Location: Mount Rainier National Park Washington State USA
Growing up in the Pacific Northwest I had no idea what a little paradise I lived in. As kids we never do. Only as an adult and after traveling all over the world did I truly grow to love Washington State and the Pacific Northwest. Today is the final post in my summer series. I hope you enjoy Hidden Gems of the PNW – Ashford to Paradise.
Myrtle Falls, Paradise Mount Rainier National Park
Ashford – Gateway to Mount Rainier National Park
We had avoided hiking in Mount Rainier for most of the summer, due to how busy it can be. But as fall came a knocking we started visiting The Mountain again. We hiked on the Sunrise side of Mount Rainier National Park two weeks in a row. Then, we decided to spend three days in Ashford with easy access to the Paradise side of Mount Rainier. I am so glad we did, a perfect hidden gem.
Whitaker’s Bunkhouse is one overnight option, and also a great place to have ice cream
History of Ashford
Ashford, Washington, was founded by Walter and Cora Ashford, who homesteaded there in the 1880s and platted the town in 1904. Named after the couple, Ashford became a railroad terminus for the Tacoma Eastern Railway, facilitating logging, mining, and importantly, tourism to the newly established Mount Rainier National Park. The impressive Ashford Mansion, built in 1903, served as a rural hotel and is a testament to the family’s success and the town’s connection to the park’s gateway.
Ashford General Store is small
Today there is not a lot to see and do in Ashford, except it is the perfect place to stay if you want easy access to the park. Ashford has a couple restaurants, a gas station and convenience store as well as a teeny market that does not offer much. But we came to stay at the Ashford Lodge.
Ashford Lodge
When I saw the vintage trailers that are part of the Ashford Lodge on Airbnb, I knew this was the perfect place for us. The Ashford Lodge has cabins as well as four vintage trailers set out in a field. Each trailer is authentically restored and includes a separate building next door for toilet and shower. We stayed in the Layla trailer, a vintage Shasta from the 1950’s. Layla is the largest lot of the four, and includes the biggest cherry tree I have ever seen, with a comfy hammock to enjoy.
The same trailer we had when I was a little kid. Somehow we slept six people in it in the 1960’s
We came prepared with enough food for our two nights and three days, and found the cooking set up reliable and the bed comfortable. We would certainly consider staying here again.
Beautiful restoration of the Shasta
Clean and functional toilet and shower
Peaceful
Paradise Lakes Trail
Mount Rainier National Park’s busiest area is definitely Paradise, home to the historic Paradise Inn and the very nice Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center (opened in 2008).No matter when you visit in the summer it will be busy though, and parking can be a challenge despite hundreds of parking spots. IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER Dogs are NOT allowed in the park, nor should you leave your pet in your car. Be smart and leave your animal at home.
We arrived about 9:30am on a gorgeous hot day, the day after Labor Day. The weather was hands down the hottest weather I have ever encountered at Mount Rainier, well over 80 degrees Fahrenheit at 7000 feet. The mountain too seemed to have the least amount of snow on it I can remember in my lifetime.
The Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center, Paradise
Lakes Trail on a glorious September day
Lakes Loop Trail
We found parking pretty easily and headed out to do a hike called the Lakes Loop Trail that we had never done before. Our first stop was Myrtle Falls. Getting to the park early meant we were able to take some beautiful photos of Myrtle Falls before the crowds descended. Often this destination, only 0.5 miles from the parking lot, is crawling with visitors.
At Myrtle Falls before the crowds arrived
After Myrtle Falls we continued on the Lakes Loop Trail. It was hot. We walked and climbed and enjoyed the spectacular views. We ran out of water though, even though we were carrying a lot. We returned to our car where a welcome seltzer awaited in the cooler. Such a great day.
We had the Lakes Loop Trail all to ourselves
Back to Ashford Lodge and our cute little Layla where we enjoyed dinner I had brought from home and relaxed with a glass of wine.
This isn’t roughing it
Paradise Skyline Loop
The weather was going to be hot again, so we got up early and entered the park at 6:50am. We were on the trail by 7:20am. The Skyline Loop Trail is the most popular trail for visitors to Mount Rainier. We had done this hike once before and loved it. On this day we encountered few visitors in the morning, but by afternoon it was busy again.
Beginning the climb on Skyline Loop as the sun comes up
Wildfires in the region cause the sun to have an eerie glow
The Skyline Loop trail is not for everyone. It takes anywhere from 4-5 hours depending on your ability and speed. It’s just over five miles total but includes some uneven rocky surfaces and loose shale crossing as well as an over all elevation gain of 1800 feet. But the views are what everyone comes for. On this day however, the Pacific Northwest was experiencing heavy smoke from several forest fires burning in the region. Forest fires in Washington State are not uncommon in late summer, although this problem has gotten much worse with climate change.
At the top of Skyline Loop. You can see the hazy smoke in the valley below.
Despite the smoke, such a beautiful day
Some of Skyline Loop is very rocky and loose
Wildlife in Mount Rainier National Park
In addition to the spectacular views, spotting wildlife and birds is a favorite part of visiting this spectacular park. While hiking the Skyline Loop Trail we were thrilled to see several mountain goats (caution these animals are dangerous and people have been killed), dozens of marmots, pika, chipmunks and a new to us bird, the white tailed ptarmigan.
Four mountain goats napping just off the trail
Marmots are common and not dangerous
Ashford and Elbe
There are a few other things you can do in Ashford as well as in neighboring Elbe. We visited the Ashford Creek Gallery, filled with art, pottery and historic images and books. We also really enjoyed visiting the Ashford Spirits of Iron Sculpture Park – home to a fantastic outdoor collection of art made from scrap metal. Very entertaining. Alder Lake is very close, although at the end of a long hot summer there was very little water in this reservoir lake. The water level changes seasonally.
Ashford Creek Pottery
Spirit of Iron Sculpture Park
We also made a brief visit to Elbe. Elbe grew as a logging town until the Alder Lake dam project in the 1940s flooded the valley. Today, Elbe is a small community known for its historic Elbe Evangelical Lutheran Church built in 1906, the Elbe Market Country Store, and its location on the route to Mount Rainier National Park, attracting tourists with its historic railroad depot, home to the Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad. We wanted to have breakfast in Elbe at the Mount Rainier Railroad Dining Company to eat in a railroad car. Alas they don’t open until 11am. If you want to visit be sure to check hours on their website.
Elbe’s Evangelico Lutheran Church
Elbe General Store and the Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad
Hidden Gems of the PNW – Ashford to Paradise
There are other hikes and activities in the region and I definitely think we will come back again, stay in cute little Layla and explore even more of Ashford to Paradise. I highly recommend you do too.
It’s been a great summer. More fun travel on the way! Thanks for your continued interest and support. We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts.
This is part two of our BC Canada Road Trip. I recently shared Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia. Boy did we enjoy seeing some of beautiful Vancouver Island. After our five days on the island we headed across on the ferry from Comox to continue our trip along the beautiful Sunshine Coast. Here is my story Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia Canada.
On board the ferry to Powell River from Comox
Part Two
Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia
The ferry from Comox requires a reservation, which we made well in advance at a cost of $73 CAD / $53 USD. It was a gorgeous day and the ferry ride was very scenic (we saw whales breaching in the distance). On arrival in Powell River we made a brief stop to pick up groceries before heading north on Hwy 101 about 30 minutes to the tiny town of Lund.
Welcome to Lund
Lund British Columbia
In case you haven’t made the connection, my last name is Lund. My husband’s family is Scandinavian and there is town in Sweden called Lund. The tiny village of Lund British Columbia is named after the city in Sweden. Lund, by the way, means grove.
Where is Lund?
For the past forty years Arne and I have talked about visiting Lund British Columbia. Yes I said forty. Good grief…once again why don’t we visit beautiful British Columbia more often? So when we were planning our summer 2025 I insisted we finally visit Lund.
History of Lund BC
Lund, British Columbia, is a historic village with a rich past, initially established by Swedish immigrants, the Thulin brothers, in 1889. Before European settlement, the area served as a winter campground for the Coast Salish people. The Thulins developed Lund into a thriving port, building a store, post office, hotel, and wharf.
Small harbor at Lund
Hike the Lund Loop
Today, Lund is a picturesque seaside village known for its harbor and access to Desolation Sound. It’s often referred to as the “End of the Road” as it’s the northern terminus of Highway 101. This highway is part of one of the longest highway networks in the world, running along the coast from Canada to Chile.
Desolation Sound
In the summer of 1792, two expeditions led by Captains George Vancouver, and Dionisio Alcalá Galiano and Cayetano Valdés y Flores arrived and cooperated in mapping the sound. Vancouver named it Desolation Sound, cryptically claiming that “there was not a single prospect that was pleasing to the eye” (credit Desolation Sound Resort).
Many watercraft at Lund
Today Lund is the hop off point for wonderful water adventures in Desolation Sound. People come from all over the world to kayak, fish, sail, and hike the region. Lund has a population of 1250, and sits on the traditional and unceded territory of the Tla’amin, Klahoose, and Homalco First Nations. The native name of Lund is Klah ah men. This name, given by the Coast Salish people thousands of years ago, reflects the historical significance of the Lund Harbor as a safe and sheltered place where people could interact, hunt, gather food, and launch canoes along the Salish Sea. It was a vibrant cultural hub important for practical everyday life as well as for storytelling and sharing traditions.
Two Short Days in Lund
We did not have much time in Lund, but we did do a self guided tour of the beautiful harbor and had a late lunch of poutine and beer at the waterfront restaurant The Boardwalk, before checking in to our Airbnb.
The Boardwalk is a popular restaurant on the water in Lund. Definitely visit.
When in Canada – Poutine
We loved our cute and comfortable and sparkling clean Airbnb and decided it was a good evening to relax and have dinner at home.
Great little Airbnb with kitchen just outside of the town of Lund
Next morning we were up early for a full day of hiking on the Sunshine Coast Trial.
