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Asia & Oceania Travel

Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan

December 27, 2024

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Location: Kyrgyzstan

Welcome to the eighth and final installment of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan.

Adjectives

I can’t come up with enough adjectives to describe the beauty of Kyrgyzstan; resplendent, alluring, breathtaking, glorious, exquisite. Go ahead. Pick one. They all work to describe this tiny country and the scenery and culture.

The Good

Kyrgyzstan’s history, like all the countries we have visited on this tour, has spanned many cultures and empires due to its place on the Silk Road. However, its nearly impenetrable mountains often protected Kyrgyzstan from invasion and kept it isolated. Kyrgyzstan declared independence from the USSR and a democratic government was established. Kyrgyzstan attained sovereignty as a nation state. The Kyrgyzstan gradually developed an executive president and was governed as a semi-presidential republic before reverting to a presidential system in 2021.

Everyone we met was kind and seemed pleased to meet visitors to their country. We were very lucky to enjoy cold but clear days giving us outstanding views of the Central Tian Shin mountains – Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan.

The average monthly salary in Kyrgyzstan is about $250 USD. Gas is about $2.00 USD per gallon. Much of the country is rural and rugged and the capital city of Bishkek is home to more than 1 million of the countries 7 million people.

The Bad

Despite Kyrgyzstan being rich in metals, minerals and petroleum the people are still generally poor. Kyrgyzstan’s major exports include gold, cotton, wool, garments, meat, mercury, uranium, electricity, machinery, and shoes. There is corruption and ethnic racism issues. Lack of healthcare and terrorism threats are major problems for Kyrgyzstan’s population.

Where Are We?

After four weeks traveling together with Intrepid Travel and our group, arriving in our final country of Kyrgyzstan gave us mixed emotions. It was now late October and fall was definitely turning to winter; snow was visible on the mountains throughout our visit.

As mentioned in last week’s post (see it here), the border crossing between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan was a freezing cold scramble. But I tried to remind myself – as I stood in the bitter wind waiting to be processed by the custom agent – I would never be here again. Walking across a remote border, pummeled by wind, pulling my suitcase through gravel…not something everyone gets to do. Memorable for sure.

Kyrgyzstan is a small uniquely shaped country surrounded by mountains. To the north is Kazakhstan. To the east and south, China. Also to the south Tajikistan, and to the west Uzbekistan. We spent our visit along the northern border between Karakol and Bishkek. The topography keeps Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan rural.

Karakol

After crossing the border we arrived in the small former Soviet Military Post town of Karakol. Today Karakol is known for its proximity to ski areas, and receives visitors from many countries in the ski season. We even found a sticker from the Pacific Northwest in a small coffee shop.

On arrival in Karakol we had lunch and then had some time to wander around the small town. We enjoyed some beautiful and strange architecture, picked up some treats at the grocery store, and bought some lovely souvenirs at a small shop featuring local hand-made goods. Felting is a popular local handicraft and a perfect gift to take home.

We checked into our family run hotel which was really lovely, and after a long day Arne and I chose to skip dinner and have an early night. Next morning a delicious breakfast was served before we loaded up the van again and were off.

Before leaving the Karakol area we made a brief stop to visit the historic Dungan Mosque built in 1910. It has a unique Chinese style and was built without any nails – using a special cut and groove technique.

We then made another quick stop to visit the Holy Trinity Orthodox Church, a beautiful Russian Orthodox Church made from wood and still in operation today.

On our way out of town we stopped at a small park overlooking Issy Kul Lake that honors Nickolay Przhevalskiy who died in Karakol. Przhevalskiy was an explorer who traveled widely in Central Asia and Mongolia and documented and mapped the region.

Jeti Orghus Canyon

Now we settled in for a long drive into the gorgeous mountainous region surrounding the Issyk Kul Lake area. First we stopped to admire the picturesque geological feature roadside called the Seven Bulls. As amazing as that was, we soon learned there was much more in store.

Driving a short while further we arrived at a hiking location in the Jeti Orghus Canyon. It was a beautiful sunny and cool day, and we hiked up into the hills passing summer cabins and yurts. The views were amazing. Some went even further to a waterfall. Such a great hike and we worked up an appetite.

Oopsy!

We headed back to the van to have a picnic lunch but we discovered our van had gotten into a soft spot and was really stuck. Our wonderful driver was trying so hard to solve the issue before we returned. It took about an hour but with the strong backs of some of our fellow travelers (as well as some of the engineer types putting their heads together) we were freed from the mud and eventually on our way. Luckily the weather was good and we all enjoyed another unexpected adventure.

Onward

As much as I enjoyed this beautiful location and hike, our next stop was mind blowing. Skazka, in English Fairy Tale Canyon, was so unexpected. Literally appearing like a red mirage out in the middle of the mountains, this geological formation was very reminiscent of Arches or Bryce Canyon National Park in the USA. We had some time to walk around in the maze of trails here, both with our guide Svetlana and on our own. I loved it so much and once again we were lucky with the cold dry weather. Such a treat.

Almaluu Yurt Camp

After this wonderful day we continued along the somewhat desolate road that runs along Issyk Kul Lake. This lake is one of the largest in the world at 178km long and 60 km wide. It definitely feels more like an ocean. We arrived at the wonderful Almaluu Yurt Camp just a short walk from the lake. Although in October the camp had only our group and one other, it has dozens of yurts for groups and individuals. The yurts were huge, with coal burning stoves, shared toilet and shower facilities, and a spectacular giant yurt for meals. We would spend two cozy nights here and we really enjoyed it, including the gorgeous views.

Adventure and Education

We woke up to chilly temperatures and after a delicious hot breakfast we headed out for an unexpectedly amazing day. When reading the days itinerary before hand, I would never have expected this day to turn out to be one of my favorites from the entire trip.

Eagles

Our driver took us off road out to a large open space, where we met a local man and his Golden Eagle. We learned the importance of eagle hunting in Kyrgyzstan, and still today there is a small group of 50 expert Master Eagle Trainers and hunters. Most have learned the art from their fathers. In addition to hunting and showing the tourists, an annual gathering called the Nomad Games takes place with competition for traditional cultural skills including eagle hunting, yurt building and more.

Such an interesting lesson in local culture – Master Eagle Hunters

We learned that the ancient art of eagle hunting is a UNESCO recognized cultural heritage activity and goes back thousands of years. Eagles that are used are always female. They begin their training about three months old. They are not pets. When they are twenty years old they are released back into the wild and assimilate well and will reproduce until they die – usually around 45 years old. This eagle we had the opportunity to get to know is three years old. She was beautiful and smart.

I had some trouble – this bird was heavier than I expected!

Make Your Own Yurt

Well I had no idea what we were getting ourselves into, but what a fun we had learning how to make a yurt. Honestly it wasn’t all that hard…like putting up a tent with a few more details to take care of. We visited the home of a family of yurt-making professionals. Our hosts make yurts for people all over the world, and man now I want one. Each yurt is made in several parts that can easily be taken up and down and moved from location to location…just as the nomads used to do. The yurts are sturdy and warm. We learned the process from cutting the wood to weaving the decorative elements and then how it all goes together in a matter of about 30 minutes.

