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Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands

February 21, 2025

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Location: Rarotonga Cook Islands

Kia Orana! “Kia Orana” is a Cook Islands greeting that means “may you live long” or “may you have a long and fulfilling life”. It’s more than just a greeting, it’s a wish for a good future and a core part of Cook Islands culture. This is what you will find in this tiny island nation in the middle of the South Pacific. We came with no expectations, and went away blessed by the beauty and kindness that penetrates this island. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.

Why Rarotonga?

As we planned our travels for 2025 we knew we wanted to return to Australia – one of our favorite countries in the world. Visiting Australia during their summer, is perfect for leaving behind the dreary Northern hemisphere winters

So, it was a natural fit to spend some time in Hawaii, and then take the non-stop flight Hawaiian Air offers from Honolulu to Rarotonga every Saturday. Why not? We have the time, the flight is only five hours and though not cheap, it got us closer to Australia. Cook Islands here we come.

A Few Details

The Cook Islands uses the New Zealand dollar. ATM machines are available all over and most businesses accept credit cards as well. As of this writing the NZ dollar is .57 cents per one US dollar. Very good rate for Americans.

Snorkeling is a very popular activity on Rarotonga

Our cell provider Verizon does not include The Cook Islands in their international plan. Once on the island one option is purchase the Vodaphone hotspot service for WiFi. Most hotels do not offer a separate WiFi service. We paid $35NZ for five days/50G, up to three devices. Another option is to get a Vodaphone SIM or Esim at the airport. We did the Vodaphone hotspot option, which worked pretty well as there are hotspots all around the island. However, during a big storm we had, the Wifi was unavailable.

Lots of sunshine and rain creates a lush island setting

You can rent cars; we did not, and scooter rentals are also popular. We just used the bus. Taxi service is also available but no Uber.

How to get here – Air New Zealand (via Auckland) is an option, but for Americans it’s much easier to fly to Honolulu and then take Hawaiian Air which has a weekly flight on Saturday and a return flight on Sunday evening. JetStar flies direct from Sydney.

We arrived on Hawaiian and departed on JetStar

No Expectations

As we do in much of our travel, we arrived Rarotonga with no expectations. We knew it was a small island but we knew little else. The island is volcanic, with an area of 67.39 km² (26.02 sq mi), and is home to almost 75% of the country’s population, with 10,898 of a total population of 15,040. On our arrival we found spectacular beauty untainted by mass tourism; friendly, welcoming, and kind local people, tropical weather (both sun and rain), delicious food and a distinct faith-based culture and customs. As we read prior to arrival, the island felt much like Hawaii likely did 50-75 years ago. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.

What to Do?

Don’t come to Rarotonga if you expect to be wined and dined in fancy settings, or stay in large upscale American brand resorts or have world class shopping. It is not that kind of place. There are activities on the island if you are a diver or want to snorkel with turtles and rays and learn about the local sea life. Many whales come here in season. You will also find some hiking options, bird watching and cycling tours. There is a tiny bit of shopping, particularly if you are in the market for the local black pearl. We chose to do a whole lot of nothing, during our one week visit. We can however wholeheartedly recommend the following;

Palm Grove Resort – we are so grateful we stumbled into the Palm Grove Resort. Perfect location with beach and pool. Beach-front and pool-front bungalows, as well as some larger options too. We loved our little bungalow poolside. We enjoyed the free snorkel gear and kayaks and dined on absolutely delicious meals and breakfast (included in the price) at the Yellow Hibiscus restaurant. But best of all was the kind staff and excellent service – always with a smile and a Kia Orana. For our poolside Bungalow we paid $165 USD per night.

Our bungalow perfect for two people, bigger options available

Cook Islands Bus – on time and comfortable. We used the Cook Islands bus several times during our visit. One bus goes clockwise the other counterclockwise. One price $5NZ no matter how far you are going – unless you buy a ticket packet of ten for $3.50NZ each.

Fun Stuff

Hike to Waterfall and Needle – Te Rua Manga or the Needle is a rocky spire in the Rarotonga mountains. It rises to an elevation of 413 metres above sea level. The spire itself is a breccia structure. There is a walking track to the base of the spire. This hike is not for novice hikers, but will certainly give you a 360 degree view. There are guides who can take you. We saw new to us birds and wonderful flora.

Titikaveka, Rarotonga – Voted as one of the top 25 beaches in the South Pacific by Trip Advisor, Titikaveka features bright turquoise blue water and white sandy beaches shaded by palm trees. We enjoyed the access to this beach from Palm Grove.

Highland Paradise – at the recommendation of the staff at Palm Grove, we spent an evening with Highland Paradise. We really enjoyed the food and the beautiful grounds, but more than anything we enjoyed learning so much about the local culture, dance, history and people of the Cook Islands. I highly recommend it.

Dancers were so fun at Highland Paradise

Local Outdoor Markets

Muri Beach Night Market -The Muri night markets in the Muri Beach Village are a great way to curate your own dinner from the various food trucks, stalls and stands all while mixing and mingling with tourists and locals alike. Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings from 5pm, the night markets offer a variety of food from local BBQ meals, seafood, fresh drinking coconuts, chicken curries, wok-fried noodles, pizza, desserts and more.

Muri Beach Night Food Market Three nights a week

Punanga Nui Market – The Punanga Nui Market in Avarua, Rarotonga’s main town, offers free entertainment, fresh food stalls, organic coffee, and authentic souvenirs like pearls, artwork, crafts and hats made of coconut frond. While the market is open until midday, early Saturday morning is the best time to go for locally grown fruits and vegetables as well as homemade treats like poke. Also, make sure to head over to the main stage from about 10am to enjoy live music and dancing.

Learn History

Te Ara Cook Islands Cultural Museum was a great activity on a rainy day. We really enjoyed learning some of the cultural history of the island both from before European’s arrived and everything since. I highly recommend spending an our or so here, and you can’t beat the $5NZ price. A nice little cafe too.

Where to Eat

Even though our darling bungalow at Palm Grove had a kitchen, and the Palm Grove is conveniently located near one of the larger grocery stores (Wigmores), we decided not to cook our dinners since we were on the island for only a week. Instead we found our way to several popular local eateries including;

The Yellow Hibiscus – Part of the Palm Grove Resort, we ate here three separate nights. On Sunday nights they offer their weekly BBQ for $45NZ. It was an outstanding value. The other dinners we had were delicious, with huge servings and good prices. Friday night is Happy Hour night.

The Tamarind House Restaurant and Ukelele Bar – we took the bus to Avarua just to see the town, which frankly doesn’t have a lot to offer, but we walked around, had a beer at Trader Jack’s, and then headed on to dinner at The Tamarind House. Absolutely beautiful view and we enjoyed our dinner of Ika Mata and Nicoise Salad with fresh Ahi.

Viama a short walk from Palm Grove we enjoyed a lovely dinner on Valentines Day here. With our toes in the sand we enjoyed fresh Ika Mata (also known as Poisson Cru), Fish, Steak and a great Sticky Toffee Pudding for Desert.

Charlies Bar and Grill – we heard great things about this beach side bar and chose to have lunch here on our final day on the island. Lunch starts at noon, but if you come for dinner call ahead for a reservation. The view is great, portions are huge and the food delicious. Order at the window and they bring the food to you.

Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands

Come to the Cook Islands to escape the winter weather back home. We met so many Canadians and Europeans in search of sun. Come to the Cook Islands to relax and find a peaceful paradise to read, relax, and swim with a few exhilarating possibilities thrown in. Come to the Cook Islands for amazing seafood, fresh produce and fruit – all served up with a smile. And come to the Cook Islands for Kia Orana – the blessing of the beautiful people and the fascinating culture they hold dear. For all of these reasons and more – come to the Cook Islands. We will be back.

Learn more at Cook Islands.

Thank you for reading my post Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands. See last week’s post Maui Best Restaurants 2025 and be sure not to miss our year end travel awards – Eighth Annual Travel Awards 2024.

Next stop Australia!

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Maui Best Restaurants 2025

Updated For 2025

February 14, 2025

Laureen

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Location: Maui Hawaii USA

I’ve been to Maui more times than I can count and it is one of my favorite places in the world. But like everything else affected by the PanDamit, Maui lost some restaurants (including one of my favs) while others struggle to keep their doors open. Even worse, the Lahaina fires 18 months ago devastated that historic city and all it’s restaurants in the old town area. And yet still, this island is home to some amazing dining from take-out to romantic and every cuisine you can want. I have not eaten at EVERY Maui restaurant, but I feel qualified to recommend quite a few. So here they are – Maui Best Restaurants 2025 by My Fab Fifties Life.

In No Particular Order

The Sea House – Napili – Beautiful view ocean side at the iconic Napili Kai Resort. Fresh fish and always delicious. One of my top restaurants on the island. Reservations a must.

A ‘a Roots – Napili – Vegan tiny restaurant in Napili Plaza, farm to table, locally sourced and so delicious.

Star Noodle – Lahaina – One of my top favorite restaurant in Maui. Always perfect, outdoor ocean side dining in an updated location since the fires. Creative menu and excellent service. Reservations recommended.

Mala Ocean Tavern – Lahaina – Great seafood, clever cocktails, ocean side dining. Reservations recommended.

The Fish Market – Kaanapali – purchase fresh fish and poke here to take home or order up fresh prepared fish tacos, mahi mahi and so much more. Delicious and worth the wait. Take out.

Monkey Pod Kitchen – Kaanapali and Wailea – by the owners of Merriman’s (see below) a more casual restaurant for salads, burgers, fish and a great Mai Tai.

The Pint & Cork – Wailea – not your usual Maui vibe, this gastropub is a great place if you want a burger and a beer. Great service and reasonable prices.

Moose McGillicuddy’s – Kihei. Sports Bar upstairs with great burgers, fish and chips, salads and more. Also downstairs (same kitchen) is Fred’s Mexican open for breakfast too.

Some Casual Options

Paia Fish Market – Paia, Kihei – choose your fish and how you want it prepared. Always fresh but expect a wait.

Sugar Beach Bake Shop – Kihei – come for the malasadas. Hands down the best on the island. Other yummy stuff too.

Cafe O’Lei – Kihei and other locations – a wide variety of family and budget friendly fish, burgers salads and more.

Kihei Cafe – One of Kihei’s most popular breakfast spots now has two locations, expect a wait but not too long, they get people in and out. Try the banana pancakes, loco moco or eggs bene.

Coconut’s Fish Cafe – Kihei – Fish tacos, salads and more at a reasonable family friendly price. Choose your fish and your preparation preference. Always fresh.

Something For Everyone

Three’s Bar and Grill – Kihei – Casual and clever menu with both indoor and outdoor seating and a great Happy Hour menu. Try the brussel sprouts. I’m not kidding, they are amazing.

Maui Brewing – Kihei and Kaanapali- Pizza, fish tacos, burgers and a delicious kale salad…and of course beer.

Roasted Chiles Mexican – Kihei – Only Mexican restaurant I can recommend on Maui…delicious and authentic, locally owned and family run. If you need a taco fix while in Kihei this is the place.

Miso Phat – Kihei and Kaanapali – Delicious sushi and a great variety. Easy to order on line, pick up and enjoy at the beach.

Kula Lodge – Kula – recently purchased by long time Maui restaurateur Simon Vojdani and owners of the 5 Palms Restaurant formerly in Kihei. The 5 Palms is now be part of the beautiful property at the Kula Lodge. We enjoyed the Happy Hour…but dinner is also recommended… you can’t beat the view here!

Ohana Seafood Bar and Grill – Kihei – We went for the sushi but the day we went the Sushi Chef must have been off…bummer. But the menu has many other options from burgers to poke, tacos to calamari. The calamari was delicious..

Manioli Pizza – Wailea – This place has a small menu but a lovely view. Several pizza options and just a couple pasta options but all very good. I really liked my chicken piccata. Budget friendly and family friendly too.

Kohola Brewing – rising from the ashes, Kohola lost everything in the Lahaina fire and yet they are here and so good. Now brewing on the Big Island their new tasting room in Wailea includes a small but excellent food selection. We like it so much we visited twice.

Some of the BEST on the Island

Morimoto – Wailea – the most beautifully presented sushi I have ever had. And the ambiance is amazing at the stunning Andaz Resort in Wailea. For a special occasion or any day, just go. Great to watch the sunset too. We always come back for this one.

Ka’ana Kitchen – Wailea – We had an outstanding meal with a view at Ka’ana. Whatever you do don’t miss the watermelon salad. Everything else is good too. Also located at the Andaz.

Mama’s Fish House – Paia – Maui’s finest restaurant in food, ambiance and service. Incomparable. Reservations hard to get but give it a try. Time honored and authentic, Mama’s will always fall on my Maui Best Restaurants 2025 list.

Hali’imaile General Store – Upcountry -One of the islands best restaurants located in a historic building in upcountry, the menu is fresh but not pretentious…just delicious and local. This last trip we chose to dine here on our final night as a celebration of Maui Best Restaurants 2025.

Merriman’s – Kapalua One of the best meals I have had in years, the impeccable Merrimans is where we celebrated our wedding anniversary. Amazing Prix Fixe menu for $120 per person was worth every penny. Fantastic and special place when in Maui.

Unpretentious and Deliciouis

Sam Sato – Wailuku – few tourists come here, but locals know about this amazing noodle shop in Wailuku. I love the Dry Noodles and the Chow Fun. Great kimchee too.

The Pour House – Kapalua – no view but the ambiance is lovely and the food is divine. If you want a break from fish and Hawaiian food make a reservation at this phenomenal Italian bistro. Be sure to try the handmade fresh burrata.

Pita Paradise Wailea – A hidden gem in Wailea. This name though…it sounds like a fast food place. It is not. A lovely menu of Mediterranean dishes with daily specials. I loved my local Mong Chong grilled fish with fresh vegetables in an aioli sauce. My husband had delectable lamb gnocchi. Definitely come here. Make a reservation during peak season.

Saigon Cafe Wailuku – This hidden gem has been going strong since 1995…highly unusual in this day and age. But that says something about the food. We hadn’t been here in years, but made our way back up this last visit and I am so glad we did. Authentic and delicious SE Asia cuisine.

