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Tbilisi, Georgia

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

November 15, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Tbilisi Georgia

Welcome to the second of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Tbilisi Georgia.

The country of Georgia just blew my mind for it’s history, beauty, people, wine and food! I really enjoyed my week in Tbilisi. But there is political unrest too. So for today’s blog post let me start with the recent elections; Tbilisi Georgia, The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

Looking down on the city of Tbilisi after a gondola ride up the mountain. Peace bridge on the left and Performing Arts Center in the middle.

The Bad

On October 26th, a month after our visit, elections were held and the ruling party – referred to as the Dream Party – was re-elected to Parliament. Georgia has a Prime Minister/Parliamentary strong system. Immediately protests began and countries around the world questioned the legitimacy of the election. A partial recount was done and again the Dream Party was announced as the winner. Georgians took to the street in protest of what they believe was a manipulated vote with Russian interference. It’s too early to tell how this might unfold and affect tourism in this beautiful nation. For more details it is explained in the NPR Report. This entire process sounds eerily familiar to me as an American.

I will add that during our visit we had a wonderful guide on a food tour who was unusually vocal about the upcoming election. She feared that the Dream Party would do whatever it takes to win the election and keep the country pro-Russian. She and most Georgians supported moving the country forward with more Western leaning tendencies towards Europe. Georgia is waiting to be confirmed as a member of the European Union. This election result would likely remove them as a candidate.

On My Own

If you read last week’s post about our car accident while we were visiting Yerevan Armenian, you know that my husband suffered a concussion. Arne was having some pretty serious symptoms; fatigue, dizziness, trouble swallowing and numbness on his right side. We agreed that he needed a quiet week. So, luckily our Airbnb in Tbilisi was peaceful and comfortable and he spent nearly the entire week resting. Meanwhile I gallivanted around Tbilisi on my own. Tbilisi was easy for me to maneuver and the weather was great and I got to see the sites. Poor Arne.

The Good

Hopefully starting off with “the bad” didn’t turn you off too much, because my experience during the week in Tbilisi was really great. On my own I did three tours, and at the end of the week Arne joined me for one more. This is a remarkably beautiful, historic, inexpensive and DELICIOUS country. I loved it. So let’s talk about it.

Kebabs and other meat is very popular in Tbilisi

A Little History

Georgia is a country situated at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It boasts rich history that dates back to ancient times. The region has been inhabited since the Paleolithic era, and it became a significant cultural and political center in the early medieval period. The Kingdom of Georgia emerged in the 11th century. Reaching its zenith under King David IV and Queen Tamar known for its advancements in art, architecture, and literature. However, the kingdom faced invasions from the Mongols and later the Ottomans and Persians. This lead to a decline in its power and fragmentation into smaller principalities.

Stalin, who was born in Georgia, was married in this church

In the 19th century, Georgia was annexed by the Russian Empire, which brought significant changes to its political landscape. Following the collapse of the Russian Empire in 1917, Georgia declared independence, but this was short-lived as it was invaded by the Red Army in 1921. Georgia was incorporated into the Soviet Union. Georgia regained its independence in 1991 after the dissolution of the USSR. The post-Soviet period was marked by political instability and conflicts, including the wars in Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Today, Georgia is a sovereign nation striving for democratic development, economic growth, and closer ties with Europe and NATO, while preserving its unique cultural heritage.

Where Am I

We drove across the border from Armenia to Tbilisi with a hired car and driver. This is an easy way to cross the border with some sightseeing opportunities. We had to visit the countries of the Caucasus in this order. We could not go from Armenia to Azerbaijan because of closed borders between those two countries. Armenia and Georgia currently have good diplomatic relations.

Tbilisi Walking Tours

I did a walking tour and a food walking tour on my own during the week. I booked both these group tours with Viator and both were exceptional. The city of Tbilisi has some beautiful architecture, both old and new. The country of Georgia is an officially secular nation. Religion in Georgia reached a major turning point in 326 AD. The nation is largely recognized as the second country in the world (after Armenia) to have adopted Christianity. Today 85% of Georgians are Christian and 11% practice the Muslim faith. Once numbering as many as 100,000, today the Georgian Jewish population comprises only a few thousand people. Most of the Jewish population emigrated to Israel, United States and Belgium.

Typical Georgian Architecture in the old city

The historic Kashveti Church survived the Soviet era

So Delicious

Some of the best food I’ve ever eaten was right here in Tbilisi. I know right? Considering how many places I have traveled that is saying a lot. Every restaurant we ate in was amazing. Prices are incredible low (dinner for two with drinks less than $20 USD). Restaurant staff was always so welcoming. The food tour I took was so interesting. We were treated with some hidden gems including an underground bakery, a tiny secret tea room, and wine tasting.

Tea is the favored drink in Georgia as well as a social event

My favorite foods included amazing hummus; a local specialty called Khingali – a delicious dumpling; and best of all Khachapuri – the national dish of Georgia is a delicious filled pastry that Georgians eat everyday.