Look at the carpet and walls – functional and beautiful

Yurts were a important part of nomad life in Kyrgyzstan and surrounding regions. They are still used today for lodging and guest houses but rarely as a full home in Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan. It was a full and fabulous day. Back to our own Yurt Camp for a special relaxing dinner, including some local alcoholic specialties Svetlana acquired for us. We slept very well.

Final Day

It was our final full day in Krygyzstan and our final day on this amazing four week tour. When we signed up for this tour I was worried four weeks would be too much. It wasn’t. We were continually stimulated, inspired and entertained. It had been a marvelous experience.

We had a very early morning departure for the long drive to the capital city of Bishkek. After checking into our older but comfortable hotel we headed out for a walking tour of the city. Bishkek is a fairly modern city in the Chu River Valley. It is the capital of Krygyzstan. Our walking tour took us to several monuments and important buildings as well as parks. The best part was the changing of the guard which takes place every hour.

Farewell

Kyrgyzstan was authentic, beautiful and so worth it

Our final night on the tour, we all gathered together for a farewell dinner. I have not shared images of the entire group in any of my blog posts, because I forgot to ask permission from my fellow travelers. And I know one person in particular wasn’t keen on photos. I take that seriously. But I will say we felt very blessed to have such an amiable group, and especially to have such an outstanding guide. Intrepid Travel has my loyalty and I am sure we will travel with them again in the future.

The Five Stans; Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan were better than I imagined. As I’ve said in the past, it’s always our goal to travel with low expectations and then be pleasantly enchanted. I’ve been asked which of the five were my favorites? It’s a very difficult question; Uzbekistan had amazing architecture. Kazakhstan had amazing food and mountains. And Kyrgyzstan had spectacular scenery. My gratitude cup runneth over. Yes I am one lucky girl.

I hope you have enjoyed this 8 part series. I have enjoyed writing it. Thank you for your continued support, all your comments and questions. You are a great audience to My Fab Fifties Life adventures.

Thank you for reading Wild & Wonderful Kyrgyzstan. Please see last week’s post about Incredible Kazakhstan here. Stay tuned for more! Our next departure day is January 16th! I wish you all the happiest of New Years. I hope 2025 brings you good health and many travel adventures.

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Reading Wednesday

Book Review Tangles by Kay Smith-Blum

December 18, 2024

Laureen

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The Publicist for this book CK Publicity, reached out to me and asked me to read this novel and consider writing a book review. This is something I do on occasion. I did receive a free paperback, but was not compensated in any other way for this review. This is my honest opinion and book review Tangles by Kay Smith-Blum.

Hanford

I grew up in Western Washington State. I was in college before I started to learn and understand much about the Hanford Reservation in Eastern Washington State. This book is written by a Seattle author, and I am very impressed with the research she did. There are many hidden secrets I’m sure we might never know about the Hanford Project, but this book might open your eyes. Here is my book review Tangles by Kay Smith Blum.

Forty Years

For more than forty years the Hanford Reservation was active producing plutonium. It is a well known fact today that during that time significant amounts of radioactive material was released into the air, ground water and rivers. Most of the residents of the region were never told about these releases nor were thousands of people down wind. Classified documents were declassified in the 1990’s and the horrifying details emerged. This is the basis of Seattle author Kay Smith Blum’s first novel Tangles.

Fabulously Researched

I learned a lot reading this novel, which is part love story, part history and part mystery. It’s always fun to read a book based in my home state and I recognized many of the locations. I also loved how it was a little bit Oppenheimer and a little bit Karen Silkwood, and easily kept me intrigued.

Smith-Blum takes the reader through two separate era’s of the Hanford site. Starting in the 1940’s we meet a well-developed cast of characters, who live within the Hanford site known as The Area. The novel see-saws back and forth from the 1940’s and the 1960’s with the same characters and we watch as the effects of living and working at Hanford slowly wreck havoc on their lives.

This novel touches on sensitive subjects including domestic violence, infidelity, government cover up, environmental disaster and radiation sickness and cancer. It is truthful and engaging. I enjoyed it very much and hope to see more from Kay Smith-Blum in the future.

*****Five Stars for Tangles by Kay Smith Blum.

Thank you for reading my book review Tangles by Kay Smith Blum. See last week’s book review The Life Impossible by Matt Haig. We are always grateful when you pin, share and comment on our book reviews. Thank you.

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Tiny Tajikistan – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

December 13, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Tajikistan

Welcome to the sixth of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Tiny Tajikistan – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

Where is Tajikistan

Tajikistan, officially the Republic of Tajikistan, is a landlocked country in Central Asia. Dushanbe is the capital and most populous city with about 1.5 million people. Tajikistan is bordered by Afghanistan to the south, Uzbekistan to the west, Kyrgyzstan to the north, and China to the east. It is separated from Pakistan by Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor. It has a population of approximately 10.6 million people. (Wikipedia)

Like all the countries of this region, Tiny Tajikistan has an ancient history of being conquered and invaded, ruled by empires and dynasties and has seen the rise and fall of all religions. As all the countries I have written about in the past few weeks, Tajikistan also declared its independence in 1991 after the fall of the Soviet Union. A civil war was fought after independence, lasting from May 1992 to June 1997. Since the end of the war, newly established political stability and foreign aid have allowed the country’s economy to grow.

The Bad

We only had four days in beautiful Tajikistan, but it was enough to learn the country has been led since 1994 by Emomali Rahmon, who heads an authoritarian regime and whose human rights record has been criticized. Some strange things we encountered as a result of this was no photos could be taken of the Presidential Palace, and of course no criticism either. Before entering the capital city of Dushanbe we had to have the van washed – no dirty cars allowed in the capital city. That said, the people we met seem very proud of the country and the current state, although we were advised not to criticize the government.

The average monthly salary in Tajikistan is only $147 USD. Gas is about $2.60 a gallon. Most of our meals were covered during our short stay in Tajikistan, but the meals and other things we purchased were very inexpensive. Lunch for two with drinks, less than $10 USD.

The Good

Tiny Tajikistan is proud of it’s many historic heroes including Alexander the Great. He established a city in 329 BC in modern-day Tajikistan and fought a battle in the region, leaving behind a legacy that includes a city and a lake name Iskanderkul. We will visit this lake.

In the 13th century, the Mongol Empire swept through Central Asia, invaded the Khwarezmian Empire and sacked its cities, looting and massacring people. Turco-Mongol conqueror Tamerlane founded the Timurid Empire, becoming the first ruler of the Timurid dynasty in and around what later became Tajikistan and Central Asia.

Border Crossing

We were lucky to have a beautiful sunny day as we crossed from Uzbekistan to Tajikistan on foot. We said goodbye to our Uzbek driver at the border and exited Uzbekistan, then entered Tajikistan on foot with no issues. On the other side of the border we met our new driver.

Our first stop after crossing the border was the small city of Khujand, population of abut 190,000. The older Soviet style hotel had a nice view…which we enjoyed both day and night with a full moon waxing.

Khujand

Our first stop was lunch, where we learned some Tajikistan foods like, shurbo – a traditional soup with potatoes, carrots and beef as well as kabuli pulao – similar to plov but with chickpeas and raisins. Later in our visit we would learn more about the national cuisine.

After lunch we headed to the Khujand History Museum in the heart of Khujand and with our guide really learned some amazing things about the history and culture of Tajikistan. It was small but really well done museum. After a rest at our hotel, we headed out for a fun evening together.

