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    Asia & Oceania Travel  --  Island Life

    Our Favorite Things to do in Panglao/Bohol, Philippines

    Location: Panglao/Bohol, Philippines

    We spent an entire month relaxing on the island of Panglao in the Philippines, a tiny island connected to the larger island of Bohol by a bridge. We came with few expectations. In fact, after a three week whirlwind of Papua New Guinea and Hong Kong, we were looking for some peace and quiet. We certainly found it, and a whole lot more. Panglao/Bohol is one of the most underrated destinations we have found. We loved it and will be back. Here are some of our favorite things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines.

    Panglao Sunset

    Keeping it Simple

    We originally thought we would rent a car for a couple of days to see some sights. But our wonderful Airbnb host suggested we not. He explained how crazy the drivers were, and we had to agree after just a few days of walking around. So instead we hired a private driver on two occasions to spend the day seeing sights. We also went by Tuk Tuk or Tri-Cab to a couple other sites and beaches close to our bungalow. The hired driver was safe and economical. Our host helped us secure a driver rather than going with a tour. Total cost of an entire day for two people was less for a private tour with driver than it would have been for us to go on a group tour on a bus. And we could pick and choose the sights we wanted to see.

    Alona Beach

    Since we were in Panglao/Bohol for four weeks, we had lots of time to enjoy the sites as well as time to just do nothing. We like to do both! I understand most people probably won’t have a whole month, so I’m listing the things we did and how we liked them and you can pick and chose what works for you.

    Weather

    We spent the month of October, and every day was hot and humid. During the month we saw a couple of cloudy days and a couple of torrential downpours with thunder. Weather changes quickly so be prepared all the time. October is considered the end of the rainy season, with the dry season being December to May, however the high temperature does not fluctuate much throughout the year. It was 87 degrees Fahrenheit pretty much every single day.

    Panglao

    So let me tell you our favorite things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines;

    Wildlife

    Our hands-down favorite was visiting the Philippine Tarsier Foundation Sanctuary in Corella on the island of Bohol. If you only do one thing here it must be this. There are other places to see tarsiers on this island but the Philippine Tarsier Foundation is the one that is working to protect, save and conserve these beautiful creatures in their natural habitat for all to enjoy for generations to come.

    Our visit included an informative video and then a guided tour into the forest to see up close and personal four Tarsiers who had bedded down for the day. Tarsiers are nocturnal, and because they feel safe, they return to the sanctuary each morning and spend the day. I was smitten by these darling, tiny and highly endangered little beauties. PLEASE don’t visit places that put Tarsiers in cages. These beautiful creatures only survive a very short time if in a cage. Visit the Philippine Tarsier Foundation.

    Tarsier
    Philippine Tarsier Foundation

    Our second favorite was snorkeling the Napaling Reef with Freedive Academy Panglao. This reef is off the Northwest side of Panglao. This snorkel tour does not involve a boat, instead you are swimming right off shore in a beautiful protected reef. The highlight of this is to swim with millions of sardines…I am not kidding MILLIONS! There’s also many other tropical fish, and amazing coral. It was very cool, the water is clear and clean and our guide took so many great photos and videos for us to take home. Cost was only $20 per person. A must do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines!

    Millions of sardines
    Napaling Reef, Panglao
    Napaling Reef, Panglao

    PLEASE NOTE – we chose not to swim with the Whale Sharks because we did not feel this activity was eco-friendly or sustainable for the health and welfare of the whales. We discourage you from doing this activity.

    Waterfalls

    We made our way to two waterfalls, both on Bohol. The first one is not far from the Chocolate Hills, but is down a long dirt road. Because the road to Pangas Falls is rough, not as many people visit. Our driver managed it and we were thrilled to arrive and find we were the only ones there. The set of small falls create a beautiful pool to swim in. Ropes are provided to pull yourself through what is a pretty strong current. It was a lot of fun and I am so glad we got to do this all by ourselves. Turned out to be one of our favorite things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines.

    Pangas Falls
    We had the place to ourselves

    The second falls we went to was much taller. Can Umantad Falls is located a lot farther away from Panglao and it took us about two and a half hours to get there. We did not swim here although we could have and there were lots of visitors enjoying swimming. To get to the falls you have to pay a guy on a motor scooter to take you down the steep hill to the entrance of the falls. I wasn’t expecting that so I had to psych up to get on the back of that scooter. But it was very pretty and I’m glad we visited.

    Can-Umantad Falls
    Can-Umantad Falls

    Caves

    We visited two caves, one on Panglao close to our Airbnb and one on Bohol, more than two hours drive away. We loved the one on Panglao, but didn’t really love the second one.

    On Panglao only about 15 min drive from where we were staying is Hinagdanan Cave. Entrance fee was under $2 and you walk down some dark stairs and then suddenly you are deep in the earth with the most crystal clear beautiful pool of freshwater. Life jackets are available if you need a boost of confidence, but we enjoyed a swim in the cool refreshing pool with the filtered sunlight coming through the top of the cave and the tiny bats flitting around. A definite must visit.

    Hinagdanan Cave
    Crystal clear at Hinagdanan Cave

    On Bohol, and about two hours from Alona Beach is the Cabagnow Cave Pool. This cave is deep but with a complete open top. You have to go down a steep ladder to enter. We were there right after a big rainstorm and the water was not very pleasant looking. I’ve seen photos where it is not so brown, but the day we visited it wasn’t very appealing. Also the care of the surrounding area is very poor, very muddy and rocky with no facilities, so we really thought we could have left this off our itinerary altogether. Disappointing. We only paid about $1 each so no great loss!

    Cabagnow Cave Pool
    Cabagnow Cave Pool

    Popular Tourist Sights

    There are several other miscellaneous sights scattered about with numerous options for getting to these sights. We did not do all the sights, some of them seeming a bit tacky to us, but here is what we did do;

    Cadapdapan Rice Terraces – these beautiful terraced rice fields stretch golden across the landscape on the hill above the Can-Umantad Falls. When we visited rice was in harvest and along the stretch of road throughout the region rice is laid out to dry. Very pretty and worth a stop if you are in the region, easily combined with a visit to the falls. There is also a restaurant here.

