It’s our second visit to the remarkable country of Egypt. We came this time specifically to see the brand new (20 years in the making) Grand Egyptian Museum. But we discovered much more…incredible deserts, fabulous food and amazing hospitality. Welcome back to ancient Egypt – Old, New and Unexpected Too.
Our First Trip 2018
It’s been 8 years since our first trip to Egypt. At that time we came without many expectations, and left with our heart and minds full. On that trip we spent time in the city of Cairo and of course did the Pyramids. But we also flew to Aswan, did a Nile River Cruise and saw Luxor and so many other sites. We ended this trip with a visit to the highlights of Jordan. All of this was planned for us by Memphis Tours.
Return to Egypt 2026
When the long awaited Grand Egyptian Museum opened in 2025, we knew it was time to visit Egypt again. And so once again we reached out to Memphis Tours. Our goal was to have two half-days in what we knew would be a remarkable museum, and to see what else Memphis Tours might suggest for us. And we were not disappointed. And so begins Egypt – Old, New and Unexpected Too.
Six Days in Egypt
Starting our visit in Cairo we were met at the airport by Ahmed, a wonderful representative of Memphis Tours. Although Ahmed was not our guide throughout our visit, he did check in with me every day to make sure we were doing well. One of the perks of Memphis Tours.
On arrival we immediately noticed changes in Cairo. Construction going on everywhere on roads, buildings and brand new suburbs including Cairo West where we stayed in the Hyatt Centric. There is also a newly opened airport The Sphinx and a new elevated train system being built. One thing we noticed had not changed, Egypt still has the nicest people in the world, and the craziest drivers and traffic.
Day One
The Grand Egyptian Museum
After a good night’s sleep we were picked up by our guide Emad who would be with us through the week. We began at the Grand Egyptian Museum. Twenty years in the making, both the architecture and the exhibits are some of the most stunning I have ever witnessed. The giant (about 500,000 square meters roughly 5.4 million square feet) building is home to more than 100,000 artifacts, most of which have never been on display before. Emad is an incredible historian and Egyptologist and listening to him both at the museum and through the week was inspiring.
I think this YouTube video from the Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) is worth a couple of minutes to really understand the magnitude of this remarkable place. I am so grateful to have seen it. Click on Watch Video on YouTube to view.
Pyramids and Sphinx
Even though we had visited the Pyramids before, you can’t come to Cairo/Giza without going again. Something very noticeable has changed in 8 years around this UNESCO site. A new ticket area, entrance and parking as well as a bus system for all guests. Everyone must use this bus system and new entrance. It has really eliminated long queues at the entrance and too many vehicles.
Emad shared more great info that helped us see the pyramids in a new light. As we walked around and saw so many large groups following a guide holding an umbrella I once again was so thankful to have our own private guide. It’s absolutely worth it particularly in a place with such deep and astonishing history. With a one-on-one guide you can ask so many questions and pick and choose what is important to see. AND for once we had someone to take photos of the two of us together!
It was late in the afternoon and we went for a lovely Egyptian lunch with a view of the pyramids before heading back to our hotel for a relaxing evening.
Day Two
Into the Desert
Emad and a driver picked us up at 7am for the more than four hour drive out to the desert. We changed drivers after four hours when we met Muhammad and his 4W Drive. This would be our vehicle in the desert. Muhammad also hosted us for an incredible lunch in his home before we set off again.
Our afternoon included a stop at the Black Desert, home to extinct volcanoes and a terrain littered with black basalt from more than 180 million years ago. As beautiful as this was, I had no idea the treasures that awaited us ahead.
Our next stop was Bahariya Oasis, a depression and a naturally rich oasis in the Western Desert of Egypt. Here water funnels by the thousands of gallons to farms throughout the lowlands. We sat with our feet in the pool with many other visitors (including one lovely man from Hanoi that wanted to have his photo with us) and sipped tea and relaxed.
Back in the 4WD to Crystal Mountain, a glittering natural ridge composed of limestone, calcite, and barite crystals located in Egypt’s Western Desert between the Bahariya Oasis and the Farafra Oasis. This is another protected area of Egypt so no mining or crystal collecting here.
Next we were off to The Valley of Agabat (also spelled Wadi Agabat) a remote, surreal desert basin located in the White Desert National Park in Egypt’s Western Desert, between the Bahariya and Farafra oases. As we came around the corner, driving through the sandy soil, Muhammad said to close our eyes as he counted to ten then said OPEN. Indeed it was a remarkable sight to behold. There were many other 4WD vehicles here and a lot of people too, but not so many that it took away from the views or the wonder of this work of Mother Nature.
These formations are relatively new – The chalk and limestone formations in the Valley of Agabat are primarily Late Cretaceous in age, specifically dating back to the Maastrichtian stage roughly 66 to 72 million years ago. Shortly we would be seeing even older desert floor and remarkable formations.
Muhammad wanted to show off in his new 4WD so next we went speeding through the dunes and desert while I white – knuckled it in the back seat giving Arne the saucer eye. It was fun…even though I am much more of a chicken than I used to be.
Our final stop of the day was at a small natural spring flowing out of the sand, where we sat on a bench drinking delicious cantaloupe juice and eating freshly picked dates and freshly roasted peanuts served to us by Emad and Muhammad. A nice peaceful moment of Egypt Old, New and Unexpected Too.
