Location: Mount Rainier National Park Washington State USA
Growing up in the Pacific Northwest I had no idea what a little paradise I lived in. As kids we never do. Only as an adult and after traveling all over the world did I truly grow to love Washington State and the Pacific Northwest. Today is the final post in my summer series. I hope you enjoy Hidden Gems of the PNW – Ashford to Paradise.
Myrtle Falls, Paradise Mount Rainier National Park
Ashford – Gateway to Mount Rainier National Park
We had avoided hiking in Mount Rainier for most of the summer, due to how busy it can be. But as fall came a knocking we started visiting The Mountain again. We hiked on the Sunrise side of Mount Rainier National Park two weeks in a row. Then, we decided to spend three days in Ashford with easy access to the Paradise side of Mount Rainier. I am so glad we did, a perfect hidden gem.
Whitaker’s Bunkhouse is one overnight option, and also a great place to have ice cream
History of Ashford
Ashford, Washington, was founded by Walter and Cora Ashford, who homesteaded there in the 1880s and platted the town in 1904. Named after the couple, Ashford became a railroad terminus for the Tacoma Eastern Railway, facilitating logging, mining, and importantly, tourism to the newly established Mount Rainier National Park. The impressive Ashford Mansion, built in 1903, served as a rural hotel and is a testament to the family’s success and the town’s connection to the park’s gateway.
Ashford General Store is small
Today there is not a lot to see and do in Ashford, except it is the perfect place to stay if you want easy access to the park. Ashford has a couple restaurants, a gas station and convenience store as well as a teeny market that does not offer much. But we came to stay at the Ashford Lodge.
Ashford Lodge
When I saw the vintage trailers that are part of the Ashford Lodge on Airbnb, I knew this was the perfect place for us. The Ashford Lodge has cabins as well as four vintage trailers set out in a field. Each trailer is authentically restored and includes a separate building next door for toilet and shower. We stayed in the Layla trailer, a vintage Shasta from the 1950’s. Layla is the largest lot of the four, and includes the biggest cherry tree I have ever seen, with a comfy hammock to enjoy.
The same trailer we had when I was a little kid. Somehow we slept six people in it in the 1960’s
We came prepared with enough food for our two nights and three days, and found the cooking set up reliable and the bed comfortable. We would certainly consider staying here again.
Beautiful restoration of the Shasta
Clean and functional toilet and shower
Peaceful
Paradise Lakes Trail
Mount Rainier National Park’s busiest area is definitely Paradise, home to the historic Paradise Inn and the very nice Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center (opened in 2008).No matter when you visit in the summer it will be busy though, and parking can be a challenge despite hundreds of parking spots. IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER Dogs are NOT allowed in the park, nor should you leave your pet in your car. Be smart and leave your animal at home.
We arrived about 9:30am on a gorgeous hot day, the day after Labor Day. The weather was hands down the hottest weather I have ever encountered at Mount Rainier, well over 80 degrees Fahrenheit at 7000 feet. The mountain too seemed to have the least amount of snow on it I can remember in my lifetime.
The Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center, Paradise
Lakes Trail on a glorious September day
Lakes Loop Trail
We found parking pretty easily and headed out to do a hike called the Lakes Loop Trail that we had never done before. Our first stop was Myrtle Falls. Getting to the park early meant we were able to take some beautiful photos of Myrtle Falls before the crowds descended. Often this destination, only 0.5 miles from the parking lot, is crawling with visitors.
At Myrtle Falls before the crowds arrived
After Myrtle Falls we continued on the Lakes Loop Trail. It was hot. We walked and climbed and enjoyed the spectacular views. We ran out of water though, even though we were carrying a lot. We returned to our car where a welcome seltzer awaited in the cooler. Such a great day.
We had the Lakes Loop Trail all to ourselves
Back to Ashford Lodge and our cute little Layla where we enjoyed dinner I had brought from home and relaxed with a glass of wine.
This isn’t roughing it
Paradise Skyline Loop
The weather was going to be hot again, so we got up early and entered the park at 6:50am. We were on the trail by 7:20am. The Skyline Loop Trail is the most popular trail for visitors to Mount Rainier. We had done this hike once before and loved it. On this day we encountered few visitors in the morning, but by afternoon it was busy again.
Beginning the climb on Skyline Loop as the sun comes up
Wildfires in the region cause the sun to have an eerie glow
The Skyline Loop trail is not for everyone. It takes anywhere from 4-5 hours depending on your ability and speed. It’s just over five miles total but includes some uneven rocky surfaces and loose shale crossing as well as an over all elevation gain of 1800 feet. But the views are what everyone comes for. On this day however, the Pacific Northwest was experiencing heavy smoke from several forest fires burning in the region. Forest fires in Washington State are not uncommon in late summer, although this problem has gotten much worse with climate change.
At the top of Skyline Loop. You can see the hazy smoke in the valley below.
Despite the smoke, such a beautiful day
Some of Skyline Loop is very rocky and loose
Wildlife in Mount Rainier National Park
In addition to the spectacular views, spotting wildlife and birds is a favorite part of visiting this spectacular park. While hiking the Skyline Loop Trail we were thrilled to see several mountain goats (caution these animals are dangerous and people have been killed), dozens of marmots, pika, chipmunks and a new to us bird, the white tailed ptarmigan.
Four mountain goats napping just off the trail
Marmots are common and not dangerous
Ashford and Elbe
There are a few other things you can do in Ashford as well as in neighboring Elbe. We visited the Ashford Creek Gallery, filled with art, pottery and historic images and books. We also really enjoyed visiting the Ashford Spirits of Iron Sculpture Park – home to a fantastic outdoor collection of art made from scrap metal. Very entertaining. Alder Lake is very close, although at the end of a long hot summer there was very little water in this reservoir lake. The water level changes seasonally.
