One of the most frequent questions I get asked is; “How do you find information and decide where to go and what to do when making travel plans?” In today’s world where we have a computer in our pocket, it is so incredibly easy! I can’t imagine trying to live a full-time travel life 30 years ago without the instant access we have now. Today travel apps, travel blogs and Pinterest are my go to source for ideas on places to travel and things to do.
That said, it can also be overwhelming because there is SO MUCH information out there. Where to start? I recommend you narrow it down and one of my favorite apps is GPSMyCity. You have seen me mention GPSMyCity multiple times in my blog posts over the years. It is a great place to get guided map tours, as well as read travel articles from experienced travel writers…like me! It’s fun to Travel Smart and Easy with GPS My City App.
Why GPS My City?
This app is great…and it just keeps getting better. For years we have used it for guided walking tour all around the world. Now, travel writers like myself will have featured articles you can download directly through the GPSMyCity App. Once downloaded it will be available to you to use, even without internet connection.
I am partnering with GPSMyCity, as one of their featured travel writers. For a limited time (July 7-21, 2025) my readers will have access via the GPSMyCity app to three of my articles FREE of charge;
It’s an awesome opportunity to check out GPSMyCity, and get to know a fabulous travel planning tool. A tool that I have used around the world in many of the 147 countries to learn, grow and experience the rich cultures and history of the world. Just like me, you can Travel Smart and Easy with GPS My City App.
Next use the search bar to type in any destination. Chances are good you will find a travel article (maybe mine!) for the destination you want to explore.
Next download the articles so you have access to them offline…then get ready to explore!
Try It Today
Want to try it? You definitely should. Click and get started at www.GPSMyCity.com and be sure to check out my free featured articles between July 7-21 so you can Travel Smart and Easy with GPS My City App.
Port Gamble, Washington, at the northern tip of the Kitsap Peninsula, is a historic mill town. Founded in 1853 by Pope and Talbot’s Puget Mill Company. Originally known as Teekalet, the name was changed to Port Gamble after the bay it is situated on. Let me tell you about one of my favorite Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Port Gamble Washington.
Stroll around this preserved mill town
History
Founders Josiah Keller, William Talbot, and Andrew Pope developed the company town reflecting the New England style of East Machias, Maine. Port Gamble served as a lumber community, shipping lumber worldwide. After 142 years, the mill closed in 1995. The town has been preserved as a National Historic Landmark District, showcasing its unique 19th-century architecture.
So many historic buildings to admire
Entrance to the Historic Museum
Registered Historic Landmark
Where is Port Gamble
It’s a perfect stop for travelers headed to the Olympic Peninsula via Bainbridge Island or the Kitsap Peninsula. An unincorporated community, it is part of the Port Gamble Historic District, a National Historic Landmark. Port Gamble sits on the west side of of Port Gamble Bay and near the shores of Hood Canal. The Port Gamble S’Kallam Reservation is on the east side. It is definitely a Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Port Gamble Washington.
A perfect place to order a take away lunch and wander down to the picnic tables with a view. Easy to order ahead on the website. There are a few tables inside too and a great espresso stand.
Butcher Baker Provisions is housed in a historic service station
Shared this giant fried chicken sandwich with my mom. It was amazing
You must spend some time in this unique shop with a wonderful selection of unique items. For gifts or for yourself, it’s hard to leave the Port Gamble General Store without a treasure. A small cafe in the back serves sandwiches and ice cream. A new restaurant is slated for late 2025 as well.
With extra time you should visit this lovely forested 3500 acre park. Trails for walking, biking, and horses, and access to water for kayaks. Just south of the town of Port Gamble.
Port Gamble Heritage Forest Park
Make a Visit
Port Gamble is close to many other fabulous Kitsap Peninsula destinations like Poulsbo and Bainbridge. It is also an easy day trip from Bremerton, Tacoma, or Seattle. Make a visit to this true hidden gem, and step back in time for a perfect day. It is a favorite Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Port Gamble Washington.
You may read this title and think – Portland is not a hidden gem. I absolutely agree! Quirky and delicious Portland is far from a hidden gem. It is a well known Oregon destination and Oregon’s largest city (620,000). But tucked away in its fabulous little neighborhoods are many wonderful places that are hidden gems. And a few of those I am going to share with you in today’s post, Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Portland Oregon. And don’t miss a special offer in this post for a special Portland tour…
Welcome to Oregon
Portlandia
The land of Portland is home to many iconic places including Powell’s City Books, Voodoo Donuts, The Pearl, Oregon Museum of Science and Industry, Portland Japanese Garden, McMenamins and the Portland Trail Blazers – to name a few. All of these awesome and well known. But on our recent visit to Portland we set out to visit new to us places. We were looking for places that locals likely know, but me as a visitor had yet to explore. We found a colorful and fun collection of Portland treasures. So here they are, my hidden gems of the Pacific Northwest – Portland Oregon. I welcome you to add more in the comments!
The famous Portland Oregon sign
Go Outside
My visits to Portland have always been brief – a day or two at the most. But I had a little more time on this long weekend, so we made a point to enjoy some outdoor hiking and flower sniffing;
This immense urban forest park covers more than 5100 acres with over 80 miles of trails. We were astonished by the vast park just west of the city of Portland. We did a five mile hike through thick forests and shared the trail with a few other hikers, walkers and mountain bikers. It was beautiful, peaceful and a true hidden gem.
Not to be missed, the hillside Hoyt Arboretum is a testament to Portland’s forefathers who valued forests and education and had the foresight to preserve this beautiful space. Open year around and FREE OF CHARGE this amazing park is home to 2300 species from around the world. I highly recommend it..
I don’t know how I have never been here. We were lucky to visit during the peak of rose season, and we absolutely marveled in this free park, home to 10,000 individual rose bushes. Founded in 1889, the Portland Rose Society is a nonprofit organization offering educational programs on rose culture and encouraging the use of roses in the landscape. The primary purpose of the garden is to serve as a testing ground for new rose varieties. I will certainly visit here again in the future.
A definite hidden gem. I will stay here again. We chose this hotel because it was close to Keller Auditorium where we were seeing Elvis Costello in concert. It’s a bit south as far as downtown is laid out, but we walked everywhere (five minutes to the river and 15 minutes to the Pearl). For only about $160 a night we had a comfortable room, secure parking (extra), beautiful patio, breakfast, excellent happy hour and a free s’mores hour. How fun is that?
