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Becoming a Traveler

Full Time, Nomad, Solo or Just an Adventure

December 30, 2022

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I get asked a lot of questions regarding our travel life. The most often question is what is our favorite country? Answer – I don’t have a fav…but I do have a top ten (Bulgaria, New Zealand, Myanmar, Guatemala, Vietnam, Namibia, French Polynesia, Cyprus, Malta, France). The second most often asked question is about getting started. Many people just can’t figure out the steps needed and need a little nudge to help. People we meet often show interest, surprise, envy, jealousy, horror and confusion over our long term travel life. But most of all they are curious. And the curiosity is about becoming a traveler. How to make the leap?

Getting Started In Travel

There are as many kinds of travel as there are travelers. Our long term travel (longest 18 months, shortest two months) fits our comfort level, tolerance and budget. But it’s not for everyone. Other people are more suited to solo travel, short-term travel, organized tour travel, female group travel, or niche travel such as yoga or bird-watching or food travel.

So before I can help you in getting started in travel, you need to do some personal soul searching to narrow down what kind of traveler you think you are. What is your tolerance level? Consider everything from beds to cultural customs when considering your personal tolerance for traveling outside of the United States. Do you have phobias? Afraid of bugs? Snakes? Rodents or people not like you? Are you afraid of cultures where everyone isn’t white? Are you willing to eat new foods, communicate in languages other than English and squat to go to the bathroom? Give it a think because, even if you aren’t traveling full-time, you still gotta be open, willing and fairly fearless while being smart, observant and adventurous.

Hard to answer questions to a travel nomad — We spent a lot of time in Spain

What Kind of Traveler are You?

When the idea first sprouted to become full-time travelers, I knew immediately we would do it. Without a question I knew it was right for us. All while knowing it isn’t right for everyone. That’s why you need to find your comfort zone. Only you can do that. And realize you may start out as one kind of traveler and morph into another as you broaden your horizons. That’s a good thing.

Before we embarked on the first phase of the Grand Adventure in 2016 we spent several years preparing. We had to sell our house, get organized, and figure out what we wanted out of this new lifestyle. It took some soul searching, and frankly it continues to evolve each and every year. But in the beginning our choices had a lot to do with budget.

Budget

Once you know your tolerance level and have some idea of your comfort zone, that in turn will help you determine your budget. If you are only willing to stay in upscale American style hotels, then your budget will need to look very different from ours. To sustain our travels we travel very frugally. We don’t need fancy hotels with room service. But if you do, put it in your budget.

Who Do You Want to Be?

Our travels have us staying in primarily Airbnb’s that average about $70. And honestly if you are only willing to stay in American brand hotels with 700 thread count sheets and someone to cater to your every whim – well, you should just stay in the USA. Because you will miss the most rewarding part of international travel – getting out of your comfort zone and expanding your world view. However, if USA travel is your desire…go for it. There is a lot to see in the United States. One good way to do that is to become an RV Traveler. So before we tackle budget let’s talk about some of the different kinds of travelers;

500 days of summer — Astonishing and unexpected Namibia

Retired Traveler

Like myself and my husband, many retired folks go all in on travel…either long term or short. If you are new to travel and retired you might consider starting out with a group tour or a cruise to “get your feet wet” before launching out more broadly. My friend Linda and her husband are retired travelers from Canada and I recommend Linda’s blog and social sites to learn how they make it work. Follow Linda and reach out to her at Retired and Traveling.

Solo Female Traveler

As a blogger I have had the opportunity to become friends with other bloggers and there are many solo female travelers out there. As a solo female it can feel a bit daunting to get started, feel safe and not get lonely. I recommend getting to know my friend Sue. Sue has a wonderful backstory as to how she became a solo female traveler when she lost her husband. I recommend for anyone considering adventure travel, solo or not, to engage with Sue on her website and socials. Learn more at Sue Where Why What.

Lightweight Travels

Packing for travel is one of the questions I get so often! It can seem overwhelming trying to figure out what to pack for either short term or extended travel. So meet my friend Katherine. She is a Kiwi (New Zealand) solo traveling light and she blogs about it and has a book coming out next month called Dare to Travel Solo! Learn how she pulls it together here at The 5kilo Traveller

Full Time Traveler

Full time travel is not everyone’s goal, however once you get comfortable with travel you might find the concept appealing. Becoming a nomad, especially in this day and age where you can work remotely from nearly anywhere, a life of full-time travel is more accessible than ever. My friend Heather left the corporate world to become a full-time traveler and she never looked back. In addition to her blog and socials, she now teaches others how to make it work as a full time traveler. She has a very active Facebook Group called Full Time Travelers and Nomads and a Ted Talk. Find out more about Heather at Heather Begins

Australia is a great place to begin your travel life

How to Budget.

We have a daily budget of $220 all-inclusive for two people (transportation, lodging, food, entertainment and misc). At first glance that might seem like a lot, but flights alone over the years have averaged $40 per day (amortized). This budget is enough for most places (Asia, Africa, Latin America) and not enough for a few places (parts of Europe and the USA), but we are frugal and hope it all evens out. To stay on budget we plan ahead, look for discounts and deals, fly in economy and often don’t rent a car. We cook most meals, eating out about once a week. And the remarkable thing is, we live significantly less expensively while traveling than we did in the USA before we embarked on this new life.

Now in year seven of our Grand Adventure (despite putting everything on hold for an entire year during Covid) we have learned a lot about how to long-term travel efficiently. Some of this knowledge can be applied to any kind of travel, not just long-term. So listed below are some “details” on getting started in travel. Most of these things we have had to learn on our own – so if this list can alleviate any work for someone else considering traveling abroad full-time or traveling solo or just taking a trip then our work here is done.

Flights can be expensive, we always shop around

Purge

PURGE – we started our purge process more than two years before we put our house on the market, as we let go of nearly every bit of fluff we owned, including house, cars, boats, trailer, furniture and more. We put our remaining possessions in a 10×12 storage unit for three years. After three years we purchased a small condo to have a place to come home to in the summer. That was a blessing when Covid hit. When we leave our condo we sometimes have a house sitter but not always. We forward our mail to our son.

All the Documents

DOCUMENTS – we updated our passports even though they were not expired, so we would not have any issues with needing to do that from abroad. We also updated our Washington State Drivers License. We carry a copy of our marriage certificate with us but not our birth certificates because the passport is sufficient. We research every possible country we think we might visit to learn the entry/visa requirements. We carry copies of our passport, extra passport photos because some countries require obtaining a visa on entry with photo. We also carry International Drivers License, even though we have NEVER been asked for one. We sign up with the US State Department Smart Travel Program and list every country we plan to be in and when.

Create a Spreadsheet

SPREADSHEET – we created a spread sheet (using Google Sheets), which is evolving constantly and we can access via Google Drive, to track all of our travel including air and ground transportation and lodging. This spreadsheet includes notes regarding entry rules for countries. It’s also a fun tool for tracking so many things from miles traveled to beds slept in. The data we have is incredible after six and half years.

Google Drive Photo Storage — Tracking expenses and other data is part of our travel life

What About the Mail?

MAIL – we have worked really hard to NOT have any paper mail and do 95% of everything online. But we forward to our son’s house in case mail does show up.

Thank Goodness for Technology

TECHNOLOGY – we have new smart phones, an iPad, a Kindle and a light weight Mac Book Air For our smartphones (we each have an iPhone) we buy a sim card in each country for one of our phones to enable the phone to have a local phone number and data. We then also use our iPhones with wifi for things like blogging, Facebook and Instagram. We keep our Verizon number active so when we return to the USA that number still belongs to us. I definitely recommend getting a SIM card in each country and not paying the daily international fee your provider will offer you. SIM is simple and inexpensive.

We also have our Bose noise-canceling headphones and our Bose SoundLink Mini speaker that measures about 6 in x 3 in. We carry this with us and it allows us to listen to music using Spotify and listen to Audible or other books.

Photo Library — Technology makes this kind of life so much easier

APPS – We have a few travel apps we like especially Airbnb, Expedia, Booking and Google Maps. We also use Google Translate which is really cool. We use WhatsApp, an app that allows you to make overseas calls via the internet, this is primarily the way we communicate with our kids. To call our parents, who aren’t on WiFi, we use an app called TextNow which allows free phone calls from anywhere to the USA. We also use Kindle, Yelp, Uber, Get Your Guide, Viator and Trip Advisor. We do our banking online with an app and our taxes online. We use a weather app, a plant identifier app called PictureThis and a bird watching app called Merlin. I follow news on the NPR app and the BBC app.

CORDS AND CHARGERS – I honestly don’t understand why there isn’t a universal cord for all electronics, but alas wishful thinking. So we have organized and sorted all our cords, charges and adapters to travel along. We research ahead to make sure we know what adapters we need in each country. We have a really cool little case that keeps all of our electronics organized and in one place. I usually carry some packing tape, post it notes and paper clips in there too.

Money Money Money

CREDIT CARDS AND CASH – don’t you hate it when your credit card company announces suddenly that you are being mailed a new credit card because your card has been compromised? Well that would really screw us up if that happens. So we have FOUR credit cards. One is our primary and three are backups. Three cards have no foreign transaction fees (which is a killer). We also have multiple ATM cards. All credit and debit cards are chipped. VERY IMPORTANT is that we do not carry all these cards together in one place. That way, if our wallet or purse is lost or stolen, we will have back up cards available in a different location. For most credit credit companies it is no longer necessary to let them know when you are traveling abroad. But check with yours to be sure. We carry several hundred US dollar in cash for emergencies. We never “exchange” US Dollars for local money. Instead to keep from paying the exchange rate fee we take money from a local ATM when we arrive at the airport.

Money and Credit Cards need to be taken seriously

Staying Healthy

PRESCRIPTIONS – I take two prescriptions regularly. It’s been a challenge to get enough of my meds stocked up. My insurance company will allow, with a special doctor’s note, two 90 day vacation overrides. Check with your insurance company to see what their policy is. We carry a first aid kit and a few Covid tests.

DOCTORS – each time we return to the USA we have had a ton of appointments; family physician for full physicals, new prescriptions and precautionary antibiotics; eye doctor for new contacts and glasses; dermatologist for annual check up; dentist for cleaning and some work; gynecologist for check up; and annual mammogram. We have our Covid shot and boosters and we keep track of all our other vaccinations and update as needed.

Taking care of you is an important part of travel

STAYING FIT – we eat very healthy everywhere we go. We used to drink a lot more alcohol than we do now…I only have a drink about once a week. In nearly every country we create a running route, do yoga everyday and hike once a week. And we walk and walk and walk.

