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Tbilisi, Georgia

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

November 15, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Tbilisi Georgia

Welcome to the second of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Tbilisi Georgia.

The country of Georgia just blew my mind for it’s history, beauty, people, wine and food! I really enjoyed my week in Tbilisi. But there is political unrest too. So for today’s blog post let me start with the recent elections; Tbilisi Georgia, The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

Looking down on the city of Tbilisi after a gondola ride up the mountain. Peace bridge on the left and Performing Arts Center in the middle.

The Bad

On October 26th, a month after our visit, elections were held and the ruling party – referred to as the Dream Party – was re-elected to Parliament. Georgia has a Prime Minister/Parliamentary strong system. Immediately protests began and countries around the world questioned the legitimacy of the election. A partial recount was done and again the Dream Party was announced as the winner. Georgians took to the street in protest of what they believe was a manipulated vote with Russian interference. It’s too early to tell how this might unfold and affect tourism in this beautiful nation. For more details it is explained in the NPR Report. This entire process sounds eerily familiar to me as an American.

I will add that during our visit we had a wonderful guide on a food tour who was unusually vocal about the upcoming election. She feared that the Dream Party would do whatever it takes to win the election and keep the country pro-Russian. She and most Georgians supported moving the country forward with more Western leaning tendencies towards Europe. Georgia is waiting to be confirmed as a member of the European Union. This election result would likely remove them as a candidate.

On My Own

If you read last week’s post about our car accident while we were visiting Yerevan Armenian, you know that my husband suffered a concussion. Arne was having some pretty serious symptoms; fatigue, dizziness, trouble swallowing and numbness on his right side. We agreed that he needed a quiet week. So, luckily our Airbnb in Tbilisi was peaceful and comfortable and he spent nearly the entire week resting. Meanwhile I gallivanted around Tbilisi on my own. Tbilisi was easy for me to maneuver and the weather was great and I got to see the sites. Poor Arne.

The Good

Hopefully starting off with “the bad” didn’t turn you off too much, because my experience during the week in Tbilisi was really great. On my own I did three tours, and at the end of the week Arne joined me for one more. This is a remarkably beautiful, historic, inexpensive and DELICIOUS country. I loved it. So let’s talk about it.

Kebabs and other meat is very popular in Tbilisi

A Little History

Georgia is a country situated at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It boasts rich history that dates back to ancient times. The region has been inhabited since the Paleolithic era, and it became a significant cultural and political center in the early medieval period. The Kingdom of Georgia emerged in the 11th century. Reaching its zenith under King David IV and Queen Tamar known for its advancements in art, architecture, and literature. However, the kingdom faced invasions from the Mongols and later the Ottomans and Persians. This lead to a decline in its power and fragmentation into smaller principalities.

Stalin, who was born in Georgia, was married in this church

In the 19th century, Georgia was annexed by the Russian Empire, which brought significant changes to its political landscape. Following the collapse of the Russian Empire in 1917, Georgia declared independence, but this was short-lived as it was invaded by the Red Army in 1921. Georgia was incorporated into the Soviet Union. Georgia regained its independence in 1991 after the dissolution of the USSR. The post-Soviet period was marked by political instability and conflicts, including the wars in Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Today, Georgia is a sovereign nation striving for democratic development, economic growth, and closer ties with Europe and NATO, while preserving its unique cultural heritage.

Where Am I

We drove across the border from Armenia to Tbilisi with a hired car and driver. This is an easy way to cross the border with some sightseeing opportunities. We had to visit the countries of the Caucasus in this order. We could not go from Armenia to Azerbaijan because of closed borders between those two countries. Armenia and Georgia currently have good diplomatic relations.

Tbilisi Walking Tours

I did a walking tour and a food walking tour on my own during the week. I booked both these group tours with Viator and both were exceptional. The city of Tbilisi has some beautiful architecture, both old and new. The country of Georgia is an officially secular nation. Religion in Georgia reached a major turning point in 326 AD. The nation is largely recognized as the second country in the world (after Armenia) to have adopted Christianity. Today 85% of Georgians are Christian and 11% practice the Muslim faith. Once numbering as many as 100,000, today the Georgian Jewish population comprises only a few thousand people. Most of the Jewish population emigrated to Israel, United States and Belgium.

Typical Georgian Architecture in the old city

The historic Kashveti Church survived the Soviet era

So Delicious

Some of the best food I’ve ever eaten was right here in Tbilisi. I know right? Considering how many places I have traveled that is saying a lot. Every restaurant we ate in was amazing. Prices are incredible low (dinner for two with drinks less than $20 USD). Restaurant staff was always so welcoming. The food tour I took was so interesting. We were treated with some hidden gems including an underground bakery, a tiny secret tea room, and wine tasting.

Tea is the favored drink in Georgia as well as a social event

My favorite foods included amazing hummus; a local specialty called Khingali – a delicious dumpling; and best of all Khachapuri – the national dish of Georgia is a delicious filled pastry that Georgians eat everyday.

Kingali Dumplings – similar to soup dumplings

Both egglant and pomegranite are popular

Kachapuri – stuffed bread – has many versions. This one with goat cheese and egg was my favorite. I need to try and make this!