Ashford Creek Pottery
Spirit of Iron Sculpture Park
We also made a brief visit to Elbe. Elbe grew as a logging town until the Alder Lake dam project in the 1940s flooded the valley. Today, Elbe is a small community known for its historic Elbe Evangelical Lutheran Church built in 1906, the Elbe Market Country Store, and its location on the route to Mount Rainier National Park, attracting tourists with its historic railroad depot, home to the Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad. We wanted to have breakfast in Elbe at the Mount Rainier Railroad Dining Company to eat in a railroad car. Alas they don’t open until 11am. If you want to visit be sure to check hours on their website.
Elbe’s Evangelico Lutheran Church
Elbe General Store and the Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad
Hidden Gems of the PNW – Ashford to Paradise
There are other hikes and activities in the region and I definitely think we will come back again, stay in cute little Layla and explore even more of Ashford to Paradise. I highly recommend you do too.
It’s been a great summer. More fun travel on the way! Thanks for your continued interest and support. We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts.
This book. Mind boggling. Described by critics as both brilliant and confounding…for me I’m going with brilliant. It’s not for everyone, but I was astonished. Here is my book review To Paradise by Hanya Yanagihara.
If you are looking for an easy read…this is not it. This book is intense and sometimes horrific. But Yanagihara has a beautiful ability to develop characters that take your hand and bring you right into the story. Or stories in this case.
Because this novel is essentially three stories…three stories that seemingly don’t connect, but keep reading. They will. The three stories are placed 100 years apart; 1893 in New York City, 1993 in Hawaii and 2093 in New York City.
But none of these places will be familiar to the reader. An alternate New York City exists in this book. In 1893 it’s not in the United States, it exists in an alternative country after a revolution. It’s openly Lesbian/Gay friendly. Arranged marriages are common. History is rewritten through the bold yet quiet imagination of Yanagihara.
In the second story we find ourselves in Hawaii in 1993. Unrest, global warming, and family legacy in the island nation finds the characters searching for meaning. But wait these characters all have the same names as 100 years ago. What exactly is going on here?
And then boom. We are back in New York in the year 2093. This astonishing third story for me was gripping, and a bit too close to home. Pandemics, intense heat, unbreathable air, and a country in utter chaos. Here the characters are honest and emotional and so believable – even given the dystopian world they occupy.
With all this angst and uncertainty can this story end happily? The overriding theme through-out is hope; hope for the survival of the planet, our human species, family, love and happiness.
An extraordinary work, that may take some time to digest. But I give high praise to the imagination and beautiful story telling of Yanagihara. Thank you for reading my book review To Paradise by Hanya Yanagihara.
*****Five stars for To Paradise by Hanya Yanagihara.
I arrived in Tasmania Australia with absolutely no expectations. I love it when that happens. Sometimes it’s on purpose and other times it’s just because we are busy and have not really planned our visit. Usually this results in wonderful surprises and discoveries – and this is exactly what happened for us in Tasmania – Australia’s Island Paradise.
Hobart from on top of Mount Wellington
Tasmania – Australia’s Island Paradise
Island Paradise? Absolutely. But maybe not in the way you are thinking. It’s not tropical…but there are beautiful beaches. You’ll love that it’s not crowded…most of it wild and undeveloped. Also it’s not hot…with four seasons but rarely getting over 75 – 80F degrees in the short summer.
And yet it truly is a little Eden. About half the size of the State of Washington, the heart shaped island is home to a fascinating collection of birds, animals and plants. With miles of undeveloped coast, rain forests, mountains, waterfalls, lakes and meadows. A hardy local population of about 540,000 are friendly, patriotic and helpful.
Beautiful Tasmanian beach
Tasmania has a rich history. Home to aboriginal tribes for tens of thousands of years, the tribes were nearly wiped out when Europeans arrived. Abel Tasman, the Dutch explorer, first named the island Van Diemen’s Land in the 1640’s. The British began “transportation” in the early 1800’s, transporting convicts to gaols (jails) throughout Australia including Tasmania. In an effort to colonize the area, more than 162,000 men, women and children served hard labor between 1788 and 1868. Most of them stayed, and populated the Australian mainland and Tasmania. It is estimated that 20% of today’s Australian population can trace their roots to British convicts transported during this time.
What’s Your Pleasure?
During our visit, Tasmania provided us activities that we enjoy the most; bird and wildlife spotting, hiking, walking, learning about history, eating seafood and drinking local wine and beer! We did all that and more during our four week visit to Tasmania – Australia’s Island Paradise.
Amazing local beer and wine throughout Tasmania
Most people probably aren’t going to spend an entire month. But hopefully this post will help you set your priorities for visiting Tasmania.
By the way – if you plan to visit more than one national park in Tasmania, it’s worth it to purchase an annual pass which we did. Definitely worth it for us at US$60. Learn more about it here.
We spent an entire month in a wonderful historic Airbnb in Hobart. All but two of the activities listed below we did as day trips from Hobart. One overnight was to Freycinet National Park, although we could have done that in a day trip too. Additionally we took two nights to go north and visit Launceston and Cradle Mountain. It was great to use Hobart as our home base, since we had such a lot of time to work with. If you have less time, be sure to spend at least a few days in lovely Hobart because there is much to do. Read all about the amazing things we did while living in Hobart for a month here Hobart Australia’s Most Surprising Town.