Kingali Dumplings – similar to soup dumplings

Both egglant and pomegranite are popular

Kachapuri – stuffed bread – has many versions. This one with goat cheese and egg was my favorite. I need to try and make this!

Check out the YouTube video below to see my Tasty Tuesday all about Georgia Cuisine

Surprising Georgian Wine

I had no idea that Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world. The fertile valleys and protective slopes of the South Caucasus were home to grapevine cultivation and neolithic wine production for at least 8000 years. Georgians are very proud of this fact and of their local wines. On each of the three tours I did on my own, we tasted wine – that’s how important it is to this region. I really enjoyed all the wine I tasted and plan to look for Georgian wines back in the USA. Who knew?

Enjoying wine tasting on the walking tour

Wine is abundant and incredibly inexpensive

The Beautiful

Tbilisi was indeed beautiful, but the surrounding region was breathtaking. I did one day trip out of the city by myself to the UNESCO World Heritage monastery of Mtskheta and the city of Gori. This destination is less than an hour outside of Tbilisi. There were only two people on this tour and our guide/driver was really great.

Christianity

Mtskheta is one of the oldest cities in Georgia as well as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is located at the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers. Currently a small provincial capital. For nearly a millennium Mtskheta was a large fortified city. It also served as a significant economic and political center of the Kingdom of Iberia.

It is the birthplace and one of the most vibrant centers of Christianity in Georgia. Mtskheta was declared the “Holy City” by the Georgian Orthodox Church in 2014. (Wikipedia)

View of the Kura River from the hilltop ancient monastery

Stunning Mountains

By the end of our week Arne was feeling up to doing an all-day private tour to Kazbegi & Gudauri. I am so glad he felt better. It would have been tragic to miss this region near the Georgian border with Russia. Truly astonishingly beautiful. It was a very long drive though, mostly due to difficult two lane roads. There is some major infrastructure work going on. Extensive improvements will help make this trip easier in the near future.

Gergeti Trinity Church – spectacular fall day and iconic view

We were blessed with outstanding weather on our late September visit. Incredibly only a week later the area was blanketed with snow. The mountain region is a well known ski area popular with both Russians and Georgians. Additionally this beautiful backdrop shows off one of Georgia’s most stunning churches, Gergeti Trinity Church. We were able to do a couple short hikes to visit a waterfall and breath the delicious mountain air.

Final Thoughts

I can’t end this post without mentioning the historic thermal baths in Tbilisi. These are a must-do when visiting this area. The history of Tbilisi’s sulfur baths dates back to the city’s founding in the 5th century. This is when King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered the natural hot springs while hunting. The city’s name, Tbilisi, is derived from the Georgian word “tbili,” meaning warm, a clear nod to these thermal waters. Visitors have several options for visiting the thermal baths, both public or private bathing. We did a private hour long bath visit on our final day and it was really fun and relaxing.

A Wonderful Surprise

Tbilisi was a wonderful surprise, and a place I would definitely come back to if given the chance. The food and wine were delicious and inexpensive. Tours and driver hire were also inexpensive. Gas is running about $3.00 USD per gallon. The average wage in Georgia is $925 per month with a wide disparity between city and rural areas. The fall scenery and weather we enjoyed was wonderful and the people we met were welcoming and interesting.

This mural celebrating female political heroes

That is not me…but the mountains are a great place to paraglide

Georgia has issues they need to work on. I remain hopeful for this country to move forward in a positive way. We wish them all the best and thank everyone who made our visit so wonderful. I will be watching their progress in the months ahead.

Such a beautiful country. Hopeful for the people of Georgia.

Thank you for reading my post Tbilisi Georgia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Please see last week’s post Yerevan Armenia. You may also be interested in reading one of my favorite historical novels about Georgia – Hard By a Great Forest by Leo Vardiashvili. I highly recommend it.

Meanwhile come back next week for a new post in our series, next up – Azerbaijan. We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts. Thank you.

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Yerevan, Armenia

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

November 8, 2024

Laureen

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Welcome to the first of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Let’s begin with Yerevan Armenia.

Where Am I?

Yerevan, Armenia is not on everyone’s travel bucket list, but it was on mine after reading about it from another travel blogger several years ago. In fact we were scheduled for this trip when Covid shut the world down. So we were happy to finally get to the beautiful Caucasus region.

Armenia was the first of eight former Soviet states we would visit on this whirlwind trip. Over the past 8 plus years on the Grand Adventure, I have grown to really appreciate what it was like behind the Iron Curtain and why many people believe things were better for them during that time. Not all, but many people miss the security they enjoyed during the Soviet era.

A Little History

Armenia, one of the oldest countries in the world, boasts a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was home to the Urartian Kingdom in the 9th century BCE, which laid the foundation for Armenian culture and identity. The Kingdom of Armenia was officially established in 301 CE when it became the first nation to adopt Christianity as its state religion, a pivotal moment that significantly influenced its cultural and social development. Throughout the centuries, Armenia faced numerous invasions and occupations, including those by the Persians, Romans, Byzantines, and later the Seljuks and Ottomans, which shaped its political landscape and often led to the displacement of its people.

