot of time in the most popular destinations like Costa Rica, Belize, Brazil and Argentina. But the ones I had my favorite experiences in were;
Honduras (Roatan)
Roatan Honduras
Why Go to Roatan?
The island of Roatan, just off mainland Honduras, is not plagued with some of the crime and issues found on the mainland. And direct flights to the island from Miami are easy, skipping going through the mainland. We spent an entire month in the tiny town of West End, and loved the relaxed Caribbean vibe. Though the beaches in the town were not great, there are many beaches on the island that are remarkable. If you don’t have a car, it can be difficult to get groceries, but we found a driver who was helpful to us when we wanted to tour or to go to the super market. It’s a very laid back experience and worth a visit.
Don’t Miss
Do an island tour with a guide to hit the main spots around the small island including the most beautiful beaches, hidden restaurants and the local microbrewery. Other fun spots including Daniel Johnson’s Sloth Sanctuary and the Roatan Botanical Gardens. Read about our Favorite Things in Roatan here.
Guatemala
Guatemala
Why Go to Guatemala?
We enjoyed a self-guided three week tour of Guatemala, arriving by a small open air boat from Belize. Our visit included Lake Flora and Tikal Mayan Ruins. We adored Antigua and were witness to the spectacle of Semana Santa over Easter. And we left our heart in Lake Atitlan…one of the most beautiful and peaceful places I have ever been. The people are quiet and kind. Curious and welcoming. Few people speak English except in the cities, but we had no problems.
Don’t Miss
Gorgeous and historic Antigua is incredible. Do a walking tour, history tour and take a Cooking Class. Lake Flora and Tikal are incredible for the beauty and history. And sit back and relax for a few days at hidden Lake Atitlan. Read more what I loved about Guatemala here.
Bolivia
Bolivia
Why Go to Bolivia?
Long on my bucket list, Bolivia did not disappoint. A remarkable place. Difficult to get around as an independent traveler (but not impossible), we chose to do a group tour while in Bolivia. We have no regrets about that choice – Intrepid Travel and our guide made the experience unforgettable. I recommend it highly. Bolivia has its issues (like everywhere) but it is fast becoming a popular tourist destination. I recommend you go soon.
Don’t Miss
La Paz was astonishing and seeing the way of life at 12,000 feet is worth the trip. Hands down the best thing in this country is the Uyuni Salt Flats. Stunningly beautiful and indescribable . Reaching the highest altitude I have ever been at was worth it for the views, even though I was sick for a couple of days. Read more about our ten day tour and all we did here. Go to Bolivia!
AFRICA
The continent of Africa is huge, and incredibly diverse. Each of the 54 nations that make up Africa have their own cultures, foods, geology, history, language and people. No two are alike, and it’s one of the reasons we have enjoyed visiting this continent on several occasions. I encourage you to travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries –
Namibia
Namibia
Why Go to Namibia
When we get the question “What is our favorite country?”, we often list off a dozen or so, and Namibia is always on that list. We had one of our most favorite travel experiences in Namibia. We hired a guide from Wild Wind Safaris to take us for ten days around this remarkably diverse country, and we loved every minute of it. From ocean to mountain to the best safari of our three, Namibia has it all. Learn about our Safari here. Learn about the rest of Namibia here.
Don’t Miss
Everything about Namibia was incredible. If you don’t have ten days though, do a shorter tour and don’t miss Etosha National Park (mind blown) and the astonishing Sossusvlei Dunes. Otherworldly.
Madagascar
Madagascar
Why Go to Madagascar?
Oh My Gosh – it is awesome. The people in Madagascar are generally very poor, but they are also the hardest working people I have ever met. Other than in the very large and crowded capital city of Antananarivo, we felt so safe and welcome. The reason to visit Madagascar is for the incredible nature and wildlife – particularly the lemurs, found nowhere else in the world. We did a private tour (there are so many tour companies to choose from) and really felt we saw a lot of the country in ten days. However, there is much we didn’t see, and I would love to go back. Read here about why I am Mad about Madagascar.