Check out the YouTube video below to see my Tasty Tuesday all about Georgia Cuisine

Surprising Georgian Wine

I had no idea that Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world. The fertile valleys and protective slopes of the South Caucasus were home to grapevine cultivation and neolithic wine production for at least 8000 years. Georgians are very proud of this fact and of their local wines. On each of the three tours I did on my own, we tasted wine – that’s how important it is to this region. I really enjoyed all the wine I tasted and plan to look for Georgian wines back in the USA. Who knew?

Enjoying wine tasting on the walking tour

Wine is abundant and incredibly inexpensive

The Beautiful

Tbilisi was indeed beautiful, but the surrounding region was breathtaking. I did one day trip out of the city by myself to the UNESCO World Heritage monastery of Mtskheta and the city of Gori. This destination is less than an hour outside of Tbilisi. There were only two people on this tour and our guide/driver was really great.

Christianity

Mtskheta is one of the oldest cities in Georgia as well as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is located at the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers. Currently a small provincial capital. For nearly a millennium Mtskheta was a large fortified city. It also served as a significant economic and political center of the Kingdom of Iberia.

It is the birthplace and one of the most vibrant centers of Christianity in Georgia. Mtskheta was declared the “Holy City” by the Georgian Orthodox Church in 2014. (Wikipedia)

View of the Kura River from the hilltop ancient monastery

Stunning Mountains

By the end of our week Arne was feeling up to doing an all-day private tour to Kazbegi & Gudauri. I am so glad he felt better. It would have been tragic to miss this region near the Georgian border with Russia. Truly astonishingly beautiful. It was a very long drive though, mostly due to difficult two lane roads. There is some major infrastructure work going on. Extensive improvements will help make this trip easier in the near future.

Gergeti Trinity Church – spectacular fall day and iconic view

We were blessed with outstanding weather on our late September visit. Incredibly only a week later the area was blanketed with snow. The mountain region is a well known ski area popular with both Russians and Georgians. Additionally this beautiful backdrop shows off one of Georgia’s most stunning churches, Gergeti Trinity Church. We were able to do a couple short hikes to visit a waterfall and breath the delicious mountain air.

Final Thoughts

I can’t end this post without mentioning the historic thermal baths in Tbilisi. These are a must-do when visiting this area. The history of Tbilisi’s sulfur baths dates back to the city’s founding in the 5th century. This is when King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered the natural hot springs while hunting. The city’s name, Tbilisi, is derived from the Georgian word “tbili,” meaning warm, a clear nod to these thermal waters. Visitors have several options for visiting the thermal baths, both public or private bathing. We did a private hour long bath visit on our final day and it was really fun and relaxing.

A Wonderful Surprise

Tbilisi was a wonderful surprise, and a place I would definitely come back to if given the chance. The food and wine were delicious and inexpensive. Tours and driver hire were also inexpensive. Gas is running about $3.00 USD per gallon. The average wage in Georgia is $925 per month with a wide disparity between city and rural areas. The fall scenery and weather we enjoyed was wonderful and the people we met were welcoming and interesting.

This mural celebrating female political heroes

That is not me…but the mountains are a great place to paraglide

Georgia has issues they need to work on. I remain hopeful for this country to move forward in a positive way. We wish them all the best and thank everyone who made our visit so wonderful. I will be watching their progress in the months ahead.

Such a beautiful country. Hopeful for the people of Georgia.

Thank you for reading my post Tbilisi Georgia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Please see last week’s post Yerevan Armenia. You may also be interested in reading one of my favorite historical novels about Georgia – Hard By a Great Forest by Leo Vardiashvili. I highly recommend it.

Meanwhile come back next week for a new post in our series, next up – Azerbaijan. We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts. Thank you.

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Yerevan, Armenia

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

November 8, 2024

Laureen

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Welcome to the first of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Let’s begin with Yerevan Armenia.

Where Am I?

Yerevan, Armenia is not on everyone’s travel bucket list, but it was on mine after reading about it from another travel blogger several years ago. In fact we were scheduled for this trip when Covid shut the world down. So we were happy to finally get to the beautiful Caucasus region.

Armenia was the first of eight former Soviet states we would visit on this whirlwind trip. Over the past 8 plus years on the Grand Adventure, I have grown to really appreciate what it was like behind the Iron Curtain and why many people believe things were better for them during that time. Not all, but many people miss the security they enjoyed during the Soviet era.

A Little History

Armenia, one of the oldest countries in the world, boasts a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was home to the Urartian Kingdom in the 9th century BCE, which laid the foundation for Armenian culture and identity. The Kingdom of Armenia was officially established in 301 CE when it became the first nation to adopt Christianity as its state religion, a pivotal moment that significantly influenced its cultural and social development. Throughout the centuries, Armenia faced numerous invasions and occupations, including those by the Persians, Romans, Byzantines, and later the Seljuks and Ottomans, which shaped its political landscape and often led to the displacement of its people.

Yerevan is known for it’s delicious water and free drinking fountains around the city.

Many ancient and beautiful monasteries survived the Soviet era

Learning about the Armenian Genocide was eye-opening for me. In the early 20th century, Armenia experienced one of the most tragic events in its history: the Armenian Genocide. Perpetrated by the Ottoman Empire during World War I, an estimated 1.5 million Armenians were extinguished. Why have I never heard about this?