    Cadapdapan Rice Terraces
    Cadapdapan Rice Terraces

    Chocolate Hills – these geological formations are fascinating. And although the vantage to view them is very touristy, we are glad we went to learn. Wikipedia says – The Chocolate Hills form a rolling terrain of haycock-shaped hills—mounds of a generally conical and almost symmetrical shape.[5] Estimated to be from 1,268 to about 1,776 individual mounds, these cone-shaped or dome-shaped hills are actually made of grass-covered limestone. The domes vary in size from 30 to 50 metres (98 to 164 ft) high with the largest being 120 metres (390 ft) in height. One of Bohol’s best known tourist attractions.

    Definitely worth a stop on Bohol.

    Chocolate Hills
    Chocolate Hills

    A Few More Sites

    Tigbao Bamboo Hanging Bridges – I had seen some photos of these twin bridges that hang over the Sipitan River and I wanted to check it out. So we did. To cross the bridge you pay less than $1, and the view is very pretty. Although the bridges sway, I felt completely safe.

    Tigboa Hanging Bridge
    Tigbao Hanging Bridge

    Baclayon Church – historic and beautiful old Catholic Church built in 1727 of local limestone coral blocks, this is a favorite stop on most local tours. There is a museum, but we did not go inside, we just admired the exterior.

    Baclayon Church built in 1727
    Historic Bacylon Church

    Beaches

    We visited several tourist beaches during our stay and there are many more we did not visit. The most beautiful beach we thought was Dumaluan. There are many resorts on this stretch of white sand but we visited through a small private park and paid 100 pesos (about $2) for access to the beach for a day. Alona Beach, which was the closest one to our Airbnb, is also the most crowded and home to lots of resorts and departure point for dive boats. The Alona area of Panglao is definitely the tourist base, but it’s also pretty and a nice place to swim.

    Dumaluan Beach a beautiful long stretch of white sand
    Alona Beach is home to the tourism base on Panglao

    Doljo Beach is also nice, but very shallow. Much of the island is surrounded by coral reef and you can walk hundreds of yards in shallow water. Doljo was like this but also beautiful. We spent a couple of hours on Momo Beach, where lots of locals and no tourists were enjoying the white sand. It was very swimable but a bit remote to get to.

    Doljo Beach
    Momo Beach

    Resort Day Use Pass

    We discovered how inexpensive it is to visit local resorts on a day use pass and we took advantage on three occasions. All three were amazing and we definitely recommend this if you are staying in a place like our Airbnb that, although it has a pool, is not located near the beach. All passes included food and drink. We recommend the following;

    Close to our Airbnb in Dinao

    BE Grand Resort – This beautiful resort was about a mile from our Airbnb. There was a gorgeous pool, a lovely manmade sandy beach with stairs down to the ocean. We had one of the best meals we had all month in their restaurant. We paid 1200 pesos (about $22 USD) and that included $15 towards food and drinks. I really appreciated the beautiful and large locker room with showers.

    Nightly rate at the beautiful BE Grand mid November starts about $140. This beautiful hotel would easily cost $600 a night in Maui.

    The pool at BE Grand Resort
    The bar at BE Grand Resort

    Two on Doljo Beach an Easy Tuk Tuk Ride

    Modala Resort – We really loved this beautiful beach resort as well. The pool was busy but very nice. A very shallow but long white beach fronts the property. Our lunch here was delicious and the service was great. We paid 950 pesos (about $18 USD) and that included $12 for food and drinks.

    Nightly rate for mid November at Modala is around $253 per night.

    Infinity pool at Modala
    Swimup bar at Modala

    The Bellevue Resort – not far from Modala Resort is The Bellevue Resort. We liked the pool here but the beach is very shallow. We had a nice relaxing day. Cost was 950 pesos (about $18) with 600 pesos for consumables. Restaurant was more expensive than the other two resorts but the food and service were excellent.

    Nightly rate mid November at The Bellevue Resort is around $135 per night.

    Clearly if you want the full resort experience but you are on a budget…Panglao is the place to go.

    Morning Bloody Mary beach side at The Bellevue Resort
    Authentic and delicious lunch at The Bellevue.

    Restaurants

    We used the tiny kitchen in our Airbnb most days as we usually do to stay on budget. However we did eat out a few times during our month on the island. Here are our favorites;

    A Little More Upscale

    The Pearl – located in the Linaw Beach Resort walking distance from our Airbnb. Our host recommended we visit and also made a reservation for us so we could sit with our toes in the sand at sunset. The service and view were impeccable. We had a full meal with several drinks and it was only $30. A lovely evening.

    Beach dining at The Pearl
    Sunset Dinner at The Pearl

    BE Grand Resort, The Food Hall – while visiting on a Day Pass to the BE Grand Resort we had what was possibly the best meal during our month. The service was amazing, and the food was on point, beautifully presented and absolutely delicious and authentic.

    Our favorite meal in the Philippines at BE Grand

    Gerardas Family Restaurant – our Airbnb host recommended this very authentically Filipino family restaurant and we are so glad he did. It was very inexpensive, (huge meal with drinks and desert $25) the service was great and we were able to try several delicious Filipino favorites. Several locations throughout the Bohol area. We enjoyed this place so much we went again on our final night on Panglao.

    Gerarda’s Family Restaurant
    Halo Halo is a favorite local dessert of evaporated milk shaved ice and fruit at Gerarda’s

    Very Casual

    The Garden Cafe – my deaf friend Veronica, who used to live on Bohol, recommended this restaurant. It is a restaurant that employs deaf people from Bohol. We liked this concept and wanted to support their cause. We enjoyed our meal especially the lumpia. $28 for a big lunch.

    Lumpia at The Garden Cafe
    Crispy Pork Garden Cafe

    Toto e’ Peppino Pizza and Italiano Restaurant – we went looking for a Taco place we had heard good reviews about, but when we found it closed we ended up at this wonderful little Italian spot. Pizza was authentic and delicious, service was great and as usual…so inexpensive. $18 dollars for pizza, salad and beer.

    Toto e’ Peppino
    Yummy

    Garlic n’ Lemon Bistro – this highly rated Alona area restaurant says it’s Thai, but we actually didn’t find much Thai on the menu. However we did find delicious food, giant portions, lovely service and great prices. Our dinner was $25 and we took lots of food home.