Don’t Miss
Most tours will take you on generally the same route. You definitely want to see Avenue of the Baobabs (also called Baobab Alley), and lemurs, lemurs, lemurs! I had no idea there were so many different kinds. I also LOVED all the chameleons, and others: lizards, insects, butterflies and birds. Be sure and have your guide take you on a night walk – fascinating!
ASIA
Central, East and SE Asia all have a wide variety of culture and people, and the food is also incredible everywhere you go. I loved Vietnam and Japan and Indonesia but I encourage you to step out of the box and consider:
The Stans
The Stans
Why Go to the Stan Countries
Okay so what are The Stans? When I refer to The Stans I am talking about the five Central Asian nations of Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. We visited all five of these countries on a 28 day tour with Intrepid travel last fall. I LOVED IT! I was worried about a 28 day tour but Intrepid is so great, our guide was incredible and each of these countries offered all that I dream of in a destination. History, culture, nature, beauty, food….and so much more. Did I have a favorite? Nope. But Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan definitely stand out.
Don’t Miss
The incredible cities of Samarkand and Khiva in Uzbekistan. The night market in Khujand, Tajikistan. Hiking Charyn Canyon and Issyk Lake in Kazakstan, Skazka Canyon and eagle hunting in Kyrgyzstan. Check out Intrepid’s tours to this remarkable region of Asia. I can’t say enough good things about the experience.
Borneo
Borneo
Why Go to Borneo
We made a quick visit to Borneo from Malaysia (where we spent a month) specifically to see the endangered orangutans. We stayed at the incredible Sepilok Forest Edge Resort, right next door to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center. Not a zoo but a place for endangered orangutans to come, at their own free will, to get additional and much needed nourishment. Seeing these creatures, not behind fences, but walking around the wild was so astonishing. I loved it so much.
Don’t Miss
Don’t miss the Sepilok Orangutan Center, and the nearby Labak Bay Proboscis Monkey Reserve. Both incredible. I highly recommend staying at the Sepilok Forest Edge Resort, and if it’s the season, sign up for an evening firefly boat ride.
Philippines
Philippines
Why Go to the Philippines
I have to say, our month on the Philippine island of Panglao was one of the most unexpectedly pleasant places we have been anywhere in the world. It was our first time in the Philippines, and we really had no expectations. What we found was sunshine, inexpensive restaurants, kind people, beautiful beaches and THOUSANDS of scooters.
Don’t Miss
One of our most astonishing days on Bohol was visiting the Philippine Tarsier Foundation Sanctuary and getting up close and personal with the endangered, fascinating and teeny Tarsier. Our other absolutely do-not-miss thing is snorkeling with a guide off of Napaling Reef on the NW side of Panglao. One of my favorite snorkeling experiences ever.
OCEANIA & SOUTH PACIFIC
Sometimes overlooked and misunderstood, this vast area of 14 island nations is difficult to get to, thus less touristed. But so worth it. Australia and New Zealand, two of our favorite countries, are totally worth visiting. And many people do visit, despite how difficult they are to reach. Although we are not planning to see all of the islands in this region, we do hope to visit a few more in the years ahead. So beyond Australia and New Zealand you should consider something completely different;
French Polynesia
French Polynesia
Why Go to French Polynesia
Often mistakenly referred to as Tahiti, the island nation of French Polynesia is made up of 118 islands, one of which is Tahiti. We spent seven weeks on the island of Moorea, with a quick three days on Bora Bora. I loved the laid back island vibe of Moorea, even though there isn’t much going on. We hiked, snorkeled, relaxed, ate great seafood and loved every day. Moorea is a big dive destination too.
Don’t Miss
Moorea can be reached by ferry from Papeete, Tahiti where the international airport is. But to access other islands there is also a small airport on Moorea. We loved our food tour, learning about the unique local cuisine, a mix of many immigrants and islanders. I also took two cooking classes with CookLab Cooking School, and we loved a day trip to Coco Beach.