Comfy room at Hotel Zags
Funky and fun art at Hotel Zags – a definite hidden gem of the Pacific Northwest
Happy Hour at Hotel Zags
S’mores Hour every night at Hotel Zags
Wander Wonder
On Saturday we decided to just wander, both on foot and in the car and here are a few hidden gems we discovered along the way;
Southeast Division street is one of Portland’s coolest neighborhoods with eclectic mix of funky, fun and food too. We were not looking for anything specific, but I had never wandered this area, so that is exactly what we did. Great coffee shops, restaurants, vintage, book store and more.
Not a hidden gem for locals, this riverside market is celebrating 50 years, and is one of the original outdoor markets. Today every town seems to have a farmers or craft market. But this one is tried and true and not to be missed when visiting Portland on a weekend.
Serving Portland since 1919, they don’t make ’em like this anymore. Selling classic western, cowboy boots, Pendleton blankets and more. It’s like stepping back in time.
Yep. I said Ghost Tour. We have done one other Ghost Tour in our travels and loved it. A Ghost Tour is much like a walking history tour, but with some terrifically tragic history and often debauchery thrown in. We booked with USA Ghost Adventures (similar tours around the country) and our Portland Ghost Tour guide Victoria Rose was spot on for the theme. Dressed the part and with a wonderful tour presentation, which she told me she had worked to develop and present over a decade. Portland has some sad events, much like most of the rough and tumble west coast cities that developed in the 1800’s. We learned about the Shanghai Tunnels, Portland’s Chinatown (once one of the largest in the country and today just a shell of itself), the tuberculosis plague, prohibition and prostitution. The tour ended at what is considered one of the city’s most haunted space – a parking lot. Here the site of a mass grave for dozens if not hundreds of the Chinook Nation. After three structures burnt to the ground on this property, no one will build there and it is a parking lot.
Learning Portland History
Old Town
I am a ghost skeptic, but I enjoyed the tour a lot, learned great history and stories and found our guide very entertaining. I highly recommend it for something educational, fun and fantastical. And if you book this tour (or maybe you want to try the Lizzie Borden tour), my readers get a 10% discount. So why not try it? Use Code FAB50S when booking at US Ghost Tours – if you dare…
Lots of tunnels run under our feet in Old Town
Victoria Rose had a fun and engaging tour
A little editing magic to this photo for a spooky effect
Fill Your Belly
Of course no matter where we are, food plays a big part in our travels. Portland is a wonderful foodie city, with something for everyone. We went in search of new-to-us places – from one of Portland’s top rated restaurants to Portland’s famous Food Truck Pods. Here is what we found;
Portland is home to 76 Food Truck “pods” as they are called here, with more than 500 food trucks/carts active. Isn’t that amazing? Though not the original city to host food trucks, Portland was one of the earliest municipalities to embrace this food culture. Today it is a integral part of this foodie town. We had never explored the “pods” located on the east side of the river, so on this trip we drove to the Hawthorne Asylum Food Pod located in Southeast Portland. We found street parking and enjoyed this colorful and busy spot, with delicious local beer too. I would go back here for sure.
As many of our readers know, we like beer. Well my husband loves beer. And Portland, like much of the Pacific Northwest, is a beer lover’s haven. Arne chose to visit Grand Fir Brewing where we enjoyed several of their beers and a really delicious lunch too. Grand Fir has a female brewmaster and owner, so I’m all over supporting women owned, local owned and Pacific Northwest businesses. Food was great too.
Born in Portland in 1999, Stumptown Coffee (Portland was once nicknamed Stumptown after they cut down all the trees) can now be found in many other cities too. But Portland loves their Stumptown, so we had to try it. We loved the funky vibe of the Stumptown location in Old Town, and it was a great place to have a cuppa, and watch Portland wake up.
One of the best meals we have had in a long time, we chose Q because it had great ratings and it was walking distance from our hotel. Service was great and they asked right up front if we had a time crunch. Since we were headed to a concert at Keller Auditorium, they assured us we would get out with plenty of time.
Warm olives and hummus
Amazing Lamb
The menu was amazing, unique and northwest. We started with warm olives and a delicious deep fried spring roll. So good. I chose the lamb, although I was waffling and almost had the catch of the day. Lamb was perfect. Arne had Osso Bucco, one of his favorites and certainly not something I make for him at home! So we were both very happy with the food, service and the ambiance. Reservations a must at this trendy Portland hot spot. Don’t miss it!
Portland’s go-to for comfort food since 1992, we had to visit for the first time, after reading the reviews. It was a Sunday and also Father’s Day so I was really glad we had made reservations. It was crowded, but the food was great and the coffee even better. I had the Northwest Salmon Hash and Eggs and Arne chose the Corned Beef Hash and Eggs. I was tempted by the Eggs Benedict, but I order that so often I thought I would be a rebel and try something new. Glad I did!
What a wonderful surprise to find Nordic Northwest, a place I had never heard of before. We went in search of Olle Bolle, the last of the Pacific Northwest Thomas Dambo trolls I wanted to see. And “ya sure ya betcha” we found him – at Nordic Northwest. What a wonderful spot for food and education and heritage of the Nordic history of the region.
Olle Bolle at Nordic Northwest
Peek a boo!
About 20 min outside of Portland, check out the Nordic Northwest calendar of events, make a reservation for good Scandinavian meal, or bring a picnic and enjoy visiting Olle Bolle. The original Scandia House on the property is open for tours a few times a year. Check the schedule to learn more.
I loved it.
My new friend Olle Bolle
Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Portland Oregon
We loved our visit to Portland and enjoyed an adventure to discover new-to-us gems. If Portland is new to you, include our recommendations here in your itinerary. If you are visiting again, you might enjoy some hidden gems, or you certainly can find your own hidden gems in this West Coast city. Thanks for reading my Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – Portland Oregon post.
We were lucky to encounter the most charming little hidden gem, on Washington’s Key Peninsula. We stayed in the KPMushroom House, nestled in the woods next to Penrose Point State Park. Only 30 minutes from Gig Harbor, 45 minutes from Tacoma, an hour and 15 minutes from Seattle and 3 hours from Portland, it’s a perfect get-away any time of the year. Let me tell you about this Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – The Mushroom House Key Peninsula.