    The Signature Dish – Garlic Shrimp at Garlic n’ Lemon Bistro

    Guitarwoodhouse – We came to the Guitarwoodhouse just because it was a must see. We only had a beer and an appetizer (an authentic Filipino pork dish called sisig), but the Guitarwoodhouse has a full menu, bar and nightly music in a unique setting.

    The Guitarwoodhouse, Panglao
    Trying Sisig for the first time

    Much More

    There is much more to do on this beautiful island, and we think we should come back and visit again. We did not get out to any of the outlying islands but there are multiple options to do this. Diving, snorkeling and free diving are very popular activities and draw the most visitors.

    Our Airbnb bungalow was perfect for a long stay, complete with pool, bottled water and a kind and helpful host. We paid with tax and fees $69 per night. Rate varies by season. With a long stay it included a weekly house cleaning. We would definitely stay here again.

    Our little bungalow in Danao, Panglao
    Enjoying the pool

    How To Get Here

    Originally we had booked an Airbnb in Cebu City on the island of Cebu. But that got canceled, and in hindsight we are so grateful it did. Otherwise we would not have ended up on Panglao/Bohol. But we already had a flight to Cebu City from Manila that we couldn’t change. So from Cebu City we took the two hour ferry to Bohol. See it here.

    However, there is no reason to go through Cebu. You can fly direct to the newly opened Panglao Airport from Manila. There are also direct flights to Panglao from Korea.

    The Bellevue Resort

    We Will Be Back

    We did not meet any other Americans. This surprised us given how popular Vietnam and Thailand are with American travelers, why not here? Likely the Americans here are staying at the resorts or are full-time expats we did not encounter. It’s a very inexpensive place to retire. We only met a couple of Europeans. Most the visitors are Korean, Japanese and Chinese. We thought it was an outstanding destination.

    We had the best day snorkeling Napaling Reef

    Our Favorite Things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines

    Thank you for reading our post Our Favorite Things to do in Panglao/Bohol Philippines. We definitely think more people should visit here. It is so inexpensive, and also beautiful. The beaches are clean and the food is good and the people are friendly. It is now the most, budget friendly place we have ever visited since we started our world travels more than seven years ago. It beat out Bulgaria by about $15 per day. You should get here before the secret is out.

    Our next stop is Australia for two months…we hope you will continue to follow us on our Grand Adventure.

    See last week’s post Cooking Class in Hong Kong with Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio

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    Asia & Oceania Travel  --  Food & Drink

    Cooking Class in Hong Kong with Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio

    Location: Hong Kong

    Y’all know I love to eat. And I love to cook as much as I love to eat. Traveling around the world gives me such great opportunities to learn and eat the best of all the countries and cultures we explore. It’s rare that I don’t love the food in a country we are visiting, and our visit last month to Hong Kong China was one of the best. So let me tell you about our Cooking Class in Hong Kong with Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio.

    See my post My Favorite Cooking Classes Around the World here

    Dumplings

    Cantonese Cuisine

    What is Cantonese cuisine? Focused on fresh ingredients but also relying on many dried ingredients for flavor, Cantonese cuisine is well known in the USA because of so many immigrants. Pork, chicken and beef are common but so is offal, chicken feet, duck tongue, snails and other seafood.

    Rice with Sausage was one of the best things we ate while in Hong Kong

    There are so many delicious dishes in the Cantonese cuisine from fried rice, beef with noodles, greens in oyster sauce, and so much more. While visiting Hong Kong we really enjoyed rice with Chinese Sausage, Beef with noodles, Rice Noodles, Lo Mein, Wonton Soup, Spare Ribs, Congee and Fried Chicken to name a few.

    Pots n’ Pans

    I found Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio through Viator. I’m sure glad I did. This beautiful cooking studio was founded in 2013 and our instructor (owner) Bill spoke perfect English and guided us through a private cooking class. Classes often include a market tour, and you can book private or group tours with Bill. I highly recommend this experience if you are considering visiting Hong Kong. We enjoyed it very much. Be sure to come hungry!

    Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio Hong Kong

    Cooking Class in Hong Kong with Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio

    We arrived at the studio in the Kwun Tong area of Kowloon easily via subway. Bill was very flexible for our arrival time since we were the only ones in this particular class. Bill put together a wonderful course and menu for us that included; Pork Dumplings, Stir Fry French Beans with minced pork, Fried Rice with fermented veg and Sweet and Sour Pork Ribs.

    Owner Bill was a great instructor

    We started by getting the ribs going, because they would take the longest. We browned the ribs then added ingredients for the ribs to slowly cook in a broth of sugar, ginger, vinegar, Xiaoxing wine, and soy sauce. After more than an hour, the ribs were absolutely delicious, fall apart tender and one of the best things I have ever eaten. I will definitely make these at home.

    Pork Ribs start…
    …to finish

    While the meat was slowly braising on the stove top we made dumplings filled with minced pork, ginger and green onions. I’ve made dumplings before. They take some practice, but we did pretty good. We then browned the dumplings on the stove top before adding a mix of water, corn starch cooking wine, oil and soy sauce. These little pillows of goodness were served with a dipping sauce of soy, sugar and chili oil. OMG. Yummy.

    Forming the dumplings takes practice
    Maybe not perfect but taste divine

    We stir fried the rest of the minced pork mixture while parboiling the beautiful French green beans. We tossed all that together with some chicken stock, soy sauce, cooking wine and sugar, let it reduce then serve.

    French Green Beans start…
    …to finish. Yummy.

    We quickly stir fried the pre-cooked rice, mixing in a delicious ingredient I have never seen before – a fermented greens and olive paste from a jar. It added such a delicious flavor and texture to the fried rice. At the last minute we tossed in some toasted pine nuts.

    Bill was so easy to work with. Here we stir fry the rice with fermented vegetables and olives

    So Much Food

    We sat down to enjoy this amazing feast and we ate until we thought we would explode. And then, we took home a big doggy bag which we enjoyed again the next day back in our Airbnb for dinner. I know I can make all of these dishes back home, or even on the road as we continue our travels. Simple and fresh ingredients, with a touch of Cantonese love. Perfect.

    Arne can’t eat another bite!

