This book. Mind boggling. Described by critics as both brilliant and confounding…for me I’m going with brilliant. It’s not for everyone, but I was astonished. Here is my book review To Paradise by Hanya Yanagihara.
If you are looking for an easy read…this is not it. This book is intense and sometimes horrific. But Yanagihara has a beautiful ability to develop characters that take your hand and bring you right into the story. Or stories in this case.
Because this novel is essentially three stories…three stories that seemingly don’t connect, but keep reading. They will. The three stories are placed 100 years apart; 1893 in New York City, 1993 in Hawaii and 2093 in New York City.
But none of these places will be familiar to the reader. An alternate New York City exists in this book. In 1893 it’s not in the United States, it exists in an alternative country after a revolution. It’s openly Lesbian/Gay friendly. Arranged marriages are common. History is rewritten through the bold yet quiet imagination of Yanagihara.
In the second story we find ourselves in Hawaii in 1993. Unrest, global warming, and family legacy in the island nation finds the characters searching for meaning. But wait these characters all have the same names as 100 years ago. What exactly is going on here?
And then boom. We are back in New York in the year 2093. This astonishing third story for me was gripping, and a bit too close to home. Pandemics, intense heat, unbreathable air, and a country in utter chaos. Here the characters are honest and emotional and so believable – even given the dystopian world they occupy.
With all this angst and uncertainty can this story end happily? The overriding theme through-out is hope; hope for the survival of the planet, our human species, family, love and happiness.
An extraordinary work, that may take some time to digest. But I give high praise to the imagination and beautiful story telling of Yanagihara. Thank you for reading my book review To Paradise by Hanya Yanagihara.
*****Five stars for To Paradise by Hanya Yanagihara.
I arrived in Tasmania Australia with absolutely no expectations. I love it when that happens. Sometimes it’s on purpose and other times it’s just because we are busy and have not really planned our visit. Usually this results in wonderful surprises and discoveries – and this is exactly what happened for us in Tasmania – Australia’s Island Paradise.
Hobart from on top of Mount Wellington
Tasmania – Australia’s Island Paradise
Island Paradise? Absolutely. But maybe not in the way you are thinking. It’s not tropical…but there are beautiful beaches. You’ll love that it’s not crowded…most of it wild and undeveloped. Also it’s not hot…with four seasons but rarely getting over 75 – 80F degrees in the short summer.
And yet it truly is a little Eden. About half the size of the State of Washington, the heart shaped island is home to a fascinating collection of birds, animals and plants. With miles of undeveloped coast, rain forests, mountains, waterfalls, lakes and meadows. A hardy local population of about 540,000 are friendly, patriotic and helpful.
Beautiful Tasmanian beach
Tasmania has a rich history. Home to aboriginal tribes for tens of thousands of years, the tribes were nearly wiped out when Europeans arrived. Abel Tasman, the Dutch explorer, first named the island Van Diemen’s Land in the 1640’s. The British began “transportation” in the early 1800’s, transporting convicts to gaols (jails) throughout Australia including Tasmania. In an effort to colonize the area, more than 162,000 men, women and children served hard labor between 1788 and 1868. Most of them stayed, and populated the Australian mainland and Tasmania. It is estimated that 20% of today’s Australian population can trace their roots to British convicts transported during this time.
What’s Your Pleasure?
During our visit, Tasmania provided us activities that we enjoy the most; bird and wildlife spotting, hiking, walking, learning about history, eating seafood and drinking local wine and beer! We did all that and more during our four week visit to Tasmania – Australia’s Island Paradise.
Amazing local beer and wine throughout Tasmania
Most people probably aren’t going to spend an entire month. But hopefully this post will help you set your priorities for visiting Tasmania.
By the way – if you plan to visit more than one national park in Tasmania, it’s worth it to purchase an annual pass which we did. Definitely worth it for us at US$60. Learn more about it here.
We spent an entire month in a wonderful historic Airbnb in Hobart. All but two of the activities listed below we did as day trips from Hobart. One overnight was to Freycinet National Park, although we could have done that in a day trip too. Additionally we took two nights to go north and visit Launceston and Cradle Mountain. It was great to use Hobart as our home base, since we had such a lot of time to work with. If you have less time, be sure to spend at least a few days in lovely Hobart because there is much to do. Read all about the amazing things we did while living in Hobart for a month here Hobart Australia’s Most Surprising Town.
DISTANCE FROM HOBART – 35 min drive and 30 min ferry ride.
Bruny Island (approximation)
A short drive from Hobart to the small town of Kettering, you catch a small ferry to Bruny Island. Plan ahead because sometimes you wait a couple of ferries – it’s really small. Once on the island, there are some fun things to do…we did it as a day trip but depending on how much time you have it could be a great overnight. Bruny is home to some great hikes including Fluted Cape Walk, which we did. It involved a pretty steep climb but that gave us some wonderful views. We had hoped to see the famous Bruny Island white wallaby but unfortunately we didn’t. Hopefully you will. There are about 200 on the island.
Bruny has beautiful beaches and several wineries. We took some time to visit a local brewery that also makes cheese Bruny Island Beer and Cheese Company and enjoyed a little lunch.