DISTANCE FROM HOBART – 35 min drive and 30 min ferry ride.
Bruny Island (approximation)
A short drive from Hobart to the small town of Kettering, you catch a small ferry to Bruny Island. Plan ahead because sometimes you wait a couple of ferries – it’s really small. Once on the island, there are some fun things to do…we did it as a day trip but depending on how much time you have it could be a great overnight. Bruny is home to some great hikes including Fluted Cape Walk, which we did. It involved a pretty steep climb but that gave us some wonderful views. We had hoped to see the famous Bruny Island white wallaby but unfortunately we didn’t. Hopefully you will. There are about 200 on the island.
Bruny has beautiful beaches and several wineries. We took some time to visit a local brewery that also makes cheese Bruny Island Beer and Cheese Company and enjoyed a little lunch.
Bruny Island Beer and Cheese Company
A popular thing to do on Bruny is get out on the water on an organized boat cruise. We didn’t do this, but there are many ways to enjoy the water…and many other things as well. Learn all about what to do on Bruny Island here.
We started early for this day trip and enjoyed everything we did. Starting on the Tasman Peninsula we made several stops to enjoy the beauty of this astounding scenery of this area. This is home to the multi day hike known as the Three Capes. On this visit to Tasmania we were not prepared to do overnight hiking, but it’s one of the most popular things to do in Tasmania. Learn more about it here.
However our day trip included some short walks that provided us outstanding views of this rugged and beautiful area. Starting with a couple of short loop walks that took us to the Tasman’s Arch and then to the Devils Kitchen. Another short walk in this same area is to a Blow Hole at Fossil Bay, with spectacular panoramas along the gorgeous coast. I highly recommend a stop at the Tessellated Pavement too. It’s also a short walk and worth it to view this very unique rock formation, created by the expanding salt in the rock cracks. Unreal and bewitching.
Tasman’s Arch
Tessellated Pavement
Devil’s Kitchen and Coast
Alien looking “loafs” at Tessellated Pavement
Port Arthur
At the end of the Tasman Peninsula we come to Port Arthur, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and former penal colony. Between 1830 and 1877 nearly 13,000 convicts came to this remote point of the Tasman Peninsula, at that time reachable only by water. The convicts that were housed here were those who recommitted crimes. A high offender penitentiary. The museum and self-guided tour is so perfectly presented and easy to understand. At the start of the tour you receive a playing card with the name and picture of someone who either lived or worked in Port Arthur. As you tour the grounds you read the interpretive signage and try to find your person. It was fun and interesting for young and old alike. This unique historical site of Port Arthur is sad, but frankly beautiful too. Port Arthur is a not to be missed attraction of Tasmania.
Engaging way to explore Port Arthur
Port Arthur
Beautiful too
As we returned to Hobart we stopped at one of the dozens of wineries in this area. Visiting Bangor Vineyard winery we enjoyed an early dinner in their incredible restaurant and some delicious wine too.
At 600 feet, you’ll enter this beautiful national park and find a cool rain forest and home to some of Tasmania’s tallest Eucalyptus trees. We enjoyed a full day hike doing the three waterfalls loop. On our visit we hiked about 7 miles but there are short and easy wilderness walks that take you through the beautiful fern trees and to the popular Russell Falls, one of Tasmania’s most beautiful waterfalls. After our hike and picnic lunch we drove up to Lake Dobson. It was noticeably colder at this elevation of 3500 feet. In the winter it’s popular for snow activities at Mount Mawson Ski Field. Mount Fields National Park is not as popular as some of the other national parks close to Hobart, we loved how few people were there on our visit. I highly recommend you visit.
DISTANCE FROM HOBART One hour by car and then 30 min by boat.
Maria Island
One of our favorite things we did on Tasmania was visiting Maria Island (pronounced mar – EYE – ah). Another national park, it is remote and beautiful and home to abundant wildlife. I recommend booking your boat ahead, especially during high season. It’s recommended you arrive at the ferry 45 min before your departure. The passenger-only ferry with Encounter Maria departs from the small town of Triabunna. At the ferry you will find parking, rest rooms and a small place for coffee and fish and chips.
One day or More
The boat ride can be a bit bumpy, so if you are like me plan ahead with your motion meds. On arrival there are multiple hiking options depending on your fitness level. We did three different hikes; first to the Fossil Cliffs, about an hour and half. The fossils are pretty cool and the hike along the rocky cliff side of the island is windswept and beautiful. We encountered kangaroo on this section.
Next we did the Reservoir Circuit, a very peaceful walk through tall forests with fewer people. On this walk we saw our first potoroo and some beautiful birds.
We walked through the Darlington Township, another of Australia’s penal colonies of the 1800’s and enjoyed our picnic lunch at one of the provided tables. It was here that we encountered the rare Cape Barren Goose.
Boat to Maria Island
Fossil Cliffs
Fossils
Next we walked along the beautiful Rutherford Beach cove to the Painted Cliffs, one of the most beautiful areas of the island. A fascinating geological feature of Maria you don’t want to miss. Make sure to check on the tide however, to properly see the Painted Cliffs the tide must be low enough to walk to them.
Walking back to the ferry we encountered wombats. Several wombats, including a Mama and a baby. Such a treat to see these incredible marsupials up close.
We took the 10:00 AM boat out of Triabunna and returned on the 4:15 departure from Maria. This gave us plenty of time to do all of the above. There are longer hikes as well, and you can stay the night in both small historic lodging or camping. Don’t miss Maria Island when visiting Tasmania.