    Come to Hong Kong

    We loved our week in Hong Kong and expect we will come again. Whether you are here for a week or just a few days, spending a few hours with Bill at Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio is a must. We would do it again!

    Thank you for reading my post Cooking Class in Hong Kong with Pots n’ Pans Cooking Studio. You can try these simple recipes at home yourself…or visit Hong Kong…you won’t be sorry.

    Read last week’s post Visiting Hong Kong for the First Time here.

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    Asia & Oceania Travel  --  Inspire

    My Adventure in Papua New Guinea

    Location: Papua New Guinea

    I spent 12 days in Papua New Guinea in September. Twelve remarkable days. I learned and saw so much…and yet…just scratched the surface of this uniquely fascinating, isolated and diverse culture. I don’t know it all, but here is what I know – My Adventure in Papua New Guinea.

    Why Papua New Guinea

    It’s taken me a few weeks to finalize this blog post – there was so much to consider. During my visit to PNG many of my followers reached out asking why we had chosen to visit this remote destination. The best way I can answer this question is this; as we have explored the world these past seven years, our thirst to deeply experience new cultures has grown. Seven years ago I could not have found Papua New Guinea on a map. Today, after visiting so many nations (both highly touristed and off the beaten track), I want more. I am not satiated – rather I’m intrigued, engaged, and astounded. The clarity and understanding that comes from travel takes hold of something deep inside. It opens your heart and mind to tolerance and broadens a quest for understanding. And if I am doing anything right, travel gives me an opportunity to share an inclusive understanding of the world.

    Goroka Festival
    Goroka Festival

    As we begin to explore lesser-traveled destinations, we find ourselves booking more tours than at anytime before in our travels. Like last spring in Bolivia (see A Very Big Bolivian Adventure here), booking with a reputable company was important for our visit to Papua New Guinea.

    Goroka Festival

    Ancient

    Relatively little archeological work has been carried out on the island of New Guinea. On the basis of current evidence, it has been postulated that parts of New Guinea were occupied as early as 50,000 years ago. This population is primarily the Melanesian people. The Melanesians are an ancient group who migrated from Asian areas to populate the island now known as New Guinea. (Source Britanica)

    Village bamboo flute playing

    This ancient peoples developed into regional tribal structures throughout today’s New Guinea, living off the land and the sea and often warring with each other. Today Papua New Guinea has more than 800 tribal languages – a reflection of the insular tribal system that has endured for tens of thousands of years.

    Goroka Festival

    Tribal

    Considered one of the world’s most remote and least explored areas, Papua New Guinea remains a mysterious and misunderstood place in the world. A country of some 7 million people, there are anywhere from 350 to 600 distinct tribes depending on which source you reference. Many tribes continue to live in such remote areas they have little contact with the outside world. Parts of the country, particularly in the north, experience tribal warfare even today and are considered too dangerous for visitors.

    Village warrior demonstration

    Missionaries

    The earliest missionaries are thought to have arrived on the island in the 1500’s and continue to have a presence among the island people today. Through colonization, de-colonization and eventually independence in 1976, missionaries have provided stable assistance in education and religion for many of the local people. Today much of the population claims to be Christian at some level.

    Goroka Festival

    Goroka Festival

    The reason we visited Papua New Guinea in September is to attend the annual Goroka Festival, the oldest continuous festival in the nation, and where I took the majority of these photos. The Goroka Festival, always held the weekend of Independence Day, was founded by Australian missionaries in 1957. It was conceived as a way to bring tribes together in a non-violent way and to celebrate the individual differences and diversity of the island nation.

    Goroka Festival

    The 2023 Goroka Festival we attended was the largest festival ever held, bringing 157 tribes together from around the country. Many tribes cannot afford to attend the festival annually…so we were thrilled to witness the largest one ever held. Some tribes walk for a week to get to the three-day festival in the mountain town of Goroka (population 19,000).

    Black Face Jumping Tribe at the Goroka Festival

    VIP Treatment

    About three-hundred VIP guest tickets are allowed. This gives access to people like me, to be up close and personal with the various tribes on the festival grounds (a soccer field). We were allowed access to the tribal celebrations from 8am to 2pm on each day, before the gates were open to the general public. Each tribe brings to the event their special form of traditional dress, dance and music. Known as a “sing-sing”, some of the tribes do a “sing-sing” style dance with music while other tribes have a more military style of marching. Still others present a seated “sing-sing”. It was loud, colorful, a bit overwhelming and an absolutely remarkable thing to behold. I felt very grateful to witness something so few outsiders ever get to see.

    Mossmen at Goroka Festival

    Some of the most fascinating tribes we found were the Huli Wig Men, the Mossmen of Jiwaka and the jumping Black Face Tribe. Such a fascinating difference between the look and dance styles makes it clear how little interaction the tribes have with each other.

    Huli Wigmen at Goroka Festival

    Village Visits

    As part of our tour we also had a unique opportunity to visit several villages throughout the country. Our first opportunity was the Asaro Mud Men Eco Lodge village, where, during the Goroka Festival, numerous tribes from the region come together to share with guests music, stories, arts and crafts, food and dance. We spent several hours here getting our first taste of the wide variety of cultures of the Island. The event provided photo opportunities as well as a chance to talk to some of the local people about their crafts and way of life. The fascinating Asaro Mud Men, the cane swallowing Bena Tribe and the Oma Bruglgoma Skeleton Tribe were all fascinating.

    Asaro Mud Men
    Omo Bruglgoma Skelton Tribe

    After we left the Goroka Festival and drove to the Mount Hagen region, we had another full day of visiting small villages. On this day we visited a small mountain village where they presented two dances and showed how they use a bamboo flute. We visited another village where we learned about ancient tools and beliefs and were greeted by the chief, his wife, mother and grandmother.

    The chief and his family
    Demonstrating ancient tools

    Everyday Life

    At another small village we saw the local people panning for gold, drying coffee beans and cooking the evening meal. It’s important to note that most villagers today only don the traditional costume and makeup for festivals, ceremonies, special guests, weddings, funerals and holidays. On a day to day basis they will dress in informal work clothing like you see in the photos below.

    Humble dinner at home
    Drying coffee
    Beautiful produce at the local market

    The Huli Wigmen

    And finally my absolute favorite village visit was to the Huli Wigman village. These fascinating people have such a unique custom for the young men in the tribe.