We met a lot of through hikers enjoying a multi-day trek. But for us our seven mile round trip (we headed north from Malaspina Road) gave us some beautiful views of the sound as well as forests and birds. I highly recommend finding some time to hike a portion of the Sunshine Coast Trail.
View of Okeover Inlet
The Laughing Oyster
After a shower and relax back at our cute little Airbnb we headed out to Lund’s highest rated restaurant The Laughing Oyster. Located outside of the tiny Lund marina area, and technically in Powell River, The Laughing Oyster not only has great food but it has a spectacular view of Desolation Sound. I’m glad we were able to get a reservation, because the food plus the view were a perfect ending to our brief, beautiful and long awaited visit to Lund British Columbia.
Cheers to Lund
Delicious Sablefish
Don’t miss The Laughing Oyster when in Lund
Southbound
For the first time in more than a week we turned our trusty Subaru towards the south for the drive to Halfmoon Bay. Another ferry ride was included from Saltery Bay (about an hours drive) to Earls Bay. There are no reservations on this run. After we disembarked and at the recommendation of my blogger friend from Retired and Traveling we made a stop to hike to Skookumchuck (skuh·kuhm·chuhk) Narrows.
Another ferry ride
Skookumchuck Narrows
Wow. Don’t miss this place. We would have if our friend Linda hadn’t suggested it. It’s an easy 2 mile hike from the parking area down to the narrows. At the parking you will also find restrooms, food and other services. Here is what the BC Parks Webpage has to say about this fabulous natural phenomenon;
Skookumchuck Narrows
” Skookumchuck Narrows Park provides trails and viewing areas for visitors who wish to experience the awesome power of incredibly turbulent tidal rapids. On a three metre tide, 200 billion gallons of water flow through the narrows connecting Sechelt and Jervis Inlet.
So glad we came here
The rushing water was astonishing
The difference in water levels between one side of the rapids and the other sometimes exceeds two metres in height. Current speeds can exceed 30 km per hour. The rapids are famous for their spectacular whirlpools and whitewater.” Learn more here.
Enjoy a cinnamon roll at the Skookumchuck Bakery after your hike.
A little midday treat
Halfmoon Bay
We arrived at our cute accommodations, the Loghouse at Halfmoon Bay, in the afternoon. This is a wonderful spot in a quiet little cove. Comfortable ground floor room with a small outdoor space, the hosts provide you make-your-own breakfast goodies including eggs, cereal, yogurt, coffee and more. I would definitely stay here again.
Loghouse at Halfmoon Bay
By this time on our road trip we were feeling a bit tired, but we took a walk to see the small beach, ogle at the beautiful homes and enjoy the pier, before jumping in the shower and getting ready for dinner.
The small beach near our lodge
Gorgeous pier and homes
The travel blogger friend I mentioned above lives in the town of Sechelt, about 15 minutes drive south on the Sunshine Coast. We enjoyed a glass of wine at their beautiful condo, before heading into Sechelt for dinner at a waterside restaurant.
Sechelt
Sechelt (see·shelt) is known for its relaxed seaside vibe, beautiful natural scenery, and outdoor recreation opportunities. It has a quiet downtown area, beautiful views of the passage and Desolation Sound. Sechelt is a great jumping off point for all the recreation on the Sunshine Coast.
Next time we will stay longer in this cute little town.
Final Days
After being on the move for nine days, we decided to enjoy a quiet final day in Halfmoon Bay. We loved our little outdoor space and made use of it through the day while reading and doing some work on the laptop.
Halfmoon Bay
We had a casual early dinner at the historic Halfmoon Bay General Store . Operating since 1937, they recently reopened after a complete rebuild. It will continue to be a gathering place for the community of Halfmoon Bay with its indoor and outdoor seating area. We enjoyed a fresh-made sandwich and some beer sitting in the sun on the deck. The store also has a small selection of groceries and gifts. After our dinner we headed down to the pier to watch the sun set into the Pacific Ocean.
Refreshing local cider
Dinner at Halfmoon General
Sunset on our final night
Heading Home
Day ten and we woke up really early to drive the 45 minutes to the Langdale ferry terminal. The ferry crosses Howe Sound to take us to Horseshoe Bay, about a half hour’s drive on into Vancouver. The ferry is free in this direction (surprisingly) but still requires a reservation in the summer. We had a reservation for the 7am boat but actually got on the 6:30am. It was a stunning boat ride as the sun was coming up with the route weaving in and out of the islands.
Gorgeous morning
Originally we had planned to finish this trip with a couple of days in Vancouver, but due to commitments back home we had to cancel that part of our trip. Vancouver is a favorite destination though, and I hope to get back to that beautiful city again soon.
Sunrise from the ferry
Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia
Our ten day British Columbia road trip with part one on Vancouver Island and part two on the Sunshine Coast was better than we could have hoped. We loved all of our accommodations, the food, the sites, the history, the hiking, the sea…everything. The people are kind, the exchange rate is incredible, the ferry system is fairly priced and reliable. Wow. What more could you want?
Thank you Canada!
Thank you for reading Part Two of our BC Road Trip; Road Trip Sunshine Coast British Columbia. See last week’s post Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia here. Stay tuned for more fun travel posts coming to you soon!
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Canada. It’s my next door neighbor. All my life I have taken British Columbia for granted. It’s funny how close and yet so far it seems, having only visited Victoria and Whistler. I have spent the last decade traveling ALL OVER the world, but not really considering my closest neighbor and friend, beautiful British Columbia, Canada. So summer 2025 I committed to visiting and enjoying this remarkable place. Here is my story Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia.
Mackenzie Beach Tofino BC
Oh Canada
My last visit to Canada was when we traveled across Canada pulling our pink trailer “Betty” in 2016. That was the very start of the Grand Adventure…seems like a lifetime ago. A lot has happened since then, but I have great memories of that trip and the kind people, amazing nature and interesting history along the way. That trip gave us the opportunity to visit six provinces bringing our total to eight of the thirteen. It’s a huge country, and I doubt we will ever see it’s most remote regions. But we have no excuse not to have seen more of British Columbia, less than two hours from our home in Washington State. Thus our Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia.
Ontario Canada in our ’63 Aloha trailer named Betty
Middle Beach Tofino Vancouver Island
Part One
We broke our ten day trip into two parts; part one Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia and part two the Sunshine Coast on the mainland. So I have broken my blog posts also into two parts as well. Today I present part one Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia. We spent five days, and easily could have spent two weeks on Vancouver Island alone. We will be back. Here is what we saw.
Port Angeles Washington
We took our time driving from our home in Port Orchard Washington to Port Angeles Washington, about a two hour drive. It’s one of my favorite drives close to our home, traversing over the Hood Canal Bridge and stopping on Marrowstone Island, Chimacum (CHEM-ə-kəm) and Sequim (skwim). Because our reservation on the Black Ball Ferry was very early in the morning, we spent the night in the simple but comfortable Olympic View Inn.
Marrowstone Island
Finn River Cidery
Finn River Cidery
Sequim is famous for lavender
Black Ball Ferry
Sunrise at the Ferry terminal Port Angeles
Day Two we were up very early and in line for the ferry by 6:15am. This ferry requires an advance reservation which can be made at the Black Ball Ferry line website. Cost for car, driver and passenger was $101 plus a $12 reservation fee. It is a 90 min crossing, calm on this day but it can get rough. We some how lucked out and were the very first car off the boat, breezed through passport control and were on our way within minutes. No time in Victoria this trip, but if you haven’t visited Victoria it is a must on a first-timers Vancouver Island itinerary. At least one night and two is better.
On the ferry to Canada
Duncan
Instead of time in Victoria we headed directly to the small historic town of Duncan. It’s an easy drive, less than hour from the ferry terminal in Victoria.
Today, Duncan is the commercial center of the Cowichan (kow·wee·chn) Region and attracts visitors to its trendy boutiques, art and antique galleries. It is also known as the “City of Totems” and that is what attracted us to the beautiful small town. Some 80 carved totem poles depicting the historic legends of the First Nations are easy to see with a self-guided walking tour through the historic core.
Historic and beautiful little town
Chemainus
Less than half an hour drive north from Duncan, we found ourselves in another small historic British Columbia town known as Chemainus (She-MAY-nus). I met a woman several decades ago who was from Chemainus and she told me about the Chemainus Murals. I’ve been wanting to see them ever since.
Chemainus Murals
It’s a treasure hunt to find each one
Chemainus History
Chemainus, BC, began as an unincorporated logging and seaport town in 1858, with its name derived from the Stz’uminus First Nation.
This one is my fav
Chemainus Murals
The town transformed in the 1980s when it embraced a unique mural project to revitalize its economy after the closure of its main industry. Today, Chemainus is known as “The Little Town That Did” and “The Mural Town,” featuring over 50 outdoor murals and sculptures that depict the town’s history and culture.
Lunchtime
We really enjoyed our self-guided mural walk, as well as a lovely lunch on a beautiful sunny BC day. After lunch we walked down to the lower town, home to the mill and shops. Chemainus is definitely worth a couple hours on your road trip.
Some beautiful parks in Chemainus
Lots of views
Ladysmith
Just another 15 minutes drive north of Chemainus, we took a moment to visit the historic town of Ladysmith.
Welcome to Ladysmith
Historic First Avenue
Ladysmith History
Ladysmith, British Columbia, began as Oyster Harbour, a settlement established by James Dunsmuir in 1898 to support his coal mining operations. The town was renamed Ladysmith in 1900 to commemorate the British lifting the siege of Ladysmith, South Africa, during the Second Boer War. The town was officially incorporated in 1904.
A brief stop in Ladysmith is worth it
Ladysmith First Ave
The heart of this tiny town is Historic First Avenue. Worth a stroll to shop, dine and admire the historic buildings, some under renovation. We also took time to visit and stroll along the beautiful Transfer Beach park and beach.