Papua New Guinea
Papua New Guinea
Why Go to Papua New Guinea
A caveat. This country is not for everyone. It was not a pleasure cruise. Papua New Guinea has lots of issues from crime to poor water and bad infrastructure. But, it also has one of the most ancient cultures still remaining on this planet. It was eye-opening to attend the annual Goroka Festival, where more than 100 tribes descend to spend a weekend dancing and celebrating in their native costume. I will never forget it.
Don’t Miss
The Goroka Festival. Hands down one of the most incredible cultural experiences of my life. Village visit – make sure you have a tour that will take you into the villages to see this ancient way of life on this remote island. Our tour also included some amazing bird watching excursions – and we saw the elusive bird of paradise. It’s far from five-star hotels and first class dining, but it will make you a better person.
Travel to These Unexpectedly Amazing Countries
“We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.” – Unknown.
We have worked hard, given up a lot, but have no regrets about the travel life we have created. I know some of the places we visit are not for everyone. But I implore you to consider travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries. Choose wisely in this time of both political and travel unrest. Be courteous and kind to host countries, and be aware of the impact you are making. The world is huge. There are so many undiscovered places to visit, many without millions of other tourists crowding the sites and restaurants. Be an explorer not a tourist. Just go.
PLEASE NOTE – we are heading out for the first of two North American road trips this summer. I will be posting regularly on Instagram but will not have a blog post on Friday for a few weeks. Wednesday Book Reviews will continue. Follow us on Instagram here.
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Summertime! In the summer we enjoy our time at our tiny house located on the Kitsap Penninsula in Washington State. It’s a respite from world travel, and a place we re-energize and prepare for winter travel. My husband and I both grew up in the great Pacific Northwest and when we are here we make a point to get out and be tourists in our own backyard. A few years ago this prompted my local series of blog posts. So today we begin again with Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Steilacoom.
Steilacoom Town Hall
Where is Steilacoom?
Steilacoom is a small city in Pierce County surrounded by Lakewood, Tacoma, and DuPont, as well as Joint Base Lewis-McChord on it’s North, East and South borders and the Tacoma Narrows waterway on the west. This historic little village is only about 2 square miles and has a population of around 7000. It is about two miles from Chambers Bay Golf Course. From where I live in Port Orchard Washington we travelled about 40 minutes over the Tacoma Narrows Bridge to make our way to Steilacoom.
Steilacoom was founded twice in 1851. Two land claims were filed in this best place on the South Sound, as Captain Lafayette Balch established Port Steilacoom with a 315-acre donation claim on January 10, 1851, and the lawyer John Chapman filed his own land clam for the adjacent 312 acres in October of the same year and named it Steilacoom City.
The two were merged by act of the Territorial Legislature on April 22 of 1854, but are still divided by Union Avenue, where the angle of the streets changes.
The Steilacoom Tribe was an independent group inhabiting a geographic area now known as the Tacoma Basin. There were approximately 600 Steilacoom Indians living in five bands within the basin. They spoke a separate subdialect of the Puget Sound Salish language. Unlike their closely related neighbors, the Puyallup and the Nisqually Tribes, the Steilacoom did not have a glacier-fed river within their territory for freshwater resources. The principal feature of the Steilacoom territory was a group of spirit-inhabited lakes.
Historic Byrd Mill Road
Beautiful Historic Homes
Steilacoom is home to many “firsts” in the region, and you can discover a wonderful self-guided walking tour to learn more about the history with the help of the city’s Steilacoom Walking Tour.
Pierce County Ferry to Anderson Island
Historic Railroad Depot
Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Steilacoom
This was not our first visit to Steilacoom; we used to ride our bikes from Gig Harbor to Steilacoom on sunny days. Today we traveled in my ’67 Mustang, as a weekend day trip we try to do as often as possible.