We visited Freycinet as an overnight but you could do it as a day trip from Hobart. Deciding to make it an overnight, we stayed in the tiny town of Swansea, about an hour from the park, in a small cabin in a caravan park. Swansea has a few restaurants but not much else. We did enjoy a walk through town and along the waterfront.
Beautiful beach near Swansea
Dinner in Swansea at The Branch
Wine Glass Bay
Wine Glass Bay is the main thing most people come to see. There is a fairly steep hike up to the viewpoint that includes about 1000 stairs. Once at the top the view makes you forget all about that. At the lookout, you can choose to walk another 1000 steps down to the beautiful sandy beach. Then, turn around and back up, and down the other side. It is a bit difficult, but if you take your time, I think nearly anyone could do it. Be sure and bring water.
Looking down onto Wine Glass Bay
The beach at Wine Glass Bay
Made it to the top!
Cape Tourville Light
It’s also worth it to visit Cape Tourville Light. The view is incredibly, and although very windy I definitely recommend the short walk around the light. The view from the windy cliff where the light house sits is stunning.
OVERNIGHT – we did Launceston as part of a two day tour of Launceston, Devonport and Cradle Mountain (see below)
Distance from Hobart 2 hours 30 minutes
Launceston (approximation)
Launceston is Tasmania’s second largest city. Located on the Tamar River, it’s home to James Boag’s Brewery – Australia’s largest brewery. It’s a small town with lots of historic charm in the Victorian style architecture. It’s easy to do a self-guided walking tour. Don’t miss the Old Umbrella Shop, owned by National Trust Tasmania.
If the weather is fine make sure to visit the Cataract Gorge and ride the old school Cataract Chair Lift over the gorge.
National Trust Old Umbrella Shop
Cataract Gorge
Cradle Mountain National Park and Devonport
OVERNIGHT
Distance from Hobart 4 hours. From Devonport it’s about 1 hour 30 min.
We drove from Launceston on to Devonport (about an hour) where we rented a tiny cottage in a caravan park with views of the the Bass Strait. We chose Devonport because it was easy to access Cradle Mountain National Park which was our main reason for coming to this area. The region is very agarian, a bit windy and absolutely beautiful. Devonport is home to the ferry that crosses the Bass Strait, the treacherous span of water to mainland Australia.
We didn’t have much time in Devonport, and frankly there isn’t a lot to do. We enjoyed a leisurely walk along the waterfront a long and well maintained Torquay Heritage Trail.
The best thing we did in Devonport was go at sunset to see the Little Penguins. Often called Fairy Penguins these little cuties leave their chicks on shore and go out to fish from just before sunup until after sunset. Conservation volunteers man the overlook at Lillico Penguin Viewing Platform each evening to help visitors spot the little penguins as they come ashore. It was cold and windy and of course dark…but I’m sure glad we did it.
Torquay Heritage Trail
Little Penguin at Lillico Viewing Platform – using red lights to see the penguins after dark
We arrived at Cradle Mountain National Park about 10am. It was the week after Christmas and it was really busy with tourists and locals too. We hadn’t realized that visiting Cradle Mountain means a shuttle bus inside the park. At first I was annoyed about that…always wanting to be able to control my timeline. However, it was a very efficient system, even on a very busy day. The shuttles are large and comfortable and frequent. Even if you already have a parks pass, you’ll need to stop at the visitor center to get your shuttle tickets.
The park is about 3000 feet, and even in early summer, it can be chilly. When packing up that morning in Devonport where it was 75 Fahrenheit, we had only thrown in our down jackets and hats as an afterthought. Thankfully. We wore all of it most the day. Beginning our hiking around 11am with the Dove Lake Circuit, one of the most popular hikes in the park. We followed that with a nice stretch of the Overland Track – most of which is on a raised platform. Next we enjoyed our picnic lunch and were just heading out to do a portion of the river gorge track, which wanders back down to the Visitor Center. But right then it started to rain…a nasty, misty, soaking rain, and we decided we had enough for the day, and headed back towards Devonport.
Beautiful Dove Lake, Cradle Mountain National Park
Bundled up but loving Cradle Mountain National Park
And We Didn’t See It All
There are a few things we did not squeeze into our visit. Despite the compact size of Tasmania, if you like nature, you’ll never run out of things to see and do. The people are so friendly, prices are good, roads are passable to all the places I mentioned here, and summer and fall provide comfortable temperatures. Spending the holidays here we observed how laid-back life is – even as Christmas approached. People are unpretentious, happy, and completely at home in this beautiful state.
We loved everything about our time in Australia, and Tasmania is a place we would love to return to again. If I can help you plan a visit to this remarkable place, let me know. Tasmania – Australia’s Island Paradise.
See last week’s post about Hobart Tasmania – Australia’s Most Surprising Town here. Be sure to come back NEXT FRIDAY for our ANNUAL TRAVEL AWARDS post – which incidentally has a lot of Australia in it too! You don’t want to miss it – always one of our top posts of the year.
Thank you for reading this week’s post Tasmania – Australia’s Island Paradise. We would really appreciate your shares, pins and comments to help our post get more views. Thank you.
Why Cuba? Why not! We spent ten days in this surprising country, learning about and loving on the people and culture. This was our third time using Intrepid Travel, and I am sure it won’t be our last. Cuba has long been on our bucket list. Many Americans have trepidation about visiting Cuba, generally based on media reports. But guess what? I felt safer in Cuba than I have in any part of Mexico, or in any of the African countries I have visited. Frankly I felt safer than in many American cities, especially lately. Let me tell you about Beautiful Cuba An Amazing Ten Days.