Take Out and Food Trucks Are Big Biz

There are many food trucks on the island, but I haven’t visited them all. But if you are interested in take out options check the YouTube video we did in 2020 Tasty Tuesday Maui Take Out Food. Our visit in January this year introduced us to a brand new food truck site South Maui Gardens. We really loved it and it’s beautifully hidden gem of a location. Check out their website to learn about live music, hula shows and much more at South Maui Gardens.

Feel free to share in the comments any other Maui restaurants you love. And I’ll take your recommendations and visit those restaurants when I return to Maui in the future. I still have several I need to visit so let me know your favorites!! Mahalo! Thank you for reading my post Maui Best Restaurants 2025.

See last week’s post Maui on a Budget and hope you didn’t miss our Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024. We are headed next to the Cook Islands – stay tuned for more about that next week!

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Inspire -- Island Life

Maui On a Budget

February 7, 2025

Laureen

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Maui might be a once in a lifetime trip for you. If it is, you hopefully can afford to do some of the most amazing activities the island offers. But plan well in advance and be ready to spend a pretty penny. It is one of the most expensive destinations in the world. So here are some tips if you want to enjoy Maui on a Budget.

I have been lucky enough to visit Maui many times, and have enjoyed the Luaus, whale watching, snorkeling and some amazing first class meals.

But during our most recent visit, we made a big effort to lay-low and spend less. Sticking to our pre-designed budget is important in our travels, otherwise we can not continue to travel as we do. On our recent visit to Maui there were some new activities we considered, from cooking classes to glass blowing to chocolate tours. But, we chose to do Maui on a Budget. And you can too.

It won’t be easy, but there are ways to enjoy Maui on a Budget. And through the years I have discovered several things you can do to save money. Hopefully, some of these suggestions will give you a positive visit to this beautiful island paradise without breaking the bank. So here are our suggestions for Maui on a Budget.

When to Come

Choose to visit the island during the off-season and absolutely don’t come over the Christmas holidays. June-October is a great time to visit and the island is quieter and you will have a wide choice of accommodations.

Where to Stay

There are many, many condos available for rent and you will find it less expensive to stay in a condo than in a resort. By renting a condo rather than a hotel you can cook most of your meals and not blow your budget on eating out. Condos usually offer great pools and barbecue area for guest use.

Groceries

If you have a Costco membership use it. Although the Maui Costco can be very busy, you can really save money by shopping there. We did price comparison on cases of beer and it was astonishing. Gas at the Maui Costco is also much less.

We also found prices at Foodland and Times grocery stores were less than Safeway. I always bring a few things from home such as a small amount of spices, coffee, rice. If you have the room, try to bring things that are portable and you know you use regularly.

Rental Car

It’s pretty hard to visit Maui without a rental car. Unless you are only staying for a couple of days I highly recommend you get a car. But there are several rental agencies on the island renting older model cars for much less. We have used Kihei Rent a Car several times. The cars we have rented are Nissan, about ten years old, run great and get us where we need to be. About $34 a day this last visit as compared to $99 – $149 at the more well-known brand name rental agencies. There are some other budget friendly rental car agencies on the island too. Do your research.

Dining Out

Dining out in Maui is pretty expensive. That’s why we mostly cook in our condo. It is less expensive to visit some of the restaurants where the locals go…I recommend Sam Satos and Saigon Cafe. Another really great way to save money dining out while getting to enjoy some of Maui’s best restaurants is to go to Happy Hour. Many restaurants have a daily Happy Hour and you can get a reduced menu but the same great food for much less money. For instance, we enjoy Three’s Bar and Grill in Kihei for their happy hour food menu and their Mai Tai, normally $14 is 6.25 during Happy Hour. You can get a comprehensive list here Maui Happy Hours.

Consider eating at some of the local food truck villages that have popped up around the island over the past few years. Maui has tons of food truck options now including in Kihei, Kaanapali, Wailuku, Kahalui and more. One of my favorite new food truck little gem is South Maui Gardens. Read this for more for ideas.

Equipment

Before you spend $60 at Costco to buy a beach chair, double check with your condo to see if they have chairs available. Many condos have chairs, snorkel gear and even boogie boards available for their guests.

Keep your eyes out for locals selling used gear along the roadside.

Snorkeling

The beaches are free of course (did you know every beach in the state of Hawaii is a public beach) and many beaches are great for snorkeling. You don’t need to pay for an expensive tour to Molokini to see beautiful fish and coral. Check out this list here. Snorkel gear can be a carry on item if you pack it properly, saving you rental fees on the island. Check with your carrier for more information.

Whale Watching

Now you won’t get up close and personal, but from December – March you can whale watch right from the beach. There are 10,000 humpback whales that visit the waters between Maui, Lanai and Molokai every winter. With so many whales it’s not difficult to see them from the beach or from the look out point located on the Honoapi’ilani highway between Kihei and Lahaina.

Nature

Be sure to visit two nature preserves in South Maui that are free to visit. The Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge offers a walk through brackish area to view many of Maui’s most interesting birds. Access is from the Pi’ilani Highway ( also called the Maui Veterans Highway) and it is free.

Another part of this nature reserve is the Kealia Coastal Boardwalk, access this from the North Kihei Road. This is a great one for kids because it includes colorful and interesting interpretive signage and is an easy walk. Also free.

The ponds at Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge

Hiking

Hiking is free and there are some wonderful hikes on Maui. Check out our post Six Great Hikes on the Island of Maui. A Maui hike also affords you the opportunity to bird watch, whale watch and enjoy the local flora of this island. Some hikes also have historic and sacred sites – be culturally aware and respectful and learn about the heritage and history of the Hawaiian people. By the way, if you are a Senior and have an America the Beautiful National Park Pass be sure not to leave it at home. The pass will save you the $30 entry fee into Haleakala National Park.

Hula Shows

Luau’s are expensive, and when you are trying to do Maui on a Budget they are out of the question. But if you want to see a free hula show during your visit, there are several places that offer shows at different times depending on the time of year. Lahaina Cannery Mall, Maui Mall, Whaler’s Village, Four Seasons Resort Wailea and Kaanapali Beach Hotel all have shows sponsored by Hawaiian Airlines. See the schedule here.

If you are in South Maui, the Shops at Wailea do a wonderful free hula show with great live music every Tuesday from 5:30-6:30. This show is popular but there is a large area to sit on the ground or on a few chairs provided. Definitely worth it.

Another option is the Hula show held weekly at South Maui Gardens. This show costs $100 but it is full professional show with music. It does not include the luau food, just the show. It’s very popular and sells out in high-season so reserve ahead of time. Learn more at South Maui Gardens.

Golf

If you want to golf on Maui but can’t swallow the high prices, check out the Waiehu Municipal Course. Gorgeous views for a fraction of the cost.

Since we always stay in Kihei, we bring our clubs and golf 2-3 times a week at Maui Nui. If you plan to golf more than three times, it pays to buy the Maui Nui Players Program Card. Maui Nui has been extensive improvements over the past few years and we really enjoy it.

Other Cool Stuff

Visit Ho’okipa to watch the surfers….its absolutely remarkable and its free. While you are there you will probably also see turtles. This is the beach you can almost always be guaranteed to see turtles hauled up and sunning themselves on the beach. We have also seen the Hawaiian Monk Seal sleeping on the beach here. A rare treat. Remember…the seal and the turtles are protected…stay back and enjoy from a distance.