Walking Tour
Walking Tour
Our main destination on this day was The Bair at The Bair Drug & Hardware, a fabulous little breakfast and lunch spot in an incredibly well- preserved historic building built in 1895. Most of Steilacoom is made up of beautifully well-kept residences (many historic), but there are also a handful of businesses and restaurants. The Bair can get busy on a sunny summer day, but the wait is usually not too long. On the Saturday we visited, we walked right in.
Bair Drug & Hardware
Breakfast at The Bair
The Bair is like a museum inside. Great coffee too.
You might also enjoy the Steilacoom Taproom and the always popular Topside, with great views of the Narrows.
Topside Restaurant
Steilacoom Taproom
Recommend
Steilacoom is small, and there is usually lots of parking. Stroll and enjoy. Walk down to the ferry dock where the Pierce County ferry to Anderson Island operates. Here you will also see the old train depot and likely see a train fly by…as they do about 70 times a day. If you are in Steilacoom on the weekend, visit the Historical Museum (open Saturday and Sunday afternoons).
Steilacoom Historical Museum
Orr Wagon Shop Steilacoom Historical Museum
Steilacoom is home to several parks you can enjoy, and if you have time a visit and stroll on the paths at Chambers Creek Regional Park next to Chambers Bay Golf Club is fun. Just a short drive away.
With my ’67 Mustang at Sunnyside Beach Park Steilacoom
Thanks for reading my post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Steilacoom. Make a visit to this hidden gem, and definitely don’t miss The Bair at The Bair Drug & Hardware. Stay tuned for more hidden gems coming up. Read my last post Traveling in France by Rail here.
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We spent nine days traveling in France by rail from Bordeaux to Paris on board the SNCF, the French rail service. We visited Lyon, Dijon and Luxembourg before reaching our final destination of Paris. Train travel in Europe is an excellent way to go, but be aware! We made a few mistakes and learned a few things. Here is a recap of our nine day trip – All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail.
Upper level on our first leg
Bordeaux
After four weeks living in Bordeaux we packed up and left with regrets. We truly loved our time in that wonderful city and we will definitely return. The morning we left to begin our traveling in France by rail adventure, our train departed at 6:00am…so the Uber arrived at 5:00am.
Bordeaux to Lyon Six Hours
Since we travel for extended periods we are not light packers, and this is the main drawback of traveling by rail. Several of our trains, including this first one, we were seated in the upper deck. It’s not an easy task dragging bags up the narrow stairs. Additionally the luggage racks are not big. On our first trek there were several cyclists, but no bike racks. Some trains do offer racks for bicycles. But on this first train the majority of the luggage space for our first leg was taken by bikes, leaving us with minimal options for our luggage. First lesson, when traveling in France by rail pack light.
Early morning departure
Sunrise views
We watched the sun come up and Venus rising too out the window as we headed to Tours where we would change to a different train. I immediately realized how much more you see from a train than when traveling by car. Miles and miles of gorgeous farmland and tiny villages.
Traveling in France by Rail
But before reaching Tours we encountered our first problem about traveling in France by rail. Let me explain:
We had purchased a France-only Eurail pass via the Eurail app. The pass we selected (about $200 per person) was good for four days of train travel – with the understanding that, for the high-speed trains we planned to travel on, a separate purchase of a reserved seat was required. After purchasing the reserved seats through the SNCF app, we got a ticket showing the reserved seat. The mistake was in thinking that this was our complete ticket – it’s not! It only shows that we had paid for the seat reservation – an additional step of validating the Eurail pass (via the Eurail app, NOT the SNCF app) for travel on that date and train is necessary. So when the ticket inspector approached, we showed him our seat reservation tickets, but he also wanted to see the validated Eurail pass – we had the pass but not the validation – he was not happy – in fact he was very rude. He let us go, without really explaining what we had done wrong, or if we needed to do something more. We were left confused.
Lyon
Arriving in Lyon for two nights, we made the right decision to stay at a hotel (Campanile Lyon Centre) next to the Part-Dieu train station. Lyon has two train stations (Perrache and Part Dieu) so make sure you book near the correct one. The train station is also the metro station, so we did not need to drag our bags into the old city. We love a good Metro, and Lyon’s was great.