Be sure to check out the book review The Sandcastle Girls by Chris Bohjalian I posted last Wednesday. This novel is a must-read to learn more about the Armenian Genocide.

Following the war, Armenia briefly declared independence in 1918 but was soon incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920, where it remained until the dissolution of the USSR in 1991.

Few people are aware of the horrific genocide the Armenian people suffered at the hands of the Ottoman Empire in the early 20th Century. Armenia’s relation with Turkey remains strained.

How’s it Going?

Since gaining independence 1991, Armenia has sought to rebuild its national identity and address the historical injustices faced by its people. The country is navigating complex geopolitical challenges, particularly its relationship with neighboring Turkey and Azerbaijan. Armenia is part of the EU’s Eastern Partnership since 2009. Today, Armenia is recognized for its rich cultural heritage, including its ancient churches and monasteries, and its ongoing efforts to establish itself as a modern nation-state in the South Caucasus region. The world-wide Armenian diaspora (about 10 million) create awareness around the world about this little known and beautiful region of our planet.

As a visitor to Yerevan Armenia, we found most everything inexpensive from restaurants to tours and souvenirs. During our stay we ate delicious meals with drinks in Yerevan for less than $25 USD for two. Gas prices however, were about $5.30 gallon. The average monthly salary in Armenia is around $675 USD a month.

We even found a couple of craft breweries. Hubby happy.

The Good

Armenia is still working its way through issues from the past Soviet era, but the people we met seem happy with the direction of their country with some exceptions regarding education. In Yerevan (one of the oldest cities in the world) we had a great Airbnb with an engaged and friendly host. We did three tours; a history walking tour, a food walking tour and a cooking class and market tour. These were all private tours we booked through Viator, and we had excellent guides and experiences. All of our guides spoke great English and were enthusiastic about the future of their country.

Walking tour we learned so many things including about the more than 115 drinking fountains around the city

Jengyalov Hac is one of the best things I have ever eaten. Without our guide we would never have known about this herb stuffed sandwich.

The Bad

Similar to our visit last spring to Albania and Serbia, the traffic was awful. It’s clear that the pace of automobile acquisition in Yerevan, Armenia after independence has outmatched that of infrastructure development. Drivers are aggressive, blaring horns constantly and the din can be annoying. Most drivers seem untrained with little regard for rules of the road. Case in point – we ordered a taxi on a rainy day. The taxi arrived and it was an old car, no seat belts and past it’s prime. In hindsight we should never have gotten in this vehicle. But we did. The driver was driving way too fast, in the wrong lane and swerved to miss a car. We crashed into a concrete barrier. Unfortunately, because we were not wearing seat belts, my husband hit is head hard on the ceiling and suffered a concussion.

Accident does not look bad, but our injuries were due to the fact we were not wearing seat belts. Despite rules for such safety features, we had little recourse.

Because of the concussion and my husband needing to rest, we ended up missing our all day tour outside of the city to Khor Virap and the Tatev Monastery. Even though I did not visit these places, I still recommend them if you have the chance. These are the top sights outside of Yerevan. It was disappointing but necessary for us to not travel on the day after our taxi accident.

Khor Virap (Canva) with Mount Ararat in the distance

Genocide

The Genocide is one of the worst things that has happened to the Armenian people, and it is something few people in the world know about. The Armenian genocide was the systematic destruction of the Armenian people and identity in the Ottoman Empire during World War I. Spearheaded by the ruling Committee of Union and Progress (CUP), it was implemented primarily through the mass murder of around one million Armenians during death marches to the Syrian Desert and the forced Islamization of others, primarily women and children. Today in Yerevan, this horrific period is remembered with an excellent Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum that is a must visit for everyone visiting Armenia.

Today Armenia has no diplomatic relations with neighboring Azerbaijan. There are no open border crossings which presents a problem for visitors navigating the Caucasus region. This is due to the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict – an ethnic and territorial dispute between Armenia and Azerbaijan. This is an ongoing issue, very volatile, with no negotiations in sight.

The Beautiful

Yerevan, Armenia has many beautiful sites. We enjoyed our time inside the city. Our favorite places included the giant statue of Mother Armenia, the view of Mount Ararat (Armenians believe it to be where Noah’s Ark is), the Yerevan Cascade Climb, Matenadaran Manuscript Library, Republic Square and the amazing Genocide Memorial and Museum. We spent several hours exploring the National Gallery of Armenia and the GUM Market (has nothing to do with chewing gum) and we recommend both.

The beautiful and kind people stood out. They were interested in us and welcoming. Like many of the countries we visit, we did not meet any other Americans. Most of the visitors are from Europe.

Mount Ararat on a cloudy day. Most of the mountain currently lies in Turkey and is one of Armenia’s border conflicts with that nation

A shout out to the local Emergency Room too. Our wonderful Airbnb host personally escorted us to the emergency room on a Sunday, stayed with us the entire time and translated for us. We would have been lost without him. Our ER visit with CatScan and prescriptions was $128.

We were lucky to have our Airbnb host help us at the hospital

Armenians are proud of their unique language and alphabet. The Armenian alphabet, created in 405 AD by the linguist and theologian Mesrop Mashtots, is a unique script that reflects the rich cultural and historical heritage of the Armenian people.