Welcome to Cuba
Almost like a movie set, but it’s real
Support for the Cuban People
As an American, visiting Cuba means declaring your intention for your trip is for Support for the Cuban People. What does this mean? This is an American requirement – one of four reasons you, as a US citizen, can visit Cuba. The others are family visits, educational activities or professional research which includes media. Over the years I have considered using the professional research category as a writer, but decided we would rather do a group tour with a Cuban guide. So that is how we came to book once again with Intrepid Travel. We were not disappointed. Through Intrepid we supported the Cuban people by only staying in privately owned Cuban Guesthouses and only eating at privately owned Cuban restaurants and shopping at privately owned Cuban stores and working with Cuban guides. Beautiful Cuba An Amazing Ten Days
With my Salsa instructor Malinda
Colonialism, Revolution and Today’s Cuba
The history of this island nation is vast and complicated – difficult to cover in a few paragraphs. But here is my synopsis;
Colonialism
From the arrival of Christopher Columbus in 1492, Cuba became a key colony in the Spanish Empire, valued for its strategic location and fertile land. Spanish rule reshaped the island through the near-destruction of Indigenous Taíno populations and the development of plantation agriculture of primarily sugar cane and tobacco. Large numbers of Africans were brought to the island as slaves to work these plantations. Havana grew into a major port linking the Americas and Europe, while wealth and power remained concentrated among colonial elites loyal to Spain. By the nineteenth century, economic dependence on sugar and slavery fueled social tensions and inspired independence movements. Finally formal independence from Spain came in 1898—though only after U.S. military intervention in the Spanish-American War.
Colonial era buildings are crumbling in Havana
Revolution
In the twentieth century, Cuba’s political trajectory was marked by strong U.S. influence, economic inequality, and authoritarian rule under leaders such as Fulgencio Batista. Although Batista began as a revolutionary, he quickly betrayed the people and became a dictator creating hardships for average Cubans, while creating wealth for the Spanish-descended elite and the US Mafia. These conditions led to the Cuban Revolution of 1959, which brought Fidel Castro to power.
Fidel Castro (Wikipedia)
Today
Castro transformed Cuba into a socialist state aligned with the Soviet Union. The revolution dramatically altered Cuban society through land reform, nationalization, and expanded education and healthcare. Though Castro curtailed political freedoms of average Cubans, most Cubans believe his policies of education and healthcare were good for the country. After the Soviet collapse, Cuba endured severe economic hardship yet maintained its socialist system, and today it continues to navigate gradual economic reforms (see below), strained relations with the United States, and ongoing debates about political change and national identity.
Revolution Square and the Presidential Offices
Western Cuba
During my ten day visit we covered a large portion of the western half of the island of Cuba. We did not venture east of Trinidad. See map. Cuba is about the same size of Switzerland and is the largest Caribbean island. Roughly 42,800 square miles, it is comparable in size to U.S. states like Virginia, slightly larger than Tennessee, and a bit bigger than Maine.
The area of Cuba our tour covered
Cuba is only 90 miles from Florida
Things to Know
We traveled in a nice bus (Chinese made) on mostly comfortable roads, although some of the mountain roads were a bit rough. We have seen much worse though in other countries. Four major issues we noticed as visitors;
1. Blackouts due to an aging infrastructure and lack of fuel due to embargoes. Some cities are completely left in the dark, and businesses, including guesthouses we stayed at, must resort to generators and solar but these are expensive and difficult to acquire.
2. Gas shortages – most people don’t own cars, but trucks, buses and cars are all facing a gas shortage which will get much worse with the situation in Venezuela. Cuba relies heavily on oil from Venezuela.
3. Lack of internet in much of the island. Even major cities like Havana have internet service that is plagued with outages and the country has no solutions currently in the works.
4. Finally and the most difficult is all transactions need to be made in cash. No American credit cards are accepted in Cuba. And your American ATM card will not work in Cuba, even if you can find a working ATM. You must bring US Dollars and exchange them in the country for Cuban Pesos. US dollars are accepted in Cuba, but they must be clean bills in perfect condition.
You must be prepared for these issues if you visit this island nation. It was all worth it though to experience Beautiful Cuba An Amazing Ten Days.
One of our favorite guesthouses in Vinales
Barack Obama and the Cuban Thaw
President Barack Obama made a historic visit to Cuba from March 20-22, 2016, becoming the first sitting U.S. president in 88 years to do so. His visit signaled a new era of normalized relations after decades of hostility. Obama’s visit included a visit with Cuban leader like Raul Castro, a televised address to the Cuban people, and a focus on human rights and ending the U.S. embargo. The trip marked the peak of the “Cuban thaw,” leading to increased travel, trade, and diplomatic engagement, though significant differences on human rights persisted. The Cubans have a great fondness for Obama.
Raul Castro and Barack Obama (Wikipedia)
Unfortunately this era did not last, embargoes have been reinstated and relationship between the current US Administration and Cuba are at one of the lowest points in decades. However, since Covid, more Cubans have been allowed to own private small businesses such as guesthouses and restaurants. These businesses are the ones American visitors are allowed to use as part of the Support of the Cuban People program.
Beautiful Cuba An Amazing Ten Days
My husband and I arrived in La Habana (the actual Cuban name of Havana) one day early just as a precaution for any unforeseen travel delays. We were able to book an extra night at the same privately owned guest house that the group would be staying. We enjoyed an amazing dinner with beer that evening for $8 USD.
Ancient fort at the Havana Harbor
Meeting our Intrepid guide the next day (Yummet) and the 12 other Americans on our tour, we knew we were in for a great tour. Our fellow intrepid travelers were fabulous, and as has been our experience with Intrepid in the past, our guide was fun, knowledgeable and on-point.