Lyon’s Notre Dame
Beautiful
We had two days to explore Lyon, which really wasn’t enough time but we hit the ground running. The weather was excellent.
Lyon Old town
So many restaurants to chose from
We spent most of our time in Vieux Lyon (Old Town), and we used GPS My City to follow two different walking tours on our own. Over the two days we walked ALOT.
Day One
The city sits at the confluence of two rivers (the Rhone and the Saone), thus many bridges, and there is also an upper city. On day one we started with the upper city. We took the funicular (included in your Metro ticket) up to the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral with outstanding views over the city below. We wandered down through the botanical gardens and then around to the Theatre Gallo Romaine. The Ancient Theatre of Fourvière is a Roman theatre in Lyon. It was built on the hill of Fourvière, which is located in the center of the Roman city. The theatre is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site protecting the historic center of Lyon.
Beautiful Lyon
We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring shops and food in the old town. We tasted the famous Lyon bright red pralines and dipped into one of the famous chocolate shops and enjoyed delicious treats.
Mid-day Pastry Break
Day Two
We love using GPS My City and we combined several options to spend the entire day exploring Lyon. We started with one of the most beautiful food markets I have ever seen, Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. You could spend the entire day here.
Les Halles de Lyon
Lyon is famous for this red prallines
Moving on to Place Bellacour, visiting the Little Prince statue and then Place de Cistines, Lyon’s stunning 200 year old theatre.
Place Bellacour is Europes largest public square
Little Prince statue
So Much to See
We did a lot of climbing on this day visiting Lyon Cathedral, Place de Jacobins, Place de Terreaux. La Tour Rose and the Montee des Chazeaux steps. Eventually we crossed the river on the beautiful Passarelle Saint-Vincent pedestrian bridge and using GPS My City we found the Fresque de Lyonaise, a mural depicting historic figures of Lyon. We enjoyed a lovely stroll along the river on a beautiful day.
Beautiful views along the river
It’s a scavenger hunt to find La Tour Rose, but worth it.
Montee des Chazeaux steps
Fresque de Lyonnaise
There is much more to Lyon, and we will need to return for another visit. After a quick refresh at the hotel, we headed back to Rue Saint-Jean, the main old town shopping street for dinner at the famous Chez Grand-Mere. An underground restaurant where I enjoyed a Lyonnaise dish called quennelles. It was delicious.
Chez Grand-Mere
Fish Quennelles. So good.
The city has many gathering places of beauty and heritage
Dijon
Next morning we had an easier departure time of 11:00am. We said our farewells to Lyon and boarded our next train.
Lyon to Dijon Four Hours
Alas we encountered another problem when the ticket steward came along. This time we had a woman who was sympathetic to us being novices, and she took a great deal of time to explain to us in detail what we had done wrong…something the first rude guy did not do. She was very helpful even though we had to pay 50 Euro due to our mistake….not having completed adding the specific date and train to our Eurail pass via the Eurail app. But we felt confident we finally had it right. She told us this is a common mistake…and the added costs can be much more than she charged us. So be aware!
Beautiful Dijon
Bonjour Dijon
Arriving in Dijon we were met by our American friends who live half time in Dijon, and the other half in the USA. It was a great treat to have them as our escort on our first day. It was about a 15 minute easy walk from the train station to old town. After checking in to the hotel (B&B Hotel Dijon Centre) located in a great location of the old town, we headed out to explore.
Our personal guides!
With only two days in this great city, it was nice to have “locals” to give us the scoop on the best things to see and do. We walked throughout the old town, as they shared with us their favorites and suggested things for us to do on our own on day two. We ended our day with our friends at a little hole-in-the-wall place they love called La Cave Se Rebiffe. Essentially a wine bar with a huge wine menu and a tiny food menu. We ate charcuterie, terrine, pasta and blood sausage with lots of great local wine from the Burgundy region.