Khujand History Museum had a fabulous mural with multiple panels explain the life of
Alexander the Great

We enjoyed both the old and a new Jami mosque in the center of the city, but my most favorite thing was visiting the amazing Khujand Market…very lively at night. This giant market operates seven days a week with both indoor and outdoor areas selling the most amazing fruits, vegetables, meats, household goods, crafts, and clothing. We were here at sunset and enjoyed a beautiful view. After a long day we picked up some fruit, cheese and bread and headed back to the hotel for a room picnic before bed.

Iskanderkul Lake

After breakfast the next day we said farewell to Khujand and headed into the mountains and over Shahriston Pass. On this day we would cross the highest elevation of our trip, around 11,000 feet (3400 meters). I always worry about altitude sickness, but it did not bother me this time.

The amazing Fann Mountains of Tajikistan were breathtaking…a real surprise. Snow-topped and dressed in fall gold, it was so much better than I imagined. We enjoyed a picnic lunch on the shore of Iskanderkul. The sky could not have been more blue. After lunch some of us hiked to a beautiful waterfall before continuing on our way to our night’s lodging.

Not far from Iskanderkul we arrived at the end of the road, and the itty-bitty village of Sary Tag. A mountain livestock village is also home to a Chinese managed gold mine. Today Sary Tag takes advantage of the new-found tourism industry. Our guesthouse was a lovely eight room spot, next to the home of our host and his family. Except the plumbing was, well, not exactly functional. I skipped a shower. But watching the sunset as I laid in bed and watched the color change over the mountain…then looking out the door as the moon rose on the other side was sublime. It was pretty chilly, but our host served us a delicious and hearty dinner before we called it a night.

Dushanbe

The name of Tajikistan’s capital city is Dushanbe…it means Monday. This name reflected both Dushanbe’s status as a town, with Kasabai meaning town, and the influence of trade, as the name Dushanbe, which means Monday in Persian, was due to the large bazaar in the village that operated on Mondays. This lovely city is such a contrast to the rest of Tajikistan, sparkling buildings, traffic, gardens, monuments and parks. A brand new Parliament Building and the residence of the President spoke to the importance of the city.

Qurutob is the National Dish of Tajikistan

Before heading to our hotel, we had a delicious lunch. Our guide Svetlana wanted to introduce us to Qurutob, the national dish of Tajikistan. Although some in our group did not care for it, Arne and I thought it was both delicious and unusual. It’s a kind of bread salad, made with dried salty sour milk, that is rehydrated and mixed with flat bread and fried onions, vegetables and spices. Sounds bizarre and it was certainly unique. But very tasty and very cheap.

After lunch we went to Hisor Fortress just outside of the city. This site is one of the best preserved sites in all of Tajikistan, built 2500 years ago. We learned this was one of the most important settlements in the region and was the capital for 100 years. Demolished and restored numerous times, the fort today is one of Tajikistan’s biggest tourist attractions. Serving as a caravan stop along the Silk Road, the Hisor Fortress today is in good condition, thanks to the foresight and restoration in the 1980’s.

Main Entrance, part original and part restored

Evening Fun

For our entertainment, Svetlana took those who were interested to an amazing restaurant that included nightly traditional dance. Very popular with the locals (and VERY LOUD), the local people pulled us out of our chairs to dance the night away between performances by the beautiful costumed dancers. Food was good too. I’m so glad I got to see this and really see how the locals party.

City Tour

Dushanbe Day Two dawned bright and warm, by far the warmest day we would see throughout this four week tour. It felt great to shed the sweaters and walk around the sunny city with a guide. Our guide explained much of the history of the city and the monuments and we visited the Museum of National Antiquities. We also enjoyed a delicious lunch at a famous historic restaurant. This indoor/outdoor restaurant, a favorite with locals, had been slated for demolition but the public rose up and saved it. Making it all the more special. In addition I met the nicest older gentleman who was so interested in me as an American, and about the United States. I wish I could have spent hours with him.

Local girls shooting a promotional video

Finishing this final day of a whirlwind tour of Tiny Tajikistan, we wandered the streets and took some time to look for souvenirs, before heading back to the hotel to prepare for the flight to Almaty Kazakhstan.

Giant Buddha at The Museum of Antiquities

Tiny Tajikistan

Tiny Tajikistan packs a big punch, with interesting history, lovely people, fabulous mountains and scenery and great food. We enjoyed our short but lovely visit. I think it is the kind of place where having a guide was very helpful…not so easy to get around on your own. Possible, but not so easy. Thanks for the hospitality Tajikistan. Next stop Kazakhstan.

Sary Tag Village such a contrast to Dushanbe

Please come back next week to read about our visit to Kazakhstan. And see last week’s post Unbelievable Uzbekistan. We love it when you share and comment on our travel posts. Thank you!

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Unbelievable Uzbekistan

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

December 6, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Uzbekistan, Central Asia

Welcome to the fifth of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Unbelievable Uzbekistan.

Where Am I

Uzbekistan is a landlocked Central Asia country that borders Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrghzstan and Afghanistan. It has a population of 37 million. We entered and departed by car during our visit.

To Tour or Not to Tour

Of the five Stan countries we visited with Intrepid Travel, Uzbekistan I think would be the easiest to visit without a tour. And many people do. Our guide was amazing though, and we found some hidden gems thanks to her. But if you are interested in visiting a Stan or two, starting with Uzbekistan is the way to go. Transportation is great, many people speak English, hiring guides for day trips or city tours is very easy in Unbelievable Uzbekistan.

The Good

Intrepid Travel

Despite the above statement, I am so glad we decided to do this four week trip with Intrepid Travel. It was more expensive than our usual form of travel but so worth it. In Turkmenistan (see last week’s post here) we were required to have a Turkmen guide. She was lovely and sweet but maybe a little new at her job. But once we crossed the border (on foot and a bit unsure of what was happening) we found a whole new world with our next guide Svetlana. Svetlana would spend the next three weeks with us, and our experience could no way have been as wonderful without her guidance. Arne and I were the first to step across the border and she knew who we were and greeted us with a smile, a beautiful comfy coach bus and PAVED ROADS! Hallelujah for that!

Actors portraying historical figures Khiva

During this tour we will spend the most time in the country of Uzbekistan – an entire week. We will visit three ancient cities and one modern city in Uzbekistan. We will be educated, inspired and awed.

Throughout this period we will travel in a coach, a couple of vans and by high speed train. Each high quality, safe and comfortable.

The Bad

I am hard pressed to find anything bad at all about Uzbekistan. But since the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, like all other countries in this region, Uzbekistan has had few Presidents. While non-governmental organizations have defined Uzbekistan as “an authoritarian state with limited civil rights”, significant reforms under Uzbekistan’s second president, Shavkat Mirziyoyev, have been made following the death of the first president, Islam Karimov. Owing to these reforms, relations with the neighboring countries of Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Afghanistan have drastically improved . In fact only recently have the borders between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan opened, creating much easier travel itinerary options for visitors.

As guests, we felt safe and welcome and everyone we met seemed happy and healthy. Average monthly salary in Uzbekistan is similar to other surrounding countries, about $400 USD. Meals were delicious and affordable, about $25 USD for two people. Gas prices were just under $4 USD per gallon.