Bruny Island Beer and Cheese Company
A popular thing to do on Bruny is get out on the water on an organized boat cruise. We didn’t do this, but there are many ways to enjoy the water…and many other things as well. Learn all about what to do on Bruny Island here.
We started early for this day trip and enjoyed everything we did. Starting on the Tasman Peninsula we made several stops to enjoy the beauty of this astounding scenery of this area. This is home to the multi day hike known as the Three Capes. On this visit to Tasmania we were not prepared to do overnight hiking, but it’s one of the most popular things to do in Tasmania. Learn more about it here.
However our day trip included some short walks that provided us outstanding views of this rugged and beautiful area. Starting with a couple of short loop walks that took us to the Tasman’s Arch and then to the Devils Kitchen. Another short walk in this same area is to a Blow Hole at Fossil Bay, with spectacular panoramas along the gorgeous coast. I highly recommend a stop at the Tessellated Pavement too. It’s also a short walk and worth it to view this very unique rock formation, created by the expanding salt in the rock cracks. Unreal and bewitching.
Tasman’s Arch
Tessellated Pavement
Devil’s Kitchen and Coast
Alien looking “loafs” at Tessellated Pavement
Port Arthur
At the end of the Tasman Peninsula we come to Port Arthur, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and former penal colony. Between 1830 and 1877 nearly 13,000 convicts came to this remote point of the Tasman Peninsula, at that time reachable only by water. The convicts that were housed here were those who recommitted crimes. A high offender penitentiary. The museum and self-guided tour is so perfectly presented and easy to understand. At the start of the tour you receive a playing card with the name and picture of someone who either lived or worked in Port Arthur. As you tour the grounds you read the interpretive signage and try to find your person. It was fun and interesting for young and old alike. This unique historical site of Port Arthur is sad, but frankly beautiful too. Port Arthur is a not to be missed attraction of Tasmania.
Engaging way to explore Port Arthur
Port Arthur
Beautiful too
As we returned to Hobart we stopped at one of the dozens of wineries in this area. Visiting Bangor Vineyard winery we enjoyed an early dinner in their incredible restaurant and some delicious wine too.
At 600 feet, you’ll enter this beautiful national park and find a cool rain forest and home to some of Tasmania’s tallest Eucalyptus trees. We enjoyed a full day hike doing the three waterfalls loop. On our visit we hiked about 7 miles but there are short and easy wilderness walks that take you through the beautiful fern trees and to the popular Russell Falls, one of Tasmania’s most beautiful waterfalls. After our hike and picnic lunch we drove up to Lake Dobson. It was noticeably colder at this elevation of 3500 feet. In the winter it’s popular for snow activities at Mount Mawson Ski Field. Mount Fields National Park is not as popular as some of the other national parks close to Hobart, we loved how few people were there on our visit. I highly recommend you visit.
DISTANCE FROM HOBART One hour by car and then 30 min by boat.
Maria Island
One of our favorite things we did on Tasmania was visiting Maria Island (pronounced mar – EYE – ah). Another national park, it is remote and beautiful and home to abundant wildlife. I recommend booking your boat ahead, especially during high season. It’s recommended you arrive at the ferry 45 min before your departure. The passenger-only ferry with Encounter Maria departs from the small town of Triabunna. At the ferry you will find parking, rest rooms and a small place for coffee and fish and chips.
One day or More
The boat ride can be a bit bumpy, so if you are like me plan ahead with your motion meds. On arrival there are multiple hiking options depending on your fitness level. We did three different hikes; first to the Fossil Cliffs, about an hour and half. The fossils are pretty cool and the hike along the rocky cliff side of the island is windswept and beautiful. We encountered kangaroo on this section.
Next we did the Reservoir Circuit, a very peaceful walk through tall forests with fewer people. On this walk we saw our first potoroo and some beautiful birds.
We walked through the Darlington Township, another of Australia’s penal colonies of the 1800’s and enjoyed our picnic lunch at one of the provided tables. It was here that we encountered the rare Cape Barren Goose.
Boat to Maria Island
Fossil Cliffs
Fossils
Next we walked along the beautiful Rutherford Beach cove to the Painted Cliffs, one of the most beautiful areas of the island. A fascinating geological feature of Maria you don’t want to miss. Make sure to check on the tide however, to properly see the Painted Cliffs the tide must be low enough to walk to them.
Walking back to the ferry we encountered wombats. Several wombats, including a Mama and a baby. Such a treat to see these incredible marsupials up close.
We took the 10:00 AM boat out of Triabunna and returned on the 4:15 departure from Maria. This gave us plenty of time to do all of the above. There are longer hikes as well, and you can stay the night in both small historic lodging or camping. Don’t miss Maria Island when visiting Tasmania.
We visited Freycinet as an overnight but you could do it as a day trip from Hobart. Deciding to make it an overnight, we stayed in the tiny town of Swansea, about an hour from the park, in a small cabin in a caravan park. Swansea has a few restaurants but not much else. We did enjoy a walk through town and along the waterfront.