La Cave Se Rebiffe Chacuterie
Learning about Burgundy region wines
Day Two
Day two we hit the ground running on our own. We headed first to Liberation Square for photos of the famous Ducal Palace. The Palace of the Dukes and Estates of Burgundy or Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne is a remarkably well-preserved architectural assemblage built in the 15th century. Today it houses the City Hall and the Beaux Arts Museum. We headed to the tourist office to obtain a 12 euro ticket to climb the Phillip the Good Tower later in the afternoon with a guide. That tower climb really was one of my favorite things in the city.
Lyon’s lucky owl
Musee de Beaux Arts
Climbing Phillip the Good Tower
What a view!
History, Food, Wine, Oh My
Next we went cathedral hopping – Dijon is a small village with an astonishing number of cathedrals. The Notre Dame Cathedral and its famous (somewhat hidden) owl sculpture, has become a symbol of this city.
We loved the Rue des Forges and the beautiful half timbered houses, many currently being lovingly restored and preserved. We made our way to the world famous Edmond Fallot Mustard shop. Fallot is the only remaining family-owned and -operated mustard factory in the Dijon region. I have been buying this brand of mustard every time I’m in France for the past twenty years. So delicious. I stocked up for gifts and for myself.
Half Timbered Houses
Dijon is a village of cathedrals
Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne
Since many businesses and restaurants are closed on Monday in France, we asked our local friends for a dinner suggestion. They said Parapluie (translation: umbrella). We made a reservation not knowing anything about this restaurant, and ended up being absolutely charmed by the chef’s choice menu, incredible wine selection, outstanding service and the unexpectedly reasonable price. I highly recommend.
Parapluie
Parapluie
We woke up early on our departure day and walked over the the Halles de Dijon. It had been closed on Monday so we wanted to see it briefly Tuesday morning before we left. One of the best food halles in France. Such a variety of local delicacies for sale. Next time I will spend an entire day there.
Les Halles de Dijon
The freshest
I could easily have spent another three or four days in this lovely, walkable, delicious medieval city. I hope to be back.
Luxembourg
Traveling in France by Rail
Our train to Luxembourg left about a half an hour late, which apparently is unusual when traveling in France by rail. But we eventually got on our way and luckily this time, no issues with our ticket! However, please note if you are traveling on the France-only Eurail pass, you need a separate ticket for the last leg from the final stop in France into Luxembourg. We did not change trains, but we did need two separate tickets (nobody checked, but we did not want to risk it!).
Hubs is tired of dragging the bags…
Dijon to Luxembourg 3 hours
The tiny country of Luxembourg gave us our 148th country, and what a lovely place it was. The only constitutional duchy in the world, it is often referred to as the Grand Duchy. A constitutional duchy is a territory ruled by a duke or duchess, but where the ruler’s powers are limited by a constitution. The duchy itself is the territory or domain, while the ruler’s title is the dukedom.
Palace of the Duchy
Luxembourg City is much larger than Dijon and we took a cab from the train station to our hotel (Hotel Vauban). I loved the location of our hotel right on Place Guillaume II, and perfectly situated in the old center. We were happy to be here for two nights.
Luxembourg City
Get Your Walking Shoes
Luxembourg City and the lower village of Gund are all quite walkable. But if you don’t want to go up and down the hills, take advantage of the FREE public transportation (tram and bus). We however enjoyed walking everywhere as we usually do.
Inside the Bock Casemates
That is one deep well
There is a lot to enjoy in Luxembourg so we dropped our bags at the hotel and headed out to explore. We took our time leisurely walking through the beautiful medieval old town, before arriving at the Bock Casemates – a must-see when in Luxembourg. The Bock Casemates, a subterranean defense system made up of kilometers of tunnels, is today one of the most important visitor sites in Luxembourg. These underground galleries were initially carved in the 17th century, under Spanish rule, and subsequently twice extended.