The Beautiful

Everywhere we went in Unbelievable Uzbekistan was beautiful. The historic blue tiled buildings, the markets filled with handmade ceramics and carpets. The hotels we stayed, the people we met and the food. Wow. Let me take you city by city.

Fun Facts

Uzbekistan grows more than 160 kinds of melon and watermelon is on nearly every menu. Uzbekistan is a major producer and exporter of both watermelon and cotton.

Khiva

After crossing the border from Turkmenistan we arrived in the ancient walled city of Khiva. Our coach was too big to enter the historic walled city so we unloaded and walked at dusk through the ancient streets. It was so beautiful at dusk and we arrived at the lovely family owned hotel with a little bit of a Fawlty Towers feel. Most of the group headed out for dinner but we were exhausted both mentally and physically from our crazy Turkmenistan day, so we just took the night off and went to bed.

The next morning after a delicious breakfast we enjoyed a full day exploring Khiva with our guide.

A Lot of History

Khiva is said to be more than 2500 years old, with archaeological evidence showing it existed in the 6th century BCE. The entire old city is an open-air museum, and as our first stop it was hard to imagine the tour could get any better than this. Khiva was the first site to be named a UNESCO Heritage site in Uzbekistan. Khiva was on the caravan route and thrived in ancient times.

The next day we went wild in Khiva, visiting so many gorgeous and historic mosques, mausoleums, palace and madrassa. Khiva has 94 mosques and 63 madrassas and is considered an important center of Islam. We enjoyed traditional dance and learning some of the local crafts. After a full morning and lunch, we had free time. Arne and I returned to a few of our favorite spots and bought some souvenirs. We also decided to dine just the two of us in a traditional restaurant overlooking the colorful historic center. Despite comfortable daytime temps, as soon as the sun goes down it is cool in October. So we bundled in provided blankets and toasted our first stop in Unbelievable Uzbekistan.

You can walk on part of the ancient walls of Khiva

Arne trying on one of the local, popular sheep wool hats

Inside the ancient Juma Masjd Mosque with it’s wooden carved pillars

Dinner by moonlight overlooking the ancient city of Khiva

Bukhara

It was a long van ride from Khiva to Bukhara but the roads were good and I was listening to Audible on my headphones. We stopped for lunch briefly, arriving in the historic city of Bukhara late afternoon. We found ourselves in another lovely hotel with an inner courtyard just steps from the historic center.

A Little History

Bukhara functioned as one of the main centers of Persian civilization from its early days in the 6th century BCE. The city’s architectural and archaeological sites form one of the pillars of Central Asian history and art and are a UNESCO Heritage Site.

Located on the Silk Road, the city has long been a center of trade, scholarship, culture, and religion. During the Golden age of Islam, under the rule of Samanids, Bukhara became the intellectual center of the Islamic world.

Arrival

After settling into our hotel we headed right out with a local guide to see many of the sites of this amazing town. Everything from the Ssitorai Mohi Khosa, once a summer palace of Bukharan emirs to the Chor-Bakr Necropolis. Everything here is stunning and well restored or preserved.

Bukhara is home to a wonderful craft market where vendors sell the stunning Uzbekistan ceramics, hand made knives, rugs and scarves, and beautiful hand decorated copper and brass. I needed a bigger suitcase.

At the end of this day the entire group enjoyed a delicious local meal together as we really began to appreciate the delicious, fresh and flavorful foods of Uzbekistan including soups, stews, pickles, meat and dessert.

So Much More

Day two arrived with rain, but that did not stop us from traveling just a mile outside of the city to experience the Ark Fortress . We walked back through a park enjoying lovely scenery and to the Ismail Samani Mausoleum. We had time on our own in the afternoon and Arne and I had a wonderful lunch in a traditional restaurant to learn more about the local food.

Plov

Speaking of local food, on this night we walked through the back alleys of hidden Bukhara to the home of a wonderful lady who taught us how to make the national dish of Uzbekistan – Plov. What a treat as she showed us the ancient way of cooking this rice and meat pilaf over a fire heated cauldron, all the layers of Plov. And then of course we ate it all! Absolutely delicious. Here is the Tasty Tuesday YouTube Video I did about learning to make Plov.

Final Day

On our last day in Bukhara, we had half the day to ourselves before the group headed out to catch the high-speed train to our next city. Weather was still wet, but Arne and I went back to the beautiful market to pick up some more souvenirs, enjoyed a great lunch in another traditional restaurant, and despite the rain headed to the market where the locals shop. We love seeing markets with local produce, meat, fish and in this case local specialties like pickles and halvah – a popular confection made from flour and sesame. Then it was off to the train station and on to Samarakand.

Samarkand

Whoa. So Beautiful. We arrived Samarkand after dark, and the Gur-Amir Mausoleum next to our hotel took our breath away. We would visit this stunning piece of architecture the next day and learn all about the conqueror Timur also known as Tamerlane. Timur (Emir Timur) or Tamerbeg (9 April 1336 – 17 February 1405) was a Turco-Mongol conqueror in the 14th century who is regarded as one of history’s greatest military leaders and strategists. He founded the Timurid Empire in 1370.

Rainy Day

After a wonderful breakfast at our hotel we headed out with our hooded raincoats for a day of exploring beautiful Samarkand. It’s really hard to decide but this might have been the most beautiful city of the three so far – despite a very wet day.

We started this full Samarkand day at Registan, the central square of Samarkand. Researchers estimate that Samarkand was founded in the 8th–7th centuries BC. However, archaeological excavations have uncovered evidence of human activity dating back to the Upper Paleolithic era, 40,000 years ago.

From the Registan we proceeded to the huge Bibi Khanum mosque and the ancient bazaar, picking up a few more souvenirs. One of my favorite sites of the day was Shak-i-Zinda a sacred necropolis of blue tiled mausoleums. The tile, carved ancient pillars and all part of the Timurid dynasty. Breathtaking.

After another amazing lunch Arne and I decided to use our afternoon free time to walk to the ancient Samarkand Ulegbek’s Observatory, built in the 1420s by the Timurid astronomer Ulugh Beg. This school of astronomy was constructed under the Timurid Empire, and was the last of its kind from the Islamic Medieval period. Delicious dinner ended this great day.

Sunny Day

Our final day was sunny and we made the most of our time before heading to the high-speed train again. Svetlana took us to a hidden restaurant we could never have found on our own to experience Samsa, a tiny sandwich (like a slider) baked in giant outdoor ovens and filled with meats. Oh My Gosh. Absolutely delicious. Next we headed to Bumajnaya Paper factory that makes hand-made paper the ancient way. The small operation includes a wonderful interpretive center explaining the history and demonstrating the ancient art of paper making.

Learning that ancient way of paper making

Time to say farewell to beautiful Samarkand and jump back on the train to our final Unbelievable Uzbekistan destination of Tashkent.

Tashkent

It was a beautiful sunny day when we woke up in Tashkent, the capital city of Uzbekistan. We started off with a local guide to tour the city, which is more modern than those we visited before. It was fun to use the Tashkent Metro, a beautiful metro system with each station decorated with a different theme.