Most of our amazing group and our guide Yummet
Excellent Travel Partners on our third Intrepid tour
Havana
Highlights of Havana included UNESCO Old Town walking tour, four important squares of the colonial period including the Cathedral Square, Entertainment Square, San Francisco Square and Revolutionary Square. You can’t visit Havana without a driving tour in the beautiful and historic old cars of Havana (learn about these cars here). We toured the Callejon de Hamel where we learned about the local Afro Cuban community and the sub-culture of Santeria. Lunch was incredible at Rum Rum Restaurant – we skipped dinner because we were so full!
Callejon de Hamel
Cathedral Square
Callejon de Hamel
1940’s era Chevrolet
Definitely a show-stopper
Enjoyed our tour in the ’48 Chevy Convertible. Here we are in Revolution Square
Heading West
Into our comfortable bus with guide-extraordinaire Yummet and our incredible driver Marcos we go. Today we head west towards the darling town of Vinales, but first two stops along the way.
Fusterlandia is a tiny bit reminiscent of Park Guell in Barcelona, but not as artistically stunning
Fusterlandia quirky and fun
We made a brief stop at Fusterlandia just outside of Havana. This neighborhood is completely covered in mosaics, a passion project of artist Jose Fuster. Quirky but also fun. Next we drove several hours west to visit Las Terrasas, a UNESCO Biosphere village, built by the Cuban government as a reforestation project, inhabited by local Cubans caring for the land. We enjoyed a wonderful lunch here with a beautiful view.
Las Terrasas
What a view
Vinales
Arriving in Vinales we were enchanted by this cute, sparkling clean and colorful little village. Two nights here. Before dark we took a quick walking tour of the village then headed to Paradise Farm, a privately-owned farm-to-table restaurant where we enjoyed a spectacular dinner with a view.
Sunset at Paradise Farm overlooking the fields of beautiful fresh grown produce
Spectacular meal at Paradise Farm
Next day was a busy and fun one. Starting with a beautiful walk into the astonishing Valle de Vinales National Park with a local guide. Our walk took us to a privately owned coffee plantation where we learned about Cuban coffee then on to a privately owned Tobacco farm where we learned about growing and producing tobacco and the famous Cuban cigars.
Entering the National Park on foot
Of course the coffee was my favorite part
Getting a lesson on local coffee culture
Learning the fine art of Cigar rolling
Arne imbibing in fresh rolled cigar
Back on the bus to Mirador Balcon del Valle where we continued our agricultural theme of this beautiful valley with a cooking class using locally grown produce of sweet potatoes, yucca,cassava, papaya, guava, onion, garlic, and more. It was fresh, healthy and delicious, as was all the food we ate in Cuba. After that big meal we ended our visit to beautiful Vinales learning how to Salsa dance! Hot and sweaty and fun!
Loved our cooking class at Mirador Balcon de Valle
A first for us, Arne and I Salsa together.
Cienfuegos
From Vinales to Cienfuegos was our longest bus ride day. We were kept entertained onboard the bus with an incredible documentary series from Netflix about Cuban history. Fascinating and helpful. In the late afternoon we arrived the famous Bay of Pigs, site of the 1961 failed US invasion. Here we had an opportunity to swim in the Caribbean or just lounge on the beautiful beach before arriving in Cienfuegos and our lovely guest house for one night. In the morning before departing we had a walking tour of the beautiful colonial town of Cienfuegos with free time to shop, see the museum and have some fabulous coffee before departing on to Trinidad.
Bay of Pigs was stunning. I had never imaged it so beautiful.
Bay of Pigs – Beautiful Cuba An Amazing Ten Days
Cienfuegos town square and Cathedral. Beautiful Spanish Colonial town
Trinidad
Driving from Cienfuegos to Trinidad meant going over the Topes de Coyantes mountains, where we encountered the only poor road conditions of our tour. Our driver Marcos was amazing and we barely noticed. High in the mountains we stopped at a tiny privately-owned coffee growing roadside restaurant called Mileidy’s. Here we learned more about how the locals grow and process the local Arabica beans. We also enjoyed possibly the best, yet simple and locally sourced lunch. Adios to our new friends and then on to Trinidad.
From green to bean to coffee dream
Beans drying in the sun
We loved our beautiful privately-owned guesthouse in Trinidad, where we had the best WiFi of the entire trip. Right in the old town area of the beautiful Spanish Colonial town of Trinidad. We took a sunset stroll of the old town before enjoying the famous local drink of Canchanchara (yum) followed by dinner at Los Conspiradores.
Loved the rooftop terraces at our Trinidad Guesthouse
Sunset walk on our first night in Trinidad
Beautiful presentation of drinks and food in Trinidad
Famous Cuban cocktail called Canchanchara
Trinidad Day Two
Next morning our guide took us to two museums where we learned more Spanish Colonial history – the Architecture Museum and the Romantic Museum. We had some free time to shop for the beautiful local traditional Trinidad embroidery. I fell in love with it and bought several items. In the afternoon we headed for swim and sun at Ancon beach which included an incredible catered picnic lunch. That evening we were not hungry, so we watched the sunset from a rooftop bar and then enjoyed an early to bed.