Yerevan is known for it’s delicious water and free drinking fountains around the city.

Many ancient and beautiful monasteries survived the Soviet era

Learning about the Armenian Genocide was eye-opening for me. In the early 20th century, Armenia experienced one of the most tragic events in its history: the Armenian Genocide. Perpetrated by the Ottoman Empire during World War I, an estimated 1.5 million Armenians were extinguished. Why have I never heard about this?

Be sure to check out the book review The Sandcastle Girls by Chris Bohjalian I posted last Wednesday. This novel is a must-read to learn more about the Armenian Genocide.

Following the war, Armenia briefly declared independence in 1918 but was soon incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920, where it remained until the dissolution of the USSR in 1991.

Few people are aware of the horrific genocide the Armenian people suffered at the hands of the Ottoman Empire in the early 20th Century. Armenia’s relation with Turkey remains strained.

How’s it Going?

Since gaining independence 1991, Armenia has sought to rebuild its national identity and address the historical injustices faced by its people. The country is navigating complex geopolitical challenges, particularly its relationship with neighboring Turkey and Azerbaijan. Armenia is part of the EU’s Eastern Partnership since 2009. Today, Armenia is recognized for its rich cultural heritage, including its ancient churches and monasteries, and its ongoing efforts to establish itself as a modern nation-state in the South Caucasus region. The world-wide Armenian diaspora (about 10 million) create awareness around the world about this little known and beautiful region of our planet.

As a visitor to Yerevan Armenia, we found most everything inexpensive from restaurants to tours and souvenirs. During our stay we ate delicious meals with drinks in Yerevan for less than $25 USD for two. Gas prices however, were about $5.30 gallon. The average monthly salary in Armenia is around $675 USD a month.

We even found a couple of craft breweries. Hubby happy.

The Good

Armenia is still working its way through issues from the past Soviet era, but the people we met seem happy with the direction of their country with some exceptions regarding education. In Yerevan (one of the oldest cities in the world) we had a great Airbnb with an engaged and friendly host. We did three tours; a history walking tour, a food walking tour and a cooking class and market tour. These were all private tours we booked through Viator, and we had excellent guides and experiences. All of our guides spoke great English and were enthusiastic about the future of their country.

Walking tour we learned so many things including about the more than 115 drinking fountains around the city

Jengyalov Hac is one of the best things I have ever eaten. Without our guide we would never have known about this herb stuffed sandwich.

The Bad

Similar to our visit last spring to Albania and Serbia, the traffic was awful. It’s clear that the pace of automobile acquisition in Yerevan, Armenia after independence has outmatched that of infrastructure development. Drivers are aggressive, blaring horns constantly and the din can be annoying. Most drivers seem untrained with little regard for rules of the road. Case in point – we ordered a taxi on a rainy day. The taxi arrived and it was an old car, no seat belts and past it’s prime. In hindsight we should never have gotten in this vehicle. But we did. The driver was driving way too fast, in the wrong lane and swerved to miss a car. We crashed into a concrete barrier. Unfortunately, because we were not wearing seat belts, my husband hit is head hard on the ceiling and suffered a concussion.

Accident does not look bad, but our injuries were due to the fact we were not wearing seat belts. Despite rules for such safety features, we had little recourse.

Because of the concussion and my husband needing to rest, we ended up missing our all day tour outside of the city to Khor Virap and the Tatev Monastery. Even though I did not visit these places, I still recommend them if you have the chance. These are the top sights outside of Yerevan. It was disappointing but necessary for us to not travel on the day after our taxi accident.

Khor Virap (Canva) with Mount Ararat in the distance

Genocide

The Genocide is one of the worst things that has happened to the Armenian people, and it is something few people in the world know about. The Armenian genocide was the systematic destruction of the Armenian people and identity in the Ottoman Empire during World War I. Spearheaded by the ruling Committee of Union and Progress (CUP), it was implemented primarily through the mass murder of around one million Armenians during death marches to the Syrian Desert and the forced Islamization of others, primarily women and children. Today in Yerevan, this horrific period is remembered with an excellent Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum that is a must visit for everyone visiting Armenia.

Today Armenia has no diplomatic relations with neighboring Azerbaijan. There are no open border crossings which presents a problem for visitors navigating the Caucasus region. This is due to the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict – an ethnic and territorial dispute between Armenia and Azerbaijan. This is an ongoing issue, very volatile, with no negotiations in sight.

The Beautiful

Yerevan, Armenia has many beautiful sites. We enjoyed our time inside the city. Our favorite places included the giant statue of Mother Armenia, the view of Mount Ararat (Armenians believe it to be where Noah’s Ark is), the Yerevan Cascade Climb, Matenadaran Manuscript Library, Republic Square and the amazing Genocide Memorial and Museum. We spent several hours exploring the National Gallery of Armenia and the GUM Market (has nothing to do with chewing gum) and we recommend both.