Couldn’t be cuter
What is a Mushroom House?
Not only is this magical cabin in the woods shaped like a mushroom, it is loaded with charming mushroom touches both obvious and hidden. Built by a young couple, Rod and Shannon, the project, like most, presented more challenges and a higher cost than originally expected. More than three years after breaking ground, Shannon and Rod celebrated the completion of their artistic creation – a true Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – The Mushroom House Key Peninsula.
Morning coffee under the forest canopy
Interior is a work of art
Hidden nooks and crannies around every corner
“Found” treasures like this giant bellows add so much drama and fun
Tragedy
But this fairy tale came to a stop, when Rod was killed in 2023 while flying solo in his Cessna over the Olympic Peninsula. This tragedy was, of course, devastating to Shannon and Rod’s family and friends – many who had helped bring the Mushroom House to life. Shannon was determined to keep the house in Rod’s memory, and she has worked tirelessly to create a happy ending.
Gorgeous staircase including a tree on top
Multiple well throughout outdoor spaces
Believing in Magic
If you are looking to find a little magic in the woods, The Key Peninsula Mushroom house is available to rent on Airbnb. We visited midweek in June, before the busy summer rush. And we were enchanted by so many special little touches;
Eclectic and Reclaimed
The 930 square foot house sleeps four with a main loft bedroom and a smaller Murphy Bed in the living room. The reclaimed and natural additions to the construction include beautiful wood from the property, wood and concrete countertops and cabinets, and vintage or antique items turned into useful and beautiful additions. And everywhere you look – mushrooms.
Eclectic
Reclaimed
Mushroom are everywhere
Never Never Land
If you grew up in the Pacific Northwest in the 60’s and 70’s you probably visited Never Never Land at Point Defiance in Tacoma. I definitely did. Back when kids were not stimulated all day by screens and devices, Never Never Land was a magical place for kids. I took my young children there too, in the 1990’s before it closed due to lack of interest and changing times. I have a framed postcard in my kitchen of Humpty Dumpty at Never Never Land.
Little Miss Muffet sat on her tuffet
Little Jack Horner sat in his corner
Rod, like many from Tacoma and beyond, felt nostalgia for Never Never Land, and when some of the original figures went up for auction, he purchased them. Today, as you wander the little trail near the Mushroom House, you encounter Little Miss Muffet, Little Jack Horner and Three Men in a Tub. I remember them all with a fondness that is difficult to explain if you are not from the Pacific Northwest. But The Mushroom House has brought them back to life as part of this Hidden Gems of the Pacific Northwest – The Mushroom House Key Peninsula.
Rub a Dub Dub, Three Men in a Tub
This is my Never Never Land Postcard which hangs in my kitchen with other vintage postcards
Beneath the Twinkling Stars
Multiple outdoor spaces provide both day and evening nooks to relax and enjoy some forest bathing beneath the stars. A hot tub is available as well as two separate fire areas, one a fire pit the other a fireplace. Shannon provides fixins for s’mores too. Just behind the Mushroom House the 2 acre property opens up into a meadow, a great place to throw a Frisbee, do yoga or star gaze.
Firepit and wood is provided
Covered seating area perfect for all seasons
Hot tub too
Making s’mores after dinner
You May Never Want to Leave
The Mushroom House is within walking distance of Penrose Point State Park, a perfect place to beach comb or hike. Penrose is one of my favorite State Parks and it too is a hidden gem. It’s also a short drive to Key Center where you will find a grocery store and other services. 2 Margaritas Restaurant is only about a mile from the house. Staying longer you might consider a day in Belfair or Gig Harbor or a drive around the Hood Canal.
Awesome garden
Perfect touches on theme
The beach at Penrose Point State Park
The dock at Penrose Point State Park
Or you may want to just put your feet up, read a book, and breathe. It really is one of the most peaceful places I have ever had the pleasure of staying. A magical fairy tale that might just be the happy ending you are looking for. Book your stay here.
We spent nine days traveling in France by rail from Bordeaux to Paris on board the SNCF, the French rail service. We visited Lyon, Dijon and Luxembourg before reaching our final destination of Paris. Train travel in Europe is an excellent way to go, but be aware! We made a few mistakes and learned a few things. Here is a recap of our nine day trip – All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail.
Upper level on our first leg
Bordeaux
After four weeks living in Bordeaux we packed up and left with regrets. We truly loved our time in that wonderful city and we will definitely return. The morning we left to begin our traveling in France by rail adventure, our train departed at 6:00am…so the Uber arrived at 5:00am.
Bordeaux to Lyon Six Hours
Since we travel for extended periods we are not light packers, and this is the main drawback of traveling by rail. Several of our trains, including this first one, we were seated in the upper deck. It’s not an easy task dragging bags up the narrow stairs. Additionally the luggage racks are not big. On our first trek there were several cyclists, but no bike racks. Some trains do offer racks for bicycles. But on this first train the majority of the luggage space for our first leg was taken by bikes, leaving us with minimal options for our luggage. First lesson, when traveling in France by rail pack light.
Early morning departure
Sunrise views
We watched the sun come up and Venus rising too out the window as we headed to Tours where we would change to a different train. I immediately realized how much more you see from a train than when traveling by car. Miles and miles of gorgeous farmland and tiny villages.
Traveling in France by Rail
But before reaching Tours we encountered our first problem about traveling in France by rail. Let me explain:
We had purchased a France-only Eurail pass via the Eurail app. The pass we selected (about $200 per person) was good for four days of train travel – with the understanding that, for the high-speed trains we planned to travel on, a separate purchase of a reserved seat was required. After purchasing the reserved seats through the SNCF app, we got a ticket showing the reserved seat. The mistake was in thinking that this was our complete ticket – it’s not! It only shows that we had paid for the seat reservation – an additional step of validating the Eurail pass (via the Eurail app, NOT the SNCF app) for travel on that date and train is necessary. So when the ticket inspector approached, we showed him our seat reservation tickets, but he also wanted to see the validated Eurail pass – we had the pass but not the validation – he was not happy – in fact he was very rude. He let us go, without really explaining what we had done wrong, or if we needed to do something more. We were left confused.