A Little Pampering

GIRL STUFF – I get a haircut about every three months, and have my nails done about every two months. In between I take care of my nails myself. Depending on the country, I sometimes allow myself a massage or facial. In many countries these things are incredibly inexpensive and very nice. I do not carry a hair dryer but I do carry my skin care products and a very small amount of makeup which I hardly ever use. Because many countries have a lot of minerals in the water that is very hard on hair, I bring really good hair care products from the USA. I have a flat jewelry case with a few earrings and a couple of necklaces.

Let’s Go!

DECIDING WHERE TO GO – After six years of long-term travel we feel much more comfortable with our movement around the planet. It feels natural. We usually agree on where we want to go and make our decisions based on budget, weather, safety and interest. We love to go to new places, but have a few favorites we return to. We take turns planning the itinerary, often taking a country each. We have been to 123 countries so far! By the way I use a little app called BEEN to keep track of all the countries we have been to.

PACKING – this topic is one most people ask about, and indeed one of the hardest. We will continue to use two large REI rolling bags. Arne will continue to use his backpack as a carry on. I have a small roller bag carry on and a large bag that slides under the seat. And packing cubes have changed my life. Organized and categorized, I love using packing cubes. All that said, I still habitually over pack. But I am better than I used to be and have created a travel wardrobe that works for me. Once you are on the road for awhile you will get a feel for what you actually need and what you can do without.

AND OTHER USEFUL STUFF – We carry a Scrabble game and I carry my fold up hiking poles. We have a hammock that folds up very small. We have a collapsible hot pot for heating water and I love it! We carry some refreeze ice packs, a tiny fold-up cooler, a fold up beach bag and a fold up yoga mat. I carry a few spices and olive oil, some can koozies and reusable water bottles. I also pack flat laundry sheets (such a great invention) a cord and a few clothes pins. My husband has an all-purpose utility knife. Freezer bags and packing cubes – both so useful.

Happily married 40 years and loving our travel life

Getting Started in Travel

So there you have it. The details. This is what we have learned when getting started in travel. Start slow or take a leap of faith….but get out there. Alone or with friends or make new friends on a tour…getting started in travel just takes a little faith. Take a few trips, get a feel for it, and then your confidence will soar! Ask me questions! I want to help.

There is plenty of information out there to help in getting started in travel! Fabulous!

Check out a few of my other blog posts about travel life; Making Sense of it All, The Surprising Things You Learn From Full-Time Travel, Our Favorite Destinations No One Goes To and Travel Wardrobe for Multiple Climates

See last Friday’s post Maui Best Restaurants 2022 here. Also see our special Thursday Travel Tips post from yesterday Top Twenty Blogs of 2022.

We have lots of great things in store for the coming year! Be sure not to miss a thing by signing up to receive our blog posts in your email inbox. Sign up here.

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Bhutan Bucket List, The Land of the Thunder Dragon

Bucketlist and Worth the Wait

April 4, 2025

Laureen

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bucket list noun : a list of things that one has not done before but wants to do before dying

I have been thinking about Bhutan for so long…honestly didn’t know if it would ever happen. It’s remote, expensive, and definitely under the radar for most travelers. But for us, it ticked a lot of boxes we look for in a destination. So we made it happen – Bhutan Bucket List, The Land of the Thunder Dragon.

The Thunder Dragon

In this Buddhist country overflowing with symbolism, myths, and beliefs, Bhutan is known as Druk Yul or the “Land of Dragon”. The name comes from the violent thunderstorms that sweep down from the Himalayan Mountains.

More than 85% of the Bhutanese people practice the Buddhism, in the only Buddhist democratic constitutional monarchy in the world. The people are strong in their faith, their love of their King and country, and their love of their unique and beautiful cultural traditions.

Why Bhutan?

Fifteen years ago I saw a photograph of Bhutan’s iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery. It blew my mind. I vowed to see it one day. This was before we set out on our retirement travel adventures. Back when we had no idea this travel obsession would become a way of life. Back when I never dreamed we could, and would, travel the world. But through careful planning and sheer determination, we have visited so much of this planet including our Bhutan Bucket List , The Land of the Thunder Dragon.

A Culture of Happiness

Gross National Happiness is a term coined by His Majesty the Fourth King of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck in the 1970s. The concept implies that sustainable development should take a holistic approach towards notions of progress and give equal importance to non-economic aspects of well-being.

Our lovely guide Lhamo , hiking high above the Haa Valley

The first and foremost reason for the uniqueness of Bhutan is the happy people living in Bhutan. The concept of ‘happiness’ in the Kingdom is very much derived from the contentment that Bhutanese feel about their lives. It is also instilled through the Buddhist values of simplicity and compassion.

Shoes off – custom at all Temples and Monasteries

Bhutan’s free and accessible education and healthcare systems are pivotal in enhancing its citizens overall well-being and happiness. This is a government funded system that insures everyone even in remote areas have the services they need.

As an American, I can’t say I live in a country where my happiness takes priority. Often it feels quite the opposite. As a visitor to Bhutan you immediately sense that something is different here; in the interaction of the people with each other and with visitors. In restaurants, in museums, in monasteries, even in traffic. People are happy, engaged with each other and welcoming to guests.

Traditions

In Bhutan keeping cultural traditions strong and protecting nature and the environment is a large part of the lives of local people. The Buddhist goal to become enlightened is believed to be attainable only with the elimination of all greed, hatred, and ignorance within a person. These daily aspirations combine to create a fascinating, beautiful and friendly place – unlike anywhere I have visited in the world. You will see it in the traditional architecture, the traditional dress worn daily, the strong faith, the protection of animals and care of the people.

Traditional Dress of Bhutan. Men wear the Gho a knee length wrap robe. Women wear Kira a woven skirt and top

My Bhutan

Visiting Bhutan requires a guide and a driver, as well as paying the Bhutan Sustainable Development Tax. The tax fuels initiatives to protect the land, empower communities, and preserve culture. The cost is $100 USD per person per day. It’s steep, but the tax was dropped significantly after Covid. There is no guarantee it won’t go up again, so if you are considering Bhutan you might want to come soon.

We were so lucky to have these wonderful Bhutanese people to guide us through Bhutan; Lhamo and Dam. Lhamo was an expert birding guide and we were so grateful.

We chose to do a private ten day tour with the company My Bhutan. There are many companies to chose from both private and group tours, trekking and cycling tours, bird watching and even motorcycle tours. My Bhutan gave us a wonderful experience and exactly what we hoped for. We stayed in beautiful hotels, ate delicious and unique foods and had a superb and knowledgeable guide and driver. If you want to cut costs in Bhutan there are many home stays that would save you a great deal of money, but conditions can be rustic. Do your research and decide what is best for you and your budget. Bhutan will cost you more than most other destinations, but it truly is a once in a lifetime destination.

Where is Bhutan

If you aren’t familiar with Bhutan take a look at this map. Nestled in the Himalayas, Bhutan is a landlocked country that borders China/Tibet, Nepal and India. The country lies close to Myanmar (Burma) and Bangladesh. Bhutan’s remote and rugged location kept it from ever being colonized. Bhutan opened its borders to visitors in 1974. Until that time, the Kingdom of Bhutan and its people remained happily isolated. Bhutan’s current population is 800,000 in an area about one and a half times the size of Vermont.

During our visit to our Bucket List Bhutan, The Land of the Thunder Dragon, we were primarily in the Northwest. This is the region that is home to the International Airport in Paro and the capital of Thimphu. We spent our days hiking, bird watching, visiting dzongs (fortresses), monasteries, temples and enjoying astonishing views of mountains, valleys and rivers. During our visit we learned about local weaving, paper making, wood carving, traditional housing, farming and the national sport of archery. We visited local homes, enjoyed home-cooked meals and laughed and enjoyed the hospitality of everyone we met including our wonderful guide Lhamo and our driver Dam from My Bhutan.

We loved having Lhamo and Dam with us on the hike to Tiger’s Nest

What is Your Favorite

Our lovely guide asked us on our last day what had been our favorite thing we did during our ten day visit. I was loath to choose just one thing. How could I? There was nothing I didn’t like. Of course Tiger’s Nest was amazing as expected. But the unexpected stood out; the children, the Buddhist legends, seeing yaks and birds. My first time seeing the Himalayas. The cultural awareness, the magnificent traditional art – I could go on and on. You can’t possibly grasp it without coming here. You really should come and see it for yourself. Here are someof the things I will never forget:

Unforgettable – That’s What You Are

Prayer Flags

Hundreds of thousands of colorful Prayer Flags everywhere, the fabric sounding like a flock of birds in the afternoon wind, promoting peace, compassion, strength and wisdom.

Artists

Talented and patient hands weaving astonishing works of art as one of Bhutan’s national treasures. Tedious and determined work creates something of value and beauty.

Himalayas

Waking up on a sunny morning to our first view of the Eastern Himalayas, thought to be sacred by the Bhutanese, and it is easy to see why.

Green Bhutan

Helping Bhutan keep its goal to maintain 70% of the country forested by planting a tree with the local NGO Green Bhutan, thanks to our tour operator My Bhutan.

We can come back in years to come and see how our tree is doing, our names will always remain on the plant

Local Children

Hiking to the astonishingly beautiful mountaintop Khamsum Yulley Monastery and meeting the tiniest little girls selling citrus on the trail.

Suspension Bridge

Walking across the longest suspension bridge I have ever encountered over the Puna Tsang river. Fun and a little bit of an adrenaline rush.

River Rafting

Rafting down the Mo River on a beautiful sunny day. Getting soaked in the rapids, laughing and loving every minute of it.

Black Necked Crane

Seeing so many new to us birds, as well as an unexpected endangered Black Necked Crane, one of Bhutan’s auspicious and sacred animals. The cranes winter in the Probjika Valley, from November to February, so we were lucky to see a couple of stragglers in March.

Black Neck Crane, endangered and sacred. (Photo Merlin App)

High Altitude Hiking

Accomplishing one of the hardest hikes I have ever done, at 12,000 feet my lungs were screaming. But the view was worth it in the end, and more memories made.

Invigorating (and sweaty) hike. Overlooking the Probjika Valley.

Adding our own prayer flags at the summit

That’s a Yak

Seeing a yak for the first time, these incredible creatures are a vital part of high altitude living and provide so much for the local people.

Butter Lamps

Lighting butter lamps (candles made of butter) at the Gangtay Goenba Monastery to banish ignorance and replace it with wisdom and light. I definitely know some people who should light some butter lamps!

Evening Prayers

Going to evening prayers with the nuns, in a monastery with young girls as small as nine years old. A commitment to enlightenment that is hard for most people to grasp.