The beautiful and kind people stood out. They were interested in us and welcoming. Like many of the countries we visit, we did not meet any other Americans. Most of the visitors are from Europe.

Mount Ararat on a cloudy day. Most of the mountain currently lies in Turkey and is one of Armenia’s border conflicts with that nation

A shout out to the local Emergency Room too. Our wonderful Airbnb host personally escorted us to the emergency room on a Sunday, stayed with us the entire time and translated for us. We would have been lost without him. Our ER visit with CatScan and prescriptions was $128.

We were lucky to have our Airbnb host help us at the hospital

Armenians are proud of their unique language and alphabet. The Armenian alphabet, created in 405 AD by the linguist and theologian Mesrop Mashtots, is a unique script that reflects the rich cultural and historical heritage of the Armenian people.

An outdoor exhibit explains the unique and ancient Armenian alphabet

Food Glorious Food

Our food tour and cooking class both provided us an eye-opening education to the cuisine of Armenia. We had amazing Khorovats – like a shishkebab grilled meat; dolma, vine leaf wrapped meat; ghapama (my favorite), a spectacular stuffed pumpkin or squash; gata – a sweet bread; pickles of every persuasion; jengyalov hac – an incredible herb filled flat bread wrap; and the famous lavash flat bread served at every meal.

Here below is a link to our YouTube video about Armenian Food. Delicious.

Watch this video to learn more about the surprising cuisines of Armenia

Yerevan, Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

Yerevan, Armenia was a perfect place to spend a week. Plenty of time to see many historical sites, museums and parks and to eat the great food. We really enjoyed the people, the architecture and the culture. We enjoyed learning about the Armenian Apostolic Church (97% of Armenians are Christian) founded 301 AD. Christianity is the official state religion.

This tiny country packs a powerful punch. Yerevan is small and easy to maneuver. It is an up and coming destination you should have on your radar. I highly recommend it. Yerevan Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

We love it when you pin and share and comment about our posts. Be sure and come back next Friday for our post about Tbilisi Georgia.

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Inspire

How to Prepare For a Long Flight

Seattle to Shanghai

September 10, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Seattle Washington USA

Even after all the flights I have taken, I still don’t enjoy it. And our flight to Shanghai is 13 hours – one of the longest we have had. We will fly from Seattle to Shanghai non-stop on Delta Airlines. How to prepare for a long flight? With all the flights I’ve taken, I have a system.

I don’t like taking sleeping pills, because I am just too drowsy throughout the following days, so I have developed a a long-flight preparation plan. Even when the flight is not 13 hours (most of our flights are 3-6 hours) I practice the following flight preparation plan:

Two-Three days before;

No alcohol and no spicy foods. Eat healthy, low sodium and easy to digest foods.

Drink lots of water

Exercise

Moisturize my skin

One day before;

Make sure my carry-on is well organized and includes the following; passport, earplugs, headphones, eyemask, water bottle, Ibuprofen, motion sickness medicine, chapstick, moisturizer, neck support, wet wipes, toothbrush and toothpaste

Exercise

Get a good night’s sleep – limit late day screen time

Do all of the above from two-days before

Day of Flight;

All of the above

Get up as early as I can but limit caffeine

Drink a lot of water in the hours before boarding

Moisturize

Set my watch to the destination time

Dress in non-binding clothes including shoes and socks or be sure to pack a pair of socks. Wear a sweater that can be easily put on and off and used as a blanket.

I never wear my contacts on the flight. I always wear my glasses.

Greet my flight attendant and be kind to them. Not only do they deserve it they might be more inclined to help if I need something during the flight.

After I board;

Organize my space before take off so I know where my things are including earplugs, water, headphones, neck pillow etc. I also use wet wipes or sanitizer and wipe down my tray table and armrests as soon as I sit down.

I like to support my feet and either do that with an inflatable foot rest or my backpack.

Take two ibuprofen with water

Look at my watch and visualize the place I’m going and the time of day it is there…see myself there.

Find a meditation station on the in-flight audio or iTunes and begin listening to the calming voice and music.

If I want to eat before sleeping, I choose a light, non-spicy meal and have a non-caffeinated non-alcoholic drink. I never drink wine because it dries me out.

After the meal I go to the toilet, moisturize in the bathroom, brush my teeth and use my chapstick too.

Back at my seat I settle in. Get cozy and warm. Check my watch and think about what time it is where I’m going. Find my meditation music and sit back. Clear my mind of everything or think about fun things I want to do when I arrive. Think about my breathing – like in yoga breath deep from the belly. Relax my jaw. Relax my shoulders. Think about restful sleep.

If I wake up, I drink water. I take a walk to stretch. I take more ibuprofen. I moisturize and use chapstick. Then I settle back in again with the restful music.

This is my best advice for long haul flights. Sometimes I watch a movie if I’m having trouble falling asleep. I never sleep soundly, but I do arrive relaxed and not too disheveled. On arrival I always try to stay awake until a normal bedtime for my destination. Luckily for us, we arrive in Shanghai in the early evening. We should be able to go to bed and hopefully wake up ready to go on our first full-day in China.