An outdoor exhibit explains the unique and ancient Armenian alphabet

Food Glorious Food

Our food tour and cooking class both provided us an eye-opening education to the cuisine of Armenia. We had amazing Khorovats – like a shishkebab grilled meat; dolma, vine leaf wrapped meat; ghapama (my favorite), a spectacular stuffed pumpkin or squash; gata – a sweet bread; pickles of every persuasion; jengyalov hac – an incredible herb filled flat bread wrap; and the famous lavash flat bread served at every meal.

Here below is a link to our YouTube video about Armenian Food. Delicious.

Watch this video to learn more about the surprising cuisines of Armenia

Yerevan, Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

Yerevan, Armenia was a perfect place to spend a week. Plenty of time to see many historical sites, museums and parks and to eat the great food. We really enjoyed the people, the architecture and the culture. We enjoyed learning about the Armenian Apostolic Church (97% of Armenians are Christian) founded 301 AD. Christianity is the official state religion.

This tiny country packs a powerful punch. Yerevan is small and easy to maneuver. It is an up and coming destination you should have on your radar. I highly recommend it. Yerevan Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

We love it when you pin and share and comment about our posts. Be sure and come back next Friday for our post about Tbilisi Georgia.

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At Home -- North America Travel

My Favorite Hike in Washington State

Tolmie Peak Mount Rainier National Park

August 9, 2024

Laureen

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I’m doubly blessed to be able to travel around the world, and yet spend my summers in the glorious Pacific Northwest. There is no place like it in the summer. Born and raised here, I took it for granted for most of my life. Only with maturity have I embraced and celebrated it’s unique beauty. My husband and I started hiking regularly during Covid…after setting it aside for years. Once we got started again we set out to discover and rediscover the best hikes in the region. And thanks to my friend Julie, I found my favorite hike in Washington State – Tolmie Peak in Mount Rainier National Park.

Mount Rainier National Park

We did a lot of hiking when I was a child, most of it in the Olympic National Park area close to our home on the Kitsap Peninsula. I still have a home on the Kitsap Peninsula, and we hike often in the Olympic Peninsula. But Mount Rainier is only a couple of hours away, and the Tolmie Peak hike is entered via the Carbon River entrance, so you don’t need to worry about the new reservation system at Paradise or Sunrise.

Eunice Lake below and Rainier to the South

Mount Rainier National Park has an abundance of hikes for the novice to the expert. From day hikes to multi-day treks whatever you desire it’s here. Tolmie is perfect for anyone with a little bit of hiking experience looking for a spectacular view. Round trip its about 5.5 miles with a 1500 foot elevation gain. The trail is well cared for and you’ll be accompanied by lots of other nature lovers. Weekdays are generally not too busy so try not to go on a weekend in the summer. The trail usually opens shortly after the 4th of July and stays open until late September.

Why I Love Tolmie

This is a hike I feel confident doing solo. I feel safe and I know it’s within my skill level. It’s easy to decide to stop at Eunice Lake, especially when you look up to the peak. It can look daunting. But in reality, the portion of the hike that puts you out at Eunice Lake is much more difficult than the next mile up to the peak. Whatever you do, don’t give up at Eunice Lake. Finish the trek and you will not regret it when you see the view. The last time I hiked to Tolmie it was a crystal clear day and not only did I enjoy the Rainier view but I had the clearest view of Mount Saint Helens I have ever seen from the peak. It’s also easy to see Mount Baker to the north.

What You Need to Know

To get to Tolmie drive towards Enumclaw through Bonney Lake. Just before reaching Buckley, go right on Mundy Loss Road. Follow Highway 165 to the historic coal mining villages of Wilkeson and Carbonado. From Carbonado it’s 4 miles to where the pavement ends. Here you will follow a gravel road another 11 miles. It usually takes 35-45 minutes depending on the traffic. Don’t bother washing your car the day before this drive.

When you reach Mowich Lake, you can park near the campground or on the gravel road. Access the trail either at the campground or off the gravel road where a sign marks the trail. The first part of the trail runs along the beautiful blue Mowich Lake before heading off into the wilderness for two miles to Eunice Lake. Another mile up to the peak.

There is another hike out of the Mowich Campground called Spray Park. Also very beautiful especially when the wildflowers are peaking.

What to Bring

Be sure to bring sunscreen, mosquito repellent, a hat and lots of water. I always eat my lunch at the top before meandering back down to the car. Take your time; there is spectacular bird watching along the trail. Last summer I saw a bear eating berries about 50 yards off the trail in a meadow.

Be sure to pack out everything you bring in. There are no public facilities on the trail.

You will need a National Park Pass. If you don’t have an annual pass you can get a pass in a self-pay station at Paul’s Peak shortly before arriving at Mowich Lake.

My Favorite Hike in Washington State

We have hiked a lot over the decades and there is just something about this hike that makes my heart sing. There is no better view in the world – and I have seen a lot of the world. Mount Rainier is my Queen, my Church, my Goddess. She is inspiring. I hope you will do this hike on a sunny day and see why I love it so very much.

Thanks for reading my post My Favorite Hike in Washington State – Tolmie Peak Mount Rainier National Park. We love it when you pin, share and comment on our blog posts. Thank you.

Be sure and see last week’s post Tracking Trolls in the Pacific Northwest.