Beautiful beach near Swansea
Dinner in Swansea at The Branch
Wine Glass Bay
Wine Glass Bay is the main thing most people come to see. There is a fairly steep hike up to the viewpoint that includes about 1000 stairs. Once at the top the view makes you forget all about that. At the lookout, you can choose to walk another 1000 steps down to the beautiful sandy beach. Then, turn around and back up, and down the other side. It is a bit difficult, but if you take your time, I think nearly anyone could do it. Be sure and bring water.
Looking down onto Wine Glass Bay
The beach at Wine Glass Bay
Made it to the top!
Cape Tourville Light
It’s also worth it to visit Cape Tourville Light. The view is incredibly, and although very windy I definitely recommend the short walk around the light. The view from the windy cliff where the light house sits is stunning.
OVERNIGHT – we did Launceston as part of a two day tour of Launceston, Devonport and Cradle Mountain (see below)
Distance from Hobart 2 hours 30 minutes
Launceston (approximation)
Launceston is Tasmania’s second largest city. Located on the Tamar River, it’s home to James Boag’s Brewery – Australia’s largest brewery. It’s a small town with lots of historic charm in the Victorian style architecture. It’s easy to do a self-guided walking tour. Don’t miss the Old Umbrella Shop, owned by National Trust Tasmania.
If the weather is fine make sure to visit the Cataract Gorge and ride the old school Cataract Chair Lift over the gorge.
National Trust Old Umbrella Shop
Cataract Gorge
Cradle Mountain National Park and Devonport
OVERNIGHT
Distance from Hobart 4 hours. From Devonport it’s about 1 hour 30 min.
We drove from Launceston on to Devonport (about an hour) where we rented a tiny cottage in a caravan park with views of the the Bass Strait. We chose Devonport because it was easy to access Cradle Mountain National Park which was our main reason for coming to this area. The region is very agarian, a bit windy and absolutely beautiful. Devonport is home to the ferry that crosses the Bass Strait, the treacherous span of water to mainland Australia.
We didn’t have much time in Devonport, and frankly there isn’t a lot to do. We enjoyed a leisurely walk along the waterfront a long and well maintained Torquay Heritage Trail.
The best thing we did in Devonport was go at sunset to see the Little Penguins. Often called Fairy Penguins these little cuties leave their chicks on shore and go out to fish from just before sunup until after sunset. Conservation volunteers man the overlook at Lillico Penguin Viewing Platform each evening to help visitors spot the little penguins as they come ashore. It was cold and windy and of course dark…but I’m sure glad we did it.
Torquay Heritage Trail
Little Penguin at Lillico Viewing Platform – using red lights to see the penguins after dark
We arrived at Cradle Mountain National Park about 10am. It was the week after Christmas and it was really busy with tourists and locals too. We hadn’t realized that visiting Cradle Mountain means a shuttle bus inside the park. At first I was annoyed about that…always wanting to be able to control my timeline. However, it was a very efficient system, even on a very busy day. The shuttles are large and comfortable and frequent. Even if you already have a parks pass, you’ll need to stop at the visitor center to get your shuttle tickets.
The park is about 3000 feet, and even in early summer, it can be chilly. When packing up that morning in Devonport where it was 75 Fahrenheit, we had only thrown in our down jackets and hats as an afterthought. Thankfully. We wore all of it most the day. Beginning our hiking around 11am with the Dove Lake Circuit, one of the most popular hikes in the park. We followed that with a nice stretch of the Overland Track – most of which is on a raised platform. Next we enjoyed our picnic lunch and were just heading out to do a portion of the river gorge track, which wanders back down to the Visitor Center. But right then it started to rain…a nasty, misty, soaking rain, and we decided we had enough for the day, and headed back towards Devonport.
Beautiful Dove Lake, Cradle Mountain National Park
Bundled up but loving Cradle Mountain National Park
And We Didn’t See It All
There are a few things we did not squeeze into our visit. Despite the compact size of Tasmania, if you like nature, you’ll never run out of things to see and do. The people are so friendly, prices are good, roads are passable to all the places I mentioned here, and summer and fall provide comfortable temperatures. Spending the holidays here we observed how laid-back life is – even as Christmas approached. People are unpretentious, happy, and completely at home in this beautiful state.
We loved everything about our time in Australia, and Tasmania is a place we would love to return to again. If I can help you plan a visit to this remarkable place, let me know. Tasmania – Australia’s Island Paradise.
See last week’s post about Hobart Tasmania – Australia’s Most Surprising Town here. Be sure to come back NEXT FRIDAY for our ANNUAL TRAVEL AWARDS post – which incidentally has a lot of Australia in it too! You don’t want to miss it – always one of our top posts of the year.
Thank you for reading this week’s post Tasmania – Australia’s Island Paradise. We would really appreciate your shares, pins and comments to help our post get more views. Thank you.
I am normally a BIG fan of Leif Enger and have read several of his books. But this one….I struggled with it despite wanting to love it. Here is my book review I Cheerfully Refuse by Leif Enger.
What is Happening?