Lyon
Arriving in Lyon for two nights, we made the right decision to stay at a hotel (Campanile Lyon Centre) next to the Part-Dieu train station. Lyon has two train stations (Perrache and Part Dieu) so make sure you book near the correct one. The train station is also the metro station, so we did not need to drag our bags into the old city. We love a good Metro, and Lyon’s was great.
Lyon’s Notre Dame
Beautiful
We had two days to explore Lyon, which really wasn’t enough time but we hit the ground running. The weather was excellent.
Lyon Old town
So many restaurants to chose from
We spent most of our time in Vieux Lyon (Old Town), and we used GPS My City to follow two different walking tours on our own. Over the two days we walked ALOT.
Day One
The city sits at the confluence of two rivers (the Rhone and the Saone), thus many bridges, and there is also an upper city. On day one we started with the upper city. We took the funicular (included in your Metro ticket) up to the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral with outstanding views over the city below. We wandered down through the botanical gardens and then around to the Theatre Gallo Romaine. The Ancient Theatre of Fourvière is a Roman theatre in Lyon. It was built on the hill of Fourvière, which is located in the center of the Roman city. The theatre is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site protecting the historic center of Lyon.
Beautiful Lyon
We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring shops and food in the old town. We tasted the famous Lyon bright red pralines and dipped into one of the famous chocolate shops and enjoyed delicious treats.
Mid-day Pastry Break
Day Two
We love using GPS My City and we combined several options to spend the entire day exploring Lyon. We started with one of the most beautiful food markets I have ever seen, Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. You could spend the entire day here.
Les Halles de Lyon
Lyon is famous for this red prallines
Moving on to Place Bellacour, visiting the Little Prince statue and then Place de Cistines, Lyon’s stunning 200 year old theatre.
Place Bellacour is Europes largest public square
Little Prince statue
So Much to See
We did a lot of climbing on this day visiting Lyon Cathedral, Place de Jacobins, Place de Terreaux. La Tour Rose and the Montee des Chazeaux steps. Eventually we crossed the river on the beautiful Passarelle Saint-Vincent pedestrian bridge and using GPS My City we found the Fresque de Lyonaise, a mural depicting historic figures of Lyon. We enjoyed a lovely stroll along the river on a beautiful day.
Beautiful views along the river
It’s a scavenger hunt to find La Tour Rose, but worth it.
Montee des Chazeaux steps
Fresque de Lyonnaise
There is much more to Lyon, and we will need to return for another visit. After a quick refresh at the hotel, we headed back to Rue Saint-Jean, the main old town shopping street for dinner at the famous Chez Grand-Mere. An underground restaurant where I enjoyed a Lyonnaise dish called quennelles. It was delicious.
Chez Grand-Mere
Fish Quennelles. So good.
The city has many gathering places of beauty and heritage
Dijon
Next morning we had an easier departure time of 11:00am. We said our farewells to Lyon and boarded our next train.
Lyon to Dijon Four Hours
Alas we encountered another problem when the ticket steward came along. This time we had a woman who was sympathetic to us being novices, and she took a great deal of time to explain to us in detail what we had done wrong…something the first rude guy did not do. She was very helpful even though we had to pay 50 Euro due to our mistake….not having completed adding the specific date and train to our Eurail pass via the Eurail app. But we felt confident we finally had it right. She told us this is a common mistake…and the added costs can be much more than she charged us. So be aware!
Beautiful Dijon
Bonjour Dijon
Arriving in Dijon we were met by our American friends who live half time in Dijon, and the other half in the USA. It was a great treat to have them as our escort on our first day. It was about a 15 minute easy walk from the train station to old town. After checking in to the hotel (B&B Hotel Dijon Centre) located in a great location of the old town, we headed out to explore.
Our personal guides!
With only two days in this great city, it was nice to have “locals” to give us the scoop on the best things to see and do. We walked throughout the old town, as they shared with us their favorites and suggested things for us to do on our own on day two. We ended our day with our friends at a little hole-in-the-wall place they love called La Cave Se Rebiffe. Essentially a wine bar with a huge wine menu and a tiny food menu. We ate charcuterie, terrine, pasta and blood sausage with lots of great local wine from the Burgundy region.
La Cave Se Rebiffe Chacuterie
Learning about Burgundy region wines
Day Two
Day two we hit the ground running on our own. We headed first to Liberation Square for photos of the famous Ducal Palace. The Palace of the Dukes and Estates of Burgundy or Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne is a remarkably well-preserved architectural assemblage built in the 15th century. Today it houses the City Hall and the Beaux Arts Museum. We headed to the tourist office to obtain a 12 euro ticket to climb the Phillip the Good Tower later in the afternoon with a guide. That tower climb really was one of my favorite things in the city.
Lyon’s lucky owl
Musee de Beaux Arts
Climbing Phillip the Good Tower
What a view!
History, Food, Wine, Oh My
Next we went cathedral hopping – Dijon is a small village with an astonishing number of cathedrals. The Notre Dame Cathedral and its famous (somewhat hidden) owl sculpture, has become a symbol of this city.
We loved the Rue des Forges and the beautiful half timbered houses, many currently being lovingly restored and preserved. We made our way to the world famous Edmond Fallot Mustard shop. Fallot is the only remaining family-owned and -operated mustard factory in the Dijon region. I have been buying this brand of mustard every time I’m in France for the past twenty years. So delicious. I stocked up for gifts and for myself.
Half Timbered Houses
Dijon is a village of cathedrals
Palais des ducs et des États de Bourgogne
Since many businesses and restaurants are closed on Monday in France, we asked our local friends for a dinner suggestion. They said Parapluie (translation: umbrella). We made a reservation not knowing anything about this restaurant, and ended up being absolutely charmed by the chef’s choice menu, incredible wine selection, outstanding service and the unexpectedly reasonable price. I highly recommend.
Parapluie
Parapluie
We woke up early on our departure day and walked over the the Halles de Dijon. It had been closed on Monday so we wanted to see it briefly Tuesday morning before we left. One of the best food halles in France. Such a variety of local delicacies for sale. Next time I will spend an entire day there.
Les Halles de Dijon
The freshest
I could easily have spent another three or four days in this lovely, walkable, delicious medieval city. I hope to be back.