Like a Fairy Tale
Next we did a lovely walk down in the lower village known as Gund, stopping for a cold drink at the Good Weather Bar, only open in good weather! From the outdoor bar and on our walk we enjoyed picturesque views along the Alzette River. It truly looks like something out of a fairy tale. We made our way to the city’s oldest brewery, now a restaurant, called Big Beer and had a giant and delicious early dinner. Luxembourg has it’s own cuisine that leans a bit more German than French but also all it’s own. The pork knuckle was as big as my head. We continued our Gund walk to the Panoramic Elevator of the Pfaffenthal. A free elevator that takes people back up to the upper city with great views too.
Good Weather Bar
Panoramic Elevator of the Pfaffenthal
We were lucky with such great weather
Giant Pork Knuckle at Big Beer
Day Two
We woke up and looked out the window of our room to find a weekly market set up on the square in front of the hotel. So we started our day walking through and admiring all the fresh items for sale. Next we walked over the Pont Adolphe bridge and back over the La Passerelle bridge, in an effort see all angles of the beautiful city, before meeting our free walking tour.
A variety of old and modern bridges keep Luxembourg moving
Free Walkingt Tour
We do free (tip based) walking tours in many cities, and this two-plus hour tour was really exceptional. We visited the palace, the old fish market, Saint Michael’s Cathedral, Notre Dame Cathedral, the Monument of Remembrance and walked along the stunning ancient Chemin de la Corniche. You could easily visit all these on your own, but having a local guide to explain the history, give restaurant tips and insider information is always worth it.
Notre Dame Luxembourg
The Monument of Remembrance
After the tour we were starving so we headed to one of the city’s best restaurants for local cuisine, Brasserie du Cercle. I wanted to try the local dumpling dish called Kniddelen and Arne had a potato pancake with pork called Gromperekichelcher. Both were great. It was a hot day and the local Luxembourg beer was a perfect match.
Kniddelen
Gromperekichelcher.
After an afternoon of shopping for gifts and treats we had a rest at the hotel before dinner at Um Dierfgen. We were still full from lunch but we enjoyed a light dinner including the local seasonal specialty of white asparagus.
Luxembourg’s famous Chocolate House Nathanal Bonn
White Asparagus in season
It was a whirlwind tour of this beautiful place and I am so glad we made the time to visit Luxembourg City. But now it’s time to head to Paris.
Charming Luxembourg City
Paris
Of course we have visited Paris before (a few times) but we always look forward to seeing this beautiful city of lights. So back on board we go!
Bonjour Paris! Ravi de vous voir!
Luxembourg City to Paris Three Hours
Arriving in Paris at Gare de Est we decided to take an Uber rather than wrangle our bags on the Metro. But we used the Paris Metro the rest of our time and it is such a great metro system.
Since we have been to Paris many times, we decided to not do all the major attractions, except we really wanted to see the newly reopened Notre Dame.
The beautiful Marais neighborhood
Parisians enjoying a sunny May Day bank holiday
Our hotel, (the Hotel Le Compostelle), was in the Marais neighborhood, and we spent our first afternoon wandering and enjoying the sites and sounds and smells of the Marais. We were there on a holiday (May Day) and all the Parisians were out enjoying the fine spring weather. We then met our good friends who live in Paris at a restaurant called Acme and it was incredible! One of the best meals we have ever had in Paris. Multi course, chef’s choice dinner with an amazing wine pairing. We ate, sipped and talked well into the night, sitting outside on a warm night. Parfaite!
Innovative haute cuisine at Acme
Good food and friends
Day Two
Next morning we were up early (thank you coffee) because we had a reserved time to enter Notre Dame. I highly recommend getting a reserved time if you will be in Paris during the busy season. You can go on the Notre Dame website at 12:01 am two days before you want to visit and reserve a time. You can also wait in line, but the line can sometimes be hours long, so we recommend reserving a time. I loved seeing the new Notre Dame, it has been so lovingly restored and it is stunning. Don’t miss it.
French Coffee. Nothing better.