I have read and loved many dystopian novels over the past few years, some of my favorites being Station Eleven, To Paradise and Cloud Cuckoo Land. Going into I Cheerfully Refuse I didn’t realize it was set in the not too distant future. It takes a long time in the story to really grasp it, at least it did for me. Hints are dropped here and there and eventually the understanding comes….
Dark Times
Enger introduces us to Lark and Rainy, a couple living in the not too distant, but much changed future. When Lark is murdered, Rainy finds himself on the run in a sailboat. As the reader is pulled into Enger’s beautiful story telling, we realize how crazy the world is, run by billionaires and astronauts, with massive and dangerous climate changes creating havoc. Food shortages are part of life, books are illegal and a rash of suicides occur regularly because no one wants to continue to suffer.
It’s not a happy book- a dystopian novel of despair and destruction mixed with love and longing. And so different than anything I have read by Enger. Maybe I just wasn’t up to it – feeling the gloom in our planet currently. You’ll need to decide for yourself. I give I Cheerfully Refuse four stars ****. Let me know what you think?
Thank you for reading my Book Review I Cheerfully Refuse by Leif Enger. See last week’s Book Review The Unmaking of June Farrow. We love it when you comment, pin and share our book reviews. Thank you.
As you likely know if you have been following all these years, I track my reading year from August to July. Nothing fancy, just keep a little tally in my notebook of all the books I read. This year I read 69 books, (11 fewer than last year) and today I will share with you some of my favorites, once again, for Sixth Annual Reading Round Up 2023.
Over the past year I have written 52 book reviews, pulling into reviews my favorites of the 69 books. Fifty of the 69 were read on my kindle, four were traditional books, while 15 were audible books we listened to on road trips or in the car while home in the USA. Some of my top books of the year were on Audible…a fantastic way to enjoy a book while driving.
So as in the past several years (see our year in review from 2022 and 2021) I’m sharing my most favorites in a Top Fifteen list, and a few honorable mentions too. Some outstanding novels, biographies, historical non-fiction, as well as Booker and Pulitzer winners. Other than the number one slot here, the books are in no particular order.
My favorite book of the year
My Top Fifteen
Here are my favorites from July 2022 to July 2023;
The Covenant of Water by Abraham Verghese One of the best books I have read in several years, Verghese is a brilliant man and writer and I will read anything he writes in the future. My favorite book hands down of this past year. Go Read This Book!
Lessons in Chemistry by Bonnie Garmus – powerful yet sentimental this story of a brilliant woman scientist in the “women stay home” 1950’s will make you life, cry and jump for joy. Soon to be a movie too I hear.
The Marriage Portrait by Maggie O’Farrell – O’Farrell has a magnificent talent to weave real historical characters into fictional historical novels so perfectly you will wonder if the story is biographical. A beautiful read.
To Paradise by Hanya Yanaghihara I believe in my book review of this book I used the phrase mind-boggling. Indeed it was. A spectacular achievement in fiction, difficult to explain, sometimes confounding, absolutely worth the effort. I loved it.
Demon Copperhead by Barbara Kingsolver – winner of the Pulitzer Prize for fiction 2023, this fantastic story of drug abuse, poverty and abandonment in Appalachian USA is deep and sometimes difficult to read. But read it anyway.
The Whalebone Theater by Joanna Quinn – set in England before and then during WWII, the changes in Quinn’s astonishing cast of characters through the book and the war will keep you turning every page. A deep story of the meaning of family.
Act of Oblivion by Robert Harris – I had never heard the historical fact that the killers of King Charles I in England escaped to New England. This part is true. What Harris does so eloquently in this book is imagine how the manhunt for these killers evolves over more than a decade. I really enjoyed it.
This is Happiness by Niall Williams – Sweet, heartfelt and identifiable. This is a story about that one great love. This is a story about life. It will make you smile, cry and remember your first love and past regrets. An unforgettable and well written story.
Becoming Duchess Goldblatt Author Anonymous – Before reading this great book I assumed it was a novel about a 17th century Duchess. LOL! Well you can’t judge a book by it’s cover as they say. This book is brilliant. Duchess Goldblatt is an anonymous Twitter character who gained a giant following for her uplifting yet hilarious posts about life’s ups and downs in this social media world.
Horse by Geraldine Brooks – Brooks has two books in my top 15 this year (see #14) and Horse is her most recent. She uses the human activity centered around a horse – a real horse from the past – to create this fictional story of racism through the centuries.
Booth by Karen Joy Fowler – what a tale of both fact and fiction of the infamous John Wilkes Booth and his family. The trials and tribulations of this family make a great story, long before anyone shoots Lincoln. Extreme poverty to wealth and prosperity are combined with unfathomable loss of of children and property, alcoholism and rivalry, illegitimate accusations, polygamy, ego, and family love and regret. This was a perfect Audible on a long road trip last summer.
The Night Ship by Jess Kidd – The real life wreck of the Dutch East Indies flagship Batavia in 1629 is the basis for this fictional novel. Wrecked near Beacon Island, the horrifying experience of the survivors of the Batavia is one of the most barbaric ever recorded. Kidd brilliantly chronicles the events in both fact and myth through the eyes of two small children in The Night Ship.