Luxembourg
Traveling in France by Rail
Our train to Luxembourg left about a half an hour late, which apparently is unusual when traveling in France by rail. But we eventually got on our way and luckily this time, no issues with our ticket! However, please note if you are traveling on the France-only Eurail pass, you need a separate ticket for the last leg from the final stop in France into Luxembourg. We did not change trains, but we did need two separate tickets (nobody checked, but we did not want to risk it!).
Hubs is tired of dragging the bags…
Dijon to Luxembourg 3 hours
The tiny country of Luxembourg gave us our 148th country, and what a lovely place it was. The only constitutional duchy in the world, it is often referred to as the Grand Duchy. A constitutional duchy is a territory ruled by a duke or duchess, but where the ruler’s powers are limited by a constitution. The duchy itself is the territory or domain, while the ruler’s title is the dukedom.
Palace of the Duchy
Luxembourg City is much larger than Dijon and we took a cab from the train station to our hotel (Hotel Vauban). I loved the location of our hotel right on Place Guillaume II, and perfectly situated in the old center. We were happy to be here for two nights.
Luxembourg City
Get Your Walking Shoes
Luxembourg City and the lower village of Gund are all quite walkable. But if you don’t want to go up and down the hills, take advantage of the FREE public transportation (tram and bus). We however enjoyed walking everywhere as we usually do.
Inside the Bock Casemates
That is one deep well
There is a lot to enjoy in Luxembourg so we dropped our bags at the hotel and headed out to explore. We took our time leisurely walking through the beautiful medieval old town, before arriving at the Bock Casemates – a must-see when in Luxembourg. The Bock Casemates, a subterranean defense system made up of kilometers of tunnels, is today one of the most important visitor sites in Luxembourg. These underground galleries were initially carved in the 17th century, under Spanish rule, and subsequently twice extended.
Like a Fairy Tale
Next we did a lovely walk down in the lower village known as Gund, stopping for a cold drink at the Good Weather Bar, only open in good weather! From the outdoor bar and on our walk we enjoyed picturesque views along the Alzette River. It truly looks like something out of a fairy tale. We made our way to the city’s oldest brewery, now a restaurant, called Big Beer and had a giant and delicious early dinner. Luxembourg has it’s own cuisine that leans a bit more German than French but also all it’s own. The pork knuckle was as big as my head. We continued our Gund walk to the Panoramic Elevator of the Pfaffenthal. A free elevator that takes people back up to the upper city with great views too.
Good Weather Bar
Panoramic Elevator of the Pfaffenthal
We were lucky with such great weather
Giant Pork Knuckle at Big Beer
Day Two
We woke up and looked out the window of our room to find a weekly market set up on the square in front of the hotel. So we started our day walking through and admiring all the fresh items for sale. Next we walked over the Pont Adolphe bridge and back over the La Passerelle bridge, in an effort see all angles of the beautiful city, before meeting our free walking tour.
A variety of old and modern bridges keep Luxembourg moving
Free Walkingt Tour
We do free (tip based) walking tours in many cities, and this two-plus hour tour was really exceptional. We visited the palace, the old fish market, Saint Michael’s Cathedral, Notre Dame Cathedral, the Monument of Remembrance and walked along the stunning ancient Chemin de la Corniche. You could easily visit all these on your own, but having a local guide to explain the history, give restaurant tips and insider information is always worth it.
Notre Dame Luxembourg
The Monument of Remembrance
After the tour we were starving so we headed to one of the city’s best restaurants for local cuisine, Brasserie du Cercle. I wanted to try the local dumpling dish called Kniddelen and Arne had a potato pancake with pork called Gromperekichelcher. Both were great. It was a hot day and the local Luxembourg beer was a perfect match.
Kniddelen
Gromperekichelcher.
After an afternoon of shopping for gifts and treats we had a rest at the hotel before dinner at Um Dierfgen. We were still full from lunch but we enjoyed a light dinner including the local seasonal specialty of white asparagus.
Luxembourg’s famous Chocolate House Nathanal Bonn
White Asparagus in season
It was a whirlwind tour of this beautiful place and I am so glad we made the time to visit Luxembourg City. But now it’s time to head to Paris.
Charming Luxembourg City
Paris
Of course we have visited Paris before (a few times) but we always look forward to seeing this beautiful city of lights. So back on board we go!
Bonjour Paris! Ravi de vous voir!
Luxembourg City to Paris Three Hours
Arriving in Paris at Gare de Est we decided to take an Uber rather than wrangle our bags on the Metro. But we used the Paris Metro the rest of our time and it is such a great metro system.
Since we have been to Paris many times, we decided to not do all the major attractions, except we really wanted to see the newly reopened Notre Dame.
The beautiful Marais neighborhood
Parisians enjoying a sunny May Day bank holiday
Our hotel, (the Hotel Le Compostelle), was in the Marais neighborhood, and we spent our first afternoon wandering and enjoying the sites and sounds and smells of the Marais. We were there on a holiday (May Day) and all the Parisians were out enjoying the fine spring weather. We then met our good friends who live in Paris at a restaurant called Acme and it was incredible! One of the best meals we have ever had in Paris. Multi course, chef’s choice dinner with an amazing wine pairing. We ate, sipped and talked well into the night, sitting outside on a warm night. Parfaite!
Innovative haute cuisine at Acme
Good food and friends
Day Two
Next morning we were up early (thank you coffee) because we had a reserved time to enter Notre Dame. I highly recommend getting a reserved time if you will be in Paris during the busy season. You can go on the Notre Dame website at 12:01 am two days before you want to visit and reserve a time. You can also wait in line, but the line can sometimes be hours long, so we recommend reserving a time. I loved seeing the new Notre Dame, it has been so lovingly restored and it is stunning. Don’t miss it.
French Coffee. Nothing better.
Notre Dame
Newly restored and beautiful Notre Dame
We spent the rest of this day wandering and enjoying our favorite sites including Jardin de Luxembourg, and views of Tour Eiffel. I wanted to visit two iconic Paris shops for souvenirs – Marin Montagut and La Grand Epicerie de Paris. We also visited Rue Montorgueil, a new-to-us area of Paris with so many restaurants. Here we had a perfect Nicoise Salad and wine for lunch at Les Artizans. Back to the hotel for a rest and then out to an amazing dinner at Grand Coeur. Wow the beef tenderloin for two was incredible. Highly recommend.