Nanaimo
The day was growing short but we wanted to make a brief stop in Nanaimo (nuh·nai·mow), although frankly we should have stayed longer and will next time.
Nanaimo History
Nanaimo’s history is deeply rooted in its Indigenous peoples, the Snuneymuxw (snoo-NAY-muxw), and the arrival of European settlers. Initially, it was known as Colvilletown, established by the Hudson’s Bay Company around a trading post. The name Nanaimo, derived from the Snuneymuxw word “Sne-ny-mo,” meaning “a big, strong tribe,” was adopted in 1860. The city’s development was significantly influenced by the discovery of coal in the area, leading to a boom in mining and industry.
Red’s Bakery Nanaimo
Nanaimo Bars
We came for the Nanaimo Bars. Nanaimo bars, a no-bake dessert, are named after the city of Nanaimo. The bars are believed to have originated in the 1950s, with the earliest known recipe appearing in a 1952 cookbook. While the exact origin story is debated, the bars gained significant popularity in the 1980s, particularly after a contest to find the “ultimate” Nanaimo bar recipe. After a Google search we ended up enjoying a very rich and delicious Nanaimo Bar at Red’s Bakery. Definitely worth a visit.
Rich and chocolaty
Delicious
Qualicum Beach
After a long day with an early wake up we were happy to arrive at our spot for the night in Qualicum (kwaa·luh·km) Beach. We were pretty tired, and did not have a lot of time to see any sites in Qualicum Beach. But we got settled into a little Bed and Breakfast Oceanside Manor and then headed out for a walk along the ocean promenade. The weather was excellent and the views as well and we stopped to enjoy delicious fish and chips in the sun. On our next visit to BC I would plan a full day here as well as considering continuing north to Campbell River. We will save that for next time.
Oceanside Manor
Qualicum Beach promenade
Perfect weather for outdoor dining
Westward Ho
Our hosts at Oceanside Manor made sure we had a delicious and hearty breakfast before saying our farewells and heading West across the island. I enjoyed this drive immensely as we took our time to enjoy the spectacular scenery of the interior of Vancouver Island on our way to Tofino..
Salmon Infused Eggs on Avocado Toast. Wow.
Cathedral Grove
One of my favorite things we did on this entire trip was this hike in Cathedral Grove, also known as MacMillan Park. Less than 30 minutes from Qualicum Beach. Beware! Parking is limited. We got lucky and found a spot that allowed us to enjoy the trails that are located on both sides of the road. Technically you are not supposed to cross the road, there are no crosswalks or safe crossings. We did manage it however, and found the nature on both sides astonishing. You might consider doing the trails on the north side one day, and on your return east you could hike the south side trails.
Big Douglas Fir Trees
Lots of Big Trees
The Cathedral Grove trails are home to some of the oldest, largest and most beautiful Douglas Firs in the world. Certainly worth a visit. The trails are flat, easy and should be manageable for most abilities. Some of the walking is done on raised boardwalks, protecting the fragile ecosystem. Does this place look familiar to you? Famed director George Lucas shot scenes for Star Wars VI: Return of the Jedi here, using the larger-than-life trees as the backdrop for the Ewoks home planet of Endor. Don’t miss this stunning forest.
Majestic
Hole in the Wall
Not easy to find, or to park. About 20 minutes west of Cathedral Grove you will come to Port Alberni, home of Hole in the Wall. We turned around at the Coombs Candy Store and parked back up Highway 4 about 100 yards, just along the busy highway. Didn’t feel very safe, but there were other cars parked there too. The hike is short and pretty easy along logging roads. I hear it can be mucky in the winter but in the summer dry and nice. If you are inclined, swimming at Hole in the Wall is popular, but we did not. The hole was once a shortcut for the city’s waterline and today is a picturesque waterfall on Vancouver Island.
Lake Kennedy
Continuing on Hwy 4 west we found ourselves hugging the shores of beautiful Kennedy lake, which is the largest lake on the island with a surface area of 6,475 hectares (16,000 acres), according to Wikipedia. It has an irregular shape with two distinct basins, the Main Arm and the Clayoquot (klah-WOK-wət) Arm, connected by a narrow channel. There are several spots to stop and enjoy views of the lake.
Vancouver Island’s largest lake, Lake Kennedy
Ucluelet
Prior to checking into our hotel in Tofino, we made a brief stop in the town of Ucluelet (you-KLEE-let), about 30 minutes south of Tofino. Ucluelet is a popular tourism destination for kayaking, surfing and family fun on the beach. It has a rich history as one of the oldest settlements on Vancouver Island. The name derives from the Nuu-chah-nulth phrase “Yu-clutl-ahts,” meaning “people with a good landing place for canoes”. The Yuułuʔiłʔatḥ First Nation, who have lived in the area for thousands of years, call it “Ucluelet,” which translates to “people of the safe harbour”.
Wild Pacific Trail Hike in Ucluelet
Picturesque Ucluelet
We took some time to walk the very easy and scenic Lighthouse Loop section of the Wild Pacific Trail along a beautiful bluff overlooking the ocean. It was quite busy on a sunny Sunday but easy to see why it was so popular. A great walk with kids and there is also a small museum. Definitely worth a few hours or even an overnight in Ucluelet.
Wild Pacific Trail, Ucluelet
Tofino
It was a long but lovely day in and out of the car and we were happy to arrive at our destination in Tofino (tuh·fee·now). We had booked a room at the stunning Middle Beach Lodge and were excited to find our room had a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean, with a small deck to sit and enjoy it. Middle Beach Lodge has a large variety of room choices, from small two person rooms like ours to large cabins and their new “tree house” rooms both which accommodate more people. I really loved this place and would like to come back with my adult children for a longer stay. Our room with view was only $190 Canadian per night ($140 USD) with breakfast included.
Middle Beach Lodge
Room with a View
MacKenzie Beach
On arrival we just relaxed, walked the property and went on a short hike to the long and beautiful Mackenzie Beach, before dinner. Middle Beach Lodge offers a nightly prix fixe dinner for guests. We had pre-booked it for our first night. It was outstanding, included a welcome glass of wine, crab cake appetizers, serve yourself salad and bread, followed by the main course of locally caught ling cod. Dessert too. Price was $60 Canadian (44 USD), and totally worth the price.
Dinner with a view
Crabcakes my favorite
Tofino Day Two
After an incredible breakfast included with our room at the Middle Beach Lodge we headed out to hike the forested bluff Tonquin trail into the town of Tofino. It’s an easy 2 mile trail with gorgeous views. Definitely worth it instead of driving. We spent several hours exploring the small town, visiting shops and historic sites and reveling in the gorgeous weather before retracing our steps on the bluff trail back to the lodge.
After a shower we drove back into town. Our first stop was Tofino Brewing Company, a popular spot for locals and visitors. We really enjoyed a cold brew and the vibe of the industrial taproom.
A must visit when in Tofino
Tofino Brewing Company
We had pre-booked dinner at one of Tofino’s highest rated restaurants, The Wolf in the Fog. We booked an early spot at 5:15, and were amazed how fast it filled by 5:30. I highly recommend you get a reservation. An inventive and local menu was delicious and the prices were surprisingly good for a semi-fine dining experience.
Wolf in the Fog
Inventive Pirogi
Ribs!
Final Tofino Day
It’s our last day in Tofino and the weather has taken a turn to gray. No worries, we are PNW people! Today we had pre-booked a water taxi (open air) out to Meares Island to do a rugged hike.
Tofino Water Taxi (round trip $40 CAD / $29 USD) met us and a handful of other people on the First Street Dock for the ten minute ride across the bay to Meares. Here we found the Big Tree Trail….a popular but difficult walk through the woods.
That’s our water taxi coming in
Onboard the Tofino Water Taxi
The BigTree Trail is not long, but it is very rough with roots and rocks, mud and includes rough hewn cedar plank raised boardwalk through much of the trail. It took us two hours to go three miles. BUT, if you are up to this hike, you will enjoy some of the most incredible old growth cedar trees I have seen anywhere in my life. Other plant life, birds too. And the boat ride both directions gives you a wonderful view back to Tofino and of the surrounding islands.
Gotta watch your every step
Gigantic Cedar Trees on the Big Trees Trail
Headed back after an adventurous day
Final Evening
Back to our lodge via the Tonquin trail, where we showered and got ready for our final evening in Tofino. First stop happy hour at Middle Beach Lodge, enjoying a gin and tonic and the gorgeous views. Happy Hour is every evening at Middle Beach Lodge from 4-7. Next we headed back into town in the car to dinner at Shelter Restaurant. This restaurant is very popular with visitors and locals for its delicious local menu as well as water view. I really enjoyed the fresh mussels. Highly recommend.
Dinner with a view at Shelter Restaurant
Lots of boaters at Shelter Restaurant
Delicious Muscles and Frites at Shelter
Reverse Gears to Comox
I could easily have spent a few more days in Tofino, and at the wonderful Middle Beach Lodge. But alas our time was over. We began the trek back east across the island where we would catch the ferry to the mainland at Comox. Our ferry reservation was at 3:00pm, so we enjoyed the drive, which took about 3.5 hours.
Heading to mainland BC
More to See
There is much more on the upper island to see, but it was time to move on to our second part of our trip, the Sunshine Coast. I guess we will need another Vancouver road trip soon. Meanwhile, come back next week for more about our time on British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast.
Beautiful Vancouver Island
Thanks for reading my post Road Trip Vancouver Island British Columbia. I hope you can use this post as a tool for your own Vancouver Island road trip. Watch for Part Two of our British Columbia Road Trip on the Sunshine Coast. Be sure and see last week’s post Tracking Trolls in the Pacific Northwest. We love it when you share, pin, comment and engage with our blog posts. Thank you.
This book showed up on a must read list I follow and since it is really long, it seemed like a good one to listen to on Audible in the car. More than 28 hours of listening it is an epic story, book one of two, and I was transfixed. Here is my book review The Will of the Many by James Islington.