Next we headed to the giant Chorsa Bazaar, an astonishing place where you can buy just about anything! Most fascinating was the meat pavilion….an entire enormous building just selling meat! I was also intrigued watching the bakers make the local bread in open clay ovens. This bakery makes about a million and half loaves of bread a year…feeding Tashkent! So far I was loving this city of 3 million people.

At this point some people went back to the hotel but most of us piled into one tiny cab and headed to an amazing restaurant that makes plov in humongous cauldrons all day long. They like things big in Tashkent. The plov was good (not as good as what we had at the cooking class) but most fascinating was watching the process of this restaurant that serves thousands of people each day.

Arne and I decided to head out on our own for the rest of the afternoon. We visited the small but nice Tashkent Hand Craft Museum then went out to dinner at a lovely restaurant and enjoyed a modern twist on Uzbekistan food. Our final night in this wonderful country.

Another delicious meal. There is no bad food in Uzbekistan

Unbelievable Uzbekistan

We really enjoyed this country, the people, the history, the beauty and the food. It’s a great destination, easy to get around and definitely worth a visit. Get it on your radar. But now it was time for us to move on to Tajikistan. I’ll tell you about that next Friday. Meanwhile, thank you for reading my post Unbelievable Uzbekistan. See last week’s post Turkmenistan, Ashgabat and Beyond here. I hope you will come back next week for more of this wonderful journey.

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Asia & Oceania Travel

Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

November 29, 2024

Laureen

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20 Comments

Location: Turkmenistan

Welcome to the fourth of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion of my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about the unusual country of Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond.

Where The Heck is Turkmenistan?

Don’t fret if you have never heard of this country. It definitely is under the radar for most people. This map shows Turkmenistan, a landlocked country in Central Asia. With only 7 million people, it is the smallest of the Central Asian countries. Turkmenistan is one of the least visited countries in the world due to the difficulty in obtaining a visa, and its totalitarian regime.

The Good

Our visit to this somewhat strange and interesting country was the start of a month long tour with Intrepid Travel. On arrival in Turkmenistan we met the ten other seasoned travelers we would spend the next four weeks with. This is our second tour with Intrepid, which does unique small group tours. We loved our Bolivia tour and felt confident Intrepid would be perfect for us to visit the Five Stans. It surely was, and our group was wonderful too.

Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond is not an easy place to visit…or to understand. But being with a tour certainly helped smooth the way.

Independence Park and Memorial, Ashgabat

The Bad

The country is widely criticized for its poor human rights, including for its treatment of minorities, and its lack of press and religious freedoms. Since its independence from the Soviet Union was declared in 1991, Turkmenistan has been ruled by repressive totalitarian regimes: that of President for Life Saparmurat Niyazov until his death in 2006; Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, who became president in 2007 after winning a non-democratic election (he had been vice-president and then acting president previously); and his son Serdar, who won a subsequent 2022 presidential election described by international observers as neither free nor fair, and now shares power with his father. (Wikipedia)

The Turkmenistan government has been described as stricter than North Korea. Few Turkmen citizens leave their country. Some do go abroad to study, and others travel if they can afford it. But most do not.

But our visit to Turkmenistan did not include any information on the above. The Turkmen people, including our guide, are very proud of their country and respectful and cautious of criticizing. But as an outside observer, I have to tell you, Ashgabat felt like Disneyland. A movie set. A facade. Let me start from arrival.

Entering Turkmenistan

After an overnight flight from Istanbul we arrived Ashgabat at 2:00am to find a long and confusing entry process. To visit Turkmenistan you must have a “Letter of Invitation” which we obtained before arrival with assistance of Intrepid. On arrival we got in line to purchase our visa at a cost of $125 USD, paid in cash on arrival.

Soaring marble ceilings Ashgabat International Airport

What we didn’t expect though, was a requirement also to have a Covid test before being allowed to enter. At an additional cost of $50 USD – cash of course. All of this line waiting and cash exchanging took about an hour. Eventually we retrieved our luggage and found our tour guide waiting for us and four others who were on the same flight. As we waited, we had time to admire the marble airport, with soaring ceilings. Most of the people at the opulent airport were armed guards rather than visitors -our first sign that something strange is happening here.

Designed to look like a bird, Ashgabat International Airport

Hotel

Our lovely guide Ejesh explained to us in the van on the way from the airport that we had been moved to a different hotel than what we expected. Apparently the original hotel was now being taken over by the government to host some foreign dignitaries. Instead we ended up in a strange little hotel outside of the city. We had expected to be in the city, and had paid for a nice hotel. Disappointing and all very strange.

When we woke in the morning we had a full day until our group arrival meeting at 5:00pm. But now that we were so far out of town we couldn’t really wander. We didn’t feel confident enough to take a taxi into town, not knowing even where to go, so we napped and relaxed until our meeting.

Internet and Social Media

Despite my study and feeling prepared to enter Turkmenistan, I was astonished to learn social media is banned. No where in all my reading before leaving the USA did I see this. Internet was nearly impossible to come by and all social media platforms are banned. We could not get VPN to work.

Welcome to Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond

We were jet-lagged but very curious about this country. We were also anxious to meet our group who we would spend the next four weeks with. In a situation like this it takes a little time to feel each other out, but soon we all felt comfortable together.

Ashgabat

Our first evening after the meeting we headed out to a traditional Turkmenistan restaurant. The restaurant was inside a huge and sparkling marble mall. Like all the buildings in Ashgabat it was new and fancy in keeping with the Ashgabat image of rich and beautiful.

I’m not even sure how many stories there were in this place – Berkarar Kinoteatry Mall

It’s hard to say if Ashgabat is good or bad. There is some of both. It is certainly beautiful I’ll give it that, but it just did not feel ‘real”.

Day two we headed out for a very full day of sight seeing. We were shuttled from monument to monument on what seemed a very restricted tour. Dozens of monuments honoring the great men that are deemed important by the government. Everyone from historic Turkmen philosophers to Lenin to the current President and his family have monuments built to them. As you drive around this city you can not miss that there is not a pothole, or a dead bush or a piece of litter. Everywhere workers are touching up paint, sweeping and pruning. The white marble city is perfect in every way. And every car in the city is white. Only white cars are allowed. It was a bit freaky.

Things will be quite different a couple of days later when we leave the city. More on that below.

All That Glitters

The full day tour turned into a night tour after sunset with the glittering city aglow in sparkles. Every monument and every building fully lit – from our rooftop restaurant we could admire the colorful scene.

Throughout the city we also noted that there was a uniform way of dressing; men and boys in black suits. School age women in girls all wore the same long dress and head covering; young girls in pink, high school girls in green, university in red. We had the pleasure of meeting a group of high school kids on a field trip. They were all thrilled to meet us. Meeting visitors is rare.

Many recent restrictions have been imposed on women regarding the right to drive and beauty care. This article is astonishing to those of us who take those freedoms for granted.

All of that said, the people we did meet seemed happy.

Akhal-Teke

On the day we were scheduled to leave Ashgabat we had a half day more in the city. Due to the debacle with the hotel, we were given an added activity for the morning. We could visit the Turkmenistan History Museum or go to a stable to learn about the famous Akhal-Teke horses. Arne and I chose the horses and everyone else chose the museum.

The Akhal-Teke is a horse from Turkmen, in the southern region of the modern country of Turkmenistan. These horses have been renowned as cavalry mounts and racehorses for some 3,000 years. The Akhal-Teke has superb natural gaits, and is the outstanding sporting horse from this area. Queen Elizabeth was a fan and owned several.