Jardin de Luxembourg
La Grand Epicerie de Paris
Rue Montorgueil,
Lunch at Les Artizans
Grand Coeur Beef Tenderloin. Wow.
Day Three
The forecast said possible late afternoon thunderstorms but the day dawned bright and blue. We took the train outside of the city to the stunning and new-to-us Parc de Sceaux – a hidden gem just outside of Paris. Here we met a group of women from a Facebook walking group I am in, and spent the next two hours talking to them (most expats from United Kingdom) and exploring this stunning park. Such a joy.
Parc de Sceaux.
Parc de Sceaux.
Back into the city to meet our friend again to explore the Carnavalet Museum, one Paris museum we had never visited. I heard great things about this museum, and we only had two hours which was not enough. We really enjoyed the historic presentation and will check it out again on our next visit.
Carnavalet Museum
Carnavalet Museum
Expect the Unexpected
Just as we were getting ready to leave the museum, we witnessed one of the most astonishing weather events of my life. In a matter of minutes the weather changed from blue sky and sun to black clouds, fierce wind and golf ball size hail. It hailed so hard and so much the hail piled up on the street like snow. Luckily we were not caught outside because people were injured and many cars and outdoor venues were damaged. Trees were down. It was wild and crazy.
Hail as big as golf balls. OMG.
Not only was it our final night in Paris, but it was our final night of this four month, seven country journey. We were tired and ready to head home. But we enjoyed one last Paris meal at Au Bourguignon du Marais This famous restaurant is a bit touristy, but it was close to our hotel and we had a good meal and also enjoyed visiting the two oldest houses in Paris just down the street. The medieval half timbered houses on the Rue Francois Miron are the only ones remaining in Paris, built in the 15th century.
Au Bourguignon du Marais
Rue Francois Miron timbered houses still in use
Traveling in France by Rail
Five cities in nine days using the France Rail SNCF… was a fun experience. Easy and efficient the train also provides a relaxing trip, with WIFi and the most amazing views. I would definitely do it again, but with smaller suitcases. You should consider traveling in France by Rail.
Traveling in France by Rail
We had a very early Uber ride to Charles de Gaulle for our flight back to the USA and our summer home in Washington State. Merci France. We loved our five plus weeks enjoying your culture, food, wine and history. Au Revoir. Abientot!
Parc de Sceaux.
Thank you for reading my post All Aboard! A’bord de dans! Traveling in France by Rail. Be sure to see our post My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux and last week’s post What’s Next for My Fab Fifites Life. Over the next few weeks I will continue to have Wednesday book reviews, but will take a wee break from writing travel content. I promise to return soon.
We love it when you pin, share, comment and engage with our blog posts. Merci!
Bordeaux. It’s the wine and a whole lot more. During our month-long visit to Bordeaux we rented a car for one week, giving us easy access to some of the beautiful villages outside the city. Even if you visit Bordeaux for only a few days, try to get outside the city. Here are my suggestions for My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France.
Chateau Monbazillac outside of Bergerac
Take a Tour
You do not need a car to get outside of the city. There are many tour options, and the train also goes to many locations. If you are short on time, I recommend a day trip with Olala Tours. We joined a tour with Olala early in our visit to Bordeaux that took us to Saint Emilion and to the Margaux Medoc region. This was a great introduction to the nuances of Bordeaux regional wines. We loved the tiny medieval village of Saint Emilion so we chose to go back there later with the car.
In Margaux Medoc region on our Olala tour
Wine tasting in the Margaux Medoc region
My Favorite Day Trips from Bordeaux France
We had the car for a week and we made five trips outside of the city during that time. We had beautiful weather on four of those days. Here are my recommendations;
Saint Emilion
Drive – It is about an hour drive to Saint Emilion, longer depending on traffic. We did not have any problem finding parking at 10am, but the lot was full after lunch.
Train – the train takes less time, but drops you about a mile from town. A walk or bike ride on to Saint Emilion is required.
Bordeaux to Saint Emilion
Saint Emilion
Saint Emilion
What to do – Saint Emilion is one of the most famous wine regions in the world, with more than 800 wineries in the small appellation -you can’t possibly visit them all. Bordeaux’s famous red wines are made from a blend of grape varieties, with Merlot being the dominant variety, and also including Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines are known for their rich, full-bodied and complex character, with good aging potential.
Beautiful history and art
Be sure to book AHEAD for the guided tour of the Monolithic underground church
Start your visit walking around the beautiful village for amazing views and shopping and coffee or lunch. Book in advance to take a tour of the amazing Monolithic church, only accessible by tour. No photos inside, but take my word for it – it is definitely worth it. If you don’t have a car, enjoy a tasting at one of the many wine shops in the village.
With a car you must wander out into the miles and miles of vineyards and experience wine tasting with the wine masters of the Saint Emilion appellation. We visited three wineries and I recommend each one for a completely different experience; Chateau Chauvin (we visited with a tour), and on our own Haut Rocher and Chateau Saint Georges. Booking ahead is recommended.
Haut Rocher in the same family for 800 years
Saint Georges beautiful Chateau and gardens and massive storage facility
Lunch in the vineyard at Chateau Chavin with Olala Tours
There are many tours available from Bordeaux to Saint Emilion. This is an absolute not to miss day trip from Bordeaux on your own or with a tour.
Saint Emilion’s oldest timbered house and original stone gate
Arcachon and Dune du Pilat
Drive – Arcachon is less than an hour by car west to the Atlantic ocean. Plenty of parking available.
Train – The train from Bordeaux will drop you in the center of Arcachon, but to visit Dune du Pilat you need a car or tour.
Bordeaux to Arcachon
What to do – We started our visit at the Les Halle des Arcachon to indulge in Arcachon’s world famous oysters. Oysters and seafood are two of the main attractions to the region. If you love them as we do you must visit. We also did a self guided walk along the beach promenade, and hiked up the hill to admire the 19th century mansions and the view back down to the town. If you are interested there are boat tours out to the small outer islands. We did not do this.
The Dune du Pilat is an amazing not to be missed sand dune about 40 minutes to the south of Arcachon. I was blown away by the size of this natural phenomenon that juts up from the sea, Europe’s tallest dune. Learn more about it here. It’s a fun hike, accessible by stairs if you don’t want to crawl up, and the view is worth it. I highly recommend visiting Dune du Pilat if you can. So fascinating.