    Visting the Huli Wigman Village. The chief in the middle and his son on the right. The chief has a small reed pierced through his nose indicating his status.

    The clothes, colors and headdresses are complemented by a dramatic wig worn only by men. Each wig is made from their own hair. The process of making a wig takes 18 months. Young boys are sent to “wig school” to make their wig from their own hair as it grows during the 18 months. Only virgin boys can make the wigs. Sometimes boys and men make several wigs in their lifetime. At first glance it’s hard to tell that the headdress is made from human hair. Some of the head pieces are so intricate and are decorated with feathers and other natural items.

    Wigmen headdress made from human hair

    In addition to this amazing cultural ritual, the high pitched musical song the Huli sing while dancing is distinctive and mesmerizing.

    They look fierce but they were so nice and welcoming to us
    Listen to the high note and remember the head dress is made from hair

    Cannibalism

    Because I have been asked about cannibalism I must take a moment to answer this question here. It is well documented that a couple of the tribes of Papua New Guinea have practiced cannibalism. But it is not a custom among the majority of tribes. It is possible it still happens today…our guide told us the last documented incident was in 2016. To be clear, cannibalism in Papau New Guinea is not about a source of food…rather it is believed by some tribes that eating the brain of a revered family member or chief or even of an enemy killed in warfare will give the person strength and special powers.

    Asaro Mudmen Village “penis” dance

    But the truth was that the few tribes practicing cannibalism begun to experience serious deadly disease that was annihilating their tribes. Sometimes called “laughing disease” those who ate the dead bodies usually were dead themselves within a year.

    The practice is illegal and education efforts have been made to help the tribes understand how dangerous it is. Learn more about it here.

    How to Visit Papua New Guinea

    My Adventure in Papua New Guinea was remarkable. Writing this blog post has been difficult, because this experience was difficult, but also incredibly rewarding. The opportunity to visit one of the most remote and unexplored places in the world was such a gift. I have no regrets.

    Our bus got stuck and we had to walk
    Food and accommodations are very basic

    That said, this is not a place for everyone. It’s hard to be here. Accommodations are basic to say the least. It’s hot. But also cold and wet (we went as high as 9000 feet in elevation). Infrastructure is poor. Flights are often canceled or delayed…roads are truly awful in certain places. There are bugs and snakes. And the food is bland, starchy and usually poorly seasoned and served lukewarm. But I felt safe and everyone we met was friendly and welcoming. The people are somewhat shy, soft-spoken and as interested in us as we were in them. They are extremely patriotic.

    Moon Mountain Lodge was at 5000 foot elevation

    You need a guide to see this country and many guiding services are available. We chose to do a group tour with a company called Indigo Safaries-The Best of Papua New Guinea Tours. This company does the annual Goroka Festival as well as takes guests to the Sepik River region and on diving excursions.

    Flying is useful since the infrastructure is poor.

    If you are interested in visiting, I highly recommend coming during September and experiencing the Goroka Festival. You won’t ever forget it. But additionally, the country is host to several other tribal festivals through out the year so do your research. Hopefully My Adventure in Papua New Guinea has opened your eyes to this unusual destination.

    Everyone was so friendly at the Goroka Festival

    My Adventure in Papua New Guinea

    Next week I will share with you about the stunning bird life we discovered in Papua New Guinea. A truly phenomenal collection of rare and beautiful birds call New Guinea home. Check back next week for another new post. And watch for lots of new posts in the weeks ahead about Hong Kong and Bohol Philippines.

    If you want to see about our upcoming destinations read Year Eight of the Grand Adventure Begins here.

    As always, we thank you for engaging in our posts, pinning, sharing, and commenting. Thank you for reading my post My Adventure in Papua New Guinea.

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    So Much to Love About Mexico City

    Ciudad de Mexico

    Location: Ciudad de Mexico

    Despite our hundreds of countries and thousands of miles covered over the years, we had never made it to Ciudad de Mexico until late 2021. At that time we came just to enjoy a week long Eating My Way Through Mexico City food tour…thinking that was all there was to do. Boy were we wrong. So, we couldn’t wait to get back to this fascinating and historic place because there is just so much to love about Mexico City.

    Centro Histórico Ciudad de Mexico

    Ciudad de Mexico

    Beyond the food – which is phenomenal and inexpensive, CDMX has some of the friendliest people, most beautiful architecture, incredible ancient and recent history, fantastic parks and green spaces, so many museums and… well should I mention the food again? So on this our second visit, we dug deeper to find more of the heart of this place which helped us to realize there is so much to love about Mexico City.

    Fabulous green spaces and parks in the city

    Museo Nacional de Anthropologia

    We spent three amazing hours at the Museo Nacional de Anthropologia and you could easily spend an entire day. A vast and impressive collection that chronicles the ancient and recent history of the geology, people, and arts of Mexico. One of the best museums I have ever been to any where in the world…and that is saying something. Tours are available but it is simple enough to do without a guide. Entry fee is around $5. The museum also houses a fantastic restaurant with foods that focus on each distinctive region of Mexico. Do not miss.

    Museo National de Anthropologia
    Museo National de Anthropologia

    Free Walking Tour

    On our last visit we did an incredible free walking tour (tip-based) in the regions surrounding the beautiful historic centro area. I highly recommend that if it’s your first visit to Mexico City. This time we decided to do a free walking tour of the Roma Condesa, the neighborhood where our hotel was. We used Estacion Mexico, the same tour we used last year. Our guide Eduardo was funny, knowledgeable and passionate about this place. We loved it!

    Walking Tour Roma Condesa
    Walking Tour Roma Condesa

    Ballet Folkloric

    We try to do cultural performances whenever we can. And we often do performances just to see local performance venues. This Ballet Folkloric gave us both opportunities. The show was one of the best I have ever seen with music, dancing, acrobatics and more…performed in one of the most beautiful theaters I have ever visited, the Palacio de Belles Arts. Do not miss this show.