I have purchased some compression socks to try this flight. This is the first time I have done that but I know many people swear by them. So I’ll give it a try.

I welcome your suggestions for making a long flight tolerable. Please comment below. If you like our blog, please pin and share. Thanks!

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At Home -- North America Travel

A Visit to Seattle’s Pike Place Market

August 23, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Seattle Washington USA

Since I was born and raised in the great Puget Sound area, and I spend my summer in our home on the Kitsap Peninsula, the Pike Place Market has always been part of my life. As I child, we used to ride the ferry from Bremerton alone, (as young as ten years old) and spend the day wandering around the market, the Seattle Center and the Seattle waterfront. Seems crazy to think of allowing a ten-year old to do that now, but a visit to Seattle’s Pike Place Market was common – and we did!

That’s me at the iconic Public Market sign

Back in the Day

Back in the 1970’s when I was a kid, the market wasn’t so crowded, and not so many tourists as today. Did you know the Pike Place Market was founded in 1907, and is one of the oldest and largest continuously operating public markets in the United States? For generations farmers from far and wide brought their goods to sell at the market. Seattle loves this market and has fought to preserve it over the decades.

Drop some coins in the “piggy” bank to help the Pike Place Market Foundation

In 1971, Seattle citizens voted to create a Pike Place Market Historic District and the Market Historical Commission to preserve the Market’s physical and unique social character.

In the 1980’s the Pike Place Market Foundation was created to help fund and preserve the market. It was during this period that the popular Pike Place Market tiles were sold. Today as you walk the market thousands of these tiles showcase the names of market supporters.

Despite my lifelong love of a visit to Seattle’s Pike Place Market, it must be said that the market feels more of a tourist destination today than the market of my youth. And yet, there is something about this eclectic space in the middle of a bustling city that continues to draw locals alongside cruise visitors, day-trippers and tourists. A Visit to Seattle’s Pike Place Market is a must.

The Finest Produce

I can’t begin to say how many times I have wandered around the market. In a previous life I had a catering business and I would get all my produce at the market the morning of a catering job. Today I still love to pick up produce from one of the market’s longest operating vendors Sosio’s Fruit and Produce. Socio’s opened in 1943 and the current owners took over in 1990. It has been my go-to produce vendor for 48 years.

Socio’s is compact but the produce and the service are top notich

The Freshest Seafood

Although it’s lots of fun to visit Pike Place Fish Company and watch them throw the salmon with all the tourists, it’s a little too crowded for my tastes. So for decades my favorite place to buy any seafood at the market has been Pure Food Fish Market, established in 1911. Here I can find beautiful fresh fish, Dungeness crab, steamer clams and on my last visit they had the most beautiful fresh squid.

My favorite fish monger is Pure Food Fish

Perfecto Italian Specialty Foods

One of my preferred places to visit at the market is DeLaurenti’s…I never miss going in there. The history of DeLaurenti’s is a wonderful story so read about it here and be sure to visit. I love their cheese counter, always buy a couple of dolmades to pop in my mouth, and usually come home with olive oil, gnocchi and chocolate. Whatever you do don’t miss the upstairs wine room.

Fresh Baked

When my kids were still living at home, I always would stop at Pike Place Bakery and bring home a GIANT donut for each of them. These delicious treats are the size of a plate! Back in the day I paid $2 each. Today, like everything else, they are much more expensive ($8) but still worth it. They usually sell out so get there early.

Crafts and More

In addition to the wonderful food stuff at the market, you will also find a large selection of craft items, most locally made in the Pacific Northwest. When I was getting married, I went to the Pike Place Market and visited all the craft vendors. It was here I purchased gifts for each of my bridesmaids.

Craft area is very crowded when I visited recently on a Sunday

Restaurants

Two of my all time favorite restaurants in all of the world call The Pike Place Market home. You can find both The Pink Door and Cafe Campagne in Post Alley. Both of these delicious and unique eateries have been providing diners delicious and fresh foods for decades; The Pink Door since 1981 and Cafe Campagne since 1994. They are Seattle icons both.

Bastille Day Celebration at Cafe Campagne

Recently I had a meal at Half Shell, a Tom Douglas restaurant in the market formerly called Ettas’s. It was excellent and I will be back. A small but fresh and seasonal menu with the best oysters I have had in a really long time.

Pike Place Brewing is a great place to stop and have a cold one, or also a meal. We usually kill some time here, sitting at the bar for a beer or cocktail whenever we make a visit to Seattle’s Pike Place Market.

There are so many places to get great food both in and near the market. See a larger list here.

First Timer?

If you are visiting Seattle’s Pike Place Market for the first time, I recommend trying to come on a week day. But in the summer it will be crowded on any day. Tours are available of the market by verified third party vendors. Food tours, history tours and even ghost tours are some of the options. Check out Get Your Guide and Viator.

Be sure and head down to the lower level of the market

If you don’t have the time for a tour, just be sure to make your way to the lower level of the market, known as the Shops Down Under. This is a part of the market so many people miss. Eclectic shops with hidden treasures and it will be much less crowded.