A lot of people try to go to Haleakala for sunrise. I admit it’s a cool thing to do, but reservations are now required. Sunset is easier and free and you can view it from much of the island. There are dozens of places to watch the sunset from Makenna to Kapalua, for free.

Give Back

Whether you are on a budget or not, consider giving back to the people of Maui. Many people suffered greatly during the recent Lahaina fires, and during Covid prior to that. Every time we visit Maui we make a cash donation to the Maui Food Bank. Thanks for considering it.

Maui on a Budget

Yes you can do Maui on a Budget with a little frugal planning. It’s worth it to enjoy this island paradise, even if you are watching your pennies. Maui No Ka Oi!

Thanks for reading Maui on a Budget. We love it when you pin, comment and share our blog posts. Mahalo.

See last week’s post Six Great Hikes on the Island of Maui and don’t miss our Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024 post.

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review The Life Impossible by Matt Haig

December 11, 2024

Laureen

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I really enjoyed Matt Haig’s novel The Midnight Library, so I was excited to see he had a new book. Wow. I loved this one even more. Here is my book review The Life Impossible by Matt Haig.

Boring

Grace Winters leads a self-proclaimed boring life in England as a 72-year-old retired teacher and widow. Trying to find her place in this new world of widowhood, Grace also continues to mourn the loss of her young son decades ago. Grace is lost in grief and middle age misery.

A Voice From the Past

Grace receives an email from a former student, a cry for help, someone who has admired her. Someone who remembers her kindness to him as a child. Someone who is looking for his own reasons to go forward…or not. Grace’s response to her student Maurice will be the entire novel – in all it’s beautifully written language, incredibly developed characters, fantastical magic and mystery…and a tropical paradise too.

Ibiza

Grace finds herself stunned when she receives a letter explaining that a long-lost colleague has left Grace a home on the island of Ibiza – a small Mediterranean island off the coast of Spain. Why would this women whom Grace has not spoken to in years do such a thing? The letter is vague, but intriguing. But in a move completely out of character for this aging women, Grace books a flight and finds herself on the way to Ibiza.

Unexpected Adventure

As Grace searches for answers about the disappearance of her friend and why the ramshackle seaside cottage was left to Grace, she will encounter adventures and mysteries to last a lifetime. Grace’s logical mind will be forced to consider paranormal mysteries, accept unusual and somewhat comedic locals like Alberto. And as the adventures continue a sinister plot unfolds (of course it does) when a money grabbing developer is trying to take control of a pristine piece of the island. Who is this villain?

It all comes together in the end, a fun and lively story I could not put down. High praise for Matt Haig and this lovely character of Grace Winters he has given us.

Five stars for The Life Impossible by Matt Haig. One of my favorite reads so far this year. See last week’s book review The Horse by Willy Vlautin. Thank you for reading my book review The Life Impossible by Matt Haig. Please share and comment!

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At Home -- North America Travel

My Favorite Hike in Washington State

Tolmie Peak Mount Rainier National Park

August 9, 2024

Laureen

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I’m doubly blessed to be able to travel around the world, and yet spend my summers in the glorious Pacific Northwest. There is no place like it in the summer. Born and raised here, I took it for granted for most of my life. Only with maturity have I embraced and celebrated it’s unique beauty. My husband and I started hiking regularly during Covid…after setting it aside for years. Once we got started again we set out to discover and rediscover the best hikes in the region. And thanks to my friend Julie, I found my favorite hike in Washington State – Tolmie Peak in Mount Rainier National Park.

Mount Rainier National Park

We did a lot of hiking when I was a child, most of it in the Olympic National Park area close to our home on the Kitsap Peninsula. I still have a home on the Kitsap Peninsula, and we hike often in the Olympic Peninsula. But Mount Rainier is only a couple of hours away, and the Tolmie Peak hike is entered via the Carbon River entrance, so you don’t need to worry about the new reservation system at Paradise or Sunrise.

Eunice Lake below and Rainier to the South

Mount Rainier National Park has an abundance of hikes for the novice to the expert. From day hikes to multi-day treks whatever you desire it’s here. Tolmie is perfect for anyone with a little bit of hiking experience looking for a spectacular view. Round trip its about 5.5 miles with a 1500 foot elevation gain. The trail is well cared for and you’ll be accompanied by lots of other nature lovers. Weekdays are generally not too busy so try not to go on a weekend in the summer. The trail usually opens shortly after the 4th of July and stays open until late September.

Why I Love Tolmie

This is a hike I feel confident doing solo. I feel safe and I know it’s within my skill level. It’s easy to decide to stop at Eunice Lake, especially when you look up to the peak. It can look daunting. But in reality, the portion of the hike that puts you out at Eunice Lake is much more difficult than the next mile up to the peak. Whatever you do, don’t give up at Eunice Lake. Finish the trek and you will not regret it when you see the view. The last time I hiked to Tolmie it was a crystal clear day and not only did I enjoy the Rainier view but I had the clearest view of Mount Saint Helens I have ever seen from the peak. It’s also easy to see Mount Baker to the north.

What You Need to Know

To get to Tolmie drive towards Enumclaw through Bonney Lake. Just before reaching Buckley, go right on Mundy Loss Road. Follow Highway 165 to the historic coal mining villages of Wilkeson and Carbonado. From Carbonado it’s 4 miles to where the pavement ends. Here you will follow a gravel road another 11 miles. It usually takes 35-45 minutes depending on the traffic. Don’t bother washing your car the day before this drive.

When you reach Mowich Lake, you can park near the campground or on the gravel road. Access the trail either at the campground or off the gravel road where a sign marks the trail. The first part of the trail runs along the beautiful blue Mowich Lake before heading off into the wilderness for two miles to Eunice Lake. Another mile up to the peak.

There is another hike out of the Mowich Campground called Spray Park. Also very beautiful especially when the wildflowers are peaking.

What to Bring

Be sure to bring sunscreen, mosquito repellent, a hat and lots of water. I always eat my lunch at the top before meandering back down to the car. Take your time; there is spectacular bird watching along the trail. Last summer I saw a bear eating berries about 50 yards off the trail in a meadow.

Be sure to pack out everything you bring in. There are no public facilities on the trail.

You will need a National Park Pass. If you don’t have an annual pass you can get a pass in a self-pay station at Paul’s Peak shortly before arriving at Mowich Lake.

My Favorite Hike in Washington State

We have hiked a lot over the decades and there is just something about this hike that makes my heart sing. There is no better view in the world – and I have seen a lot of the world. Mount Rainier is my Queen, my Church, my Goddess. She is inspiring. I hope you will do this hike on a sunny day and see why I love it so very much.

Thanks for reading my post My Favorite Hike in Washington State – Tolmie Peak Mount Rainier National Park. We love it when you pin, share and comment on our blog posts. Thank you.

Be sure and see last week’s post Tracking Trolls in the Pacific Northwest.

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Become a World Traveler -- Inspire

My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World

June 21, 2024

Laureen

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I’ve been truly blessed with some astonishing wildlife encounters over the past eight years in our world travels. This past year has been particularly memorable, and I thought it would be good time to pull together a post about My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World. I hope you enjoy it.