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review 12 Trips in 12 Months by Jen Ruiz

July 17, 2024

Laureen

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Jen Ruiz is a travel blogger like me, who I have followed online for the past couple of years. Jen’s travel story is much different than ours, mostly in that she is single and in her thirties. But the basis of her book is about how she set out to travel once a month during the year she was about to turn 30. She documents how she pulled it off and how it changed her life. Here is my book review 12 Trips in 12 Months by Jen Ruiz.

As I Always Say

As I always say, full time travel is not for everyone. We began our travel life after retirement in our late fifties. Jen, like many young professionals, was struggling with career, relationships and searching for something…she found it with travel.

Success

Our standards for women, even today, scrutinizes those who haven’t achieved success by being a wife and mother. Despite Jen being a successful attorney, she felt unfulfilled with this pressure of society. When another relationship failed, she was left holding plane tickets and decided to go for it. Without much thought, she found herself solo in Greece. And so it began.

Learning Curve

The travel life has a pretty steep learning curve…don’t I know it. And for Jen she was solo and female which presents additional challenges. But despite a few mistakes, her Greek adventure gave her the confidence to set out on 12 trips in 12 months as I way to finish off her final year of her twenties.

And in fact, during that year she actually ended up taking 20 trips…using vacation, long weekends and most o her sick days. By the end of the year it was clear to Jen she wanted to walk away from her career and find a new life as a travel writer. And here she is today.

Inspiring

Jen’s journey may look different than what many people are searching for, but you can draw inspiration particularly in regards to the courage and introspection it takes to challenge yourself and live outside the box…something I have lived and loved successfully myself.

Book Review 12 Trips in 12 Months by Jen Ruiz

Thanks for reading this week’s book review 12 Trips in 12 Months by Jen Ruiz. Follow Jen @jenonajetplane

See last week’s book review The Feather Thief by Kirk Johnson.

We love it when you share, pin and comment on our book reviews. Thank you.

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Become a World Traveler -- Inspire

My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World

June 21, 2024

Laureen

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I’ve been truly blessed with some astonishing wildlife encounters over the past eight years in our world travels. This past year has been particularly memorable, and I thought it would be good time to pull together a post about My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World. I hope you enjoy it.

My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World

When we started the Grand Adventure Travel Life, I didn’t really set out to discover incredible wildlife. It quickly became apparent however, that fascinating, new-to-us wildlife was going to be a big part of our travels. Wildlife in the jungles, forests and savannas. Birds in the air. Fish and mammals in the sea. Even insects, reptiles and crustaceans became a new fascination for these old folks – always ready to learn something new.

Elephant Family Etosha National Park Namibia

The wildlife encounters listed below are by no means the only ones…but they are some of my favorites. Some of these moments simply took my breath away. Gave me pause. Held me in rapture at nature in all her glory.

Australia

Australia. Oh my God. The land of never ending surprises. Of course there are kangaroos, wallabies and koala. There are also immense collections of bird life, reptiles and bugs. There are so many animals in the wild, and in fact it’s astonishing how many kangaroo get hit by cars. Australia blew our mind – and we are planning to return for our third visit in 2025.

Mama Roo and Joey, Booderee National Park, Australia

Namibia

When we first started talking about Namibia, I wasn’t even sure where it was (just north of South Africa). Our ten day tour in Namibia is still one of our favorite travel experiences. The elephant image below, is in my mind, the best photo I ever took. It was easy though…so much beauty everywhere we turned.

Sunset Elephant, Etosha National Park Namibia

Uganda

To celebrate my 60th birthday we splurged on a Mountain Gorilla Trek in Uganda. Life changing. If you can make this happen once in your life, do it.

Philippines

I’ve told this story before about how when I was a child we had a picture book with a tarsier on the glossy cover. I was terrified of that animal. Seeing it in the wild in Philippines was one of the most amazing things I have ever done. Tiny and harmless, I love these animals so much. We also had one of our best snorkel days in the Philippines…swimming with millions of sardines.

Snorkleing at Ningaloo Reef Panglao Philippines

Madagascar

Our most recent wildlife adventure was a ten-day private tour in Madagascar. I was mostly looking forward to seeing the baobab trees, and was hoping we would see a few lemurs. Oh my goodness. Lemurs and so much more. It was an absolute joy and I am so glad we did this tour.

Fascinating chameleons all over Madagascar

Botswana

Botswana was a quick visit while also visiting Victoria Falls in Zambia/Zimbabwe. But our brief visit afforded us some fabulous wild life encounters including lots of hippopotamus in the Zambezi River.

Curious giraffe, Chobi National Park Botswana

The hippopotamus is one of the most dangerous animals in the world

Papua New Guinea

I did not take this photo (Thank you Canva), but seeing the Bird of Paradise in Papua New Guinea was a dream come true. In fact, we saw several different species of Bird of Paradise, as well as multiple other very special and beautiful birds. Astounding.

Sri Lanka

We loved our visit to Sri Lanka, a country many people overlook. We started our three week visit with a six day tour, that included a visit to Yala National Park. Yala is home to a giant population of Asian Elephants. It was the most elephants in one place I had ever seen. We also had a wonderful up close and personal encounter with a beautiful and camouflaged leopard.