Camp Shahrazad
We arrived at our beautiful White Desert accommodations for the night Camp Shahrazad just before sunset. Our room was lovely, comfortable and private. Sunset was also lovely, but it was the way the sun came up in the morning that I liked…slowly turning the entire desert a glowing pink carpet of sand. After dinner of traditional Egyptian foods we slept like a rock.
Day Three
We will return to Cairo on this day, but before that we still have a special thing to see. After a simple breakfast we were back in the 4WD. Our next stop was the famous white rock formations of the White Desert National Park.
The rock material in Egypt’s White Desert is 70 to 80 million years old, while the distinct sculpted shapes are much younger. Emad gave us such great information about the geology and nature of this beautiful place.
The White Desert lies within the Farafra Depression, the second-largest depression in Egypt, spanning approximately 380 square miles (980 sq km). Its formation resulted from complex tectonic processes that occurred over millions of years. As the ancient seas retreated, the exposed seabed underwent significant geological changes. The plateau subsequently collapsed, revealing layers of sedimentary rock that had accumulated over eons. This tectonic activity, coupled with the recession of water, created the depression that now houses the White Desert National Park. Throughout this period, the region experienced multiple phases of uplift, further shaping its distinctive topography.
Over many millions of years, powerful winds carrying abrasive sand particles have acted as natural sandblasting agents through a process known as ventifacting. These persistent forces gradually sculpted the soft chalk formations into the mesmerizing shapes visible today. (Credit Memphis Tours)
We walked and took hundred of photos knowing how lucky we are to be able to experience the wonders of this planet and it’s remarkable hidden treasures.
Next we made the long drive back to Muhammad’s home, where we once again enjoyed lunch and said goodbye to him and his 4WD. Back into the car for the four plus hour drive back to Cairo with Emad. We were tired but happy and ordered room service for dinner that night and it was first rate.
Day Four
Today our itinerary gave us a free day. We considered doing a few different things, but instead decided we needed to relax and so we did sitting at the beautiful pool. Just what we needed. In the evening we were picked up to do a Nile River Dinner Cruise. Because of traffic it took about 45 minutes to get to the river and our ship.
This was definitely the most “touristy” thing we did during our time in Egypt, and also our least favorite. There was good food and a variety of dancers and musicians. But the best part about the evening was seeing the city from the water all lit up. Although a bit rough around the edges, Cairo is such a beautiful ancient place.
Day Five
After breakfast at the hotel (which by the way was exceptional every day) Emad picked us up at 9am to return to the Grand Egyptian Museum. On our first visit he had guided us through the three main highlights included the Grand Staircase, the Tutankhamen Exhibit and the Khufu Ship. Today we took us on a chronological history of Egypt all the way back 700,000 years and up through the Roman era. I learned so much and actually retained so much. It was so good not to try to see it all in just one day. If I ever come back, I think I would visit the GEM again and just wander through on my own, focusing on anything that catches my attention and enjoying it retrospectively. This museum is worth making a trip to Cairo for. But as long as you are here…see more. Because there is so much – Egypt Old New and Unexpected Too.
In the afternoon we said goodbye to our friend Emad and spent some time packing for our flight. We went out for a final special night dinner at a restaurant near our hotel called The Smokery where we enjoyed the food, the service and the view.
Things to Know
You could visit this place without a guide but I would not recommend it. Having a driver makes all the difference. Having a knowledgeable guide will make your experience richer and memorable. Memphis Tours provided assistance from the time we stepped off the plane to the time we went into the security line on departure. Very helpful particularly because men and women have separate lines for security and that is something I wasn’t expecting.
We flew Egypt Air from Amsterdam and returned via Egypt Air to Zurich. It’s a great airline with a very generous luggage allowance and full meals (nearly unheard of anymore in economy).
You cannot and should not drink the water in Egypt. Unfortunately as far as we could learn there is little or no effort being made to change this issue, and therefore millions and millions of plastic bottles are used. For many years I have advocated for places with poor drinking water to at least provide filtered water kiosks in hotels, museums, stores, restaurants…even on street corners. That way water bottles (like the ones we carry around the world) could be refilled without using plastics. Egypt is not there yet.
Despite new roads and construction projects, the traffic particularly in Cairo is crazy. Zero stop lights. Weird, and for a Westerner a bit frightening driving habits where lanes are ignored and merging is a free for all. Take a deep breath and enjoy this cultural way of life. On our first day we had a malfunctioning seatbelt, we explained to Emad about the car accident we had in Armenia and that we would not be driving anywhere without seatbelts. The belt was fixed quickly and respectfully and off we went.
We felt safe every day and everywhere we went. The Egyptian people are so very kind, considerate and welcoming. Just amazing. The people alone are a reason to visit. Will we be back? It’s hard to say, but it might happen. There are still wonders of the world that this country possesses and as you know, I am intrigued to see as much as I can.
Egypt – Old, New and Unexpected Too
Thank you for reading my post Egypt – Old, New and Unexpected Too. We appreciate your continued support of our work, your pins, shares, comments and any time on our site. See our recent post Amazing Amsterdam here. Lots more travel content coming soon. Stay tuned!