There are some great facts about the market you might enjoy reading about. So learn more at 16 Things You May Not Know About the Pike Place Market.

A Few Other Things

If I need a coffee when I am at the market I like to hit up Pike Street Coffee. It is really one of the best cups of coffee in Seattle. And, considering the coffee culture in Seattle that is saying a lot.

As of this writing, Starbucks has closed their shop in the market, which was popular with tourists for it’s historic value. No news as to when it might reopen. But, since you are in Seattle there is a Starbucks on nearly every corner, including the corner of First and Pine.

So what is up with this gum wall? Yeah it’s kinda disgusting, but everybody loves it too. The Gum Wall started in the 1990s when local patrons and performers at Unexpected Productions stuck their used gum on the wall. Since those days, the wall has grown piece by piece to cover an enormous expanse of brick and continues to expand down Post Alley. In 2019 the wall was stripped of all gum and cleaned by the Pike Place Preservation Society. But of course, all the gum is back – in fact even more. Once a gum wall, always a gum wall.

A Visit to Seattle’s Pike Place Market

Seattle is undergoing a bit of a renaissance, particularly from the waterfront area to the Pike Place Market. After years of construction the new and improved waterfront is nearly complete. It includes a brand new ferry terminal and aquarium. The main thoroughfare, Alaska Way, was moved to accommodate the new aquarium which will include a pedestrian walkway flyover to the Pike Place Market. In addition to this new access pedestrians can also go between the market and the waterfront on the Harbor Steps, the Pike Street Hill Climb and the elevator from the Pike Market parking Garage.

If you haven’t been to Seattle lately, it’s time to see all the changes

The historic Pike Place Market holds a very special place in my heart as a life long resident of the beautiful Pacific Northwest. Whether you are a local or a first time visitor, it’s a must when in Seattle, any time of year.

Thanks for reading my post A Visit to Seattle’s Pike Place Market. We are grateful when you pin, share and comment on our blog posts. Thank you! See you at the market.

Be sure and see last week’s post A Magical Transformation of my Laundry Room. Also don’t miss My Favorite Hike in Washington State.

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At Home -- North America Travel

My Favorite Hike in Washington State

Tolmie Peak Mount Rainier National Park

August 9, 2024

Laureen

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I’m doubly blessed to be able to travel around the world, and yet spend my summers in the glorious Pacific Northwest. There is no place like it in the summer. Born and raised here, I took it for granted for most of my life. Only with maturity have I embraced and celebrated it’s unique beauty. My husband and I started hiking regularly during Covid…after setting it aside for years. Once we got started again we set out to discover and rediscover the best hikes in the region. And thanks to my friend Julie, I found my favorite hike in Washington State – Tolmie Peak in Mount Rainier National Park.

Mount Rainier National Park

We did a lot of hiking when I was a child, most of it in the Olympic National Park area close to our home on the Kitsap Peninsula. I still have a home on the Kitsap Peninsula, and we hike often in the Olympic Peninsula. But Mount Rainier is only a couple of hours away, and the Tolmie Peak hike is entered via the Carbon River entrance, so you don’t need to worry about the new reservation system at Paradise or Sunrise.

Eunice Lake below and Rainier to the South

Mount Rainier National Park has an abundance of hikes for the novice to the expert. From day hikes to multi-day treks whatever you desire it’s here. Tolmie is perfect for anyone with a little bit of hiking experience looking for a spectacular view. Round trip its about 5.5 miles with a 1500 foot elevation gain. The trail is well cared for and you’ll be accompanied by lots of other nature lovers. Weekdays are generally not too busy so try not to go on a weekend in the summer. The trail usually opens shortly after the 4th of July and stays open until late September.

Why I Love Tolmie

This is a hike I feel confident doing solo. I feel safe and I know it’s within my skill level. It’s easy to decide to stop at Eunice Lake, especially when you look up to the peak. It can look daunting. But in reality, the portion of the hike that puts you out at Eunice Lake is much more difficult than the next mile up to the peak. Whatever you do, don’t give up at Eunice Lake. Finish the trek and you will not regret it when you see the view. The last time I hiked to Tolmie it was a crystal clear day and not only did I enjoy the Rainier view but I had the clearest view of Mount Saint Helens I have ever seen from the peak. It’s also easy to see Mount Baker to the north.

What You Need to Know

To get to Tolmie drive towards Enumclaw through Bonney Lake. Just before reaching Buckley, go right on Mundy Loss Road. Follow Highway 165 to the historic coal mining villages of Wilkeson and Carbonado. From Carbonado it’s 4 miles to where the pavement ends. Here you will follow a gravel road another 11 miles. It usually takes 35-45 minutes depending on the traffic. Don’t bother washing your car the day before this drive.

When you reach Mowich Lake, you can park near the campground or on the gravel road. Access the trail either at the campground or off the gravel road where a sign marks the trail. The first part of the trail runs along the beautiful blue Mowich Lake before heading off into the wilderness for two miles to Eunice Lake. Another mile up to the peak.