The Future?
It’s never exactly clear if this fantasy novel is Earth in the future or something else. It’s a dystopian society that is both backward and forward of where we are on present day Earth. And yet it is also a mysterious place, where personal “Will” can be traded or “ceded” for favor, and those with more “Will” are the Hierarchy of this society known as The Catenan Republic.
Secrets
Vis Telimus is not who most people think he is. Keeping his real identify secret, he feigns being an orphan after a tragic accident. He is “adopted” by the powerful Magnus Quintus Ulciscor Telimus. Ulciscor places Vis in the prestigious Catenan Academy to find out answers to secrets. But Ulciscor’s wife has her own answers she is searching for. Vis is a spy for both, all while knowing if they knew his real identify they would kill him.
Rising Through the Ranks
Vis must rise through the ranks of the Academy, and try to make friends while learning as much as he can about the Hierarchy, a murder, a secret chamber and what is really going on behind this “civilized society”. A lot for a young man who really wants justice for his own family’s murder.
Book One of Two
When I started this book I did not realize it would leave me hanging in the end…as we wait for the second book scheduled for November 2025. The novel is a bit Harry Potter, a bit Hunger Games and a bit Lord of the Flies, all while most definitely not YA. I was intrigued by the story, though complicated, left with many questions at the end, and looking forward to what will happen in the next installment.
Book Review The Will of the Many by James Islington
Thank you for reading my book review The Will of the Many by James Islington. I really recommend it if you are looking for an epic story with intrigue and fantasy.
“To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive.” – Robert Louis Stevenson.
The question I get most often from people about our travels is “what’s your favorite country?” Honestly, I don’t love that question, because after visiting 147 countries, there are really only a handful I wouldn’t return to. Certainly, there are ones I like more than others…but choosing a favorite? Impossible. When I look back at all my travels, I find I am most fond of the countries that were unexpected for beauty, kindness, cost, culture, food and people. Some of our favorite experiences have been in lesser traveled destinations, where we met few other people like us. And today with over-tourism in places like France and Spain – finding the hidden gems is our goal and pleasure. So instead of telling you what my favorite country is, let me encourage you to travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries, full of adventure with fewer crowds.
EUROPE
I have visited almost all the European countries in Western, Eastern and Central Europe. There are still a few on my list. And though I of course have enjoyed time in the most popular countries like France, Spain and Italy, these are not on today’s list. You probably have also visited places like France, Spain and Italy, but have you considered travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries?
Poland
Poland
Why go to Poland?
Poland has everything the other European countries have, but it is so underrated as a destination. We spent three week traveling around Poland (by train) and loved it. The history, particularly WWII, is astonishing. The food (pierogies for the win!) is outstanding and the cities are gorgeous. Poland was home to Frederic Chopin, Marie Curie, Roman Polanski, Helena Rubenstein and many more. Poland has a rich arts and music culture, beautiful public squares, many performance facilities, and delicious food. Not all Poles speak English, but that adds to the charm of the place, and we absolutely loved all the wonderful locals we met.
Don’t Miss
Krakow for the beautiful square, musical performances, and a tour to Auschwitz. Don’t miss the small towns of Poznan and Wroclaw. Be sure to visit Warsaw to learn about the Jewish Ghetto and to see the public art. See posts I wrote about the amazing food of Poland here.
Bulgaria
Bulgaria
Why go to Bulgaria?
We spent the month of June in Bulgaria early in the Grand Adventure travels. We chose Bulgaria because it is not in the Schengen so it did not count against our 90 Schengen days for other Europe countries. But we were so unexpectedly enamored of the food, the fabulous history and beaches. And it remains one of the least expensive countries we have ever visited.
Bulgaria has surprising Roman ruins that you can visit without any other tourists around. We met some of the most amazing people, who were so genuinely grateful that we chose their country. Even those we met who spoke no English were so happy to meet us, and hugging was not uncommon. Bulgaria, like many Eastern European countries has had many conflicts and political changes over the millennia. But the people take it in stride and are proud and patriotic. Bulgaria is popular with Russian tourists and we met only one other American couple during our 30 day visit.
Don’t Miss
Sofia the capital has incredible history right under foot. Veliko Tarnova was our favorite, a fabulous mountain town built hanging above a river. Great hiking there. And Sozopol on the Black Sea was gorgeous and the beach here was incredible.
Malta
Malta
Why Go to Malta?
Becoming more popular, but still under the radar, this island nation was such a big surprise. If you go consider spring or fall, not during the summer when it does get crowded. We stayed in the city of Valletta, which reminded me of Dubrovnik. It is a magical place. We rented a car a couple of days to get outside of Valletta and visit Peter’s Pool, Blue Grotto, Mdina & Rabat. We took a day trip to the tiny island of Gozo, which would be worth a longer stay if you had the time. Everyone speaks English, but Malta has its own language as well called Maltese. I would love to go back to this relaxing, beautiful and unique place.
Don’t Miss
Valletta is beautiful, has cheap and delicious food and wine. Read all about our wonderful visit here Marvelous Malta.
Georgia
Georgia
Why Go to Georgia?
Last fall we visited the Eastern European countries of Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan over a three week period. We loved them all but Georgia really settled into a place in my heart. We spent the majority of our time in the capital city of Tbilisi, with some incredible daytrips outside of town to see the mountainous beauty of this country. Everyone spoke English and the people were kind and welcoming. Georgia struggled after the fall of the USSR but has come back strong. Yet like many countries around the world, mine included, an authoritarian leader has emerged, and the people are once again fighting for their rights. I loved the resilience of these people and the patriotism.
Don’t Miss
The food. Unexpected and incredible, the unique cuisine of Georgia is one of the best in the world. I took a food tour and a wine tasting tour (their wine is incredible) and loved every mouthful. Be sure to visit the thermal baths in the city of Tbilisi and make the trek to Kazbegi and Gudauri – stunningly beautiful. Read more about why I love Georgia here.
Cyprus
Cyprus
Why Go to Cyprus?
Cyprus will forever be in my heart because of the many kindnesses afforded us when we were locked down on this island nation in the early days of the world-wide pandemic. We were very lucky to find ourselves stuck here, despite not being able to move around the island. Luckily we made friends and felt safe and had everything we needed. We loved the people so much, two years later we returned for a ten day visit without restrictions. Read about it here.
Don’t Miss
Incredible UNESCO heritage sites throughout the island. Beaches that rival anywhere. Take a tour and cooking class with Cyprus Taste Tours. Eat all the food that is much like Greek, but also very much it’s own. If you are so inclined, you can walk across the UN Protected Border to Northern Cyprus for lunch and then walk back.
CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICA
There are handful of countries, mostly island nations, I still have not visited in Central and South America. But I have spent a lot of time in the most popular destinations like Costa Rica, Belize, Brazil and Argentina. But the ones I had my favorite experiences in were;
Honduras (Roatan)
Roatan Honduras
Why Go to Roatan?
The island of Roatan, just off mainland Honduras, is not plagued with some of the crime and issues found on the mainland. And direct flights to the island from Miami are easy, skipping going through the mainland. We spent an entire month in the tiny town of West End, and loved the relaxed Caribbean vibe. Though the beaches in the town were not great, there are many beaches on the island that are remarkable. If you don’t have a car, it can be difficult to get groceries, but we found a driver who was helpful to us when we wanted to tour or to go to the super market. It’s a very laid back experience and worth a visit.
Don’t Miss
Do an island tour with a guide to hit the main spots around the small island including the most beautiful beaches, hidden restaurants and the local microbrewery. Other fun spots including Daniel Johnson’s Sloth Sanctuary and the Roatan Botanical Gardens. Read about our Favorite Things in Roatan here.
Guatemala
Guatemala
Why Go to Guatemala?
We enjoyed a self-guided three week tour of Guatemala, arriving by a small open air boat from Belize. Our visit included Lake Flora and Tikal Mayan Ruins. We adored Antigua and were witness to the spectacle of Semana Santa over Easter. And we left our heart in Lake Atitlan…one of the most beautiful and peaceful places I have ever been. The people are quiet and kind. Curious and welcoming. Few people speak English except in the cities, but we had no problems.
Don’t Miss
Gorgeous and historic Antigua is incredible. Do a walking tour, history tour and take a Cooking Class. Lake Flora and Tikal are incredible for the beauty and history. And sit back and relax for a few days at hidden Lake Atitlan. Read more what I loved about Guatemala here.
Bolivia
Bolivia
Why Go to Bolivia?
Long on my bucket list, Bolivia did not disappoint. A remarkable place. Difficult to get around as an independent traveler (but not impossible), we chose to do a group tour while in Bolivia. We have no regrets about that choice – Intrepid Travel and our guide made the experience unforgettable. I recommend it highly. Bolivia has its issues (like everywhere) but it is fast becoming a popular tourist destination. I recommend you go soon.
Don’t Miss
La Paz was astonishing and seeing the way of life at 12,000 feet is worth the trip. Hands down the best thing in this country is the Uyuni Salt Flats. Stunningly beautiful and indescribable . Reaching the highest altitude I have ever been at was worth it for the views, even though I was sick for a couple of days. Read more about our ten day tour and all we did here. Go to Bolivia!
AFRICA
The continent of Africa is huge, and incredibly diverse. Each of the 54 nations that make up Africa have their own cultures, foods, geology, history, language and people. No two are alike, and it’s one of the reasons we have enjoyed visiting this continent on several occasions. I encourage you to travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries –
Namibia
Namibia
Why Go to Namibia
When we get the question “What is our favorite country?”, we often list off a dozen or so, and Namibia is always on that list. We had one of our most favorite travel experiences in Namibia. We hired a guide from Wild Wind Safaris to take us for ten days around this remarkably diverse country, and we loved every minute of it. From ocean to mountain to the best safari of our three, Namibia has it all. Learn about our Safari here. Learn about the rest of Namibia here.