Bhutan Cuisine

The food – spicy, fresh, surprising and delicious – we learned to make Momo dumplings, fell in love with Chili Cheese, Hoentay buckwheat dumplings, Spinach with Pork, amazing soups and the best scrambled eggs ever. I’ll be doing YouTube videos I promise.

Momo Dumplings filled with delicious vegetables

Most Bhutanese meals we had were home cooked and served family style while seated
on the floor

Symbolism

Learning the legends of the local deities, the symbols of faith and fertility, the rituals of enlightenment and beliefs of the local people and how it is ingrained deeply in their lives.

Hot Stone Bath

Experiencing the unique and medicinal traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath. Both relaxing and stress relieving.

Archery

Watching the local obsession with Bhutan’s national sport of archery – and giving it a try ourselves. Bhutan’s version of archery is very different from anything I have seen before – and much more difficult.

I have done archery several times, but this was harder. Bamboo bow.

Bucket List – Tiger’s Nest

And finally of course, hiking to the amazing Tiger’s Nest. Leaving early in the morning and making it to the top before any other guests, giving us unprecedented views and access to the monastery. Learning the legend of Guru Rinpoche who meditated in a cave here for three years, three months, three weeks, three days, and three hours in the 8th century. It is believed that Guru Rinpoche flew to this location on the back of a tigress, thus earning the name Tiger’s Nest for the monastery that was built here in his honor in 1692.

Dream come true. Tiger’s Nest Bhutan. No photos allowed inside, so you’ll have to take my word that it was really beautiful

Bhutan Bucket List, The Land of the Thunder Dragon

While we were in Bhutan, neighboring Myanmar experienced a tragic magnitude 7.7 earthquake. I had been thinking throughout our visit to Bhutan that it reminded me of Myanmar – one of our favorite countries. With similar faiths, traditions and the kindest people, Bhutan and Myanmar are not unlike each other. My heart breaks for those amazing people we met in Myanmar. And now Bhutan also holds a very special place in my heart. Thanks for giving me a bucket list experience like no other.

Spring in Bhutan presented so many wildflowers – these are wild primroses

It’s unlikely I can afford to make another visit to Bhutan. But if I did I would certainly choose My Bhutan again. And I would consider visiting the southern part of Bhutan to see even more amazing birds and nature. A girl can hope…

Drinking surprisingly delicious, sweet and spicy, rice porridge a Bhutanese breakfast staple. Warm comfort food at the top of Chelela Pass, 3900m

Thank You My Bhutan

Thank you My Bhutan and the people of Bhutan for your generous welcome to your astounding country. I will always hold this memory close to my heart. And I will shout it from the mountain top – everyone should visit and learn from Bhutan about how to be peaceful and prosperous in a world full of war and greed.

Grateful for beautiful weather, amazing scenery, history and culture.

Thank you for reading my post Bhutan Bucket List, The Land of the Thunder Dragon. Kadrinchey Bhutan. I keep you in my heart.

Read one of my posts from 2019 about Myanmar here.

We are so grateful when you comment, share and pin our posts to help us reach a wider audience. I am happy to answer any questions you have about visiting Bhutan.

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia

Melbourne,Victoria,Australia

March 14, 2025

Laureen

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Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Our first visit to Melbourne ( prounced mel·bn) was too darn short (you can read about it here Marvelous Melbourne Australia). And so we vowed to come back for a long stay. Given Melbourne, in the Southern Hemisphere, is sporting its summer finest when we Northerners need it most, it’s perfect destination. And as we hoped, we took our leisurely time to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia during a month long visit.

Favorite Cities in the World

Melbourne ranks for us as one of our favorite cities in the world. As you know we have been blessed with traveling the world, and our favorite cities include Paris (Pop. 2.1 million), New York City (Pop.9 million), Mexico City (Pop. 22 million), Vienna (Pop. 2 million) and Melbourne (Pop. 5 million). We have more favorites, but this is our top list. Melbourne ticks all the boxes. If I could live in any of these cities, I would chose Melbourne. You really need to visit.

Beautiful Melbourne – perfect climate, beautiful, historic and wonderful people

I realize most people would not stay a month in Melbourne. So as you plan your trip, take a look at all of our suggestions here, and pick and choose what you find of interest. There really is something for everyone. I am happy to answer any questions you might have.

How Ya Going

In Australia they say How Ya Going as a greeting and salutation. Well, when I am in Melbourne and the greater Victoria area, I am always going fine. The city is cosmopolitan with art, theater, museums, dining and recreation of all kinds. It is close to easy day trips with wonderful natural beauty. The people are down to earth, friendly and proud. Melbourne has it all. Let me tell you what I loved the most.

Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia

What’sOn Melbourne

As a frequent traveler and a former tourism marketing guru, I have so much appreciation for an all-encompassing website for activities and sites in any city. A local website that is up to date and accurate. And a big shout-out to What’sOn Melbourne, seriously the best all round, easy to use website I have ever discovered for a destination. Start your planning for a visit to Melbourne with this outstanding website.

Don’t miss a visit to the Block Arcade in the CBD

Favorite Things in the City

Our Airbnb was a little ways outside the city in a small neighborhood called Altona. Melbourne has a great train system, tram system and bus system. For your stay I recommend purchasing the Myki card for easy use. We also used Uber during our stay, and we had a car. Additionally for fun we took the…

Williamstown Ferry & The Yarra River

We met new friends thanks to Instagram and they took us into the city on a beautiful sunny day via the Williamstown ferry. The ferry goes back and forth between quaint little Williamstown right to the CBD. Its price of $35 Aussie ($27) and limited schedule makes it more of tourist boat than a commuter boat. If you have the time though, it’s great way to see the skyline and the river walk from the water. But if you don’t take a ferry or river boat cruise, enjoy the river walk to get a real feel for how important the Yarra River is to Melbourne. It’s an easy and interesting walk – learn more about it here.

On the Williamstown Ferry approaching the CBD through the Yarra River

So Many Museums

Like any big city Melbourne is home to many museums. More than we could see even during our long stay. We learned excellent history and nature information from the Melbourne Museum and loved our visit to the Melbourne Gaol. Another favorite, the Koorie Heritage Trust, was excellent for a small presentation of local Aboriginal art by modern artists. We spent couple of hours at the NGV (National Gallery Victoria) Australia enjoying its wide range of art. I would say we particularly enjoyed the Indigenous collection. These last two museums are free and are located in Federation Square, a local gathering place across the street from the historic Flinders Station. Both an integral part of the city.

Royal Exhibition Building

The Royal Exhibition Building built in the late 1800’s is an iconic piece of Melbourne’s history. Though parts are under restoration, the old lady has seen much of Melbourne’s most important people and events through the generations. Today it serves as an event space and museum, and with advance tickets you can have a tour that includes the rooftop dome. I’m so glad we did that. One of the few things we did that was not free so get your tickets online.

Melbourne Laneways

I know some cities have similar “alley” type spaces, but I have never seen anything so fun, festive and beautiful as the famous Melbourne Laneways. A result of Melbourne’s early grid layout, the laneways have become a thriving business area for locals and visitors. Many famous laneways, including Hosier Lane, Degraves Street, Hardware Lane, Meyers Place and Flinders Lane are known for their street art, cafes, shops, grafitti and bars. Through out the year festivals within the lane ways draw even bigger crowds. This is a perfect pedestrian area and one of my favorite parts of this beautiful city.

Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia

We have only tapped the surface as we Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia. There is much more to see:

Royal Botanic Gardens

Throughout all our travel in Australia we have been astonished by the abundance of stunning and FREE Botanical Gardens everywhere we have gone. And Melbourne’s Royal Botanic Gardens is the best. You can spend a couple hours or an entire day. Qantas Airlines calls it the number one thing to see in the entire country. I wouldn’t go that far, but it is an absolute not-to-miss destination when you want to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia.

Markets

Melbourne is home to many markets, some seasonal. Our favorite is the South Melbourne Market for both shopping and dining. On both our visits to Melbourne we have grazed through the many restaurants located in the South Melbourne Market. It’s a great place to people watch. The other large market in Melbourne is the Queen Victoria Market. In the summer they have a night market on Wednesday nights and we really enjoyed that on this recent visit.

Getting our produce at the South Melbourne Market

Grazing through the South Melbourne Market

Australian Rules Football

With all the time we have spent in Australia we still had not experienced the spectacle that is Australian Rules Football. It is not American Football. Nor is it soccer. It is not rugby but similar. Here is what Wikipedia says;

The Melbourne Cricket Grounds is also home to AFL

We had a great time learning about this sport

Australian rules football, also called Australian football or Aussie rules,^[2] or more simply football or footy, is a contact sport played between two teams of 18 players on an oval field, often a modified cricket ground. Points are scored by kicking the oval ball between the central goal posts (worth six points), or between a central and outer post (worth one point, otherwise known as a “behind”).

We had a blast. I highly recommend it. Find tickets here.

Festivals & Events

It’s impossible for me to list the thousands of festivals and events this city has. During our short visit we attended a Greek Festival, a Nepalese Festival, Moomba (one of Melbournes oldest festivals), and witnessed the annual Melbourne Grand Prix Formula One event. Just a few others include concerts, wine and food festival, history tours, live theater and many, many more. For the most up-to-date information you want to bookmark WhatsOn Melbourne.

Riding the historic Steamrail during the Moomba Festival

Just Outside the City

Saint Kilda

There are many neighborhoods just outside of the CBD that are worth a visit. Saint Kilda is a gorgeous beachfront town with a new pier that everyone should see. Stroll the esplanade and enjoy drinks and dining at one of the many delicious options, both waterfront and throughout the town. On weekends you really need a reservation. See our restaurant favs below. I highly recommend Saint Kilda.

People watching with a cool drink on a hot St. Kilda day

Williamstown

Williamstown, not as posh as Saint Kilda, is where we caught the ferry into the CBD (see above) and is a quiet, historic port town that is residential with a small downtown area. Great views of Melbourne from the Williamstown waterfront, also the location of the ferry to Tasmania and other destinations. We visited the Bathtub Gin Distillery on a recommendation from our friends and really loved it.

Altona

Altona, primarily a residential area and also very industrial, is home to our Airbnb . We had great access to Altona Beach and the beautiful Altona Walking Trails. The small town center near the waterfront has a handful of restaurants, grocery, post office and more. Short drive from our Airbnb to the train station.

Brighton Beach

A little further south of Saint Kilda is the iconic beach town of Brighton Beach. Renowned for its long sandy beaches, fabulous mansions and above all the historic and brightly colored Bathing Boxes. This is one of the main reasons Brighton is frequented by visitors to Melbourne. We enjoyed an afternoon on the beach and the water was so very warm.