The Great Circle by Maggie Shipstead – A very long saga of a book about a female pilot in the early days of pilots and airplanes. Yes it is long…but I loved it. At first I thought it was about a real person; the character is fictional but comes to life under Shipstead’s genius
Year of Wonders by Geraldine Brooks – This is Brooks second appearance this year in my top 15. Loosely based on Eyram Derbyshire, a real village that had to quarantine itself during the black plague. Brooks creates a fictional village in 1666. When an infected bolt of fabric makes its way to the isolated village from London, the protagonist Anna’s life will change forever.
Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafron – Young Daniel and his father run an antique bookstore in Barcelona during a time when Spain and the city are reeling from war. Daniel has lost his mother, and in his grief he finds solace in a mysterious book but the search for the author will nearly kill him.
Local Author – The Whiskey Creek Water Company by Jan Walker – Walker, who lives in my local town, presented one of my favorites this year in a sweet and simple book about a tiny fictional village in the Pacific Northwest during the prohibition.
Humor – Guncle by Steven Rowley – Gay Uncle Patrick (Gup) also known to his niece and nephew as Guncle, finds his world turned upside down when a family tragedy back home in Connecticut has him caring for his niece and nephew all summer in Palm Springs. I fell in love with the characters and this family story.
Favorite Author – Delicious by Ruth Reichl- I have been a Reichl fan for years. Celebrated memoir author, food writer and former editor of Gourmet Magazine, her first novel is for foodies as well as anyone who has lost someone they love.
Favorite Author – The Museum of Extraordinary Things – I’m a big fan of Alice Hoffman, one of my all-time favorite books was The Dove Keepers a few years ago. And this novel is an earlier work of Hoffman. I suspect there is more Hoffman in my future.
Travel Through Reading
Two of my favorite things to do in the world are travel and read…and for the same reason. Both take you to unknown places, where you meet new people and encounter different ways of life. Both open your eyes to alternative ways of life, educate you and present new ways to think and see the world and beyond. Get out there and explore…books are the perfect way for ANYONE to do that. Just. Go. Read!
Thanks for reading this week’s Reading Wednesday post Sixth Annual Reading Round Up 2023.
What am I reading now? Sacred Hunger by Barry Unsworth (1992 Booker Prize)
Thanks for all your support again this year. We love it when you comment, pin and share our posts. It helps us gain followers and reach more book lovers!
This book. So much fun, even though the character (author) deals with some dark times. One of my fav books in the last few months. Here is my book review Becoming Duchess Goldblatt.
I kept seeing this book pop up but I wasn’t really paying attention because I was busy and traveling. I tossed it on my library waitlist assuming it was a novel about a 17th century Duchess. LOL Well you can’t judge a book by it’s cover as they say.
This book is brilliant. Duchess Goldblatt is an anonymous Twitter character who gained a giant following for her uplifting yet hilarious posts about life’s ups and downs in this social media world.
The still anonymous author and pseudonym, Duchess (or Your Grace as she prefers to be called) found solace in this fictional character during the most dark time of her real life. A divorce spirals her into depression. She loses friends and family and income. She is trying to hold on for the sake of her child, keep working and provide a suitable home environment. But her dismal existence makes her sad and lonely, and on one particular dark day (her birthday) with nowhere to go, the author creates Duchess.
Today Duchess Goldblatt has 60K followers including multiple famous authors and musicians including Lyle Lovett who features heavily in the book.
What a strange situation this author found herself in. Clearly hitting a note that many people out in Twitter land didn’t even know they needed. Her humor and “grace” not only brings light into the lives of her followers, but it lifts her out of her own depression, gives her purpose, and in essence becomes her memoir.
I bit difficult to explain this one but I loved this book and couldn’t put it down. A great page-turning read.
*****Five stars for Becoming Duchess Goldblatt
Thanks for reading my book review Becoming Duchess Goldblatt.
Kia Orana! “Kia Orana” is a Cook Islands greeting that means “may you live long” or “may you have a long and fulfilling life”. It’s more than just a greeting, it’s a wish for a good future and a core part of Cook Islands culture. This is what you will find in this tiny island nation in the middle of the South Pacific. We came with no expectations, and went away blessed by the beauty and kindness that penetrates this island. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.
Beautiful Rarotonga
Why Rarotonga?
As we planned our travels for 2025 we knew we wanted to return to Australia – one of our favorite countries in the world. Visiting Australia during their summer, is perfect for leaving behind the dreary Northern hemisphere winters
Beautiful flora
Colorful flowers
So, it was a natural fit to spend some time in Hawaii, and then take the non-stop flight Hawaiian Air offers from Honolulu to Rarotonga every Saturday. Why not? We have the time, the flight is only five hours and though not cheap, it got us closer to Australia. Cook Islands here we come.
So much beauty
Color everywhere
A Few Details
The Cook Islands uses the New Zealand dollar. ATM machines are available all over and most businesses accept credit cards as well. As of this writing the NZ dollar is .57 cents per one US dollar. Very good rate for Americans.