We had a private guide take us to a gorgeous stable about 40 min outside of the city. Back home we would call this a ranch and it was hands down the cleanest most pristine ranch/stables I have ever been to. We had a personal tour by the lovely gentleman owner whose family has been raising Akhal-Teke horses for multiple generations. We did not regret choosing this option over the museum. In fact, when our time in Turkmenistan was done, this was my favorite thing we did.

The Bad & The Beautiful

That afternoon we loaded up our group into three separate jeeps to begin the long trek out of the city. We were warned the roads would be bad. Bad is an understatement. After the perfection of Ashgabat, the quality of the roads on this very long drive was downright appalling. For hours we bumped and swerved over huge potholes and unbelievably poor conditions. It really began to dawn on us that Ashgabat is the only place in this country that the government is investing in. Out here along these dusty horrific roads the people are living in simple villages, tending gardens, herding goats and subsisting.

Not far outside of the city things began to look very different

The average salary in Turkmenistan is between $200-$400 USD per month. The few meals we paid for in this country were in Ashgabat and we paid about $30USD including wine. These meals were at pretty fancy restaurants. Incredibly though, gas here is .40 cents a gallon. Turkmenistan is rich with oil and natural gas.

This was actually one of the good roads….trying to take a photo on most of the roads was impossible since we had to hang on

Darvaza Gas Crater

Often called The Door to Hell, Darvaza Gas Crater was our destination – finally arriving after dark. What is this crazy place?

The Darvaza gas crater is a burning natural gas field collapsed into a cavern near Darvaza, Turkmenistan. Hundreds of natural gas fires illuminate the floor and rim of the crater. The crater has been burning since the 1980s. How the crater formed is unknown, but engineers ignited the crater to prevent poisonous gases from spreading.

Located about 260 kilometres (160 mi) north of Ashgabat, it has a diameter of 60–70 metres (200–230 ft) and a depth of about 30 metres (98 ft). (Wikipedia)

Over the years there have been concerns about the health affects of the gas on the surrounding area. Nonetheless the Door to Hell has become a very popular tourist destination. Recently many Yurt villages have popped up to accommodate tour groups like ours. We stayed one night here and headed out early again in the morning for more bumpy roads.

Kunya-Urgench

The very long and bumpy ride brought us to Kunya-Urgench UNESCO Heritage site, one of the oldest sites in Turkmenistan. Also known as Old Urgench or Urganj, it is a city of about 30,000 inhabitants in north Turkmenistan. It is the site of the ancient town of Gurgānj, which contains the ruins of the capital of Khwarazm. Its inhabitants deserted the town in the early eighteenth century in order to develop a new settlement, and Kunya-Urgench has remained undisturbed ever since.

This site contains several ancient structures including a mausoleum. The ancient buildings are considered some of the first where intricate tile work was used. For thousands of years these buildings have survived, even including a rampage by the infamous Genghis Khan.

I really enjoyed this stop on our tour, although getting here was not fun. I’d be hard pressed to recommend it to most people, as it really was painful driving. If Turkmenistan wants to attract visitors, the roads outside of Ashgabat are a huge problem.

And guess what? After our tour we had to get back into the jeeps. Ugh.

Border Crossing

A quick lunch stop and then a bat-out-of-hell drive to get to the border with Uzbekistan before it closes at 6pm. Seriously? Wow. And we made it with 30 minutes to spare. It was all a bit frantic. I hope Ejesh our guide was shown gratitude by everyone in our group, despite the border chaos. She helped us through the first part of the exit from Turkmenistan and showed us where we get on a small bus to ride through what is known as “no mans land”, the buffer zone between Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. Then she was gone and our little group was on our way.

The bus takes us to the Uzbekistan entrance where we went through passport control and luggage screening and then on foot continued to the final entrance to Uzbekistan where our new guide Svetlana was waiting. She was a sight for sore eyes, as was the beautiful huge and comfortable coach and well paved roads. Uzbekistan was looking pretty good…and we were happy to arrive.

Final Thoughts

I am grateful I had the opportunity to experience Turkmenistan, but I don’t have any desire to return. Looking back on it now I really wonder what is going on behind the scenes. I felt like I was being watched. What was happening behind the walls of all those marble buildings? Are people really happy? Safe? Turkemenistan Ashgabat and Beyond.

It was a crazy start to what would be an amazing 28 day tour, and things got better and better in the weeks ahead. Please come back next Friday for a post about Uzbekistan…a gorgeous and interesting country I would certainly return to.

Thanks for reading my post Turkmenistan – Ashgabat and Beyond. We love it when you pin, share and comment on our blog posts. Be sure to check out last week’s post Baku Azerbaijan and continue to follow our odyssey in Central Asia – next Uzbekistan.

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Europe Travel

Tbilisi, Georgia

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

November 15, 2024

Laureen

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Location: Tbilisi Georgia

Welcome to the second of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Tbilisi Georgia.

The country of Georgia just blew my mind for it’s history, beauty, people, wine and food! I really enjoyed my week in Tbilisi. But there is political unrest too. So for today’s blog post let me start with the recent elections; Tbilisi Georgia, The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

Looking down on the city of Tbilisi after a gondola ride up the mountain. Peace bridge on the left and Performing Arts Center in the middle.

The Bad

On October 26th, a month after our visit, elections were held and the ruling party – referred to as the Dream Party – was re-elected to Parliament. Georgia has a Prime Minister/Parliamentary strong system. Immediately protests began and countries around the world questioned the legitimacy of the election. A partial recount was done and again the Dream Party was announced as the winner. Georgians took to the street in protest of what they believe was a manipulated vote with Russian interference. It’s too early to tell how this might unfold and affect tourism in this beautiful nation. For more details it is explained in the NPR Report. This entire process sounds eerily familiar to me as an American.

I will add that during our visit we had a wonderful guide on a food tour who was unusually vocal about the upcoming election. She feared that the Dream Party would do whatever it takes to win the election and keep the country pro-Russian. She and most Georgians supported moving the country forward with more Western leaning tendencies towards Europe. Georgia is waiting to be confirmed as a member of the European Union. This election result would likely remove them as a candidate.

On My Own

If you read last week’s post about our car accident while we were visiting Yerevan Armenian, you know that my husband suffered a concussion. Arne was having some pretty serious symptoms; fatigue, dizziness, trouble swallowing and numbness on his right side. We agreed that he needed a quiet week. So, luckily our Airbnb in Tbilisi was peaceful and comfortable and he spent nearly the entire week resting. Meanwhile I gallivanted around Tbilisi on my own. Tbilisi was easy for me to maneuver and the weather was great and I got to see the sites. Poor Arne.

The Good

Hopefully starting off with “the bad” didn’t turn you off too much, because my experience during the week in Tbilisi was really great. On my own I did three tours, and at the end of the week Arne joined me for one more. This is a remarkably beautiful, historic, inexpensive and DELICIOUS country. I loved it. So let’s talk about it.