    Ballet Folkloric
    Palacio de Bellas Artes

    Eat Like a Local Mexico City

    When we visited before, we spent five days with Eat Like a Local Mexico learning, tasting, cooking and seeing the wonders of the history and culture of Mexican food. We enjoyed our new friends and we definitely wanted to tour with them again. Eat Like a Local Mexico owner Rocio created a personal tour for us and guided us herself. A special treat for us was starting our tour with a cooking class learning to make Octopus Tacos with Chef Diego at Temporal. Then we worked our way around the city enjoying so much wonderful local food from tacos pastor to tamales and the finale was a very unique dessert made from mushrooms. Be absolutely sure to book with Eat Like a Local Mexico when you visit Mexico City. Don’t choose any other food tour…and don’t eat before your tour!!

    Making tamales with Chef Diego
    Tacos Pastor
    Beautiful dessert of chocolate mushrooms

    Pujol

    I booked our dinner reservation at Pujol seven months in advance, because I did not want to miss having dinner at this restaurant, one of the top five restaurants in the world. It is expensive, but it was a wonderful experience to enjoy some very unique and beautifully presented dishes. And the service was outstanding. Cost was $165 per person before alcohol or tips for the prix fixe dinner. This price and experience were similar to the prix fixe dinners we had in both Maui at Merriman’s and in Giverny France at Jardin de Plumes.

    Pujol
    Pujol
    Pujol

    Lucha Libre

    Pronounced Loo-Cha Lee-Bra, this national Mexican past time is a spectacle and a lot of fun. I wasn’t sure I was going to enjoy it but I loved it. It’s a real performance that requires a lot of athleticism and choreography for the scripted wresting match. The masked gladiators are wonderful performers. Lucha Libre started more than 100 years ago. Today thousands of people come out several times a week to enjoy the show and cheer on their favorite masked gladiator. You can attend this on your own, but we chose to go with our guide Alberto from Tours by Locals. I’m glad we did because he provided us wonderful insight, history and stories, as well as other details about beautiful Mexico City and the surrounding area.

    Lucha Libra evening finale
    Purchased some masks for the
    littles back home
    All the bravado and much more

    Teotihuacan Pyramids

    Wow. This place was way better than I was expecting and we loved our guide Hilary from Tours by Locals. We spent the entire day exploring this ancient site located about 25 miles northeast of Ciudad de Mexico. Teotihuacan construction began in 100 BCE, long before the Aztecs. The actual name of the people who built it and lived here is unknown and there is no written record. But they left behind this vast site that today is still being discovered. The Aztecs settled here and ruled the region much later from about 1200 CE until the Spanish obliterated them in the 1500’s. Archeological research and discovery first began in 1904.

    Today Teotihuacan is a UNESCO Heritage Site and the second most visited site in Mexico after Chichen Itza in the Yucatan. I highly recommend visiting this fantastic ancient cultural site when in Mexico.

    Teotihuacan

    Xochimilco

    The UNESCO heritage site south of the center of Mexico City is where the remains of the original lake and canals still exist. When the Spanish arrived they drained and filled in most of the lakes and canals that were built by the Aztecs. Today only the Xochimilco canals remain. Here the people have for generations used the rich fertile soil for agriculture. The floating gardens are the small islands in the lakes and canals that have been secured using willow trees. Today’s agriculture is primarily flowers, and the gorgeous blooms make their way to homes and businesses, restaurants and hotels all over the city. The tourist boats might seem a little kitschy but we did the boat ride early on a Monday and had the whole place to ourselves. We really enjoyed seeing this unique way of life with our guide Juan from Tours by Locals.

    On board the Lupita
    One of the floating garden nurseries
    A way of life still

    Coyoacan and UNAM

    On the same day we visited Xochimilco (see above) with our most amazing guide Juan, we also visited the amazing murals at the Universidad National Autonoma de Mexico. UNAM is the largest university in Mexico and home to one of the most astonishing works of art I have ever seen. The tiled building that houses the central library is a UNESCO heritage site by architect and artist Juan O’Gorman from 1952. This incredible work of art tells the story of all of Mexico from ancient times to present day. It is truly a remarkable thing to see, and having the significance of the art explained to us in detail by Juan was absolutely fascinating. Learn more here.

    Central Library Mosaic Mural UNAM by Juan O’Gorman

    Our next stop was the amazing Coyoacan neighborhood…a fantastic artist neighborhood and home to the Frida Kahlo Museum. But Coyoacan has more. A vibrant and wonderful place to explore, full of shops and history. We visited two significant churches; a former monastery Church of San Juan Bautista, and Capilla de la Conchita a remarkable chapel built by Cortez in 1525. We walked around the colorful parks and streets and had a delicious lunch. Juan took us to a teeny coffee shop that has been operating since 1953 and we also had the famous Coyoacan Churro. I really love this neighborhood.

    San Juan Bautista
    Capilla de la Conchita
    Incredible coffee
    Chocolate filled Churro

    We also made a brief stop in the high rent district San Angel – the Beverly Hills of Mexico City. Where the Spanish built the summer homes and still today the rich and fabulous live here. Cobblestone streets and fortress style mansions line the streets.

    Cobblestone Streets
    Colorful neighborhoods

    So Much to Love About Mexico City

    Since we visited the Frido Kahlo Museum Casa Azul last time we did not do it again this year…but I highly recommend it.

    Frida Kahlo (and me)

    We also highly recommend The Red Tree House hotel. This is the first time we have ever returned to stay a second time in a hotel because of an excellent first experience. This boutique style hotel is a favorite among Americans. Book well in advance if you can. Comfortable and in the great neighborhood of Roma Condesa and the service is fantastic. The Red Tree House offers a delicious breakfast and nightly wine and beer happy hour. Don’t miss it. Rooms range from low $100 USD and up.

    The Red Tree House Hotel

    Getting around is easy by Metro, Metro Bus, Uber, Didi or Taxi. Something for everyone. We took a taxi from the airport on arrival but then used Uber or the Metro the rest of our trip. Many locals speak English but if they don’t they are always willing to work to help you understand. If you stay in the main tourist areas and more populated neighborhoods and shopping areas you will always feel safe.

    We found the Metro clean and easy to maneuver

    We will be back

    I now consider Mexico City one of my favorite cities anywhere in the world. Yes I love Paris, Barcelona, Jerusalem, New York and more. But something about Ciudad de Mexico has really captured my heart. Thank you to the local people for helping me see there is so much to love about Mexico City. And there is still so much more to see…so Hasta Luego Ciudad de Mexico. Until we meet again – Muchas Gracias.