Snorkeling is a very popular activity on Rarotonga
Our cell provider Verizon does not include The Cook Islands in their international plan. Once on the island one option is purchase the Vodaphone hotspot service for WiFi. Most hotels do not offer a separate WiFi service. We paid $35NZ for five days/50G, up to three devices. Another option is to get a Vodaphone SIM or Esim at the airport. We did the Vodaphone hotspot option, which worked pretty well as there are hotspots all around the island. However, during a big storm we had, the Wifi was unavailable.
Lots of sunshine and rain creates a lush island setting
You can rent cars; we did not, and scooter rentals are also popular. We just used the bus. Taxi service is also available but no Uber.
How to get here – Air New Zealand (via Auckland) is an option, but for Americans it’s much easier to fly to Honolulu and then take Hawaiian Air which has a weekly flight on Saturday and a return flight on Sunday evening. JetStar flies direct from Sydney.
We arrived on Hawaiian and departed on JetStar
No Expectations
As we do in much of our travel, we arrived Rarotonga with no expectations. We knew it was a small island but we knew little else. The island is volcanic, with an area of 67.39 km2 (26.02 sq mi), and is home to almost 75% of the country’s population, with 10,898 of a total population of 15,040. On our arrival we found spectacular beauty untainted by mass tourism; friendly, welcoming, and kind local people, tropical weather (both sun and rain), delicious food and a distinct faith-based culture and customs. As we read prior to arrival, the island felt much like Hawaii likely did 50-75 years ago. Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands.
Long white sandy beaches
What to Do?
Don’t come to Rarotonga if you expect to be wined and dined in fancy settings, or stay in large upscale American brand resorts or have world class shopping. It is not that kind of place. There are activities on the island if you are a diver or want to snorkel with turtles and rays and learn about the local sea life. Many whales come here in season. You will also find some hiking options, bird watching and cycling tours. There is a tiny bit of shopping, particularly if you are in the market for the local black pearl. We chose to do a whole lot of nothing, during our one week visit. We can however wholeheartedly recommend the following;
Coffee by the pool at the Palm Grove
Palm Grove Resort – we are so grateful we stumbled into the Palm Grove Resort. Perfect location with beach and pool. Beach-front and pool-front bungalows, as well as some larger options too. We loved our little bungalow poolside. We enjoyed the free snorkel gear and kayaks and dined on absolutely delicious meals and breakfast (included in the price) at the Yellow Hibiscus restaurant. But best of all was the kind staff and excellent service – always with a smile and a Kia Orana. For our poolside Bungalow we paid $165 USD per night.
Our Palm Grove Bungalow
Our bungalow perfect for two people, bigger options available
Cook Islands Bus – on time and comfortable. We used the Cook Islands bus several times during our visit. One bus goes clockwise the other counterclockwise. One price $5NZ no matter how far you are going – unless you buy a ticket packet of ten for $3.50NZ each.
Waiting at the bus stop on a stormy day
Fun Stuff
Hike to Waterfall and Needle – Te Rua Manga or the Needle is a rocky spire in the Rarotonga mountains. It rises to an elevation of 413 metres above sea level. The spire itself is a breccia structure. There is a walking track to the base of the spire. This hike is not for novice hikers, but will certainly give you a 360 degree view. There are guides who can take you. We saw new to us birds and wonderful flora.
Te Rua Manga
Wigmores Waterfall
Screenshot of Cook Island’s Fruit Dove
Screenshot Pacific Imperial- Pigeon
Titikaveka, Rarotonga – Voted as one of the top 25 beaches in the South Pacific by Trip Advisor, Titikaveka features bright turquoise blue water and white sandy beaches shaded by palm trees. We enjoyed the access to this beach from Palm Grove.
Titikaveka
Highland Paradise – at the recommendation of the staff at Palm Grove, we spent an evening with Highland Paradise. We really enjoyed the food and the beautiful grounds, but more than anything we enjoyed learning so much about the local culture, dance, history and people of the Cook Islands. I highly recommend it.
Dancers were so fun at Highland Paradise
Buffet at Highland Paradise
Local Outdoor Markets
Muri Beach Night Market -The Muri night markets in the Muri Beach Village are a great way to curate your own dinner from the various food trucks, stalls and stands all while mixing and mingling with tourists and locals alike. Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings from 5pm, the night markets offer a variety of food from local BBQ meals, seafood, fresh drinking coconuts, chicken curries, wok-fried noodles, pizza, desserts and more.
Muri Beach Night Food Market Three nights a week
Punanga Nui Market – The Punanga Nui Market in Avarua, Rarotonga’s main town, offers free entertainment, fresh food stalls, organic coffee, and authentic souvenirs like pearls, artwork, crafts and hats made of coconut frond. While the market is open until midday, early Saturday morning is the best time to go for locally grown fruits and vegetables as well as homemade treats like poke. Also, make sure to head over to the main stage from about 10am to enjoy live music and dancing.