Don’t Miss
Everything about Namibia was incredible. If you don’t have ten days though, do a shorter tour and don’t miss Etosha National Park (mind blown) and the astonishing Sossusvlei Dunes. Otherworldly.
Madagascar
Madagascar
Why Go to Madagascar?
Oh My Gosh – it is awesome. The people in Madagascar are generally very poor, but they are also the hardest working people I have ever met. Other than in the very large and crowded capital city of Antananarivo, we felt so safe and welcome. The reason to visit Madagascar is for the incredible nature and wildlife – particularly the lemurs, found nowhere else in the world. We did a private tour (there are so many tour companies to choose from) and really felt we saw a lot of the country in ten days. However, there is much we didn’t see, and I would love to go back. Read here about why I am Mad about Madagascar.
Don’t Miss
Most tours will take you on generally the same route. You definitely want to see Avenue of the Baobabs (also called Baobab Alley), and lemurs, lemurs, lemurs! I had no idea there were so many different kinds. I also LOVED all the chameleons, and others: lizards, insects, butterflies and birds. Be sure and have your guide take you on a night walk – fascinating!
ASIA
Central, East and SE Asia all have a wide variety of culture and people, and the food is also incredible everywhere you go. I loved Vietnam and Japan and Indonesia but I encourage you to step out of the box and consider:
The Stans
The Stans
Why Go to the Stan Countries
Okay so what are The Stans? When I refer to The Stans I am talking about the five Central Asian nations of Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. We visited all five of these countries on a 28 day tour with Intrepid travel last fall. I LOVED IT! I was worried about a 28 day tour but Intrepid is so great, our guide was incredible and each of these countries offered all that I dream of in a destination. History, culture, nature, beauty, food….and so much more. Did I have a favorite? Nope. But Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan definitely stand out.
Don’t Miss
The incredible cities of Samarkand and Khiva in Uzbekistan. The night market in Khujand, Tajikistan. Hiking Charyn Canyon and Issyk Lake in Kazakstan, Skazka Canyon and eagle hunting in Kyrgyzstan. Check out Intrepid’s tours to this remarkable region of Asia. I can’t say enough good things about the experience.
Borneo
Borneo
Why Go to Borneo
We made a quick visit to Borneo from Malaysia (where we spent a month) specifically to see the endangered orangutans. We stayed at the incredible Sepilok Forest Edge Resort, right next door to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center. Not a zoo but a place for endangered orangutans to come, at their own free will, to get additional and much needed nourishment. Seeing these creatures, not behind fences, but walking around the wild was so astonishing. I loved it so much.
Don’t Miss
Don’t miss the Sepilok Orangutan Center, and the nearby Labak Bay Proboscis Monkey Reserve. Both incredible. I highly recommend staying at the Sepilok Forest Edge Resort, and if it’s the season, sign up for an evening firefly boat ride.
Philippines
Philippines
Why Go to the Philippines
I have to say, our month on the Philippine island of Panglao was one of the most unexpectedly pleasant places we have been anywhere in the world. It was our first time in the Philippines, and we really had no expectations. What we found was sunshine, inexpensive restaurants, kind people, beautiful beaches and THOUSANDS of scooters.
Don’t Miss
One of our most astonishing days on Bohol was visiting the Philippine Tarsier Foundation Sanctuary and getting up close and personal with the endangered, fascinating and teeny Tarsier. Our other absolutely do-not-miss thing is snorkeling with a guide off of Napaling Reef on the NW side of Panglao. One of my favorite snorkeling experiences ever.
OCEANIA & SOUTH PACIFIC
Sometimes overlooked and misunderstood, this vast area of 14 island nations is difficult to get to, thus less touristed. But so worth it. Australia and New Zealand, two of our favorite countries, are totally worth visiting. And many people do visit, despite how difficult they are to reach. Although we are not planning to see all of the islands in this region, we do hope to visit a few more in the years ahead. So beyond Australia and New Zealand you should consider something completely different;
French Polynesia
French Polynesia
Why Go to French Polynesia
Often mistakenly referred to as Tahiti, the island nation of French Polynesia is made up of 118 islands, one of which is Tahiti. We spent seven weeks on the island of Moorea, with a quick three days on Bora Bora. I loved the laid back island vibe of Moorea, even though there isn’t much going on. We hiked, snorkeled, relaxed, ate great seafood and loved every day. Moorea is a big dive destination too.
Don’t Miss
Moorea can be reached by ferry from Papeete, Tahiti where the international airport is. But to access other islands there is also a small airport on Moorea. We loved our food tour, learning about the unique local cuisine, a mix of many immigrants and islanders. I also took two cooking classes with CookLab Cooking School, and we loved a day trip to Coco Beach.
Papua New Guinea
Papua New Guinea
Why Go to Papua New Guinea
A caveat. This country is not for everyone. It was not a pleasure cruise. Papua New Guinea has lots of issues from crime to poor water and bad infrastructure. But, it also has one of the most ancient cultures still remaining on this planet. It was eye-opening to attend the annual Goroka Festival, where more than 100 tribes descend to spend a weekend dancing and celebrating in their native costume. I will never forget it.
Don’t Miss
The Goroka Festival. Hands down one of the most incredible cultural experiences of my life. Village visit – make sure you have a tour that will take you into the villages to see this ancient way of life on this remote island. Our tour also included some amazing bird watching excursions – and we saw the elusive bird of paradise. It’s far from five-star hotels and first class dining, but it will make you a better person.
Travel to These Unexpectedly Amazing Countries
“We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.” – Unknown.
We have worked hard, given up a lot, but have no regrets about the travel life we have created. I know some of the places we visit are not for everyone. But I implore you to consider travel to these unexpectedly amazing countries. Choose wisely in this time of both political and travel unrest. Be courteous and kind to host countries, and be aware of the impact you are making. The world is huge. There are so many undiscovered places to visit, many without millions of other tourists crowding the sites and restaurants. Be an explorer not a tourist. Just go.
PLEASE NOTE – we are heading out for the first of two North American road trips this summer. I will be posting regularly on Instagram but will not have a blog post on Friday for a few weeks. Wednesday Book Reviews will continue. Follow us on Instagram here.
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One of the most frequent questions I get asked is; “How do you find information and decide where to go and what to do when making travel plans?” In today’s world where we have a computer in our pocket, it is so incredibly easy! I can’t imagine trying to live a full-time travel life 30 years ago without the instant access we have now. Today travel apps, travel blogs and Pinterest are my go to source for ideas on places to travel and things to do.
That said, it can also be overwhelming because there is SO MUCH information out there. Where to start? I recommend you narrow it down and one of my favorite apps is GPSMyCity. You have seen me mention GPSMyCity multiple times in my blog posts over the years. It is a great place to get guided map tours, as well as read travel articles from experienced travel writers…like me! It’s fun to Travel Smart and Easy with GPS My City App.
Why GPS My City?
This app is great…and it just keeps getting better. For years we have used it for guided walking tour all around the world. Now, travel writers like myself will have featured articles you can download directly through the GPSMyCity App. Once downloaded it will be available to you to use, even without internet connection.
I am partnering with GPSMyCity, as one of their featured travel writers. For a limited time (July 7-21, 2025) my readers will have access via the GPSMyCity app to three of my articles FREE of charge;
It’s an awesome opportunity to check out GPSMyCity, and get to know a fabulous travel planning tool. A tool that I have used around the world in many of the 147 countries to learn, grow and experience the rich cultures and history of the world. Just like me, you can Travel Smart and Easy with GPS My City App.
Next use the search bar to type in any destination. Chances are good you will find a travel article (maybe mine!) for the destination you want to explore.
Next download the articles so you have access to them offline…then get ready to explore!
Try It Today
Want to try it? You definitely should. Click and get started at www.GPSMyCity.com and be sure to check out my free featured articles between July 7-21 so you can Travel Smart and Easy with GPS My City App.
Port Gamble, Washington, at the northern tip of the Kitsap Peninsula, is a historic mill town. Founded in 1853 by Pope and Talbot’s Puget Mill Company. Originally known as Teekalet, the name was changed to Port Gamble after the bay it is situated on. Let me tell you about one of my favorite Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Port Gamble Washington.
Stroll around this preserved mill town
History
Founders Josiah Keller, William Talbot, and Andrew Pope developed the company town reflecting the New England style of East Machias, Maine. Port Gamble served as a lumber community, shipping lumber worldwide. After 142 years, the mill closed in 1995. The town has been preserved as a National Historic Landmark District, showcasing its unique 19th-century architecture.
So many historic buildings to admire
Entrance to the Historic Museum
Registered Historic Landmark
Where is Port Gamble
It’s a perfect stop for travelers headed to the Olympic Peninsula via Bainbridge Island or the Kitsap Peninsula. An unincorporated community, it is part of the Port Gamble Historic District, a National Historic Landmark. Port Gamble sits on the west side of of Port Gamble Bay and near the shores of Hood Canal. The Port Gamble S’Kallam Reservation is on the east side. It is definitely a Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Port Gamble Washington.
A perfect place to order a take away lunch and wander down to the picnic tables with a view. Easy to order ahead on the website. There are a few tables inside too and a great espresso stand.
Butcher Baker Provisions is housed in a historic service station
Shared this giant fried chicken sandwich with my mom. It was amazing
You must spend some time in this unique shop with a wonderful selection of unique items. For gifts or for yourself, it’s hard to leave the Port Gamble General Store without a treasure. A small cafe in the back serves sandwiches and ice cream. A new restaurant is slated for late 2025 as well.
With extra time you should visit this lovely forested 3500 acre park. Trails for walking, biking, and horses, and access to water for kayaks. Just south of the town of Port Gamble.
Port Gamble Heritage Forest Park
Make a Visit
Port Gamble is close to many other fabulous Kitsap Peninsula destinations like Poulsbo and Bainbridge. It is also an easy day trip from Bremerton, Tacoma, or Seattle. Make a visit to this true hidden gem, and step back in time for a perfect day. It is a favorite Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Port Gamble Washington.