Day Trips or Further

Discover the Wonder of Melbourne and the surrounding Victoria area with day trips or an over night visit to many stunning areas. These are the ones we can highly recommend;

One Hour From Melbourne

Geelong

We visited Geelong on our way to The Great Ocean Road but it would also make a wonderful day trip from Melbourne. Geelong has a beautiful waterfront esplanade, a protected swimming area, historic carousel, and historic Victorian homes. But my favorite thing was the Baywalk Bollards, quirky and fun depictions of people and history, there are 100 bollards scattered along the waterfront.

90 Minutes from Melbourne

Bendigo

We went to Bendigo to learn a bit about the important Gold Mine history of the Victoria region. We did that by visiting the Central Deborah Gold Mine and touring the underground mine. The gold rush boom town is home to beautiful Victorian architecture and a thriving arts district and CBD. We only spent part of the day here but I am really glad we did,

Down Under, Down Under at the Central Deborah Gold Mine

Yarra Valley

Depending on the traffic and on what part of the Yarra Valley you are headed, it will take around 90min or a bit more to arrive in this beautiful place. Northwest of Melbourne and home to the regions finest wines, with an emphasis on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We did a wine tasting at Punt Road Winery and Cider tasting at their sister Napoleon Cider. We enjoyed both as well as the lovely grounds and service.

The cider featured Cosmic Crisp Apples, a Washington State developed apple.

After wine tasting we had an amazing meal at Meltetos (more below) one of dozens of first class dining establishments around the wine region. Highly recommend.

Meletos was such a beautiful site and delicious too

Two Hours from Melbourne

Portsea and Point Nepean National Park on the Mornington Peninsula

We took a day trip out the Mornington Peninsula with a stop in Portsea to walk “Millionaires Walk” on a cliff that fronts incredible mansions. Then on to Point Nepean National Park, a historic site of a Quarantine area for immigrants and a beautiful ocean view. The point is home to The Rip, considered one of the world’s most dangerous sea passages and the mouth to Port Philip Bay and eventually Melbourne.

Quarantine Station at Point Nepean National Park

Silos

Through out much of Victoria and also in South Australia there is a wonderful collection of painted silos, each with their own story. We visited three different silo sites on our day trip to Bendigo. I learned about the silos from my fellow travel blogger Sharyn (see her blog here about Victoria’s Silo Art). If you want to explore more about these amazing works of art learn more about out the Silo Art Trail here. You can visit several easily from Melbourne in a few hours or take more time to travel farther afield.

Three Hours from Melbourne

Wilson’s Promontory National Park

We actually combined Wilson’s Promontory National Park and Raymond Island (see below) into a two day overnight road trip. But both could be done as a day trip from Melbourne. Wilson’s Promontory is a very large park with stunning views and beaches. If you are a hiker I certainly recommend it.

High above the ocean, Wilson’s Promontory

Squeaky Beach, Wilson’s Promontory National Park

Four Hours from Melbourne

Raymond Island

Visiting Raymond Island was one of my favorite things in the greater Melbourne area. Closer to Melbourne you could visit Phillip Island instead, but there is no guarantee you will see koalas there. At Raymond it is nearly guaranteed you will see koalas in the wild. And that is what I wanted to see. So we made this an overnight trip, but you could do it as a very long day trip (3+ hour drive one-way) from Melbourne. A tiny ferry shuttles you across the narrow channel to the island. It’s an easy walk into the forest where we saw a dozen different koalas, new-to-us birds, and breathed the eucalyptus air during our three hour visit. This is a must do.

The ferry to Raymond is free for walk ons. You do not need a car on the island.

Overnight Road Trip

The Great Ocean Road

Please read the blog I wrote The Great Ocean Road Melbourne Australia to see in-depth information about our two-day road trip from Melbourne to Peterborough and back. I highly recommend you see this road and try not do it in one day. Two days would be safer and more enjoyable. Take your time and discover.

Hungry?

Melbourne is home to a wide array of fabulous restaurants with a taste and a price for everyone. Though, as we always do, we cooked at home a lot, with a wide variety of excellent grocery stores near by. But we also enjoyed MANY wonderful Melbourne restaurants during our 30 day visit. Click on the link and make reservations when you can. Here is list of some of our favorites:

Big Esso – Aboriginal – try the Green Ant Gin and Tonic

Rice Paper Scissors – Asian with a flare. One of the best meals we had in Melbourne.

Farmer’s Daughters – Small but amazing seasonal menu.

Delicious Fish of the Day at Farmer’s Daughters

Meletos – in the Yarra Valley was a perfect place to enjoy a sunny day after wine tasting.

Radio Mexico – our second visit in Saint Kilda. It’s the real thing.

The Waiters Restaurant, also called the Italian Waiters Club – we visited on our last time in Melbourne and I can’t recommend it enough. No website. Call for reservation.

Yarra Botanica – right on the river walk perfect for people watching although there is much better food in the city.

Bekka – Lebanese and delicious in the Melbourne neighborhood of Moonie Ponds

The Waiters is a must visit when in Melbourne. Definitely call for a reservation at this historic and popular place.

Right at Home

It was our sincerest pleasure to return to Australia for the third time and Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia. Through out this country we have met the kindest people, enjoyed a great exchange rate, learned fascinating history and marveled at the jaw dropping scenery and nature. It is a place unlike anywhere else in the world. And we feel right at home. It ticks all the boxes for us, and we can’t wait to visit again, hopefully in 2027.

Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia

Until then, thank you once again Australia. Good on ya Mate. You have my heart.

Thanks for reading my post Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia. See last week’s post The Great Ocean Road Victoria Australia.

Abundance of Wildlife is one of the best things when you come to Discover the Wonder of Melbourne Australia

Please note, we will not have a travel blog post for the next few weeks as we now embark on our Bhutan Adventure. I hope to be posting regularly on Instagram while in Bhutan so follow along. Stay tuned for more about Bhutan in the week’s ahead.

We appreciate your comments and blog post shares to help our blog reach a wider audience in this difficult algorithm world. Thank you.

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Become a World Traveler -- Inspire

Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024

January 24, 2025

Laureen

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Location: Around the World

I absolutely love writing this blog post each year. Throughout the year I think about what experiences and places might make this list. And when it’s time to write – it’s a fun walk down memory lane as I reminisce about the previous year of travel. Maybe I can inspire you to travel to some of these places. I know for a fact several of my followers are planning visits to Australia … which was our favorite country from 2023! I hope it’s fun for you to read and enjoy the awards we bestow on our favorites and the best of the best (and a few duds too) from our year of travel; the Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024.

We are now into our ninth year of travel as part of The Grand Adventure. What a remarkable ride it has been. Not sure exactly what the next few years will bring…but it’s already open for discussion.

2024

What an incredible year. We have had a wonderful year of travel; both long stays and short, independent travel and guided. Though we prefer longer stays (and we had some good ones) this year included more short stays than in the past. This resulted in the greatest number of countries ever – TWENTY FOUR! The list includes; Thailand, Singapore, Italy, San Marino, Spain, Andorra, Greece, Albania, North Macedonia, Serbia, Austria, Slovakia, Madagascar, USA, Armenia, France, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, United Arab Emirates.

Destinations – 24 Countries & 2 US States

Favorite Country – Madagascar

I never imagined Madagascar would be my favorite country of this travel year. But we were astonished and enchanted by the beauty, the wildlife and the people. Madagascar had been on our bucket list for a very long time, and it was worth the wait.

Favorite City – a tie between Athens Greece and Vienna Austria

With so many destinations it really is hard this year to choose one favorite, and these two cities charmed us. We returned to Athens after having a poor experience the first time and I am so glad we did. It is remarkable. And Vienna with its astonishing beauty is definitely one I hope to visit again.

Favorite Town – Khiva Uzbekistan and Alberobello Italy

For overall history, beauty and unique experiences these two lovely towns, though very different from each other, were our two favorites of the year. Khiva Uzbekistan and Alberobello Italy

Favorite Island – Crete Greece and Honorable Mention to Sicily Italy

My husband and I discussed this category in depth and finally settled on Crete with an Honorable Mention to lovely Sicily. We had long stays on both, during off season in both, which gave us a great opportunity to experience the heart of these remarkably unique places. We would love to return.

Most Expensive Country – Austria

We only visited Vienna on our six days in Austria, but Vienna is expensive. Despite staying a bit outside of the historic core, our hotel was expensive. And despite loving all the food we enjoyed, it too was very expensive. But this city is worth a visit, no matter what.

Least Expensive Country – Thailand

For budget travelers, Thailand is the place

We spent a month on the island of Koh Chang, doing very little. We didn’t love our Airbnb, but it was comfortable enough and cheap. However it was so far away from anything including a supermarket or even a restaurant, we had little reason to spend any money during our month long stay.

Accommodations

More hotels than in past years but also several Airbnb’s, and some wonderful yurts!

Favorite Airbnb – Crete Greece

We loved this big beautiful stone house with swimming pool we rented with friends in Chania on the island of Crete. A restored historic home was perfect for a group. Another smaller unit next door we might consider in the future.

Favorite Hotel – Singapore

Comfortable, clean and affordable Singapore Oasia Hotel

We stayed in ALOT of hotels this year (35), it’s hard to even remember them all. But we chose the Oasia Hotel in Singapore as our favorite. In fact we just booked that same hotel again for next March. The best thing about this hotel was it was affordable, in a city that can break the bank, and the staff was great, room was comfortable and the location was excellent. I’m sure this will be our go-to for layovers in Singapore from here on.

Best Airbnb for Service – Yerevan Armenia

Some Airbnb’s you never hear from your hosts, while others are helpful and kind. We had several exceptional hosts this year, but we give this award to our host David in Yerevan Armenia. When we were in a car accident (see more about that below) he made sure we got to a hospital, served as our interpreter and would not accept any compensation for giving up his Sunday to assist us. It’s rare we have emergencies like this, but we are forever grateful to kind people like David.

David never left our side at the Emergency Room

Most Expensive Airbnb – Chania Crete

A caveat is needed here – This Airbnb was three bedrooms with a pool and we shared the cost with two other couples. It was beautiful too and we loved our stay at $174 per night.

We loved this place in Crete I would like to go back.

Least Expensive Airbnb – Baku Azerbijan

Although it smelled of cigarette smoke, our older apartment in Baku also came with an amazing view – for only $35 a night.

Best View – Koh Chang Thailand

Although we had some issues with this property and the host, we gotta say the view was unparalleled.