There is another hike out of the Mowich Campground called Spray Park. Also very beautiful especially when the wildflowers are peaking.

What to Bring

Be sure to bring sunscreen, mosquito repellent, a hat and lots of water. I always eat my lunch at the top before meandering back down to the car. Take your time; there is spectacular bird watching along the trail. Last summer I saw a bear eating berries about 50 yards off the trail in a meadow.

Be sure to pack out everything you bring in. There are no public facilities on the trail.

You will need a National Park Pass. If you don’t have an annual pass you can get a pass in a self-pay station at Paul’s Peak shortly before arriving at Mowich Lake.

My Favorite Hike in Washington State

We have hiked a lot over the decades and there is just something about this hike that makes my heart sing. There is no better view in the world – and I have seen a lot of the world. Mount Rainier is my Queen, my Church, my Goddess. She is inspiring. I hope you will do this hike on a sunny day and see why I love it so very much.

Thanks for reading my post My Favorite Hike in Washington State – Tolmie Peak Mount Rainier National Park. We love it when you pin, share and comment on our blog posts. Thank you.

Be sure and see last week’s post Tracking Trolls in the Pacific Northwest.

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review 12 Trips in 12 Months by Jen Ruiz

July 17, 2024

Laureen

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Jen Ruiz is a travel blogger like me, who I have followed online for the past couple of years. Jen’s travel story is much different than ours, mostly in that she is single and in her thirties. But the basis of her book is about how she set out to travel once a month during the year she was about to turn 30. She documents how she pulled it off and how it changed her life. Here is my book review 12 Trips in 12 Months by Jen Ruiz.

As I Always Say

As I always say, full time travel is not for everyone. We began our travel life after retirement in our late fifties. Jen, like many young professionals, was struggling with career, relationships and searching for something…she found it with travel.

Success

Our standards for women, even today, scrutinizes those who haven’t achieved success by being a wife and mother. Despite Jen being a successful attorney, she felt unfulfilled with this pressure of society. When another relationship failed, she was left holding plane tickets and decided to go for it. Without much thought, she found herself solo in Greece. And so it began.

Learning Curve

The travel life has a pretty steep learning curve…don’t I know it. And for Jen she was solo and female which presents additional challenges. But despite a few mistakes, her Greek adventure gave her the confidence to set out on 12 trips in 12 months as I way to finish off her final year of her twenties.

And in fact, during that year she actually ended up taking 20 trips…using vacation, long weekends and most o her sick days. By the end of the year it was clear to Jen she wanted to walk away from her career and find a new life as a travel writer. And here she is today.

Inspiring

Jen’s journey may look different than what many people are searching for, but you can draw inspiration particularly in regards to the courage and introspection it takes to challenge yourself and live outside the box…something I have lived and loved successfully myself.

Book Review 12 Trips in 12 Months by Jen Ruiz

Thanks for reading this week’s book review 12 Trips in 12 Months by Jen Ruiz. Follow Jen @jenonajetplane

See last week’s book review The Feather Thief by Kirk Johnson.

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Become a World Traveler -- Inspire

My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World

June 21, 2024

Laureen

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I’ve been truly blessed with some astonishing wildlife encounters over the past eight years in our world travels. This past year has been particularly memorable, and I thought it would be good time to pull together a post about My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World. I hope you enjoy it.

My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World

When we started the Grand Adventure Travel Life, I didn’t really set out to discover incredible wildlife. It quickly became apparent however, that fascinating, new-to-us wildlife was going to be a big part of our travels. Wildlife in the jungles, forests and savannas. Birds in the air. Fish and mammals in the sea. Even insects, reptiles and crustaceans became a new fascination for these old folks – always ready to learn something new.

Elephant Family Etosha National Park Namibia

The wildlife encounters listed below are by no means the only ones…but they are some of my favorites. Some of these moments simply took my breath away. Gave me pause. Held me in rapture at nature in all her glory.

Australia

Australia. Oh my God. The land of never ending surprises. Of course there are kangaroos, wallabies and koala. There are also immense collections of bird life, reptiles and bugs. There are so many animals in the wild, and in fact it’s astonishing how many kangaroo get hit by cars. Australia blew our mind – and we are planning to return for our third visit in 2025.

Mama Roo and Joey, Booderee National Park, Australia

Namibia

When we first started talking about Namibia, I wasn’t even sure where it was (just north of South Africa). Our ten day tour in Namibia is still one of our favorite travel experiences. The elephant image below, is in my mind, the best photo I ever took. It was easy though…so much beauty everywhere we turned.

Sunset Elephant, Etosha National Park Namibia

Uganda

To celebrate my 60th birthday we splurged on a Mountain Gorilla Trek in Uganda. Life changing. If you can make this happen once in your life, do it.

Philippines

I’ve told this story before about how when I was a child we had a picture book with a tarsier on the glossy cover. I was terrified of that animal. Seeing it in the wild in Philippines was one of the most amazing things I have ever done. Tiny and harmless, I love these animals so much. We also had one of our best snorkel days in the Philippines…swimming with millions of sardines.