Learning the Spanish Colonial Architecture history
Courtyard in historic colonial homes
The Cuban people are talented and resourceful. This embroidery style began when Sugar Cane plantations were abandoned and slaves needed to earn money
The water was warm and the sun was a nice break from touring
Fabulous catered lunch
Enjoying Sunset on the terrace of Rin Tin Tin Bar
Trinidad Sunset day two
Santa Clara
It’s our last full day in Cuba as we make our way back west towards Havana. We stop in Santa Clara to learn about Che Guevera. Ernesto “Che” Guevera is revered by many Cubans as a true Marxist revolutionary whose life was dedicated to overturning colonial and US intervention in Latin American countries. He was a brilliant but complicated man who is both revered and reviled depending on which camp you sit in. Because he died young at the hands of CIA-sponsored action in Bolivia, he has become a martyr and the Cuban government has built a small museum, which includes a mausoleum and statue in his memory. We visited this place in Santa Clara before continuing on to Havana.
Memorial to Che Guevera
Che Guevera
Farewell
Back in Havana our final night. We have become good friends with the group and our leaders and we are sad to say goodbye. Tonight though we celebrate with a show and dinner with the famous Buena Vista Social Club. Dinner was amazing but the show was the highlight – lively and interesting with lots of audience participation. Unfortunately not many photos of us actually on stage, you will have to take my word for it. 🙂
These two were incredible. I got to dance with this man and he was so amazing. But in case you are wondering…that’s not me dancing in this photo. LOL
Lobster is very common in Cuba, this one I had on our final night.
Buena Vista Social Club
It was midnight before we went to bed, and my alarm went off at 4:30am for our flight to Cancun. It was all worth it though. A remarkable ten days, learning about this country and removing some of the mystery and misconceptions. I loved its colorful culture, began to understand it’s difficult history and most of all learned to respect it’s resilient people. Beautiful Cuba An Amazing Ten Days.
As usual Intrepid Travel only hires the best – our guide Yummet and our Driver Marcos
Yes You Should
Step out of your box and come to Cuba. Intrepid Travel is a great way to experience a place unlike anywhere else I have ever been. And that is saying something. Put aside your fears and preconceived notions, because I can tell you, you will be pleasantly surprised. Educational, entertaining and safe. Delicious, colorful and enlightening. The culture is musical and bright. The people are talented and patriotic. Cuba is welcoming and fascinating. I have absolutely no regrets. Muchos Gracias Cuba. Viva la Cuba!
Havana full of surprises
See last week’s post, our Ninth Annual World Travel Awards 2025 here. I hope you will continue to follow us as we enjoy a month in Mexico with lots more travel blog posts on the way.
We are always grateful when you pin, share and comment on our posts to help us find even more of a audience of travel enthusiasts. Gracias.
This book. It’s more than thirty years old…but it’s as if it was written with today’s headlines in mind. Here is my book review Parable of the Sower by Octavia E. Butler.
2024
This book has had a resurgence recently, due to the fact that it was written 32 years ago, but placed in the year 2024. This dystopian story revolves around Lauren Olimina, and her life in a post-apocalyptic world on Earth in 2024.
This novel is on the banned books list in certain states, due to it’s powerful look at classism, racism and climate change. Butler has eerily predicted in this novel a hate filled United States in chaos and internal war.
Dystopian
Novels based on dystopian themes are nothing new, and in fact of late there have been many excellent ones (Cloud Cuckoo Land, Tomorrow and Tomorrow and Tomorrow, The Immortal King Rao, To Paradise, Station Eleven and many more) but this novel is unique. Unique in that it is 32 years old and predicts a world in 2024 that could easily be imagined. Although we have not fallen as low as it gets in Parable of the Sower, Butler makes us wonder.
Book Review Parable of the Sower by Octavia E. Butler
I am normally a BIG fan of Leif Enger and have read several of his books. But this one….I struggled with it despite wanting to love it. Here is my book review I Cheerfully Refuse by Leif Enger.
What is Happening?
I have read and loved many dystopian novels over the past few years, some of my favorites being Station Eleven, To Paradise and Cloud Cuckoo Land. Going into I Cheerfully Refuse I didn’t realize it was set in the not too distant future. It takes a long time in the story to really grasp it, at least it did for me. Hints are dropped here and there and eventually the understanding comes….
Dark Times
Enger introduces us to Lark and Rainy, a couple living in the not too distant, but much changed future. When Lark is murdered, Rainy finds himself on the run in a sailboat. As the reader is pulled into Enger’s beautiful story telling, we realize how crazy the world is, run by billionaires and astronauts, with massive and dangerous climate changes creating havoc. Food shortages are part of life, books are illegal and a rash of suicides occur regularly because no one wants to continue to suffer.
It’s not a happy book- a dystopian novel of despair and destruction mixed with love and longing. And so different than anything I have read by Enger. Maybe I just wasn’t up to it – feeling the gloom in our planet currently. You’ll need to decide for yourself. I give I Cheerfully Refuse four stars ****. Let me know what you think?
Thank you for reading my Book Review I Cheerfully Refuse by Leif Enger. See last week’s Book Review The Unmaking of June Farrow. We love it when you comment, pin and share our book reviews. Thank you.
As you likely know if you have been following all these years, I track my reading year from August to July. Nothing fancy, just keep a little tally in my notebook of all the books I read. This year I read 69 books, (11 fewer than last year) and today I will share with you some of my favorites, once again, for Sixth Annual Reading Round Up 2023.
Over the past year I have written 52 book reviews, pulling into reviews my favorites of the 69 books. Fifty of the 69 were read on my kindle, four were traditional books, while 15 were audible books we listened to on road trips or in the car while home in the USA. Some of my top books of the year were on Audible…a fantastic way to enjoy a book while driving.
So as in the past several years (see our year in review from 2022 and 2021) I’m sharing my most favorites in a Top Fifteen list, and a few honorable mentions too. Some outstanding novels, biographies, historical non-fiction, as well as Booker and Pulitzer winners. Other than the number one slot here, the books are in no particular order.