Most Unique Accommodations – Kyrgyzstan

Biggest Yurt ever is where we had our meals

Our tour through the Five Stans had us staying in hotels, home stays and yurts, and our favorite was the Almaluu Yurt Village in IssyKuhl Lake, Kyrgyzstan. Comfy and warm, the unique and historic style of nomadic housing is beautiful and functional and now I want one for my own!

Food & Drink

Favorite Cuisine – Sicily and Georgia

Sicily is all about the freshest ingredients

Kachapuri is Georgia’s national dish. So good!

Vastly different, the cuisine of these two unique places were amazing. Sicilian food (don’t call it Italian) is fresh and full of flavor and the Sicilians are so incredibly proud of their food. In Georgia we were astonished to stumble on the unique and flavorful cuisine influenced over a thousand years by travelers along the Silk Road.

Best Food Tour – Bologna Italy & T’bilisi Georgia

Again it’s a tie. We do a lot of food tours. The best ones include unique hidden places, tidbits of history and insider knowledge, served up with a knowledgeable and humorous guide. I highly recommend both of these tours if you visit Bologna and Tours and the City or T’bilisi with Culinary Backstreets.

Best Cooking Class – Crete Greece and Honorable Mention Koh Chang Thailand

The Crete class was amazing, a family affair in a beautiful new cooking space. With our friends we were welcomed by the family at Veerna’s Kitchen and enjoyed a marvelous experience. We also had a tasty and fun day with Bunny at her Napalai Thai Cooking School in Koh Chang Thailand.

Outdoor oven at Veerna’s Cooking School, Crete

Delicious foods at Napalai Cooking School Koh Chang Thailand

Best Meal – Mother Wolf Las Vegas Nevada USA

Best meal of the year, surprisingly in Las Vegas

We spent a few days in Las Vegas in June, specifically to attend a concert of my husband’s favorite artist Elvis Costello. We were traveling with another couple, and before the concert we enjoyed one of the best meals I have ever had at beautiful restaurant called Mother Wolf. If you visit Las Vegas you must eat there.

Most Unique Food – Tajikistan

I bet you never heard of Qurutob. I sure hadn’t. But it is the national dish of Tajikistan and it is an acquired taste; dried sour yogurt is rehydrated and mixed with a delicious selection of grilled vegetables, bread and meat. We loved it!

Best Beer – Samarkand Uzbekistan

One of our free evenings in Samarkand we went looking for a micro brew pub. My husband has an internal radar for micro brew pubs. And we found Sam Craft. It was worth the search on a rainy night.

Best Wine – T’bilisi Georgia

I tried a lot of wine in T’bilisi. Here enjoying several on my food tour.

I learned while in Georgia that this country is considered the earliest place where wine was made, based on 8000 year old findings of wine making. The Georgian people take this very seriously, and all the wine we had was excellent. Back in the USA we looked for and found some places to purchase delicious Georgian wine…it is now part of our wine cellar.

Culture

Most Authentic Cultural Experience – Kyrgyzstan

Yurt Making – not many artisans left. This family welcomed us into their home to learn how it’s done.

We only had four days in Kyrgyzstan, but it was some of the most memorable days of my travels. And two authentic cultural experiences happened on the same day; spending time with a Master Eagle Hunter and a Yurt Building Family. Both these occupations are UNESCO Cultural protected ancient activities. I feel so blessed to have had this opportunity with these people.

Most Amazing Man Made Structure – Matera Italy

Matera Italy was mind blowing – I had never heard of this place that dates back to the Paleolithic period

How to choose the winner when we visited Rome, Barcelona, Athens and amazing Uzbekistan? But we decided on one of the most unique places we have ever seen, an unexpected and new to us city of cave dwellings from thousands of years ago…the remarkable city of Matera. With a history of continuous occupation dating back to the Paleolithic (10th millennium BC), it is renowned for its rock-cut urban core, whose twin cliff side zones are known collectively as the Sassi. If you go to Italy – it’s a must.

Most Incredible Natural Sight – Baobab Alley Madagascar

I had been dreaming about seeing this place with my own eyes for years….and I was not disappointed. Nature is so amazing. Grateful that Madagascar has protected the Baobab trees.

Best Gardens – Schonbrunn Palace Vienna Austria

Well the incredible mansion/ Palace (Castle?) of the Hapsburg Dynasty just outside of Vienna was astonishing in itself, but the gardens…Wow. Hands down my favorite of all the gardens we saw this year.

Best Market – Khujand Market Tajikistan and Chorsu Market Tashkent Uzbekistan

This is only one part (the meat part) of Chorsu Market in Tashkent Uzbekistan

I loved this market in Khujand Tajikistan

If you read my blog posts much you know that a good, authentic market is possibly my favorite thing to do in any place we visit. And both of these, Chorsu in Uzbekistan and Khujand Tajikistan were all about the locals finding what they need from meat to produce to cheese and even clothing and shoes. It was perfect.

Best Museum – Azerbaijan Carpet Museum Baku Azerbaijan, Honorable Mention Belvedere Vienna Austria

The building is designed to look like a rolled up carpet.

We visited dozens of museums over the past year. So it was very hard to pick even two in this category. We considered everything from the amazing Acropolis Museum in Athens to the Gangster Museum in Las Vegas. But our choice for the top two are the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum and the Belvedere Art Museum in Vienna. Though very different both house incredible works of art and are housed in magnificent architecturally unique building.

The Kiss by Gustav Klimt at the Belvedere

Best Walking Tour – Chania Crete & Night tour Baku Azerbaijan

We arrived in both Chania and Baku with not a lot of knowledge about the history (both recent and ancient) of either place. A good walking tour is always helpful in these situations. In Chania our group of six hired a guide who was born and raised in the town, was funny and informative and spoke excellent English. In Baku we did a night tour with five other “new” friends – the city absolutely sparkled at night and we learned some amazing history we would have completely missed without this excellent tour and guide.

Best Overall Historical Site – Athens Greece

We are so glad we returned to Athens for a longer visit after having a awful one day tour off a cruise ship decades ago. This time we explored this amazing city and all it has from top to bottom. It really is a remarkable place.

Best Performance – Spanish Riding School Vienna Austria and Honorable Mention Elvis Costello Las Vegas Nevada

I did not realize what we were getting into when we went to the Spanish Riding School performance in Vienna but it was unlike any horse performance anywhere in the world. Astonishing. And a wonderful concert in Las Vegas with Elvis Costello deserves an honorable mention.

I have never seen anything like the Spanish Riding School performance in Vienna

Elvis Costello still rocking after all these years

Best One Day Tour – Georgia

Georgia was incredible – this is Gergeti Trinity Church

In T’bilisi we hired a guide to take us to the Gudauri region, several hours outside the city and near the Russian border. This is a popular ski area, and also popular for tourists to hike and enjoy waterfalls and to visit the famous Gergeti Trinity Church. We lucked out with gorgeous weather on our visit…only a week later they got their first snow.

Best Multi-Day Tour – The Five Stans Intrepid Travel

After postponing this trip a few times due to the PanDamit, it finally happened for us in 2024. A 28 day tour. We were hesitant if 28 days and five countries would be too much. But thankfully Intrepid Travel made this an exceptional experience with very few bumps along the way. This was our second time using Intrepid and I think they have my loyalty.

Best Tour Guide – Svetlana with Intrepid Travel

One of the reasons Intrepid has our loyalty is they know what makes a good guide. Patient, smart, empathetic, funny and able to function on no sleep! Our guide in the Stans was Svetlana and she was absolutely remarkable.

Nature

Best Sunrise – Koh Chang Thailand

Every morning with my coffee. It was the best thing about this Airbnb.

Best Sunset – Madagascar

A dream come true in Madagascar being here at sunset.

Best Beach/Lake – Lake Ohrid North Macedonia

On the lake enjoying a beautiful sunny day

Hiking above Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia

What a lovely surprise both on and off the water, Lake Ohrid in North Macedoni

Best Hike – Zingaro Natural Reserve Sicily and Mount Rainier Washington State

Zingaro Nature Reserve was a short drive from our Airbnb in Scopello Sicily

My favorite place in the world, Mount Rainier National Park, Washington State USA

We hike ALOT – around the world and at home in Washington State. Our favorites this year were very diverse, stunning and inspiring.

Overall Natural Beauty – Madagascar

Madagascar blew my mind. What a place.

Best Wildlife – Madagascar

There just aren’t enough words to adequately describe the wildlife of Madagascar. Photos help.

Chameleons and other reptiles where so beautiful but often camoflaged

Best Bird Watching – Madagascar

We have become very interested in birds over the last few years…but even with this interest we never gave much thought to where birds sleep. Or how they sleep. In Madagascar we had the remarkable experience of doing a night walking tour and seeing birds sleeping. And lots of other amazing birds too.

Athletic Pursuits

Best Golf – USA

Golfing in the summer in Washington State is a favorite past-time and we golfed once or twice a week throughout the summer.

Best Place to Run – Sicily

Secluded and beautiful running route in Sicily

Though we had a lot of rain during February in Sicily we got out and ran the dirt roads on the small peninsula where our cute Airbnb was. Rarely saw a car or another human.

Best Pool or Spa – Caldea Spa Andorra

Well that was a fun day at Caldea Spa in Andorra

We spent two short days in the tiny country of Andorra that straddles France and Spain. Our favorite thing we did was enjoy a full day at the famous Caldea Spa.

Weather

Hottest Day – Madagascar

It was great to get out on the water on this extreme hot and dry day

Most Humid – Thailand

Coldest Day – Border Crossing between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Icy cold wind greeted us as we crossed the border on foot between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Wettest Day – Bologna Italy

It was raining buckets but luckily Bologna’s famous porticoes kept us mostly dry

Windiest – Athens Greece and San Marino

We nearly blew off the mountain top of tiny San Marino

There were people up here in shorts and tshirt…terribly unprepared and turning blue.

Travel

Longest Travel Day – Koh Chang Thailand to Bologna Italy

Thirty four hours door to door – this day included a van, a ferry, three flights and a taxi. A total distance of 5971 miles. Thank goodness we have airport lounge privileges. Our longest single flight was Dubai to Seattle at 7410 miles; but a mere 18 hours door to door.

Shortest Flight – Trat to Bangkok

A quick flight covering 161 miles go us close to our destination of Koh Chang, but we also had to take a ferry.

Best Airport – Changi Singapore

Its worth it to visit Singapore just to see this airport.