Some people take off their shoes and walk up
I took the stairs. Slowly.
The view from the top. Amazing.
Bergerac
Drive – a bit further afield is the beautiful medieval village of Bergerac. It took us an hour and half to arrive in Bergerac. We easily found paid parking
Train – the train takes about the same time as driving and it is an easy 1km walk from the station into the historic center.
Bordeaux to Bergerac
What to do – Bergerac is in the Perigord region, outside of the Bordeaux region. We visited on a Monday, when many things are closed, but we found some shops and restaurants open for visitors. We did a self guided tour of the village, famous for the ancient timbered buildings, many currently being carefully restored and protected. I really enjoyed the beautiful river walk, and views across the Dordogne river. We sat outside at a tiny cafe (such a French thing to do) and had great food, wine and service.
Visit Bergerac for the ancient timbered buildings most still in use today
Feels like the French town in Beauty and the Beast
Delicious lunch on a sunny afternoon
Perfect day for a walk on the river
After lunch we drove about twenty minutes outside town to Chateau Monbazillac An ancient Chateau built in the 16th century with fascinating story you can learn on a self-guided immersive tour. The tour includes a glass of wine (this area is known for sweet whites) in their tasting room. It’s worth it for the views and gardens too. So peaceful.
Chateau Monbazillac
Chateau Monbazillac
Although it is farther, I recommend visiting Bergerac. The history was incredible. You could combine Bergerac and Saint Emilion but it would be a very long day.
Cape Ferret
Drive – headed west again Cape Ferret is a beautiful oyster producing region about an hour and twenty minutes drive from Bordeaux.
Train – really not an option
Bordeaux to Cap Ferret
What to do – we were blessed with excellent weather (actually hot) and our Cape Ferret goal was to hike. We started at the end of the road (La Pointe du Cap Ferret) where there was a small parking lot and restroom. We did a loop walk along the ocean hiking through both wooded area and ocean beach for a total of five miles. The Cap Ferret lighthouse (‘phare’ in French) is a beacon in the distance, but was not really our destination although it is open for visitors. We sat on the beach just east of the lighthouse, ate the picnic we had brought from home, and watched many brave souls enjoy a brisk ocean swim. There are many small oyster restaurants as well as places to buy fresh oysters to take home. From this side of the bay you can look back across to Dune du Pilat (see above).
Sandy Beach at Cap Ferret
Oysters are big business at Cap Ferret
We were blessed with a beautiful day
Crossing the estuary at low tide
It would be possible to combine Cap Ferret with Arcachon if you had a car and were open to a very full day.
La Reole
Drive – We drove in a rain storm about an hour and twenty minutes. Part of the drive is on highway and part is through pretty little ancient villages and vineyards
Train – the train is faster, about 45 minutes, but drops you a few hundred meters outside of the village
Bordeaux to La Reole
What to do – unfortunately the day we went to La Reole we got caught in a total monsoon. Our goal was to visit the Saturday morning market (8am-1pm), touted as one of the best markets in all of France. We did visit, but in a deluge. There is a big parking lot just west of the market, which is located along the Dordogne river. We made our purchases from a butcher, poulet producer, and fruits and vegetables vendor. Across from the market there is a public elevator that takes you up to the medieval village. We managed to only see a little bit of this ancient town though, as it really was not possible in the storm. What we did see was beautiful though and you should give it a try.
Lots of shoppers despite the wet weather
Looking from the upper town down to the market and river
Cathedral in La Reole
All roads lead to Santiago
You could combine Le Reole with a Saint Emilion day or a visit to Cadillac.
And There is More
We did visit Margaux Medoc with the tour we took, but I wished we could have had another day exploring the wine region of Medoc because it is more than just Margaux. I also had hoped to visit Blaye and Cadillac…those will need to wait for our next visit.
Beautiful gardens at Chateau Saint Georges
There are many destinations within easy access from Bordeaux if you wanted to do an overnight trip. We did not, but I would definitely consider this on our next long visit to the region. Toulouse is about two and half hours by car. Cognac is about two hours by car. Spain’s Basque region is less than three hours by car. Everything about this region is historic, delicious and beautiful. I want to live here.
Baby grapes on the vine in April
Southwest France
Southwest France and the Bordeaux region are not as well known as some of France’s other destinations, and that of course makes it more desirable for me. Less expensive, less crowded but still interesting, delicious and fun. I learned more about wine during our visit to Bordeaux than I had in all my life. Everyday was fascinating. It’s time to consider the Nouvelle Acquitane region of France for your next travel adventure. J’ai adoré. A bientôt Bordeaux. Merci!
Vineyard at Chateau Monbazillac
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Bonjour Bordeaux! Spending an entire month in the underrated French city of Bordeaux has been such a lovely luxury. We have enjoyed beautiful spring weather, surprisingly low prices, kind and generous people and of course incredible food. Let me tell you all about Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.
Bonjour Bordeaux
Bon Appitit
I have visited France numerous times, but this was my first visit to Bordeaux. It was recommended to us by Parisian friends as a great location for a long stay. And indeed it has been. Still flying under the radar, this ancient city on the Garonne River is undergoing a renaissance. Over the past twenty years Bordeaux has gone from dilapidated to divine. Cleaned up, yet still a bit gritty – Bordeaux is un-apologetically authentic. And the food is well…magnifique. Let’s talk about it.
Duck pate, with cornichons
Pain (Bread)
Eat the pain. Eat all the bread. Bread from a boulangerie in France is delicious and due to no preservatives, better for you. Unlike grocery store bread in the USA, bread in France needs to be purchased and consumed daily for freshness. It’s amazing how much better it is. Bread in France, like many local foods, is highly regulated by the government to ensure quality. To be called a “boulangerie”, a bakery must make its own bread fresh on-site, no pre-made dough allowed. A baguette must weigh 250-300 g, be 55-65 cm long, and any bread labeled “tradition française” must be produced following a very specific recipe. And as someone with a sensitive tummy, I notice no issues when eating in France.
A patisserie is a French bakery that sells pastries. In France and Belgium patisserie is also regulated and using the word is restricted to bakeries who employ licensed maître pâtissier (master pastry chefs).
Pistachio Croissant. Oui!