My favorite book of the year
My Top Fifteen
Here are my favorites from July 2022 to July 2023;
The Covenant of Water by Abraham Verghese One of the best books I have read in several years, Verghese is a brilliant man and writer and I will read anything he writes in the future. My favorite book hands down of this past year. Go Read This Book!
Lessons in Chemistry by Bonnie Garmus – powerful yet sentimental this story of a brilliant woman scientist in the “women stay home” 1950’s will make you life, cry and jump for joy. Soon to be a movie too I hear.
The Marriage Portrait by Maggie O’Farrell – O’Farrell has a magnificent talent to weave real historical characters into fictional historical novels so perfectly you will wonder if the story is biographical. A beautiful read.
To Paradise by Hanya Yanaghihara I believe in my book review of this book I used the phrase mind-boggling. Indeed it was. A spectacular achievement in fiction, difficult to explain, sometimes confounding, absolutely worth the effort. I loved it.
Demon Copperhead by Barbara Kingsolver – winner of the Pulitzer Prize for fiction 2023, this fantastic story of drug abuse, poverty and abandonment in Appalachian USA is deep and sometimes difficult to read. But read it anyway.
The Whalebone Theater by Joanna Quinn – set in England before and then during WWII, the changes in Quinn’s astonishing cast of characters through the book and the war will keep you turning every page. A deep story of the meaning of family.
Act of Oblivion by Robert Harris – I had never heard the historical fact that the killers of King Charles I in England escaped to New England. This part is true. What Harris does so eloquently in this book is imagine how the manhunt for these killers evolves over more than a decade. I really enjoyed it.
This is Happiness by Niall Williams – Sweet, heartfelt and identifiable. This is a story about that one great love. This is a story about life. It will make you smile, cry and remember your first love and past regrets. An unforgettable and well written story.
Becoming Duchess Goldblatt Author Anonymous – Before reading this great book I assumed it was a novel about a 17th century Duchess. LOL! Well you can’t judge a book by it’s cover as they say. This book is brilliant. Duchess Goldblatt is an anonymous Twitter character who gained a giant following for her uplifting yet hilarious posts about life’s ups and downs in this social media world.
Horse by Geraldine Brooks – Brooks has two books in my top 15 this year (see #14) and Horse is her most recent. She uses the human activity centered around a horse – a real horse from the past – to create this fictional story of racism through the centuries.
Booth by Karen Joy Fowler – what a tale of both fact and fiction of the infamous John Wilkes Booth and his family. The trials and tribulations of this family make a great story, long before anyone shoots Lincoln. Extreme poverty to wealth and prosperity are combined with unfathomable loss of of children and property, alcoholism and rivalry, illegitimate accusations, polygamy, ego, and family love and regret. This was a perfect Audible on a long road trip last summer.
The Night Ship by Jess Kidd – The real life wreck of the Dutch East Indies flagship Batavia in 1629 is the basis for this fictional novel. Wrecked near Beacon Island, the horrifying experience of the survivors of the Batavia is one of the most barbaric ever recorded. Kidd brilliantly chronicles the events in both fact and myth through the eyes of two small children in The Night Ship.
The Great Circle by Maggie Shipstead – A very long saga of a book about a female pilot in the early days of pilots and airplanes. Yes it is long…but I loved it. At first I thought it was about a real person; the character is fictional but comes to life under Shipstead’s genius
Year of Wonders by Geraldine Brooks – This is Brooks second appearance this year in my top 15. Loosely based on Eyram Derbyshire, a real village that had to quarantine itself during the black plague. Brooks creates a fictional village in 1666. When an infected bolt of fabric makes its way to the isolated village from London, the protagonist Anna’s life will change forever.
Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafron – Young Daniel and his father run an antique bookstore in Barcelona during a time when Spain and the city are reeling from war. Daniel has lost his mother, and in his grief he finds solace in a mysterious book but the search for the author will nearly kill him.
Local Author – The Whiskey Creek Water Company by Jan Walker – Walker, who lives in my local town, presented one of my favorites this year in a sweet and simple book about a tiny fictional village in the Pacific Northwest during the prohibition.
Humor – Guncle by Steven Rowley – Gay Uncle Patrick (Gup) also known to his niece and nephew as Guncle, finds his world turned upside down when a family tragedy back home in Connecticut has him caring for his niece and nephew all summer in Palm Springs. I fell in love with the characters and this family story.
Favorite Author – Delicious by Ruth Reichl- I have been a Reichl fan for years. Celebrated memoir author, food writer and former editor of Gourmet Magazine, her first novel is for foodies as well as anyone who has lost someone they love.
Favorite Author – The Museum of Extraordinary Things – I’m a big fan of Alice Hoffman, one of my all-time favorite books was The Dove Keepers a few years ago. And this novel is an earlier work of Hoffman. I suspect there is more Hoffman in my future.
Travel Through Reading
Two of my favorite things to do in the world are travel and read…and for the same reason. Both take you to unknown places, where you meet new people and encounter different ways of life. Both open your eyes to alternative ways of life, educate you and present new ways to think and see the world and beyond. Get out there and explore…books are the perfect way for ANYONE to do that. Just. Go. Read!
Thanks for reading this week’s Reading Wednesday post Sixth Annual Reading Round Up 2023.
What am I reading now? Sacred Hunger by Barry Unsworth (1992 Booker Prize)
Thanks for all your support again this year. We love it when you comment, pin and share our posts. It helps us gain followers and reach more book lovers!
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