My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World

When we started the Grand Adventure Travel Life, I didn’t really set out to discover incredible wildlife. It quickly became apparent however, that fascinating, new-to-us wildlife was going to be a big part of our travels. Wildlife in the jungles, forests and savannas. Birds in the air. Fish and mammals in the sea. Even insects, reptiles and crustaceans became a new fascination for these old folks – always ready to learn something new.

Elephant Family Etosha National Park Namibia

The wildlife encounters listed below are by no means the only ones…but they are some of my favorites. Some of these moments simply took my breath away. Gave me pause. Held me in rapture at nature in all her glory.

Australia

Australia. Oh my God. The land of never ending surprises. Of course there are kangaroos, wallabies and koala. There are also immense collections of bird life, reptiles and bugs. There are so many animals in the wild, and in fact it’s astonishing how many kangaroo get hit by cars. Australia blew our mind – and we are planning to return for our third visit in 2025.

Mama Roo and Joey, Booderee National Park, Australia

Namibia

When we first started talking about Namibia, I wasn’t even sure where it was (just north of South Africa). Our ten day tour in Namibia is still one of our favorite travel experiences. The elephant image below, is in my mind, the best photo I ever took. It was easy though…so much beauty everywhere we turned.

Sunset Elephant, Etosha National Park Namibia

Uganda

To celebrate my 60th birthday we splurged on a Mountain Gorilla Trek in Uganda. Life changing. If you can make this happen once in your life, do it.

Philippines

I’ve told this story before about how when I was a child we had a picture book with a tarsier on the glossy cover. I was terrified of that animal. Seeing it in the wild in Philippines was one of the most amazing things I have ever done. Tiny and harmless, I love these animals so much. We also had one of our best snorkel days in the Philippines…swimming with millions of sardines.

Snorkleing at Ningaloo Reef Panglao Philippines

Madagascar

Our most recent wildlife adventure was a ten-day private tour in Madagascar. I was mostly looking forward to seeing the baobab trees, and was hoping we would see a few lemurs. Oh my goodness. Lemurs and so much more. It was an absolute joy and I am so glad we did this tour.

Fascinating chameleons all over Madagascar

Botswana

Botswana was a quick visit while also visiting Victoria Falls in Zambia/Zimbabwe. But our brief visit afforded us some fabulous wild life encounters including lots of hippopotamus in the Zambezi River.

Curious giraffe, Chobi National Park Botswana

The hippopotamus is one of the most dangerous animals in the world

Papua New Guinea

I did not take this photo (Thank you Canva), but seeing the Bird of Paradise in Papua New Guinea was a dream come true. In fact, we saw several different species of Bird of Paradise, as well as multiple other very special and beautiful birds. Astounding.

Sri Lanka

We loved our visit to Sri Lanka, a country many people overlook. We started our three week visit with a six day tour, that included a visit to Yala National Park. Yala is home to a giant population of Asian Elephants. It was the most elephants in one place I had ever seen. We also had a wonderful up close and personal encounter with a beautiful and camouflaged leopard.

Asian elephant, Yala National Park Sri Lanka

Borneo/Malaysia

I had always wanted to see the Orangutans, and so when we decided to spend a couple of months in Malaysia, I began to research how to spend a few days on the island of Borneo and visit the Sepilok Reserve. We did this four day visit without a tour guide, it was very easy to do. We loved the Sepilok Forest Edge Lodge and the fact we could walk to the Orangatan Reserve. AND seeing the incredible Proboscis Monkeys was an added bonus!

This orangutan just mosied past me on the walkway!

Funny looking and beautiful too – Proboscis Monkey

Costa Rica

Our three week visit to Costa Rica with our dear friends was one of the most memorable trips we have made. Not only did we get to see sloths for the first time, the turtles and bird life was spectacular.

Honduras

We spent six weeks on the island of Roatan Honduras and I would definitely go back. There are several reserves set up on the island to protect and conserve remaining wildlife. I think our favorite moments though were spotting beautiful Red Macaws right near our condo and the giant and docile iguana

The biggest iguana I have ever seen, Roatan Honduras

Iceland

We came for the scenery and the midnight sun, and we were not disappointed. Wildlife was a bonus and our favorite things were the wild reindeer and the beautiful puffins. I did not take this puffin photo (Thank you Canva), we were not this close, but Iceland did not disappoint and I encourage everyone to visit that incredible country.

New Zealand

We loved our seven week visit to New Zealand, although we loved it mostly for the beauty, scenery and hiking. We did not encounter much wildlife on this trip, but at the very end of our visit we stumbled on a biologist tagging Kiwi birds. Kiwi are incredibly shy and are rarely seen by visitors or locals. So to be able to meet this beautiful bird before she was released back into the brush was very special.

Galapagos/Ecuador

Although this trip was before we launched the Grand Adventure, our week touring the Galapagos Islands for my fiftieth birthday is one of our favorite memories of our travel life. Teeming with fascinating animals and bird life, it’s a memorable and once in a lifetime destination. Just go.

Galapagos land Iguana – he smiled at me!

Male Frigate bird showing off, Galapagos

USA

Of course, since I am an American, I have had many opportunities to see wildlife in my own big country. Montana is a favorite, Hawaii too, New England as well as my own great state of Washington where I spend my summers.

Monk Seals are also protected in Hawaii – stay clear

Young Grizzly, Glacier National Park Montana

There is More

There is more…but I think these I’ve listed here remain some of my all time favorites. And I’m not done yet…we have lots more travel in our future, as we explore and show reverence to Mother Nature and the fascinating wildlife of our planet.

My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World

Nature teaches us so much about the fragility of our world, and careful, sustainable travel provides so many opportunities to understand nature better. I have been so incredibly blessed to have had so many amazing up close and personal wildlife experiences – My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World.

See last week’s post A Day Trip to Bratislava Slovakia.

We love it when you comment, pin, and share our blog posts. Thanks and talk to you again soon.

NOTE : With this blog post I end year eight of our Grand Adventure. I will be taking several weeks, possibly a couple months, off from posting new blog material. We have fall travel planned, I’ll be back before that, but in the meantime, I want to be present here in the USA with my family. Thanks for your continued support – I’ll be back…

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Europe Travel

A Visit to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia

May 17, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia

What a pleasant surprise. A beautiful spot on a beautiful lake. North Macedonia is not on many American’s radars as a destination. Most of its visitors are coming from Europe. But this emerging destination deserves consideration. Our visit was brief, but I’m so glad we came. Here are my thoughts on A Visit to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia.

North Macedonia

What’s in a name? Well the people of North Macedonia have a lot to say about the name of their country. Macedonia is a regional name for a large region of the Balkans that today makes up northern Greece and the current North Macedonia.

Since antiquity the name has been used to identify both the region and the people. When today’s North Macedonia broke free of Yugoslavia in 1991 the name dispute reignited with Greece when the new Republic claimed the name The Socialist Republic of Macedonia. Over the next 25 years tensions escalated over the name with Greece insisting on a geographic qualifier. Negotiators from the UN helped to resolve the dispute finally in 2018 and the new name became North Macedonia.

Yet today, many local people feel cheated of what they believe to be the true name – Macedonia. But, for the purposes of this blog post, I will use the current official name recognized by the government and the United Nations – North Macedonia.