One of the best and most beautiful airports in the world – Changi Singapore

Worst Airport – Morondava Madagascar

This place wasn’t the smallest airport we have ever been in, but it nearly was. Departure board was a white board written in colored marker

Miscellaneous

Expensive But Worth It – Five Stans Tour with Intrepid Travel

Of course a 28 day tour covering five countries isn’t going to be cheap. We had cars, planes, trains, vans, subways, all of our lodging, much of our food and the most amazing guide included in Intrepid Travels Five Stans Tour. For two people the cost was $13,530 dollars – just under $500 per day. I don’t regret it.

Each Country was amazing. This is Kyrgyzstan

The Ouch Award – Car Crash in Yerevan Armenia

It doesn’t look that serious. And it would not have been if we had been wearing seat belts.

A difficult lesson was learned when we got into a taxi that did not have seat belts. It wasn’t the first time in our travels where we have encountered this. We should have refused…but we didn’t and five minutes later the crazy driver crashed. At first we thought we were okay, just shaken. But the next day Arne had some serious and frightening symptoms. A trip to the emergency room where he was diagnosed with a concussion. He did not have to stay in the hospital but he did have to lay low for the following two weeks, causing us to change our itinerary to give him time to recover before we began the Stans tour. We are very grateful it wasn’t worse. Seat belts. Always.

Best Photo of the Year

With 24 countries its hard to choose which photo is the best….not to mention I am obsessive about photo taking. But for 2024 we choose these – a collection of Baobab Alley Madagascar. Seeing this was a lifelong dream of mine. And it was just as amazing as I had imagined.

Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024

There you have it. The best of the best of My Fab Fifties Life travel of 2024. Amazing, memorable and unique experiences with new cultures and fantastic experiences around the world. What a grand adventure it is. We sure hope you will consider visiting some of these places and enjoying some of these unique experiences too – the eighth annual world travel awards 2024. Please let us know if you do visit any of our suggestions.

High above Bovilla Reservoir in Albania. That road to get here was interesting.

What next?

As I post this annual awards I am on the island of Maui – the first stop of our 2025 adventure. Over the next year we will visit anywhere from 8-12 more countries. Those include the Cook Islands, Australia, Singapore, Bhutan, France, Luxembourg, USA and Canada – with others still in the works.

Friendly and docile chameleons are my new favorite

It takes me weeks to write this post so I hope you have enjoyed the Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024. My goal is to inspire you. The world is so amazing…not everyone is going to want to go to places like Kyrgyzstan. I understand that. But I hope you have learned something and perhaps are motivated to step beyond your comfort zone. We hope you will continue to follow us around the globe, comment, pin and share this post so others can follow as well. Thank you and stay fabulous. This travel blog wouldn’t be possible without all of you.

Beautiful memorial in Novi Sad Serbia remembering the 4000 civilians murdered by the Hungarian forces during WWII

More From the Past

If you would like to see our Travel Awards from the past, you can click on any of these links; 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020, 2019, 2018, and 2017.

HAPPY NEW YEAR OF TRAVEL!!! We appreciate it when you comment, share and pin our blog posts – especially this one!! The Eighth Annual World Travel Awards 2024. Stay tuned! Lots of adventures ahead! Thank you.

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

November 29, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Turkmenistan

Welcome to the fourth of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about the unusual country of Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond.

Where The Heck is Turkmenistan?

Don’t fret if you have never heard of this country. It definitely is under the radar for most people. This map shows Turkmenistan, a landlocked country in Central Asia. With only 7 million people, it is the smallest of the Central Asian countries. Turkmenistan is one of the least visited countries in the world due to the difficulty in obtaining a visa, and its totalitarian regime.

The Good

Our visit to this somewhat strange and interesting country was the start of a month long tour with Intrepid Travel. On arrival in Turkmenistan we met the ten other seasoned travelers we would spend the next four weeks with. This is our second tour with Intrepid, which does unique small group tours. We loved our Bolivia tour and felt confident Intrepid would be perfect for us to visit the Five Stans. It surely was, and our group was wonderful too.

Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond is not an easy place to visit…or to understand. But being with a tour certainly helped smooth the way.

Independence Park and Memorial, Ashgabat

The Bad

The country is widely criticized for its poor human rights, including for its treatment of minorities, and its lack of press and religious freedoms. Since its independence from the Soviet Union was declared in 1991, Turkmenistan has been ruled by repressive totalitarian regimes: that of President for Life Saparmurat Niyazov until his death in 2006; Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, who became president in 2007 after winning a non-democratic election (he had been vice-president and then acting president previously); and his son Serdar, who won a subsequent 2022 presidential election described by international observers as neither free nor fair, and now shares power with his father. (Wikipedia)

The Turkmenistan government has been described as stricter than North Korea. Few Turkmen citizens leave their country. Some do go abroad to study, and others travel if they can afford it. But most do not.

But our visit to Turkmenistan did not include any information on the above. The Turkmen people, including our guide, are very proud of their country and respectful and cautious of criticizing. But as an outside observer, I have to tell you, Ashgabat felt like Disneyland. A movie set. A facade. Let me start from arrival.

Entering Turkmenistan

After an overnight flight from Istanbul we arrived Ashgabat at 2:00am to find a long and confusing entry process. To visit Turkmenistan you must have a “Letter of Invitation” which we obtained before arrival with assistance of Intrepid. On arrival we got in line to purchase our visa at a cost of $125 USD, paid in cash on arrival.

Soaring marble ceilings Ashgabat International Airport

What we didn’t expect though, was a requirement also to have a Covid test before being allowed to enter. At an additional cost of $50 USD – cash of course. All of this line waiting and cash exchanging took about an hour. Eventually we retrieved our luggage and found our tour guide waiting for us and four others who were on the same flight. As we waited, we had time to admire the marble airport, with soaring ceilings. Most of the people at the opulent airport were armed guards rather than visitors -our first sign that something strange is happening here.

Designed to look like a bird, Ashgabat International Airport

Hotel

Our lovely guide Ejesh explained to us in the van on the way from the airport that we had been moved to a different hotel than what we expected. Apparently the original hotel was now being taken over by the government to host some foreign dignitaries. Instead we ended up in a strange little hotel outside of the city. We had expected to be in the city, and had paid for a nice hotel. Disappointing and all very strange.

When we woke in the morning we had a full day until our group arrival meeting at 5:00pm. But now that we were so far out of town we couldn’t really wander. We didn’t feel confident enough to take a taxi into town, not knowing even where to go, so we napped and relaxed until our meeting.

Internet and Social Media

Despite my study and feeling prepared to enter Turkmenistan, I was astonished to learn social media is banned. No where in all my reading before leaving the USA did I see this. Internet was nearly impossible to come by and all social media platforms are banned. We could not get VPN to work.

Welcome to Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond

We were jet-lagged but very curious about this country. We were also anxious to meet our group who we would spend the next four weeks with. In a situation like this it takes a little time to feel each other out, but soon we all felt comfortable together.

Ashgabat

Our first evening after the meeting we headed out to a traditional Turkmenistan restaurant. The restaurant was inside a huge and sparkling marble mall. Like all the buildings in Ashgabat it was new and fancy in keeping with the Ashgabat image of rich and beautiful.

I’m not even sure how many stories there were in this place – Berkarar Kinoteatry Mall

It’s hard to say if Ashgabat is good or bad. There is some of both. It is certainly beautiful I’ll give it that, but it just did not feel ‘real”.

Day two we headed out for a very full day of sight seeing. We were shuttled from monument to monument on what seemed a very restricted tour. Dozens of monuments honoring the great men that are deemed important by the government. Everyone from historic Turkmen philosophers to Lenin to the current President and his family have monuments built to them. As you drive around this city you can not miss that there is not a pothole, or a dead bush or a piece of litter. Everywhere workers are touching up paint, sweeping and pruning. The white marble city is perfect in every way. And every car in the city is white. Only white cars are allowed. It was a bit freaky.

Things will be quite different a couple of days later when we leave the city. More on that below.

All That Glitters

The full day tour turned into a night tour after sunset with the glittering city aglow in sparkles. Every monument and every building fully lit – from our rooftop restaurant we could admire the colorful scene.

Throughout the city we also noted that there was a uniform way of dressing; men and boys in black suits. School age women in girls all wore the same long dress and head covering; young girls in pink, high school girls in green, university in red. We had the pleasure of meeting a group of high school kids on a field trip. They were all thrilled to meet us. Meeting visitors is rare.

Many recent restrictions have been imposed on women regarding the right to drive and beauty care. This article is astonishing to those of us who take those freedoms for granted.

All of that said, the people we did meet seemed happy.

Akhal-Teke

On the day we were scheduled to leave Ashgabat we had a half day more in the city. Due to the debacle with the hotel, we were given an added activity for the morning. We could visit the Turkmenistan History Museum or go to a stable to learn about the famous Akhal-Teke horses. Arne and I chose the horses and everyone else chose the museum.

The Akhal-Teke is a horse from Turkmen, in the southern region of the modern country of Turkmenistan. These horses have been renowned as cavalry mounts and racehorses for some 3,000 years. The Akhal-Teke has superb natural gaits, and is the outstanding sporting horse from this area. Queen Elizabeth was a fan and owned several.

We had a private guide take us to a gorgeous stable about 40 min outside of the city. Back home we would call this a ranch and it was hands down the cleanest most pristine ranch/stables I have ever been to. We had a personal tour by the lovely gentleman owner whose family has been raising Akhal-Teke horses for multiple generations. We did not regret choosing this option over the museum. In fact, when our time in Turkmenistan was done, this was my favorite thing we did.

The Bad & The Beautiful

That afternoon we loaded up our group into three separate jeeps to begin the long trek out of the city. We were warned the roads would be bad. Bad is an understatement. After the perfection of Ashgabat, the quality of the roads on this very long drive was downright appalling. For hours we bumped and swerved over huge potholes and unbelievably poor conditions. It really began to dawn on us that Ashgabat is the only place in this country that the government is investing in. Out here along these dusty horrific roads the people are living in simple villages, tending gardens, herding goats and subsisting.

Not far outside of the city things began to look very different

The average salary in Turkmenistan is between $200-$400 USD per month. The few meals we paid for in this country were in Ashgabat and we paid about $30USD including wine. These meals were at pretty fancy restaurants. Incredibly though, gas here is .40 cents a gallon. Turkmenistan is rich with oil and natural gas.

This was actually one of the good roads….trying to take a photo on most of the roads was impossible since we had to hang on

Darvaza Gas Crater

Often called The Door to Hell, Darvaza Gas Crater was our destination – finally arriving after dark. What is this crazy place?