You may read this title and think – Portland is not a hidden gem. I absolutely agree! Quirky and delicious Portland is far from a hidden gem. It is a well known Oregon destination and Oregon’s largest city (620,000). But tucked away in its fabulous little neighborhoods are many wonderful places that are hidden gems. And a few of those I am going to share with you in today’s post, Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Portland Oregon. And don’t miss a special offer in this post for a special Portland tour…
Welcome to Oregon
Portlandia
The land of Portland is home to many iconic places including Powell’s City Books, Voodoo Donuts, The Pearl, Oregon Museum of Science and Industry, Portland Japanese Garden, McMenamins and the Portland Trail Blazers – to name a few. All of these awesome and well known. But on our recent visit to Portland we set out to visit new to us places. We were looking for places that locals likely know, but me as a visitor had yet to explore. We found a colorful and fun collection of Portland treasures. So here they are, my hidden gems of the Pacific Northwest – Portland Oregon. I welcome you to add more in the comments!
The famous Portland Oregon sign
Go Outside
My visits to Portland have always been brief – a day or two at the most. But I had a little more time on this long weekend, so we made a point to enjoy some outdoor hiking and flower sniffing;
This immense urban forest park covers more than 5100 acres with over 80 miles of trails. We were astonished by the vast park just west of the city of Portland. We did a five mile hike through thick forests and shared the trail with a few other hikers, walkers and mountain bikers. It was beautiful, peaceful and a true hidden gem.
Not to be missed, the hillside Hoyt Arboretum is a testament to Portland’s forefathers who valued forests and education and had the foresight to preserve this beautiful space. Open year around and FREE OF CHARGE this amazing park is home to 2300 species from around the world. I highly recommend it..
I don’t know how I have never been here. We were lucky to visit during the peak of rose season, and we absolutely marveled in this free park, home to 10,000 individual rose bushes. Founded in 1889, the Portland Rose Society is a nonprofit organization offering educational programs on rose culture and encouraging the use of roses in the landscape. The primary purpose of the garden is to serve as a testing ground for new rose varieties. I will certainly visit here again in the future.
A definite hidden gem. I will stay here again. We chose this hotel because it was close to Keller Auditorium where we were seeing Elvis Costello in concert. It’s a bit south as far as downtown is laid out, but we walked everywhere (five minutes to the river and 15 minutes to the Pearl). For only about $160 a night we had a comfortable room, secure parking (extra), beautiful patio, breakfast, excellent happy hour and a free s’mores hour. How fun is that?
Comfy room at Hotel Zags
Funky and fun art at Hotel Zags – a definite hidden gem of the Pacific Northwest
Happy Hour at Hotel Zags
S’mores Hour every night at Hotel Zags
Wander Wonder
On Saturday we decided to just wander, both on foot and in the car and here are a few hidden gems we discovered along the way;
Southeast Division street is one of Portland’s coolest neighborhoods with eclectic mix of funky, fun and food too. We were not looking for anything specific, but I had never wandered this area, so that is exactly what we did. Great coffee shops, restaurants, vintage, book store and more.
Not a hidden gem for locals, this riverside market is celebrating 50 years, and is one of the original outdoor markets. Today every town seems to have a farmers or craft market. But this one is tried and true and not to be missed when visiting Portland on a weekend.
Serving Portland since 1919, they don’t make ’em like this anymore. Selling classic western, cowboy boots, Pendleton blankets and more. It’s like stepping back in time.
Yep. I said Ghost Tour. We have done one other Ghost Tour in our travels and loved it. A Ghost Tour is much like a walking history tour, but with some terrifically tragic history and often debauchery thrown in. We booked with USA Ghost Adventures (similar tours around the country) and our Portland Ghost Tour guide Victoria Rose was spot on for the theme. Dressed the part and with a wonderful tour presentation, which she told me she had worked to develop and present over a decade. Portland has some sad events, much like most of the rough and tumble west coast cities that developed in the 1800’s. We learned about the Shanghai Tunnels, Portland’s Chinatown (once one of the largest in the country and today just a shell of itself), the tuberculosis plague, prohibition and prostitution. The tour ended at what is considered one of the city’s most haunted space – a parking lot. Here the site of a mass grave for dozens if not hundreds of the Chinook Nation. After three structures burnt to the ground on this property, no one will build there and it is a parking lot.
Learning Portland History
Old Town
I am a ghost skeptic, but I enjoyed the tour a lot, learned great history and stories and found our guide very entertaining. I highly recommend it for something educational, fun and fantastical. And if you book this tour (or maybe you want to try the Lizzie Borden tour), my readers get a 10% discount. So why not try it? Use Code FAB50S when booking at US Ghost Tours – if you dare…
Lots of tunnels run under our feet in Old Town
Victoria Rose had a fun and engaging tour
A little editing magic to this photo for a spooky effect
Fill Your Belly
Of course no matter where we are, food plays a big part in our travels. Portland is a wonderful foodie city, with something for everyone. We went in search of new-to-us places – from one of Portland’s top rated restaurants to Portland’s famous Food Truck Pods. Here is what we found;
Portland is home to 76 Food Truck “pods” as they are called here, with more than 500 food trucks/carts active. Isn’t that amazing? Though not the original city to host food trucks, Portland was one of the earliest municipalities to embrace this food culture. Today it is a integral part of this foodie town. We had never explored the “pods” located on the east side of the river, so on this trip we drove to the Hawthorne Asylum Food Pod located in Southeast Portland. We found street parking and enjoyed this colorful and busy spot, with delicious local beer too. I would go back here for sure.
As many of our readers know, we like beer. Well my husband loves beer. And Portland, like much of the Pacific Northwest, is a beer lover’s haven. Arne chose to visit Grand Fir Brewing where we enjoyed several of their beers and a really delicious lunch too. Grand Fir has a female brewmaster and owner, so I’m all over supporting women owned, local owned and Pacific Northwest businesses. Food was great too.
Born in Portland in 1999, Stumptown Coffee (Portland was once nicknamed Stumptown after they cut down all the trees) can now be found in many other cities too. But Portland loves their Stumptown, so we had to try it. We loved the funky vibe of the Stumptown location in Old Town, and it was a great place to have a cuppa, and watch Portland wake up.
One of the best meals we have had in a long time, we chose Q because it had great ratings and it was walking distance from our hotel. Service was great and they asked right up front if we had a time crunch. Since we were headed to a concert at Keller Auditorium, they assured us we would get out with plenty of time.
Warm olives and hummus
Amazing Lamb
The menu was amazing, unique and northwest. We started with warm olives and a delicious deep fried spring roll. So good. I chose the lamb, although I was waffling and almost had the catch of the day. Lamb was perfect. Arne had Osso Bucco, one of his favorites and certainly not something I make for him at home! So we were both very happy with the food, service and the ambiance. Reservations a must at this trendy Portland hot spot. Don’t miss it!
Portland’s go-to for comfort food since 1992, we had to visit for the first time, after reading the reviews. It was a Sunday and also Father’s Day so I was really glad we had made reservations. It was crowded, but the food was great and the coffee even better. I had the Northwest Salmon Hash and Eggs and Arne chose the Corned Beef Hash and Eggs. I was tempted by the Eggs Benedict, but I order that so often I thought I would be a rebel and try something new. Glad I did!
What a wonderful surprise to find Nordic Northwest, a place I had never heard of before. We went in search of Olle Bolle, the last of the Pacific Northwest Thomas Dambo trolls I wanted to see. And “ya sure ya betcha” we found him – at Nordic Northwest. What a wonderful spot for food and education and heritage of the Nordic history of the region.
Olle Bolle at Nordic Northwest
Peek a boo!
About 20 min outside of Portland, check out the Nordic Northwest calendar of events, make a reservation for good Scandinavian meal, or bring a picnic and enjoy visiting Olle Bolle. The original Scandia House on the property is open for tours a few times a year. Check the schedule to learn more.
I loved it.
My new friend Olle Bolle
Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Portland Oregon
We loved our visit to Portland and enjoyed an adventure to discover new-to-us gems. If Portland is new to you, include our recommendations here in your itinerary. If you are visiting again, you might enjoy some hidden gems, or you certainly can find your own hidden gems in this West Coast city. Thanks for reading my Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Portland Oregon post.
We were lucky to encounter the most charming little hidden gem, on Washington’s Key Peninsula. We stayed in the KPMushroom House, nestled in the woods next to Penrose Point State Park. Only 30 minutes from Gig Harbor, 45 minutes from Tacoma, an hour and 15 minutes from Seattle and 3 hours from Portland, it’s a perfect get-away any time of the year. Let me tell you about this Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – The Mushroom House Key Peninsula.
Couldn’t be cuter
What is a Mushroom House?
Not only is this magical cabin in the woods shaped like a mushroom, it is loaded with charming mushroom touches both obvious and hidden. Built by a young couple, Rod and Shannon, the project, like most, presented more challenges and a higher cost than originally expected. More than three years after breaking ground, Shannon and Rod celebrated the completion of their artistic creation – a true Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – The Mushroom House Key Peninsula.
Morning coffee under the forest canopy
Interior is a work of art
Hidden nooks and crannies around every corner
“Found” treasures like this giant bellows add so much drama and fun
Tragedy
But this fairy tale came to a stop, when Rod was killed in 2023 while flying solo in his Cessna over the Olympic Peninsula. This tragedy was, of course, devastating to Shannon and Rod’s family and friends – many who had helped bring the Mushroom House to life. Shannon was determined to keep the house in Rod’s memory, and she has worked tirelessly to create a happy ending.