Lake Ohrid

This gorgeous lake is 138 square miles, and is shared between Albania and North Macedonia. The majority of the 300-metre-deep lake however is in North Macedonia. It is considered to be one of the oldest lakes in the world – 3-5 million years. It is fed primarily by underground springs. Learn more about it here.

Lake Ohrid is 139km from Tirana Albania – you could visit on a day trip. We however wanted to stay longer, so we booked an Airbnb in the village of Ohrid. What a great spot…one of the few lodgings directly on the lake.

Things to Do

We visited in mid April and the “season” had not really started. Busy season is May – September when tourists flock to the beautiful lake to swim, boat, fish and enjoy the sun. During our four day visit we had three perfect weather days, but the final day was raining and stormy. The lake sits at 695 meters above sea level.

Looking across the lake to Old Town Ohrid with the fortress on top

Sveti Naum

We crossed the border from Albania at the south end of the lake. This is a lesser-used border crossing but we had time and wanted to circle the lake. Our first stop after arriving in North Macedonia was the beautiful Sveti Naum, an ancient monastery founded by the Bulgarian Empire in 905. This is a gorgeous spot, with shops and restaurants too. Parking is $1 and entrance to the Monastery is free. Don’t miss this when visiting Lake Ohrid. It is possible to come here by boat from the town of Ohrid. It is an hour and half boat ride.

Spring water lagoon that feeds Lake Ohrid at Sveti Naum

Bay of Bones Museum

Heading north from Sveti Naum it’s a short drive to the Bay of Bones Museum. An authentic reconstruction of a pile dwelling settlement, at the excavation site of Ploca Micov Kamen, near Gradishte and Pestani along the Ohrid coast. We found it to be a bit run down, but the $1 entry fee was acceptable.

A very interesting history dating back between 1200 and 700 BC. The lake was quite shallow around this period, which allowed for a massive wooden structure to be erected above the water, considered by many as one of the largest prehistoric palafittes. Definitely worth a visit despite the current state of repairs. It is also possible to visit Bay of Bones by boat from the town of Ohrid.

Ohrid

The town of Ohrid, is both historically significant and the largest city on the lake – the eighth largest city in North Macedonia. The old town is beautiful, rising on a knoll above the lake, while the new town spreads through the valley. Primarily a tourism destination, it is both a cultural and natural UNESCO World Heritage site, often referred to as the Jerusalem of the Balkans. The lake is one of the most bio-diverse lakes in the world.

We took a lovely boat ride on the lake on a beautiful day

Lake-related activities are the big draw, especially in the summer. Multiple boats of all sizes ply the waters. Although it was too cold to swim in April, swimming is a popular summer pastime. The Ohrid Summer Festival, a music festival mid July to mid August draws thousands.

The Fortress of King Samuel

Sitting like a crown atop the small mountain overlooking the Lake, this imposing fortress makes a spectacular sight. The 10th century fortress was built as the first capital of the Bulgarian Empire. Although it is called King Samuel’s Fortress, recent archaeological discoveries have shown it was constructed into a grand fortress by King Philip II of Macedonia, Alexander the Great’s father.

Church of Saint Sophia

One of North Macedonia’s most prominent monuments, the 1000 year old church is nestled in the old town, right next to our Airbnb. The beautiful church is considered one of the finest medieval churches in Macedonia. You must visit this gem when in Ohrid.

Church of St. John at Kaneo

This was my favorite of the many historic sites of Ohrid. A stunning location, Saint John the Theologian is a Macedonian Orthodox church situated on the cliff over Kaneo Beach overlooking Lake Ohrid. The church is dedicated to John of Patmos, the writer of Revelation, who has been by some considered to be the same person as John the Apostle. The construction date of the church remains unknown but documents detailing the church property suggest that it was built before the year 1447. Archaeologists believe that the church was constructed some time before the rise of the Ottoman Empire very likely in the 13th century. Restoration work in 1964 led to the discovery of frescoes in its dome.

Ohrid Old Town

The beautiful historic architecture of the old town is worth just wandering about the cobbled streets of the old town. Tumbling down the hillside from the fortress above, the old town is home to many residents, as well as hidden restaurants and lodging.

Seeing the Old Town from the water is a must

Ohrid Pedestrian Areas

The new town has a lovely pedestrian walkway along the shore of the lake. We used this as our morning running route, following the path for more than two miles one way. Additionally a pedestrian shopping area is popular with locals and visitors. Great shops where you can buy the famous Ohrid Pearls, other souvenirs, groceries, and much more. Dozens of restaurants are available in this area serving the traditional Macedonian cuisine of the region as well as other options.

So many dining options and my favorite Shopska Salad

The Hills are Alive

The beautiful hills and mountains surrounding the lake have options for hiking and enjoying nature. We did an 8 mile round trip up to the tiny village of Ramne. There wasn’t much happening in Ramne but we enjoyed the view. We were fascinated by the flora including the wild lilacs and spotted several new birds.

A Visit to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia

We loved a perfect, relaxing four days in Ohrid and recommend it. As a stop to other destinations or as a destination on its own, you will enjoy a visit to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia. Stunning scenery, amazing history, delicious food and friendly locals. It’s time to get to know North Macedonia.

This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Ohrid

Thanks for reading my post A Visit to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia. We appreciate your support, shares, pins and comments. Thank you.

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At Home

Home Again Home Again Jiggety Jig

May 10, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Washington State, USA

Eight months. Yep, it’s been 8 months today since we left the USA and it is time to turn our compass towards home. I love our travel life. But I love our little Villa de Verano as well, and we love spending summer in Washington State. So, it’s time. Home Again Home Again Jiggety Jig.

A Look Back

This is year 8 of our Grand Adventure. What a crazy life this is, but also rich and rewarding. This past 8 months we have tackled some difficult places (Papua New Guinea), some favorite places (Brisbane, Melbourne, Tasmania) and some chilly places (Bologna, Puglia, Sicily). We have learned new things and enjoyed watching spring arrive in places like Crete.

More Blogs Coming

I have not finished writing about our adventures in year eight. Coming up North Macedonia, Serbia, Vienna, Bratislava and Madagascar. All worth a read. But meanwhile, this week I just wanted to talk about home. The Grand Adventure is not the kind of life everyone wants, but for us it really is satisfying, particularly knowing we can always go home. Homeward bound. Home Again Home Again Jiggety Jig.

What’s Next

What’s next is the question we get probably more than any other question about our travels. So in brief let me share. We will be back in the USA for four months this time from Mid May to Mid September. In September we will travel for six weeks and then return to the USA for the holidays. During this six weeks we will visit three countries we dropped when we had to return home during COVID; Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia. Then we will do a tour once again with Intrepid Travel to the Five Stans before returning to the USA for holidays with our family.

After our time home for the holidays (November – January)we don’t know yet, but we have some ideas. We will definitely travel and are considering the South Pacific and Australia in the winter and Europe again for spring. Our trips from now on will be shorter, possibly three to four months. We have learned over the past few months that eight months is too long, our bodies can’t take it anymore. So the continuation of the Grand Adventure will revolve around shorter adventures and longer periods at home. It’s been an evolution, and luckily we both are on the same page about this.