The Darvaza gas crater is a burning natural gas field collapsed into a cavern near Darvaza, Turkmenistan. Hundreds of natural gas fires illuminate the floor and rim of the crater. The crater has been burning since the 1980s. How the crater formed is unknown, but engineers ignited the crater to prevent poisonous gases from spreading.

Located about 260 kilometres (160 mi) north of Ashgabat, it has a diameter of 60–70 metres (200–230 ft) and a depth of about 30 metres (98 ft). (Wikipedia)

Over the years there have been concerns about the health affects of the gas on the surrounding area. Nonetheless the Door to Hell has become a very popular tourist destination. Recently many Yurt villages have popped up to accommodate tour groups like ours. We stayed one night here and headed out early again in the morning for more bumpy roads.

Kunya-Urgench

The very long and bumpy ride brought us to Kunya-Urgench UNESCO Heritage site, one of the oldest sites in Turkmenistan. Also known as Old Urgench or Urganj, it is a city of about 30,000 inhabitants in north Turkmenistan. It is the site of the ancient town of Gurgānj, which contains the ruins of the capital of Khwarazm. Its inhabitants deserted the town in the early eighteenth century in order to develop a new settlement, and Kunya-Urgench has remained undisturbed ever since.

This site contains several ancient structures including a mausoleum. The ancient buildings are considered some of the first where intricate tile work was used. For thousands of years these buildings have survived, even including a rampage by the infamous Genghis Khan.

I really enjoyed this stop on our tour, although getting here was not fun. I’d be hard pressed to recommend it to most people, as it really was painful driving. If Turkmenistan wants to attract visitors, the roads outside of Ashgabat are a huge problem.

And guess what? After our tour we had to get back into the jeeps. Ugh.

Border Crossing

A quick lunch stop and then a bat-out-of-hell drive to get to the border with Uzbekistan before it closes at 6pm. Seriously? Wow. And we made it with 30 minutes to spare. It was all a bit frantic. I hope Ejesh our guide was shown gratitude by everyone in our group, despite the border chaos. She helped us through the first part of the exit from Turkmenistan and showed us where we get on a small bus to ride through what is known as “no mans land”, the buffer zone between Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. Then she was gone and our little group was on our way.

The bus takes us to the Uzbekistan entrance where we went through passport control and luggage screening and then on foot continued to the final entrance to Uzbekistan where our new guide Svetlana was waiting. She was a sight for sore eyes, as was the beautiful huge and comfortable coach and well paved roads. Uzbekistan was looking pretty good…and we were happy to arrive.

Final Thoughts

I am grateful I had the opportunity to experience Turkmenistan, but I don’t have any desire to return. Looking back on it now I really wonder what is going on behind the scenes. I felt like I was being watched. What was happening behind the walls of all those marble buildings? Are people really happy? Safe? Turkemenistan Ashgabat and Beyond.

It was a crazy start to what would be an amazing 28 day tour, and things got better and better in the weeks ahead. Please come back next Friday for a post about Uzbekistan…a gorgeous and interesting country I would certainly return to.

Thanks for reading my post Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond. We love it when you pin, share and comment on our blog posts. Be sure to check out last week’s post Baku Azerbaijan and continue to follow our odyssey in Central Asia – next Uzbekistan.

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Become a World Traveler -- Inspire

Year Eight of the Grand Adventure Begins

September 8, 2023

Laureen

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Many images in today’s post from Canva

In the beginning we didn’t know if we would do this for 6 months or six years. In the beginning we didn’t know much. But eight years later, 270,539 miles flown, 128 countries visited – well we know a lot. And yes, I do count countries, particularly now as I work to keep track of the growing number.

It was 2016 when we launched our travel life. After three years of prep – we were anxious to get started. But as we launched, we also knew we had a lot still to learn. Honestly, we won’t ever stop learning. The magnificent cultures, ancient history, remarkable people, delicious food…it’s all been such an eye-opening experience.

Suitcase nomad — Our bags the day we left November 2016 – so shiny and clean. We still are using the same bags today.

Covid cramped our style for a while, but, we actually learned a lot from the PanDamit too. We learned to be more spontaneous, flexible and adventurous. We have learned to navigate a more difficult travel environment, more expensive and more crowded. We also give more consideration to overtourism, choosing as much as possible the less traveled destinations. But here we are, Year Eight of the Grand Adventure Begins.

How Much More?

We get this question a lot. We don’t exactly know the answer…but we both feel some changes will happen in year nine. Perhaps shorter trips, with more time at home between the trips…perhaps? What we do know is we have put together a very unique itinerary that will take us on the road for eight months from Asia to Europe, Oceania to Africa – hitting some major bucket list destinations. It’s time to do it again.

One Thing Different

There is one thing a bit different this time…we are doing more tours than ever before. Why? Because as we traverse the countries we still would like to visit, many are difficult to navigate without a guide. Like last spring in Bolivia, we have chosen to allow reputable tour companies to take us through three places this time; Papua New Guinea, Socotra (off the coast of Yemen), and Madagascar. See more about these destinations below.

Where do we Begin?

Papua New Guinea

Confirmed 12 days – tour

In September we have a long grueling travel day from Seattle to LA to Manila and finally to Papua New Guinea. We will spend 12 days in PNG with a company called Indigo Safaris. We will be two of only about 400 non-natives to witness the annual Goroka Festival where more than 100 tribes of Papua New Guinea come together to celebrate their unique and colorful culture. Did you know there are 800 languages in Papua New Guinea?

Hong Kong

Confirmed 7 days – Airbnb

After PNG we will head to the big city of Hong Kong. We were meant to visit Hong Kong in 2019, but the riots there had us changing our plans. We will try again; I have booked a cooking class, some tours and we also plan to walk across the border to the tiny country of Macau.

Philippines

Confirmed 32 days – Airbnb

Next stop the island of Bohol in the Philippines. We have only briefly been in Manila, and we look forward to a relaxing month on Bohol where we can kick back and regroup in October after the whirlwind of September.

Winter Down Under

Australia

Confirmed 4 weeks in an RV mainland and 30 days Airbnb Tasmania

As usual we like to spend as much time as possible in perpetual summer, so all of November and all of December we will be down under. We visited Australia very early in the Grand Adventure, but there is so much more we want to see. This time we begin in Brisbane. Then we have rented an RV for one month to travel south to Melbourne at a slow pace. In early December we fly to the Australian island of Tasmania and spend all of December relaxing in Hobart where we have rented a darling historic home.

We debated about heading from here to one or two of our past favorite countries (New Zealand and French Polynesia) but instead we will fly west. We know we will be back to those countries again some day.

South East Asia

Singapore

Confirmed 3 days hotel

I love this city/country but boy is it expensive, so we will just have a quick visit to say hello again to one of the world’s most beautiful places.

Thailand

Confirmed 30 days Airbnb

Back to Thailand! Thailand was the very FIRST country we visited when we began the Grand Adventure in November 2016. It’s a beautiful country; friendly, inexpensive, and delicious. We will spend one month on the island of Koh Chang.

Europe

Italy

Confirmed 7 days road trip Bologna to Puglio and 19 days Airbnb Sicily

Even though it will only be February, we are headed to the amazing country of Italy for an entire month. Keeping our fingers crossed for dry and not too cold; we will visit Bologna and the country of San Marino, the Puglia region and then on to Sicily.

Africa

Egypt

Confirmed 3 days hotel

We will have a brief stop back in Cairo as we transit through but we are holding a couple of days open in hopes that the new, decades in the making, Egyptian Museum will be open. But we are really going to Egypt because that is where we pick up our tour to…

Yemen

Confirmed 7 days private tour

Not on many people’s bucket list, Yemen was never on mine either. But my husband has long wanted to visit the island of Socotra off the coast of Yemen ever since we read the book The Enchantress of Florence by Salman Rushdie. This is a more complicated country to visit, so we are on a private tour. We are using the company Inertia, who we have spent months working with to make this happen. Should definitely be different…and exciting.

Back to Europe

Greece

Confirmed 18 days Airbnb

Back to Europe we go, with our first stop the island of Crete. This is one of the Greek Islands we have not visited, and I have heard so much about it. So we will spend 18 days enjoying the Greek life (and food) once again. Here we will be joined by friends, two couples we really enjoy traveling with.

Albania

Not yet confirmed

We are still trying to work our way through the last of the countries we had to abandon when Covid shut down our travels, and Albania is one. We have really enjoyed all of the Balkan countries we have visited over the years and it is one of our most favorite regions in the world. Inexpensive and so welcoming, we look forward to one week in Albania.

North Macedonia

Not yet confirmed

An easy drive over the border from Albania we could just do a day-trip to North Macedonia but we really want to spend some time in the beautiful Lake Ohrid region we have heard so much about. So we will visit for four days then return to Albania for our flight out.

Serbia

Not yet confirmed

An easy flight to Belgrade will get us to Serbia. We only plan to be in Belgrade one day, then we will do a road trip to many of the ancient and beautiful sites in this landlocked country and former Yugoslavian state. Serbia remains a less visited part of Central Europe and I can’t wait to see it.

Austria

Not yet confirmed

Somehow I have traveled all over Europe but have missed Vienna entirely. My husband has been there and keeps telling me I will LOVE it, so Vienna it is for four days. It’s also a great place to get a flight to our next destination.

And Back to Africa

Madagascar

Confirmed 10 days tour with Fosa Travel

From Vienna we will fly via Addis Ababa Ethiopia to the island of Madagascar. We have been blessed to visit several Indian Ocean islands, but Madagascar is a first for us. We have booked a private tour for ten days with Fosa Travel and it will be a dream come true for me to see the Lemurs and the magnificent Baobab Trees. A very big Bucket List for me.

Back to Europe to Wrap It Up

Spain and Andorra

Not yet confirmed

Andorra is one of our Covid-deleted countries, and I am excited to see this tiny country that borders Spain. We will fly into Barcelona and drive to Andorra for a short four day visit before returning to Barcelona for our flight back to Seattle. We expect to arrive back in Seattle May 17th; 19 countries, 8 months and a lifetime of memories.

Year Eight of the Grand Adventure Begins

I’ll say again, we have no intention of trying to visit every country in the world (BTW there are 195 recognized countries. United Nations recognizes 193 and there are a couple unrecognized we have visited including Taiwan). However, after this trip, we still have a few left in the bucket. So, as we think about what lies ahead, we certainly know we will never stop traveling. We know we have some rock solid favorites we would like to return to. We know we have some difficult countries left we would like to see with a guide. But we also know, particularly after the PanDamit, we should not look too far out into the future…things can change so fast. So, we will embrace year eight with bells on, and we hope you will come along for the ride. As always, we feel so grateful to all of you who faithfully read and ask questions and engage with us through our crazy travel life. Thank you.