Gorgeous staircase including a tree on top
Multiple well throughout outdoor spaces
Believing in Magic
If you are looking to find a little magic in the woods, The Key Peninsula Mushroom house is available to rent on Airbnb. We visited midweek in June, before the busy summer rush. And we were enchanted by so many special little touches;
Eclectic and Reclaimed
The 930 square foot house sleeps four with a main loft bedroom and a smaller Murphy Bed in the living room. The reclaimed and natural additions to the construction include beautiful wood from the property, wood and concrete countertops and cabinets, and vintage or antique items turned into useful and beautiful additions. And everywhere you look – mushrooms.
Eclectic
Reclaimed
Mushroom are everywhere
Never Never Land
If you grew up in the Pacific Northwest in the 60’s and 70’s you probably visited Never Never Land at Point Defiance in Tacoma. I definitely did. Back when kids were not stimulated all day by screens and devices, Never Never Land was a magical place for kids. I took my young children there too, in the 1990’s before it closed due to lack of interest and changing times. I have a framed postcard in my kitchen of Humpty Dumpty at Never Never Land.
Little Miss Muffet sat on her tuffet
Little Jack Horner sat in his corner
Rod, like many from Tacoma and beyond, felt nostalgia for Never Never Land, and when some of the original figures went up for auction, he purchased them. Today, as you wander the little trail near the Mushroom House, you encounter Little Miss Muffet, Little Jack Horner and Three Men in a Tub. I remember them all with a fondness that is difficult to explain if you are not from the Pacific Northwest. But The Mushroom House has brought them back to life as part of this Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – The Mushroom House Key Peninsula.
Rub a Dub Dub, Three Men in a Tub
This is my Never Never Land Postcard which hangs in my kitchen with other vintage postcards
Beneath the Twinkling Stars
Multiple outdoor spaces provide both day and evening nooks to relax and enjoy some forest bathing beneath the stars. A hot tub is available as well as two separate fire areas, one a fire pit the other a fireplace. Shannon provides fixins for s’mores too. Just behind the Mushroom House the 2 acre property opens up into a meadow, a great place to throw a Frisbee, do yoga or star gaze.
Firepit and wood is provided
Covered seating area perfect for all seasons
Hot tub too
Making s’mores after dinner
You May Never Want to Leave
The Mushroom House is within walking distance of Penrose Point State Park, a perfect place to beach comb or hike. Penrose is one of my favorite State Parks and it too is a hidden gem. It’s also a short drive to Key Center where you will find a grocery store and other services. 2 Margaritas Restaurant is only about a mile from the house. Staying longer you might consider a day in Belfair or Gig Harbor or a drive around the Hood Canal.
Awesome garden
Perfect touches on theme
The beach at Penrose Point State Park
The dock at Penrose Point State Park
Or you may want to just put your feet up, read a book, and breathe. It really is one of the most peaceful places I have ever had the pleasure of staying. A magical fairy tale that might just be the happy ending you are looking for. Book your stay here.
We spent nine days traveling in France by rail from Bordeaux to Paris on board the SNCF, the French rail service. We visited Lyon, Dijon and Luxembourg before reaching our final destination of Paris. Train travel in Europe is an excellent way to go, but be aware! We made a few mistakes and learned a few things. Here is a recap of our nine day trip – All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail.
Upper level on our first leg
Bordeaux
After four weeks living in Bordeaux we packed up and left with regrets. We truly loved our time in that wonderful city and we will definitely return. The morning we left to begin our traveling in France by rail adventure, our train departed at 6:00am…so the Uber arrived at 5:00am.
Bordeaux to Lyon Six Hours
Since we travel for extended periods we are not light packers, and this is the main drawback of traveling by rail. Several of our trains, including this first one, we were seated in the upper deck. It’s not an easy task dragging bags up the narrow stairs. Additionally the luggage racks are not big. On our first trek there were several cyclists, but no bike racks. Some trains do offer racks for bicycles. But on this first train the majority of the luggage space for our first leg was taken by bikes, leaving us with minimal options for our luggage. First lesson, when traveling in France by rail pack light.
Early morning departure
Sunrise views
We watched the sun come up and Venus rising too out the window as we headed to Tours where we would change to a different train. I immediately realized how much more you see from a train than when traveling by car. Miles and miles of gorgeous farmland and tiny villages.
Traveling in France by Rail
But before reaching Tours we encountered our first problem about traveling in France by rail. Let me explain:
We had purchased a France-only Eurail pass via the Eurail app. The pass we selected (about $200 per person) was good for four days of train travel – with the understanding that, for the high-speed trains we planned to travel on, a separate purchase of a reserved seat was required. After purchasing the reserved seats through the SNCF app, we got a ticket showing the reserved seat. The mistake was in thinking that this was our complete ticket – it’s not! It only shows that we had paid for the seat reservation – an additional step of validating the Eurail pass (via the Eurail app, NOT the SNCF app) for travel on that date and train is necessary. So when the ticket inspector approached, we showed him our seat reservation tickets, but he also wanted to see the validated Eurail pass – we had the pass but not the validation – he was not happy – in fact he was very rude. He let us go, without really explaining what we had done wrong, or if we needed to do something more. We were left confused.
Lyon
Arriving in Lyon for two nights, we made the right decision to stay at a hotel (Campanile Lyon Centre) next to the Part-Dieu train station. Lyon has two train stations (Perrache and Part Dieu) so make sure you book near the correct one. The train station is also the metro station, so we did not need to drag our bags into the old city. We love a good Metro, and Lyon’s was great.
Lyon’s Notre Dame
Beautiful
We had two days to explore Lyon, which really wasn’t enough time but we hit the ground running. The weather was excellent.
Lyon Old town
So many restaurants to chose from
We spent most of our time in Vieux Lyon (Old Town), and we used GPS My City to follow two different walking tours on our own. Over the two days we walked ALOT.
Day One
The city sits at the confluence of two rivers (the Rhone and the Saone), thus many bridges, and there is also an upper city. On day one we started with the upper city. We took the funicular (included in your Metro ticket) up to the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral with outstanding views over the city below. We wandered down through the botanical gardens and then around to the Theatre Gallo Romaine. The Ancient Theatre of Fourvière is a Roman theatre in Lyon. It was built on the hill of Fourvière, which is located in the center of the Roman city. The theatre is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site protecting the historic center of Lyon.
Beautiful Lyon
We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring shops and food in the old town. We tasted the famous Lyon bright red pralines and dipped into one of the famous chocolate shops and enjoyed delicious treats.
Mid-day Pastry Break
Day Two
We love using GPS My City and we combined several options to spend the entire day exploring Lyon. We started with one of the most beautiful food markets I have ever seen, Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. You could spend the entire day here.
Les Halles de Lyon
Lyon is famous for this red prallines
Moving on to Place Bellacour, visiting the Little Prince statue and then Place de Cistines, Lyon’s stunning 200 year old theatre.
Place Bellacour is Europes largest public square
Little Prince statue
So Much to See
We did a lot of climbing on this day visiting Lyon Cathedral, Place de Jacobins, Place de Terreaux. La Tour Rose and the Montee des Chazeaux steps. Eventually we crossed the river on the beautiful Passarelle Saint-Vincent pedestrian bridge and using GPS My City we found the Fresque de Lyonaise, a mural depicting historic figures of Lyon. We enjoyed a lovely stroll along the river on a beautiful day.
Beautiful views along the river
It’s a scavenger hunt to find La Tour Rose, but worth it.
Montee des Chazeaux steps
Fresque de Lyonnaise
There is much more to Lyon, and we will need to return for another visit. After a quick refresh at the hotel, we headed back to Rue Saint-Jean, the main old town shopping street for dinner at the famous Chez Grand-Mere. An underground restaurant where I enjoyed a Lyonnaise dish called quennelles. It was delicious.
Chez Grand-Mere
Fish Quennelles. So good.
The city has many gathering places of beauty and heritage
Dijon
Next morning we had an easier departure time of 11:00am. We said our farewells to Lyon and boarded our next train.
Lyon to Dijon Four Hours
Alas we encountered another problem when the ticket steward came along. This time we had a woman who was sympathetic to us being novices, and she took a great deal of time to explain to us in detail what we had done wrong…something the first rude guy did not do. She was very helpful even though we had to pay 50 Euro due to our mistake….not having completed adding the specific date and train to our Eurail pass via the Eurail app. But we felt confident we finally had it right. She told us this is a common mistake…and the added costs can be much more than she charged us. So be aware!
Beautiful Dijon
Bonjour Dijon
Arriving in Dijon we were met by our American friends who live half time in Dijon, and the other half in the USA. It was a great treat to have them as our escort on our first day. It was about a 15 minute easy walk from the train station to old town. After checking in to the hotel (B&B Hotel Dijon Centre) located in a great location of the old town, we headed out to explore.
Our personal guides!
With only two days in this great city, it was nice to have “locals” to give us the scoop on the best things to see and do. We walked throughout the old town, as they shared with us their favorites and suggested things for us to do on our own on day two. We ended our day with our friends at a little hole-in-the-wall place they love called La Cave Se Rebiffe. Essentially a wine bar with a huge wine menu and a tiny food menu. We ate charcuterie, terrine, pasta and blood sausage with lots of great local wine from the Burgundy region.
La Cave Se Rebiffe Chacuterie
Learning about Burgundy region wines
Day Two
Day two we hit the ground running on our own. We headed first to Liberation Square for photos of the famous Ducal Palace. The Palace of the Dukes and Estates of Burgundy or Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne is a remarkably well-preserved architectural assemblage built in the 15th century. Today it houses the City Hall and the Beaux Arts Museum. We headed to the tourist office to obtain a 12 euro ticket to climb the Phillip the Good Tower later in the afternoon with a guide. That tower climb really was one of my favorite things in the city.
Lyon’s lucky owl
Musee de Beaux Arts
Climbing Phillip the Good Tower
What a view!
History, Food, Wine, Oh My
Next we went cathedral hopping – Dijon is a small village with an astonishing number of cathedrals. The Notre Dame Cathedral and its famous (somewhat hidden) owl sculpture, has become a symbol of this city.