Home Again Home Again Jiggety Jig

I am amazed and grateful at how many people follow our adventures, ask questions and seem genuinely interested in this travel life. Thank you for that. While in the USA, we plan to stay put for most of the four months, with the exception of one short trip to Las Vegas to see Elvis Costello for my husband’s birthday. We really want a quieter summer without travel. Spending time with our adult children and our moms close to home. Time to get some projects done around the house (new laundry room and more). We look forward to golf, hiking, and getting back on a running schedule – I need to drop a few pounds travel has gifted me…so much great food. I’m looking forward to gardening, quilting and some redecorating. I need to continue the photo project I started last summer. I just need to be HOME. These are things that make us happy and keep us healthy. I hope to see some of you this summer.

Be sure to stay tuned for upcoming blog posts. See last week’s post About Albania – Tirana & Beyond. Thank you for your comments, shares, pins and continued interest in what we do. This life – a real Grand Adventure.

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Europe Travel -- Inspire

Sicily Sensory Journey

March 22, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Sicily Italy

Sicily. Sensory overload. A journey of the senses bursting with color, taste and joy. I couldn’t bring myself to write another itinerary post. I really wanted to share more deeply about this island; a vast, diverse, astounding scene with overpowering pull. Come with me on a Sicily Sensory Journey.

Where Am I

We spent three weeks in Western Sicily. In February. Western Sicily is less traveled than other parts of the island and February is a very low tourism month. I recommend both for this reason. Our senses were treated to a wonderful self guided tour, and we nearly had the place to ourselves. I can’t image trying to enjoy this place in July with thousands of other people. February and March were perfect for a Sicily Sensory Journey.

Sights and Colors

Green is not what I was expecting. But in February green is the color. Green, blue and gold. Come August the island will be brown and dangerously dry. In fact in the past few years climate change has increased the frequency of devastating wildfires. But in February and March it’s lush. The mountains look like they are blanketed in green velvet. The fields are full of glossy green trees laden with yellow lemons and oranges. Silvery green olive trees cover miles and miles of the island. The Mediterranean sea tempts you with it’s turquoise shimmer, but it’s too chilly this time of year. Enjoy watching it crash into the gray and white rocky coast.

Golden ruins from ancient civilizations create a contrast to all the green…the surprising history of this island going back thousands of years is still present and accessible in dozens of preserved ruins, medieval towns, and ancient settlements. Most all of it built from local alabaster limestone aged to flaxen by sun, rain, wind and years. The stories it holds in its depths fire the imagination.

In the shops, a rainbow of colorful Sicilian ceramics, popular with visitors and locals, shout out in motifs of fruit, vegetables and ancient faces amidst a riot of primary colors.

As February melted into March we were rewarded with wildflowers of every hue; orange, yellow, purple, pink and blue. Their little heads bobbing in the wind in a joyful dance of spring, as if saying welcome. Welcome to our Sicily Sensory Journey.

Sounds

Italian drivers are, in a word, insane. But in February traffic is low and I can only imagine how the sound of vehicles in the summer changes the ambiance. Our little Airbnb near the Northwest corner of Sicily sat over looking the sea on a dirt road at the end of a bluff. Most days we didn’t hear or see another human. Just nature; wind, rain, birds. Occasionally a dog barking off in the distance. The sound of silence. A treat for the senses, when we live our lives in such busy and noisy times.

Sicily was a lovely place to search out birds, as we walked the peaceful trails and unpopulated towns. From lying in bed in our cozy cottage bedroom to standing on top of windswept mountains we listened to new-to-us birdsong, a part of this little piece of paradise called western Sicily.

Tastes and Smells

Close your eyes and breath deep. The smells of Sicily might startle you; fishmonger aroma is surprisingly fresh and salty; any beach, of course smells of the sea but also of something sparkling and clean. The ancient sites smell of earth and secrets. And of course the agriculture smells of citrus, artichoke, new sprung grasses and something deep and peppery. Sicily Sensory Journey. Makes you smile.

Of course there is the food and the wine – this is not Italy…it’s Sicily and it’s not exactly the same. Yes you will indulge in pasta and pizza. Sicilian food is always made with the freshest and most in-season ingredients, sourced close to the plate. Home cooks and chefs alike are resolute in their commitment to local and seasonal components. All the many tastes of Sicily are changing with the calendar, creating a sensory dance on your pallet. During our visit we fell hard for the local and seasonal sardines, tuna and squid. We ate olives and citrus everyday. We reveled in local ingredients like pistachio, ricotta, tomatoes and fresh-made pasta from local wheat. Food and culture are so closely entwined in Sicily, and a major ingredient of the Sicily Sensory Journey.

Sicily Sensory Journey

It’s easy to find hundreds of blog posts and travel articles about what you should do and see when you visit Sicily. And you should absolutely visit Sicily. I know I will visit again. For your planning purposes, let’s consider instead of a whirlwind tour, a slow travel, off-season and sensory tour. It’s the perfect place to find yourself – away from the hustle and bustle, stress and chaos of the world we live in. The colors, the sounds, the smells, and of course the tastes of Sicily. Unforgettable.

Come for the history, beauty and food. But come for a Sicily Sensory Journey.

See last week’s post Tasting Sicily – Surprising and Delicious.

Thank you for reading my post Sicily Sensory Journey. I hope you will continue to follow us as we travel next to Rome, Spain and Greece. Grazie.

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Europe Travel

Adoro la Puglia – I love Puglia, Italy’s “Segreta”.

March 8, 2024

Laureen

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Puglia, a little secret – at least it was to me. Having traveled to the big five of Italy; Rome, Milan, Florence, Venice and Naples, I kinda thought I had “done” Italy. We were researching Bologna, and then I stumbled upon Puglia. And now Adora la Puglia – I love Puglia, Italy’s “Segreta”.

Our five days in the Puglia region was a whirlwind. I thought it would be plenty of time. Re-examining I wish we had ten days, even though we made it work. Interestingly, visiting in February had the advantage of almost no tourists but the disadvantage of many shops and restaurants closed for the month. Evidently this is when many business people take a vacation. It was not a hardship for us, we found plenty to see and do and really loved how quiet and uncrowded it was. We had beautiful weather which we were very grateful for.

Bellisima

In the course of our five days we hit nine cities and villages. Most places we just wandered aimlessly through the streets, astonished at the history, architecture and beauty. In a few other places we hired a guide to give us more in depth knowledge. And everywhere we ate the incredible food, and drank the incredible wine.

Below is a list of the nine places we visited over our five day visit. For your planning purposes I would recommend you look beyond these nine, as there are other places we did not get to. But for this blog post, this is what we did – Adora la Puglia – I love Puglia, Italy’s “Segreta”.

A Note – you can do this tour by train, but I really recommend a car. It is a law to have an International Drivers License in Italy so plan ahead. During our visit we used an app called Easy Park to help us find and pay for parking in every city we went to. Italians drive like crazy people. Take it slow and safe and they will go around you.

Alberobello

This beautiful little town is what first attracted us to the Puglia region. After seeing a photo of the iconic Trulli architecture of Alberobello we were smitten. We spent our five days in a historic Trulli turned Airbnb, and used Alberobello as our Puglia base. Alberobello is a UNESCO World Heritage village and has grown in popularity for visitors and group tours over the past few years.