Kebabs and other meat is very popular in Tbilisi

A Little History

Georgia is a country situated at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It boasts rich history that dates back to ancient times. The region has been inhabited since the Paleolithic era, and it became a significant cultural and political center in the early medieval period. The Kingdom of Georgia emerged in the 11th century. Reaching its zenith under King David IV and Queen Tamar known for its advancements in art, architecture, and literature. However, the kingdom faced invasions from the Mongols and later the Ottomans and Persians. This lead to a decline in its power and fragmentation into smaller principalities.

Stalin, who was born in Georgia, was married in this church

In the 19th century, Georgia was annexed by the Russian Empire, which brought significant changes to its political landscape. Following the collapse of the Russian Empire in 1917, Georgia declared independence, but this was short-lived as it was invaded by the Red Army in 1921. Georgia was incorporated into the Soviet Union. Georgia regained its independence in 1991 after the dissolution of the USSR. The post-Soviet period was marked by political instability and conflicts, including the wars in Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Today, Georgia is a sovereign nation striving for democratic development, economic growth, and closer ties with Europe and NATO, while preserving its unique cultural heritage.

Where Am I

We drove across the border from Armenia to Tbilisi with a hired car and driver. This is an easy way to cross the border with some sightseeing opportunities. We had to visit the countries of the Caucasus in this order. We could not go from Armenia to Azerbaijan because of closed borders between those two countries. Armenia and Georgia currently have good diplomatic relations.

Tbilisi Walking Tours

I did a walking tour and a food walking tour on my own during the week. I booked both these group tours with Viator and both were exceptional. The city of Tbilisi has some beautiful architecture, both old and new. The country of Georgia is an officially secular nation. Religion in Georgia reached a major turning point in 326 AD. The nation is largely recognized as the second country in the world (after Armenia) to have adopted Christianity. Today 85% of Georgians are Christian and 11% practice the Muslim faith. Once numbering as many as 100,000, today the Georgian Jewish population comprises only a few thousand people. Most of the Jewish population emigrated to Israel, United States and Belgium.

Typical Georgian Architecture in the old city

The historic Kashveti Church survived the Soviet era

So Delicious

Some of the best food I’ve ever eaten was right here in Tbilisi. I know right? Considering how many places I have traveled that is saying a lot. Every restaurant we ate in was amazing. Prices are incredible low (dinner for two with drinks less than $20 USD). Restaurant staff was always so welcoming. The food tour I took was so interesting. We were treated with some hidden gems including an underground bakery, a tiny secret tea room, and wine tasting.

Tea is the favored drink in Georgia as well as a social event

My favorite foods included amazing hummus; a local specialty called Khingali – a delicious dumpling; and best of all Khachapuri – the national dish of Georgia is a delicious filled pastry that Georgians eat everyday.

Kingali Dumplings – similar to soup dumplings

Both egglant and pomegranite are popular

Kachapuri – stuffed bread – has many versions. This one with goat cheese and egg was my favorite. I need to try and make this!

Check out the YouTube video below to see my Tasty Tuesday all about Georgia Cuisine

Surprising Georgian Wine

I had no idea that Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world. The fertile valleys and protective slopes of the South Caucasus were home to grapevine cultivation and neolithic wine production for at least 8000 years. Georgians are very proud of this fact and of their local wines. On each of the three tours I did on my own, we tasted wine – that’s how important it is to this region. I really enjoyed all the wine I tasted and plan to look for Georgian wines back in the USA. Who knew?

Enjoying wine tasting on the walking tour

Wine is abundant and incredibly inexpensive

The Beautiful

Tbilisi was indeed beautiful, but the surrounding region was breathtaking. I did one day trip out of the city by myself to the UNESCO World Heritage monastery of Mtskheta and the city of Gori. This destination is less than an hour outside of Tbilisi. There were only two people on this tour and our guide/driver was really great.

Christianity

Mtskheta is one of the oldest cities in Georgia as well as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is located at the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers. Currently a small provincial capital. For nearly a millennium Mtskheta was a large fortified city. It also served as a significant economic and political center of the Kingdom of Iberia.

It is the birthplace and one of the most vibrant centers of Christianity in Georgia. Mtskheta was declared the “Holy City” by the Georgian Orthodox Church in 2014. (Wikipedia)

View of the Kura River from the hilltop ancient monastery

Stunning Mountains

By the end of our week Arne was feeling up to doing an all-day private tour to Kazbegi & Gudauri. I am so glad he felt better. It would have been tragic to miss this region near the Georgian border with Russia. Truly astonishingly beautiful. It was a very long drive though, mostly due to difficult two lane roads. There is some major infrastructure work going on. Extensive improvements will help make this trip easier in the near future.

Gergeti Trinity Church – spectacular fall day and iconic view

We were blessed with outstanding weather on our late September visit. Incredibly only a week later the area was blanketed with snow. The mountain region is a well known ski area popular with both Russians and Georgians. Additionally this beautiful backdrop shows off one of Georgia’s most stunning churches, Gergeti Trinity Church. We were able to do a couple short hikes to visit a waterfall and breath the delicious mountain air.

Final Thoughts

I can’t end this post without mentioning the historic thermal baths in Tbilisi. These are a must-do when visiting this area. The history of Tbilisi’s sulfur baths dates back to the city’s founding in the 5th century. This is when King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered the natural hot springs while hunting. The city’s name, Tbilisi, is derived from the Georgian word “tbili,” meaning warm, a clear nod to these thermal waters. Visitors have several options for visiting the thermal baths, both public or private bathing. We did a private hour long bath visit on our final day and it was really fun and relaxing.

A Wonderful Surprise

Tbilisi was a wonderful surprise, and a place I would definitely come back to if given the chance. The food and wine were delicious and inexpensive. Tours and driver hire were also inexpensive. Gas is running about $3.00 USD per gallon. The average wage in Georgia is $925 per month with a wide disparity between city and rural areas. The fall scenery and weather we enjoyed was wonderful and the people we met were welcoming and interesting.

This mural celebrating female political heroes

That is not me…but the mountains are a great place to paraglide

Georgia has issues they need to work on. I remain hopeful for this country to move forward in a positive way. We wish them all the best and thank everyone who made our visit so wonderful. I will be watching their progress in the months ahead.

Such a beautiful country. Hopeful for the people of Georgia.

Thank you for reading my post Tbilisi Georgia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Please see last week’s post Yerevan Armenia. You may also be interested in reading one of my favorite historical novels about Georgia – Hard By a Great Forest by Leo Vardiashvili. I highly recommend it.

Meanwhile come back next week for a new post in our series, next up – Azerbaijan. We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts. Thank you.

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Asia & Oceania Travel -- Europe Travel

Yerevan, Armenia

The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

November 8, 2024

Laureen

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20 Comments

Welcome to the first of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Let’s begin with Yerevan Armenia.

Where Am I?

Yerevan, Armenia is not on everyone’s travel bucket list, but it was on mine after reading about it from another travel blogger several years ago. In fact we were scheduled for this trip when Covid shut the world down. So we were happy to finally get to the beautiful Caucasus region.

Armenia was the first of eight former Soviet states we would visit on this whirlwind trip. Over the past 8 plus years on the Grand Adventure, I have grown to really appreciate what it was like behind the Iron Curtain and why many people believe things were better for them during that time. Not all, but many people miss the security they enjoyed during the Soviet era.