We loved the Rue des Forges and the beautiful half timbered houses, many currently being lovingly restored and preserved. We made our way to the world famous Edmond Fallot Mustard shop. Fallot is the only remaining family-owned and -operated mustard factory in the Dijon region. I have been buying this brand of mustard every time I’m in France for the past twenty years. So delicious. I stocked up for gifts and for myself.
Half Timbered Houses
Dijon is a village of cathedrals
Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne
Since many businesses and restaurants are closed on Monday in France, we asked our local friends for a dinner suggestion. They said Parapluie (translation: umbrella). We made a reservation not knowing anything about this restaurant, and ended up being absolutely charmed by the chef’s choice menu, incredible wine selection, outstanding service and the unexpectedly reasonable price. I highly recommend.
Parapluie
Parapluie
We woke up early on our departure day and walked over the the Halles de Dijon. It had been closed on Monday so we wanted to see it briefly Tuesday morning before we left. One of the best food halles in France. Such a variety of local delicacies for sale. Next time I will spend an entire day there.
Les Halles de Dijon
The freshest
I could easily have spent another three or four days in this lovely, walkable, delicious medieval city. I hope to be back.
Luxembourg
Traveling in France by Rail
Our train to Luxembourg left about a half an hour late, which apparently is unusual when traveling in France by rail. But we eventually got on our way and luckily this time, no issues with our ticket! However, please note if you are traveling on the France-only Eurail pass, you need a separate ticket for the last leg from the final stop in France into Luxembourg. We did not change trains, but we did need two separate tickets (nobody checked, but we did not want to risk it!).
Hubs is tired of dragging the bags…
Dijon to Luxembourg 3 hours
The tiny country of Luxembourg gave us our 148th country, and what a lovely place it was. The only constitutional duchy in the world, it is often referred to as the Grand Duchy. A constitutional duchy is a territory ruled by a duke or duchess, but where the ruler’s powers are limited by a constitution. The duchy itself is the territory or domain, while the ruler’s title is the dukedom.
Palace of the Duchy
Luxembourg City is much larger than Dijon and we took a cab from the train station to our hotel (Hotel Vauban). I loved the location of our hotel right on Place Guillaume II, and perfectly situated in the old center. We were happy to be here for two nights.
Luxembourg City
Get Your Walking Shoes
Luxembourg City and the lower village of Gund are all quite walkable. But if you don’t want to go up and down the hills, take advantage of the FREE public transportation (tram and bus). We however enjoyed walking everywhere as we usually do.
Inside the Bock Casemates
That is one deep well
There is a lot to enjoy in Luxembourg so we dropped our bags at the hotel and headed out to explore. We took our time leisurely walking through the beautiful medieval old town, before arriving at the Bock Casemates – a must-see when in Luxembourg. The Bock Casemates, a subterranean defense system made up of kilometers of tunnels, is today one of the most important visitor sites in Luxembourg. These underground galleries were initially carved in the 17th century, under Spanish rule, and subsequently twice extended.
Like a Fairy Tale
Next we did a lovely walk down in the lower village known as Gund, stopping for a cold drink at the Good Weather Bar, only open in good weather! From the outdoor bar and on our walk we enjoyed picturesque views along the Alzette River. It truly looks like something out of a fairy tale. We made our way to the city’s oldest brewery, now a restaurant, called Big Beer and had a giant and delicious early dinner. Luxembourg has it’s own cuisine that leans a bit more German than French but also all it’s own. The pork knuckle was as big as my head. We continued our Gund walk to the Panoramic Elevator of the Pfaffenthal. A free elevator that takes people back up to the upper city with great views too.
Good Weather Bar
Panoramic Elevator of the Pfaffenthal
We were lucky with such great weather
Giant Pork Knuckle at Big Beer
Day Two
We woke up and looked out the window of our room to find a weekly market set up on the square in front of the hotel. So we started our day walking through and admiring all the fresh items for sale. Next we walked over the Pont Adolphe bridge and back over the La Passerelle bridge, in an effort see all angles of the beautiful city, before meeting our free walking tour.
A variety of old and modern bridges keep Luxembourg moving
Free Walkingt Tour
We do free (tip based) walking tours in many cities, and this two-plus hour tour was really exceptional. We visited the palace, the old fish market, Saint Michael’s Cathedral, Notre Dame Cathedral, the Monument of Remembrance and walked along the stunning ancient Chemin de la Corniche. You could easily visit all these on your own, but having a local guide to explain the history, give restaurant tips and insider information is always worth it.
Notre Dame Luxembourg
The Monument of Remembrance
After the tour we were starving so we headed to one of the city’s best restaurants for local cuisine, Brasserie du Cercle. I wanted to try the local dumpling dish called Kniddelen and Arne had a potato pancake with pork called Gromperekichelcher. Both were great. It was a hot day and the local Luxembourg beer was a perfect match.
Kniddelen
Gromperekichelcher.
After an afternoon of shopping for gifts and treats we had a rest at the hotel before dinner at Um Dierfgen. We were still full from lunch but we enjoyed a light dinner including the local seasonal specialty of white asparagus.
Luxembourg’s famous Chocolate House Nathanal Bonn
White Asparagus in season
It was a whirlwind tour of this beautiful place and I am so glad we made the time to visit Luxembourg City. But now it’s time to head to Paris.
Charming Luxembourg City
Paris
Of course we have visited Paris before (a few times) but we always look forward to seeing this beautiful city of lights. So back on board we go!
Bonjour Paris! Ravi de vous voir!
Luxembourg City to Paris Three Hours
Arriving in Paris at Gare de Est we decided to take an Uber rather than wrangle our bags on the Metro. But we used the Paris Metro the rest of our time and it is such a great metro system.
Since we have been to Paris many times, we decided to not do all the major attractions, except we really wanted to see the newly reopened Notre Dame.
The beautiful Marais neighborhood
Parisians enjoying a sunny May Day bank holiday
Our hotel, (the Hotel Le Compostelle), was in the Marais neighborhood, and we spent our first afternoon wandering and enjoying the sites and sounds and smells of the Marais. We were there on a holiday (May Day) and all the Parisians were out enjoying the fine spring weather. We then met our good friends who live in Paris at a restaurant called Acme and it was incredible! One of the best meals we have ever had in Paris. Multi course, chef’s choice dinner with an amazing wine pairing. We ate, sipped and talked well into the night, sitting outside on a warm night. Parfaite!
Innovative haute cuisine at Acme
Good food and friends
Day Two
Next morning we were up early (thank you coffee) because we had a reserved time to enter Notre Dame. I highly recommend getting a reserved time if you will be in Paris during the busy season. You can go on the Notre Dame website at 12:01 am two days before you want to visit and reserve a time. You can also wait in line, but the line can sometimes be hours long, so we recommend reserving a time. I loved seeing the new Notre Dame, it has been so lovingly restored and it is stunning. Don’t miss it.
French Coffee. Nothing better.
Notre Dame
Newly restored and beautiful Notre Dame
We spent the rest of this day wandering and enjoying our favorite sites including Jardin de Luxembourg, and views of Tour Eiffel. I wanted to visit two iconic Paris shops for souvenirs – Marin Montagut and La Grand Epicerie de Paris. We also visited Rue Montorgueil, a new-to-us area of Paris with so many restaurants. Here we had a perfect Nicoise Salad and wine for lunch at Les Artizans. Back to the hotel for a rest and then out to an amazing dinner at Grand Coeur. Wow the beef tenderloin for two was incredible. Highly recommend.
Jardin de Luxembourg
La Grand Epicerie de Paris
Rue Montorgueil,
Lunch at Les Artizans
Grand Coeur Beef Tenderloin. Wow.
Day Three
The forecast said possible late afternoon thunderstorms but the day dawned bright and blue. We took the train outside of the city to the stunning and new-to-us Parc de Sceaux – a hidden gem just outside of Paris. Here we met a group of women from a Facebook walking group I am in, and spent the next two hours talking to them (most expats from United Kingdom) and exploring this stunning park. Such a joy.
Parc de Sceaux.
Parc de Sceaux.
Back into the city to meet our friend again to explore the Carnavalet Museum, one Paris museum we had never visited. I heard great things about this museum, and we only had two hours which was not enough. We really enjoyed the historic presentation and will check it out again on our next visit.
Carnavalet Museum
Carnavalet Museum
Expect the Unexpected
Just as we were getting ready to leave the museum, we witnessed one of the most astonishing weather events of my life. In a matter of minutes the weather changed from blue sky and sun to black clouds, fierce wind and golf ball size hail. It hailed so hard and so much the hail piled up on the street like snow. Luckily we were not caught outside because people were injured and many cars and outdoor venues were damaged. Trees were down. It was wild and crazy.
Hail as big as golf balls. OMG.
Not only was it our final night in Paris, but it was our final night of this four month, seven country journey. We were tired and ready to head home. But we enjoyed one last Paris meal at Au Bourguignon du Marais This famous restaurant is a bit touristy, but it was close to our hotel and we had a good meal and also enjoyed visiting the two oldest houses in Paris just down the street. The medieval half timbered houses on the Rue Francois Miron are the only ones remaining in Paris, built in the 15th century.
Au Bourguignon du Marais
Rue Francois Miron timbered houses still in use
Traveling in France by Rail
Five cities in nine days using the France Rail SNCF… was a fun experience. Easy and efficient the train also provides a relaxing trip, with WIFi and the most amazing views. I would definitely do it again, but with smaller suitcases. You should consider traveling in France by Rail.
Traveling in France by Rail
We had a very early Uber ride to Charles de Gaulle for our flight back to the USA and our summer home in Washington State. Merci France. We loved our five plus weeks enjoying your culture, food, wine and history. Au Revoir. Abientot!
Parc de Sceaux.
Thank you for reading my post All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail. Be sure to see our post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux and last week’s post What’s Next for My Fab Fifites Life. Over the next few weeks I will continue to have Wednesday book reviews, but will take a wee break from writing travel content. I promise to return soon.
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