So delicious, every bite. This is the tiny local boulangerite where we bought our bread.
Viande & Voaille (Meat & Poultry)
Beef, lamb, pork, duck! We ate it all and more. French cuisine features meat and poultry often, and we specifically visited several restaurants to enjoy these classics. I had steak tartare at a little hole in the wall called Petit Mignon (Arne had a giant hamburger) and we ate lamb, duck and fois gras at La Tupina. We also had grilled pork and steak frites for lunch at Brasserie de Chartrons. Bordeaux takes these classics seriously while also focusing on local specialties. All served with the most incredible Bordeaux wine.
It’s not for everyone but I love steak tartare
You can’t go wrong with steak frites
Grilled duck with fois gras at La Tupina. One of the best meals I have ever had.
Fall off the bone tender pork at Brasserie de Chartrons
Fruit de Mer (Seafood)
Though on a river, the city of Bordeaux is only 100km from the Atlantic ocean. This proximity makes seafood abundant, fresh and delicious. We love shellfish and had local oysters on several occasions as well as delicious moules (muscles). In addition we enjoyed squid, sea bass, tuna and octopus.
Moules et frites
So fresh oysters at Marche Capuchin
Tuna tartare
Fried shrimp and octopus at Les Halles des Bacalan
Canele (Bordeaux’s Favorite)
The name canelé comes from the French word for “fluted.” According to cookbooks, the canele Bordelaise could date back to anywhere between the 15th and 18th centuries, and most of the history books concur that the pastry originated in various convents around the winemaking regions of Bordeaux in Southern France.
On arrival in Bordeaux we immediately noticed shops selling these sweet little bites. There are a couple of chain stores that sell them, but luckily and unknowingly we popped into a small proprietor, considered Bordeaux’s best – Cassanade. Very delicious crunchy exterior with a creamy rum and vanilla baked center. Hard to describe but definitely easy to eat.
Bordeaux’s famous treat – Canele
Nourriture Ethnique (Ethnic Choices)
Bordeaux is home to wide range of immigrants who have brought their cuisines to this international city. Lebanese, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, Italian and even Mexican which I find is rare in Europe. One we tried and loved was a delicious Peruvian restaurant called Blind. Blind had a prix-fixe dinner menu (very common) with Peruvian classics like ceviche presented with a French twist. Very good.
We also visited an amazing Cambodian restaurant just a few minutes walk from our apartment called Kampot. Lovely little spots like these are authentic and delicious. The proprietor was our host, waiter and cook! So very kind and the food was delicious!
Ceviche at Blind. So fresh.
Amazing coconut lemongrass soup at Kampot
If You Only Have a Few Days
I get it, most people don’t come to Bordeaux for an entire month. So I have a couple of recommendations if you only have a few days. Definitely plan ahead and make some bookings. Remember that the majority of restaurants are open from about noon to 2:30pm then close and don’t reopen until 7:00 or 7:30. Many restaurants (and shops too) are closed on Monday. There are some touristic places near the main squares that you might find open all day. But it is our recommendation to try to eat where the locals eat. And that means eating during the hours the locals eat. This is how we indulged in Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City.
Fresh in season white asparagus is very popular in the spring. Tender and delicious
Bordeaux Bites
Definitely find time to do a food and wine walking tour with Bordeaux Bites. If you can start your visit with this tour, you will come away with a great understanding of what makes the food scene of Bordeaux tick. I highly recommend it. Our guide Alex was amazing and he emailed me after the tour many restaurant suggestions. Merci Alex!
We learned so much about the nuances of French fromage
We tasted many meats and pates on our tour
The Gastronome Bordeaux
We loved our cooking/baking class with Chef Daniel and Erica at The Gastronome Bordeaux. This is where we learned the history and nuances of Bordeaux’s iconic sweet treat canele. I can highly recommend this class, but you might also consider their full cooking class with market tour or their duck class. Delicieuse!
We loved meeting Chef Daniel and Erica
Look what I made! So yummy. I need to try this at home.
Les Halles des Bacalan
This wonderful food hall, Les Halles des Bacalan, is such a delight…we ate there twice. Especially if you only have a few days in Bordeaux, this collection of gourmet delights under one roof is perfect. Popular with locals and visitors, you can walk around and choose what looks good and sample many different foods of the region. We had seafood, wine, charcuterie, and more. I highly recommend.
Squid and sardines with frits
Gravlax with beet sauce.
Wine Tasting
Of course I have to at least mention wine…we are in Bordeaux after all – where they produce over 700 million bottles of wine a year. Everywhere you go to eat there will be a wide variety of local wine offerings at amazing prices (compared to USA prices). Do not worry if you know little or nothing about wine. Ask just few questions, or ask the waiter to make a recommendation. Everyone we met was kind and helpful and very willing to introduce the local wines to novices. It’s surprisingly unpretentious.
Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City, included lots and lots of wine. Not just at every meal, but also at wine bars. A wine bar or a wine shop (most also serve as wine bars) is an exceptional way to be guided through the delicious local wines. We particularly liked Le Bar a Vin.
I’ll have more about wine in Bordeaux in our next two blog posts coming soon.
Le Bar a Vin
Marche des Capucins
Everyday somewhere in the city there seems to be markets; book market, vintage market, flea markets. And on Thursday and Sunday along the Garonne river there is a beautiful fresh produce and fish market. But Bordeaux’s main market is open every day – the Marche des Capucins. We enjoyed it for produce, cheese, meat and oysters. Even if you aren’t cooking yourself, you still should visit (in the morning is best) to see the colorful market at work. It’s also a great place to have fresh oysters and sandwiches.
Colorful fruit at Marche des Capucins
Fresh and local
Amazing assortment of pates, saucisson (sausage), and prepared foods
Bountiful Bordeaux, Eating My Way Through the City
There is much more than food in this beautiful city. So I hope you will come back next week to read about my recommendations to Discover Bordeaux. I also hope you will get Bordeaux on your travel list, sooner rather than later. Come in the spring. Come in the fall. Even come in the winter. But please don’t come in the summer. You will love the city more completely without the crowds, tour buses and cruise ships.
I can’t get enough French coffee, here we shared a chocolate covered crepe and watched the world go by.
I definitely will be back – maybe even for more than a month. Merci Bordeaux. J’adore Bordeaux!
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Bordeaux.
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