Note – there may be times when I can not make a deadline to have a travel post every Friday. Additionally I expect to not have easy access to WiFi. Just keep watching and I’ll get to it as soon as I can.

See last week’s post, our final of the Hidden Gems series, Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Pampered Wilderness Millersylvania.

See our post My Travel Wardrobe – 8 Months & 19 Countries 2023 here.

Considering full-time or long-term travel yourself? I wrote this post last year and it may help answer some of your questions. Click here for Becoming A Traveler. We’d love to connect out in the Big World with you!

We love it when you comment, pin and share our posts. Thank you. Away we go!

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South & Central America Travel

A Very Big Bolivian Adventure

April 7, 2023

Laureen

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Location: Bolivia, South America

When I was in grade school, one of my favorite subjects was Social Studies. I loved learning about cultures from faraway lands, the history, costumes, traditions, and way of life. Although I didn’t know it at the time, this interest at a young impressionable age would become a lifelong obsession – to learn and understand the meaning of life for peoples of the world. And this is how it came about for A Very Big Bolivian Adventure.

Llama – for wool, for food, for transport

In fifth grade, one of my favorite teachers, Mrs. Guerske, introduced our class to a Social Studies unit on Bolivia. I was beyond fascinated as I spent hours reading and looking at the photos of the hard-scrabble life of the Andean people. For decades after, Bolivia was filed away in my mind as a destination I needed to see.

A Very Big Bolivian Adventure

And so it was in year seven of The Grand Adventure we made our way to Bolivia and A Very Big Bolivian Adventure. You might be surprised to learn that Bolivia is one of the world’s fastest emerging tourism destinations. However, the Covid period took a toll on tourism in the fragile country. As tourism rebuilds, Bolivia is currently experiencing serious economic problems and political unrest due to low pay and political dissension. During our visit we witnessed countless protests and strikes and a lack of access to US dollars available in the banks. For the most part these things did not affect our visit, except in one serious case which I will elaborate on below.

Vicuna are like llama and alpaca, but are the only ones of the three that have not been domesticated, making their wool very valuable.

Intrepid Travel

We wanted to cover a lot of territory in Bolivia, and didn’t feel confident to handle those logistics as independent travelers in this country. So we took a recommendation from a fellow full-time traveler and booked our tour with the highly regarded Intrepid Travel. I have absolutely nothing bad to say about Intrepid, and particularly our guide Wendy, who made this tour the once in a life time experience it was. She is amazing.

The Group Day One

Our ten day tour began in La Paz (see our post Living in the Sky – La Paz Bolivia), where we met the 10 other guests who would be traveling with us. The weirdest coincidence though, eight of the twelve guests are from the greater Seattle area. What are the chances?

It’s rare we travel in a group, or even with a guide, but as I said before, this country warrants it. In the past we have had some group tours where there is always that one difficult person…the complainer or the whiner. Not this group. These people were outstanding, adventurous, educated, fun and well-traveled. I now consider each and every one a friend.

Variety is one of the main attractions for visitors to Bolivia

Highlighting the Good, the Bad and the Ugly

We covered 1800 km (1100 miles) during our ten day tour. It was a lot of driving. And we saw some incredible things. I can’t possibly talk about it all, so I am choosing to give you the highlights – the good, the bad and the ugly. So here we go;

Day Two La Paz to Uyuni

We took a private and comfortable bus for what should have been an eight hour drive to Uyuni. Our guide Wendy had told us there was a possible teacher strike that may block the road, but we were proceeding anyway. After a pleasant and uneventful six and a half hours we came to a roadblock. Not teachers however. It was a protest regarding the lithium miners demands for more of the profit from lithium extraction in the salt flats. Learn more about it here.

While we waited at the road block, we saw how quinoa is grown. I was fascinated by this. Quinoa is an important crop for Bolivia.

The road block was actually two – one where we came to a stop and another 20 mile ahead. There was no getting through. We waited for two hours and when it became clear the protestors had no intention of opening the road, Wonder Woman Wendy went to work. She contacted the 4-wheel drive operators in Uyuni on the other side of the two road blocks. Using their vehicles they came to us off-road through the desert. It took them two and half hours to reach us. When they were close we unloaded our bags from the bus, walked solemnly and quietly through the strikers per instructions from Wendy. There was some concern they might harass us but they did not.

Once we got through the strikers, suddenly the 4-wheel drive vehicles appeared, the drivers threw our bags on top, we jumped in and were off, no headlights into the bush. It was another two hours through the desert to reach Uyuni. I was never so grateful to see a bed. Wendy ordered pizza for everyone but it was midnight and I was beat. No pizza for me.

I snapped a quick photo as we crossed the strikers after dark

A side note – this road block continued through the next day. Anyone traveling on their own or in the larger regular express busses that make their way between La Paz and Uyuni had to sit there for two days.

Day Three Happy to be Here

As a result of most people still being stuck on the road, on this day we saw few tourists. Today was the Bolivian Salt Flat day, the raisin de ‘etra of our tour. And after last night, we were looking forward to some fun.

This day was warmer than I expected, in fact hot, so all of our cold weather clothes we have been hauling around the world just for this experience went back into the suitcase.

The massive Bolivian Salt Flats are the largest salt flats in the world. I had to keep reminding myself it was not snow. Everything about it confuses your brain. It’s bright and white and stretches as far as you can see. Google says ;

Salt for as far as the eye can see; this pedestal is made of salt blocks

Salar de Uyuni, amid the Andes in southwest Bolivia, is the world’s largest salt flat. It’s the legacy of a prehistoric lake that went dry, leaving behind a desert like, nearly 11,000-sq.-km. landscape of bright-white salt, rock formations and cacti-studded islands. Its otherworldly expanse can be observed from central Incahuasi Island. Though wildlife is rare in this unique ecosystem, it harbors many pink flamingos. ― Google

All the local guides have learned to have fun with the photo opportunities the flat and endless salt plain provides and we had a fascinating day.

Incahuasi Island

Despite how incredible the endless salt flats were, the unexpected outcrop known as Incahuasi Island was beyond anything I could have imagined. Absolutely stunning to find this cactus-covered rock protruding from the miles and miles of white.

Salt Hotel

We ended this remarkable day at one of several salt hotels. These structures are made from salt blocks cut from the flats. People have been known to lick the walls just to be sure…I declined but it was a fascinating and also very rustic place to sleep for one night.

Day Four Pretty in Pink

We traveled away from the salt flats and into the Altiplano and enjoyed views of volcanoes in every direction we looked. The road was long as we rose higher and higher but we stopped often for photos and potty breaks. But the most scenic part of this day were several stops we made to see the flamingoes. Bolivia is home to several kinds of flamingoes who do not migrate but live permanently in this region feasting on the red-hued algae abundant in the volcanic lakes. Who doesn’t love seeing a pink flamingo in the wild?

As we finished this day we reached our highest altitude for the trip, and also the highest altitude I have ever been at on earth… 16,100 feet above sea level. And we felt it with every step we took.

Our accommodations on this night were rustic dorm style but the view from the dining area was other-worldly.

Day Five – The Ugly

Was it something I ate or the altitude? I doubt I will ever know. But the ugly reared its head in the middle of the night and I was very sick; diarrhea, bloating, chills, headache and unable to breath. Unfortunately this was a ten-hour-drive day in the 4×4. My car mates and my husband and of course Wonder Woman Wendy did everything possible to see to my comfort as I slept and moaned through the day. Arne did manage to take a few photos of some of this day’s scenery. I was so relieved to arrive back to our hotel in Uyuni. Please note – Wendy was monitoring my oxegen level and if necesary, would have evacuated me if I was in danger.

Day Six – Potosi

We took a bus to Potosi, a silver mining town in the hills of Bolivia. Although I still felt sick I was at least upright. I attempted to go on the silver mine tour with group but bailed at the last minute and went back to the hotel. The next day however I did enjoy the really well done National Mint, a museum of mining and silver known as the Casa Nacional de Moneda.

Day Seven to Nine – Sucre

Another bus; this day to Sucre. Both Sucre and La Paz are considered capitals of Bolivia, it’s a strange system. Wikipedia says;

“La Paz was established as the seat of government for the legislative and executive branches, while Sucre retained the seat of the judicial branch of the Bolivian government. To this day, Sucre remains the only official capital of Bolivia, but La Paz is considered by many as the de facto capital.“

Hiking

Sucre is a more modern, colonial city compared to La Paz. It is flatter and very beautiful. We enjoyed a fantastic hike outside the city on a portion of the Inca Trail. I was so glad I was up to doing that, even though I still wasn’t 100% myself. One of my favorite things we did.

Mercado

Sucre has a large and colorful mercado which we toured and learned from Wendy a lot about the products of Bolivia and the way of life for the people of the mercado.

Bread and other carbs is a big part of the diet

History

The Textile Museum Museo de Arte Indigena, was a fascinating story of the indigenous textiles of Bolivia. I am always interested in textiles and I am so glad we took time to do that on our own. I also was able to purchase a small and beautiful item made by a local women to take home as a souvenir.

Local women creating another masterpiece

We visited the dinosaur footprint park, Parque Cretacico, which was honestly far more interesting than I expected. A cement manufacturing company scouring the mountain for raw material stumbled upon the dinosaur footprints estimated to be 68 million years old. This is the largest collection of dinosaur footprints in South America with over 5000 prints of at least ten different species. The tectonic uplift of the former lake bed creates this strange and eerie phenomenon, so it appears as if the dinosaurs walked up the side of the mountain like a gecko might today. The limestone face of the wall secures the footprints for eternity. Fascinating.

On our final night in Sucre – our Very Big Bolivian Adventure was coming to an end. We celebrated together as one of our group was leaving in the morning, while the rest of us boarded a flight in the morning back to La Paz.

The best travel partners…and Wonder Woman too

Farewell

Over the ten days we have grown close with our new friends as we all endured the joys and hardships of a ten-day overland tour of Bolivia. Back in La Paz we said our farewells, enjoyed one final dinner together, and thanked our amazing guide Wendy for her incredible guidance during A Very Big Bolivian Adventure. Then it was time to reorganize our bags once again for our next destination.

Bolivia is truly a remarkable, beautiful and culturally rich place, despite some issues it is dealing with. I want the best for the wonderful people we met, and all those we didn’t. I hope for better relations between the USA and Bolivia, and I hope more visitors will come to experience the color, culture and geology of this extraordinary country.

I wish I could tell Mrs. Guerske how I have fulfilled this lifelong dream. Viva Bollivia! Gracias.

Please see last week’s post Living in the Sky – La Paz Bolivia.

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