Trulli

What is a Trulli? In the 17th and 18th century Alberobello was overseen by a feudal lord. In his effort to avoid taxes, he had all the peasants live in the Trulli – a stone house with a conical roof that were built without mortar. The lack of mortar made the structures “temporary” and thus no taxes. At the time, the area was a vast forest (Alberobello means beautiful tree) and the peasants were clearing the trees. Until the late 1700’s Alberobello was not a designated town.

Aia Piccola

Today, throughout the region for miles around Alberobello you will see historic Trulli dotting the landscape, including the Airbnb we stayed in. But within the historic center of Alberobello there are two distinct areas of tightly compacted Trulli. We did a private walking tour with a local through both areas. Our guide Guido showed us the smaller Aia Piccola which is still home to many locals. It is a small neighborhood of friendly people. We went inside one home to see how people once lived.

Rione Monti

The larger more touristic area is Rione Monti. This neighborhood is positioned on a hill and provides perfect photo opportunities. This is also where the shops and restaurants are. Many shops are local products including popular wood and ceramic works as well as jewelry and clothing. I purchased a beautiful scarf, a small Trulli shaped olive oil decanter and a charm for my bracelet. On our first day we discovered two delicious local specialties; Orecchiette with turnip tops and Braciole, a delicious slow roasted rolled beef.

Beef Braciole at the tiny but delicious My Grandmothers Pantry

Monopoli & Polignano a Mare

After our morning walking tour of Alberobello and a quick lunch, we headed out towards the coast and the two larger cities; Monopoli and Polignano a Mare.

Monopoli

An ancient fortified city, Monopoli was founded in 500 BC by the Greeks. Similar to much of this southern part of Italy, Monopoli passed through the hands of the Romans, Goths, Byzantines and Normans. Today it is a beautiful seaside city with a gorgeous Basilica of the Madonna della Madia, sparkling turquoise water dotted with quaint fishing boats and lots of restaurants and shops for visitors. In the summer it is a popular beach destination.

Polignano a Mare

Another seaside town perched ontop of limestone cliffs with beautiful views of the Adriatic. A rich ancient history beginning in the 4th century, Polignano was likely originally named Neopolis by the Greeks, while some historians say Julius Caesar founded it as a hub along the Via Traiana, one of several ancient Roman roads in the region. Today Polignano a Mare celebrates itself as a modern city popular with tourists all year long. A statue of native son Domenico Modugno, best known for the song Volare, is a popular tourist photo spot.

Next time I’d love a hotel room with this view

Ostuni, Cisterno, Martina Franca and Locorotondo

On day three we set out early to explore four ancient hilltop villages all within about an hour or less from Alberobello.

Ostuni

We actually arrived in Ostuni so early nothing was really open yet. But we parked the car and took a long walk around the “white city” – referred to for it’s white walls and buildings. Ostuni is very popular with visitors and the population explodes in the summer. On the morning we were there we seriously had the place to ourselves. It was wonderful to just wander and peek into the various alleys and stairways. The original settlement here can be dated back to the stone age.

Cisternino

We really enjoyed the hilltop village of Cisternino, with views across the valley to neighboring Martina Franca. The village was just coming awake on our arrival. We enjoyed an espresso before wandering the streets, taking in the view from the panorama vista and visiting some local cathedrals.

The original town is said to have been destroyed by the Goths, and it was rebuilt as a monastery by the Basillian Monks in the Middle Ages. Today it’s dense interior gives it a maze feel and offers visitors to enjoy a treasure hunt as they wander.

Martina Franca

Named for Saint Martin and founded in the 10th century, Martina Franca is famous for its olive oil production and its Baroque architecture. It’s another good place to take a slow stroll within its gated walls, or wander outside the gates where commerce continues and locals sit and watch the world go by.

Locorotondo

One of my favorites of this day was our final stop in Locorotondo. Another very small hill top village, with the name meaning “round place”. The village was a unfortified walled city from about 1000 AD, founded by Benedictine monks. Today it is a tourist mecca for its beauty and architecture.

We had a late lunch/early dinner here in Locorotondo, and it was one of the best meals we had anywhere in Italy. We just stumbled into Osteria Il Rosoni, one of the few restaurants that were open. It was a great discovery. We drank the local Verdante wine and ate several local specialties. It was a great way to end day three.

One of the best meals we had in Italy at xx

Sassi di Matera

Day four we headed out from Alberobello about an hour and 15 min drive to Matera. I had seen photos of this place and I knew it had a unique history but was not prepared for how amazing it was. We spent the entire day in this town and if I were to visit again I would spend a night or two in this remarkable UNESCO site.

You definitely should start your visit on the Murgia side, across the ravine, to get a good look back at this astonishing cave city. What you are looking at is a prehistoric troglodyte village, thought to be among the first human settlements of what is today Italy. The oldest Neolithic pottery found dates to 7500 BC. It is truly one of the oldest inhabited settlements in the world.

Today’s city is built on top of the original caves, but many cave dwellings still exist and are occupied in their updated form. In the 1950’s it was considered the “shame of Italy” because the inhabitants were so poor. The government relocated them to a new area. But eventually in the 1990’s the potential for tourism and commerce started to be noticed, and today it is really one of the most remarkable places in the world. Read the Smithsonian story about it here.

We enjoyed a really delicious meal in Sassi di Matera at Il Terazzino within a cave. Great food and service too. It was a favorite day and I am so glad we visited this remarkable place.

Lecce

Our time in Pugla flew by, and on our last day we were tired, but decided to make the hour and half drive south to Lecce. We figured it was unlikely we would ever return to this area, so we didn’t want to waste a day. The drive was on a good freeway much of the way and we arrived with plenty of time to find parking and then search out the tour we had booked ahead.

Lecce has a fascinating history. Most of the architecture is Baroque dating back to the 12th and 13th century. But legend dates the original city to the 5th BC. Below the current town only recently (early 1920’s) was discovered an entire coliseum, and nearby an entire Roman theatre. Both areas are still to be full excavated but will eventually be opened to tourists.

Lecce has several stunning cathedrals, including the recently restored Basilica de Santa Croce. You should also visit the city’s Bell Tower, popular with tourists and you can climb to the top. The walls of the original city, dating back 2000 years, can still be seen in several places around what is often referred to as the “Florence of the South”.

Back to Alberobello

We made the drive back to Alberobello, where we wanted to enjoy this little gem after dark on our final night. We had an outstanding dinnner at 100Metricubi, a unique menu of local octopus, bean mash (a local favorite) and of course, wine.

I do not take lightly how astonishing my travel life is. It can be exhausting and sometimes it’s a lot of work for the planning and execution. However, the result is a treasure chest of memories of people, places and experiences that have forever changed me, taught me, inspired me and made me a better steward of the earth. Thank you Puglia, you were something special. Adora la Puglia – I love Puglia, Italy’s “Segreta”.

Thank you for reading my post Adora la Puglia – I love Puglia, Italy’s “Segreta”. I hope you will consider adding Puglia to your travel bucket list.

See last week’s post San Marino Hiding in Plain Sight.

See this week’s book review Still Life by Sarah Winman here.

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