Notre Dame
Newly restored and beautiful Notre Dame
We spent the rest of this day wandering and enjoying our favorite sites including Jardin de Luxembourg, and views of Tour Eiffel. I wanted to visit two iconic Paris shops for souvenirs – Marin Montagut and La Grand Epicerie de Paris. We also visited Rue Montorgueil, a new-to-us area of Paris with so many restaurants. Here we had a perfect Nicoise Salad and wine for lunch at Les Artizans. Back to the hotel for a rest and then out to an amazing dinner at Grand Coeur. Wow the beef tenderloin for two was incredible. Highly recommend.
Jardin de Luxembourg
La Grand Epicerie de Paris
Rue Montorgueil,
Lunch at Les Artizans
Grand Coeur Beef Tenderloin. Wow.
Day Three
The forecast said possible late afternoon thunderstorms but the day dawned bright and blue. We took the train outside of the city to the stunning and new-to-us Parc de Sceaux – a hidden gem just outside of Paris. Here we met a group of women from a Facebook walking group I am in, and spent the next two hours talking to them (most expats from United Kingdom) and exploring this stunning park. Such a joy.
Parc de Sceaux.
Parc de Sceaux.
Back into the city to meet our friend again to explore the Carnavalet Museum, one Paris museum we had never visited. I heard great things about this museum, and we only had two hours which was not enough. We really enjoyed the historic presentation and will check it out again on our next visit.
Carnavalet Museum
Carnavalet Museum
Expect the Unexpected
Just as we were getting ready to leave the museum, we witnessed one of the most astonishing weather events of my life. In a matter of minutes the weather changed from blue sky and sun to black clouds, fierce wind and golf ball size hail. It hailed so hard and so much the hail piled up on the street like snow. Luckily we were not caught outside because people were injured and many cars and outdoor venues were damaged. Trees were down. It was wild and crazy.
Hail as big as golf balls. OMG.
Not only was it our final night in Paris, but it was our final night of this four month, seven country journey. We were tired and ready to head home. But we enjoyed one last Paris meal at Au Bourguignon du Marais This famous restaurant is a bit touristy, but it was close to our hotel and we had a good meal and also enjoyed visiting the two oldest houses in Paris just down the street. The medieval half timbered houses on the Rue Francois Miron are the only ones remaining in Paris, built in the 15th century.
Au Bourguignon du Marais
Rue Francois Miron timbered houses still in use
Traveling in France by Rail
Five cities in nine days using the France Rail SNCF… was a fun experience. Easy and efficient the train also provides a relaxing trip, with WIFi and the most amazing views. I would definitely do it again, but with smaller suitcases. You should consider traveling in France by Rail.
Traveling in France by Rail
We had a very early Uber ride to Charles de Gaulle for our flight back to the USA and our summer home in Washington State. Merci France. We loved our five plus weeks enjoying your culture, food, wine and history. Au Revoir. Abientot!
Parc de Sceaux.
Thank you for reading my post All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail. Be sure to see our post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux and last week’s post What’s Next for My Fab Fifites Life. Over the next few weeks I will continue to have Wednesday book reviews, but will take a wee break from writing travel content. I promise to return soon.
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good to stop and really absorb our own reality.
in our Fabulous Fifties our bodies did not fail us. It was about day 12 when one morning I got up to get ready to go and my body acknowledged it. I think that morning my body said “Oh – I get it. You intend to do this long walk EVERY day. Okay now I understand. I can do that. Let’s go.”
people it is who tackle a Camino walk. We met some fascinating people from all over the world, many who will live in our memories forever. I can’t think of any other experience we have ever had where it included so many people from so many cultures speaking so many languages but all sharing the same goal. That was a wonderful and inspiring lesson- one our world leaders should learn. We are all in this together.
that down.
experience and what this milestone means. But in the meantime, our Grand Adventure goes on. We have planes to catch and new adventures ahead.
weeks, then a quick five days in India and a week in Bangladesh visiting our friend Natalie before flying to the Maldives for almost a month. We plan to relax and do nothing here.