Asian elephant, Yala National Park Sri Lanka

Borneo/Malaysia

I had always wanted to see the Orangutans, and so when we decided to spend a couple of months in Malaysia, I began to research how to spend a few days on the island of Borneo and visit the Sepilok Reserve. We did this four day visit without a tour guide, it was very easy to do. We loved the Sepilok Forest Edge Lodge and the fact we could walk to the Orangatan Reserve. AND seeing the incredible Proboscis Monkeys was an added bonus!

This orangutan just mosied past me on the walkway!

Funny looking and beautiful too – Proboscis Monkey

Costa Rica

Our three week visit to Costa Rica with our dear friends was one of the most memorable trips we have made. Not only did we get to see sloths for the first time, the turtles and bird life was spectacular.

Honduras

We spent six weeks on the island of Roatan Honduras and I would definitely go back. There are several reserves set up on the island to protect and conserve remaining wildlife. I think our favorite moments though were spotting beautiful Red Macaws right near our condo and the giant and docile iguana

The biggest iguana I have ever seen, Roatan Honduras

Iceland

We came for the scenery and the midnight sun, and we were not disappointed. Wildlife was a bonus and our favorite things were the wild reindeer and the beautiful puffins. I did not take this puffin photo (Thank you Canva), we were not this close, but Iceland did not disappoint and I encourage everyone to visit that incredible country.

New Zealand

We loved our seven week visit to New Zealand, although we loved it mostly for the beauty, scenery and hiking. We did not encounter much wildlife on this trip, but at the very end of our visit we stumbled on a biologist tagging Kiwi birds. Kiwi are incredibly shy and are rarely seen by visitors or locals. So to be able to meet this beautiful bird before she was released back into the brush was very special.

Galapagos/Ecuador

Although this trip was before we launched the Grand Adventure, our week touring the Galapagos Islands for my fiftieth birthday is one of our favorite memories of our travel life. Teeming with fascinating animals and bird life, it’s a memorable and once in a lifetime destination. Just go.

Galapagos land Iguana – he smiled at me!

Male Frigate bird showing off, Galapagos

USA

Of course, since I am an American, I have had many opportunities to see wildlife in my own big country. Montana is a favorite, Hawaii too, New England as well as my own great state of Washington where I spend my summers.

Monk Seals are also protected in Hawaii – stay clear

Young Grizzly, Glacier National Park Montana

There is More

There is more…but I think these I’ve listed here remain some of my all time favorites. And I’m not done yet…we have lots more travel in our future, as we explore and show reverence to Mother Nature and the fascinating wildlife of our planet.

My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World

Nature teaches us so much about the fragility of our world, and careful, sustainable travel provides so many opportunities to understand nature better. I have been so incredibly blessed to have had so many amazing up close and personal wildlife experiences – My Favorite Wildlife Encounters Around the World.

See last week’s post A Day Trip to Bratislava Slovakia.

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NOTE : With this blog post I end year eight of our Grand Adventure. I will be taking several weeks, possibly a couple months, off from posting new blog material. We have fall travel planned, I’ll be back before that, but in the meantime, I want to be present here in the USA with my family. Thanks for your continued support – I’ll be back…

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Europe Travel

One Day in Bratislava Slovakia

June 14, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Bratislava Slovakia

The tiny medieval town of Bratislava is often a stop on Danube river cruises. It’s an easy town to wander on your own, or take an organized tour. It’s also a very easy day trip from Vienna – which is how we we visited and spent One Day in Bratislava Slovakia.

Day Trip

We visited as a day trip from Vienna, where we had spent a week (Visiting Vienna Austria). There are a couple of options for getting to Bratislava. Twin City Liner is a hydrofoil option, you can book direct or go on a guided tour. The full-day tour leaves from Vienna and gives you several hours to wander Bratislava as well as enjoy the beautiful Danube. This service is only in available in the summer.

Since we were in Vienna in late April, we missed the start of the Twin City Liner season by just a week. So, instead we took a bus. We did Flixbus, with multiple daily round-trip options on a beautiful and comfortable coach for under $20 each. By taking Flixbus, we were on our own in Bratislava to make our own choices. But you can also do a guided tour, leaving from Vienna Opera House using Get Your Guide.

Bratislava

The hour and a half bus ride from Vienna to Bratislava was super easy. We arrived in Bratislava refreshed and ready to walk around. The weather was lovely. We had booked a walking tour at noon, but we had more than an hour to get our bearings. First thing we noticed was so many different gelato stands. Well, 10:30 isn’t too early for gelato! Savoring our treat we walked around the tree-lined pedestrian walkway, admiring the Bratislava Old Town Hviezdoslav Square. This gathering place is home to one of the cities most beautiful buildings, The National Theater, and a statue of Poet Pavol Országh – a famous Slovak.

Walking Tour

Next we wandered through the pedestrian streets lined with shops and restaurants to admire Saint Michael’s Gate. Completed in the 14th century this beautiful medieval gate is the last from the fortified city. Be sure not to miss it.

Now it was time for our walking tour. As always, I promote a walking tour in any and every city we visit. Walking with a local, we were guided to some of the hidden spaces of Bratislava. We started learning about history and culture at the meeting point of Fransiscan Square – home to the 13th century Franciscan Church. Our guide was wonderful with a great grasp on both the old and new of Bratislava. We visited Primates Square where the Parliament is and visited the statue of Saint George.