A Little History

Armenia, one of the oldest countries in the world, boasts a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was home to the Urartian Kingdom in the 9th century BCE, which laid the foundation for Armenian culture and identity. The Kingdom of Armenia was officially established in 301 CE when it became the first nation to adopt Christianity as its state religion, a pivotal moment that significantly influenced its cultural and social development. Throughout the centuries, Armenia faced numerous invasions and occupations, including those by the Persians, Romans, Byzantines, and later the Seljuks and Ottomans, which shaped its political landscape and often led to the displacement of its people.

Yerevan is known for it’s delicious water and free drinking fountains around the city.

Many ancient and beautiful monasteries survived the Soviet era

Learning about the Armenian Genocide was eye-opening for me. In the early 20th century, Armenia experienced one of the most tragic events in its history: the Armenian Genocide. Perpetrated by the Ottoman Empire during World War I, an estimated 1.5 million Armenians were extinguished. Why have I never heard about this?

Be sure to check out the book review The Sandcastle Girls by Chris Bohjalian I posted last Wednesday. This novel is a must-read to learn more about the Armenian Genocide.

Following the war, Armenia briefly declared independence in 1918 but was soon incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920, where it remained until the dissolution of the USSR in 1991.

Few people are aware of the horrific genocide the Armenian people suffered at the hands of the Ottoman Empire in the early 20th Century. Armenia’s relation with Turkey remains strained.

How’s it Going?

Since gaining independence 1991, Armenia has sought to rebuild its national identity and address the historical injustices faced by its people. The country is navigating complex geopolitical challenges, particularly its relationship with neighboring Turkey and Azerbaijan. Armenia is part of the EU’s Eastern Partnership since 2009. Today, Armenia is recognized for its rich cultural heritage, including its ancient churches and monasteries, and its ongoing efforts to establish itself as a modern nation-state in the South Caucasus region. The world-wide Armenian diaspora (about 10 million) create awareness around the world about this little known and beautiful region of our planet.

As a visitor to Yerevan Armenia, we found most everything inexpensive from restaurants to tours and souvenirs. During our stay we ate delicious meals with drinks in Yerevan for less than $25 USD for two. Gas prices however, were about $5.30 gallon. The average monthly salary in Armenia is around $675 USD a month.

We even found a couple of craft breweries. Hubby happy.

The Good

Armenia is still working its way through issues from the past Soviet era, but the people we met seem happy with the direction of their country with some exceptions regarding education. In Yerevan (one of the oldest cities in the world) we had a great Airbnb with an engaged and friendly host. We did three tours; a history walking tour, a food walking tour and a cooking class and market tour. These were all private tours we booked through Viator, and we had excellent guides and experiences. All of our guides spoke great English and were enthusiastic about the future of their country.

Walking tour we learned so many things including about the more than 115 drinking fountains around the city

Jengyalov Hac is one of the best things I have ever eaten. Without our guide we would never have known about this herb stuffed sandwich.

The Bad

Similar to our visit last spring to Albania and Serbia, the traffic was awful. It’s clear that the pace of automobile acquisition in Yerevan, Armenia after independence has outmatched that of infrastructure development. Drivers are aggressive, blaring horns constantly and the din can be annoying. Most drivers seem untrained with little regard for rules of the road. Case in point – we ordered a taxi on a rainy day. The taxi arrived and it was an old car, no seat belts and past it’s prime. In hindsight we should never have gotten in this vehicle. But we did. The driver was driving way too fast, in the wrong lane and swerved to miss a car. We crashed into a concrete barrier. Unfortunately, because we were not wearing seat belts, my husband hit is head hard on the ceiling and suffered a concussion.

Accident does not look bad, but our injuries were due to the fact we were not wearing seat belts. Despite rules for such safety features, we had little recourse.

Because of the concussion and my husband needing to rest, we ended up missing our all day tour outside of the city to Khor Virap and the Tatev Monastery. Even though I did not visit these places, I still recommend them if you have the chance. These are the top sights outside of Yerevan. It was disappointing but necessary for us to not travel on the day after our taxi accident.

Khor Virap (Canva) with Mount Ararat in the distance

Genocide

The Genocide is one of the worst things that has happened to the Armenian people, and it is something few people in the world know about. The Armenian genocide was the systematic destruction of the Armenian people and identity in the Ottoman Empire during World War I. Spearheaded by the ruling Committee of Union and Progress (CUP), it was implemented primarily through the mass murder of around one million Armenians during death marches to the Syrian Desert and the forced Islamization of others, primarily women and children. Today in Yerevan, this horrific period is remembered with an excellent Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum that is a must visit for everyone visiting Armenia.

Today Armenia has no diplomatic relations with neighboring Azerbaijan. There are no open border crossings which presents a problem for visitors navigating the Caucasus region. This is due to the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict – an ethnic and territorial dispute between Armenia and Azerbaijan. This is an ongoing issue, very volatile, with no negotiations in sight.

The Beautiful

Yerevan, Armenia has many beautiful sites. We enjoyed our time inside the city. Our favorite places included the giant statue of Mother Armenia, the view of Mount Ararat (Armenians believe it to be where Noah’s Ark is), the Yerevan Cascade Climb, Matenadaran Manuscript Library, Republic Square and the amazing Genocide Memorial and Museum. We spent several hours exploring the National Gallery of Armenia and the GUM Market (has nothing to do with chewing gum) and we recommend both.

The beautiful and kind people stood out. They were interested in us and welcoming. Like many of the countries we visit, we did not meet any other Americans. Most of the visitors are from Europe.

Mount Ararat on a cloudy day. Most of the mountain currently lies in Turkey and is one of Armenia’s border conflicts with that nation

A shout out to the local Emergency Room too. Our wonderful Airbnb host personally escorted us to the emergency room on a Sunday, stayed with us the entire time and translated for us. We would have been lost without him. Our ER visit with CatScan and prescriptions was $128.

We were lucky to have our Airbnb host help us at the hospital

Armenians are proud of their unique language and alphabet. The Armenian alphabet, created in 405 AD by the linguist and theologian Mesrop Mashtots, is a unique script that reflects the rich cultural and historical heritage of the Armenian people.

An outdoor exhibit explains the unique and ancient Armenian alphabet

Food Glorious Food

Our food tour and cooking class both provided us an eye-opening education to the cuisine of Armenia. We had amazing Khorovats – like a shishkebab grilled meat; dolma, vine leaf wrapped meat; ghapama (my favorite), a spectacular stuffed pumpkin or squash; gata – a sweet bread; pickles of every persuasion; jengyalov hac – an incredible herb filled flat bread wrap; and the famous lavash flat bread served at every meal.

Here below is a link to our YouTube video about Armenian Food. Delicious.

Watch this video to learn more about the surprising cuisines of Armenia

Yerevan, Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful

Yerevan, Armenia was a perfect place to spend a week. Plenty of time to see many historical sites, museums and parks and to eat the great food. We really enjoyed the people, the architecture and the culture. We enjoyed learning about the Armenian Apostolic Church (97% of Armenians are Christian) founded 301 AD. Christianity is the official state religion.

This tiny country packs a powerful punch. Yerevan is small and easy to maneuver. It is an up and coming destination you should have on your radar. I highly recommend it. Yerevan Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.

We love it when you pin and share and comment about our posts. Be sure and come back next Friday for our post about Tbilisi Georgia.

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