    Colorful and Incredible Mexico!

    See last week’s post Eating My Way Through Mexico City

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    NEXT WEEK our first of two posts about Papua New Guinea!!

    Become a World Traveler  --  Inspire

    My Travel Wardrobe – 8 Months & 19 Countries

    Year Eight of the Grand Adventure Begins

    I’m as surprised as anyone to realize we are about to begin year EIGHT of the Grand Adventure. It’s a unique way of life, one we have embraced and learned how to live without too much stress. It’s a true Grand Adventure in so many ways, and having the blog and all of you to share with is a blessing. So let’s talk about My Travel Wardrobe- 8 Months & 19 Countries.

    Lessons in Packing

    Our bags the day we left seven years ago.

    In the beginning we packed way too much. Slowly along the way I discarded things or shipped things home. And yet, even now, I still struggle with making choices. I’m a habitual “just in case” packer. I have worked really hard to change this habit. I know that the “just in case” moments might come…and if they do I can go purchase what I need. When we were locked down in Cyprus we purchased some warmer clothes…and when we flew from Paris to Acadia National Park and found ourselves in a hurricane we went shopping. It’s all good.

    Fewer Clothes – But Still Too Much

    Might be hot (French Polynesia 2022)
    Might be chilly (New Zealand 2017)

    I feel this time I have pared it WAY down and I feel good about my wardrobe choices. I purchased fewer things, am packing some of my favorite tried and true pieces, and have eliminated one pair of shoes. But the suitcase challenge that still gives me pains is the eight months of contact lenses, prescriptions, supplements and beauty products. What’s a girl to do?

    On this itinerary we will visit 19 countries over 8 months from mid September to mid May. We will likely encounter temperatures as high as 90 degrees Fahrenheit and possibly day time lows in the mid 50’s.

    Let’s Break It Down Shall We?

    I always do this the same way. I first consider the weather and I begin with my basics for pants and shorts. This time I have four pairs of pants (two light weight, one medium weight and one legging) and two pairs of shorts (navy and khaki). From these pieces I build my wardrobe house with mix and match quality pieces.

    Lightweight Linen Pants from JJill

    This is the second pair of these pants I have owned and they are incredibly versatile for hot weather as well as cooler days. Here I pair them four ways.

    Red boat neck tank is a fav from Talbots – 2 years old
    New print tank from Talbots
    New Rust embellished t shirt from Sundance
    Linen top three years old from JJill

    Navy Blue Hiking Pants Are Good For More Than Hiking (REI)

    These comfy ripstop fabric pants are perfect for hiking or walking around a city. I expect to wear these a lot. Here I pair them four ways.

    Light White Sweater last year from Tommy Bahama
    VERY old yellow sweater from Nordstrom and long sleeve t shirt from Talbots
    New print t shirt from JJill
    New White Hiking Shirt Columbia

    Lands End Medium Weight Crop Pants

    I bought these on sale, not knowing if I was going to like them, but I think they are fabulously versatile for summer, fall or spring wear. Here I have paired them three ways.

    Another boat neck tank from Talbots. Loved my old yellow one so much I bought another
    Lee Denim Jacket – ancient and I love it
    New lightweight linen blouse from Talbots

    Black Leggings for Travel Day

    Leggings and layering are the way to go on flight day, especially on long flights for comfort. We have several really long flights, and so often planes can be really cold. So I layer up no matter the destination. It’s always easier to peel it off than to freeze when you aren’t prepared. Here I have paired them three ways.

    My flight day outfit. Old yellow sweater, new white t-shirt and that checked blouse has been around the world three times
    Comfy
    I’ve had this denim shirt for years. Nice and faded. No idea where or when I bought it.

    Navy Blue Shorts (Talbots)

    When it’s hot I tend to wear dresses more than shorts, but I like to have a couple pair of shorts along for the ride. These Talbots walking shorts are my favorites…I own four pairs! But this time it’s just the navy ones making the cut. Here I have paired them four ways.

    Checked shirt again…it’s from Talbots
    Love this little sweater from Tommy Bahama
    Such a versatile top
    The boat neck tank…I own six!

    Khaki Shorts JJill

    I bought these dark khaki shorts new this year. The fabric is nice and soft and I have worn them several times this summer. A nice addition to the travel wardrobe. Here they are four ways.

    I’ve seen those tops before!
    And those…
    And that cute scarf I bought in Myanmar
    Simple and I love the hat from Solbari

    The Tops

    From the photos above you can see the same tops over and over. I use basic colors that I can mix and match. Although I might pull out a couple of these at the last minute…or not…I currently have three t-shirts, three tank tops, 1 long sleeve t-shirt, 2 long sleeve button up blouses, 1 linen long sleeve blouse and 1 linen short sleeve blouse. All small and packable. In addition I have two light weight sweaters (white and yellow) and my denim jacket. One scarf.

    Dresses

    I do love my dresses, especially in hot weather. This year I have two new and two old standbys that have served me well for several years. Here they are;

    You voted and this linen with Navy trim from Talbots won
    You voted and this bright print from Talbots won
    Year four of this linen shift from JJill
    Old old old but still functional green dress from Travel Smith

    Swimsuit

    I’ve decided on two one-piece suits this time…and I might also bring a two-piece…not sure. Although everyone loved the white one piece I had last year…it didn’t make the cut. It might be cute but it’s uncomfortable and hard to get in and out of. Who has time for that? In addition to these suits I’ll pack my sarong and coverup too.

    New from Lands End
    Three years and going strong on this suit from Nordstrom

    What About The Shoes

    I’ve spent the summer test driving shoes…one of the most difficult things to decide on and to pack. I no longer wear flip-flops (danger danger!) so now have an Ecco slip on that might look dorky but is so comfy. I also purchased my second pair of Ecco strappy sandals; new pair of keen and new sneaker by Kizik. AND instead of a hiking shoe and a running shoe I now have a trail runner that will fill both needs. Those are from Brooks.