Punanga Nui Market
Learn History
Te Ara Cook Islands Cultural Museum was a great activity on a rainy day. We really enjoyed learning some of the cultural history of the island both from before European’s arrived and everything since. I highly recommend spending an our or so here, and you can’t beat the $5NZ price. A nice little cafe too.
Te Ara Cook Island’s Cultural Museum
Te Ara Cook Island’s Cultural Museum
Where to Eat
Even though our darling bungalow at Palm Grove had a kitchen, and the Palm Grove is conveniently located near one of the larger grocery stores (Wigmores), we decided not to cook our dinners since we were on the island for only a week. Instead we found our way to several popular local eateries including;
The Yellow Hibiscus – Part of the Palm Grove Resort, we ate here three separate nights. On Sunday nights they offer their weekly BBQ for $45NZ. It was an outstanding value. The other dinners we had were delicious, with huge servings and good prices. Friday night is Happy Hour night.
Amazing Salad Buffet at the Sunday BBQ
Gigantic serving of fish and chips
Best Calamari I have ever had
Ahi or steak at the Sunday BBQ
The Tamarind House Restaurant and Ukelele Bar – we took the bus to Avarua just to see the town, which frankly doesn’t have a lot to offer, but we walked around, had a beer at Trader Jack’s, and then headed on to dinner at The Tamarind House. Absolutely beautiful view and we enjoyed our dinner of Ika Mata and Nicoise Salad with fresh Ahi.
Nicoise Salad at the Tamarind House
Beautiful view
Viama a short walk from Palm Grove we enjoyed a lovely dinner on Valentines Day here. With our toes in the sand we enjoyed fresh Ika Mata (also known as Poisson Cru), Fish, Steak and a great Sticky Toffee Pudding for Desert.
Sticky Toffee Pudding
Amazing local John Dory
Dinner with a view
Charlies Bar and Grill – we heard great things about this beach side bar and chose to have lunch here on our final day on the island. Lunch starts at noon, but if you come for dinner call ahead for a reservation. The view is great, portions are huge and the food delicious. Order at the window and they bring the food to you.
Thai Steak Salad at Charlie’s
Charlie’s live music all day
Charlie’s Bar and Grill view
Kia Orana Rarotonga Cook Islands
Come to the Cook Islands to escape the winter weather back home. We met so many Canadians and Europeans in search of sun. Come to the Cook Islands to relax and find a peaceful paradise to read, relax, and swim with a few exhilarating possibilities thrown in. Come to the Cook Islands for amazing seafood, fresh produce and fruit – all served up with a smile. And come to the Cook Islands for Kia Orana – the blessing of the beautiful people and the fascinating culture they hold dear. For all of these reasons and more – come to the Cook Islands. We will be back.
I’ve been to Maui more times than I can count and it is one of my favorite places in the world. But like everything else affected by the PanDamit, Maui lost some restaurants (including one of my favs) while others struggle to keep their doors open. Even worse, the Lahaina fires 18 months ago devastated that historic city and all it’s restaurants in the old town area. And yet still, this island is home to some amazing dining from take-out to romantic and every cuisine you can want. I have not eaten at EVERY Maui restaurant, but I feel qualified to recommend quite a few. So here they are – Maui Best Restaurants 2025 by My Fab Fifties Life.
In No Particular Order
The Sea House – Napili – Beautiful view ocean side at the iconic Napili Kai Resort. Fresh fish and always delicious. One of my top restaurants on the island. Reservations a must.
A ‘a Roots – Napili – Vegan tiny restaurant in Napili Plaza, farm to table, locally sourced and so delicious.
The Sea House
A ‘a Roots
Star Noodle
Star Noodle – Lahaina – One of my top favorite restaurant in Maui. Always perfect, outdoor ocean side dining in an updated location since the fires. Creative menu and excellent service. Reservations recommended.
Mala Ocean Tavern – Lahaina – Great seafood, clever cocktails, ocean side dining. Reservations recommended.
Mama’s Fish House
Mala Ocean Tavern
Star Noodle
The Fish Market – Kaanapali – purchase fresh fish and poke here to take home or order up fresh prepared fish tacos, mahi mahi and so much more. Delicious and worth the wait. Take out.
Monkey Pod Kitchen – Kaanapali and Wailea – by the owners of Merriman’s (see below) a more casual restaurant for salads, burgers, fish and a great Mai Tai.
The Pint & Cork – Wailea – not your usual Maui vibe, this gastropub is a great place if you want a burger and a beer. Great service and reasonable prices.
Moose McGillicuddy’s – Kihei. Sports Bar upstairs with great burgers, fish and chips, salads and more. Also downstairs (same kitchen) is Fred’s Mexican open for breakfast too.
The Fish Market
Monkey Pod
Pint & Cork
Some Casual Options
Paia Fish Market – Paia, Kihei – choose your fish and how you want it prepared. Always fresh but expect a wait.
Sugar Beach Bake Shop – Kihei – come for the malasadas. Hands down the best on the island. Other yummy stuff too.
Cafe O’Lei – Kihei and other locations – a wide variety of family and budget friendly fish, burgers salads and more.
Kihei Cafe – One of Kihei’s most popular breakfast spots now has two locations, expect a wait but not too long, they get people in and out. Try the banana pancakes, loco moco or eggs bene.