On our way to the famous Blue Church (mostly famous just because it’s blue) we passed by a former location of another gate to the old city. Next we heard a very interesting account of the Bratislava 1989 student uprisings that would eventually bring down communism. In 1992 Slovakia declared itself a sovereign state from the Czech Republic. Czeckolslovakia became two independent nations.

Danube

We finished our interesting walking tour by walking out onto Stary Most bridge, a recently rebuilt bridge across the Danube for pedestrians, cyclists and trams. From the bridge we enjoyed seeing all the river cruise boats in port and the beautiful view of the castle up on the hill.

River boats passing under Stary Most Bridge

Let’s Eat

The national dish of Slovakia is potato dumplings with sheep’s cheese and bacon. So of course I had to try it. Many places in Bratislava serve traditional dishes, but on the suggestion of our walking tour guide we ended up at Meanto and enjoyed sitting outside on the cobbled street. We had cabbage dumplings as well, fried potatoes and garlic soup. It was a delicious meal.

Bratislava Castle

Our final stop on our day in Bratislava was the castle, standing sentry atop the hill overlooking the city.

There is evidence of a settlement here as far back as the 600-500 BC. Coins have been found from the Moravian Empire but in the 12th century the castle began to change. The towers were added in the 13th century and further renovations occurred in the 15th century. The last large scale reconstruction occurred under the reign of Maria Teresa in the late 1700’s.

But in 1811 a devastating fire took the majority of the ancient building down. It sat in ruins for more than 100 years, until reconstruction began in 1953. Today the castle is home to the Slovak National Museum. The grounds and gardens are a lovely place for families to gather and picnic and it is a must visit when in Bratislava.

The view of the Danube from the Bratislava Castle

Back to Vienna

After a full day trip to Bratislava it was time for our return bus to Vienna. Once again the comfy bus safely returned us, with a very brief stop at the border where a border agent glanced at passports before flagging us on.

One Day in Bratislava Slovakia

I definitely recommend One Day in Bratislava Slovakia and you should do a walking tour to get the most of your visit. It was a wonderful way to see a new city and a new country for me.

Thank you for reading my post One Day in Bratislava Slovakia. Be sure to read last week’s post Mad About Madagascar here. You might also enjoy Visiting Vienna Austria here.

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Africa & The Middle East Travel

Mad About Madagascar

June 7, 2024

Laureen

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Madagascar had long been a bucket list item for me. We had begun researching Madagascar the year before Covid…but of course had to put it on the back burner. I’ve been anxious to get it back in our travel itinerary, and well, let me tell you, it was worth the wait. You may know how much my husband and I love a wildlife and birding adventure. Madagascar really delivered on that front…but in many other ways as well. I am now totally Mad About Madagascar and hope I can impress upon you what an incredible destination it is.

Touring Madagascar

You can do independent travel in Madagascar, but frankly I wouldn’t recommend it. Infrastructure in Madagascar is poor. Roads are long, bumpy and poorly maintained. Having a driver who can expertly and safely maneuver the roads is important. Secondly, the wildlife. Throughout our ten day visit to Madagascar we had two different regional driver/guides and an additional five other site specific guides. The site specific guides played a very important role in the success of our tour. Their expertise in finding wildlife, birds and plants as well as teaching us about the local history, culture and people was immeasurable. Do a tour. You won’t regret it.

There are dozens of tour companies…probably hundreds. We used a company called Fosa and booked a private ten day tour and upgraded our hotels. We also upgraded to add a flight between the long distance of Antananarivo and Morondava…saving us from a full 10 hour day of treacherous driving. Do your research to find the best fit for you.

Mad About Madagascar

Madagascar was so much better than I expected. After our first two days I thought – well we can go home now, it can’t get any better. And yet…it did. It was unexpected at every turn. So let me tell you the highlights of the things we saw, did and experienced. Let me tell you why I am now Mad About Madagascar.

Baobabs

It’s these amazing trees that I wanted to see in Madagascar. I really wasn’t prepared for all the other astonishing things…so that was a bonus. But these amazing Baobab trees were everything I had hoped for. Avenue of the Baobabs, also called Alley of the Baobabs, is not the only place you can enjoy the Baobabs. They are scattered all over the region between Morondava and Kirindy in the south. We first sighted them from the airplane.

Adansonia is a genus made up of eight species of medium-to-large deciduous trees known as baobabs(/ˈbaʊbæb/ or /ˈbeɪoʊbæb/) or adansonias. They are placed in the Malvaceae family, subfamily Bombacoideae. They are native to Madagascar, mainland Africa, and Australia.^[2] The trees have also been introduced to other regions such as Asia.^[3] A genomic and ecological analysis has suggested that the genus is Madagascan in origin. (Wikipedia)

Baobab trees can grow to enormous sizes and carbon dating indicates that they may live to be 3,000 years old. Baobab trees grow as solitary individuals, and are large and distinctive elements of savanna or scrubland vegetation. They grow from 5–25 meters (16–82 feet) tall. An amazing site to see. I think every tour will take you to The Avenue of the Baobabs.

Other Flora

Throughout our tour we enjoyed many other species of plant life. From the giant Baobab to the tiniest of fungus. Because we showed a lot of interest in plants and birds as well as wildlife, all of our guides went to great lengths to point out the beauty of Madagascar underfoot and overhead.