Snorkleing at Ningaloo Reef Panglao Philippines

Madagascar

Our most recent wildlife adventure was a ten-day private tour in Madagascar. I was mostly looking forward to seeing the baobab trees, and was hoping we would see a few lemurs. Oh my goodness. Lemurs and so much more. It was an absolute joy and I am so glad we did this tour.

Fascinating chameleons all over Madagascar

Botswana

Botswana was a quick visit while also visiting Victoria Falls in Zambia/Zimbabwe. But our brief visit afforded us some fabulous wild life encounters including lots of hippopotamus in the Zambezi River.

Curious giraffe, Chobi National Park Botswana

The hippopotamus is one of the most dangerous animals in the world

Papua New Guinea

I did not take this photo (Thank you Canva), but seeing the Bird of Paradise in Papua New Guinea was a dream come true. In fact, we saw several different species of Bird of Paradise, as well as multiple other very special and beautiful birds. Astounding.

Sri Lanka

We loved our visit to Sri Lanka, a country many people overlook. We started our three week visit with a six day tour, that included a visit to Yala National Park. Yala is home to a giant population of Asian Elephants. It was the most elephants in one place I had ever seen. We also had a wonderful up close and personal encounter with a beautiful and camouflaged leopard.

Asian elephant, Yala National Park Sri Lanka

Borneo/Malaysia

I had always wanted to see the Orangutans, and so when we decided to spend a couple of months in Malaysia, I began to research how to spend a few days on the island of Borneo and visit the Sepilok Reserve. We did this four day visit without a tour guide, it was very easy to do. We loved the Sepilok Forest Edge Lodge and the fact we could walk to the Orangatan Reserve. AND seeing the incredible Proboscis Monkeys was an added bonus!

This orangutan just mosied past me on the walkway!

Funny looking and beautiful too – Proboscis Monkey

Costa Rica

Our three week visit to Costa Rica with our dear friends was one of the most memorable trips we have made. Not only did we get to see sloths for the first time, the turtles and bird life was spectacular.

Honduras

We spent six weeks on the island of Roatan Honduras and I would definitely go back. There are several reserves set up on the island to protect and conserve remaining wildlife. I think our favorite moments though were spotting beautiful Red Macaws right near our condo and the giant and docile iguana

The biggest iguana I have ever seen, Roatan Honduras

Iceland

We came for the scenery and the midnight sun, and we were not disappointed. Wildlife was a bonus and our favorite things were the wild reindeer and the beautiful puffins. I did not take this puffin photo (Thank you Canva), we were not this close, but Iceland did not disappoint and I encourage everyone to visit that incredible country.

New Zealand

We loved our seven week visit to New Zealand, although we loved it mostly for the beauty, scenery and hiking. We did not encounter much wildlife on this trip, but at the very end of our visit we stumbled on a biologist tagging Kiwi birds. Kiwi are incredibly shy and are rarely seen by visitors or locals. So to be able to meet this beautiful bird before she was released back into the brush was very special.

Galapagos/Ecuador

Although this trip was before we launched the Grand Adventure, our week touring the Galapagos Islands for my fiftieth birthday is one of our favorite memories of our travel life. Teeming with fascinating animals and bird life, it’s a memorable and once in a lifetime destination. Just go.

Galapagos land Iguana – he smiled at me!

Male Frigate bird showing off, Galapagos

USA

Of course, since I am an American, I have had many opportunities to see wildlife in my own big country. Montana is a favorite, Hawaii too, New England as well as my own great state of Washington where I spend my summers.

Monk Seals are also protected in Hawaii – stay clear

Young Grizzly, Glacier National Park Montana

There is More

There is more…but I think these I’ve listed here remain some of my all time favorites. And I’m not done yet…we have lots more travel in our future, as we explore and show reverence to Mother Nature and the fascinating wildlife of our planet.

My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World

Nature teaches us so much about the fragility of our world, and careful, sustainable travel provides so many opportunities to understand nature better. I have been so incredibly blessed to have had so many amazing up close and personal wildlife experiences – My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World.

See last week’s post A Day Trip to Bratislava Slovakia.

We love it when you comment, pin, and share our blog posts. Thanks and talk to you again soon.

NOTE : With this blog post I end year eight of our Grand Adventure. I will be taking several weeks, possibly a couple months, off from posting new blog material. We have fall travel planned, I’ll be back before that, but in the meantime, I want to be present here in the USA with my family. Thanks for your continued support – I’ll be back…

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Follow us as we inspire you to live your best life now. We find inspiration in our Retired Midlife through travel and learning new cultures, writing and reading! What inspires you? I am a retired Grey Goddess on the Go, here to empower and inspire you through your Fabulous middle years! We write regular travel posts and book reviews and have been sharing this blog for 12 years!! Join our club and be fabulous too! You can find us on YouTube, Facebook, Instagram and Threads. My Fab Fifties Life!