Paia Fish Market
Kohola
Sugar Beach Bake Shop
Coconut’s Fish Cafe – Kihei – Fish tacos, salads and more at a reasonable family friendly price. Choose your fish and your preparation preference. Always fresh.
Coconut’s
Maui Brewing
Kohola
Something For Everyone
Three’s Bar and Grill – Kihei – Casual and clever menu with both indoor and outdoor seating and a great Happy Hour menu. Try the brussel sprouts. I’m not kidding, they are amazing.
Maui Brewing – Kihei and Kaanapali- Pizza, fish tacos, burgers and a delicious kale salad…and of course beer.
Roasted Chiles Mexican – Kihei – Only Mexican restaurant I can recommend on Maui…delicious and authentic, locally owned and family run. If you need a taco fix while in Kihei this is the place.
Maui Brewing
Honu Seafood and Pizza
Three’s Bar & Grill
Miso Phat – Kihei and Kaanapali – Delicious sushi and a great variety. Easy to order on line, pick up and enjoy at the beach.
Kula Lodge – Kula – recently purchased by long time Maui restaurateur Simon Vojdani and owners of the 5 Palms Restaurant formerly in Kihei. The 5 Palms is now be part of the beautiful property at the Kula Lodge. We enjoyed the Happy Hour…but dinner is also recommended… you can’t beat the view here!
Ohana Seafood Bar and Grill – Kihei – We went for the sushi but the day we went the Sushi Chef must have been off…bummer. But the menu has many other options from burgers to poke, tacos to calamari. The calamari was delicious..
Manioli Pizza – Wailea – This place has a small menu but a lovely view. Several pizza options and just a couple pasta options but all very good. I really liked my chicken piccata. Budget friendly and family friendly too.
Kohola Brewing – rising from the ashes, Kohola lost everything in the Lahaina fire and yet they are here and so good. Now brewing on the Big Island their new tasting room in Wailea includes a small but excellent food selection. We like it so much we visited twice.
Some of the BEST on the Island
Morimoto – Wailea – the most beautifully presented sushi I have ever had. And the ambiance is amazing at the stunning Andaz Resort in Wailea. For a special occasion or any day, just go. Great to watch the sunset too. We always come back for this one.
Ka’ana Kitchen – Wailea – We had an outstanding meal with a view at Ka’ana. Whatever you do don’t miss the watermelon salad. Everything else is good too. Also located at the Andaz.
Mama’s Fish House
Hali’imaile General Store
Mama’s Fish House
Mama’s Fish House – Paia – Maui’s finest restaurant in food, ambiance and service. Incomparable. Reservations hard to get but give it a try. Time honored and authentic, Mama’s will always fall on my Maui Best Restaurants 2025 list.
Hali’imaile General Store – Upcountry -One of the islands best restaurants located in a historic building in upcountry, the menu is fresh but not pretentious…just delicious and local. This last trip we chose to dine here on our final night as a celebration of Maui Best Restaurants 2025.
Merriman’s – Kapalua One of the best meals I have had in years, the impeccable Merrimans is where we celebrated our wedding anniversary. Amazing Prix Fixe menu for $120 per person was worth every penny. Fantastic and special place when in Maui.
Morimoto
Kula Lodge
Miso Phat
Unpretentious and Deliciouis
Sam Sato – Wailuku – few tourists come here, but locals know about this amazing noodle shop in Wailuku. I love the Dry Noodles and the Chow Fun. Great kimchee too.
The Pour House – Kapalua – no view but the ambiance is lovely and the food is divine. If you want a break from fish and Hawaiian food make a reservation at this phenomenal Italian bistro. Be sure to try the handmade fresh burrata.
Pita Paradise Wailea – A hidden gem in Wailea. This name though…it sounds like a fast food place. It is not. A lovely menu of Mediterranean dishes with daily specials. I loved my local Mong Chong grilled fish with fresh vegetables in an aioli sauce. My husband had delectable lamb gnocchi. Definitely come here. Make a reservation during peak season.
Saigon Cafe Wailuku – This hidden gem has been going strong since 1995…highly unusual in this day and age. But that says something about the food. We hadn’t been here in years, but made our way back up this last visit and I am so glad we did. Authentic and delicious SE Asia cuisine.
The Pour House
Sam Satos
Star Noodle
Take Out and Food Trucks Are Big Biz
There are many food trucks on the island, but I haven’t visited them all. But if you are interested in take out options check the YouTube video we did in 2020 Tasty Tuesday Maui Take Out Food. Our visit in January this year introduced us to a brand new food truck site South Maui Gardens. We really loved it and it’s beautifully hidden gem of a location. Check out their website to learn about live music, hula shows and much more at South Maui Gardens.
South Maui Gardens
South Maui Gardens
Feel free to share in the comments any other Maui restaurants you love. And I’ll take your recommendations and visit those restaurants when I return to Maui in the future. I still have several I need to visit so let me know your favorites!! Mahalo! Thank you for reading my post Maui Best Restaurants 2025.
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