Chameleons

I wasn’t very familiar with chameleons before arriving in Madagascar, and I have to say, I think they are my new favorite creature. These handsome docile bug eaters just hang out and mind their business in the jungles of Madagascar, all while sporting a beautiful and showy suit. I love them. Madagascar is home to over 150 kinds of chameleons and we saw many of them, both in the wild and at a reserve that is working to conserve the reptiles who are threatened from deforestation. Our wonderful guides with their eagle eyes spotted sleeping chameleons during our night-walks and camouflaged chameleons in the bright day. Additional reptiles we found were frogs, snakes and geckos. What a show they all gave us.

At the reserve this one matched my headband

Birds

As loyal followers of this blog well know, travel has turned my husband and I into birders. I used to be pretty ambivalent about birds…but once you travel around the world the presence of birds becomes such an important part of each day. We love birding and our guides were incredible at helping us find more than 20 new-to-us species during our ten day tour. And one beautiful giant moth.

One thing I want to point out is, for the first time ever, we saw sleeping birds. I never have given much thought to where birds sleep. But on our night walk in Kirindy National Park, with our guide, we saw beautiful birds, sound asleep on low branches. A brand new experience for me.

Lemurs

Lemurs are probably the biggest attraction for visitors who come to Madagascar. The island is home to more than 50 kinds of Lemurs, a tree dwelling primate. And despite its close proximity to mainland Africa, the lemurs are found only on the island.

We did not see all of the species of lemurs, but we were pretty impressed with how many we did see. I was hoping we would just see one or two but we saw dozens. From the smallest mouse lemur, about 11 inches and nocturnal, to the largest – the Indri. The Indri can weigh up to 9.5 kg (21 lb) and perhaps up to 15 kg (33 lb). We encountered many families of indri in the Analamazoatra national park, and were astonished by the screaming noise they make to mark their familiar territory. Absolutely fascinating.

Most of the lemurs we saw, both during the day on night walk, were regional to the two areas we visited; Kirindy National Park and Analamazoatra National Park. But we also visited a private reserve near Andasibe where we saw many lemurs from other parts of the island, including the ring-tailed lemur the one most people are familiar with.

Culture and History

We had several opportunities during our ten day tour to engage with the local Malagasy people. Everyone we met was kind and welcoming. Tourism makes up 5% of the island economy, and most people work in farming and fishing and live a sustenance life. Everywhere we went people were toiling in some fashion. We particularly enjoyed a canoe ride in Morondava to see the fishing boats. We also waded across a shallow estuary at low tide to visit a small fishing village. Here about 1000 people live with no running water or electricity growing vegetables, fishing and boat building.

Walking to the fishing village at low tide

We also had the opportunity on our final day to do a walking tour of Antananarivo, called Tana by the locals. Antananarivo is the capital and largest city in Madagascar, home to nearly 4 million people. We visited some historic sites and walked through the very busy daily market swarming with people. This was the only place in our entire visit we were warned to be diligent about pickpockets.

Looking at the massive market downhill Antananarivo

Antananarivo is sprawling and home to 4 million people

Things to Know

Logistics

There are two official languages in Madagascar; French and Malagasy. Malagasy is just one of 18 tribal languages in the country. Most people in the tourism industry speak a bit of English. All of our guides spoke excellent English.

Don’t expect to use your credit card. We paid cash for all but one transaction over our ten day tour. Even hotels and restaurants operate in the local currency of Ariary. As of this writing the exchange rate is one Ariary = .23 US cents

Safety

I felt safe everywhere I went, and I was always with a guide. The only time we were warned to be aware of pickpockets was in the city of Antananarivo – a city of 4 million people. Crime is a problem in the city so be aware. But very little of our time was spent in the city.

Though not all areas of Madagascar are prone to malaria, we did take malaria medicine while in the country. Discuss it with you doctor.

Lodging

We stayed in five different hotels during our tour. All were excellent, clean, had delicious restaurants and friendly English speaking staff. Only one did not have Aircon or wifi due to it’s remoteness.

In Morondava we had a lovely beach-side hotel

Our stay Kirindy was the most remote lodging with no WIFI and power only a couple hours a day

In Andasibe we had a really nice bungalow surrounded by the most beautiful gardens

Costs

Our tour for two people with the upgrades I mentioned above cost $5076 for ten days. Our tour included breakfast but not lunch or dinner. We ate all our dinners at the hotels and and few lunches elsewhere. Over the ten days we spent about $400 on food and drinks. We tipped our drivers and guides generously…a total for tips over the ten days was about $250. Our round trip flight from Vienna via Addis Ababa cost $910 per person.

Mad About Madagascar

My bucket list of destinations got significantly shorter after this long awaited trip to Madagascar. It was the final destination of an 8 month long journey that started in remarkable Papua New Guinea and ended in magnificent Madagascar. What a life. My Fab Fifties Life.

I highly recommend Madagascar. If you have considered it, ask me questions. I am Mad About Madagascar and am so grateful it turned out even better than I had always imagined.

Thank you for reading my post Mad About Madagascar and for your continued interest and support of our travels. Be sure and see last week’s post Visit Vienna Austria. And come back next week for even more of our grand travel adventures.

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