    Keens Left and Ecco Right
    Ecco
    Brooks Left and Kizik Right

    My Travel Wardrobe – 8 Months & 19 Countries

    I of course will also pack my running clothes, underwear and coat. It may seem like a lot, but it is significantly less than last year. Last year I carried a lot of winter clothes because it was going to be very chilly in Bolivia. However it was a heat wave in Bolivia and we didn’t wear most of what we brought. As far as things like the yellow sweater and even the black leggings…if I’m not wearing those it won’t break my heart to let those go along the journey. Easily replaced.

    Logan Airport Sunrise

    This is my plan. I’ll finalize everything over the next 14 days…we fly on September 9th. The countdown is on! My Travel Wardrobe – 8 months & 19 Countries. Let’s do it!

    See last week’s post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Hood Canale. Come back next Friday for our final Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Pampered Wilderness Millersylvania.

    And watch for our post about where we are traveling this year. It will post on September 8th. As always, I can’t tell you how much your support of our travels and this blog mean to me. You are the best.

    The Grand Adventure continues…

    Inspire  --  North America Travel

    Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Point Defiance Rose Garden

    If you are a resident of the greater Tacoma/Pierce County area, you may question Point Defiance as a “hidden gem”. But take a moment to ask your friends who live even as close as Seattle, or anywhere else and you will likely find this hidden gem is lesser known than you think. And perhaps you’d like to keep it that way…I get it. It really is a jewel for those of us who live close and frequent it’s water access, hiking trails, historic sites, zoo and aquarium. But this local Point Defiance lover would venture to say the 760 acre secret urban oasis has plenty of room for locals and visitors alike. So here is my post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Point Defiance Rose Garden.

    Golden

    History

    Long before it became a park in 1888 Point Defiance was part of the homelands of the Puyallup People. Still today the local Native Americans cherish the park which was a hunting and fishing grounds. Over the decades Point Defiance has evolved and today several historic structures remain, as do new and emerging public spaces.

    My Mom enjoying the arched roseway

    The Rose Garden

    It’s difficult for me to chose a favorite spot in Point Defiance Park, and my husband and I frequent the park regularly. But recently I have re-discovered the Rose Garden and realized how easily it is to miss this hidden gem. Although located near to the entrance of the park, it’s easy to drive right by as you are looking for parking. So take time and look around, for this Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Point Defiance Rose Garden.

    Unique Rose species

    The Rose Garden began in the late 1800’s and today the oldest rose is from 1895. Today’s Rose Garden is more than an acre and has a wide variety of roses including miniatures and climbers. Peak bloom time is in the summer, but the garden also includes a Dahlia Garden that is beautiful in summer and fall. In fact, the surrounding area is home to many beautiful plants and trees creating a haven all year around.

    The garden is surrounded by a high but beautifully designed fence to keep the deer away from the tasty roses. Within the protected garden is a gazebo that is frequently used for weddings. Next door to this area is the historic Point Defiance Lodge, built to house the superintendent in 1898 today it is home to staff offices.

    Check out the Antique Sandwich Company only a couple blocks away for a great lunch when you visit.

    Antique Sandwich Company

    Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Point Defiance Rose Garden

    I love Point Defiance Park and all it offers to the public for free. It truly is the Central Park of the South Puget Sound region, and we are so lucky to have it in our own back yard. I for one, welcome visitors from near and far to come discover the hidden gem, and take some time to stop and smell the roses.

    Me Enjoying a stroll through the garden

    Thanks for reading my post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Point Defiance Rose Garden. See last week’s post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Linger Boutique.

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    Get Directions to Point Defiance Rose Garden

    Point Defiance Rose Garden
    Inspire  --  North America Travel

    Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Linger Boutique

    Though this blog is primarily about tourism, travel and exploration – I have never kept it a secret my belief that women in their Fabulous Fifties and surrounding generations are still kept from living to their potential. A “double-standard” if you will has, through the generations, created an unobtainable female convention with expectations to be perfect as a mother, wife, career-women and friend.

    This conjecture is now being questioned as women look to be happier and more fulfilled in all aspects of their lives, including in their own bodies. One local hidden gem in Olympia is trying to help women understand the stages of life, explore what it means to be female and learn to enjoy pleasure without objectification. Let’s talk about it and this Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Linger Boutique.

    Ideas to feel pretty

    Let’s Linger

    Shauna Stewart , founder and owner of Linger Boutique in Olympia Washington says it so eloquently on her website that I am direct quoting here. What is Linger? Why is Linger a place for women, by women? She says;

    On a Mission

    We are on a mission to slow it down. We believe in taking time for what matters most: self love, meaningful relationships, simple pleasures, and deep intimacy.

    With a Vision

    We are cultivating a more connected world by making it more comfortable to access intimacy and sexual wellness offerings. Defined by comfort and beauty, we imagine a world where more people feel free to live fuller expressions of themselves by taking time for rest, connection and pleasure.

    Ideas for self-care

    Rest

    My key take-away from my afternoon with Shauna was the emphasis on rest. Women often don’t. Not only don’t they rest, they do not put their health, desires and self-care first. No shit, Sherlock – life is complicated. Have the kids done their homework? Where is that report I need to look at for tomorrow’s meeting? Did the laundry get put in the dryer? What do you mean you’re golfing on Saturday…who’s gonna mow the lawn?

    As we manage (or not) our families and careers, personal wellness gets put on the back burner…and so does rest. We can’t be our best without rest. If we take care to understand what our bodies are saying to us we can thrive better in the chaos, be more than just “givers”, be healthier and kinder.

    Ideas for pleasure

    Destigmatize

    At Linger, Shauna wants to destigmatize the things that make us feel most alive – rest and pleasure. But without the taboo that comes with talking about sexuality. Workshops, products and styles at Linger are designed to create a holistic approach that embraces being female. This includes a safe place to learn, ask questions, prioritize and embrace the slow living movement. Let’s talk about all the stuff we never learned from our mothers, sex ed class, our doctor or our own experience. Let’s talk about our body…its the only one you got.

    With my friend Shauna at Linger Boutique

    Innovative

    Yep – it’s innovative. And essential. Linger is a unique and beautiful space for the body and soul. Let’s slow it down, and appreciate our one and only body – no matter what generation you are occupying. Simple pleasure….that’s the Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Linger Boutique.

    Need directions to Linger in Olympia?

    Thanks for reading my post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Linger Boutique. Read last week’s post Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Bloedel Gardens

    Come back next Friday for another Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest

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